AVEDA INSTITUE SAN ANTONIO PSI STATE BOARD STUDY GUIDE

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1 AVEDA INSTITUE SAN ANTONIO PSI STATE BOARD STUDY GUIDE BASICS OF CHEMISTRY and ELECTRICITY 1. Organic chemistry is the study of substances containing carbon. 2. Pesticides are examples of organic substances. 3. Matter is any substance that occupies space. 4. Atoms are particles from which all matter is composed of. 5. An elemental molecule is two or more atoms of the same element that unites. 6. Boiling water is an example of liquid to gas because one state of matter is changing to form another. 7. A change in physical properties is when a physical change occurs in a substance. 8. An example of chemical change would be permanent hair color. 9. An example of a chemical compound would be (H2O). 10. An example of a physical mixture would be salt water and fruit salad. 11. A solution is a mixture of two or more solids, liquids, or gases. 12. Liquids that can be mixed together in any portrion without separating are known as miscible. 13. A substance that dissolves another substance to form a solution, with no change in chemical compositio is a solvent. 14. A suspension is a mixture that must be shaken or mixed well before using. 15. Most emulsions used in a salon are oil-in-water emulsions. 16. Emulsions are mixtures of two or more immiscible substances. 17. The head of a surfactant molecule is water loving or hydrophilic. 18. Alkanomines are often used instead of ammonia in hair products because there is not a strong odor. 19. A colorless gas with a strong odor composed of hydrogen and nitrogen is ammonia. 20. In pure water some of the molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions. 21. ph is only possible because of the ionization of alcohol. 22. Acidity and alkalinity is measured by the ph scale. 23. Acidic solutions have a ph of 7.0 and lower. 24. Alkalis soften and swell the hair and have a ph of 7.0 and above. 25. Five is the average ph of skin and hair. 26. Oxidation is when a substance is combined with oxygen. 27. Reduction is the chemical reaction when hydrogen is added to a substance. 28. A conductor is a substance that readily transmits electricity. 29. An example of an insulator would be rubber or silk. 30. A direct current is a constant electrical current traveling in one direction. 31. A unit of electrical pressure is referred to as a volt. 32. An ampere is a unit of electrical strength. 33. A watt is the measurement amount of electrical energy that is being used.

2 34. A circuit breaker is a devise that automatically interrupts or shuts off an electric circuit in case of an overload. 35. Electronic facial treatments are known as electrotherapy. 36. An anode is a positive electrode of electrotherapy. 37. In electrotherapy, the cathode is the negative electrode. 38. A galvanic current is a constant and direct current used to produce chemical effects on the tissues and fluids of the body. 39. An alternating and interrupted current used to cause muscular contractions is the faradic current. 40. A high-frequency current is a electrical current that is used for its heat-producing effects. 41. The anode (positive electrode) of galvanic device contracts blood vessels. 42. The Cathode of galvanic device stimulates the nerves. 43. Disincrustation is the process of softening and emulsifying oil deposits and black heads in the follicles. 44. Visible light makes up 35% of natural sunlight. 45. Ultraviolet rays have short wave lengths and are the least penetrating rays. 46. The invisible rays that produce the most heat are infrared rays. 47. It is estimated that 1in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer. 48. Combination light is known as whit light. 49. The average distance you should place an infrared lamp from the shin is about A safety precaution you should always fallow with electrical equipment is to use only one plug per outl Completed

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4 CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE 1. Chemical texture services are what cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. 2. Resistant hair has a strong, compact cuticle. 3. A perm solution that is less alkaline is best for hair that is chemically treated, damaged, or porous. 4. By breaking the side bonds of the hair a change in the natural wave pattern occurs. 5. Disulfide bonds are the strongest of the three types of side bonds. 6. When changes in ph occur salt bonds are easily broken. 7. In a wet set only a physical change occurs. 8. 1/3 of the hairs total strength comes from hydrogen bonds that are very weak. 9. You can improve your technical skills by making a point to keep up to date, accurate client records. 10. Growth direction, density, elasticity, porosity, and texture are the most important factors to consider in a hair analysis for a chemical service. 11. Coarse, fine and medium are descriptions of hair texture. 12. Coarse hair is usually harder to penetrate when treated with chemical texture services. 13. Fine hair is the easiest to process and the most fragile texture with permanent waving solution. 14. Elasticity is the single most important factor in determining the ability of hair to hold a curl. 15. When wet hair can stretch up to 50% of its original length and then return to that length without breaking it is considered to have normal elasticity. 16. End bond change is caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods. 17. A chemical change occurs when the application of waving solution and neutralizer is done. 18. The type of side bonds broken is different in a perm than a wet set. 19. The size of the curl is determined by the size of the perm tool. 20. Tension is increased by wrapping the hair on small perm tools. 21. Divide the hair into panels and then into base sections for perm wrapping. 22. Base control is know as the position of the tool in relation to its base section. 23. The angle at which the hair is wrapped determines the base control. 24. In on-base placement hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base. 25. Hair is wrapped 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section in off-base placement. 26. Be cautious when using on-base placement because it places additional tension and stress on the hair. 27. Off-base placement creates the least amount of volume. 28. Base direction is known as the angle at which the perm tool is positioned on the head.

