PATTERN DRAFTING FOR WOMEN BY USING INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENT - DARTLESS PATTERN MODEL FOR DIFFERENT BODY SHAPES

(REFEREED RESEARCH) PATTERN DRAFTING FOR WOMEN BY USING INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENT - DARTLESS PATTERN MODEL FOR DIFFERENT BODY SHAPES BİREYSEL ÖLÇÜLER KULLANILARAK KADIN GİYSİ KALIBI OLUŞTURULMASI - FARKLI VÜCUT ŞEKİLLERİNE GÖRE PENSSİZ BEDEN KALIBI ÖRNEĞİ Figen ÖZEREN * * * Çukurova University, Adana Vocation School, Adana, Turkey Received: 02.02.2012 Accepted: 21.03.2012 ÖZET Günümüzün gittikçe artan rekabetçi koşulları, farklılık yaratan firmaları ön plana çıkarmaktadır. Bu durum, üreticileri önemi gittikçe artan kişisel üretim yöntemlerine doğru yöneltmiştir. İnsan vücudunun kişiler arasında farklılık göstermesi, giysi ve vücut uyumundan kaynaklanan problemleri de beraberinde getirmektedir. Bu da, giysi üretiminin bireysel vücut ölçülerine ve vücut şekillerine göre yapılmasının önemini ortaya koymaktadır. Bu çalışma kapsamında, giysi ve vücut uyumundan kaynaklı problemlerin çözümü için kişilerin bireysel ölçüleri kullanılarak penssiz kadın temel beden kalıp çizim tekniği geliştirilmiş ve kalıp çizimi Assyst CAD sisteminde gerçekleştirilmiştir. Kalıp çiziminde 12 adet vücut ölçüsü kullanılmıştır. Dikdörtgen temeli üzerine oluşturulan kalıp, üçgen ve kum saati vücut şekillerine sahip 20 kadın için ayrı ayrı hazırlanmıştır. Hazırlanan kalıbın kontrolü için, patiska kumaşından prototipi dikilmiştir. Hazırlanan kalıbın farklı vücut şekillerine sahip kadınlar için kullanılabilirliği ve prototipin vücuda uygunluk değerlendirmeleri, önceden hazırlanan ölçütler doğrultusunda kullanıcılar ve uzmanlar tarafından gerçekleştirilmiştir. 20 kullanıcı ve 3 uzmana ait değerlerin tanımlayıcı istatistikleri hesaplanmıştır. Çalışma sonucunda; geliştirilen kalıp çiziminin her iki vücut şekli için de kullanılabilir olduğu belirlenmiştir. Geliştirilen beden çiziminin sadece vücut ölçüleri kullanılarak gerçekleştiriliyor olmasının, vücut tarama sistemlerinden elde edilecek verilerle kişiye özel üretim yapılması sürecinin de alt yapısını oluşturacağı düşünülmektedir. Anahtar Kelimeler: Konfeksiyon, Giysi kalıbı, Giysi ve vücut uyumu, CAD sistemi. ABSTRACT Competitive conditions of today s market feature the companies which make difference. This situation led manufacturers to consider the personal production methods, which is increasing in importance. The fact that human body differs from person to person causes to problems based on harmony between garment and body shapes. This situation reveals the importance of production according to individual body measurements and body shapes in garment production. In this study, a basic dartless pattern drafting method was made for woman by using individual body measurements and Assyst CAD pattern making system in order to solve problems related to the harmony between clothing and body shape. While designing the pattern, 12 body measurements were used. The pattern, which was made on rectangular basis, was separately designed for 20 women who have triangle and hourglass shapes. So as to check the pattern, a prototype was made by using batiste fabric. The usability of this pattern for women having different body shapes, and evaluations of fit of prototype were done by users and professionals within the framework of prepared criteria. Definitive statistics of values were calculated for 20 consumers and 3 professionals. At the end of the study it was determined that designed pattern drafting is useable for both body shapes. It is thought that providing designed pattern drafting only by using body measurements will constitute the infrastructure of made to measure production process by using data through body scanning systems. Key Words: Apparel, Garment pattern, Garment and body harmony, CAD system. * Corresponding Author: Figen Özeren, fozeren@cu.edu.tr, Tel:+ 90 322 226 41 60 Fax:+90 322 226 41 49 1. INTRODUCTION In current market conditions, in which there is a shift from product-oriented sales methods to consumer-oriented sales methods, garment firms are conducting several studies in order to meet their consumers wishes and expectations. One of the studies is personal production, which is increasing in importance. Personal production in garment sector is based 144 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012

