Contents Page. Copyright James Robert Holdings Pty. Ltd.

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1 Contents Page Contents Page. Page 1 Part 1 Colour Introduction.. Page 2 Italian Colour Training Colour Design.. Page 3,4 & 5 Hilift Blondes Page 7 & 8 Colour Palette. Page 10, 11 & 12 White & Grey Coverage.Page 14 Foiling Mixations Page 16 & 17 Semi Colour Mixations..Page 19 Colour Neutralization.Page 21 Part 2-Advanced Coloring Methods Page 22 Hilift Colour Mixations Page 23 & 24 Scalp Blonding & lightening (short hair). Page 26 Colour Correction... Page 28, 29 & 30 Remember your Color Wheel... Page 32 Unwanted Tone Suggested Neutralizers Page 34 Underlying Pigment Page 36 Reverse Colour or Re-coloring Hair Darker Page 38 & 39 Coloring Darker 4 th Choice Our Choice.. Page 41 Semi & Demi Mixations.. Page 43 Permanent Colour.. Page 45 Recipes & long Hair Colour Requirements. Page 47 Going Lighter Permanent Colour..Page 49 Powder Lightener on Scalp Blonding..Page 51 & 52 Pre-Pigmenting... Page 55 Eugeneperma Blush Chroma.. Page 56 1

2 PART I Color Introduction 2

3 Easy to use Made for our Australian climate Oil based technology - longer lasting gives maximum shine soothes and ensures optimum hair condition Hybrid Colour all methods of coloring - change peroxide strength Super conditioning & shine - feels like conditioning treatment Minimal stress to hair True to color chart 100% white coverage both natural & fashion no build up or demarcation lines Can be re-colored every 5 weeks No need to color balance (demi mix) No need to pre pigment to color correct just apply 3% peroxide reapply to porous hair Natural intense colour can be 1 shade darker than colour you have used Because of the oil based technology you must apply color to damp hair for full even penetration the oil saturates and locks in and lasts Powder lightener stays moist and active for 4 hours & lifts up to 8 levels Maximum for foiling only use 3 % or 6 % this is generally sufficient Ash is added to gold series and will give totally natural looking coverage on grey or White hair and achieve shine and condition You can perm on the same day - color then with 3% - saves time and money Developer 1.5% Level on Level or Darker Semi / Tone / Powder lightener 3% Level on Level or Darker (lift 1 level fine hair ) 6% Lift 2 Levels white coverage (lift 2 3 levels fine hair ) 9% Lift 3 Levels (lift 3 4 level fine hair) 12% Lift 4 5 Levels Demi / Tone / Powder lightener Permanent /Powder lightener (On scalp lightening yes!) Permanent/Hilift/Powder lightener (Off scalp lightening Only!) HiLiftSeries 11&12/Powder lightener (Off scalp lightening only!) 3

4 Scales always essential for accurate measuring Consistent color Correct color mixation Reduces color wastage Color on Hair Line Use conditioner around hairline pre application Immediately remove residue on skin with damp cotton wool after application Cleanse with cotton wool and perm solution if any color stains are evident (use circular even pressure movements) Protein Spray Evens porosity Ensures even color coverage Locks color in hair shaft Helps strengthen hair Color Neutral Booster Can lift (½ to 1 shade in blondes) Gives superior white coverage opens cuticle more and allows more color pigment to absorb and lock in Gives more vibrancy to fashion color 5-10 gm is sufficient No need to add more peroxide Important- if you add too much Color Neutral it will dilute your color eg: 15gms will dilute color 1 level Colors Intensifiers red yellow blue green violet 4

5 Color Toners silver/grey light grey silver/beige dark grey silver/violet Up to ¼ of a tube can be used eg: (30 gm color mix 7 gm concentrate color) this is used to create extra vibrancy Remember to look for the white natural base and underlying pigment This will affect the result of the hair color Blonde color 10/11/12 level leave minimum 45 minutes maximum 60 minutes lightens or use as a toner depending on peroxide level 100% white hair use 3% no less than 8 level natural + 5 gm color neutral Color Process Time Virgin 45 minutes Equal parts color product + peroxide Regrowth minutes Equal parts color product + peroxide Semi minutes I part col +1.5 parts of 1.5% peroxide Demi minutes 1 part col + 2 parts of 1.5% peroxide Permanent 30 minutes Equal parts color product + peroxide Fashion minutes Equal parts color product + peroxide Hilift minutes 1 part col+ 2 parts 9%-12% peroxide Resistant 45 minutes Equal parts color product + peroxide Do not use Color Neutral and Concentrate together Color Technique on Application- Cobweb Sections Time of application for re-growth should take no longer than 7 minutes The hair is divided down the middle of the head (center parting) and then split in half from ear to ear sections (creating 4 even sections) then starting at the forehead apply the color product to the surrounding hairline including the nape area then apply color starting in one of these ¼ back sections from the top of the head in ½ inch cobweb sectioning working your way downwards through all 4 sections. To finish application reapply the entire hairline section again making particular care that all fine hairs are covered in color product then clean of excess color product from skin around hairline and place clock on to process color. Hair is processing straight from first application time so immediately you have applied you will place a clock for the processing time 5

