The Roulette Vibe. Full Playing Method

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1 The Roulette Vibe Full Playing Method Once you have discovered that some pins on some wheels are biased in their landing frequency it is then quite easy to understand how this will greatly reduce the randomness and give you a specific point to aim at. We have already shown how the ball usually bounces within the first half of the wheel, so it follows that to win at roulette you simply need to bet on the number zone that meets the ball at the predicted landing pin. Firstly, select the most viewable pin as the reference point (this may or may not be the dominant drop pin) then choose an aim based on the location of the reference pin to the dominant pin and also decide how late you wish to bet. You are now able to select the playing card that suits the chosen aim and the right ball type for the correct wheel direction. If we take the simplest example of all, in which the dominant pin is also the reference pin, then you would firstly choose between an aim of either 3 revolutions from landing or 4 revolutions - even 2 revolutions if they permit later bets. The later you select to bet the more accurate they will be. A 3 revolution aim is pretty much the perfect aim and although that may seem late it is, in fact, 6 seconds from the end, which is a lot in terms of total spin time. To start with and for this example we ll pick the 3 rev. aim. Simply rhythm count the wheel speed at the very start of the spin, this will take about 3 seconds to complete. Then, look up the betting o clock position on your playing card. Straight after, focus on the ball as it spins around the reference pin until finally it passes the reference pin with 3 revolutions to go. It is this moment or, in fact, a split second before this moment that you look at the o clock betting position that was provided by the playing card and you will find the best mathematical number to bet on. This position can be moved around by you to cope with changing conditions. When you get this right your chances of winning are huge, but when you get it wrong you are less likely to win than a random player, and that s very important. However, the margin is so huge when right that it allows for much human error anyway so getting it wrong is not a problem, up to a point.

2 Using your skill to judge the predicted distance that the ball will roll may sound scary at first but, in reality, that s because it is impossible to do this unless you have already viewed spins from which to make a comparison, and I doubt you have had this opportunity yet. Judging the ball is far easier than it sounds and there are several methods described in your manual. This is our method in summary but we need to go through the full process from the start. Please bear in mind that there is much information here but, like the brief summary above, everything has been simplified right down to just your judgement and a very simple-to-use playing card that looks pretty well like anyone else s card. The reality is that the whole method has always been designed to make something complicated actually very simple. The first step is to locate a wheel that has noticeable pin bias in either direction or both. Learn a method to collect pin landing data for both directions and each separate wheel, as described in The Games We Play section. Your method is to give the four vertical pins a number each with pin no. 1 being the first to the right of 12 o clock, as seen when standing from the end of the table. Number each wheel and make a double column, the left being for the anti-clockwise wheel data and the right for clockwise wheel data. Then head the columns with a dash (/) to signify the angle of that pin to the right of centre. This is important as you can then instantly recognise when a wheel has been twisted. Then simply list the pin numbers that the ball is hitting on landing and if there is a pattern it will very soon reveal itself. For example, if your right hand column reads 2,3,2,2,2,3,2,3,3,4,2, it tells you that, in the clockwise direction, the wheel is seriously biased, mainly landing on just two pins. Ideally, although very rare to find, the best are the one pin wheels and when you find these you must take full advantage. However, you can play two and three pin tables too, in fact, in many respects the two pin game can be better than a 1 pin game.

3 Here is another look at how your data card might look after viewing a number of spins in two directions on two wheels. The next stage is to select your reference pin around which to operate, this will be the easiest pin for you to view; usually at about 12 o clock to where you stand. It s very important to start viewing the wheel like a clock face; you will see more and more that the whole system works on this basis. Now you must consider the biased landing pins and make a plan to set your aim according to the type of game you wish to play. It may be the one pin, two pin or three pin game depending on the number of pins in play. Ideally you are looking to play the white Teflon ball as this decelerates faster and it is therefore easier to distinguish one revolution from another - it also has a more controlled bounce. Once you have established the aim you need to select the correct playing card that matches the ball type and the selected aim. You are now set up to play. To practise your rhythm counting you will now need the Roulette Vibe in your hand to start with, and be in front of the training video. Place the magnet around the base and find the main spot for switching it on and off. You may wish to apply a sticker to mark the hot spot. The magnet can be kept on a key chain or on a belt buckle and you should always have spares. The Vibe will now pulse continuously at a set rate. When we rhythm train we use three buzzes only or learn to count with amazing accuracy one-and-two-and-three.