on the principle of producing clothes harmonized with an individual s body measurements. The tendency towards personal production in garment sector is sweeping in all around the world, especially in developed countries. Studies showed that great majority of consumers cannot find clothes that fit their body measurements (1). For this reason firms were oriented towards personal production in order to produce clothes that would fit individuals body measurements The stage of drafting pattern in garment industry is an important factor directly affecting clothing s fit to body and aesthetical features. In individual production process, comfort of use at expected level is as important as aesthetical look while providing the harmony between clothing and body shape. Because of genetic structure; social status, cultural structure, nutrition habits, sport activities, and economic elements; body shapes, body posture, and proportions of body parts differ from one person to other (2). Garment products are made according to average measurements; consumers having different body shapes use these products, and problems occur due to harmony between clothing and body shape related customer dissatisfactions (3). For personal production studies, body scanners played an important role and it was accepted to be one of the technological innovations constituting infrastructure for this development. Through their rapid and practical measurement methods, body scanners both contribute to large-scale measurement studies conducted to develop standard sizes (4), and taking the individual body measurements (5). In literature there are a lot of studies about personal production and fit to body. Below, some of these studies were included. Vuruşkan actualized the analysis of harmony between clothing and body, and body shapes through made to measure clothes (6). In her study, Mete introduced a new technique for two-dimensional pattern drafting for individually fitted garments. Within the framework of that study, 16 different measurements were taken from female body and they were translating into two-dimensional bodice patterns (7). Yeşilpınar and Bulgun carried out a survey in a group between the ages of 25-55, in order to analyze Turkish women problems regarding clothing s fit. At the end of the study it was revealed that only 9, 2 % of female consumers within the sample group do not have fitting problem in clothing that they purchase (8). In their study, Daanen and Hong prepared automatic m-t-m patterns on three samples in accordance with the measurements obtained through both body scanner and measuring by hand method. As a result, it was determined that a skirt that best fits to body can be produced by using data obtained through three-dimensional scanner (9). Wang, C., Wang, Y. and Yuen designed a cloth for a certain size, and so as to adopt the same cloth for another size they developed a new system what they called Automatic Made-to-Measure (10). Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, Labat and Salusso produced sample pants for 5 different sizes in concordance with two different body shapes for women aged 55 and older; and they tried these pants on 176 participants. As a result of the study it was determined that these pants, although they were same size, were produced according to different body shapes, and made significant difference regarding the fit to body (11). Chen analyzed clothing s fit to body for people who have different body shapes; for this purpose prepared individual patterns for 10 women representing different body shapes, and tried clothes. At the end of the study it was mentioned that samples who have non-standard body shapes encounter fit to body problem (12). In their study Cho, Komatsu, Inui, Takatera, Shimizu and Park developed a personal pattern drafting method. They made slim-fitting skirts by using both new and old methods for two different body shapes and compared and contrasted them (13). As former studies also address, due to non-standard conditions stemming from differences between body shapes it is of vital importance to develop a new pattern drafting system, which takes into consideration individuals body shapes and fit the body better. Today several pattern drafting methods are used. In these methods, which include a number of drafting rules, most of the measures are calculated by using several formulas or constant values that are directly based upon experience (7). These pattern systems are unclear and drafting process is time consuming. In this research a pattern drafting system was developed, in which individual measurements were used, and this pattern was assessed according to its fit for people having different body shapes. Body drafting process is based upon body measurements; for this reason, it is believed that data that will be obtained through body scanning systems will constitute the infrastructure of made to measure production process. 