experience uruguay Produced by Lonely Planet Magazine for the Uruguay Ministry of Tourism

Transcription

1 experience uruguay Produced by Lonely Planet Magazine for the Uruguay Ministry of Tourism

2 The traditions of the gaucho (cowboy) are celebrated throughout Uruguay 2 3

3 Many traditional estancias (ranches), such as San Pedro de Timote, are now open to visitors Editor, Lonely Planet Magazine Peter Grunert Supplement editor Christa Larwood Contributions from Gregor Clark Designer Dominic Allen Photographs Matt Munro Advertising manager Ben Gardner Publishing director Alfie Lewis Print production controller Fiona Potter Printer Ancient House Press experience uruguay experience uruguay Tucked between Brazil and Argentina, the nation of Uruguay is a land of great beauty and diversity. From the rolling cattle country where gauchos roam to pristine beaches, stately colonial architecture and the lively capital of Montevideo, which rings with the sound of tango music and bursts into Carnaval each year, Uruguay seems to have all the best bits of South America distilled into one small place. Let us introduce you to the top experiences to be discovered. This guide is brought to you by Lonely Planet Magazine, which is published by Immediate Media Company London Ltd on behalf of BBC Worldwide Ltd, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ ABOUT THIS SUPPLEMENT Lonely Planet Magazine has produced Experience Uruguay for the Uruguay Ministry of Tourism. The Uruguay Ministry of Tourism has had no inappropriate influence over Lonely Planet Magazine content. The views expressed are those of Lonely Planet Magazine, told without fear or favour. Peter Grunert, Editor, Lonely Planet Magazine 4 5

4 2 experience uruguay Top 8 Experiences 1 Carnaval In February, Montevideo bursts into a month of drumming and dance (p10) Tango Sultry dance and music fill the squares and clubs of the capital said to be tango s joint city of birth (p14) 3 Asado Get prepared for a feast of perfectly grilled beef in Uruguay s favourite culinary tradition (p18) 4 Wine With small, family-run bodegas, Uruguay produces high-quality wine that is gaining the world s attention (p22) Architecture Wander through the streets of Colonia s UNESCO-listed Barrio Histórico (p26) 6 Gauchos Celebrate the proud heritage of the gaucho and learn his traditional skills in a luxurious country estancia (p30) 7 Coast Uruguay s east coast is home to some of South America s prettiest and most glamorous beaches (p36) Nature Head to Cabo Polonio for a bohemian return to nature, with pristine beaches and sea lions playing on the rocks (p42) 7

5 Uruguay: The Basics W ith just 3.3 million people, Uruguay is the smallest Spanish-speaking country in South America. Still, it s not so small by European standards: its area of 68,000 square miles is greater than England and Wales combined. The native Charrúa people originally inhabited the land, but Uruguay was settled by both the Portuguese and the Spanish over the 16th and 17th centuries. Through the 19th century, it rose to be one of the most prosperous countries in the region, thanks to its wool and livestock trade, and today it is rated among the most ecologically friendly and most liveable countries in South America. Uruguayans retain some of their Latino roots, but pride themselves on being the opposite of the hotheaded type the emphasis here is on enjoying life at an easy pace, with simple pleasures such as good food, football, music and dancing. Often overwhelmed by its giant, attention-grabbing neighbours, Uruguay can be overlooked by visitors to the region, but there is a benefit of being little-known it can offer a delightfully low-key, hospitable experience where visitors can melt into the background and experience everyday life without another tourist in sight. 8

6 Best for Carnaval Put on your dancing shoes it s that time of year, when music, dance and drumming take over Montevideo C ities across South America are known to erupt into Carnaval during February, but nobody does it quite like the Uruguayans, who keep up the festivities for 40 days, making this one of the longest festivals in the world. Montevideo s streets burst into life: giant flags swoop through the air, girls with towering feathered headdresses execute hip-shaking moves and gaudily dressed murgas perform satirical musical numbers. It seems that everyone, from small children to the elderly, come out for a month-long party. A feature is the celebrated Desfile de las Llamadas, an all-night parade of drumming that thunders through the Palermo and Barrio Sur districts, near Montevideo s Centro. This is candombe, a traditional drum style brought to Uruguay by African slaves in the 18th century a fact that s celebrated each year in the traditional black-painted faces among the drummers. Each drummer has a large, barrel-shaped drum called a tamborile strapped over his shoulder, using a stick and an open palm to create frenetic beats as the group winds its way through the streets. A joyous energy overtakes the city as parades pass and spectators follow, cheering and dancing to the rhythm. off-season beats To experience some Carnaval colour out of season, attend one of the informal candombe practice sessions that erupt in central neighborhood streets throughout the year. A good place to find these is at the corner of Isla de Flores and Gaboto in Palermo. Drummers usually gather around 7pm on Sunday nights, but if you show up a little late, just follow your ears. Lubolos paint their faces in a traditional celebration of Afro-Uruguayan culture 10 11

