SILSOFT Silk * conditioning agent SPECIALTY FLUIDS - PERSONAL CARE Marketing Bulletin INCI Designation: Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Deceth-7 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Dipropylene Glycol Nearly everyone desires touchable, smooth and easy-to-manage hair. Now, it s possible with the help of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent. Silsoft Silk conditioning agent can help deliver outstanding softness to damaged thick or wavy hair without leaving it heavy, limp, greasy or with excess residue. This technology was developed as a lightweight conditioning additive (especially for shampoos) and provides easy formulation and dilution stability. Silsoft Silk conditioning agent s high actives level and quat density can make it more efficient than other conditioning polymers. It is a versatile candidate to consider for a broad range of hair care applications. Key Features and Typical Benefits Unique dry sensory/softness not sticky or greasy Shine without greasiness Superior wet hair conditioning and feel ideal choice for wavy or curly thick hair Excellent choice to consider in clear shampoos; no discoloration (yellowing) over time Deposits more efficiently than other conditioning agents Produced without the use of paraben or MIT Typical Physical Properties Potential Applications Hair Care Products for coarse, wavy or curly hair: Leave-on conditioner Shampoo Rinse-off conditioner Serum Pre-treatment for hair dying Shine spray Ethnic hair care Other Applications Body wash Liquid hand soap Bar soap Solids Content, % 36 Appearance Clear to slightly hazy liquid Viscosity at 25 C, cps 5, Emulsifier Non-ionic ph Range 7-9 Typical properties are average data and are not to be used as or to develop specifications.
Chemistry Generic structure of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent Figure 1: AMO: Amodimethicone SQ: Commercially available silicone quat QUAT or POLYETHER SILICONE HAIR Linear structures are favored for their sensory benefits. The cationic quaternary ammonium is substantive to keratinaceous substrates, such as hair, forming a soft, flexible film with no build-up. The silicone aligns itself along the hair shaft to help provide a smooth, healthy-looking shine and a dry, soft, silky feel to hair. Performance Data: SHAMPOO Wet and Dry Combing Force Reducing damage to the hair shaft during combing is important to maintain the appearance of smooth, healthy-looking hair that shines. The conditioning benefits of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent were evaluated by formulating into the shampoo formulation described below and compared against amodimethicone and a commercially-available silicone quat. Dry and wet combing were determined using damaged Asian hair tresses with a Diastron combing instrument in a humiditycontrolled chamber at 5 percent RH. Reduction of wet combing work was calculated with respect to the wet combing work of the baseline tresses, washed with shampoo bases that do not contain silicones. Reduction of dry combing work was compared to dry combing work of the tress before treatment. Reduction of combing work was also compared to commercial benchmark shampoos. The higher reduction of combing work correlated with a remarkable soft feel of the hair. Clear Shampoo Formula without Deposition Aid (Figure 1) Trade Name Chemical Name/INCI Name % Jeelate ES-2 Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 27.5% active 32.7 Amphosol HCA Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 3.35% active 1 Genapol PEG-15 Polyglyceryl-2 Tristearate, LT Laureth-3. Dipropylene Glycol, 3% active 3.3 Silicone Active 1 Water q.s. 1 Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Momentive makes no representation or warranty of any kind with respect to any such formulations, including, without limitation, concerning the effi cacy or safety of any product manufactured using such formulations. Hair Damage Protocol Commercial bleach 1:1 powder/liquid mixture; 33 gm./4 gm. hair tress. Bleach 5 minutes. Wash with 1% SLES solution. Dry Combing Total Work Reduction (Percentage) 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Control 1% AMO 1% Silk 1% Comp. SQ Wet Combing Total Work Improvement over Control (Percentage) 6 5 4 3 2 1 1% AMO 1% Silk 1% Comp. SQ For damaged hair, Silsoft Silk conditioning agent reduced the force required during combing in comparison to other technologies. Note: Testing conducted on bleached Asian hair. Jeelate is a trademark of Jeen International Corporation Amphosol is a trademark of Stepan Corporation Genapol is a trademark of Clariant Produkte (Deutschland) GmbH Page 2 of 8