2. MATERIAL AND METHOD In this study a new basic dartless bodice pattern drafting technique was developed based on individual measurements. This pattern, designed on rectangular basis, was assessed for its fit to triangle and hourglass body shapes, which are most common body shapes among Turkish women (3). Evaluations of fit to body were done by users and professionals according to preconditioned criteria. Also, definitive statistics of values were calculated for 20 consumers and 3 professionals. Conducted applications can be listed as follows: In order to reach body shapes within the sample; from the front view of body, outer lines of the hip and shoulder measurements were taken as references and proportioning was done accordingly (3). Body shapes within the sample are shown in Figure 1. Triangle shape, is characterized by broader hips than shoulders (3). Hourglass shape, is shown with full shoulders and hips and waist (3) TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012 145

Triangle shape Hourglass shape Figure 1. Body shapes within the sample (14) Existing basic dartless woman body systems were analyzed from accessible resources, and necessary measurements were taken. For this study 20 women having triangle and hourglass body shapes were selected. Also, 12 different measurements were taken on individual s underwear from right hand side. Bust, waist, and hip widths; and front and back lengths, and collar circumferences were measured with respect to methods mentioned in related resources and existing systems (15-16-17). While in existing pattern systems measurements are obtained through calculation, in this study they were taken from individuals. Figure 2 shows the ways how these measurements were taken. Information provided below regarding the ways how these measurements were taken in Figure 2. Arm width: Is the distance of front and back arm joins (15) Shoulder width: Is the measurement from edge of shoulder to collar (15) Armhole depth: Is the measurement of length from the highest point of shoulder to the armpit axis point that arm meets body (15). Shoulder drop angle: Is the measurement of shoulder slope in terms of angel (15). Front collar drop: Is the perpendicular distance from base of the neck, which is the highest point of shoulder, to front neck hole (7). Back collar drop: Is the perpendicular distance from base of the neck, which is the highest point of shoulder, to the diapophysis (7). A basic dartless bodice pattern for woman was developed according to the measurements taken from an individual, and it was designed by using Assyst Cad pattern drafting system. The pattern was developed on rectangular basis, and it was designed separately according to the measurements of 20 people within the sample group. During pattern drafting, different from existing methods, following points were taken into consideration: - Front and back widths were taken evenly - No angled measurements were used except for shoulder slope. - According to the accessible and analyzed basic dartless bodices for woman, front and back length measurements were not taken into consideration. - In this study front and back length measurements were used. - Pattern drafting was done only by using 12 body measurements. - In the developed pattern drafting, following looseness was given; bust 12 cm, waist 15 cm, hip 8 cm, and for back armhole back looseness 0, 5 cm. Looseness was determined in line with researcher s pre-testing and literature knowledge (15). Apart from that no other looseness was used. It was considered that looseness would differ depending upon the model of clothing type (dress, shirt, blouse, etc.) and feature of the fabric. Prepared patterns, which were developed by using Assyst Cad computer based pattern drafting system, were printed out from the plotter and sewed by batiste fabric for control purposes. The sample group, 20 people, dressed sample clothes that were prepared for them separately. For the evaluation, sample dresses were presented to an academic jury composed of 3 model-pattern professionals. Professionals evaluation criteria for fit to body composed of 18 criteria (6) and 3 options. User evaluations, which will be done by people who wear the clothes, were also planned. This evaluation was composed of 