4 Wheel Timing The main principle of our wheel timing process is to measure the distance the wheel rotates over a set time period. The selected period of time is signalled by vibration. If, for example, a wheel rotates by half a revolution over a 2 second period then it is moving at 1 rev. per 4 seconds. However, for several important reasons we must time over a period that s a little longer than this - but this example does exactly reflect the principle. So, as soon as the ball is thrown the first task is to assess the wheel speed and this is done by reading the number under your reference pin from the precise moment the vibe starts a buzz. Now keep an eye on that number and you will then get the second buzz - keep your eye on the moving number. Watch this number until the very first moment of the third buzz when you must very carefully see where that number travelled to on the wheel, and you do this by noting the nearest pin or line. So, to clarify that last part, at the start of the third buzz you must cast your eye from the moving number you have been watching since the first buzz to the static edge of the wheel and mark that place in your mind as it represents the wheel speed - the distance the wheel has travelled in a set time. It s a very important position as you are about to look it up on a circular clock-like roulette card, just like the cards provided by casinos to their customers but with your added text. System Symmetry

5 The above chart represents a roulette wheel without the numbers and focuses on the position of the vertical and horizontal pins and the 8 lines you nearly always find. On the first buzz you pick up the number underneath your reference pin at about 12 o clock and follow it for two further buzzes, and on that third and final buzz you see exactly what line or pin your number is closest to. If you fail to pick up a number at the start then you simply start again on the next buzz. So, if you pick up your number at A and it reaches B after two further buzzes you have timed the wheel and need to take careful sight of that B position as this is the place you are going to look up on your playing card. Some parts, such as the vertical pins, are more obvious than others but a little bit of practise makes perfect. The best players will make a considerable effort to do this with great accuracy. An accurate wheel speed is a great foundation. As you can see, you actually time the wheel between the first and third buzz, so you may ask why there aren t just two buzzes. In fact, the only reason for this is to avoid wasting time should you miss reading the number under the pin on your first attempt. In this event you will only wait a brief moment before the next buzz when you can start again. Other than that, the extra buzz in the middle of your wheel time process serves no other purpose.

6 Now look at your playing card at the B position and you will see a number between 1 and 12 (o clock) and these reflect the o clock positions where you can find your bet number at the appropriate moment. So, if you looked up this B position on your card you might see a number 10 which means you must soon look at 10 o clock to see the number you need to bet on. But let s not get ahead of ourselves; it s time to look in detail at the playing cards. There are many possible combinations of how one may set up to a wheel and it is vital to select the right card at all times. The reason for there being quite a few cards is that each card represents the ball type, ivory or Teflon; the direction of the wheel, anti- or clockwise; as well as the numerous choices of aim. So if you want to play an anti-clockwise wheel spin with a Teflon ball and with an aim of 3.25 revolutions then you select that specific card. Each card has an easily identifiable code in the top left corner. It could be something like A,Tef, 35 Tef. is for Teflon Ivor. is for Ivorine A is for anti-clock wheel C is for clockwise wheel 35 would mean an aim of 3.5 revolutions It s coded so that only you know what system is causing you to win, and believe me; people will look when they notice that you tend to win much more often than normal! All the cards are viewable in our Playing Cards section and you need to transfer these onto a standard casino wheel layout card simply by typexing (white paint deleting) the irrelevant information, such as words, logos etc., and then drawing in the position of the pins, lines and betting o clock. If you want