6 NOTES 6

7 Hilift Blondes Level Color Choice Peroxide Technique Level 2 3 Nil Not Recommended Level 3-4 Nil Not Recommended Pre lighten to Level 10 with powder lightener then tone Pre lighten to Level 10 with powder lightener Then tone Level 6 1 part 12 series 2 part 9% Process 60 minutes to give maximum lift Level part 11 series 2 part 9% Process minutes lift max Permanent Colour application procedure Virgin hair Fashion and blondes Retouch Hi Lift colour White Coverage Apply roots through to ends process 45 minutes Apply mid length to ends (2.5cm from scalp) then apply directly to root area develop minutes Apply re growth 20 minutes then apply ends minutes if you overlap you will get no demarcation line Apply mid lengths and ends (2.5cm from scalp) then apply to the roots apply to the ends develop minutes 50% natural + 50% fashion + 5 grams Color Neutral eg: 30gm color + 30gm 3% + 5 gm Color Neutral (3% only required 90% of the time 45 minutes total processing time) eg: 20gm gm gm 3% for 45min perfect coverage 9-10 level will not give 100% coverage of grey hair for resistant mix use ¾ 8 + ¼ 932 this will give 100% coverage 7

8 Colour Balance or Toning 15 minutes maximum observation required Low % white hair (40%) choose 1 level lighter e.g. if 6 level choose a 7 level for good color result no base required use 100% full fashion color Medium % white hair (40-60%) select same target base add 25% of base color + 75% Fashion for full coverage High % white hair (more than 70%) select 1 shade darker than required color add 50% base 50% fashion True color 40% white 30 gm fashion color + 30gm peroxide -30 minutes no color Neutral necessary 40-60% white 10 gm natural color + 20 gm fashion + 30 gm peroxide + 5 gm Color Neutral for 35 minutes % white 15gm natural + 15gm fashion + 30gm peroxide 5gm color Neutral for 40 minutes natural with fashion will cover 100% white hair Reflect Base Fashion Peroxide Color Neutral No Reflect 100% Non 3% 5 gram Slight Reflect 75% (20 gram) 25% (10gram) 3% 6% 5 gram Maximum Reflect 50% 50% 3% - 6% 5 gram Why do our fashion color give 100% white coverage - they have a higher % of natural base added to their fashion These have 40-60% base to 60-40% fashion Base 6 only use 3% otherwise it will lighten 1-2 levels Pre Lightening When you pre lighten for fashion color use only 1.5-3% peroxide if you lift too many levels the color will be vibrant but will wash out too quickly eg: (white) Only lift your color base 2-3 levels then choose fashion color tone use only 1 part color + 1 part 3% for 45 minutes. Tip If you want your color to last in pre lightened hair longer mix 1/3 natural base + 2/3 fashion use (1 shade lighter in natural base) and you will find fashion color strong in reflect but also the color retention shall be more longer lasting. 8

9 NOTES 9

10 Color Design Palette Natural Colour Intense.0 will give a natural result with maximum coverage 1 Black 2 Darkest brown 3 Dark brown 4 Brown 5 Light brown 6 Dark blonde 7 Blonde 8 Light blonde 9 Very Light blonde 10 Platinum blonde Soft Warm Naturals.03 will give a good coverage but richer result 6.03 Soft natural dark blonde 7.03 Soft natural blonde 8.03 Soft natural light blonde 9.03 Soft natural very light blonde Soft natural platinum blonde Medium Naturals.003 will give coverage but a warmer result Medium natural light brown Medium natural dark blonde Medium natural blonde Medium natural light blonde Medium natural very light blonde Cendre Ash Naturals.01 (blue/green) 1.10 Blue black 4.01 Ash natural brown 7.01 Ash natural 8.01 Light ash blonde natural blonde 5.01 Light ash natural brown 9.01 Very light ash natural blonde 6.01 Dark ash natural brown Beige.32 (gold/blue/green) 6.32 Dark beige blonde 7.32 Beige blonde 8.32 Light beige blonde 9.32 Very light beige blonde Golden Golden brown 5.3 Light golden brown 6.3 dark golden brown 7.3 Golden blonde 8.3 Light golden blonde 9.3 very light golden blonde 10

