healing color TECHNICAL GUIDE Color Attachment Technology Keratin Healing System Flower Shield Complex

Transcription

1 healing color TECHNICAL GUIDE Color Attachment Technology Keratin Healing System Flower Shield Complex

2 INTRODUCTION TO HEALING COLOR 3 HAIR STRUCTURE AND HAIRCOLOR 15 HEALING COLOR FORMULATION 21 FORMULATION FOR GRAY HAIR 35 FORMULATION FOR RADIANT REDS 43 FORMULATION FOR BLONDING 49 PREPARING HAIR FOR COLOR SERVICES 61 MIXING, APPLICATION AND PROCESSING 67 CORRECTIVE COLOR 73 GLOSSARY 81

3 table of CONTENTS Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

4 Color Attachment Technology Keratin Healing System Flower Shield Complex 3-in-1 Flexibility L ANZA Healing Color Guidelines at a Glance Shades and Families Color Wheel Shade Chart

5 introduction to HEALING COLOR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

6 Color Attachment Technology KERATIN HEALING SYSTEM Protein, moisture and minerals are vital to hair health. L ANZA s Keratin Healing System heals the hair by replacing all of these essential nutrients. The result is healthy hair with improved color attachment and even color results. Your color will be rich, vibrant and long-lasting! Keratin Healing System consists of: - Keratin Amino Acids - Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex - Moisture Retain Complex Healing Actives have a double positive charge. Damage in the hair has a negative charge. Healing Actives are attracted directly to the damage sites, restoring hair health exactly where it s needed. FLOWER SHIELD COMPLEX Haircolor fades as it is exposed to environmental aggressors. L ANZA s Flower Shield Complex uses natural anti-fade compounds from flowers to provide full-spectrum color protection. White represents the combination of all colors. The phyto-compounds found in Gardenia ensure complete protection over the entire color spectrum. CHLOROPHYLL, found in the Green Orchid, protects haircolor in the green range. CAROTENOIDS, found in Rose, Calendula & Hibiscus, protect haircolor in the yellow to red range. FLAVONOIDS, found in Cornflower & Echinacea, protect haircolor in the blue to violet range. 4 5

7 3-in-1 Flexibility L ANZA Healing Color offers a wide array of fabulous shades with five dedicated developers, offering unlimited flexibility and full-spectrum color protection for all Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent formulas. Reliable, consistent results are created time after time. Hair is luxuriously shiny and true-to-level and tone, from new growth to the ends! Great Performance and Savings - All in One Tube of Color! PERMANENT Lighten Darken Cover Gray DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone Gloss Enhance 1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer = PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT

8 L ANZA Healing Color Healing Color 77 shades provide unlimited formulation creativity 62 classic shades 5 High Lift Blondes 4 Super Lift Blondes 6 Mix Tones Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. Ultra Natural Series provides unparalleled coverage for resistant gray hair in one step. Color Concepts are fashion shades easily created using core shade formulations. Cream Developers Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. 5 dedicated developers for all color services. Demi Cream Developer (1.75%) 10 Volume Cream Developer (3%) 20 Volume Cream Developer (6%) 30 Volume Cream Developer (9%) 40 Volume Cream Developer (12%) Translucent Color Catalyst Makes 99.9% of the ammonia in Healing Color non-effective. Not a developer. Must be used in conjunction with Demi Cream Developer. Demi Translucent Color is created by mixing 1 part Healing Color with 1 part Translucent Color Catalyst and 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. Demi Translucent Color can be used to tone, gloss or enhance. Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. Powder Decolorizer Powder Decolorizer is dust-free and easy to mix for smooth consistency and application. Will achieve up to 7 levels of lift. A hint of violet controls warmth at any stage of lift. Contains Keratin Healing System to ensure hair integrity during and after process. Can be formulated for both on-scalp and off-scalp applications. Mix 1 part Powder Decolorizer and 2 parts Cream Developer. Color-Cleansing Shampoo Color-correction tool for performing a color cleanse to remove excess or undesired pigments from previouslycolored hair. Specifically designed to be used with L ANZA Powder Decolorizer and Cream Developers to remove artificial pigments. Can be formulated in three strengths (mild, medium or strong), depending on the amount of color to be removed. Protective Barrier Cream Provides exceptional skin and scalp protection against unwanted stains or irritation during color services. Easy to apply and stays in place won t melt! Easy to wash off. Can also be used with Healing Texture Exothermic Perm. Haircolor Stain Remover Effortlessly dissolves and removes haircolor stains from skin, clothing, salon surface and tools. Gentle on skin, won t cause irritation. Pleasing signature fragrance. 6 7

