Turkey - Istanbul & the Bosphorus Migration Naturetrek 15-23 September 2012 Bursa silk market Short-toed Eagle Water Pipit Scarce Swallowtail Report compiled by Andy Harding Images courtesy of Elizabeth Young Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W: www.naturetrek.co.uk
Turkey - Istanbul & the Bosphorus Migration Tour Leaders: Andy Harding Naturetrek ornithologist Kerem Ali Boyla Local Guide and ornithologist Participants: Penny Austin Frankie Elliot Davina Frost Libby Frost Del Hitchcox Jude Hitchcox Stewart Houghton Rachel Knight Roger Knight Beryl Shaw Martin Shaw Geraldine Taylor Nigel Taylor Elizabeth Young Mark Young Day 1 Saturday 15th September Sunny - max 28 deg C Unfortunately the flight from Terminal 5 Heathrow was switched to an aircraft with 30 fewer seats resulting in Nigel and Geraldine being on another flight. The rest of the group arrived and met up with Kerem, our local guide, and Bayram, our driver, and we took our excellent bus through the fairly heavy traffic along the Bosphorus and crossed by car ferry to just below our hotel in Harem. A significant walk at this stage would have been pushing the schedule, so lounging and swimming in the open air pool occupied the group until the excellent dinner overlooking the Bosphorus. Nigel and Geraldine had rejoined us before our meal, so we were able to collectively look forward to the next day s birding. Day 2 Sunday 16th September Max 26 deg C - Quite breezy The splendid buffet breakfast was also taken outside with the same magnificent views. However an early start and quiet Sunday traffic saw us in the pine-forested lower slopes of Büyük Camlica with plenty of time to spare. With patience we were able to see a few Red-breasted Flycatchers including a male still in superb summer plumage. Spotted Flycatchers and Blackcaps were slightly more numerous but real exotica was provided by a Syrian Woodpecker and a Golden Oriole at different times in the same sparsely-leafed tree. As we moved towards the raptor watch point area most of the group saw a nice female Crossbill. At raptor watch level our first bird of note was a very obliging Red-backed Shrike. Naturetrek November 12 1
A juvenile Honey Buzzard gave some great views, but single Short-Toed and Lesser Spotted Eagles were very distant. The perambulating crowds got ever thicker, including at least three wedding parties! The scene was most interesting and colourful, but comparatively birdless, so we moved slightly higher where we could buy freshly made gozleme and other delectables for a rather early lunch and then departed 30km north to the Toygar Tepe hill where we are able to watch for birds and particularly raptors next to the fire watch station with no tourists. Here we were quite lucky. While numbers of Booted, Lesser Spotted and Short-toed Eagles barely reached double figures some were very close, so the identification of each species could be discussed and the features clearly seen without the confusion of masses of birds. Hobbies, both adults and juveniles, regularly passing though at close range enhanced the afternoon, while even more numerous were Alpine Swifts with a few Beeeaters. The star bird was a Long-Legged Buzzard which is uncommon here. A long stretch in the hot sun demanded a tea and ice-cream stop alongside the Bosphorus, before returning to the hotel for another super meal. Day 3 Monday 17th September A couple of light showers but mainly fine - c.28 deg C Some overnight rain and a thunderstorm just before dawn prompted a reappraisal of the plan for the day, but fortunately we still opted for a birding day, and 40 minutes after leaving Hotel Harem we were in the park at Küçük Camlica. Among the many Ring-necked Parakeets we were able to obtain superb views of the larger Alexandrine Parakeet both now form substantial feral populations in the city, but were no less enjoyed for that. 3 Short-toed Treecreepers, several Red-breasted Flycatchers, Lesser Whitethroats, and smaller numbers of Blackcaps and Willow Warblers were seen, and eventually well by the group. Tree Sparrows, feeding on the seeds of grasses, were noted in small flocks at several points. More indicative of migration were two flocks of Beeeaters, a Honey Buzzard, and most surprisingly, the second Long-legged Buzzard of the trip. However we were able to note comparative lack of activity at the main raptor watch points and took tea on the absolutely enchanting terrace looking out over the city. We then followed our plan to go directly back to Toygar Tepe. Initially activity was fairly slow enabling us to enjoy a top class picnic lunch, largely uninterrupted. Despite a few very light showers and some grey cloud things really started to move. Most raptor species, including Booted, and Short-toed Eagle and Steppe Buzzard were similar to yesterday. However in addition to our third Long-legged Buzzard, two Levant Sparrowhawks and two Red-footed Falcons were added to the list, as was a single Black Stork. The 40 or so Swallows were accompanied by a couple of Sand Martins, one of which was taken on the wing by a Hobby. Five Tree Pipits and a similar number of Yellow-type (Flava) Wagtails added to the passerine count but the real stars were Lesser-Spotted Eagles, two of which comically collided in mid-air. The logged tally was 297, but quite a few more may have been missed as they came by in squadrons, sometimes gliding, sometimes thermalling in kettles, but ever present for a couple of hours fantastic! A quiet interlude after 4.30 pm suggested we return to the hotel before the worst of the traffic to prepare for another pleasant al fresco dinner. Day 4 Tuesday 18th September 23 deg C. Cloudy in Istanbul. Rain late afternoon in Bursa Today we temporarily vacated Hotel Harem to travel to Bursa, the ancient Ottoman capital. 2 Naturetrek November 12