11 Copper Copper brown 5.4 Light copper brown 8.4 Light copper 9.4 Very light blonde copper blonde Mahogany Dark copper blonde 7.44 Intense copper blonde 7.4 Copper blonde 4.5 Mahogany brown 5.5 Light mahogany brown 7.5 Mahogany blonde 8.52 Light mahogany brilliant blonde 6.5 Dark mahogany brown 5.55 Intense mahogany brown Auburn Red Auburn violet brown Extra intense dark auburn blonde 5.56 Light mahogany auburn brown 7.46 Copper auburn blonde 5.6 Light auburn brown 7.62 Auburn violet blonde 6.6 Dark auburn blonde 7.66 Intense auburn blonde 6.66 Dark intensive auburn blonde Super intensive auburn blonde Violet Darkest brilliant 4.2 Brilliant brown 5.2 Light brilliant brown brown 6.2 Dark brilliant blonde 5.22 Light intense brilliant brown Tobacco Fashion Chocolate Tobacco brown 6.34 Dark golden copper blonde 5.77 Light chocolate brown 5.23 Light tobacco brown 7.34 Golden copper blonde 6.77 Dark chocolate blonde 6.23 Dark tobacco blonde 8.34 Light gold copper blonde 7.77 Chocolate blonde 7.23 Tobacco blonde 9.34 Very light golden copper blonde 11

12 Matt /2 6/2 Dark matt blonde 7/2 Matt blonde 8/2 Light matt blonde 9/2 very matt light blonde Super Lighteners Superlight platinum blonde 10.1 Superlight ash blonde Superlight beige blonde High Lift Platinum Blondes 11 / 12 Series 11.0 Super platinum blonde Super platinum beige blonde 12.0 Super platinum extra natural blonde Color Intensifiers Yellow Red Violet Blue Green Color Toners 1 S/B silver / blue 1 S/G silver/ grey 1 S/V silver / violet Light grey Dark grey Booster NB Neutral Booster or Clear 12

13 NOTES 13

14 White and Grey Coverage Normal rule 1 part base + 2 parts fashion needs to be added for coverage Mixation is always 30gm product 30gm peroxide If there is more than 40% grey (not white) and you are unsure because you have resistant hair use the safety net 6% With these colors you only need: 1 part natural color 2 parts fashion color to get 100% coverage eg: 10gm natural col 20gm fashion col 30gm peroxide 100% coverage ½ natural ½ fashion should only be used on very resistant white hair or color may be too flat 100% WHITE HAIR 3% ONLY 45 minutes % gives 100% coverage You need to use scales for accurate measurement this is extremely important For full tint coverage short hair or re-growth and blend (grey coverage or lighter). With these colors you require only 30 grams of color for a short color (Average Application SHORT HAIR) Whether it is: 30 gram color 30 gram peroxide = 60gram 15gm + 15gm color 30 gram peroxide = 60gram 10gm+10gm+10gm 30 gram peroxide = 60gram For extremely short hair (mens) fine hair 25 gm is sufficient On already colored hair re-growth is applied first for 15 minutes then mix 10 grams as a demi mix and work through mid length and ends immediately for a further 15 minutes to re-freshen the ends then seal with Acid Treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity in hair shaft. 14

15 NOTES 15

16 Foiling Mixations Foiling on pre lightened hair whether tinted lighter or blond we can foil on this hair without filling hair first: 10 gm color 10 gm peroxide (3%) This is the required mixation for 8-10 foils and is ample color for short hair For long lasting foils on pre-lightened hair without filling eg:- 10gm color + 10 gm developer = 20gm product ample for 8-10 foils Only use 3% as you need to stain and deposit if you use 6% you will dilute and lighten color For neutral but deeper foils try these recipes (choose level) 5gm 5 5gm 4.23 = 10gm color + 10 gm 3% = 20gm 5gm 6 5gm 4.23 = 10gm color + 10gm 3% = 20gm 5gm 7 5gm 4.23 = 10gm color + 10gm 3% = 20gm For slightly warmer foil results use these recipes:- 5 gm 5 5 gm 5 5gm 6 5gm 7 5gm 7.46 =10gm color 2gm gm =10gm 4.23 color 5gm 7.46 =10gm color 5gm 7.46 =10gm color +10gm 3% +10gm 3% +10gm 3% +10 gm 3% = 20gm = 20gm = 20gm = 20gm Also I part 6 or 5 to 2 parts 5.56 or 5.23 or 4.4 gives great reversal colors on light hair 16

17 Blonde highlighting with Foils Quantity of product for 8-10 foils 10 gram powder lightener 20 gram liquid peroxide (usual 3%) Quantity required for ½ head casual foils 20 gram powder lightener 40 gram liquid peroxide Proportions are always 1 part powder + 2 parts peroxide Majority of lightening requires only 3% as this will lighten between 3 4 levels Foil time develops approximately between minutes Usually when tinting and foiling foils are generally placed in the hair first then the re-growth and ends are applied and processing time begins Foils are positioned in a panel or brickwork mostly Bleaching lotion is active for up to 4 hours so can be covered with cling wrap and used on the next client do not pour away as this is unnecessary wastage and excess expense for your company. This lightening product is air oxidized and will keep processing BUT DO NOT LEAVE ON LONGER THAN ONE HOUR AS CHEMICAL DAMAGE WILL OCCUR!!!!!!!!!!! 17