9 The first and only color that HEALS SEALS PROTECTS Through our exclusive Color Attachment Technology

10 Guidelines at a Glance 3-in-1 Flexibility Steps to Successful Color Formulation PERMANENT Lighten Darken Cover Gray DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone Gloss Enhance 1:1 1: 2 1: 1: 2: 1 TC Select your Target Color (TC). What color are you trying to achieve? Be sure to assess the client s hair and features first to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 10 Volume Tone-on-tone 20 Volume 1-2 Levels of lift 30 Volume 2-3 Levels of lift 40 Volume 3-4 Levels of lift 30 min 35 min 40 min 50 min 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Deposit Only Fill 20 min 10 min 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Deposit Only Gloss Tone 20 min NOTE: Be sure to mix Healing Color and Translucent Color Catalyst first, then add Demi Cream Developer min 2 3 UT NL / EL Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control, or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Level Finder in the back of the L ANZA Swatch Book. Natural Level (NL) the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. Existing Level (EL) the level of previously-colored hair. Please note that hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. Blonding HIGH LIFT BLONDES Blonding Highlighting SUPER LIFT BLONDES Maximum Lift and Control POWDER DECOLORIZER Blonding Highlighting 4 L / T Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone Level (L) Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? 1: 2 1: 2 1: 2 Tone (T) Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of 1 Part Healing Color (100 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume Up to 4 Levels of lift 50 min 1 Part Healing Color (200 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume Up to 5 Levels of lift 60 min 1 Part Powder Decolorizer 2 Parts Cream Developer (Demi, 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) Demi 10 Volume 20 Volume ON - SCALP up to 60 min 5 % GRAY the hair to achieve the Target Color. Choose the appropriate Developer. Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. Demi 10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume OFF - SCALP up to 60 min 6 F Formulate. When formulating to achieve your Target Color, select the appropriate shade to enhance or control the Undertone and change the Tone, the appropriate developer for the change in Level, then add the missing pigments for Gray coverage. Process for the full recommended time. 8 9

11 Level & Undertone Mix Tone Additions* Enhancement of Tone Refinement of Warmth LEVEL DESCRIPTION UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE LEVEL BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX X MIX LEVEL Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet Gold 10 up to 3 g 10 up to 1 g 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 9 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 9 up to 1 g 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 8 up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 3 g 8 up to 1 g up to 1 g 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 7 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 7 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 6 up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 6 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 5 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 5 up to 1 g up to 3 g 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 4 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 4 up to 1 g up to 3 g 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 3 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 3 up to 3 g 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 2 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 2 up to 3 g 1 Black NONE NONE NONE 1 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 1 *Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 28 g Healing Color. Account for Gray Coverage When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. The Ultra Natural Series (NN). The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 25% 0-25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 50% 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color.

12 SHADES and FAMILIES FAMILY NATURAL ULTRA NATURAL ASH EXTRA ASH BEIGE BEIGE-COPPER GOLD GOLD-COPPER COPPER-GOLD NATURAL COPPER COPPER ULTRA COPPER ULTRA RED-COPPER RED ULTRA RED RED-VIOLET VIOLET PEARL MIX TONE BLUE MIX LETTER BASE RECOMMENDED USE Balanced N 100% Balanced Balanced NN 100% Balanced Perfectly balanced to reflect naturally occurring tonal values for on-tone and on-level results. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance. Formulated with increased pigment concentrations. Perfectly balanced for true-to-tone and on-level natural color results. Especially designed for resistant gray coverage in one step. A AX Blue 60% Balanced, 40% Blue Green 60% Balanced, 40% Green Perfectly balanced to deliver natural ash results. Blue base consistently controls unwanted warmth and orange tones. Balanced, natural-looking ash with extra control over undesired warmth. Green base controls stubborn red tones. B Yellow-Green 60% Balanced, 40% Yellow-Green BC Yellow-Green-Orange 60% Balanced, 30% Yellow-Green, 10% Orange True, natural beige without unwanted red or ash undertones. Ideal for classic blondes and delicate control against warmth. Excellent for gray blending. Rich beige with added copper tones. Beautiful alone or when added to the Natural Series to create warm naturals. G GC CG NC C CC RRC R RR RV V P Yellow 60% Balanced, 40% Yellow Yellow-Orange 60% Balanced, 30% Yellow, 10% Orange Orange-Yellow 60% Balanced, 30% Orange, 10% Yellow Balanced with Orange 90% Balanced, 10% Orange Orange 60% Balanced, 40% Orange Orange-Orange 50% Balanced, 50% Orange Red-Red-Orange 40% Balanced, 50% Red, 10% Orange Red 60% Balanced, 40% Red Red-Red 50% Balanced, 50% Red Red-Violet 60% Balanced, 30% Red, 10% Violet Violet 60% Balanced, 40% Violet Violet-Blue 60% Balanced, 30% Violet, 10% Blue Brilliant gold perfectly balanced to deliver vibrant warmth when used alone, to impart rich golden tonal balance to any shade, or for extra warmth in gray coverage formulations. Provides rich golden tone with enhanced warmth from copper tones. Ideal to create naturally-occurring copper shades with rich, gold undertones. Balanced base with a hint of orange to create a rich natural copper. Warm, shiny copper creates clear, radiant tones. Ultra copper for the ultra effect bold and deep. Fiery red and orange tones with rich translucent depth and reflection. Use alone for maximum impact, or layer into brown shades for a fiery shine. Cool red adds depth and smoldering glow to brunettes. Beautiful and bold. Contains extra red pigments that intensify depth with ruby-like intensity. Red and violet merge to create velvety tones without warmth. Magnificently vibrant violet browns create burgundy hues in brunette hair. Pearls create mysteriously luminescent blonde hair. Violet-blue tones control warmth while adding a pearly luster. LETTER BASE RECOMMENDED USE B Blue Enhances blue tones. Controls orange tones. Deepens ash tones. VIOLET MIX V Violet Enhances violet tones. Controls yellow tones and brassiness. RED MIX R Red Enhances red tones. Adds warmth. X MIX X Green-Yellow Controls red tones. Deepens ash tones. Reduces warmth. COPPER MIX C Orange Enhances orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Reduces ash tones. GOLD MIX G Yellow Enhances gold tones, adds warmth. Reduces violet tones