To beat the traffic we didn t leave until 9.30am which meant a pretty clear route to the ferry terminal at Eskihisar. The ferry to Toplucar cuts over 150 km off the road journey. It also enables us to see plenty of gulls providing everyone brings lots of bread, to attract and keep them behind the ferry. This proved a great success so that over a dozen Mediterranean Gulls and two Baltic Gulls provided constant tutorial opportunities among the Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gulls of various ages. The journey towards Bursa was uneventful, so we took a slightly early lunch on the shore of Lake Izuit. A dozen Pygmy Cormorants were new birds to most of the group, but were overshadowed by around 300 Great Crested Grebes, most in a single flock, engaged in a communal fishing activity none of us had seen before. Half a dozen Dice Snakes hunting up to 100m out were a second highlight. A traditional grilled meat lunch with superb sheep s milk yoghurt and other goodies was absolutely lovely. We then travelled on into Bursa, not too troubled by traffic and rapidly checked in at the Hotel Burcman. 20 minutes later we were on our way to the historical centre. While inside our first venue, the Great Mosque, the heavens opened as seldom witnessed, and once prayers started we had to leave, but were able to shelter under the arch of the main entrance. Eventually we made a run for the world famous silk market. After a little purchasing, the rain disappeared and we were able to visit the Green Mosque and Green Tomb virtually on our own. The latter, now fully restored, was simply breath-taking. Then back to the hotel for an excellent dinner. Day 5 Wednesday 19th September Max 20 deg C on Mt Uludag, a mixture of cloud and sunshine and occasional misty patches It was largely overcast when we started our climb in the bus up Mt Uludag. However our first stop was in sunshine, so a couple of Golden Orioles and some Bee-eaters showed well. Within 20 minutes mist rolled in from below and we moved further up the mountain. Our second stop was similarly interrupted after 30 minutes. So our plan to stop in each of the six vegetative zones, largely characterised by their trees, was abandoned and we pushed more rapidly up the mountain to try and see the keynote species in case the weather intervened even more seriously. So we climbed into the National Park where our first excitement was a really excellent view of Crossbills, particularly the red males. Eventually our tally for this species exceeded 100! A couple of Stonechats and several Whinchats characterised the more open area, and after a few European Nuthatches had been seen, all had prolonged view of a singing Kruper s Nuthatch, which was occasionally harassed by Coal Tits. The weather stayed kind so we took our splendid picnic lunch here, with only a couple of Honey Buzzards and a Cardinal Fritillary as new interruptions. We then climbed right to the ski resort where the vegetation around the hotels and ski-lifts is excellent for birds. Water Pipits and Willow Warblers abound. Black Redstarts are easy to see, and some were singing. Serins numbered 50 or so, but not many were well seen, but most importantly a small group of Red-fronted Serins, which eventually yielded 3 of the stunning adults, were found quite early on in our visit. We watched these delightful birds, with the supporting cast often also visible, for simply ages. Although the weather had not deteriorated we decided not to fill in all the vegetation zone gaps with stops on our descent, but settled for a tea under the 603 year old Plane tree what an incredible sight this giant is at Inkaya village before returning to our hotel, and after suitable freshening up, another excellent dinner. Naturetrek November 12 3
Day 6 Thursday 20th September A prompt early start from Hotel Burcman saw us heading west through the vast suburbs of Bursa, but on a motorway. A reconstruction of our intended junction meant we turned off about 2km further on and were able to visit the village of Eskikaraagac, where we were able to stand on the shore of Lake Ulubat overlooking a reed bed and take a pleasant stroll along its shore. The most immediately obvious birds were Squacco Herons: apparently various shades of ochreous brown when hunting, but white in flight. Two Marsh Harriers occasionally patrolled. A tight flock of around 40 Little Grebes was highly unusual by UK standards. Pygmy Cormorants flew over regularly, with fewer fly-bys by Little Egret. The smaller birds were more frustrating. A large number of Willow