5 29. Croquignole wrapping is when the hair is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping layers. 30. Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular in the spiral perm wrapping technique. 31. Concave rods have a smaller circumference in the center than at the ends. 32. Straight rods have the same circumference along their entire length or curling area. 33. Soft bender rods have a distinguished feature because they can be bent into many shapes. 34. To spiral wrap very long hair you can use loop or circle rods. 35. To control the hair ends use end wraps which are absorbent papers used when winding the hair on the perm tool. 36. A single flat wrap is when you use one end paper over the top of the hair strand as you wrap it around the perm tool. 37. A bookend wrap is when you fold one end wrap in half over the hair ends like an envelope. 38. The double flat wrap is the technique that provides the most control over the hair ends and keeps them evenly distributed. 39. Reduction is the chemical reaction known as when the permanent waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds in the cortex. 40. Thiol compounds act as reducing agents in permanent waving solutions. 41. By adding ammonia to thioglycolic acid ammonium thioglycolate is produced. 42. Cold waves is another term for alkaline waves. 43. A wave that requires heat to speed up processing would be most true acid waves. 44. In todays salons most acid waves have a ph between 7.8 and An endothermic permanent wave usually requires heat from an outside source like a hair dryer. 46. A wave that has no unpleasant ammonia odor is a benefit of a ammonia-free wave. 47. Within the first 5 to 10 minutes in permanent waving most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair. 48. It is essential that resistant hair gets complete saturation for proper processing in all permanent waves. 49. About 50 percent of the hair's disulfide bonds should break and be rebuilt during a properly processed permanent wave. 50. Too few disulfide bonds are broken if the hair is underprocessed. 51. Rebuilding broken disulfide bonds and deactivating any remaining waving solution in the hair are the two functions neutralizers perform. 52. Oxidation is the chemical reaction involved in neutralizing. 53. Rinse perm solution from the hair for at least 5 minutes. 54. To avoid lightening the hair color and scalp irritation make sure to rinse perm solution from the hair before neutralizing. 55. Blot the rods with towels after rinsing perm solution from the hair. 56. Applying a pre-neutralizing conditioner is an optional step after blotting the hair and before applying neutralizer. 57. The hydrogen atoms in the broken disulfide bonds are so strongly attracted to the oxygen in the neutralizer that they release their bond with the sulfur atom.

6 58. A demipermanent haircolor may be used on hair that has just been permed unless the scalp is irritated. 59. Hair that has been treated with thio relaxer is safe to perm. 60. Uneven curls, severe discoloration, and hair breakage could occur because metallic salts left a coating on the hair. 61. A mixture of ammonia and peroxide can be used to immerse at least 20 strands of hair to test for metallic salts. 62. A straight set wrap is also called the basic perm wrap. 63. A curvature perm wrap creates a movement that curves within sectioned out panels. 64.The weave wrapping technique uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. 65. The piggyback wrap technique is also called the double tool perm technique. 66. A uniform curl from scalp to ends is produced in the spiral perm technique. 67. A preliminary test curl should be done to determine the proper processing time needed for optimal curl development. 68. Using a larger tool as the last tool next to an unrolled section can make a smooth transition from a rolled to an unrolled section when giving a partial perm. 69. Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form. 70. Chemical hair relaxing is very similar to permanent waving. 71. All relaxers and permanents change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds. 72. Most relaxers contain the same ingredients used in depilatories. 73. Extremely curly hair has varying diameter. 74. The weakest point in extremely curly hair is at its twists. 75. Thio relaxers have a ph above Each step in the ph scale represents a tenfold change in concentration. 77. The process of lanthionization is when hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. 78. The disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers can never be reformed. 79. The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers involves the use of acid-balance shampoos. 80. Client s hair treated with a hydroxide relaxer cannot be treated with a soft curl permanent. 81. Metal hydroxide relaxers are ionic compounds formed by metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen. 82. Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. 83. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers straighten the hair completely but with much less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers. 84. Lithium hydroxide relaxers are marketed as a mild alternative relaxer. 85. Mild relaxers are recommended for fine, damaged, or color treated hair. 86. The application for a virgin relaxaer begins ¼ to ½ away from the scalp. 87. Relaxer should be applied first to the most resistant area which is usually the back of the neck. 88. During a relaxer procedure, a normalizing solution which is conditioners with an acidic ph is always used prior to shampooing. 89. Do periodic strand testing to determine if the hair is sufficiently relaxed.

7 90. To neutralize hydroxide relaxers, shampoo the hair with an acid-balanced shampoo at least 3 times. 91. A soft curl permanent makes existing curls larger. 92. A Jheri curl or soft curl permanent is a combination of thio relaxer and a thio permanent. 93. In a soft curl permanent, the hair is first relaxed, and then wrapped on horizontal base sections. 94. Do not shampoo first when a applying a hydroxide relaxer. 95. You should not attempt to remove more than 80% of the natural curl with chemical relaxing. Completed 3/2007 the latest PS3 news and previews