13 COLOR WHEEL X 200AX 8AX 7AX 6AX 5AX 4AX 5RRC 5R R 5RR 200A 200P 200V

14 SHADE CHART FAMILY Natural Ultra Natural Ash Extra Ash Beige Beige-Copper Gold Gold-Copper Copper-Gold LETTER N NN A AX B BC G GC CG BASE Balanced True-to-tone & on-level. 100% Balanced Balanced For resistant or compromised hair. On tone & level at 75% gray. 100% Balanced Blue Controls warmth and neutralizes orange tones. 60% Balanced 40% Blue Green Controls warmth and neutralizes red tones. 60% Balanced 40% Green Yellow-Green Adds gold tones while controlling unwanted warmth. 60% Balanced 40% Yellow-Green Yellow-Green- Orange Adds warmth while controlling red tones. 60% Balanced 30% Yellow-Green 10% Orange Yellow Adds warmth with golden tone. 60% Balanced 40% Yellow Yellow-Orange Adds warmth with gold & copper tones. 60% Balanced 30% Yellow 10% Orange Orange-Yellow Adds warmth with copper & gold tones. 60% Balanced 30% Orange 10% Yellow 200 Super Lift Blonde 200A 200AX 100 High Lift Blonde A 100B 10 Very Light Blonde 10N 10NN 10A 9 Light Blonde 9N 9NN 9A 9B 9G 8 Medium Blonde 8N 8NN 8A 8AX 8B 8G 7 Dark Blonde 7N 7NN 7A 7AX 7B 7G 7GC 7CG 6 Light Brown 6N 6NN 6A 6AX 6B 6BC 6G 6GC 6CG 5 Medium Brown 5N 5NN 5A 5AX 5G 5CG 4 Dark Brown 4N 4NN 4A 4AX 4BC 4CG 3 Brown/Black 3N Black 1N

15 Natural Copper Copper Ultra Copper Ultra Red-Copper Red Ultra Red Red Violet Violet Pearl Mix Tones NC C CC RRC R RR RV V P Orange Enhances warmth in natural tones with copper. Orange Adds warmth with copper tones. Orange-Orange Adds warmth with intense copper tones. Red-Red-Orange Adds warmth with intense red & copper tones. Red Adds rich, cool red tones. Red-Red Adds warmth with intense red tones. Red-Violet Adds cool red & violet tones. Violet Adds cool violet tones. Neutralizes gold tones. Violet-Blue Enhances cool blonde tones. Neutralizes yellow & orange tones. Enhances or controls tones. 90% Balanced 10% Orange 60% Balanced 40% Orange 50% Balanced 50% Orange 40% Balanced 50% Red 10% Orange 60% Balanced 40% Red 50% Balanced 50% Red 60% Balanced 30% Red 10% Violet 60% Balanced 40% Violet 60% Balanced 30% Violet 10% Blue 200V 200P 100V 100P 10P 9P 8C 8P G 7NC 7C 7CC C 6RRC 6R X 5RRC 5R 5RR 5V R 4RRC 4R 4RV 4V V B

16 Hair Structure Understanding Hair Structure Melanin How L ANZA Oxidative Haircolor works Permanent Color Demi Permanent Color Demi Translucent Color L ANZA s unique 3-in-1 Flexibility Permanent Color Demi Permanent Color Demi Translucent Color

17 HAIR STRUCTURE and HAIRCOLOR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

18 Hair Structure UNDERSTANDING HAIR STRUCTURE Hair fiber is composed of 3 main layers Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla. The Cuticle and Cortex are bound together by the Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM). Cortex The cortex is the main component of the hair responsible for its mechanical properties. Contains Melanin. Responsible for the elasticity of the hair. One of the most important parts for hair coloration. Medulla The medulla can influence the overall sheen of the hair, but has no additional cosmetic effect. It may be absent from some hair. Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM) The membrane that surrounds all cuticle and cortex cells and connects them to one another. Cuticle A clear layer of flat, overlapping cells that protects the cortex. It mainly influences the look and feel of the hair. Protects the inner cortex. Healthy, closed cuticle reflects shine. Damaged, open cuticle feels rough and appears dull