7 these to last longer you can then tape invisible tape over the card. It needs to be the invisible type as it has no shine and is less professional looking. In addition, you will need a small strip of white post-it paper to stick onto the card temporarily. The use of this paper strip will be explained later in this chapter. So, you have followed a number rotating around the wheel for three buzzes and you have noted exactly where that number reached after this period of time. You have then looked up on your card the number reached by the third buzz. You will now see a number between 1 and 12. These are o clock numbers and tell you precisely where you will need to look to find your bet number when the moment comes. The actions described in this paragraph need to be carried out with speed as this will then enable you to focus your attention on the ball sooner and this is the next and biggest part of the system. At this point all you need is to keep the o clock betting position in your mind and look back to your reference pin and try to judge when you think the ball is passing the ref. pin with a distance left to go that matches your aim. When you have an aim of, say, 3 revs. you are simply trying to judge the moment when the ball passes the ref. pin with 3 full revolutions still to go, and when you feel this moment has arrived you look at whatever number is in the o clock position that you have been keeping in your mind. So that means that, at the precise moment the ball passes your reference pin with 3 revolutions to go, you bet on whatever number is at, say, 3 o clock or wherever your card has directed you. When this is done correctly and the ball does travel the expected 3 revolutions your bet numbers will then meet and greet the ball on landing just as intended. This is not a guaranteed winner because, as we know, the ball s bounce will vary, but it will win much more often than normal because nearly

8 all of it will be within the first 18, or so, approaching numbers. You will also see later that we have a great method for adjusting your position to be nearer to or further back from the pin, which is ideal for when the bounce appears longer or shorter than usual and also helps with changing air conditions which may cause the ball to arrive later or earlier than normal. We stated on the website that roulette playing is all about being in the hitting zone where you are in the right place at the right time and, furthermore, you now know what this is and how to do it. Judging The Ball Your judgement on the ball action will be the most skilful part of your game. Once you have got your betting position from your card it is time to now look at the ball as it spins around your reference pin. For the purpose of training, let s look at a simple example where the reference pin is also the dominant landing pin. In this instance, you would almost certainly pick the 3 revolution card. This means that you are now looking at the moving ball and waiting for the moment when you believe it is passing the pin with exactly 3 revolutions to go. Literally a split second before the ball passes the pin you must look at your o clock betting position. If, for example, the betting position for this aim and this wheel speed is, say, 9 o clock, then as the ball passes the pin with three revs. to go you must look and bet on the number that is at 9 o clock at that precise moment. Don t worry this will become clearer when you try a bit of video training. This bet selecting method applies across the board for all cards. If you are playing to an aim of, say, 3.25 revolutions, then you would pick the moment that the ball passes your reference pin with 3.25 revs. still to go and you would select your bet at that same moment based on where your 3.25 card has instructed you to look.

9 Ball judgement will appear tricky to start with but after a few weeks of practise it becomes far easier, and you may also be asking how on earth can I tell how far a ball has to travel? When you first look at a moving roulette ball it will be confusing and almost impossible to call, but this is not because you can t do it but rather because it s not actually possible until you have a measure of the ball and how it looks and behaves at that time. You basically need to guess it to start with but once you have seen the action of a few spins you will then do it with ease. If you guess too early and the ball travels a rev. too far your brain will recognise this and you will tell yourself to go later, next spin, and the opposite is true if the ball travels one less revolution than expected, you would then bet earlier than you did the previous spin. After a short period you will find you get a subconscious recognition of the look of the revolution you are searching for and can then build up some really good rhythm. When you watch the video demonstration you will notice that the vast majority of spins are, indeed, read accurately in terms of distance left to go. You don t need to get it right every time, far from it, but you do need to always concentrate and teach yourself to improve your judgement as you go. Here are some useful tips: 1. Don t follow the ball round and round, try to focus on its speed as it passes through the section of the wheel where your reference pin is. After a few spins you will start storing the speed that matches your aim. 2. Look out for the ball that appears to be a little bit fast for your aim and decide then that you will bet when the ball next reaches your ref. pin. 3. Look at your bet position a split second before the ball reaches the reference pin as this will compensate for the slight delay in moving your eye from your ref. pin to your o clock betting position 4. When you misread the ball always bear in mind that it is much better that the ball lands earlier than your aim rather than travelling past your pin. This applies across the board but is particularly important when playing the 2 or 3 pin games where it is essential that, if the ball doesn t get to your pin, it lands before and not later. In other words, if you think the ball looks too fast, it s better to wait one more rev. rather than taking the risk that the ball may go too far. 5. You will have a small paper slip (post-it; semi-sticky paper) on your card and one of the two purposes for this is to write down a reminder on the state of your current aim. If, for instance, you were tending to pick a moment too early and the ball was running further than the aim you would write down L, which means `go later`, and if this problem persisted you would then write LL to remind you to wait an extra revolution before picking your bet moment. LLL will tell you that you are continuously making the same error and that you must bet better and later. On the other hand, sometimes you may pick the moment too late and the ball may travel a full revolution less than you want,