Warblers seemed just as happy in the reeds as the occasional Reed Warbler. A small number of Tree Pipits and Yellow Wagtails flying over were identified by call rather than plumage; a couple of flocks of Spanish Sparrows and a small flock of Short-toed Larks were equally frustrating to those not familiar to them. Finally several calls indicated there was a Penduline Tit in the nearby reeds, which eventually took flight and though in the air for a decent time gave poor views. On the other hand some delightful dragon and damselflies were much enjoyed in this beautiful location, which was enhanced by the sheer visibility of 3 Kingfishers. We then retraced our steps and took the junction to the village of Glöyazi. Our first stop here was at the small fish packing station, which also allows close views over a reed bed. This short stop enabled us to see the Carp which abound in the lake being loaded into a refrigerated truck bound for Iraq! We needed to move rapidly on across the causeway to the rest of the village on the island to see the fish market at noon however the new purpose-built building for that purpose is clearly being ignored (cost?), and the auction was disappointingly informal and had clearly started before noon! Kingfisher, Pygmy Cormorant and Grebes could be seen along the shore, before we took our lunch in the main square overlooking the lake freshly made gozlemes with up to five fillings. The square emptied of men (there were virtually no women) to attend a funeral service in the mosque, followed by a procession to the nearby cemetery, with the coffin of a deceased woman being carried at some time by everybody in the procession well over a hundred men: whilst the women mourn at home: an interesting if obviously sad spectacle. Rather than try yet another point on this vast lake we decided to return to Istanbul. A good run to the ferry terminal, almost instant access to a ferry saw us making good time. Of course the groups recently acquired gull identification skills were tested to the full on the return crossing, when only about 10 Sandwich Terns were a new species. The journey back through the vast outskirts of Istanbul was brilliantly quick, and even scored us a Peregrine, so that the grateful group had a good time to relax, swim, read etc before another lovely dinner. Day 7 Friday 21st September 18 deg C rising to 21 deg C - showers, and some heavy rain, drying up from 3pm We left the hotel at 8 pm, walked down to the ferry terminal where we met Kerem and crossed to the Historical Peninsula with just some spitting rain. Kerem s first job was to guide us onto the tram which took us up to the Hippodrome with its Egyptian obelisk and Serpent s column. This led neatly into the fabulous Blue Mosque, so named because of its predominant internal decorative colour, and now the major mosque of Istanbul. 4 Naturetrek November 12
Our intention to then visit Agia Sophia was thwarted by it being completely full because of the rain no-one would leave so we went underground into the tranquil and dry vastness of the Cistern, an incredible huge underwater reservoir more resembling a palace, supported by over 300 columns and rediscovered after centuries by children fishing through a hole in the ground! It was a brilliant, and to those who had not read the guidebooks, a very surprising change to the order of the programme. Improving weather allowed us to then enter Agia Sophia, previously both a church and a mosque, but now a museum. For over 1000 years this was the largest building in the world! It still contains, on its walls, some supreme examples of early Christian art despite its conversion to a mosque following Mehmet II s capture of Istanbul in 1453. His liberal outlook allowed simply for plastering over Christian images, hence preserving them, perhaps influenced by the fact that all his Eunuchs were Christian! So now the works of art of both religions sit side by side. For lunch we ate at a canteen-style restaurant, but that description did not do justice to a delicious variety of traditional vegetable and meat dishes at value prices. Then we strolled down to the Topkapi Palace with its four increasingly intimate courtyards and astonishing collections of jewellery and clothing. The kitchen, staffed at its height by 600, was unfortunately still closed for restoration, for the fourth year in a row! Given the magnificence of the rest of the buildings we could only image what they might have been like in their heyday. Mirroring the Ottoman Empire, Topkapi had started small and gradually expanded over the centuries, thus encompassing many styles of architecture. We also found time for another refreshment break on an increasingly hot day, on the terrace affording fabulous views over the Bosphorus, and flocks of Yelkouan Shearwaters moving in both directions and numbering around 450 in total. We then walked downhill to the ferry terminal to cross in very benign conditions to Harem and the hotel just up the hill. Day 8 Saturday 22nd September Hazy very early, then fine and warm 26 deg C This was a choice day, so Davina and Libby, Jude and Del went to the old city, while Stewart went up the Bosphorus. The rest of us took