Land of Lakes & Snows

Transcription

1 Jammu & Kashmir Land of Lakes & Snows Surrounded by Tibet, Afghanistan and Pakistan, the state of Jammu-Kashmir is rather well known for its instability, terrorism and the Indo-Pakistani tensions. Yet, the beautiful state continues to attract many Indian and western tourists who paradoxically, are looking for peace and serenity in the heart of Himalayan mountains. Text and Photos by Christine Nayagam Jammu & Kashmir

2 Dal Lake In each Himalayan state of North India: From Arunachal Pradesh in the east to Himachal Pradesh in the west, passing through Sikkim, Uttarakhand and Darjeeling, the Himalayan views provoke different sensations, according to the different ambiances. Here, in the valley of Srinagar, at 1730 metre altitude, the mountains seem so close that their snows are reflected in the waters of the lakes and their bright lights illuminate the whole city. From Delhi to Srinagar, the trip is not very long. In just over an hour, we cross the green plains of Punjab, the hilly region of Jammu, from where we can start seeing the mountains, to finally land in Srinagar, the state capital. The first vision is a 360 view. Rows of mountains are standing tall, at all sides. The cold wind coming from the snowy peaks in this winter period traverses the city while the sun and the blue sky offers a gleaming and pristine view. As we had not booked any hotels, we march into the Tourist Reception Centre in the city centre and it is here that we run into Hanif, a very chatty but well informed person, who invites us to discover his houseboat, by promising an exceptionally low tariff. This is thus by chance that we pass our first night on his boat and that we discover how people live on the lake waters. 42 India & You March-April 2009 Life on the Lake Houseboats are synonymous with Srinagar. Their introduction dates back to the 19th century at a time when the valley was flooded by the British members of the Indian Civil Service but who were not allowed to build their own permanent homes in Kashmir by the Dogra Maharaja who feared the growing presence of the British in Srinagar. Then one fine day, in 1888, M T Kenhard, a member of the ICS, built the first houseboat and named it Victory. The lake is indeed the jewel of the city and reflects the town s spirit. Source of inspiration for many poets and writers, it is divided in four parts: Gagribal, Lokut Dal, Bod Dal and Nagin. The Dal Lake has been described by several as being the most beautiful lake in the world and it is this lake and the surroundings that made the Mughal Emperor Jehangir proclaim that if heaven existed on this earth, it was indeed here. Today, though, the lake is facing serious environmental problems caused not only by the increasing number of houseboats, but also the pollution from the city and also erosion. Over the years, the size of the lake has shrunk considerably, alarming the government and the environmentalists and now the government has set up a project to save the lake. Besides removing the deadly weeds that were killing the ecosystem in the lake, the government also wants to reduce the population load on the lake by shifting some of the people. But most of these people live hand to mouth and are dependent upon tourism and fishery both activities linked to the lake and are reluctant to move. The proposal has run into opposition and we did see several houseboat owners participating in a peaceful protest. On the lake you will find all kinds of hotel-boats with quite unusual names, such as Hollywood, Queen Elizabeth or Lufthansa. Whether luxurious or very basic, these houseboats have rapidly become the principal attraction of the city. For those looking for a good boat in terms of quality/price, it costs around 800 rupees the night and 1000 rupees: night, dinner, breakfast included. A tour of the lake is mandatory for those who are coming to Srinagar for the first time and it is with enthusiasm that we take a small canoe or shikara (200 rupees per hour) to discover the life of its inhabitants. With nearly 1500 houseboats and more than 100,000 people living there, the lake is a city within the city where you find everything that s necessary for the day to day life. Like every home has its own car in Europe, every house possesses its shikara and uses it as a

3 Houseboats on the lake India & You March-April

4 Tourism shop or as mode of transportation to go to school or market. Here the situation is inverse. On the lake, you don t need to go to the market, the market comes to you! We are almost surrounded by merchants selling saffron (one of the specialties of the state), saris, home products We see the market, an agricultural area where people grow all kinds of vegetables and we finish our trip with a small floating restaurant where, sitting in our own shikara, we appreciate the kahwa, the local tea, along with pakoras, a traditional Indian snack. On the lake, we can spot several couples getting photographed in traditional Kashmiri clothes. In fact, a large number of Indian films have been shot here in the city and on the lake and the lake has such a romantic impact on the Indians who come here for honeymoon. Here the inhabitants are used to tourists and many of them speak 44 India & You March-April 2009