7 The streets become a noisy blur of colour during Carnaval, with many revellers wearing traditional masks make it happen l SEE: For more insight into one of the world s longest festivals, visit the Museo del Carnaval. Located opposite the port, the museum houses a wonderful collection of costumes, drums, masks, recordings and photos documenting the fascinating 100-plus-year history of Montevideo s Carnaval (admission 2.50; museodelcarnaval.org). l EAT & DRINK: Tras Bambalinas (meaning Behind The Scenes ) is a lively pub devoted to a Carnaval theme: the decor features giant papier-mâché masks, costumes and photos from Carnavals past, and there s live murga music a choral-percussive style typical of Montevideo s Carnaval. Settle in with a glass of wine and a plate of barbecued meat (trasbambalinas.com.uy). l STAY: The Don Hotel is a stylish boutique option in the heart of Carnaval territory in the Ciudad Vieja (Old City). Converted from a classic Art Deco building, the Don is located across from the historic Mercado del Puerto, but has cool modern design throughout and a beautiful rooftop pool (rooms from 95; donhotel.com.uy). A vibrant Carnaval mural adorns a wall near Montevideo s historic port 13

8 Best for Tango The dance of passion and its music are alive and well in Montevideo believed to be the joint city of its birth I t s a sunny day in the Plaza Zabala, and among the grand monuments and chatting passers-by, a couple begins to dance. Their upper bodies are held upright and close, their faces almost touching, while their lower bodies do most of the work the man s feet work quickly, the woman s hips swivel, her legs alternating in wide sweeps and quick kicks, sometimes between the man s legs. They rarely smile this is a serious business and a small crowd gathers, entranced. The sultry, passionate dance of the tango and its dramatic accompanying music are widely associated with Buenos Aires, but the Uruguayan capital of Montevideo has an equal hold on the title birthplace of tango, as the movement is said to have developed simultaneously in the two cities. Years of rivalry over the roots of tango led to Montevideo and Buenos Aires to recently win a joint UNESCO declaration celebrating the movement as a shared intangible cultural heritage. Not surprisingly, tango music and dancing are a popular feature of Montevideo s public life, whether on the streets or in local clubs or dance halls. Unlike the glitzy dinner shows found in Buenos Aires, Uruguay s tango is often a more earthy affair, with milongas where anyone with the skills to dance can join in this passionate, spectacular ritual. Tango is a way of life: dancers perform in the Ciudad Vieja s Plaza Zabala LEARN THE MOVES Tango is alive and well in Montevideo, but it is also known as one of the most difficult dances to master. Many visitors come to learn the craft of this dance of passion and Joventango is considered to be one of the best places to learn, offering classes for all levels, from beginner to expert (from 5 per class; joventango.org)

9 Tango dance halls are hidden in the Ciudad Vieja. RIGHT PAGE Dance often breaks out in public places make it happen l SEE: Just east of Tres Cruces bus terminal in Montevideo is El Tartamudo Café, one of the city s most famous music venues where milongas gatherings with tango dance and music are held. Other music styles performed here include jazz, blues and candombe (eltartamudo.com.uy). l DRINK: Since 1895, Bar Fun Fun, an informal venue in the Mercado Central, has been known for its famous uvita drink (a sweet drink tasting of raisins, made according to a top-secret recipe), and since the early 20th century it has been known for its tango. The King of Uruguayan/Argentine tango, Carlos Gardel, sang here in 1933, and today its tiny stage still hosts tango performers, as well as other forms of live music (barfunfun.com). l STAY: Plaza Fuerte Hotel is housed in a stately building near the Plaza Independencia, with red-carpeted marble stairs, decorative tile floors and dramatic views from its 5th-floor bar and terrace. Rooms have high ceilings; the suites some split over two levels, some with Jacuzzis are especially elegant (rooms from 75; plazafuerte.com)

