Secret Garden Coat A Sewing Pattern and Tutorial by FooFoo Threads Sizes 6-9 Months through 8

Transcription

1 Secret Garden Coat A Sewing Pattern and Tutorial by FooFoo Threads Sizes 6-9 Months through 8 This retro style coat is modeled after one of my best selling dress patterns, Ruthie s Picnic Dress. The sweet little ruffles on the bodice and the oversized ruffled pixie hood give this coat its whimsical and charming appeal. The double skirts and sash that ties in front completes the adorable look. There is also a sweet little ruffled collar option, for those that want to skip the hood. You can even sew this coat without the hood or the collar, for a simpler look. Most of the seams (except the outer skirt) are hidden, so no zig zagging or serging is required. Plus, no buttonholes! The buttons are fastened with little loops instead (but you can make buttonholes if you prefer). Sizes 6-9 months up to size 8 are included. Happy sewing!

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3 Thank you for purchasing a FooFoo Threads sewing pattern and tutorial! Please feel free to contact me via the Etsy message system should you run into any difficulties with sewing this coat. I am more than happy to help! Just hit the contact button to send me a message. I recommend reading through this entire tutorial before starting this project. Please make sure you check out the choosing your size section. I recommend choosing your size according to your child s measurements, not by what your child normally wears in store bought clothing! Please note that in this tutorial and pattern, the baby and toddler sizes may sometimes be abbreviated to a single age size rather than an age range. Size 6-9m=9m, 6-12m=12m, and 12-18m=18m Please do not sell, distribute, share or copy this pattern. It is for use by the purchaser only. You are welcome to sell the finished garment in small quantities. Thank you! Copyright Foofoo Threads 2013 Supplies - Fabric (see fabric requirement chart) - Pins - Scissors - Sewing machine - Size 80 or above sewing machine needle - Measuring tape - Thread (I prefer good quality polyester, as it is less likely to break than cotton) - Turning tool (a bamboo skewer or chopstick work well) - Fabric pen or pencil - Between 3-8 medium to large size buttons (Between 0.75 and 1.5 ) - Hand sewing needle, for sewing on the buttons - Iron, preferably with a steam function - Seam ripper - Printer paper and scotch tape for putting together the pattern - Optional: Lightweight fusible interfacing: 1) a 1 wide strip for reinforcing the edges of the front bodice before placing the buttons/buttonholes Choosing Your Size Please choose your size from the chart on the following page, based on your child s chest measurement. The pattern is designed to fit approximately 5 to 6 inches wider in the chest than the child s chest measurement, to allow your child to comfortably wear this coat with clothing underneath. If you prefer a closer fitting coat, feel free to choose the next size down. However, if you do choose to downsize, you may need to lengthen the sleeves to fit your child. The finished chest circumference assumes 1 overlap for the buttons.you may have a little less than this or a little more, depending on your button size, where they are placed on the bodice, and whether you are doing button loops or buttonholes (there tends to be less overlap with the button loops). Note that the bodice will fit a little snugger in the chest if making buttonholes. Also, if you are using larger than 1 buttons you may need more overlap, and your resulting finished chest will be narrower. The chart also lists the average shoulder to wrist length for children in each size category. Please measure your child from shoulder tip (right where the shoulder ends and starts to slope downward into the upper arm) to wrist and compare to the chart for the size range you are making. Adjust the sleeve length as needed. Bear in mind that each sleeve is designed to be about 1 longer that the child s arm, so the cuff can be folded up about an inch. For your convenience I have also added a finished length, measured from under arm to hem.

4 Size Child s Chest Circumference Child s Arm Length, from Shoulder to Wrist Finished Chest Circumference 6-9M M M T T Finished Length from Under Arm to Hem Fabric Requirements The following fabric requirements are given in yards for 42 /43 wide fabric. Please note that many medium weight fabrics are wider than this, often 54 or more. I like to make the outside (main fabric) of this coat with medium weight fabric, but quilting weight cottons are fine too. Some of my favorite fabrics for the main coat include linen/cotton blends, home decorator weight cottons, velveteen, denim and corduroys. For the lining I prefer quilting cottons for the variety of prints available, but you can use just about anything you want, including terry, fleece, satin, etc. Bear in mind that if you plan on prewashing your fabric, you may need a little more fabric than is stated in the chart to account for shrinkage! In general I tried to list the requirements with at least 1-2 to spare. Note: For the bodice, underskirt, sleeves, and hood the number given in parentheses in this chart is the fabric requirement for the lining. It is actually the exact same amount that is given for the main coat. * You will also need a 1.5 strip of fabric about 20 long to make your button loops (if using). Size Bodice * Underskirt* Overskirt Sleeves* Hood* Bodice Ruffles Ties/ Waistband 3-6M 1/4 (1/4) 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 1/3 (1/3) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/4 6-12M 1/4 (1/4) 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/ M 1/3 (1/3) 2/3 (2/3) 1/2 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/3 2T 1/3 (1/3) 2/3 (2/3) 1/2 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/3 3T 1/3 (1/3) 2/3 (2/3) 1/2 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/3 4 1/3 (1/3) 3/4 (3/4) 2/3 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/4 1/3 5 1/3 (1/3) 3/4 (3/4) 2/3 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 1/3 6 1/3 (1/3) 1 (1) 2/3 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 (1/2) 1/2 1/3 7 1/2 (1/2) 1 (1) 2/3 1/2 (1/2) 1 (1) 1/2 1/3 8 1/2 (1/2) 1 (1) 2/3 1/2 (1/2) 1 (1) 1/2 1/3 *Numbers given in parentheses are lining requirements. **If you want to make a ruffled collar instead of the hood, you will need 1/8 yard or less of fabric for all sizes. Printing and Assembling the Pattern Pieces The best program to print this pattern from is Adobe Reader, which is available online for free. If you try to print from another program (like Preview for example) your pattern may not print correctly. If you received a link for this pattern via Dropbox, you must download the pattern before you print! Do not try to print the pattern pieces from the Dropbox Preview page or it will not print correctly! 4