8 criteria assessing the level of comfort and a scale of 3 options. Lastly, regarding the prepared pattern s harmony between clothing and body, definitive statistics were calculated for evaluations of 20 users and 3 professionals. Figure 2. How to take clothing measures a-b-c-d-e-f 146 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION At the beginning of the study, dartless basic woman bodice pattern drafting was done on rectangular basis. Then, prepared pattern was drafted according to individual measurements of 20 people having triangle and hourglass body shapes, and in order to analyze drafting differences, size 38 patterns of two body shapes were compared. Lastly, regarding the prepared pattern s harmony between clothing and body, definitive statistics were calculated for evaluations of 20 users and 3 professionals. 3.1. Dartless Basic Woman Bodice Pattern Drafting and Its Steps Steps of dartless basic woman bodice pattern drafting (Figure 3), which was designed by using Assyst Cad computer based pattern drafting system on rectangular basis, are below. On a rectangular basis measurements are as follows, Bust ½ (looseness allowed measurement) and Hip drop (length); 3.2. Fit to Body Evaluations Prepared pattern, was drafted according to individual measurements of 20 people having triangle and hourglass body shapes, measurements were shown in Table 1 1-3 Armhole depth (2) and Back length (3) 3-4 Hip drop (4) 1-5 ½ of the rectangular (5), downward (6-7-8) 1-9 Back collar drop (9) 1-10 Collar circumference ¼ -1,5cm(10) 9-10 Back collar curve 10-11 An arc as the shoulder width (11) 11-12 Shoulder drop angle on the arc (12) 6-13/14/15 Marking (13) to the right from point 6 as arm width½ and marking (14) to the left from point 6 as arm width½, the point that point 13 and 12 intersect is (15). 15-16 ½ of 13-15 (16) 16-17 ½ of 13-16 (17) 17-18 0,5 cm (back looseness 18) 12-18-6 Back arm curve 19-20 Front Length (20) 20-21 Collar circumference ¼ -1cm (21) 20-22 Collar circumference ¼ -1,5cm (22) 21-24 Front collar curve 14-23 As the distance between 13 and 15 (23) 23-24 ½ of 14-23 (24) 24-25 ½ of 14-24 (25) 25-26 Perpendicular 1cm (Can change between 1-2cm 26) 22-27 On 22-23 line, shoulder width (27) 27-26-6 Front arm curve 19-28 / 3-29 Waist ¼ (looseness allowed measurement) (28-29) Front hip line-30/ 4-3 Hip ¼ (looseness allowed measurement) (30-31) 6-28/6-29 Flat 28-31/29-30 Hip curve Figure 3. Study of dartless basic woman bodice pattern TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012 147

Table 1. Bare measurements of 20 people Triangle Body Shape Measurements (cm) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1- Bust 104 86 87 90 87 82 94 93 90 85 2- Waist 83 70 73 75 70 75 78 78 76 73 3- Hip 122 100 107 108 102 107 106 108 106 100 4-Arm width 13 11 11,5 11,5 11 10,5 11 14 11 11,5 5- Collar circumference 39 34 34 35 34,5 35 36 36 36 35 6- Shoulder width 11,5 10 10 9,5 10,5 11 12 11 10 9,5 7- Front length 42 42 39 40 42 43 42 42 41,5 42 8- Back length 40 39 36,5 39 39 40 40 40 39 39,5 9-Armhole depth 20 19,5 19 19,5 19,5 19 19,5 20 20 19 10- Shoulder drop 3 2 3 2 2,5 3 3,5 3 2,5 2,5 11-Front collar drop 8 7,5 7 8 8 8 8 7,5 7,5 8 12- Back collar drop 2 2,5 2 2 2,3 2 2 2,5 2 2 Hourglass Body Shape Measurements (cm) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1- Bust 95 98 93 94 90 88 94 85 83 92 2- Waist 77 80 78 76 73 70 75 66 66 74 3- Hip 100 103 96 94 92 92 99 89 87 92 4-Arm width 12 14 12 12 13 12 14 13 13 11,5 5- Collar circumference 35 36 36 35 34,5 34 35 34 34 34 6- Shoulder width 10 10 9,5 10 10 10,5 11 10 10 10 7- Front length 42 42 41 42 42 43 42 41 39 42 8- Back length 40 39 38 39 40 40 39 38 37 40 9-Armhole depth 20 19,5 19,5 20 19 20 19 19 18,5 19,5 10- Shoulder drop 2,5 2 2,5 3 2 3 2,5 3 2 2,5 11-Front collar drop 7,5 7,5 8 7,5 7 7 8 7,5 7,5 7 12- Back collar drop 2 2,5 2,5 2 2 2 2 2 2,5 2 In order to analyze drafting differences that emerge according to the body shapes, size 38 patterns of two body shapes were compared by superposing waist lines (Figure 4). Figure 4. Comparison of bodice patterns (size 38) for women having triangle and hourglass body shapes. Although both patterns are size 38, it is remarkable that there are differences between pattern designs. It is seen that none of the patterns for same body shape are the same, even if they are superposed from the waist lines. Therefore, this is an important finding accentuating to the significance of individual measurement oriented garment production. In the study