10 Best for Asado With some of the best beef in the world on offer, it s no surprise that the Uruguayans have become masters of the barbecue Javier Maeso from Cabaña Verónica in the Mercado del Puerto tends to his asado I t s lunchtime and Montevideo s Mercado del Puerto is buzzing. Workers from the surrounding streets crowd in, drawn along the historic market s elegant halls toward the vast asados or barbecues, which are sizzling noisily and filling the air with the delicious aroma of chargrilled meat. This is a culinary institution in Uruguay the parrilla, or steak bar, where barbecuing is refined to an artform. Hissing and spitting on massive grills the size of billiard tables are racks of tira de asado (ribs), pork, lamb, offal, chorizo and blood sausage even some vegetables are thrown in for good measure but the real star here is beef, in sirloins, t-bones and other cuts too numerous to mention. Burly asadors tend to the spreads, turning the meat at just the right moment and hurling logs onto roaring wood fires before raking red-hot embers under the grills. The asado tradition was handed down by the gauchos, who would cook their freshly butchered beef over open fires, and this simplicity is echoed today: meat can be dressed with a dollop of delicious chimichurri, a garlic and parsley sauce, but most often it is given due reverence and savoured on its own. The art of asado is practised throughout the country in restaurants and in estancias, where the meat is still often grilled gaucho-style over an open fire pit, and if an asador has done a good job of cooking the meat, his efforts can be greeted with a hearty round of applause

11 Asado beef can be served with fries, chimichurri and sparkling wine The Mercado del Puerto has been serving platefuls of meat for 130 years make it happen l EAT: The Mercado del Puerto on the Ciudad Vieja waterfront is the classic place to eat in Montevideo. The densely packed parrillas here cater to every budget, with asadors competing to show off their obscenely large racks of roasted meat and veggies. Weekends are the best time to savour the market s vibrant, crowded energy, but lunching executives and tourists keep the place buzzing on weekdays, too (mercadodelpuerto.com). The more affordable and less touristy Mercado de la Abundancia (on the corner of San José & Aquiles Lanza), in the heart of downtown, features four low-key eateries surrounding an open space where locals come to tango, salsa and more. Los Leños Uruguayos is a tiny little restaurant in central Montevideo that's always a favourite with the business set. It has a good salad bar, and there s always a big rack of meat roasting on the fire at the front, with carnivores' delicacies such as rib-eye steak, chicken, lamb, kidney and calf sweetbreads (parrilla.com.uy). Since opening in late 2008, La Cavia parrilla has earned a devoted following for its classy but casual ambience, sidewalk seating and delicious piles of asado meat cooked over glowing embers, accompanied by fries and beer (26 de Marzo 1000; )

12 Best for Wine With traditions stretching back 250 years, Uruguay s familyrun vineyards and bodegas are creating extraordinary wines Uruguay s climate is similar to some of the best wine regions in Europe L experience uruguay ess than an hour s drive north of Montevideo, the landscape stretches into rolling plains corrugated with long rows of vines. This is the start of an expansive wine region that s home to dozens of rustic boutique bodegas offering some of the finest wines to be found in South America. Wine has been produced in Uruguay for over 250 years thanks to Spanish, Italian and French settlers bringing vines from their homelands yet it s only in the past couple of decades that the world has sat up and taken notice. The country enjoys a climate similar to the Bordeaux region in France, with warm summers, crisp cool winters, mild breezes and humidity, creating an Old World taste that s different to the better-known wines produced in Chile and Argentina. The local star is an earthy red wine called Tannat, though high-quality Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots are also widely produced. Scenic wine regions are spread across the country, from Rivera and Salto in the north to Colonia in the west, but most bodegas are concentrated in the south, including Canelones and San José. Best of all for the visitor, wineries are small, family-run bodegas. This ensures most Uruguayan wines are boutique and handmade, and you can taste wines created according to family traditions that have been passed down through the generations