18 NOTES 18

19 Semi Colour Mixations Semi Color (not generally used in salon as this does not last more than 4-6 washes) Can use on semi- sensitized hair Mixation 1 part color 1.5 parts 1.5% 4-6 washes only Demi color mixation Demi Color long lasting light developer color Mixation More Intense longer lasting 1 part color or 1part color 2 parts 1.5% 1part 3% lasts up to 24 washes 1part 1.5% DEMI MIX Short hair 20 gram color 40 gram 1.5% Long (shoulder length only) 40 gram color 80 gram 1.5% minutes minutes Apply with a damp sponge for speed and safety net procedure for young stylists Demi will last up to 24 washes Eg: Car sponge square slab works extremely well shampoo hair use damp sponge Apply Semi or Demi for speed. FINE HAIR grabs quickly and absorbs well NORMAL HAIR also easy to colour COARSE HAIR may be wiry and resistant texture is stronger saturate well for 100% coverage 19

20 Color Design Hybrid Color System A professional colorists dream using our hybrid system the latest innovation you can now achieve a brilliant semi, demi or permanent color from one tube just by changing your developer strength. This allows you to purchase only one tube of color reducing inventory levels Saving $$$$$$$$$$$ and time essential for building a profitable and successful Salon. Do not be afraid to use these products Colordesign works differently than Asian colour. 20

21 NOTES 21

22 Colour neutralization (toners) Toners require less color and only between 5 15 minutes visual processing Apply to damp hair with sponge preferred (pre-spray with protein if required) Short hair 10 gram color 10 gram 3% 5-15 minutes Medium hair 15 gram color 15gram 3% 5-15 minutes Long hair 20 gram color 20 gram 3% 5-15 minutes Medium quantity used 20 + grams product used Unwanted reflect you need to Neutralize Color 1 Color 2 Developer Ratio Timing Yellow 1SV 10g 10g 3% 1: min Orange /Yellow g 1SV 5g 10g 3% 1: min Orange g g 3% 1: min Red/Orange Red 9/2 5g g 10g 3% 1:1 5-15min 9/2 10g 1 (pea) green 10g 3% 1:1 5-15min 22

23 PART II Advanced Coloring Methods 23

24 Hi Lift Colour Mixations Hi lift Colour minutes processing 1 part Colour 2 parts developer 12% will generally reflect too much gold and will require more maintenance toning In 99% of cases use only 9% developer Use the scale double the developer, double the strength It actually doubles the lighting ability so if am using double 12% 3%+3%+3%+3%+3%+3%+3%+3% Same as blonding this can lift 7-8 level lifts or more Gold! Gold! Gold 9% will give 4-5 level lift 3%+ 3%+3%+3%+3%+3% Use this rule always as your guide for HILIFT COLOR 30 gm series 60gm 9% + up to 10gm NB This needs to be processed longer for total result remember a true lift is achieved on a level 7-9 on lower levels results will be warmer. To get ½ -1 shade extra lift try adding 10 gram NB (Neutral Booster). Also to achieve a more ashen effect add up to 1 pea of dark grey and 2-3 peas of light grey to give tone desired (more can be added for suitability) HI-LIFT FORMULA - Going lighter with special Hi-lift 11&12 series Level of lift Developer NB Neutral Booster Ratio Timing 4-5 level lift 9% 30vol Add up to 5gm to every minutes 20gm 7-8 level lift 12% 40vol Add up to 5gm to every minutes 20gm On level Use powder minutes lightener and toner not suitable for Hilift color 24

25 We advise 90% of all hi-lift will be carried out using 2 parts 9% 1 part color and the Special Blonde series as using double 12% will result in a lot more undesired Gold (double 9% will give a softer more neutral result) Apply Re-growth first at least 45 minutes processing if required emulsify color to clean up and tone ends for last 15 minutes only. Hi-lift will also remove old tint 1-2 levels or demarcation bands on THE hair shaft develop visually remove when ready HINT - Brilliant on Virgin Asian Hair Level 2 for a perfect caramel result use: Color Developer Intensifier Time 30gm gm NB 60gm 12% 2 pea blue minutes This formula on Asian hair (very resistant & glassy) will lift approximately 5 levels and give a 7 level result with a lovely overtone of caramel Now you can scatter a few foils to break up the color Acid rinse hair first for 5 minutes then mix 5 grams powder lightener + 10 grams 3% process approximately minutes for excellent defined result can lift to a 8-9 level and add nice shine and character to hair We Do Not color the hair without neutralizing with a color sealer after rinsing the product out ever!!! 25

