Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG

Transcription

1 Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG Article No I II III IV V VI INCI name Preparation of Herbasol extracts General information from literature Main components Cosmetic applications Storage and safety Cosmetochem International AG Tel (0) Sennweidstrasse 44/46 Fax ++41 (0) CH Steinhausen/ Zug [email protected] Cosmetochem 1449 update / JT / ema 1/5

2 I INCI name Water/Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Seranoa Serrulata Fruit Extract N.B. For full INCI listing please see proprietary product declaration II Preparation of Herbasol extracts: The plants are treated by a cold extraction process with electronically controlled alternating macerations and percolations during hours. III General information from literature Botanical Family: Avecaceae/ Palmaceae Common names: Latin: Serenoa serrulata English: Saw Palmetto, Sabal French: Sabal German: Sägepalme Photo: Saw Palmetto History : Saw Palmetto has been used both as a food and medicinally for over a century and was first described in the medical literature in the 18 th century. Scientific classification Habitat 1,2,3 : Atlantic coast from South Carolina to Florida and Southern California. Grows in sand dunes and coastal regions 6. Description 1,2,3,6 : Plant grows from 3-4 metres high; leaves palmate divided into crown of large leaves 2.5 dm long; white flowers which grow in fragrant clusters. The petioles have spiny teeth. Produces fruit mm long, which are blue-black when they ripen in September December and contain single long oblong seed. Cosmetochem 1449 Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG update / JT / ema 2/5

3 IV Main components 2,3,4,12 The following substances are listed in the literature as actives of the plant: a. Essential oil : about % b. Fixed Oil : consisting of 75% free fatty acids caproic, caprylic (ca.1.3%), caprinic (ca. 1.8%), lauric (ca. 24%), linoleic (ca.3.6%), linolenic & myristic (ca. 11.6%), oleic (33.2%), palmitic (ca. 8.7%) and stearic acids, and 75% neutral substances including free or esterified sterols or esters of fatty acids with alcohols c. Sterols : including β-sitosterol, 3-o- β -D-glucoside, campesterol, stigmasterol, lupeol, 24-methylene-cycloartanol, hexacosanol and 1-octacosanol 2. There are relatively high levels of free and bound sitosterols in dry berries 3. d. Polysaccharides : S1, S2, S3 and S4, with varying ratios of glucose, galactose, mannose, fucose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid 2. One in particular composed of galactose, arabinose and uronic acid units with average molecular weight of 1000, e. Alcohols : including farnesol & phytol 2. f. Miscellaneous : Fruit contains carotene, lipase, tannin, resin 3. V Cosmetic applications The following cosmetic related activities of the plant are extracted from the literature: Properties Anti-inflammatory 2,4,7,8,12 Anti-acne 9 Suggested cosmetic applications* Products for problem and blemished skin Anti-oedema 12 Eye products Tonic 1,4 Diuretic 1,2,4,7 Oestrogenic effects 2 Tissue regeneration 1 Nourishing- contains high level of free fatty acids 2,3,4 Possible stimulation of hair regrowth in males 9 Skin care products : anti-ageing products & products for mature skin Hair care preparations * Disclaimer : These suggestions are given in good faith but it is recommended that all appropriate tests are carried out by our customers in their formulations. Recommended level of use: 2-10 %. Use in hair and skin care products. Cosmetochem 1449 Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG update / JT / ema 3/5