13 The picturesque Bodega Bouza is owned and run by family members LEFT Volorer ipsum in et vulputpate minci blaor sum zzrit wiscipit nosto drinking tannat Tannat is a robust red grape that is grown in some parts of southwestern France, but it has been used to create Uruguay s signature wine. Throughout the country, Tannat wine is almost universally available, and is of excellent quality. Drinking Tannat involves a certain ritual: once poured into a glass, it should be left to sit for half an hour, then you must swirl the liquid carefully and inhale deeply. Only then may you sip the wine, but be sure to hold it in your mouth for several seconds to fully appreciate its tannin-rich flavour. make it happen l Eat and drink: The family-owned Bodega Bouza produces what are considered some of the country s best wines, including Tannat, Chardonnay and Merlot. Sample some of their award-winning tipples at the bodega s restaurant (pictured right), along with sizzling charcuterie meats and seafood dishes such as Patagonian toothfish (lunch from 30, including a tour of the winery; bodegabouza.com). l DO: Carmelo is a laid-back town of cobblestone streets south of Colonia del Sacramento. In early February the town hosts the Fiesta Nacional de la Uva (National Grape Festival). l Discover: For details on Uruguay s Los Caminos del Vino ( The Wine Road ), including details of boutique bodegas, see uruguaywinetours.com

14 Best for Architecture Fought over for centuries, Colonia del Sacramento tells a story through its perfect colonial buildings and plazas L ate afternoon sunshine slants into the western city of Colonia del Sacramento and the streets are set alight. Rows of colourful historical houses with decorative ceramic tiles take on a buttery hue as strolling couples wander through the cobbled streets toward the mighty Rio de Plata. Just to add to the visual appeal, a convoy of stylish 1950s American cars drives by. Welcome to the Barrio Histórico of Colonia del Sacramento a UNESCO-listed collection of some of the prettiest colonial architecture in South America. The sunny Plaza Mayor and its surrounding streets seem very calm today under the shade of sycamore trees, but this area was the site of a long and hard-fought battle between two great world powers. Colonia was founded by the Portuguese in 1680, and it was of great strategic importance largely for smuggling goods to and from Spanish-controlled Buenos Aires, located just across the Rio Plata so it was hotly contested by Spain. Control of the town changed hands back and forth for well over a century before Uruguay claimed its independence in These struggles left a unique combination of Spanish and Portuguese colonial architecture that s still here to be enjoyed, although today there is little evidence of tension in the Barrio Histórico as the sky turns a deep orange and the sun sets over the water. The colourful district is home to a number of classic American cars (above left) 26 27

15 Drinks and tapas under the trees at laid-back bar, El Drugstore Colonia s history is told through its stately 18th- and 19th-century architecture make it happen l EAT: Lentas Maravillas is as cosy as a friend s home a perfect spot to kick back during the day with tea and cookies or for an evening meal with a glass of wine. Flip through an art book from the library and enjoy the incomparable river views, either from the upstairs fireplace room or the chairs on the grassy lawn below. Delicious nightly dinner options vary according to season and the chef s whim (Santa Rita 61; ). l DRINK: El Drugstore, a corner bar on Plaza de Armas, is Colonia s most enjoyable, funkiest nightspot. It often hosts live music and has vividly coloured walls, an open kitchen, fridges painted with clouds and elephants, and tables that spill out onto the cobblestones. Half of the 24-page menu is devoted to drinks; the other half to tapas (Portugal 174; ). l STAY: Located near the river in the heart of historic Colonia, the Posada Playa Mayor comprises two colonial houses. The stone-walled, high-ceilinged 19th-century Spanish rooms surround a peaceful courtyard with a fountain, while the adjoining 18th-century Portuguese structure houses beautifully decorated common areas (doubles from 130; posadaplazamayor.com). l GET THERE: Colonia is located 110 miles east of Montevideo, and is around a 2.5-hour drive from the capital. Regular buses depart from Montevideo s Tres Cruces bus terminal and arrive at the Colonia bus terminal, conveniently located near the port

16 Best for Gauchos Live like a gaucho at a traditional ranch, riding horses and sipping mate while overlooking the rolling cattle country he romantic figure of a solitary gaucho (a South TAmerican cowboy) riding off into the sunset is a symbol very dear to Uruguay s heart. It speaks of a simpler time, in the 18th and 19th centuries, when these cattlemen lived an independent existence herding fat, free-range cattle on the vast open plains and helping to create a livestock industry that would see Uruguay become one of the continent s most prosperous countries. The standard gaucho costume of colourful poncho and wide-brimmed felt hat, along with their taciturn, salt-of-the-earth nature, continue to play an important role in Uruguay s cultural identity. While the nomadic gaucho, like the Wild West cowboy, is now a thing of the past, many hardy horsemen still work for estancias ranches with large land holdings and retain their proud traditions. In recent years, a number of estancias have begun to offer guest accommodation, so visitors can stay in graceful 19th-century farmhouses and ride horses, learn the skills of cattle herding, enjoy fresh grilled beef from an asado barbecue over a fire pit and try the caffeine-rich tea favoured by gauchos for hundreds of years mate (see p34). As most estancias are located in Uruguay s interior, it also provides a perfect opportunity to go beyond the better-known areas along the coast and encounter not just a taste of the gaucho heritage but also the beautiful countryside itself. experience uruguay Cattle herder Carlos Ferreira rides the gaucho s traditional steed: the criollo horse, native to Uruguay gauchos in the city To learn more about life as a traditional rancher without leaving the big city, visit the Museo del Gaucho y de la Moneda in Montevideo. The exhibits feature a range of artefacts from Uruguay s gaucho history, including horse riding gear and silver work in whimsical designs (admission free; Av 18 de Julio 998; )