Deposition Efficiency onto Damaged Hair The deposition efficiency of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent was compared to amodimethicone and a microemulsion of a commercially-available silicone quat on damaged hair. Hair tresses were washed and silicone deposition efficiency was measured using a digestion method followed by gas chromatography. Deposition from Clear Shampoo (Weight Percentage of Hair).18.16.14.12.1.8.6.4.2 1% AMO 1% Silk 1% Comp. SQ Silsoft Silk conditioning agent deposited much more efficiently onto damaged hair than regular amodimethicone and the commercially-available silicone quat. Wet Friction Wet friction was determined using damaged hair tresses with a texture analyzer (Figure 2). Reduction of wet friction force was calculated with respect to the wet friction force before treatment. The higher reduction of wet friction force with Silsoft Silk conditioning agent was consistent with the observation that hair conditioned with it felt smoother when wet. Figure 2 Hair slides between stainless steel cylinders Contact force maintained constant by pulley system Sensory Silsoft Silk conditioning agent was formulated into a shampoo at 1 percent active and compared to a set of tresses treated with the same shampoo formulated with amodimethicone, a commercially-available silicone quat, and a control without silicone. This set of four tresses were given to each panelist and rated for smoothness on a scale from to 8. The total score was obtained by adding individual rankings. Sensory Results (Total Score) 16 14 12 1 8 6 4 2 Wet Friction Force (Gram Force) 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Control 1% AMO 1% Silk 1% Comp. SQ Silsoft Silk conditioning agent provided a greater reduction in slip on wet damaged hair compared to conventional conditioning agents and a commercially available silicone quat technology when delivered from a shampoo. Control 1% AMO 1% Silk 1% Comp. SQ Due to its enhanced efficiency, Silsoft Silk conditioning agent offered a soft, silky superior feel to dry hair. Page 3 of 8
Commercial Benchmark Comparisons The conditioning benefits of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent were evaluated on damaged hair by comparing it to commercial shampoo benchmarks, one containing dimethicone (Commercial Benchmark 1) and the other containing amodimethicone (Commercial Benchmark 2). Sensory (Total Smoothness Ranking Score) 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Commercial Commercial Silsoft Silk Benchmark 1 Benchmark 2 Dry Combing Total Work Reduction (Percentage) 7 6 5 4 3 Wet Friction Force (Gram Force) 6 5 4 3 2 2 1 Commercial Commercial Silsoft Silk Benchmark 1 Benchmark 2 1 Commercial Commercial Silsoft Silk Benchmark 1 Benchmark 2 When compared to fully-formulated commercial benchmarks, Silsoft Silk conditioning agent compared quite favorably in terms of the parameters tested. Page 4 of 8
CONDITIONER Wet and Dry Combing Force Silsoft Silk conditioning agent was incorporated into the conditioning base described below at.5 percent and compared to amodimethicone and a competitive silicone quat. Dry and wet combing were determined using damaged hair tresses with a Diastron combing instrument in a humidity controlled chamber at 5 percent RH. Reduction of wet combing work was calculated with respect to the wet combing work of the baseline tresses washed with conditioner base without silicones. The dry combing improvement was compared to the tress before treatment. The higher reduction of combing work correlated with a remarkable soft feel of the hair. Rinse-off Conditioner Formula Trade Name Chemical Name/INCI Name % Amidet APA-22 Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.2 Lactic Acid.6 Kalcol 685 Cetostearyl alcohol 4.4 Silicone Active.5 Water q.s. 1 Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Momentive makes no representation or warranty of any kind with respect to any such formulations, including, without limitation, concerning the effi cacy or safety of any product manufactured using such formulations. Hair Damage Protocol 1. Commercial bleach 1:1 powder/liquid mixture; 33 gm. / 4 gm. hair tress. Bleach 5 minutes. Wash with 1% SLES solution. 