the birding option. The wind direction suggested Büyük Camlica as the best bet for a decent raptor migration, so, as usual we walked slowly through the lower slopes en route to the raptor watch point. However hardly had we set out but 7 Levant Sparrowhawks were circling overhead these had certainly passed the night in local woodland. There were slightly fewer birds, but Whitethroat, Red-breasted Flycatcher and a close encounter with a Cuckoo kept us entertained. At the top a Wryneck was a much appreciated find, as was a male Sardinian Warbler. The following wind enabled the larger birds passing through to fly very high, but we eventually connected with two small flocks of White Storks and one of Black Stork. Small numbers of Short-toed Eagle and Steppe Buzzard and single Redfooted Falcon and Marsh Harrier were deemed modest fare in 3 hours. So we went to the Black Sea! This was enjoyed very much by all in the bus, though to be fair the birding was not really any better. However the wind direction here was almost diametrically opposite to that 30km west and that prompted us to return to Toygar Tepe for the last couple of hours of the birding day. 97 Lesser Spotted Eagles and 138 Steppe Buzzards in spectacular kettles were a great reward. Small numbers of Short-toed and Booted Eagles, a flock of 25 Redfooted Falcons and our only two Black Kites of the trip added to the fun and for some the best bird of the day was found and photographed a Rock Bunting, which is extremely rare in the Istanbul area. Naturetrek November 12 5
A little late, we shot back to the hotel, joined up with those who had an excellent time in the Grand Bazaar or up the Bosphorus, in time to head off into the mayhem of Kadakoy, disembark from the bus and walk through the bewildering maze of streets to the even greater mayhem of the Hamsi Pub, where following mezes, the choice was Black Sea Anchovy, Horse Mackerel or Bonito well it is a fish restaurant, that will bring in meat meals from next door if needed! Back at the hotel we bade a sad farewell to Kerem who was unable to escort us back to the airport the next day fulsome tributes were paid to his many skills and his huge contribution to the holiday. While Bayram, our driver, would be taking us to the airport he was similarly lauded for the safe way he had driven us through the traffic in Istanbul. Day 9 Sunday 23rd September Fine and warm - 27 deg C Stewart set off eastwards for Australia at around 8am, but the rest of us only needed to be away by 9.30am. A Turkish and English speaking guide called Ebru joined us for the morning and the journey to the airport. A late afternoon flight allowed us about 3 hours on the hill, and Büyük Camlica was the choice. Fine and still weather was hopeless for decent passage, so we contented ourselves with Redstart, Sardinian Warbler, Wryneck, Lesser Whitethroat and Red-backed Shrike in the bushes in front of the raptor watch point, enjoying the always stunning view, taking tea or ice-cream and eventually lunch from the several stalls. The journey to the airport was smoother and quicker than expected. There Andy left the group to check-in at the international terminal, while he went off to western Turkey for a few days on behalf of Naturetrek. He trusts everyone arrived home safely. What a brilliant holiday, so easy to manage with such a co-operative, sociable, easy-going, enthusiastic group. Thank you all for making it such fun! Red-backed Shrike White Storks 6 Naturetrek November 12
Turkey - Istanbul & the Bosphorus Migration Species List Birds ( = recorded but not counted; h = heard only) September Common name Scientific name 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 50 2 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 300 20 3 Yelkouan Shearwater Puffinus yelkouan 30 450 4 Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis 6 1 5 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 50+ 6 Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus 12 25 7 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus h 8 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 12 9 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 3 10 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 10 1 11 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 21 12 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1 5 13 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 8 14 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina 8 297 97 15 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus 2 4 7 16 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 10 13 3 17 Black Kite Milvus migrans 2 18 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 3 1 19 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 1 2 1 20 Steppe Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus 8 5 1 138 21 Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 1 1 2 1 22 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 5 6 1 3 23 Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes 1 2 7 24 Goshawk Accipiter gentillis 1 25 Hobby Falco subbuteo 7 10 4 26 Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 27 Red-footed Falcon Falco verspertinus 2 25 28 