5 Make sure that autorotate and center is checked and that scaling is not checked. If your printer gives you an option to set the scaling, set it to 100%, or none. These options may be hidden in drop down boxes, but make sure you find them. If your printer gives you an option to print actual size, make sure you choose it. Printer margins should be set to 0. If there is an option to print text and images, choose it. Some printers may give the option to choose paper source by PDF page size.do not check this box. And finally, make sure you have the orientation on your printer set to print in landscape orientation. Many printers will automatically orient the pattern correctly for you, with the auto portrait/landscape box checked. If you try to print this pattern in portrait mode, it will not fit together properly, and parts of the pattern will be cut off. If you live outside the US, print the pages to your usual standard page size (usually A4). The pattern lines may be shifted slightly but you should be able to match up the symbols and lines. I recommend printing out the first page before printing out the whole pattern. Measure the 1 square box if it does not measure 1 then you need to go back and check your printer settings again. Even if the 1 box is off by what seems like a very small amount (eg, 1/16 th inch) it can make a big difference in the sizing of the finished garment. Also make sure you do not measure the box starting at the metal tip at the beginning of your measuring tape (picture 1).the metal tip can add on 1/16 th inch! Instead, start from the 2 mark (picture 2). If the scaling is correct and all 4 sides of your rectangular border are there, you can go ahead and print the rest of the pattern. There should be a total of 16 pages with rectangular borders around each page. The first thing you want to do after you have printed them out, is cut along the outer edges of the gray lines that make up each rectangle on each page. Since the size lines extend all the way to the outer edges of the gray rectangles, it is very important that you leave them entirely intact, by cutting along their outer edges.otherwise your size lines may not line up exactly when you assemble the pattern. You will only need to cut along the gray lines with the half circles. If you look at each page, you will notice that they are all labeled with a letter. You are going to arrange the pages according to their letters, in the following orientation: Remember to arrange each page so that it is lying horizontally, and in the same configuration as shown above. 5

6 Align the half circles and tape together without overlapping the pages. Here is a photo of the assembled pattern: You may now cut out the appropriate size pattern pieces. You should have: - Front bodice lining - Back bodice lining - Front and back side bodice - Center front bodice - Center back bodice - Hood (if making) - Sleeve - Ruffle Curve Cutout - Waistband You are now ready to cut your fabric! Cutting the Fabric It is a good idea to prewash your fabric prior to cutting. This helps remove excess dyes, and also helps preshrink the fabric to avoid sizing surprises later on. However, my own personal preference is not to prewash (there, I said it!). I just like sewing with smooth, crisp, brand new unwashed fabric! Plus, if you sell custom clothing like I used to do, many clients expect brand new unwashed fabric to be used in the making of their clothing. Plus, the frayed edges that develop in the washing machine are annoying. But probably the most important reason I don t prewash is I m just too darned lazy. You can make your own decision regarding this matter. I don t think there is a right or wrong answer as it is all a matter of personal preference (although there are those that may disagree!). Remember you can omit the hood, and make a simpler coat if you like! Please note that the outer fabric will be referred to as main and the inner fabric as lining in this tutorial. 6

7 1) Bodice A) Side Front Bodice: Fold your main fabric over onto itself, wrong sides facing. Place the front and back side bodice pattern piece on top of the folded fabric, away from the fold. Pin in place, then cut around the edges of the pattern piece. This should result in 2 reverse/mirror images of each other. Repeat one more time with your main fabric. You should now have a total of 4 side bodice pieces, (2 and 2 reverse). B) Center Front and Back Bodice: Fold your fabric over onto itself, wrong sides together, and align the edge of the center back bodice pattern piece where it says fold with the folded edge of your main fabric. Pin in place, then cut around the edges. Do this one time only. The second picture shows what your center back bodice should look like. For the center front bodice, you are going to repeat the above process, only place your pattern piece away from the fold. Cut around the edges of the pattern piece, which should give you two reverse images. As above, you only need to do this one time. Transfer the stitching lines from the pattern pieces to the wrong side of the fabric if desired. As long as you are careful about keeping your seam allowances at 3/8 when sewing the main bodice, you will not need the marked stitching line. 7