4 Hair regrowth :The only FDA-approved product for the treatment of male pattern baldness is minoxidil (Rogaine). One of the main causes of male baldness is the presence of 5-α-reductase, an enzyme which converts testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). The same phenomena causes Benign Prostate Hyperplasia (BPH) in males and there are a increasing number of clinical studies to show that Saw Palmetto is effective as a 5-α-reductase blocker and in treating the prostatis 9.10,11,12 There is a good chance therefore that it may be also be effective in the treatment of androgenic alopecia, although direct claims of this type cannot be made unless a product is FDA approved. Although no research has been officially conducted there is indirect evidence that Saw Palmetto could be effective in reducing the level of DHT which causes the reduction of the hair follicle and thus hair loss, when applied topically 9. Medicinal and other uses : Seminole indians 3,8 and indigenous people of Florida 2 used the seed for food and it was a survival food of early settlers 2. Flowers used as source of honey 3. Fruit used to aromatise cognac 3. Used as a dietary supplement, primarily as an endocrine and anabolic agent 2. Used in complementary medicine to treat prostate problems, especially hypertrophy 1,2. The National Institute of Health in the US is due to spend $29 million over next 7 years to study the efficacy of saw palmetto on prostatic hyperplasia 5. In Germany the Commission E, a panel of medical and pharmacy experts within the German government, has approved the use of Saw palmetto for early stages of BPH at a dosage of 320 mg/day. Fruit traditionally considered, expectorant, sedative diuretic, anti-inflammatory, also used for coughs, colds, irritated mucous membranes 1,2,3, sore throats, asthma, chronic bronchitis, as a uterine and vaginal tonic 2. Also used for infertility, painful periods amd lactation in women. Folk remedy for cancer 2,3. Palmetto berries have also been attributed with aphrodisiac properties 3. References 1. Grieve, M. (1971) A Modern Herbal, vols. I & II, publ. Dover Publications Inc. 2. Leung, A.Y. & Foster, S: (1996) Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients used in Food and Cosmetics 3. Duke, James A. (1985) Handbook of Medicinal Herbs, publ. CRC Press Inc. 4. Wren, R.C. (1988) Potter s New Encyclopedia of Botanical Drugs & Preparations, publ. Daniel Co. Ltd. 5. Herbs in the News: Butterbur, Saw Palmetto and Pygeum. American Herbal Products Association Update, January 30 th, Thompson, William A.R. (1978) Healing Plants A Modern Herbal 7. Dr Duke s Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Databases Citrus aurantifolia HerbMed database produced by Alternative Medicine Foundation Tenover, J.S. (1991) Prostates, pates and pimples. The potential medical uses of steroid 5- α- reductase inhibitors. Endocrinol. Metab. Clin. North Am. (4) : Wilt, T.J. et al. (1998) Saw Palmetto Extracts for the treatment of benign prostatic hyperplasia: a systematic review. Journal American Medical Association, 208 (18) Sultan, C et al. (1984) Inhibition of androgen metabolism and binding by a liposterolic extract of Serenoa repens B in human foreskin fibroblasts. J. Steroid Biochem. 20: Bruneton, J. (1993) Pharmagnosie : Phytochimie Plantes médicales. 2 nd edn. pub. Lavoisier. Cosmetochem 1449 Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG update / JT / ema 4/5

5 VI Storage and safety Storage: We recommend storing this Herbasol Extract at 4-25 C, protected from direct sun light. Maximum recommended storage time: According to the certificate of analysis (between 6 and 12 month) when kept in original sealed cans or drums. Once the container is opened, the product has to be handled with care to avoid microbiological contamination. Safety for Use: We affirm to the best of our knowledge and belief the compatibility and non-toxicity of this product. It is safe for use at normal levels in skin and hair cosmetics. Nevertheless, this statement does not release the producer of the finished cosmetic product from the responsibility of conducting any compatibility tests required by local legislation. Options: On request, most of our Plant Extracts are available in the following variations: - Herbasol Extract PG (aqueous-glycolic) - water soluble - Herbasol Extract IPM (isopropyl myristate) - oil soluble - Herbasol IPA (isopropylalcohol) - Herbasol Distillate - Herbasol Fruit & Herbal Vinegars - Herbamilk o/w emulsions - Herbasec Dry Powders - Customised Cosmetochem 1449 Sabal (Saw Palmetto) Herbasol Extract PG update / JT / ema 5/5