Peregrine Falco peregrinus 1 29 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 1 30 Coot Fulica atra 300 31 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 32 Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus 12 19 33 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans 34 Baltic Gull Larus fuscus fuscus 2 1 35 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis 10 36 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus 1 37 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia 38 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 1 39 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 2 40 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 3 3 1 2 41 Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria 3+ 3 42 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri 1 43 Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1 1 44 Alpine Swift Apus melba 60 150 20 45 Pallid Swift Apus pallidrus h 6 46 Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 4 47 Bee-eater Merops apiaster 30 100 30 Naturetrek November 12 1
September Common name Scientific name 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 48 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis h 49 Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus 1 h 1 50 Great-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2+ 51 Wryneck Jynx torquilla 1 1 52 Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 8 53 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 3 1 54 Swallow Hirundo rustica 2 50 100 55 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 1 56 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta 40 57 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 5 2 2 1 58 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 4 6 59 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 4 3 60 Dunnock Prunella modularis 3 61 Robin Erithacus rubecula 1 3 62 Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 1 1 63 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 1 6 64 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 3 65 Stonechat Saxicola torquata 2 66 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra 12 1 67 Blackbird Turdus merula h 1 2 68 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 1 69 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 6 70 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 4 4 3 1 3 71 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca h 5 1 1 72 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 1 73 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 1 1 74 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 1 75 Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 2 76 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 3 20 15 5 3 77 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 2 h 78 Goldcrest Regulus regulus 2 79 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 4 2 6 4 2 80 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva 2 10+ 2 81 Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca 1 82 Great Tit Parus major 83 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus 1 1 1 84 Coal Tit Periparus ater 12 85 Marsh Tit Poecile palustris h 86 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 12 87 Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 3 88 Nuthatch Sitta europaea 4 89 Kruper's Nuthatch Sitta Krueperi 1+ 90 Common Treecreeper Certhia familiaris h 91 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla 3 h 92 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 1 2 1 1 3 1 1 93 Magpie Pica pica 94 Jay Garrulus glandarius 2 2 12 1 95 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix 96 Jackdaw Corvus monedula 97 Raven Corvus corax 1 2 1 98 Starling Sturnus vulgaris 2 1 6 5 2 Naturetrek November 12
September Common name Scientific name 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 99 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1 2 100 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 25 101 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 102 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 25 103 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs h 3 104 Serin Serinus serinus 50 105 Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus 6 106 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 12 107 Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula h 108 Crossbill Loxia curvirostra 1 7 100 109 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 1 Mammals Brown Rat Reptiles Italian Wall Lizard Dice Snake Spur-thighed Tortoise Butterflies & Moths Swallowtail Scarce Swallowtail Small White Large White Orange Tip Clouded Yellow Small Copper Lesser Fiery Copper Lang's short-tailed Blue Common Blue Brown Argus Red Admiral Painted Lady Cardinal Marbled White Meadow Brown Wall Brown Speckled Wood Mallow Skipper Hummingbird Hawk-moth Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek e-mailing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit www.naturetrek.co.uk to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at www.facebook.com is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! Naturetrek November 12 3