26 NOTES 26

27 Scalp Blonding and lightning (short hair) Use (75 gm product) 25gm lightener powder 50 gm 3% or 6% (only) + 2 pump treatment treatment acts as a conductor and makes the application smoother and soothes clients scalps Process 30 minutes to the maximum of 60 minutes (remove color chemical immediately damage occurs after this time) This amount will do 1-1 ½ inch Regrowth and ends cleanse if required then apply your toner 10 gm color product 10 gm 3% 5-15 minutes visual development Blonding always needs toning after as the hair is in a raw state and throws gold this is a rich creamy formula-for easy application- gentle on the scalp on a level 7 fine hair 3% (doubled) blonding will lift to a level 10 most other lighting on normal to coarse hair will require 6% to be used (doubled) DO NOT PLACE BLEACH UNDER HEAT AT ANYTIME!!!!!!!!!!! THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE AND BREAKAGE AND OVER DRYING Please always use chemicals as directed and breakages will not happen think about it what happens to the hair shaft when you place it under heat the cuticle expands and swells under heat the peroxide and lightener will explode the cuticle & speed up the process causing irreparable damage. It will lighten the same result if processing up to one hour for full lifting results DO NOT PLACE UNDER HEAT YOU WILL BE SUED!!! 27

28 NOTES 28

29 COLOR CORRECTION Follow these results carefully for no trouble results Black hair will lighten level 4 2 levels 5 3 levels up to 5 level lift you will not get blonde first time 6 4 levels leave 2 weeks and treat hair before next service 7 5 levels You will have to explain to the client hair is a fiber a little like a silk shirt and if you spill red wine on to that silk shirt it is almost impossible to lift out because it stains the very fiber of the hair depending on the amount of years of staining the hair will let us know how many levels we will be able to lift it we will know when we start processing never use more than 3% or 6% developer for mixation this is all you need. You also need to let your client know this is not a normal colour procedure it will take a minimum of 4 ½ -5 ½ hours and the Salon charges extra for a colour correction On the darkest bands use mix: 30gm lightener powder 60gm 3% 2-3 pumps treatment This gives over 100grams product to start with you can mix more depending on length / thickness of hair. Apply to the darkest bands process till lightened to the mid length depth than massage lightener quickly through the mid lengths not root area remember the heat band is here and will process very quickly leave roots till nearer the end of the coloring procedure this first application will be on the hair One Hour Only then must be removed immediately as chemical damage occurs after this time. After this first application has been cleansed and sealed with acid treatment mix a fresh application (3% only) and reapply to the deepest orange /gold bands these 29

30 will be mid lengths to ends and this application can only be left on a second time for 25 minutes. Remember if coloring: Fine/medium hair use rule (15 minutes mid-lengths & ends 10 minutes roots) When dealing with: Coarse hair (10 minutes mid-lengths & ends 15 minutes roots) watch development time closely as we do not wish to lift heat band at roots excessively after development time of 25 minutes you must deep cleanse hair and acid rinse again to neutralize chemical acidity. To the client we let her know we can do only two lightening solutions on the one day (do not say bleach) and then color their hair and place a few foils in the hair to break up the color and give her a more natural result. Apply product first to: Level 2 band and lift to a level 4 Apply product on level 4 to lift to a Level 2 level 6 Level 4 Remove first application after 1 hour Level 6 Apply second application (3%) mid-length/ends Apply product to roots at end of process time Second application process 25 minutes total depending on hair textures whether one application or 2 applications is apply. Target color ( %) minutes Foils (6-8) mix: 5 gm powder lightener +10 gm 1.5% developer When removing the foils tone with 8.01 by massaging through for 5 minutes then apply Acid Second Application First Application needed Treatment for the final 5 minutes then rinses out and style as required by client. TIP - If a young stylist is applying colour for you or if the Re-growth is minimum use (safety net procedure to eliminate any problems occurring) fold tissues into four reduced long lengths and place between color sections at the root area to lift the hair and colour off the scalp so unnecessary blonding does not occur in your heat band area (roots) 30

31 Fold tissue in half Then in half again These will be used between sections Starting application at nape to ensure Root area remains natural so as to Minimize problems occurring Hair will sit up over the tissue protecting the root area After the second application lighting lotion is finished we are ready to colour and tone most times you are left with the result similar to 7.34 or 9.4 now all we need to do is neutralize the red /gold (copper) tone. 31