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9 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE SKIN THEORY 1. The last step in the cleansing process is the application of a toner or tonic lotion. 2. A face wash is best used on clients with oily or combination skin. 3. The very best cleanser for very dry or mature skin is cleansing crème. 4. A facial product that restores the skin s natural ph after cleansing is tonic lotion. 5. Among tonic lotions, the lowest alcohol content is found in fresheners. 6. The highest alcohol content in tonic lotions is found in astringents. 7. An exfoliant is used in the process of peeling and shredding the horny layer of the skin. 8. Almond meal or jojoba bead scrubs are products used for mechanical exfoliation. 9. In microdermabrasion, aluminum chloride and other crystals are directed at the skin in order to abrade the stratum corneum. 10. Substances in enzyme peels that help speed up the breakdown of keratin, the protein in the skin, are keratolytic enzymes. 11. Exfoliants that form a hardened crust on the skin that is then rolled off are often called gommage. 12. A type of enzyme peel that stays soft during application rather than drying to a crust uses a powdered enzyme. 13. A group of exfoliants called alphahydroxy acids are derived largely from fruits. 14. If a client does not first use an alphahydroxy product at home for two weeks, an alphahydroxy exfoliation in the salon may cause discomfort. 15. Nourishing crèmes, also called treatment creams, are designed for use during the night. 16. Moisturizers contain an ingredient that helps the skin retain water. 17. One feature of facial masks is that they provide complete closure to the environment. 18. Paraffin masks have no treatment properties. 19. Clay masks stimulate circulation, temporarily contract the pores, and are ready to use. 20. A type of facial mask that botrhs warms up and cools down on the skin is the modelage mask. 21. Masks containing sulphur have a beneficial effect in reducing sebum production. 22. To keep paraffin and gypsum/plaster masks from sticking to the skin, you may use gauze. 23. Highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base in single doses are contained in ampules. 24. Facials may not be given to clients with acne. 25. The massage movement called effleurage is applied in a light, slow, rhythmic manner without pressure. 26. The portion of the muscle at the fixed attachment to an immovable section of the skeleton is the origin. 27. The massage movement called petrissage consists largely of kneading. 28. Because massage increases circulation, it should not be performed on clients with high blood pressure. 29. The cosmetologist is not licensed to massage such areas as the leg above the knee. 30. Friction in massage requires the use of deep, rubbing movements. 31. Mastering massage techniques requires knowledge in anatomy and physiology.

10 32. Deeper stimulation of the muscles, nerves, and skin glands is produced by petrissage. 33. The massage movement called tapotement, or percussion, is a tapping movement. 34. Friction movements include chucking, rolling, and wringing. 35. You can cause contraction of a muscle if you apply pressure or stimulation to a point on the skin over the muscle, called a motor point. 36. To relax a client early in the massage treatment, perform a few manipulations on the proper motor points. 37. A weekly massage is recommended to keep normal skin in optimal condition. 38. A kneading movement used mainly on the arms is fulling A type of percussion movement performed only on the back, shoulders, and arms is Hacking. 40. Of the various massage manipulations, tapotement, or percussion, is the most stimulating. 41. You should begin and end massage with effleurage. 42. In a plain facial, removing make-up follows the client consultation. 43. Two electrodes, one negative and one positive, are required by all modalities used in the salon except for high frequency. 44. An electrode is an applicator for directing electric current to the skin from a machine. 45. A positive electrode can be distinguished from a negative electrode by the fact that it is marked with a P or plus sign. 46. When galvanic current is used, the electrode that is not used on the client s face is the positive electrode. 47. Grease deposits and blackheads are softened and emulsified in the follicles by a process called desincrustation. 48. One electric current used during a facial to tone the facial muscles is the faradic current. 49. Acne-prone skin can benefit from the application of high-frequency current. 50. A notable feature of the high frequency current is that as the air around the glass facial electrode vibrates, it emits violet sparks. 51. In direct surface application of high frequency current, when applying and removing the electrode from the skin, hold your finger on the electrode. 52. In indirect high frequency application, the client holds the electrode while the cosmetologist massages the face. 53. The application of light rays to the skin to treat disorders is known as light therapy. 54. Ultraviolet light produces vitamin D in the skin. 55. The application of infrared light dilates blood vessels and increases circulation. 56. The two basic types of facials are corrective and preservative. 57. It is best to remove facial products from containers with a spatula. 58. When draping for a facial, one towel is placed on the back of the facial bed and one is placed across the client s chest. 59. Optional steps in a facial are exfoliation and eyebrow arching, which would be performed after the cleanser is removed from the face. 60. When using infrared rays or any other light therapy, cover the client s eyes with eye pads. 61. In a facial for oily skin, after removing blackheads, apply astringent. 62. When you have started facial manipulations on a client, use feather-like movements if you need to remove your hands. 63. The last product to be applied in a basic facial is usually moisturizer or sunscreen.

11 64. The cosmetologist s role is to work closely with the client s physician if the client has acne. 65. Massage movements, when properly and skillfully applied; benefit the skin by increasing circulation. 66. To make sure a facial service is relaxing for the client, make sure your hands are warm and smooth. 67. You are likely to make your clients unhappy with your facial service if you run out of products. 68. The therapeutic use of essential oils is called aromatherapy. 69. In a facial for oily skin, when you remove blackheads from the skin, press from under the follicle. 70. When applying faradic or sinusoidal current, the insertion of the muscle is where you place the cathode. 71. The usually tinted cosmetic applied as a base before make-up is foundation. 72. A type of foundation that is moist when applied but dries to a powdery finish is cream-topowder foundation. 73. Concealer that comes in a small pot provides the most coverage. 74. Face powder is used to set the foundation. 75. Face powder that is translucent is colorless. 76. Cheek color is also called blush, blusher, or rouge. 77. Using a lip brush, apply lip color beginning at the outer corner of the upper lip. 78. A cosmetic that helps keep lip color from feathering is lip liner. 79. Generally, you should avoid matching eye shadow to eye color. 80. Eye shadow that is a contour color is used to minimize a specific area. 81. In makeup application, you use eyeliner to make the eyes appear larger. 82. Pressed powder eye shadow may be used with an eyeliner brush to create a softer lined effect. 83. When choosing an eyebrow color for your client, avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color. 84. A cosmetic used to define, darken and thicken the eyelashes is called mascara. 85. You may use an angle brush to apply eyebrow shadow. 86. Cool colors include blue-reds. 87. When you choose makeup colors for a client, you must consider skin color, eye color and hair color. 88. Eye makeup colors that are orange based are recommended for blue eyes. 89. To ensure a balanced look when applying makeup, avoid mixing warm and cool colors. 90. The first step in a professional make-up is client consultation. 91. Before applying foundation to the entire face, you can test the color on the client s jawline. 92. In a makeup application, the lipcolor is applied last. 93. A basic rule of makeup application is that a lighter shade of foundation emphasizes a facial area. 94. The oval face is the artistically ideal face shape. 95. An inverted triangle-shaped face is characterized by a narrow jawline and a wide forehead.