19 MELANIN Melanin is the pigment found in the cortex of the hair. The proportion of melanin determines the variation of natural haircolor ranging from the lightest blonde to the deepest black. There are two types of Melanin. Varying concentrations of each melanin will result in all natural hair color. Eumelanin is the darker pigment and is responsible for brown and black hair colors. Phaeomelanin is the lighter pigment and is responsible for blonde and red hair colors. Dark brown hair will have High levels of Eumelanin. Low levels of Phaeomelanin. Blonde and copper hair will have High levels of Phaeomelanin. Low levels of Eumelanin.

20 How L ANZA Oxidative Haircolor Works L ANZA uses one oxidative color molecule to create three different types of color. Oxidative Color Precursors The pigments in oxidative color start off as Precursors, or small undeveloped pigments. As they pass through the cuticle layers and enter the cortex, they interact with the oxidative ingredients to create the color change. Also known as non-direct pigments, oxidative color creates long-lasting, vibrant haircolor. PRECURSORS Every tube of L ANZA Healing Color contains colorless Precursors, along with our Keratin Healing System, Flower Shield Complex, and other ingredients that form the cream base. PERMANENT COLOR 1:1 When haircolor molecules are exposed to oxygen from a developer, they begin to oxidize and pass through the cuticle layer into the cortex. At the same time, the natural melanin may be lifted and undertone exposed. The artificial pigments then link together to form color chains locking them inside the hair strand. This final visual result is a combination of the light reflecting and refracting on the lifted natural melanin and the artificial pigments. L ANZA Healing Color also contains our exclusive Color Attachment Technology (Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex), which contribute to better color uptake, more durable color, and healthier hair. The volume of developer helps to determine how deeply into the cortex the color penetrates. Since Healing Color uses a very low percentage of ammonia in the shades, the cuticle layer is less affected during the color service, promoting the shine of the hair. A Permanent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 1 part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). DEMI PERMANENT COLOR 1:2 L ANZA Healing Color utilizes the same permanent color molecule for Demi Permanent color services. When Healing Color is mixed with Demi Cream Developer, the color formula will penetrate slightly into the cortex layer and form the same color chains as permanent color, creating a longer lasting color, better coverage, more shine and healthier hair. A Demi Permanent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR 1:1:2 A Demi Translucent Color formula can be used in a variety of ways for toning, glossing and adding shine and brilliance to the hair. If the hair is very porous or in poor condition, a Demi Translucent Color formula is also recommended. The purpose of the Translucent Color Catalyst is to reduce the activity of the ammonia and make it 99.9% non-effective. The result is a color mixture that behaves like an acid color on the hair, creating a sheer gloss for the hair with increased shine, manageability and color longevity. A Demi Translucent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 1 part Translucent Color Catalyst, then with 2 parts Demi Cream Developer

21 L ANZA s Unique 3-in-1 Flexibility 1. PERMANENT COLOR Oxidizes in the cortex and will alter the natural melanin. May also be used for darkening the hair and is recommended for gray coverage. A line of demarcation will result depending on the client s natural growth cycle. Any lifting or lightening procedure is considered permanent haircolor. Mixed 1:1 with Cream Developer. 2. DEMI PERMANENT COLOR Penetrates the cuticle layer and deposits color into the cuticle and partially into the cortex. Usually does not disturb the natural melanin, as the developer and ammonia levels are low. Generally lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. Mixed 1:2 with Demi Cream Developer. 3. DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR Penetrates cuticle slightly and does not disturb the natural melanin in the hair. Demi Translucent Color Catalyst encapsulates and inactivates 99.9% of the ammonia. Mixed 1:1:2 with Translucent Color Catalyst and Demi Cream Developer.

22 Steps to Successful Color Formulation Step 1 Choosing Your Target Color Tone and Base Color Consider the Client s Features Consider the Hair Texture and Density Consider Hair Condition and Porosity Step 2 Determine the Undertone Step 3 Determine Natural and Existing Level At Scalp At Mid-Shaft At Ends Step 4 Change in Level and Tone Step 5 Verify the Percentage of Gray Account for Gray Coverage Step 6 Formulate L ANZA Permanent Color Formulation L ANZA Demi Permanent Color Formulation L ANZA Demi Translucent Color Formulation Color Results

23 healing color FORMULATION Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