8 C) Front Bodice Lining Fold your lining fabric over again, wrong sides facing, and place your front bodice lining pattern piece on top of the folded fabric, away from the fold. Pin in place and cut around the pattern piece. Note: if desired, you can use a 1 wide strip of lightweight fusible interfacing along the straight edges of the front bodice lining where the buttons and buttonholes will eventually go. This will help give this area more strength This photo shows where on the front bodice to fuse the strips of interfacing, with the interfacing strip shown in red: When you cut the strip of interfacing, I recommend leaving 3/8 of space along the top and side edges, and ½ of space at the bottom (see above picture). This will help prevent your seam from being unnecessarily bulky. Fuse the strip of interfacing to the wrong side of your back bodice lining according to the manufacturers recommendations. D) Back Bodice Lining Fold your lining fabric over onto itself, wrong sides facing. Place the back bodice lining pattern piece on top of the folded fabric, aligning the edge that says fold with the fold in the fabric. Pin in place, then cut around the edges of the pattern piece. 8

9 2) Sleeves Fold your main fabric over, wrong sides facing. Lay your pattern piece for the sleeve along the folded edge of the fabric and pin in place. Then cut around the edges of the pattern piece. Repeat one more time with your main fabric. Now do the same thing with your lining fabric so that you now have a total of 4 sleeve pieces: 2 in the main fabric, and 2 in the lining fabric. Transfer arrows along the curved edge of sleeve from the pattern piece to all 4 sleeve pieces, on the right side of the sleeve using your fabric pen/pencil (make sure to do it close to the edge of the fabric where the mark will be hidden in the seam allowance). The first photo illustrates where your sleeves should be marked. Alternatively, you can mark with pins as I have done in the second photo. You will be gathering your sleeves between the pins (or marks). 3) Hood Fold your main fabric over, wrong sides facing. Place your pattern piece for the hood onto the folded fabric, away from the fold, and pin in place. Cut around the edges of the pattern piece so that you now have 2 hood pieces in your main fabric. Repeat one more time, this time in your lining fabric. You should now have 4 hood pieces, 2 in your main fabric and 2 in your lining fabric. 4) Hood Ruffle Cut 2 pieces for your hood ruffle from the following chart (I usually use the same fabric that I am using for the lining). Size Length X Width 6-9M to 12-18M 32 X 2.5 2T to 6 33 X to 8 34 X 3 9

10 6) Skirt Cut the specified number of skirt pieces from the following chart. Please note that no lining pieces are needed for the overskirt. Size Back Underskirt: Cut 1 Main, Cut 1 Lining Length X Width Front Underskirt: Cut 2 Main, Cut 2 Lining Length X Width Back Overskirt: Cut 1 Main Length X Width Front Overskirt: Cut 2 Main Length X Width 6-9M 7.75 X X X 24 6 X M 8.5 X X X X M 9.25 X X X X T 10 X X X X 14 3T X X X X X X 15 9 X 29 9 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 17 7) Ties Cut 2 from the following chart. Size Length X Width 6-9M 3.25 X M 3.5 X M 3.75 X 28 2T 4 X 30 3T 4.25 X X X X X X 36 8) Waistband (optional) You can add a waistband to the back bodice so your ties will have a continuous look around the coat. Here is what the waistband looks like: 10

11 However, you can also skip the waistband in back and simply add the ties. You can then choose to tie them in front or in back of the coat. You are going to cut 1 waistband with the pattern piece provided. 9) Bodice Ruffles The following chart gives the dimensions for the ruffle strips for the bodice. After the strips are cut, you are then going to use the pattern piece titled ruffle curve cutout to cut each strip so that it is tapered on one or both ends (depending on the size). To do this, follow the instructions given after the chart. For sizes 5 and up, you will have to sew two strips of fabric together for each ruffle. The bodice ruffle uses two equal size strips.this requires a bit more fabric, but avoids having a seam in the middle of the bodice. Note: If using a serger to finish the ruffle edges, subtract ½ from the width of each strip. Cut the specified number of strips from the following chart. Size Length X Width 6-9m 36 X 2.5 Cut m 37 X 2.75 Cut m 38 X 2.75 Cut 2 2T 40 X 3 Cut 2 3T 42 X 3 Cut X 3.25 Cut X 3.25 Cut X 3.25 Cut X 3.5 Cut X 3.5 Cut 4 Now you are going to use the pattern piece titled ruffle curve cutout to cut the curves (tapered ends) into your ruffle strips. - For sizes 6-9m to 4, fold each of your two ruffle strips over the short way and align the short ends (1 st picture). Place the pattern piece on top of the folded over ruffle strip, and align the short end of the pattern piece with the short ends of the folded over ruffle strip and pin in place (picture 2). Cut along the edge of the curve where it reads cut here This is what your ruffle strip should look like on both ends (picture 3). 11