2. Peroxide solution of 6% H 2 O 2,.5% NaOH, and water. 5 ml peroxide solution/2 tresses. Repeat twice for 25 minutes each. Wash with 1% SLES solution. Dry Combing Total Work Reduction (Percentage) 6 5 Wet Combing Total Work Improvement over Control (Percentage) 35 3 25 2 15 1 5.5% AMO.5% Silk.5% Comp. SQ Silsoft Silk conditioning agent reduced tangles and therefore the work required during the combing of damaged hair in comparison to other benchmarks. Wet Friction Wet friction was determined using damaged hair tresses with a texture analyzer. Reduction of wet friction force was calculated with respect to the wet friction force before treatment. The higher reduction of wet friction force with Silsoft Silk conditioning agent showed that hair conditioned with it felt smoother when wet. Wet Friction Coefficient Reduction (Percentage) 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 Control.5% AMO.5% Silk.5% Comp. SQ Control.5% AMO.5% Silk.5% Comp. SQ Silsoft Silk conditioning agent also provided a greater reduction in slip on wet damaged hair in comparison to conventional conditioning agents and a commercially available silicone quat technology when delivered from a rinse off conditioner. Amidet is a trademark of Kao Corporation Kalcol is a trademark of Kao Kabushika TA Kao Corporation Page 5 of 8
Deposition The deposition of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent was compared to amodimethicone and a microemulsion of a commercially available silicone quat in a second evaluation on damaged Caucasian and Asian hair. Hair tresses were washed and silicone deposition efficiency was measured using a digestion method followed by gas chromatography. Rinse-off Conditioner Dry Combing 5 4 3 2 1 Deposition from Rinse-off Conditioner (Weight Percentage of Hair) Desposition Wet Friction.7.6.5.4.3.2.1.5% AMO.5% Silk.5% Comp. SQ Silsoft Silk conditioning agent offered enhanced deposition on damaged Caucasian and Asian hair. SUMMARY Shampoo Dry Combing 5 Desposition 4 3 2 1 Smoothness Amodimethicone Silicone Quat Silsoft Silk Competitive Silicone Damaged Asian Damaged EU Wet Combing Due to its charge density and concentrated format, Silsoft Silk conditioning agent showed superior performance in smoothness, deposition and detangling. It can be deposited quickly and easily from clear shampoos without the use of deposition aids. Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Momentive makes no representation or warranty of any kind with respect to any such formulations, including, without limitation, concerning the effi cacy or safety of any product manufactured using such formulations. Natrosol is a trademark of Hercules Incorporated Lanette is a trademark of Cogis IP Management GmbH Quartamin is a trademark of Kao Kabushika Kuisha Ta Kao Corporation Genamin is a trademark of Clariant Produkte (Deutchland) GmbH Germaben is a trademark of ISP Investments, Inc. Smoothness.5% Amodimethicone.5% Silicone Quat Silsoft Silk.5% Competitive Silicone When used in rinse-off conditioners, Silsoft Silk cationic conditioning agent provided a smooth silky feel to damaged hair, enhanced deposition, and lowered wet friction. Formulation Guidelines Silsoft Silk conditioning agent is a low viscosity, approximately 4 percent active silicone microemulsion that can easily be added to a formulation with low shear and low temperature. Typical use levels for it in hair care are 1 2.5 percent as the material is received. Hair Conditioner with Silsoft Silk conditioning agent for Volume and Shine Trade Name Chemical Name / INCI Name % A Water Aqua Up to 1. Natrosol 25 HHR Hydroxyethylcellulose.25 Glycerin Glycerin 2.5 Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA.5 B Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 5.5 SF 122 Cyclopentasiloxane 4. C QUARTAMIN AB Behentrimonium Chloride.8 GENAMIN CTAC 5 Cetrimonium Chloride 2. D Silsoft Silk Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth 6.5 (and) Deceth 7 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 2. (and) Dipropylene Glycol Germaben II Polypylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea,.9 Methylparaben, Propylparaben Fragrance Fragrance.3 Procedure: 1.) Mix all ingredients of part B, heat to 7 C. 2.) Heat water to 7 C, slowly add Hydroxyethylcellulose and mix until uniform, then add other ingredients of part A. 3.) Dissolve Behentrimonium Chloride in part A; add Cetrimonium Chloride. 4.) Add part B to A+C with intensive stirring, homogenize for 2 minutes (Ultra Turrax-95 rpm). 5.) Cool to 45 C with gentle stirring. Add the ingredients of phase D under stirring. 6.) Cool to room temperature. Page 6 of 8