24 Steps to Successful Color Formulation Below is an overview of the steps to successful color formulation. Each step is explained in more detail in this chapter. 1 2 TC UT Select your Target Color (TC). What color are you trying to achieve? Be sure to assess the client s hair and features to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control, or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. 3 NL / EL Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Level Finder in the back of the L ANZA Swatch Book. Natural Level (NL) the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. Existing Level (EL) the level of previously-colored hair. Please note that hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. 4 L / T Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone Level (L) Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? Tone (T) Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of the hair to achieve the Target Color. 5 % GRAY Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. 6 F Formulate. When formulating to achieve your Target Color, select the appropriate shade to enhance or control the Undertone and change the Tone, the appropriate developer for the change in Level, then add the missing pigments for Gray coverage. Process for the full recommended time

25 STEP 1 Choosing Your Target Color To select your Target Color (TC), determine what color(s) you are trying to achieve. Be sure to assess the client s hair and features first to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. TONE AND BASE COLOR First, consider the tone you want to see in the Target Color results. Tone is the warmth or coolness of a color. Warm tones reflect light and appear lighter. Cool tones absorb light and appear darker. The dominant base tone in any haircolor mixture will give a shade its overall characteristic. CONSIDER THE CLIENT S FEATURES In haircutting, you need to consider a client s facial features, and determine which you would like to accentuate and which you would like to diminish. The same principles apply to color. Color can make hair look thicker or finer, more or less dense, solid or broken textured, shiny or duller. Color can also influence the client s complexion, making it look less sallow, ruddy or flushed. The Final Decision It s important to consider the client s features, skin tone, and hair condition when selecting your Target Color... However, the final decision is often influence by regional trends, fashion and client preference!

26 CONSIDER THE HAIR CONDITION AND POROSITY Condition and Porosity are critical when considering your formula and application approach. Has hair been previously colored? Has hair been permed or relaxed? Has hair been treated with a Keratin Straightening Service? What is the overall condition of the hair? Is it healthy or compromised? REMEMBER, L ANZA Healing Color is a flexible 3-in-1 system, so you can use one shade to formulate Permanent, Demi Permanent, and Demi Translucent Color for new growth and the same shade to formulate for Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color for the mid-shaft and ends. POROUS Open cuticle layer Increased absorption Color fades more easily Uneven color attachment RECOMMENDATION Use Trauma Treatment before service or add it to the color formula. Use the Ultimate Treatment before service. Fill or pre-pigment with Demi Permanent Color formula first. Use Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula. NON- POROUS Closed, tight cuticle layer Resistant to color products Results appear lighter than the Target Color Does not lighten to Target Color easily RECOMMENDATION Use a Permanent Color forumla. Adjust mixing ratio to 2 parts Healing Color to 1 part Cream Developer. Use the Ultra Natural Series (NN) instead of the Natural Series (N) for gray coverage. Fill or pre-pigment the hair when going darker. Use a higher Volume of L ANZA Cream Developer. CONSIDER THE HAIR TEXTURE AND DENSITY The texture and density of the hair affects color depth and tone, and how the hair will respond to a color service. Hair Texture fine, coarse? Hair Density thick, medium, sparse? 24 25

27 STEP 2 Determine the Undertone Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. When lifting, Undertones are always revealed, and contribute significantly to the final color result. The number of levels you lift will determine the shade you will choose and the volume of Cream Developer. It is important that the Natural and Existing Levels are carefully determined in the next step. Level & Undertones LEVEL DESCRIPTIONS Very Light Blonde Light Blonde Medium Blonde Dark Blonde Light Brown Medium Brown Dark Brown Brown/Black UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING Pale Yellow Yellow Yellow - Orange Orange Orange - Red Red - Orange Red Red - Brown NEUTRALIZING BASE Violet Violet Violet - Blue Blue Blue - Green Green - Blue Green Green ENHANCING BASE Gold Gold Gold - Copper Copper Copper - Red Red - Copper Red Red Consider the Undertone at both your NL/EL and Target Color When going darker more than 3 levels, be sure to consider the Undertone at both the Natural/Existing Level and the Target Color. This will help you determine which Undertones you need to replace, which will affect your shade selection. 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 1 Black NONE NONE NONE

28 STEP 3 Determine Natural and Existing Level Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Natural Level Finder in the back of the L ANZA Swatch Book. Natural Level (NL) the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. Existing Level (EL) the level of previously-colored hair. Hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. AT SCALP Can you see the natural level or is it previously colored? Be very careful to seek out the true natural level, especially when lightening. AT MID-SHAFT This section requires care and consideration in formulation. Unless you are lifting, a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula may be your best option. AT ENDS Porosity and damage from aging, thermal tools and environmental aggressors can create genuine problems for the ends. Use Trauma Treatment or Magic Bullet to protect the ends prior to color application and promote even color attachment. If ends are darker due to excess deposit from prior color services, consider performing a color cleanse or use a Demi Translucent formula to refresh. Using the Natural Level Finder Hold the Natural Level Finder so that the numbers are not facing upward. Select 2 to 3 swatches that are close to the level of the hair. Remember that warm hair tones may appear lighter and cool tones darker, so it s important to evaluate the actual Level. Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend into the hair to make the best evaluation. When you have decided upon the best match, flip the tab over to view the level