prepared pattern s evaluation was conducted regarding the harmony between clothing and body. For this purpose, within the framework of preconditioned criteria 3- item Likert scale type subjective evaluation of 20 users and 3 professionals were analyzed, quantitative results were obtained, and definitive statistics were calculated. In order to calculate definitive statistics, first of all, it was determined if the average scores of referees and users are different or not. So as to do this, Kruskal-Wallis Test was used; results can be seen from Table 2. According to the Table 2, score averages that referees gave to the users were found to be similar; whereas, users score averages were lower than the referees. The fact that users score averages are lower than the referees is understood as the perception differences of evaluators. A person s definition of harmony depends on time, fashion culture, social interactions, and personal perceptions, this was also determined in other studies (6). In order to analyze the relationship between referee s and user s scores, Pearson Correlation Coefficient Test was conducted. Results are shown in Table 3. According to the Pearson correlation coefficient test, which was used to analyze the relationship between referee s and user s scores, there is a positive and normal level relationship between user s scores and referee s scores, which show parallelism. For example, user gave low score to the same clothing that referee gave low score, too. Likewise, user gave high 148 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012

score to the same clothing that referee gave high score. However, compared to referees users gave lower scores to the clothing on the scale of 100. This result shows parallelism with Table 2. While there is parallelism in referee s scores, users who evaluated the clothing gave lowers scores compared to referees. Kruskal-Wallis test was used in order to analyze if there is difference between the scores of referees and the scores of users having triangle and hourglass body shapes. Results can be seen from Table 4 and Table 5. According to these results, score averages of referees were found to be similar; but, score averages of users having triangle body shape are lower than referees score averages. According to the findings, score averages of referees were found to be similar; but, scores of users having hourglass shape were found to be lower compared to the scores of referee 1 and referee 3. Out of the total scores of both referee and users, evaluations of clothing harmony were analyzed including front and back bust harmony. Figures 5 and 6 show the evaluation results of referees regarding clothing of people having triangle and hourglass shapes. According to the referee evaluation results including front and back bust harmony; out of the total score shown in Figure 5 of clothing of people having triangle body shape, it is observed that chest-line is form fitting whereas front and back arm curves are loose. Table 2. Kruskal-Wallis Test results showing based on the scores given by referees and users for the clothing. Referee N Average Median Std. Deviation Minimum Maximum p Referee 1 20 90,00 91,67 7,67 72,22 100,00 Referee 2 20 88,61 90,28 8,35 63,89 100,00 Referee 3 20 90,42 91,67 9,30 58,33 100,00 <0.001 User 20 74,38 a 75,00 16,27 43,75 96,88 Total 80 85,85 88,89 12,66 43,75 100,00 a: Scores that users give are different than referees scores (Mann-Whitney U Test) Table 3. Correlation between the scores of the user and referee Pearson Correlation Coefficient User Referee 1 Referee 2 Referee 3 User 1 Referee 1,687* 1 Referee 2,651*,664* 1 Referee 3,484 *,601*,633* 1 Table 4. Kruskal-Wallis test results of referees scores regarding the harmony between clothing and body for people having triangle shape Referee N Average Median Std. Deviation Minimum Maximum p Referee 1 10 88,06 87,50 6,81 77,78 100,00 Referee 2 10 88,61 88,89 5,92 77,78 97,22 Referee 3 10 90,28 90,28 6,31 80,56 100,00 0.004 User 10 71,25 a 75,00 14,72 46,88 96,88 Total 40 84,55 86,11 11,79 46,88 100,00 a: Scores that users give are different than referees scores (Mann-Whitney U Test) Table 5. Kruskal-Wallis test results of referees scores regarding the harmony between clothing and body for people having hourglass shape Referee N Average Median Std. Deviation Min. Max. p Referee 1 10 91,94 94,44 8,33 72,22 100,00 Referee 2 10 88,61 93,06 10,59 63,89 100,00 Referee 3 10 90,56 94,45 11,94 58,33 97,22 0,028 User 10 77,50 a 87,50 17,91 43,75 93,75 Total 