our make-up delivery systems

our make-up delivery systems

the modern challenges of make-up Due to the developments in pigments and polymers technology, make-up formulations have reached a stage close to perfection. Every shade of color and type of gloss can be attained, and a wide range of cosmetic properties - from «long lasting» to «easy wear» is achievable. Make-up products can easily be adapted to the ever-changing trends in fashion and consumer demands. They can be personalized and formulated to fit each individual woman s lifestyle and daily needs. The product becomes multipurpose, practical, easy and quick to apply. Consequently, today s make-up users expect more than finely tuned colors and customized wear- and skin feel properties. They expect innovation. It is time for make-up to enter a new dimension, and to go from pure decoration to genuine treatment, by incorporation of active ingredients. Until now, introduction of water-soluble actives in make-up was strictly limited to emulsions. They could not be introduced in anhydrous formulations because of raw material incompatibilities or restrictions due to the manufacturing process. A breakthrough has now been made possible by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques. We have developed the innovative technology of Active Powders, enabling the incorporation of water-soluble actives in anhydrous make-up formulations, and broadening the range of «care» claims that can be made with color products. Active Powders are more than a technological innovation, they open up a new philosophy in make-up. In addition to concealing imperfections, or improving skin complexion through optical effects of color additives, the skin can be treated on the long term thanks to our Active Powders technology, which allows a controlled release of the active ingredient into the skin. The consumer no longer has to choose between a day cream that provides treatment and a make-up for decorative purposes. She can have both at the same time. The incorporation of the active does not interfere with the formulation of the pigments. Finally a technology for anhydrous make-up products that makes it possible to combine seduction with care definition Active Powders is a patented technology allowing the incorporation of water-soluble actives in anhydrous formulations. Active Powders contains up to 70% of hydrophilic particles (20-40 µm) protected by a hydrophobic polymer. Each particle contains up to 90% of an aqueous solution of an active. Maximum load of active ingredient in the Active Powders: 63%. application Active Powders technology can be used to incorporate water-soluble active ingredients in all kinds of anhydrous formulations: - powders: loose or pressed powders, - stick formulations: lipsticks or make-up sticks, concealers, - foundations: compact make-up (hot poured formulations). Characteristics Aspect: white powder with a light creamy feel. Size: 20 to 40 µm. The range of Active Powders comprises 5 products (see table hereafter). benefits Allows the incorporation of water-soluble actives in anhydrous make-up systems. Introduces a significant amount of water phase in anhydrous formulation. Improves the bioavailability of the pre-solubilized ingredient by spontaneous diffusion into the skin. Brings activity to make-up products: combining skin care and color cosmetics. efficacy In efficacy studies, Active Powders technology has been demonstrated to: - release water soluble active ingredients into the skin, - bring efficacy to hot-poured make-up formulation, - withstand high-pressure when introduced in pressed powders.

Time release study (histological evaluation) Aim To demonstrate the bioavailability of a 0.1% water solution of FITC (fluorescein isothiocyanate) in comparison to 0.1% FITC encapsulated in Active Powders, by comparing skin penetration in skin sections (histological evaluation). Protocol Biopsies at: - 30 min - 60 min - 120 min Human skin obtained from surgery Preparation of organotypic culture of human skin Incubation at 37 C, 5% of CO 2 in DMEM Control FITC* at 0.1% 0.1% FITC* in Active Powders Schema of protocol Freezing Freezing microtome (skin sections at 20 µm) Microscopic observation of fluorescence * FITC = Fluorescein Isothiocyanate Results FITC at 0.1% 30 minutes 60 minutes 120 minutes Demonstration of vectorisation by histology Control 0.1% FITC in Active Powders Conclusion Active Powders demonstrates its capability to release the incorporated FITC into the skin by diffusion without any rubbing action. The FITC in water solution has a penetration limited at the horny layers. Active Powders can be considered has a powerful technology to spontaneously release water-soluble active ingredients and to improve their penetration. Improvement of skin firmness (clinical study) Aim To demonstrate the improvement of the skin firmness when treated with a compact make-up containing 5% of Active Powder Firmness, versus a compact make-up placebo. Protocol Randomized double blind clinical study on 15 female volunteers, between 50 and 65 years old, having a loss of skin firmness on the internal side of the forearms. Treatment for 6 weeks, twice daily application (morning and beginning of the afternoon) of: - a compact make-up placebo on the forearm, - a compact make-up containing 5% of Active Powder Firmness the other forearm. Measurement of the skin firmness of the 2 forearms, using the dermofirmometer, before and after the 6 weeks of treatment. Results Active Powder Firmness Results after 6 weeks of treatment Conclusion Incorporated at 5% in an hot poured compact make-up, Active Powder Firmness demonstrated its ability to improve the skin firmness by 20% in comparison to the placebo formulation. When introduced in anhydrous formulations, Active Powders technology allows the release of the active ingredient in the skin. The bioactivity of the active ingredient is preserved during the formulation process.