12 - For sizes 5 and up, your are going to use the ruffle curve cutout piece to cut curves in one end only of each of your 4 ruffle strips. If there is a direction to your print, make sure each ruffle strip within the pair is a mirror/reverse image of the other. The easiest way to accomplish this is to place each pair of ruffle strips together, right sides facing, and align the short ends. Lay the pattern piece on top of the ruffle strips, aligning the short end of the pattern piece with the short ends of the ruffle strips. Cut along the edge of the pattern piece on the curved edge that says cut here. Repeat this process to cut the curves into your other pair of bodice ruffle strips. You should now have 4 strips with one tapered end each. 10) Button Loops (skip if making buttonholes) If you dislike making buttonholes like I do, you can make these easy little loops that will take their place! For all sizes you will need to cut one strip of fabric that will be folded up into bias tape. The bias tape will later be sewn closed, then cut into smaller pieces to fit your buttons. I recommend choosing buttons between 0.75 and 1.5. Consider using smaller buttons on a smaller coat, and larger buttons on a larger coat. How many buttons will comfortably fit on your coat depends somewhat on button size and somewhat on the size coat you are making. A general guideline for 1 buttons is 3 buttons on the bodice for sizes 6-9m to 6, and 4 buttons on the bodice for sizes 7 and 8. If you are going to be placing buttons down the length of the skirt as well, I recommend an additional 3 buttons for sizes 6-9 months to 6, and an additional 4 buttons for sizes 7 and 8. You can make your own decision on this matter, there are no hard and fast rules on how many buttons to use! Button Size Button Loop Strip: 8 Buttons Button Loop Strip: 6 Buttons Length X Width Button Loop Strip: 3 Buttons Length X Width X X X X X X X X X X X X

13 11) Ruffled Collar If you want, you can choose to make a ruffled collar instead of the hood. Here is what it looks like: Cut one strip from the following chart: Size Length X Width 6-9M/9-12m 25 X m/2T 28 X 2 3T/4 32 X /6 36 X /8 40 X 2.5 Making the Coat - All seam allowances are 3/8 unless otherwise noted. Basted seams are usually ¼ - Always back stitch at the beginning and end of a seam EXCEPT when gathering. - The terms top sewing and top stitching may be used interchangeably in this tutorial. Always top stitch at 1/8 from your seam, unless otherwise directed. Step 1: Pressing First you will need to press all of your pieces really well with your iron, preferably with the steam function on. I also find it easiest to press all of the creases for the folded hems for the bodice ruffle strips before I start sewing (skip if using a serger). You should NOT have to press them again after the ruffle strips are sewn together (only size 5 and up need to be sewn together). A) Bodice Ruffles: To create a folded hem in each bodice ruffle strip, fold one of the long curved edges of each ruffle strip to the wrong side ¼ and press. Then fold over another ¼ and press again. Repeat this process for all of your bodice ruffle strips (you should have either 2 or 4). 13

14 B) Hood Ruffle: Fold each of your hood ruffle strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing and press. C) Ruffled Collar: You are going to press a crease down the center of your collar ruffle strip, wrong sides facing, exactly as is described in the previous step for the hood ruffle. D. Button Loops (skip if making buttonholes): Take your buttonhole strip and press it in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing. 14

15 Unfold the strip and place it wrong side up in front of you. Fold one long edge toward the central crease and press (picture 1). Now fold the other long edge toward the central crease and press (picture 2). Now press in half, down the central crease again. E) Waistband: Grab your waistband and fold over the top long edge to the wrong side ¼ and press. 15

16 F) Overskirt Press a folded hem into both front overskirt pieces, and the back overskirt piece. To do this, lay each piece, wrong side up on your ironing surface. Fold the lower raw edge to the wrong side ¼, press, then fold over another ¼ and press again. Time to start sewing! Step 2: Sewing the Bodice Ruffle Strips: Sizes 5 and Up Only If you are making a size 5 or above, the first thing you need to do is sew together the two strips that make up each bodice ruffle. Lay two reverse images right sides together and line up and pin the wider of the two short ends. These ruffles are from a different project but the principle is the same. Sew the ends together, making sure to have the creases for the folded hem in the unfolded position. Then set your sewing machine to do a tight zig zag stitch. Zig zag stitch the raw edges. Turn to the right side, press the seam to the side and top stitch. Repeat this process to join your other two bodice ruffle strips. 16

17 Step 3: Attaching the Waistband to the Center Back Bodice Take your waistband piece with the crease at the top and place it wrong side down on your center back bodice. Align the bottom raw edge of the waistband with the bottom raw edge of the center back bodice and pin in place. Sew along the top edge, right next to the fold. Step 4: Joining the Shoulders of the Bodice Pieces Take one of your side front bodice pieces and lay it down on your work surface right side up (picture 1). Now take one of your side back bodice pieces (a reverse of the first) and lay it right side down on top of the first, right sides together, and matching shoulder seams (remember that the front and back side bodices are the same, unless you have chosen different fabrics). Pin the shoulder seams together (picture 2). Remember, all of the side bodice pieces should be in your main fabric! Sew the shoulder seam, then press the seam open. Repeat this process to join your other two side bodice pieces. 17