5 Jamia Masjid very good English even if they have never been to a school. I learnt my English from the tourists, I receive here on my boat various nationalities the French, Americans, English, Germans and Australians, says Hanif, the owner of our houseboat. You will also find at Srinagar, vendors of jewels and precious stones transported around the lake in a shikara. The precious stones such as rubies or emeralds are mined in the Himalayas. I sell a lot of precious and semi-precious stones to the Western tourists, I also supply to the jewelers in Europe. These jewels are then sold much more expensive there, but here we sell them at really good bargain prices, says Nazir, the president of the Dal Lake Hawkers Association and a jeweller belonging to a family that has been involved in this art for several generations. A true stone or false, our amateur eyes, unfortunately, can not differentiate, but the attractive price and the numerous affirmations by the vendor end up convincing us and we buy an emerald ring in silver, costing us 2500 rupees or 40 euros. Srinagar : A Cultural Mix Srinagar was founded by King Pravarasena II nearly 2000 years ago and since then has imbibed influences from the several different dynasties that have ruled here. The Maurya Dynasty in the 3rd century BC with the Emperor Ashoka, followed by the Kushans in the 1st century AD who reinforced the Buddhist influence brought to the region by Ashoka. Srinagar was controlled by the Huns in the 6th century and from the 14th century it came under Islamic influence, with the Mughals taking control in the 16th century. In the 18th century, the Sikh ruler, Maharaja Ranjit Singh conquered it and finally it passed to the Hindu Dogra rulers under the Treaty of Amritsar. Little wonder then that Srinagar has numerous religious sites such as the famous Hazratbal Shrine where the hair of Prophet Mohammed is stored, the Shankracharya Temple, built in 371 BC, also known as the Shiva Temple, the Jamia Masjid, the Khanqah-e-Molla, and the Chhati Padshahi Gurdwara constructed in the honour of the Sixth Sikh Guru. All day long, the city vibrates with echoes of prayers in the mosques, which have also set the rythm the daily life here. Despite a Muslim majority population the Hindus and Sikhs also live here. There is no conflict between the various communities here, it may be a conflict between the haves and the have nots or the poor people and the government. The local population is divided into three groups, those who wish Jammu & Kashmir to be independent of both India and Pakistan, those who wish to be allied with Pakistan and those who are happy with the status quo with the current government, says Hassan. As tourists, we do not see any real tensions or acts against tourists. On the contrary, with a large chunk of population living off tourism, this is the principal bread earner for the people. Also, the situation in A gate in the old walled city India & You March-April

6 Skiers in Gulmarg Jammu & Kashmir has improved considerably over the last five years, making the tourists return in big numbers here. The old town has narrow lanes and very old buildings, resembling a labyrinthe with shops selling typical fabrics, carpets, dry fruits and other regional products. Gulmarg : Ski in Paradise In winter, most of the tourists head for the regions around Srinagar. Of these, Gulmarg is unique since it offers the best opportunities for winter sports. So, we hire a car and head for Gulmarg (costing Rs 3000 for the Srinagar-Gulmarg-Srinagar with a night halt at Gulmarg included). En route, we discover the rural life in the Kashmir valley and the fields which are being prepared for the onset of spring and several orchards with a variety of fruit and nut trees. As we gain altitude, the temperature begins to fall dramatically, the air becomes purer and the view increasingly white. The plateau of Gulmarg, covered with snow, shines brilliantly under the snow and resembles a huge lake of milk. With over 2 m of snow in the recent days, our small chalet operated by Jammu & Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation is entirely submerged under tonnes of snow -- a real igloo! In an environment that is both vertiginous and magnificent at the same time, ski professionals from Europe and other parts of the world come to ski in the Himalayas, always seeking new sensations of adventure, something that Himalayas 46 India & You March-April 2009

7 have in plenty and more than anywhere else in the world. Lately, even Indians have been attracted, particularly school children and young persons coming for their first ski lessons. Gulmarg also offers snowboards, sledges, icehockey and snowmobiles. Equipped with the most modern facilities for skiing, Gulmarg has now become a regular host of international ski championships such as the one scheduled for March 4 to 9 this year. Gulmarg is also home to the world s highest cable car or gandola for skiing which takes you to a height of 3747 m. At the summit of the Kongdoori Mountain, your eyes can feast upon a magnificent view. From here, you can see the region s highest mountain, Nanga Parbat, and the line of control which has become the defacto border between India and Pakistan. We can see at the summit the bunkers of the Indian Army, almost submerged under fresh snow. The slopes of the Afarwat Peak in the Pir Panjal ranges of the Himalayas are amongst the highest and the longest in Asia. As the sun sets, the sky in Gulmarg is radiant with flamboyant colours, contrasting with the whiteness of the ground, and it looks like the sky is on fire. With the spring, Gulmarg transforms radically and the white sheets of snow are replaced verdant green pastures and ideal golfing grounds, while Srinagar too changes its covers and is full of flowers and greenery. The ambience of the region changes also and this becomes a paradise rich in flora and fauna. This is the moment to savour the famous Mughal gardens of Srinagar like Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh, Chashma Shahi and Pari Mahal which have flower beds with thousands of colours. But that s another subject that we will bring you in the summer with another journey into the heart of Jammu and Kashmir. India & You March-April