Jewels of The Gambia

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1 Jewels of The Gambia Trip report Tour Brief - The Gambia has a wealth of bird life and has been an attraction for bird watchers for years. Our aim was to create a tour for wildlife photographers to get closer to some of the iconic species, in particular the beautiful Bee-eaters, Kingfishers and Rollers. - Days 1 to 4 The coast - Flying to The Gambia from a frozen and snowy Manchester airport was tonic it s self, with average temperatures in The Gambia this time of year of around 35 degrees, we at the very least we were going to have a two week break from the British winter. Our first days photography started at the nearby Bijilo Forest reserve and it wasn t long before we found one of our target species, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater. Although fairly close, the forest setting and position of the sun made good pictures difficult. However most in the group did get nice images of Yellow-crowned Gonolek, which showed well close to the track. On route to a different area of the forest we had plenty of opportunity to get close pictures of the resident Vervet and Red Colobus Monkeys, the former being very used to people and get up to all sorts of antics, making a fun distraction from the birdlife. On the edge of the forest we found our top bird of the morning, Whitethroated Bee-eater with two or three birds showing well in a clearing in great light, which allowed for some good images. We also saw Snowy-crowned Robin-chat, African Thrush, Pied Hornbill, Redbilled Firefinch, Wattle-eye and Klaas s Cuckoo. After lunch at a nearby restaurant, we made our way to the beach at Tanji where we spent the afternoon in the cooling sea breeze photographing the coastal birds. Various waders, Caspian and Lesser-crested Tern, Grey-headed and Slender-billed Gulls, proved approachable, also Pink-backed Pelicans showed well close to shore, as did the odd fishing Osprey in winter residence.

2 Day three we spent at Katong wetland, an area of open fresh water, surrounded by reed bed and scrub. Using portable hides and scrim, we positioned ourselves for shots of water birds and other birds coming in to drink or bathe. We were all rewarded for our patience with a variety of species showing well for pictures. From Ospreys diving for fish, and jostling for perches with Harrier Hawks, to close up views of various waders and rails, Purple Swamp Hen, African Jacana with chicks, Little and Black Crake were all photographed. Pied Kingfishers showed well on the new perches we provided. Our last day at the coast for now, was spent at Kotu Creek, a massively bird rich area of tidal river, mangrove and agricultural land. This is the best site to photograph Pied and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, also a good number of Little Beeeaters posed in numbers and all on the trip got great portraits of these amazing little birds. Reef and Grey Herons, Great White and Little Egrets showed well for full frame images. - Days 5 & 6 Heading inland to Tendaba - On our way for a two night stay at Tendaba Camp, we took time to stop at Farasutu Forest, one of the best places to find Violet Turaco among other forest birds. It was a rather unsuccessful visit with few opportunities, even the resident Giant Kingfisher was playing hard to get. African Paradise-flycatcher did show well but in to much shade. The morning did have one reward, a good group of White-throated Bee-eaters gave us the opportunity of improving our shots of a couple of days back. An early start the following morning for a boat trip from Tendaba Camp out into the Baobalong Wetlands. Using boats for photography provided a different opportunity to being on foot, with many birds not associating the boats with people, so we got close to variuos Heron species, Grey, Purple, Reef, Squacco, Goliath and Black-headed, and Cattle, Little, Great White and Intermediate Egret were all very close. African Darter, Wollynecked Stork and Hadada Ibis were all perched on the riverside trees. You did have to be pretty quick to get a shot at a very rare Finfoot, that showed all to briefly among the Mangrove roots. We spent the afternoon taking advantage of the birdlife around the camp, with our own Gigrin Style kite feeding station. Black Kites are relatively common and were making the most of the local fishermen s cast offs. Setting ourselves up on the jetty out of the sun, we provided the local Kites with fish bits in exchange for action shots of them picking the scraps from the water and jostling with each other in mid air.

3 - Days 7 to 10 Upriver Continuing our journey upriver towards Georgetown making stops at various sites on the way. Dalaba Wetlands proved a good site for photographing Namaqua Doves, which were present in big numbers, although Pygmy Sunbird and Pygmy Goose proved more of a challenge. After spending our first night in Georgetown we set out to Jahally Rice Fields, which gave us our best views so far of Abyssinian Roller. Though the highlight there had to be the hawking Collard Pratincoles, which proved a fun flight shot challenge at close range. From there to a nearby site to see Verreaux s Eagle Owl, with a pair roosting within camera range. After lunch a boat trip on a new stretch of river with new possibilities. African Fish Eagle feeding a youngster in a riverside tree was good to see, as were the many Broad-billed Rollers, that seemed to be every 100 yards along the one stretch of the river. We had numerous close sightings of Pied Kingfishers to add to our collection of shots and Blue-breasted Kingfisher also offered opportunities and good views of a family of curious Hippo s was a really welcome bonus, as was another Finfoot, but again it was illusive. Day nine started in positive fashion with a chance roadside view of Violet Turaco, which led to great views of Little Green bee-eater. We had plans for these birds later in the trip, but weren t going to turn down this opportunity. The remainder of the day we spent as planned at Bansang Quarry in the company of the resident Red-throated Bee-eaters. Using portable hides and scrim to reduce disturbance we all got some lovely images of these gorgeous birds. Two pools of water in the quarry also provided close opportunities to photograph drinking birds, including Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Namaqua Dove, Red-billed Quelea and Spur-winged Plover. The following morning we visited Wassu for more time with Redthroated Bee-eaters. Little Green were also present and the unusual Ant-eater Chat also showed well. The afternoon was spent on the river again from Georgetown, this time proving very fruitful for very close shots of the tiny Malachite Kingfisher. Abyssinian Roller, Striated Heron, Lizard Buzzard and a troop of Baboons also gave good opportunities for pictures.