10 and you would then make a note E to remind you that you need to bet earlier, etc. This is important as the ball has many different states and you therefore need to keep a check on this at all times. 6. The 2.75, 3, and 3.25 cards are the ones you will nearly always use and this is good because it will help in the long run as you will get so used to the look of this revolution speed that it will become more and more recognisable. 7. Conditions that affect the ball action such as pressure and temperature can impact on the ball in a negative way when you shouldn t play or in a positive and repetitive way when you might play big. There is more information on issues that affect the ball in our section specifically about the many different playing conditions. 8. The Teflon ball decelerates at a faster rate than the ivory ball and so the time difference between one ball revolution and the next will be greater and therefore easier for the eye and brain to recognise. This is another very valid reason for preferring the Teflon ball. 9. Practise makes perfect and to begin with it may be a good idea to watch the video and try and read the same spin over and over and then you will see very quickly that you can get this right nearly every time. And when you start doing this well and with consistency you will appreciate the level of winning margin that you can achieve. 10. In your early days as a player we would recommend keeping your aim to about revolutions as the later you bet the easier it is to judge the remaining distance that the ball has to travel. Within weeks you should find that 4 and 5 revolutions out is also suitable. Moving Your Bet Position The playing cards are set up and designed to put your bet in the ideal position, allowing for about plus 5 to plus 7 bounce. The 26 playing cards will cover all circumstances of play, especially because each can be tweaked as you go. In reality, you will only need about 6 cards for any one place at any time, and only ever a maximum of two cards as you actually play. There are many reasons why you will want to tweak your position, by either wanting to be nearer or further from the pin on landing. Some of these reasons include major factors such as wheels with stronger deceleration, or a very slightly different weight of ball, but most of all you will want to move your position as a result of changing ball conditions which may cause the ball to arrive earlier than expected (drag) or later and taking more time to roll smoothly (over spin). It s a safe bet that the bounce will vary too. If you re in plus 7 position and the ball keeps bouncing plus 11 then you re not going to hang around. No, you re going to immediately want to follow it, as it is this type of repetitiveness that is caused by air conditions and so is precisely what you are looking for.