29 STEP 4 Change in Level and Tone Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone. Level (L) Tone (T) Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of the hair to achieve the Target Color. This step will help you choose the appropriate Cream Developer for each shade and section of the hair. TONE Consider the Undertone As you lift to a lighter level, you will also uncover warmth. Please refer to the Undertone Chart. Undertones when Decolorizing If you are decolorizing, remember to consider the undertone exposed during the 7 stages of lift. Pale Yellow Yellow LEVEL Gold Red-Orange Red Brown Black

30 STEP 5 Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder in the back of the Swatch Book. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. For additional information, refer to the chapter on formulation for gray hair. ACCOUNT FOR GRAY COVERAGE When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. The Ultra Natural Series (NN). The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 25% 0-25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 50% 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color

31 STEP 6 Formulate When formulating, choose your shade selection to achieve your Target Color, accounting for Gray coverage/coloring, increasing or decreasing the Level, and enhancing or controlling your Undertone. Selecting the appropriate Cream Developer determines how deeply into the cortex the color penetrates and oxidation occurs. Choose your L ANZA Cream Developer to achieve the appropriate formula for your Target Color.

32 L ANZA PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Color 1:1 with 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer. Lighten Darken Tone-on-Tone Cover Gray Select the appropriate developer based on the amount of lift you would like to achieve. Retouch Application When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula to refresh the ends! PERMANENT Lighten Darken Cover Gray 1:1 10 Volume (3%) 20 Volume (6%) 30 Volume (9%) 40 Volume (12%) Tone-on-Tone 1-2 Levels of Lift 2-3 Levels of Lift 3-4 Levels of Lift 30 min 35 min 40 min 50 min 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) May cover gray for non-resistant hair types. Also recommended for gray coverage. Also recommended for coverage of resistant gray hair. Also recommended for use with High Lift and Super Lift Blondes with a 1:2 mixing ratio A Permanent Color formula will deposit color all the way into the cortex of the hair and will affect the natural melanin.

33 L ANZA DEMI PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Demi Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Color 1:2 with Demi Cream Developer. Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh Pre-Pigment gray hair Fill over-processed or lightened hair Retouch Application When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh the ends! DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh Demi Permanent Color can be used to eliminate or reduce the line of demarcation as hair grows out. 1:2 Demi Cream Developer Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%) 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Deposit Only Fill 20 min 10 min May also be used with the Ultra Natural Series for gray coverage on damaged or compromised hair. Demi Permanent Color will deposit color in the cuticle and outer cortex only. It will not disturb the natural melanin in the hair.

34 Mix Properly Be sure to mix Healing Color with the Translucent Color Catalyst first, and then add the Demi Cream Developer. L ANZA DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Demi Translucent Color formula by mixing Healing Color in a two-step process: 1) Combine Healing Color 1:1 with Translucent Color Catalyst to reduce the activity of the ammonia and make it 99.9% non-effective. Mix well. 2) Add 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. Mix well. Demi Translucent Color can be used to Refresh Tone Gloss Color compromised or fragile hair DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone Gloss Enhance 1: 1: 2: Demi Translucent Color can be layered on top of any haircolor service! Try it over brunettes or redheads to enhance or intensify tones! 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Demi Translucent Color needs BOTH! Mix first to deactivate Ammonia Then add Demi Cream Developer Translucent Color Catalyst makes 99.9% of the ammonia non-effective. Demi Cream Developer Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%) Deposit Only Tone or Gloss min min Demi Translucent Color will deposit color on and just beneath the cuticle only. It uses an oxidative dye molecule to provide color longevity and shine. It will not disturb the natural melanin in the hair.

35 RESULTS Variations in results can be achieved simply by changing between a Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent formula. PERMANENT Lighten Darken Cover Gray DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone Gloss Enhance 1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer = PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT

36 Adjusting the Formula for Gray Coverage Formulation for Gray Coverage Coverage for Normal Hair Coverage for Resistant Gray Hair Alternative Formula for Resistant Gray Hair Coverage for Warmer Results or Vibrant Fashion Shades Application Tips for Optimal Gray Coverage Pre-Pigmentation

37 formulation for GRAY HAIR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

38 Adjusting the Formula for Gray Coverage Gray hair is lacking the base pigment necessary to support the Target Color. These pigments must be added into your formula or filled into the hair to achieve gray coverage. Use the Natural (N) or Ultra Natural (NN) series in your formula to add these missing pigments. For controlled results choose a Target Color within 2 to 3 Levels from the Natural Level. In most cases we are working with hair that contains both pigmented and non-pigmented hair, and both should be considered for the formula. Account for Gray Coverage When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. The Ultra Natural Series (NN). The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY 25% 50% TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 0-25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) Use the Percentage Gray Swatches Remember to determine the Natural Level of the hair as well. This can be tricky as gray hair can make the Natural Level appear lighter! Determining the correct percentage of gray hair can make the difference in achieving gray coverage! Hold the Gray Swatches up to the hair. Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend into the hair to make the best evaluation. 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color