18 Now lay your center back bodice piece, right side up on your work surface. Lay one of the center front bodice pieces down on top of it, right sides facing, and align and pin the shoulders (1 st picture). Repeat this process to pin the other center front bodice piece to the center back bodice. Sew along both shoulder seams, then press the seams open. Now you are going to lay your back bodice lining down on your work surface, right side up. Lay one of your front bodice lining pieces on top of it, match the shoulders and pin in place. Repeat this process to pin the shoulder of the other front bodice lining piece to the other shoulder of the back bodice lining (these photos are from a different project but the principle is the same). 18

19 Now sew along the pinned edges, and press the seams open. Your lining should look like this: Step 5: Gathering and Attaching the Bodice Ruffles First you must sew the folded hem (that is if you do not have a serger) of your bodice ruffle strips. Stitch close to the inside edge of the fold on your bodice ruffles (this picture is for demonstration only I will be serging my ruffle s raw edges instead of using a folded hem). 19

20 Set your sewing machine tension to the lowest setting (0 on mine), and set your stitch length to the longest stitch length (5 on mine). Make sure to leave your thread ends long, and do not back stitch at the beginning and end of your stitching line. Stitch a line of gathering stitches 1/8 from the long raw edge of one of your ruffle strips. Tie the loose threads securely at one end, but not the other. Stitch another parallel line of gathering stitches 1/8 from the first, again leaving your thread ends long and tying the loose thread ends at one end (the same end that you tied the first line of gathering stitches). This photo is from a different project but the principle is the same. Now take the bottom threads (bobbin threads) at the end that you didn t tie, and gently pull up on both of them simultaneously to start your gathers (1 st picture). Keep gathering, pulling the gathers all the way to the other end of the ruffle strip. You are going to keep gathering until your ruffle strip is the same length as the joined side bodices (2 nd picture). Tie the thread ends securely and adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed. Pin the bodice ruffle to one of your joined side bodices, ruffle wrong side to bodice right side, and align the raw edge of the ruffle with the straight edge of the bodice. If you are doing a size 5 or larger, align the center seam of the ruffle with the shoulder seam of the bodices. Baste the ruffle to the joined side bodices. (Baste= sew, using a long stitch length). 20

21 Repeat this process to gather and baste your other bodice ruffle to the other joined side bodices. Step 3: Ties Fold one of your tie strips over the long way, right sides facing and pin (1 st picture). Leaving one end open for turning, sew along the pinned edge (2 nd picture). To achieve an attractive tapered end, stop sewing about 1 ½ from the other end of the tie for sizes 2T to 8, and 1 from the other end for size 6-9m to 18m. With your needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot (1 st picture), and pivot so that the presser foot is aimed toward the opposite corner of the tie (2 nd picture). 21

22 Lower the presser foot and sew across the tie to the opposite corner. Clip the excess fabric from the end of the tie. Turn the tie right side out, using your turning tool. I use the blunt end of a bamboo skewer. Once it is turned, press the tie well, then top stitch all the way around the outside edge. Repeat this process to make the other tie. Now lay one of your ties on top of the back center bodice, aligning its open raw edge with the side raw edge of the bodice. Align the top of the tie with the top edge of the waistband. There should be about ½ of space between the bottom edge of the tie and the bottom raw edge of the bodice. Pin in place. 22

23 Now, in the same way, pin the other tie to the other side of the center back bodice. Baste the ties to the center back bodice using a ¼ seam allowance (baste=sew, using a long stitch length). Note: On the finished dress, your ties will be slightly narrower than the waistband.. this is so they will be less likely to get caught in the seam allowance when sewing the bodice to the skirt. Step 4: Assembling the Main Bodice Now it is time to join your center bodice to the side bodices. Lay your center bodice down on your work surface, right side up. Note that the ties are missing in this photo, so just pretend that they are there! Now lay one of the side bodice pieces down on top of it, right sides facing, so that its edge with basted ruffle aligns with the raw edge of the center bodice. Match the shoulder seams and pin together. (Note: if you are using different fabrics for the front and back side bodices, make sure you have the center back bodice aligned with the side back bodice, and center front bodice aligned with the side front bodice!). 23

24 Now you are going to pin the other side bodice (with basted ruffle) to the center bodice in the same way. In this photo you can see that the ties are now present and are sandwiched in between the layers. Sew along the pinned edges, joining the center bodice to the side bodices. If you traced the stitching lines from the pattern pieces onto your bodice pieces, stitch over them. Otherwise, just make sure to sew with your 3/8 seam allowance. Press the ruffle seams toward the center of the bodice. Here is what your bodice should look like at this point. 24