40 87,15 91,67 13,50 43,75 100,00 a: Users scores are different than the scores of referee 1 and referee 2 (Mann-Whitney U test) Form-fitting Normal-fitting Loose-fitting Form-fitting Normal-fitting Loose-fitting Three Referees Total Score 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Front grainline Chest-line Front collar curve Front arm curve Front waist- line Front waist width Front hip- line Front hip width Side seam Shoulder-line Back grainline Back width Back collar curve Back arm curve Back waist- line Back waist width Back hip- line Back hip width Three Referees Total Score 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Front grainline Chest-line Front collar curve Front arm curve Front waist- line Front waist width Front hip- line Front hip width Side seam Shoulder-line Back grainline Back width Back collar curve Back arm curve Back waist- line Back waist width Back hip- line Back hip width Figure 5. Evaluation results of referees regarding the clothing of people having triangle shape Figure 6. Evaluation results of referees regarding the clothing of people having hourglass shape TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012 149

According to the referees clothing evaluation results for people having hourglass body shape; it is seen from the Figure 6 that chest-line is form fitting, and front and back arm curves are loose. Figure 7 and 8 show the clothing evaluation results of users having triangle and hourglass body shapes. According to the clothing evaluation data for users having triangle shape, Figure 7 shows that the fit of front-back arm curves and bust area is at acceptable level; nevertheless, it is observed that there is no bad fit. According to the clothing evaluation data for users having hourglass shape; Figure 8 shows that, for 1 user front arm curve, for 1 user back arm curve were defined as bad fit; for 2 users front arm curve, for 3 users back arm curve, and for 2 users bust area were defined as acceptable fit. From the results of figures 5-6 and figures 7-8 it is understood that, in their pattern evaluations women having triangle and hourglass shapes have fit problems in the same areas. It was understood that with reference to the information of referees and users, developed pattern s chest-line and front-back armhole areas need to be improved. It is assumed that the reason for the problems determined in the armhole is the fact that arm is not joined to the bust. Also, it is thought that giving different looseness to this pattern, which is a basic bust drafting, according to the types of clothing would solve the problem in the bust area. Considering the information of referees and users, regarding the evaluations of two body shapes it is observed that loose fitting option is more common compared to form fitting and loose options. Accordingly, it was determined that developed pattern drafting is useable for both two body shapes. This result overlaps with forenamed studies finding (7) that clothing made by personal production patterns is best fit to body and it has less problems. 4. CONCLUSIONS In this research, a basic dartless pattern drafting was developed for woman by using individual body measurements in order to solve problems related to the harmony between clothing and body shape. This pattern, which was made on rectangular basis, was separately designed for 20 women who have triangle and hourglass shapes, and fit to body evaluations were conducted. Regarding the fit to body studies, the scores of referees and users gave to the clothing were analyzed statistically and it was found that referees score averages for users having triangle and hourglass shapes are similar in each other. In the numerical values obtained through evaluation results of referees and users, it was determined that there is looseness problem in the front and back armhole, and form fitting problem in bust area in both two body shapes. It is assumed that the reason for looseness in the armhole is the fact that arm is not joined to the bust. Furthermore, suggested drafting is a basic bust drafting, and giving different looseness according to the types of clothing would solve the form fitting problem in the chest-line. This situation also revealed the difficulty of subjective evaluation of fit to body. From the evaluation results of referees and users it was determined that best fit of the clothing is higher compared to other rates. According to the results it was confirmed that suggested dartless basic woman bust pattern is a good fit for body, and it is a good fit for different body shapes as well. The basic approach in suggested pattern has partially similar characteristics in common with the ones in the literature. However, the facts that some measures in the drafting were taken from the body instead of experience value or calculation methods; and using the front and back lengths in pattern drafting are the original features of the suggested pattern. 