11 We locate all our betting positions working on the basis of a clock face, where your playing card effectively considers your aim and the wheel speed and then points you to look at, say, 7 o clock, for example, to find your bet number at the correct moment. So, to move your bet we continue with the clock face idea, and that brings us on to the second reason that you have a post-it paper on your card: as an addition to writing down your Es and Ls for ball judgment reminders, you can also write down a reminder of your betting position move. A clock face has 12 hour points and a roulette wheel has 37 or 38 numbers so we can say that any move of plus or minus 1 hour to our position is the same as moving 3 numbers. The plus or minus will depend on the direction of the wheel and whether or not you wish to move nearer to or further from the pin, this comes very easily after a while. If the wheel is anti-clockwise then to move closer or nearer to the pin you must minus your betting position from your card by I hour for every three numbers you wish to move, and when you get good you can deal in little half hour position moves. If you want to be further back because the ball is bouncing perhaps an extra 6 numbers, you simply add 2 hours to the betting position from your card. The important thing is to have plus 2 written on your post-it to remind you before the spin that you are currently playing a plus 2 hours position and must make that addition. When it next changes you simply cross out the plus 2 and put the new position. When the wheel is clockwise you simply minus hours to move further back and plus hours to move closer. You make many adjustments as you go and will write many little notes and this is why we keep that information separate from your main card to save you the time of always having to write out new cards. There are several ways of displaying your card and you will need to try and find the method that enables you to look up information in the fastest and most reliable way. Making Bets It takes a split second to cast your eye from the ball and look up your bet number so we always suggest looking it up a split second before the ball passes the reference pin so that you get to look up your bet as the ball actually passes the ref. pin. You will sometimes have the option of neighbour betting, that is betting on a 5 number zone. This is a very convenient way of playing but does tend to encourage what we call flat betting, where your bet level largely stays at a constant - with a neighbour bet there is usually a $25 minimum and if you do want to increase you would have to jump up to $50. It is basically all down to your own style but because patterns happen at particular moments it is very important to, firstly, be in there to see it, and so just play little 1$ bets as you go, and, secondly, to be able to press very big when conditions are good. Many people love playing the layout and by that I mean picking your number and betting between 2 and 3 numbers around it. You don t need to push for more than this, as you will get called out too often. However, when you play the layout it is likely that you will only get on the lower numbers, as you will

12 have other players in your way and you will again be antagonising the dealer. Just betting on the lower numbers is absolutely no problem at all although this is probably one of the hardest messages to get across. If you see number 28 as your bet and you can only reach 7 and 12 you would doubtless get very frustrated when 28 comes up, but I say there is no need to worry as it doesn t change anything in the long term. I ll try and explain. Before the spin you decide how many total chips you are prepared to play given the current conditions. Let s say you chose to bet 6 chips. Now, technically, you could bet 2 chips on 7, 28 and 12 or you could put 3 chips on just 7 and 12, either way it may effect any one night in a positive or negative way. However, in the long run, your bet is totally 100% unaffected so there is no reason to try scrambling to cover the high numbers nor worrying when one of them comes up; after all, it s part of your game strategy, which also enables you to get such things as maximum accuracy from picking numbers quite late and these are the important issues that improve your margin. Whilst on the subject of frustration, it s worth pointing out that frustration leads to very poor decision making when playing roulette. To be more precise, if you have lost $100 and conditions are not good you should stop playing, but that becomes harder the more frustrated you feel. You may have just been very unlucky during a good period and then it changed to bad and that is the worst time to be chasing your loss, so patience and logic is the key. If you get to play the layout well it can become quite a skill. Here are some of my favourite combinations and you will notice they go up to about number 25. 1,14,20 8,10,23, 4,15,19 2,4,21, 0/3, 12/15 7,12, 9,18,22, 6,11,13 2,6,17.

13 Counting Method At this stage you will be fully aware that we time the roulette wheel speed by assessing how far it moves over a set period of time. As a former player I would count this period of time in my head and test myself at home on a regular basis using a stopwatch. This method of playing is highly successful and you may be surprised at how easy it is. In later years it occurred to me that my timing practise was not as effective as it might be even though I can t deny the accuracy of a stopwatch to test myself. No, what I was lacking was rhythm, or, more to the point, continuous rhythm. Using a stopwatch to test myself only allowed me to measure my judgement rather than train it. I needed to get a far better feel of how long this period of time actually lasted and to do this I made the first Vibe. This dramatically changed things in that the continuous pulse gave me the precise measure of my count. One and two and three was the count but what was so good was being able to continue counting in time and, of course, that was the best way for it to sink in and to update myself regularly. If you choose to practise counting, it is important to count in threes, for example one and two and three and one and two and three and one etc, and not, one and two and three and four and five etc. Once you have a really good sense of this rhythm counting you will add a great option to your real roulette playing potential. Copyright 2007 Jafco. All rights reserved

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