12 96. Darker foundation on the nose and lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose is corrective makeup for a broad nose. 97. Wide-set eyes can be made to appear closer together if you extend the eyebrow lines to inside corners of the eyes. 98. Sallow skin can be corrected with a foundation that is pink. 99. Band lashes are eyelash hairs that are attached to a strip. 100.Attaching individual artificial eyelashes to a client s own eyelashes is called eye tabbing. Completed 2007

13 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE HAIRCOLOR THEORY 1. A pure or fundamental color that cannot be achieved from a mixture is called primary colors. 2. A tertiary color is achieved by mixing equal amounts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color. 3. A primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary colors. 4. A secondary color is obtained by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors. 5. Red, yellow, and blue are considered primary colors. 6. The darkest primary color is blue. 7. The secondary colors are orange, violet and green. 8. The equal combination of yellow and blue creates green. 9. A complementary color combination is red and green. 10. Blue-green and red-violet are tertiary colors. 11. Fine-textured hair takes color faster. 12. The hair texture likely to take longer to process is coarse hair. 13. Hair that is resistant and requires a longer processing time usually has low porosity. 14. Hair with high porosity has a lifted cuticle. 15. If you test the hair between your fingers and it feels smooth, it has low porosity. 16. The underlying color that emerges during lightening is known as contributing pigment. 17. The type of melanin that gives the hair black and brown color is eumelanin. 18. Level is used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. 19. Intensity describes the strength of a color tone. 20. A base color is the predominant tonality of a color. 21. The warmth or coolness of a color is known as its tone. 22. Hair lightening is also called bleaching or decolorizing. 23. Haircolors are divided into four general classifications based on their chemistry, which, in turn, affects the final color result and lasting ability. 24. Raising the cuticle of the hair so that the tint can penetrate is the function of the alkalizing ingredient. 25. The function of hydrogen peroxide in haircolor is to break up the melanin. 26. Temporary haircolor makes a physical change. 27. The pigment molecules of semipermanent haircolor are smaller that permanent color molecules are smaller than temporary molecules. 28. The haircolor category that is considered semipermanent requires a patch test. 29. Demiperment haircolor deposits color but does not lift color. 30. In recent years, demipermanent haircolor has been used exclusively on the midshaft to ends. 31. The only haircolor that has a lifting action on the hair is permanent. 32. Permanent haircolors are considered permanent because the tint molecules are trapped in the cuticle. 33. Permanent haircolors contain uncolored dye precursors known as aniline derivatives.

14 34. The agent that, when mixed with an oxidative haircolor, supplies the oxygen to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color is the developer. 35. The most commonly used oxidizer in haircoloring is hydrogen peroxide. 36. Developers have a ph between 2.5 and The hydrogen peroxide used to provide maximum lift in a one-step color service is 40 volume. 38. Henna is a type of natural haircolor. 39. Gradual colors, historically marketed to men, are also called: metallic haircolors. 40. Lighteners work by dispersing melanin. 41. As soon as hydrogen peroxide is mixed into a lightener formula, it begins to release oxygen. 42. Toners are used primarily on prelightened hair. 43. When you decolorize a client s hair, your goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment. 44. The hair should never be lifted with lightener past pale yellow. 45. The most critical part of the color service is the consultation. 46. A client consultation for haircoloring should include: stating the cost of service. 47. A release statement is used mainly to explain if hair is in proper condition to receive color. 48. A predisposition test is performed to determine allergy to aniline. 49. A preliminary strand test should be performed in the lower crown. 50. Once a temporary color rinse has been applied style as desired. 51. How well semipermanent colors take depends on the hair s porosity. 52. Semipermanent and demipermanent haircolor have similar application procedure. 53. The depositing color follows the lightener application in a double-process color application. 54. Body heat causes hair at the scalp to process color faster. 55. Lines of demarcation would be created if you overlap previous colored or lightened hair. 56. During a retouch procedure if color is faded on hair ends a demipermanent color may be applied on the faded hair ends. 57. To lift one or two levels an oil lightener is used. 58. Dry crystals known as activators can be mixed with cream lighteners. 59. Off the scalp lighteners come in powder form. 60. With retouch services, powder lighteners should not be used. 61. The more melanin hair has the longer it takes to lighten. 62. Hair can become softer and more fragile when heat is used along with lightening chemicals. 63. Increasing the processing time can be done if a preliminary strand test for lightening indicates the hair is not light enough /8 partings should be used for applying lightener. 65. Blotting the strand with a damp towel should be done in a lightening procedure when you check a strand for lightening. 66. Achieving the proper foundation must be done before using a toner. 67. There are 10 degrees of decolorizing. 68. Breakage may occur when a lightener is applied and it overlaps previously lightened hair. 69. At the end of a toner if you use conditioner on the hair it lowers the ph.