SLES-free Shampoo for Dyed and Damaged Hair with Silsoft Silk conditioning agent Trade Name Chemical Name / INCI Name % A Water Aqua Up to 1. Elfan AT 84 (G) Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 9. Euranaat LS3 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 7. Crodasinic LS 3 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 4. B Water Aqua.5 Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA.5 C Euroglyc AMS Sodium Cocoamphoacetate 9. D Water Aqua 1. Celquat SC 24C Polyquaternium - 1.2 E Cetiol HE PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.7 Silsoft Silk Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth 6 (and) Deceth 7 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1. (and) Dipropylene Glycol Silsoft* 88 PEG-12 Dimethicone.5 PEG-15 Pentaerythryl F Crothix Liquid Tetrastearate, Aqua, PEG-6 1. Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Comperlan COD Cocamide DEA 2.5 G Crovol A 7 PEG-6 Almond Glycerides.5 Fragrance Fragrance.6 H Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride.5 Water Aqua 1.5 I Preservative q.s. Procedure: 1.) Dissolve ingredients of part A in water (phase A). 2.) Prepare the solution of Disodium EDTA in water (1:1) and add to A (B). 3.) Add Sodium Cocoamphoacetate with stirring and mix until uniform (C). 4.) Prepare the solution of Polyquaternium-1 in water (1:5) (should be clear) then add it to the shampoo and mix until uniform (D). 5.) Add the ingredients of phase E and mix (E). 6.) Heat the mixture of phase F to 4-45 C and add to the shampoo with gentle stirring (F). 7.) Add the mixture of fragrance and solubilizer and stir until uniform (G). 8.) Adjust the viscosity with the solution of Sodium Chloride (H). 9.) Add the preservative and adjust the ph with citric acid (6.-7.). Refreshing Body Wash Featuring Silsoft Silk conditioning agent Phase Ingredients INCI Name Wt (%) A Demineralized Water Water q.s. Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA.1 B Protachem ES-2 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 32. Ritataine Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8. Amidex LMEA Lauramide MEA 1. BHT BHT.1 C Silsoft 88 PEG-12 Dimethicone.5 Silsoft Silk Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth 6 (and) Deceth 7 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Dipropylene Glycol 1. D Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 1. Kathon CG Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinole.8 E Fragrance Fragrance q.s. Procedure: 1.) In main vessel, combine all ingredients in phase A. Mix until Disodium EDTA is dissolved. 2.) Individually add phase B surfactants under propeller mixing. Heat to 7-75 C. 3.) When all solids are well dispersed, add phase C materials. Begin cooling to 25 C. 4.) Adjust viscosity with Sodium Chloride. 5.) Add fragrance (note that it may be necessary to add a solubilizing agent with fragrance to maintain clarity). Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Momentive makes no representation or warranty of any kind with respect to any such formulations, including, without limitation, concerning the effi cacy or safety of any product manufactured using such formulations. *Silsoft and Silsoft Silk are trademarks of Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Elfan is a trademark of Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. Euranaat and Euroglyc are trademarks of the EOC Group Crodasinic, Crothix and Crovol are trademarks of Croda International Plc Celquat is a trademark of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC Cetiol and Comperlan are trademarks of Cognis IP Management GmbH Portachem is a trademark of Protameen Chemicals Inc. Ritataine is a trademark of R.I.T.A. Corporation Amidex is a trademark of The Lubrizol Corporation Kathon is a trademark of Rohm and Haas Company Page 7 of 8
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