32 NOTES 32

33 Remember your Color Wheel! Violet neutralizes Yellow Green neutralizes Red Blue neutralizes Orange Cendre (blue) range is the most intense tonal value try % of the time (add if required up to 2 peas of intensifier blue) Even on 7 levels (this gives a nice caramel result) Mixation 40 grams grams 3% Apply thickly Place 6-8 foils in panel (center parting) using: 10 gm powder lightener 20 gm 1.5% Apply thickly Apply thickly full color from roots to ends 10 minute application time Foils generally will be removed after 15 minutes development time check visually (use towel fresh sponge and a bowl of warm water sponge of lightener place foils back in fresh foil with Acid treatment) Process color totally between minutes Rinse color out and apply Acid Rinse for last 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly until no scum is left in the running water at the basin Result should be a beautiful caramel result with clean soft lightened pieces of highlights. You can tone with % but your result will be darker because of the base so preferably use 8.01 and 2 peas of blue intensifiers if required remember it is neutralization we require not depth. Remember this rule when choosing your target color Fine hair texture Medium hair texture Coarse hair texture The quicker & darker it colors Average color result More resistant color/translucent Use 1 shade lighter Use target shade Use 1 shade darker 33

34 NOTES 34

35 UNWANTED TONE - SUGGESTED NEUTRALIZERS EXAMPLES ONLY USE PROFESSIONAL JUDGMENT Unwante d reflect Color 1 Color 2 Develop er Ratio Timing Gold 10 level Orange 7 level Red 5 level Green 5 level Blue 7 level Violet 9 level 10gm 1SV 20gm gm 6/2 20gm gm gm gm 10.0 Up to 2 pea blue Up to 1 pea green Up to 3 pea red Up to I pea red 2 pea yellow Up to 3 pea yellow 20gm 3% 1: minutes 20gm 3% 1: minutes 20gm 3% 1: minutes 20gm 3% 1: minutes 20gm 3% 1: minutes 20gm 3% 1: minutes COLOR CORRECTION IS EASY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hint During your last color application on hair after re-application of foil with treatment you can during the last 5 minutes processing remove this foil and massage foiled hair into the toner 8.01 to soften and neutralize any gold left in the hair. 35

36 NOTES 36

37 Underlying Pigment Importance of the Hair Coloring using Underlying Pigment knowledge for perfect results Color choice is imperative to the end result so a thorough understanding of the color levels and their underlying pigment is essential for the end result. Underlying Pigment Depth/Level Color Underlying Filler Pigment Level 1 Black Blue 4.62 Level 2 Darkest Brown Blue 4.62 Level 3 Dark Brown Red 4.62 Level 4 Brown Red 4.23/4.62 Level 5 Light Brown Orange/Red 5.4/5.6 Level 6 Dark Blonde Orange 6.4 Level 7 Blonde Gold/Orange 7.34 Level 8 light Blonde Gold 8.3 Level 9 Very Light Blonde Pale Gold 9.3 Level 10 Platinum Blonde Palest Gold

38 NOTES 38

39 Reverse Color or Re-Coloring Hair Darker Using This Chart Above and the Emilio Color Back Rule: This rule applies when choosing to reverse color a client from a lighter color to a darker color example we are a level 9 and wish to achieve a level 6 result-: (long lasting results) Final Result = Underlying Pigment In your clients hair + Artificial color 1 st Choice Coloring Darker (porous or chemically stressed for long lasting results) Choose fashion color 2/3 rd /3 rd natural 7 mix 1:1 Ratio with 3% apply thickly to the hair (7 level adds base to last but doesn t take over ) Process 20 minutes Rinse thoroughly but do not shampoo Towel dry thoroughly Choose target shade mix 1:1 Ratio with 3% only Apply and process for minute Shampoo out thoroughly Seal with Acid Treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity Advise your client not to shampoo her hair for 48 hours Style as desired (client to use professional products for home use) Coloring Darker 2nd Choice (slightly more porous hair) Level 9 to Level 6 Shampoo & towel dry hair thoroughly Choose filler for level 6 result Orange Mix 5 gm Red Intensifier + 5gm Yellow Intensifier Add 25 gm 3% + 50gm warm water = (75 gm + 10gm of product) Apply to hair (sponge on is easier than brush) Process 10 minutes to stain hair shaft Do not rinse out towel dry thoroughly (use at least 2 towels) 39

40 Choose target color mix 1:1 Ratio with 3% developer Process a further minutes Rinse thoroughly and shampoo out Seal with Acid treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity Advise client not to shampoo for 48 hours & use professional products for at home maintenance Style as desired Coloring Darker 3 rd Choice OUR CHOICE!!!!!! (normal hair/healthy condition) 9 level to 6 level NO FILLER REQUIRED Shampoo and prepare hair Choose color with underlying pigment add base for long lasting results Base Colour Fashion Colour Developer 1 portion natural base 2 portion fashion Equal portion developer 15gm 5 30gm gm 3% or 20 gm 6 20gm gm 3% If required you can add up to 5gm intensifier to color mix to intensify or rectify underlying pigment (see reference in -: Undelying Pigment Use your professional judgment to choose the correct formula for your clients hair Apply color thickly to hair Process minutes Rinse and shampoo thoroughly Seal with Acid treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity Advise client not to shampoo hair for 48 hours Using only a professional shampoo for use for home maintenance Style as desired 40