15 70. Highlighting is known as coloring some hair strands lighter than the natural color. 71. The technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color is known as lowlighting. 72. With the cap technique the number of strands pulled through determines the degree of highlighting or lowlighting you can achieve. 73. The clients scalp condition should be included on a completed haircolor record. 74. The balayage technique is known as painting a lightener directly onto clean, styled hair. 75. A haircolor with a blue base can be used if a client has unwanted orange tones. 76. To open the cuticle presoftening can be performed on gray or resistant hair. 77. To deposit a base color and equalize porosity fillers are used. 78. Weaving or slicing can be done in the foil technique of lightening. 79. If the haircolor is too dark tint removal may be performed. 80. A filler may be used when performing a tint back. 81. Leftover tint should be discarded after a tint has been mixed and used. 82. Choosing a color that is 1 level lighter is best when formulating permanent color for hair that is percent gray. 83. Replacing the hair s missing primary color is the goal when selecting a color filler. 84. Identifying the actual color of brassiness is the first step in properly camouflaging excessive brassiness. 85. Using shampoo with tint is known as a soap cap. 86. A combination of hydrogen peroxide and shampoo is known as a highlighting shampoo. 87. Presoftening and tinting is an example of a double-process color application. 88. A sign that hair is overly porous would be identified by a gun-metal gray shade. 89. A demipermanent color is sometimes used as a glaze to give the hair shine and tone. 90. Dimensional haircoloring is also known as a highlighting service. 91. Consider using a highlighting shampoo tint when a very slight change in hair shade is desired or when the client s hair processes very rapidly. Completed 2/2007

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17 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE HAIRCUTTING THEORY 1. Design lines that are proportionate are made by using reference points in a haircut. 2. The apex is the highest point on the top of the head. 3. The parietal ridge is also known as the crest area & is the widest area of the head. 4. The occipital bone is the bone that protrudes at the base of the skull. 5. The widest points in the fringe (bangs) area are represented by the two front corners. 6. The crown is the area between the back of the parietal ridge and the apex. 7. When falling into natural falling position, the fringe (bangs) area, falls no farther than the outer corners of the eyes. 7. By parting the hair at the parietal ridge you can locate the top of the head. 8. Horizontal lines are straight lines that are parallel to the floor, or horizon. 9. Beveling is the technique in which the ends of the hair are cut at a slight taper, using diagonal lines. 10. The sections are uniform working areas into which the hair is parted for control. 11. When cutting elevation is the angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held from the head. 12. To build weight you elevate the hair below 90 degrees. 13. To create more graduation you can elevate the hair more. 14. The guideline is the section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. 15. A stationary guideline is a guideline that does not move as the haircut progresses. 16. A traveling guideline is a guideline that moves with you as you work through the haircut. 17. The angle at which the fingers are held during cutting is known as the cutting line. 18. Overdirection is known as combing the hair away from its natural falling position toward a guideline, instead of straight out from the head. 19. You use a stationary guideline when you use overdirection to create a length or weight increase in a haircut. 20. Uniform layers create the same length throughout the haircut by using a traveling guide, with no overdirection. 21. When straight hair dries it shrinks about ¼ to ½ inch. 22. When curly hair dries it shrinks about ½ to 2 inches. 23. A growth pattern is known as the direction in which the hair grows from the scalp. 24. Analyzing the face shape before a haircut is an important part of the client consultation. 25. Growth patterns, hairlines, wave patterns, density, & texture are the five characteristics that determine the behavior of the hair. 26. The diameter of each hair strand is what hair texture is based on. 27. The amount of movement in the hair strand is how wave pattern is defined. 28. The haircutting shears are the tools used to cut straight or blunt lines in the hair. 29. The straight razor is the tool generally used when a softer effect is desired on the ends of the hair. 30. The barber comb is generally used in the shears-over-comb technique. 31. The thinning shears is the tool used mainly to remove bulk from the hair. 32. The cutting hand is generally the hand that does most of the work in haircutting. 33. The ring finger is placed in the finger grip of the still blade when holding the shears. 34. It is necessary to palm the shears when combing the hair during a haircut.