39 Formulation for Gray Coverage COVERAGE FOR NORMAL HAIR Choose a Permanent Color formula to achieve complete gray coverage. Start with a formula for the hair that is NOT GRAY, adjust formula for Percentage of Gray using the Gray Coverage Chart 10 Volume is ideal for (but not limited to) fine to medium-textured hair. 20 Volume is ideal for (but not limited to) medium to coarse-textured hair. Demi Cream Developer is ideal for (but not limited to) gray blending. When using a Permanent Color to cover gray at new growth, choose a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh mid-shaft and ends and add shine. Use the same Target Color without adjusting the formula for gray coverage. You do not add N or NN to the mid-shaft and ends formula. EXAMPLE TC UT NL L/T 5 golden brown red-orange % Gray 50% 7 natural blonde 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm FORMULA FOR GRAY COVERAGE WITH NATURAL (N) 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT NATURAL (N) Option 1 Demi Permanent Color 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer Option 2 Demi Translucent Color 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes Gray Blending If you want to blend gray without complete coverage, use the same shades with Demi Cream Developer. Apply from scalp to ends. Example: 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 60g Demi Cream Developer Avoid Line of Demarcation If your client is concerned about having a prominent line of demarcation, try using a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula. This will blend gray and gradually lighten on-tone until the next color service.

40 COVERAGE FOR RESISTANT GRAY HAIR When formulating for any resistant gray hair, L ANZA recommends: The Ultra Natural Series (NN) which contains increased pigment concentration to provide complete gray coverage. Use 20 Volume Cream Developer with additional processing time for color development. EXAMPLE TC UT NL L/T 5 golden brown red-orange 7 natural blonde 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 50% (resistant) FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE WITH ULTRA NATURAL (NN) 22g 5G + 8g 5NN + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer Process for 35 minutes FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT ULTRA NATURAL (NN) Option 1 Demi Permanent Color 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer Option 2 Demi Translucent Color 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes Retouch Application Apply your new growth formula at the scalp first. Then, as you apply the refresh formula, cross-check for complete color saturation at the scalp

41 ALTERNATIVE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY HAIR If you do not have the Ultra Natural Series, L ANZA recommends: The Natural Series (N) and change the mixing ratio to 2 parts Healing Color and 1 part Cream Developer. Use 30 Volume Cream Developer with additional processing time for color development. EXAMPLE TC UT NL L/T 5 golden brown orange-red 7 natural blonde 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 50% (resistant) FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE WITH NATURAL (N) 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 15g 30 Volume Cream Developer Note: mixing ratio is 2:1 Process for 40 minutes FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT NATURAL (N) Option 1 Demi Permanent Color 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer Option 2 Demi Translucent Color 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes

42 FORMULATION FOR GRAY COVERAGE WITH WARMER RESULTS OR VIBRANT FASHION SHADES Replace the Natural Series (N) or Ultra Natural (NN) with a shade(s) from the following families to replace the missing pigments at the Target Color. Red (R) Level & Undertones Copper (C) Gold (G) Gold-Copper (GC) Copper-Gold (CG) LEVEL 10 9 DESCRIPTIONS Very Light Blonde Light Blonde UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING Pale Yellow Yellow NEUTRALIZING BASE Violet Violet ENHANCING BASE Gold Gold 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 1 Black NONE NONE NONE EXAMPLE TC UT NL L/T % Gray 50% 5 red-copper red-orange 7 natural blonde 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm FORMULA FOR VIBRANT RED ON GRAY HAIR 15g 5RRC + 15g 5CG + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS OPTION 1 Demi Permanent Color 30g 5RRC + 60g Demi Cream Developer OPTION 2 Demi Translucent Color 30g 5RRC + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes 40 41

43 Application Tips for Optimal Gray Coverage Be sure the hair is thoroughly saturated during the application - especially around hairline. Use L ANZA Protective Barrier Cream to protect skin from staining. Take thin slices and apply color on both sides of the part. After applying color, cross-check application. If you applied the color in horizontal sections, re-work color in vertical sections. After application, keep hair close to the scalp to retain heat during processing. This is especially important for resistant gray hair coverage. Apply color to both sides of the part. Taking thin sections ensures proper coverage and saturation of the color. Each slice should be thin enough to see through. Cleanse the hair first To ensure the best gray coverage, be sure to cleanse the hair before color application. See section on Preparing the Hair for more information. DON T thick section DO thin section Pre-Pigmentation Rare situations may require pre-pigmentation. This is usually done for spot coverage of a gray patch. PRE-PIGMENTING THE HAIR Choose the natural shade one level lighter than the Target Color, and mix as a Demi Permanent Color formula. Apply to the gray patch only and process for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot dry. Apply a Permanent Color formula with your Target Color to the entire head, and process for the complete time.