Colorimetric study on pressed powders Aim To check the compatibility of the Active Powders technology with compacting. We have compared in vivo the release into the skin of a water soluble blue dye, incorporated at 1% in Active Powders, when introduced in a loose powder or in a pressed powder (80 or -bar pressure). Protocol Application on the forearm of powders (loose, pressed) containing 5% or 10% of Active Powders FDC blue 1. Colorimetric measurement (b*parameter) at 0, 30 min., 60 min. after application of the powders to evaluate the decrease of the coloration. Standard skin Loose powder Pressed powder 5% 10% Schema of protocol 80 80 Results Evolution of the blue color (A.U.) 105 Evolution of the blue color (A.U.) 105 95 90 95 90 Diffusion of FDC blue 1 dye in a pressed or loose powder 85 0 30 60 Time (minutes) (A.U.) = Arbitrary Unit Standard skin Loose powder containing 5% Active Powders FDC blue 1 Pressed powder containing 5% Active Powders FDC blue 1-80 Pressed powder containing 5% Active Powders FDC blue 1-85 0 30 60 Time (minutes) Standard skin Loose powder containing 10% Active Powders FDC blue 1 Pressed powder containing 10% Active Powders FDC blue 1-80 Pressed powder containing 10% Active Powders FDC blue 1 - Conclusion The release of the FDC blue 1, incorporated in the Active Powders is similar for the loose and pressed powder. The pressure (80 or ) used to produce the pressed powders does not affect the release of the FDC blue 1 encapsulated in the Active Powders. The ability of Active Powders to withstand high-pressure processes is confirmed.

product range Product name Main origin Benefits INCI name Use level Active Powder Moist LS 9696 Moisturizing Softness Improvement of the skin complexion Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Glycerin (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Titanium Dioxyde (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide (and) Gellan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3-7 % Active Powder Firmness LS 9689 Anti-age Improvement of the skin firmness Anti-plasmin / Anti-elastase Improvement of sensorial benefits Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Pisum Sativum (pea) Extract (and) Titanium Dioxyde (and) Algae Extract (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4-7 % Active Powder Purity LS 9695 Sebum regulation Matifying Inhibition of lipogenesis Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Niacinamide (and) Yeast Extract (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Algae Extract (and) Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (and) Panthenol (and) Zinc Gluconate (and) Caffeine (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Biotin 5-7 % Active Powder Whiteness LS 9724 Skin lightening Regulation of pigmentation Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Sodium Gluconate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Algae Extract (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract (and) Ferulic Acid (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2-5 % Active Powder Volu Lips LS 9773 3D effect: improvement of the volume and contour of the lips Stimulation of collagen, elastin and GAGs synthesis Moisturization Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Glycerin (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract (and) Algae Extract (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed (and) Polysaccharide (and) Gellan Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Polylglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3-7 % botanical synthetic biotechnological Formul ation For detailed information on formulations check our web-site www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

3, rue de Seichamps - BP 40-54425 PULNOY - FRANCE Phone: +33.3.83.29.97.92 - Fax: +33.3.83.29.98.65 www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com e-mail contact: customer-service.ls@cognis.com 9999-801-173 (2005)