4 - Days 11 & 12 Heading back to Tendaba Leaving Georgetown behind, we began our journey back to the coast with another two nights stop off at Tendaba Camp on the way. Throughout our road trips, we had kept an eye out for bush fires, knowing this would be our best chance of tracking down Carmine Bee-eaters, unfortunately non were close enough. So we tried an old haunt for these birds, again without luck. We did however catch up with a pair of huge Abyssinian Ground Hornbills, which were great to see and photograph. Arriving fairly early afternoon at Tendaba and having lunch, we headed for the site of Tendaba s old airfield which is now well overgrown, suiting the local birdlife a treat. We had four Abyssinian Rollers, three showing well, which gave opportunities of flight and perched shots. The final treat for the day, although in relatively low light was a Pearl-spotted Owlet. Our last full day at Tendaba and a last boat trip for the tour, topped up everyones pictures of a few old faithfuls, herons, waders, etc. We also had the chance of shots of Blue-cheeked and European Bee-eaters, as they hawked for insects from waterside branches. The afternoon we used to search for some more land based local species. Bruce s Fruit Pigeon, Bearded Barbet, Northern Crombac and African Paradise-flycatcher were among the highlights. - Days 13 to 15 Back to the coast From Tendaba Camp we headed directly for Abuko Nature Reserve, once the centre of birding for The Gambia, we found it a little neglected, but still rich with birdlife non the less. Giant Kingfisher and Green Turaco were the main attraction and members of the group got good shots of both between them. Very nice shots of both male and female Wattle-eye were taken, along with African Jacana and Squacco Heron. Non bird interest included Patas Monkey and Bush Buck. Just down the road then to Lamin Rice Fields, where Painted Snipe hid well as usual, but several waterside birds showed well, including Spur-winged Plover, Squacco Heron, Wood Sandpiper and African Jacana. We spent our final full day at Kotu, this time taking time to explore the adjacent Fajara Golf Course and Laundry pool area, so maximizing our chances of more great images from this site. A beautiful Black-shouldered Kite at close quarters was an opportunity we couldn t miss, neither were the Black-headed Plovers. Broad-billed Roller, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Black Egret, Hooded Vulture, Black-winged Stilt etc. all within good range.

5 Little Bee-eaters showed well again and close by Sacred Ibis and Grey-headed Kingfisher were close enough to get good images. Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters also put on a good show, with several birds hawking insects close to the bridge. Even the elusive Painted Snipe gave more than adequate opportunity to add the icing on the cake to great collection of images for the area. On our last day we at least had a late flight, so could get in a days photography, so we started at Brufut Woods. We relied on a little local knowledge to point us in the direction of roosting Long-tailed Nightjar, which was undisturbed even for pictures at close quarters. As we hoped we tracked down Swallow-tailed beeeater again, this time in much better light and in the open. Black Wood-hoopoe and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird showed well in the same area. An area of the woods is set up for birds to come to water, this proved to be a good site for very good shots of various birds. Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Black-necked Weaver, Splendid Sunbird, Black-winged Red-bishop and Laughing Dove among the visitors. Leaving the woods behind we took lunch at the coast and spent our last couple of hours back on Tanji Beech with more Waders and seabirds. - Tour Summary - Over the duration of the trip we encountered over 200 species of birds, many of which were photographed well by those present on the tour. It was a long way from being a trip about ticking off as many species as possible, it was about giving tour members time for the shot. Although we had an itinerary in place focused on getting images of particular species, time was built in enabling us to flex to chance encounters and spend extra time with species that either needed more time to get a better image, or just because it was a great bird and why not! As with all trips of it s kind there were ups and downs, thats what happens if you work with wildlife, the no show of Carmine Bee-eater probably was the low point for everyone. On the positive side we certainly had plenty of opportunity with several species that could have been illusive. Extra boat trips were built into the tour to make sure we didn t miss certain Kingfishers, but we had good views of most at the first time of asking, but you can always get a better shot can t you. We are always learning and thats the way we improve our performance, so the tour will be slightly adjusted for 2013, making the most of the parts that work really well and changing slightly those that didn t quite come off. I dare say the same will apply to the 2014 trip and so on. Everything considered, the overwhelming consensus was the trip met and exceeded expectation and some cracking images were taken away.