25 Top stitch along the seams you just sewed. Step 5: Sleeves The first thing you need to do is gather the curved area of the sleeve, between the two marks you transferred earlier from your pattern piece (or marked with pins). Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and lowest tension. Leaving your thread ends long and without backstitching at the beginning and end of your seams, sew two parallel lines of gathering stitches, 1/8 from the raw edges of the sleeve and 1/8 apart, between the two marks (1 st picture). Tie the thread ends well on one end of each seam, but not the other. Do not pull on the loose ends yet to start gathering! Now find the center of the curved area of your sleeve and mark with a pin (2 nd picture). Lay your bodice in front of you, right side up, and spread it out so the entire armhole on one side is visible. Lay your sleeve down on top of it, right sides facing. Match the pinned area of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of your armhole and pin together. 25

26 Now match the corners of your sleeve (where the curved part ends) with the corners of your armhole (where the armhole ends, and the side bodice begins) and pin together (this photo is from a different project but the principle is the same). The 2 nd and 3 rd pictures show the corners I am referring to. Now pin the area of the sleeve curve without any gathering stitches, to the armhole of the bodice. Now pull on the loose threads of your gathering stitches to gather the remainder of the sleeve so it fits the armholes, and pin in place. It really is not necessary to tie the loose thread ends at this point since they are pinned in place and you will be stitching them in place momentarily. Repeat these steps to gather and pin your other sleeve to the other armhole. Return your sewing machine to its usual settings! 26

27 Sew the sleeves to the bodice along the pinned edges. Press the seam open and make some small clips into the seam allowance around the armhole to allow the seam to lie flatter (careful not to cut through any stitches!). There is no need to remove the gathering stitches unless they are visible. Repeat these steps to sew your two sleeve lining pieces to the bodice lining. Step 6: Sewing the Sides of the Bodice Lay your bodice in front of you, right side out. Fold your front bodice over onto the back bodice, right sides facing, and match and pin the under arm area. Now go ahead and pin the side edge of one of the front bodices to the corresponding side edge of the back bodice, and all the way up the sleeve. Repeat for the other side. Sew along the pinned edges on both sides of the bodice. The second picture shows a drawing of where to sew, with the stitches shown in red. Press the seams open. Repeat this process to sew up the sides of your bodice lining. 27

28 Step 7: Hood (skip if making the ruffled collar) Lay the main fabric hood pieces together, right sides facing and align and pin the curved edge, leaving the bottom and front unpinned. Sew along the pinned edge. The second picture shows where to sew, with the stitches shown in red. Then carefully clip the seam allowance along the curviest part of the hood.

29 Press the seam open (tricky!). I usually put on an oven mitt, place my fist inside the hood and press with the hood on my hand. Repeat these steps with your lining. Hood Ruffle: If making a hood ruffle, the first thing you want to do is sew the two ruffle strips together. Unfold the strips and place them right sides together. Align and pin the short ends on one side, then sew the pinned ends together. Press the seam open. Fold the ruffle strip again along the crease you pressed earlier. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and lowest tension. Leaving your thread ends long and without backstitching at the beginning and end of your seam, sew two parallel lines of gathering stitches along the raw edge of your joined hood ruffle strip. Remember that since the ruffle is folded, you will be sewing through two layers of fabric. Make the gathering stitches 1/8 apart and 1/8 from the raw edges of the ruffle strip. Tie the loose thread ends on one end but not the other. Pull on both bobbin threads at the end you didn t tie to start your gathers. Gather the ruffle until it fits the straight edge of your hood. Remember the ruffle needs to travel all the way around the front edge of the hood! 29

30 Tie the loose thread ends well, and adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed. Find the center of the ruffle and mark with a pin. Match the pinned area of the ruffle to the center seam on the right side of the hood. Pin the rest of the ruffle to the straight edge of the hood, aligning the raw edges. When you reach the ends of the ruffle, angle them so the ends trail off the edge of the hood (see picture). You also want to make sure that the ends of the ruffle do not travel beyond ½ from the very bottom of the hood (you need this space for your seam allowance when you attach the hood to the bodice). Baste the ruffle to the hood at ¼ from the raw edge (baste=sew, using a long stitch length). Now, with your hood lining right side in, place the lining around the main hood, right sides facing. Pin along the straight edge of the hood, with the ruffle sandwiched in between. The second picture shows where to place your pins. 30

31 Sew all around the front edge of the hood, along the pinned edge. Here is a diagram of where to sew, with the stitches shown in red. Turn the hood to the right side and press along the seam you just sewed. Top stitch along the front edge of the hood, 1/8 from the ruffle. Then top stitch the central seam, on both sides. (Tip: I find it helpful to pin the main hood to the lining hood along the central seam before top stitching.) You can baste the layers together along the bottom open edge of the hood, but this is optional. Your hood is done! 31