18 35. The little finger is placed in the tang when holding a razor with the handle higher than the shank. 36. Comb the subsection before cutting with the fine teeth of the styling comb. 37. Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection of hair. 38. Cutting over the fingers is the hand position used most often when cutting uniform or increasing layers. 39. Cutting palm to palm is the best way to control the subsection when cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line. 40. Before blowdrying the client s hair, sweep up cut hair and dispose of it as a good safety and sanitation measure. 41. Prior to each new client the blade in your razor should be replaced. 42. The zero elevation cut is also known as the blunt haircut. 43. Using a 45 degree elevation is most common in the graduated haircut. 44. Use a 180-degree angle in a long layered haircut. 45. The ends of the hair appear farther apart in a layered haircut. 46. You will get uneven results when cutting hair that is partly damp and partly dry. 47. Cross-check a haircut by parting the hair in the opposite way from which you cut it. 48. If in a haircut you use horizontal partings, you should cross-check the lengths with vertical partings. 49. A slight graduation of the line will result when tilting the client s head forward while cutting a blunt haircut. 50. A diagonal cutting line is used with a classic A-line bob haircut. 51. When all the hair is cut at the same length you are creating a uniform-layered haircut. 52. Curly hair shrinks more after it dries compared to straight hair. 53. A razor is a tool you should avoid when cutting curly hair. 54. The area between the outer corners of the eyes is known as the fringe area. 57. The hair ends are cut at an angle when cutting the hair with a razor; this generally gives a softer appearance to the hair. 55. The guide is above the fingers in razor cutting compared to cutting with shears. 56. You should not use a razor on dry hair. 57. Slide cutting is the method of cutting hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length. 58. Free-hand notching is when you snip out pieces of hair at random intervals with the tips of the shears. 59. Shears-over-comb is a barbering technique that has crossed over into cosmetology. 60. The comb is held at an angle to the head when using the shears-over-comb technique. 61. Work with areas no wider than the blade when using the shears-over-comb technique. 62. One blade stays still in the shears-over-comb technique. 63. Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length. 64. Razor rotation is a texturizing technique similar to razor-over-comb. 65. Removing weight is a more modern term for thinning. 66. The length guard attachment, allows you to cut all the hair evenly to one exact length and is among the tools to have on hand when clipper cutting. 67. Using clippers is the best way to create a flat top or square shape close to the scalp. 68. The clipper moves sideways across the comb in the clipper-over-comb technique.

19 69. Always work against the natural growth patterns, especially in the nape, when cutting with clippers. 70. Edgers are smaller-sized, cordless clippers used mainly to clean around the ears and neckline. 71. The barber comb allows you to cut the hair very short and close to the head and is the best comb to use with clippers. 72. The hair on the face is very coarse. Completed

20 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE HAIRSTYLING THEORY 1. Using fingers, combs, and waving lotion to shape and direct the hair into S-shaped waves is called finger waving. 2. The product used to keep the hair in place during the finger waving procedure is waving lotion. 3. A good finger waving lotion does not flake when dry. 4. Applying finger waving lotion to one side of the head at a time prevents it from drying. 5. Using fingers to pinch or push ridges in a finger wave creates over direction of the ridge. 6. Pin curls are made of three main parts: circle, stem, and base. 7. In a pin curl, the part between the base and the first arc (turn) of the circle is the stem. 8. The base of the pin curl is the section that is the foundation of the curl. 9. The pin curl stem position that produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl is the no-stem curl. 10. The full-stem curl produces the greatest mobility. 11. Before you form pin curls, you must first mold a section of hair called the shaping. 12. Uniform pin curls are produced by open center curls. 13. If a fluffy curl is desired especially for fine hair, use closed center curls. 14. The most common pin curl base you will use is the arc base. 15. In a pin curl set, the finished curl is not affected by the shape of the base. 16. Triangular pin curl bases are used to prevent splits in the finished style. 17. Pin curl bases suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift are the square base. 18. An important technique to use when making pin curls is ribboning. 19. Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are called carved curls. 20. Pin curls are correctly anchored when the clip enters at the open pen. 21. Curls used to create a wave behind a ridge are called ridge curls. 22. Two rows of ridge curls create a strong wave pattern. 23. Pin curls used to achieve height in the hair design are cascade curls. 24. Barrel curls are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base. 25. A roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls. 26. Rollers are different from pin curls in several ways, one way being that they give a stronger set. 27. The panel of hair on which the roller is placed is called the base. 28. The hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller is the stem. 29. The part of a roller curl that determines the size of the wave or curl is the circle or curl. 30. If hair is wound 1-1/2 turns around a roller, it will create a wave. 31. A C shape will result if the hair is wound around the roller one turn. 32. The volume achieved in a hairstyle is determined by the size of the roller and how it sits on its base. 33. An on-base roller curl produces full volume. 34. For the least amount of volume in a roller set, use the off-base method. 35. A loose roller that is not properly secured to the head will result in a weak set.