41 NOTES 41

42 (Going darker with permanent color) Shampoo and prepare hair Choose color using table below Apply roots to ends Coloring Darker 4 th Choice OUR CHOICE!!! Ratio Natural shade Target shade Developer 1:1 20gm 20gm 40gm 3% /10vol Intensifier Timing 5gm min Intensifier in case of Level 6 will be 2gm Red + 2gm Yellow This will make a strong orange additive Process minutes Rinse and shampoo Seal with Acid treatment to neutralize chemical acidity Advise client not to shampoo hair for 48 hour using a Salon professional shampoo and conditioner for home maintenance Style as desired 42

43 NOTES 43

44 Semi and Demi Mixations SEMI COLOR or Tone on Tone (Lasts 4-6 shampoos) Mixation short hair / long hair1:1.5 of 1.5% developer Color 1 Color 2 Developer Ratio Timing 20gm gm 1.5% 1: minutes 30gm 10gm 60gm 1.5% 1: minutes Shampoo & prepare hair Towel dry well Apply color (damp sponge is easier & quicker) Process 25 minutes Rinse and apply Acid treatment leave 5 minutes Rinse and style as desired DEMI COLOR or Light Developer Color (lasts up to 24 shampoos) Mixation short hair 1:2 made up of 1 parts color 2 parts peroxide Color 1 Color 2 Developer Ratio Timing 20gm gm 1.5% 1:2 25 minutes not much fading 20gm 10gm 60gm 1.5% 1:2 30 minutes for more intense results 20gm 20gm 80gm 1: minutes Shampoo & prepare hair Towel dry well Apply color (damp sponge is easier & quicker) Process 30 minutes Rinse and apply Acid treatment leave 5 minutes Rinse and style as desired 44

45 NOTES 45

46 Permanent Colour VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION going Darker Permanent Color Choose target shade suitable for desired result Mix Ratio 1:1 apply roots to ends Process 30 minutes Rinse and shampoo out Apply Acid treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity Advise client to not shampoo hair for 48 hours and to use salon professional products for home maintenance Style as desired RE-GROWTH APPLICATION (Retouch application) Shampoo and prepare hair Treat re-growth area as virgin hair Choose target shade and apply (7 minute Colour application is Industry Standard) Check mid lengths and ends for fading Choose suitable color to blend and mix Demi formula Apply to ends of hair (sponge on for speed and ease) Process 30 minutes or until hair is deemed ready by the professional Rinse and shampoo out Apply Acid treatment for 5 minutes to neutralize chemical acidity Advise client not to wash hair for 48 hours Using only salon professional shampoo for home maintenance Style as desired 46

47 NOTES 47

48 Recipes and long hair Colour requirements Use table below as a guide Permanent Re-growth and Blend Long Hair 45-50grams color sufficient for hair touching shoulders 30 gm roots 10-20gm ends even if thick Hair Area Target Developer Demi Timing Color Ends Roots 30gm 30gm 3% minutes If color has faded on ends 20gm If only slight fading on ends 20gm 40gm 1.5% 40gm 1.5% 10-20gm 10-20gm 20 minutes 15 minutes If the hair is healthy you can apply roots first and immediately place Demi color on the ends and process for the full 30 minutes rinse and seal with no demarcation or damage to the hair shaft Color Recipe Perfect Beige 15gm 9 15gm gm 3% or 6% developer Intense Strawberry Copper 15gm 15 gm gm 3% or 6% developer Lovely Caramel 15 gm 7 15gm gm 3% or 6% developer On Base Rich Sherry 6.6 Ratio 1:1 Rich Bronze ½ ½ 7.4 Ratio 1:1 Rich Toffee 6.34 Ratio 1:1 48

49 NOTES 49

50 Going Lighter Permanent Color Virgin Application Only Levels of lift Application method Timing 1-2 level Apply roots to ends minutes 3-4 level or Hi-lift virgin application only Apply 2.5cm from roots on mid lengths and ends Then apply to roots minutes Hi Lift minutes Use table below as a guide to normal lightening with permanent color Level of lift Developer NB Neutral Booster Ratio Timing 1-2 level lift 6% 20vol Add up to 5gm 1:1 30- to every 30gm 45minute 3-4 level lift 9% 30vol Add up to 5gm to every 30gm minute 4-5 level lift 12% 40vol Add up to 5gm to every 30gm minute More than 5 level lift Add up to 5gm To every 30gm 1.2 Use3%& powder lightener or hi-lift 12% doubled 45-60minute 50