32 Now it is time to sew the hood to the bodice. First find the center of the neck opening on the back bodice and mark with a pin. Pin the bottom raw edge of the hood to the neck opening of the bodice, matching the hood s central seam to the pinned area of the back bodice, right sides facing. Pin the rest of the bottom raw edge of the hood to the neckline of the bodice. Baste the hood to the bodice. Note: the hood will not extend all the way around the neckline of the bodice..there should be about an inch of space between the edge of the hood and the edge of the front bodice on each side. There can be some variation here so do not panic if you have a little less or a little more space than an inch. Step 9: Ruffled Collar (skip if making the hood) Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and lowest tension. Leaving your thread ends long and without backstitching at the beginning and end of your seam, sew two parallel lines of gathering stitches along the raw edge of your ruffled collar strip. Remember that since the ruffle is folded, you will be sewing through two layers of fabric. Make the gathering stitches 1/8 apart and 1/8 from the raw edges of the ruffle strip. Tie the loose thread ends on one end but not the other. Pull on both bobbin threads at the end you didn t tie to start your gathers. 32

33 Gather the ruffle until is fits the neckline of the bodice. Yours will probably look better than mine does since I am using a very difficult fabric to gather (satin brocade)! Tie the loose thread ends well, and adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed. Pin the ruffle to the right side of the neckline, aligning the raw edges. Make sure to angle your ruffle at each end so that it tapers off the raw edge of the neckline. Also, it is important to leave ½ of space with no ruffle pinned to it at each end of the neckline. You will need this space for your seam allowance when you sew up the front edges of the bodice. The second picture shows a close up of what I mean. Baste the ruffle to the neckline using a ¼ seam allowance (baste=sew, using a long stitch length). The ends of the ruffle will get hidden in the lining later when it is sewn to the main jacket.but you can trim them off now if desired. 33

34 Step 10: Making the Skirts: Please note that the skirt lining consists of one layer only, while the main skirt consists of two layers: an underskirt and overskirt. A) Underskirt Lay your back underskirt down in front of you, right side up. Lay one of your front underskirts on top of it, right side down, and align and pin one of its shorter edges to one of the shorter edges of the back skirt. Pin the other front skirt piece to the back skirt in the same way. Sew along the pinned edges. Press the seams open. Repeat with the underskirt lining pieces. B) Overskirt Repeat the above steps to sew the back overskirt to the front overskirt pieces, making sure to have the creases of the folded hem unfolded as you sew. Do not press the seams open as was done for the underskirt. Set your sewing machine to the zig zag stitch setting (unless you have a serger). Zig zag stitch or serge the side seams of the overskirt. 34

35 Press the seams to the back, then top stitch. Now you can stitch the folded hem closed, right next to the edge of the fold. Step 11: Gathering the Skirts and Joining Them to the Bodice You have two options for gathering the skirts, depending on how full and poofy you want them to be. If you gather the overskirt and underskirt independently of each other, you will have fuller looking skirts. The down side is that it is a little more work (twice as much gathering). The other option is to baste the overskirt and underskirt together along the top raw edges, and gather them as one unit. In this tutorial, I will be gathering the overskirt and underskirt separately. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and lowest tension. Leaving your thread ends long and without backstitching at the beginning and end of your seams, sew to parallel lines of gathering stitches 1/8 from the top raw edge of the underskirt, and 1/8 apart. You will be starting your stitches on one front skirt, making your way around the entire top edge of the front and back skirts in the process, then ending your stitches at the edge of the other front skirt. Tie the thread ends well at one end, but not the other. 35

36 Pull up on the bobbin threads at the end you didn t tie to start your gathers. Gather the skirt until it fits the bottom edge of the bodice. Tie the thread ends well, then adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed. Now you are going to repeat this process to gather the overskirt and your underskirt lining. Now you need to baste the gathered overskirt and underskirt (main fabric) together. Lay the overskirt on top of the underskirt, overskirt wrong side to underskirt right side. Align the seams of the underskirt with the seams of the overskirt and pin together. Make sure the free edges of each skirt line up with each other. 36

37 Baste the skirts together along the pinned edge, using a ¼ seam allowance (baste=sew, using a long stitch length) Now lay your bodice in front of you, right side up. Lay your basted skirts on top of the bodice, right sides facing. Align the top raw edge of the basted together skirts with the bottom raw edge of the bodice, matching the side seams of the skirt with the side seams of the bodice and pinning in place. Make sure that your bodice ruffles are laying flat against the bodice and not folded over! 37

38 Sew along the pinned edge. Press the seam up, turn to the right side and top stitch. Repeat this process to sew your skirt lining to your bodice lining. Here is what my lining looks like. Step 12: Making and Attaching the Button Loops (skip if making buttonholes) Fold the button loop strip along the creases you pressed earlier. Sew the open edge of the button strip closed. ] 38