21 36. Hot rollers and Velcro rollers are used only on dry hair. 37. Back-combing and back-brushing are used to remove roller indentations. 38. Teasing, ratting, matting, and French lacing are other terms for back-combing. 39. Ruffing is another name for back-brushing. 40. A technique used to keep curly or extremely curly hair smooth and straight is hair wrapping. 41. The part of a blow-dryer that directs the air stream to a section of the hair is the concentrator. 42. The diffuser attachment of a blow-dryer causes the air to flow more softly. 43. It is particularly important that the air intake at the back of a blow-dryer be kept clear. 44. Combs with closely spaced teeth create a smooth surface. 45. A classic styling brush has a half-rounded rubber base. 46. The generally oval brush with natural bristles or quills of bristle and nylon mix is the grooming brush. 47. Smaller round brushes used during blow-drying add more curl. 48. A light, airy, whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam is mousse. 49. The most widely used hairstyling product is hair spray. 50. A hairstyling product that adds considerable weight to the hair is pomade or wax. 51. Guidelines for blow-drying the hair include directing the blow-dryer from scalp to ends. 52. Creating an up do can be difficult on hair that has been freshly washed. 53. Another term for thermal waving is marcel waving. 54. Thermal waving and curling are done on dry hair. 55. To hold an even temperature, thermal irons should be made of the best quality steel. 56. A conventional thermal iron is stove-heated. 57. Electric vaporizing irons shouldn t be used on pressed hair because the hair will return to its natural curly state. 58. For white, lightened, or tinted hair, it is advisable to use thermal irons. 59. The styling portion of a thermal iron consists of a rod and shell. 60. The required temperature of heated thermal irons depends on the texture of the hair. 61. The temperature of heated thermal irons is tested on a piece of tissue paper. 62. A thermal comb should be made of hard rubber. 63. When manipulating thermal irons, the rolling movement should be done with the fingers. 64. To give a finished appearance to hair ends, use end curls. 65. A thermal-curling method of winding a strand around the rod to create hanging curls is called spiral curls. 66. Volume thermal iron curls are used to provide a finished hairstyle with lift. 67. A volume-base thermal curl is formed by placing the curl forward and high on its base. 68. Full-base thermal curls provide a strong curl with full volume. 69. In half-base curls the hair is held at a 90-degree angle. 70. The thermal curl that offers the least lift or volume is the off-base curl. 71. To ensure a good thermal curl or wave, the hair must be clean. 72. In thermal curling or waving, fishhook hair ends are caused when the hair ends protrude from the irons. 73. Hair pressing temporarily straightens hair. 74. Hair straightening, or pressing, is a popular service that lasts until the next shampoo. 75. Types of hair pressing are the soft, press, hard press and medium press.

22 76. The type of hair pressing that removes 50% to 60% of the curl is the soft press. 77. The temperature of the pressing comb should be adjusted to the hair s texture. 78. The least difficult type of hair to press is medium curly hair. 79. The type of hair that requires the least heat and pressure with a pressing comb is fine. 80. Applying a heated pressing comb twice on each side of the hair is known as a hard press. 81. Burnt hair strands cannot be conditioned. 82. In pressing coarse hair, more heat is required because it has the greatest diameter. 83. To avoid breakage when pressing fine hair, you should use less heat and pressure. 84. The use of excess heat on gray, tinted or lightened hair may discolor the hair. 85. Failure to correct dry and brittle hair before thermal straightening may result in hair breakage. 86. To avoid smoke or burning while pressing hair, use less pressing oil. 87. A hard press in which a hot curling iron is passed through the hair first is called a double press. 88. Hair pressing treatments between shampoos are called touch-ups. 89. Hair that is wiry and curly is difficult to press. 90. Before performing a hair press, the hair should be divided into four sections. 91. A scalp may be classified as normal, flexible, or tight. 92. Applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair is required for a soft press. 93. Pressing combs should be constructed of good-quality steel or brass. 94. The actual pressing or straightening of the hair is accomplished with the comb s back rod. 95. Pressing oil may be applied either before or after the hair is thoroughly dried. 96. The hair and scalp may be conditioned with special hair products, hair brushing and scalp massage. 97. The metal portion of a pressing comb may be immersed in a solution of hot baking soda for 1 hour to give it a smooth and shiny appearance. 98. Too frequent hair pressing treatments can cause breaking and shortening of the hair. 99. Carbon may be removed from the pressing comb by rubbing with fine sandpaper Do not use high heat when pressing short hair at the temples and back of the neck. Completed 2/7/07 Dan Ratcliff

23 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE HISTOLOGY OF THE SKIN 1. Dermatology is known as the study of the skin and its treatment, nature, diseases, structure and functions. 2. An esthetician is a specialist in the beautification, cleansing, and preservation of health of the skin and body. 3. There is a slight acidity to healthy skin. 4. The eyelids have the thinnest skin. 5. The soles and palms have the thickest skin on the body. 6. The epidermis is known as the protective outer layer of the skin. 7. Blood vessels are not located in the epidermis. 8. The dermis contains the oil and sweat glands, the nerves, papillae, and the hair follicles. 9. Scale like cells made up of keratin are located in the stratum corneum. 10. The stratum corneum is the layer of the epidermis that is continually being shed and replaced. 11. The horny layer of the skin is known as the stratum corneum. 12. The stratum germinativum is where the growth of the epidermis begins. 13. Located in the stratum germinativum is melanin, which protects sensitive cells from the destructive effects of excessive UV rays. 14. Found in the true skin are the papillary and reticular layers. 15. At the bottom of the hair follicle is where the small cone-shaped elevation known as papillae are located. 16. The reticular layer of the dermis supplies the skin with oxygen. 17. A fatty layer of the skin is known as subcutaneous tissue. 18. Lymph and blood is what nourishes the skin. 19. Cold temperature causes the sensory nerve fibers in the skin to react. 20. Goose bumps are caused by the motor nerve fibers of the skin. 21. Elastin and collagen is what gives the skin its flexibility, strength, and form. 22. Even after being repeatedly stretched, skin regains its shape from the help of elastin, which is a protein fiber. 23. The body s temperature is regulated by the sudoriferous. 24. Except for the soles and palms, sebaceous glands are found in all parts of the body. 25. Sweat pores are the small openings of the sweat glands. 26. The nervous system controls the excretion of sweat from the skin. 27. Numerous sudoriferous glands are found particularly in armpits, soles, forehead, and the palms. 28. Oil is secreted by sebaceous glands. 29. The hair follicle is where the duct of the sebaceous gland opens into. 30. Sebum s function is to lubricate the skin. 31. A 98.6 degree Fahrenheit temperature is maintained by the sweat glands of the skin and blood regulating the body heat. 32. The sun s rays cause 80 to 85% of the skin s aging. 33. The weakening of the elastin and collagen fibers in the skin tissue cause sagging and wrinkles. 34. UVA rays also known as the aging rays are the ultraviolet rays of the sun. 35. UVB rays also known as the burning rays can damage the eyes and skin.