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52 POWDER LIGHTENER ON SCALP BLONDING for Intense Pre-lightening Result needs Toner Mixation for on scalp blonding only use 3% or 6% NO HIGHER! Powder lightener 30grams developer Treatment Timing 60 gm 3% or 6% 3-4 pump minutes Add treatment to make a smooth creamy consistency that will soothe the clients scalp and make ease of application a dream use the guide below Virgin Hair on Scalp apply 2.5 cm from scalp first then apply mid-lengths to ends and process Level lift Developer Treatment Ratio Timing 1-4 level 3% 10vol 3-4 pump 1: minutes 5-8 level 6% 20vol 3-4 pump 1: minutes IMPORTANT Always check heat band well by scraping of product with end of plastic comb or setting pin and rub gently in towel to see how much gold still remains check visually do not let process longer than 60 minutes as chemical drying takes place after this time remove and always apply an Acid treatment for 5 minutes then a toner as the hair is in what we professionally call a RAW STATE (gold! gold! gold!) and requires a toner to neutralize unwanted warm tones. Refer to your underlying pigment chart example below: LONG HAIR COLOR TONER MIXATION Level Color Unwanted Tone Color Developer Ratio 8 level Orange /Gold 15gm gm 1:1 1 pea blue 3% 9 level Gold/Orange 10gm gm 1:1 5gm % 10 level Gold 10gm gm 1:1 5gm % For softer neutralization try 8/2 or 9/2 with 1SV Time these toners for 5-15 minutes check visually Rinse and seal with Acid treatment 5 minutes 52

53 POWDER LIGHTENER OFF SCALP BLONDING Level of lift developer Ratio Timing Visual 1-2 level 3% 10vol 1: minutes 3-4 level 6% 20vol 1: minutes 5-8 level 9% 30vol 1: minutes This coloring may take form in fashion slices or foil eg: peakaboo foil,baliage,flying color ect: NEVER PLACE BLONDING LOTION UNDER HEAT!!!!!!!!!!! This will surly swell the cuticle and cause un-repairable damage to the hair shaft even breakage you are not covered as this action is against the teaching of any reputable Company When lightening prior to coloring only use 3% and lighten only 2-3 shades as any more will cause color loss as durability has been lost and the hair strength has been weakened by over lightening the natural properties of the hair making toning or re-coloring extremely difficult Levels that are too light for the target shade will give instability of color result and less color retention also the color will be much weaker or in some cases more ashen as the level has been lifted past a level 10 result causing stressed and damaged hair shaft (removing any last remaining underlying pigment) It is always better to use a lesser Developer with your powder lightener and develop the full hour period to maintain the tensile strength and resilience of optimum hair condition 53

54 PRE-PIGMENTING Rarely required with Colordesign Select 1 shade darker than target shade Apply without developer to resistant root area not too thickly Mix immediately target shade ratio 1:1 with 3% only Apply over the top of pre-pigmented hair Process 45 minutes Rinse and seal with Acid treatment Advise client on Salon professional home maintenance Style as desired REMOVAL BATH (Colour too dark) Color cleanse Build up or semi / color too dark Normal to slightly porous 10gm powder lightener 10gm 3% 10g shampoo 5-15 minutes Porous hair Spray on protein for strength 10gm powder lightener 10gm conditioner 10gm 3% 54

55 Eugeneperma Blush Chroma- Creative pigment Fudge style Semi-permanent colour Vivid, dazzling hair colour that provides reflects to the hair Ready-to-use direct hair colour- no need to add oxidizer Colours or shades natural, dyed, permed, beached or streaked with differing affects Revives or intensifies a reflect immediately or between 2 colour applications Intermixable with any oxidative, tone on tone or direct hair colour Semi- Demi permanent colour (washes out gradually through washing) Uses: On Bleach hair (9-12) this product will give best results with a bright reflect On dyed hair it is best use as an intensifier to optimize and brighten colour design colours On Natural hair it provides more or less Blush Chroma translucent can be used to vary the colour shade to a desired level Application of colour: Measure and mix 10-20g of Brush Chroma with equal parts Developer on to freshly shampooed towel dried hair. If required you can add up to a pea size of translucent intensifier to create desired effect. Apply product first to regrowth just off scalp and work product through hair to the ends. Leave to process for up to 40 minutes under plastic film, product can be put under heat if checked constantly to reduce processing time by half. When processed shampoo to make an emulsion then follow with a second shampoo to ensure product removal, once all product is removed condition hair and tone if required. This product is a semi/demi permanent colour and as such will wash out gradually each time your client shampoo s their hair. Attention: Blush Chroma is a direct hair colour and as such is highly concentrated. It is very import that when working with product gloves are worn. Rubbing this product may cause stains on skin, wash basins colthes and pillows. Caution: This product may cause allergic reactions to you or your customers which in some rare cases may have serious consequences. Ensure that you always use this product in conjunction with the above instructions. 55

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