39 Now you are going to cut the button loop strip into either 3, 6 or 8 smaller pieces, depending on how many buttons you will be using (see page 12 for more information on how many buttons and what size). Note: If you are using dome shaped buttons, or any type of button that is thicker than average, I recommend adding ¼ to the following numbers in the right hand column. Button Size Length of Each Button Loop Fold one of your cut button loops over and match the ends with each other. Place it onto your right front bodice about 1 from the top edge. Match the raw ends of the button loop with the central raw edge of your right front bodice and pin in place. Note: In this picture I have placed my button loops on the left front bodice, which breaks from the American tradition of placing them on the right. You can actually place them on whichever side you prefer, but if you want to stick with what is customary for girls and women in the United States, place them on the right side! Boy s buttonholes/loops are usually placed on the left as I have done. Now fold over your next button loop in the same way and place it on your front bodice about 1 from the bottom edge of the bodice (1 st picture). Make sure that the ends of the button loop are right next to each other as you pin them on! Place the 3 rd button loop evenly spaced between the first two (2 nd picture). 39

40 If you are placing buttons on the skirt as well, continue pinning the additional loops to the skirt, spacing them evenly. I usually like to place my last button at least a few inches from the bottom of the coat, but you can make them travel all the way down your skirt if you like, using a few extra button loops and buttons. Baste the button loops in place, using a ¼ seam allowance. If you have elected to make buttonholes instead, you will be creating them at the very end, when the coat is fully assembled. Step 13: Sewing the Coat Lining to the Main Coat This is my favorite part of sewing this coat! You should at this point have a fully assembled main coat, with all the accessories basted or sewn to it: hood (or ruffled collar), button loops (if making) and ties. You should have a fully assembled lining, that is pretty much identical to the coat done in the main fabric, minus the accessories. Lay your main coat on your work surface, right side out. Have your sleeves, ties and hood angled toward the center of the coat so they will not get caught in the seam when you sew the lining and main coat together. Turn your lining right side out and lay it down on top of the main coat, right sides facing, and with the sleeves also angled toward the center. If making the ruffled collar, make sure it is laying flat against the main coat, and is sandwiched in between the lining and main coat. Pin around the entire outside edge of the coat, leaving a 5 inch opening at the bottom for turning. 40

41 Sew along the pinned edge, leaving the unpinned area at the bottom edge open/unsewn. This diagram shows where the coats are pinned together, and where to sew, with the stitches shown in red. Clip the corners to allow them to lie flat when turned. Make several clips into the seam allowance around the curve of the neckline, being careful not to cut through any stitches. If you are making the ruffled collar, trim off any excess ruffle poking out along the neckline if you haven t already. Do not turn the coat to the right side yet! Pull all 4 of the sleeves through to the wrong side as shown in this picture. 41

42 This next part is where people tend to get confused! It is not as difficult as it sounds. You are going to pin the end of each main sleeve to the end of each corresponding sleeve lining (eg, left main sleeve to left sleeve lining), right sides facing. Here is a diagram illustrating this concept. The pins are shown in red. To accomplish this, grab one of your main sleeves in one hand and the corresponding sleeve lining in the other hand. Bring them together so the ends of the sleeves meet each other. These sleeves are not attached to an actual coat and are for demonstration purposes only. Now pin them together, right sides facing, and match the seams. You will have to kind of roll each sleeve back a little to expose the right side of the sleeve. 42

43 Now you are going to sew along the pinned edge. Trust me, you will be able to turn the coat to the right side when done correctly! I know it seems impossible but it works. Here is what the sleeve looks like after the ends are joined, and before the coat is turned to the right side. Repeat for your other sleeve. Now the moment of truth is here you get to turn your coat to the right side through the opening in the bottom and see how beautiful it looks! Poke all corners out well and press. Ta da! 43

44 Press the edges of the opening in the bottom to the wrong side 3/8. Now you are going to top stitch along the entire outside edge of your coat, closing the opening in the process. Make sure the hood is flipped up as you top stitch and that your stitches are placed underneath the hood, not on top of it. Here are two drawings illustrating where to top stitch, with the stitches shown in red. Top stitch around the cuffs of the sleeves as well. You may also top stitch the side seams and around the armholes, if desired. Step 14: Buttonholes (if making) If you have elected to make buttonholes instead of button loops, you can make them now. You are going to be spacing them in the same way as described earlier when the button loops were sewn to the coat. I prefer to make my buttonholes horizontal but if you prefer to make them vertically, it is fine. Use the buttonhole function on your sewing machine to create the buttonholes, making them about ¼ to ½ from the edge of the left side of your coat. Use your seam ripper to carefully cut through the center of your buttonholes. 44

45 Now you can hand sew the buttons to left side of the coat. Note that the fit of the bodice can be modified slightly depending on button placement. The closer they are to the edges of your front bodice, the looser fitting your bodice will be. You are done! I like to have my daughter wear this with the sleeves folded up a bit to expose the pretty lining! If you have any questions about sewing this coat feel free to contact me through the Etsy message system: Just hit the contact button to send me a message. Copyright Foofoo Threads 2013 This pattern and tutorial is for use by the purchaser only, and is not to be shared, sold, copied or distributed. Of course you are free to sell the finished garment as you please. Thank you!! 45