24 36. Between the hours of 10 A.M. and 3 P.M. is when ultraviolet exposure is the highest. 37. By affecting the melanocytes, UVB rays cause tanning of the skin. 38. Weakening and contraction of the blood vessels is caused by the nicotine in tobacco. 39. Blood vessels overdilate with an excessive intake of alcohol. 40. You should refer a client to a physician if they have an inflamed skin disorder that is not infectious 41. A primary skin lesion is a papule. 42. Pustules is where pus is most likely to be found. 43. Vesicles is what poison ivy and poison oak produce. 44. Fissures are the skin lesions found in chapped hands and lips. 45. A cyst is an abnormally developed, closed sac containing morbid matter, semifluid, or fluid. 46. A cicatrix may develop after an injury heals. 47. A tumor is known as an abnormal cell mass. 48. A crust is likely to cover a blemish or wound before it has healed completely. 49. Scale is what dandruff is an example of. 50. The technical term for blackhead is comedone. 51. The technical name Milia is also known as whiteheads. 52. Milaria rubra is a not included as one of the sebaceous gland disorders. 53. Acne vulgaris is one of the technical names for acne or common pimples. 54. Dilation of blood vessels, a chronic congestion of nose and cheeks, is a characteristic of Rosacea. 55. Dry skin is a symptom of asteatosis. 56. The appearance of oily and shiny skin occurs in seborrhea. 57. The scalp is where Steatomas usually appear. 58. Foul-smelling perspiration is known as Bromhidrosis. 59. Hyperhidrosis is known as excessive sweating. 60. Milaria rubra is a condition people can develop when exposed to excessive heat. 61. Dry or moist lesions are characteristics of Eczema, which is an inflammation of the skin. 62. Psoriasis is indicated by the presence of red patches covered with silver-white scales. 63. A recurring viral infection is known as Herpes simplex. 64. Dermatitis venenata may occur from certain chemicals found in cosmetics. 65. Freckles is known as lentigines. 66. An absence of melanin is a characteristic of albinism. 67. Chloasma is the technical term for liver spots. 68. Leukoderma is a skin disorder that is also known as albinism and vitiligo. 69. A stain occurs during aging or after certain diseases and is an abnormal skin discoloration. 70. Nevus is the technical name for a birthmark. 71. A keratoma may be formed with continued friction and pressure on the hands and feet. 72. The technical term for a skin tag is hypertrophy, this occurs most often on the neck of an older person. 73. The verruca is a hypertrophy that is infectious and caused by a virus. 74. A basal cell carcinoma is the least severe and most commom type of skin cancer. 75. Malignant melanoma is characterized by dark brown or black patches on the skin that may be textured, jagged, uneven, or raised. 76. Squamous cell carcinoma is a skin cancer characterized by nodules or scaly red papules. 77. Vitamin C is the vitamin that promotes the production of collagen in the skin. 78. The topical form of vitamin A is known as Retin-A or Retinoic acid. 79. To protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun s rays use vitamin E and vitamin A together

25 to 70 percent of the body s weight is composed of water. COMPLETED 6/15/07 AVEDA INSTITUTE SAN ANTONIO STUDY GUIDE INFECTION CONTROL PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICES 1. Bacteria are a one-celled microorganism with both plant and animal characteristics. 2. A parasite is a type of pathogenic bacteria. 3. Pathogenic is a term used to refer to harmful bacteria. 4. Disease is produced by pathogenic bacteria. 5. Saprophytes are a type of bacteria that lives on dead matter. 6. Spirilla are what cause Syphilis and Lyme disease. 7. Bacteria with a round shape are called cocci. 8. Bacteria with a rod shape are called bacilli. 9. Streptococci are bacteria arranged like a string of beads that cause strep throat and blood poisoning. 10. Bacteria with a corkscrew shape are called spirilla. 11. Mycobacterium fortuitum furunculosis is the bacteria that caused concern in 2000 in the pedicure industry. 12. Cocci are the bacteria that rarely show active motility, or self-movement. 13. Flagella are the slender, hair like extensions with which certain bacteria move about. 14. Mitosis is the process where bacteria cells reproduce by simply dividing into two new cells. 15. Certain bacteria, such as anthrax and tetanus bacilli form spores during their inactive stage. 16. When a disease is transmitted from one person to another it is known as a communicable disease. 17. Syphilis is a general infection that affects the whole body. 18. Pus is an indication of infection. 19. Measles and hepatitis are caused by a virus. 20. Bacteria can live on their own, unlike viruses. 21. A disease marked by inflammation of the liver is known as hepatitis. 22. The immune system is broken down in the body with Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS). 23. The HIV virus is what causes AIDS. 24. Sharp implements can transmit the HIV virus. 25. Broken skin is where bacteria and viruses can enter the body through. 26. Fungi come in mold, mildew, and yeast form. 27. Refer clients with a contagious disease and condition to a physician when in a cosmetology school or salon. 28. Immunity is when you have resistance to an infection. 29. Items are contaminated when the surfaces of them are not free from dirt, microbes, and oils.