12 Bad Fit Acceptable Fit Best Fit 12 Bad Fit Acceptable Fit Best Fit 10 10 User Total Score 8 6 4 UserTotal Score 8 6 4 2 2 0 General Posture Back area Bust area Waist area Hip area Collar area Back arm Front arm 0 General Posture Back area Bust area Waist area Hip area Collar area Back arm Front arm Figure 7. Evaluation results of users for triangle shape Figure 8. Evaluation results of users for hourglass shape 150 TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012

This study revealed that individually fitted garments can reduce problems related to the fit to body. The way of personal production, which requires dense workload, is an expensive and time consuming process. The case that firms can provide alternative made to measure production options to consumers, along with the mass production, is found to be an advantageous situation regarding the competition. In addition, it is thought that following studies would enhance personal production methods; determining differences stemming from body shapes and preparing individual measurement tables, developing special pattern drafting methods according to body shapes and subsize groupings of a group of standard size including different body shapes. REFERENCES 1. Vuruşkan, A., Bulgun, E.Y., 2008, Kişiye Özel Üretim Sistemleri ve Made-To-Measure Uygulamaları, Tekstil ve Mühendis, pp.12-19, 2. Ashdown, S., 1995, The fit of clothing. The sizing of clothing. Fit testing. Clothing: The Portable Environment (2 nd Edition), Iowa State University Press, pp.264-276. 3. Çileroğlu, B., 2010, Body Shapes of Turkish Women: In Terms of The Ready-To-Wear Industry, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol.2, pp.130-136. 4. Öndoğan, Z., Pamuk, O., Eren, T., 2007, Giysi Tasarımı, Vücut Ölçülendirme ve Giysi Pazarlaması Konularında Simülasyon Sistemlerinin İncelenmesi, Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, Vol.4, pp.265-272. 5. Guerlain, P.H., Duran,B., 2006, Digitizing and Measuring of The Human Body for The Clothing Industry, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 18/3, pp. 151-165. 6. Vuruşkan, A., 2010, Vücuda Uygunluk Ve Tasarım Parametreleri Açısından Kişiye Özel Giysiler Üzerine Yeni Bir Yaklaşımın Geliştirilmesi, Unpublished PhD Thesis, Dokuz Eylül University, İzmir. 7. Mete, F., 2001, Doğrudan Vücut Ölçülerine Dayalı, Vücuda Tam Oturan Yeni Bir Bayan Üst Beden Temel Kalıp Hazırlama Tekniğinin Geliştirilmesi DEÜ Mühendislik Fakültesi Fen ve Mühendislik Dergisi, Vol.3/2, pp.69-82. 8. Yeşilpınar, S., Bulgun, E., 2007, Garment Fitting Problems of Turkish Females Towards Mass Customization, Proceedings of Autex, Tampere University of Technology, Finland. 9. Daanen, H., Hong, S., 2008, Made-to-measure Pattern Development Based on 3D Whole Body Scans, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol: 20(1), pp.15-25. 10. Wang, C., Wang, Y., Yuen, M.F., 2005, Design Automation for Customized Apparel Products, Computer Aided Design, Vol.37, pp.675-691. 11. Schofield, N., Ashdown, S., Hethorn, J., Labat, K. ve Salusso, C., 2006, Improving Pant Fit for Women 55 and Older Through an Exploration of Two Pant Shapes, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol.24(2), pp.147-160. 12. Chen, C., 2007, Fit Evaluation Within The Made-to-Measure Process International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol.19(2), pp.131-144. 13. Cho, Y., Komatsu, T., Inui, S., Takatera, M. Shimizu, Y. ve Park, H., 2006, Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing Textile Research Journal, Vol.76, pp.646-654. 14. Faust, M., Carrier, S., Baptist, P., 2006, Variations in Canadian Women's Ready-to-Wear Standard Sizes, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol.10(1), pp.71-83. 15. Çardak. F., Pamuk, T., Değirmenci, E., 2006, Kalıp Hazırlama Kadın Dış Giyimi, İstanbul Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon İhracatçı Birlikleri Eğitim Şubesi, Kalıp ve Koleksiyon Hazırlama Birimi, İstanbul. 16. http://modelistofis.blogcu.com/kalip+cizme+teknikleri, Bayan T Shirt Çalışması. TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 2/2012 151