44 Guidelines For Red Formulation Virgin Application Retouch Application Red Formulation: Going Darker Going Darker 1 to 3 Levels Going Darker More Than 3 Levels Mix Tones Creating Vibrant Fashion Tones

45 formulation for RADIANT REDS Healing Color Hotline 1(888) US/WorldWide

46 Guidelines for Red Formulation Choose a Target Color that is no more than 2 to 3 levels lighter or darker than starting level to ensure optimum control and longevity. The proper Undertone must be present to support Target Color to ensure durability. To maintain vibrancy, choose a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh ends. VIRGIN APPLICATION EXAMPLE: TC UT NL bright level 7 copper orange 5 natural brown FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer FORMULA FOR MID-SHAFT AND ENDS 30g 7CC + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer Avoid hot roots! Using a lower volume Cream Developer at the scalp will avoid hot roots and create a more natural effect. L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to copper % Gray 0% Process for 35 minutes Process for 40 minutes RETOUCH APPLICATION EXAMPLE: TC UT NL L/T % Gray 0% bright level 7 copper orange 5 natural brown 2 levels lighter, from neutral to copper FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer Process for 35 minutes FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS OPTION 1 Demi Permanent Color 30g 7CC + 60g Demi Cream Developer OPTION 2 Demi Translucent Color 30g 7CC + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes 44 45

47 Red Formulation: Going Darker When going darker, you will need to add the appropriate pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. You can use a shade(s) from the following families for vibrant results with durability. Red (R) Copper (C) Gold (G) Gold-Copper (GC) Copper-Gold (CG) GOING DARKER 1 TO 3 LEVELS You must add in the pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. EXAMPLE TC 5 red UT red-orange NL 7 natural blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to red % Gray 0% FORMULA Very Vibrant Red Warm Red Natural Red Process for 20 minutes Level & Undertones LEVEL LEVEL NUMBER DESCRIPTIONS Very Light Blonde Light Blonde Medium Blonde Dark Blonde Light Brown Medium Brown Dark Brown Brown/Black Dark Brown/Black UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 60g Demi Cream Developer Black Pale Yellow Yellow Yellow - Orange Orange Orange - Red Red - Orange Red Red - Brown Brown NONE Violet Violet Violet - Blue Blue Blue - Green Green - Blue Green Green Green NONE ENHANCING BASE Gold Gold Gold - Copper Copper Copper - Red Red - Copper Red Red Red NONE Going darker more than 3 levels Be sure to consider the Undertone at BOTH the starting level and the level of the Target Color to determine which pigments need to be added back into the hair. GOING DARKER MORE THAN 3 LEVELS L ANZA recommends that you fill the hair to ensure vibrancy, durability and longevity. If you do not fill hair first, results may appear hollow or fade quickly. Fill the hair choosing a shade one level lighter than the Target Color to support the Undertone at the Target Color. Apply a Demi Permanent formula to the hair, process for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly Do not shampoo. Blot hair with towel. Apply Target Color in a Permanent Color formula with 10 Volume Cream Developer. EXAMPLE TC 5 red UT red-orange NL 9 natural blonde L/T 4 levels darker, from neutral to red % Gray 0% FORMULA TO FILL 30g 6CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot with towel. FORMULA FOR SECONDARY APPLICATION Very Vibrant Red 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Warm Red 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Natural Red 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes

48 Mix Tones Mix Tones can be used to neutralize or enhance color, according to the color wheel. When adding Mix Tones to enhance tone or refine warmth, it is recommended to add up to ¼ of the total color mixture with the selected Mix Tones. MIX TONE BASE RECOMMENDED USE BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX Blue Violet Red Enhances blue tones, controls orange tones. Deepens ash tones. Enhances violet tones. Controls yellow tones and brassiness. Enhances red tones. Adds warmth. Mix Tone Additions* Enhancement Of Tone BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX LEVEL Violet g Violet Violet up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g Violet up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 7 g COPPER MIX Orange Enhances orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Reduces ash tones. 6 5 up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g GOLD MIX Yellow Enhances gold tones, adds warmth. Reduces violet tones. 4 3 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g X MIX Green-Yellow Reduces red tones. Prevents unwanted warmth. 2 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 1 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g EXAMPLE FORMULA *Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 28 g Healing Color. TC UT NL L/T % Gray 6 cool, light brown orange-red OPTION 1 30g 6AX + 30g 40 Volume Cream Developer 3 natural brown OPTION 2 3 levels lighter, from neutral to cool 27g 6A + 3g X Mix + 30g 40 Volume Cream Developer 0% Process for 50 minutes Refinement Of Warmth BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX X MIX LEVEL up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 1 g up to 1 g Violet up to 3 g up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g 6 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 5 up to 1 g up to 3 g In the example above, 40 Volume Cream Developer was used to lift the Undertone slightly higher, so that the formula would produce a cooler result. For a warmer result, 30 Volume Cream Developer would keep more red in the Undertone. 4 3 up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 3 g 2 up to 3 g