17 The estancia San Pedro de Timote is one of Uruguay s most luxurious ranches make it happen l STAY: San Pedro de Timote has a remarkable setting, near Cerro Colorado (around 100 miles north of Montevideo), amid beautiful cattle country. It has a complex of historic structures, some dating back to the mid-1800s: a graceful white chapel, a courtyard with soaring palm trees, a library and a circular stone corral. Common areas feature parquet wood floors, big fireplaces and comfy leather armchairs, while two pools and a sauna add to the luxurious feel (from 160 per double, including all meals and activities; sanpedrodetimote.com). Surrounded by open country nine miles upriver from Mercedes (around 160 miles northwest of Montevideo) Estancia La Sirena is one of Uruguay s oldest estancias. The spacious 1830s ranch house, with its cosy parlour and fireplaces, makes a perfect base for relaxation and excursions to the nearby river, on foot or horseback. The homemade food, often cooked on a giant outdoor grill, is delicious (rooms with full board except alcohol and activities 170; lasirena.com.uy). For a first-hand look at real gaucho life, head to Yvytu Itaty, a working estancia 30 miles southwest of Tacuarembó (around 200 miles north of Montevideo). Hosts Pedro and Nahir Clariget receive guests in their unpretentious ranch-style home and escort them around the domain on horseback, pausing to point out armadillos. Back at the ranch, tasty home cooking includes savoury meat stews and traditional desserts ( 105 per double; viviturismorural.com)

18 Making the gaucho s traditional drink is a complex process Uruguay s favourite drink One of the benefits of staying in a traditional estancia is the chance to take part in one of Uruguay s most sacred rituals the drinking of mate (pronounced mah-tay). This hot, bitter tea is made from the dried, chopped leaf of the yerba plant a relative of the common holly plant and is consumed throughout the country with a devotion akin to a religion. Preparing the herby drink is a daily event in private homes, and outdoors from the streets of Montevideo to the beautiful eastern beaches locals can be seen toting Thermoses of hot water to make mate at any time of day. Making mate is not a simple affair. Traditionally, the cebador (server) fills the communal mate gourd (often made from a hollowed-out calabash gourd) almost to the top with yerba, shaking and rolling it to get the leaves in just the right place, then pouring heated, but not boiling, water into the vessel. The gourd then travels clockwise around a group of drinkers, who sip the liquid through a bombilla a silver straw with a bulbous filter at its lower end that prevents the yerba leaves from entering the tube. When you take part in this ritual, make sure you don t stir the mate with the bombilla, as this will allow herbs into the straw, and make sure you re thirsty each person must drink the gourd dry before passing it back to be refilled for the next person

19 Best for Coast Hit Uruguay s east coast for the glamorous port of Punta del Este and a stretch of perfect sandy beaches Mario Irarrazabal s enormous Hand in the Sand sculpture grabs Playa Brava t s mid-morning in the port town of Punta del Este, and the Ibeachfront is already filling with people. Some are here to enjoy the broad stretches of golden sand and play in the surf, while others simply sit back and watch the glamorous people wander by. Known as the Hamptons of South America, Punta del Este is teeming with models and celebrities, and local gossipmongers keep regular tabs on who s been sighted where. With its elegant seaside homes, yacht harbour, exclusive clubs, pricey hotels and glitzy restaurants, this is easily the most stylish and most expensive place in Uruguay. While slick designer stores and chic nightspots are ever-popular in Punta, beaches are the big daytime draw, and there are over a dozen to choose from. The most popular is Playa Brava, home to the town s most famous landmark the monstersized hand emerging from the sands, La Mano en la Arena (Hand in the Sand). Sculpted in iron and cement by Chilean artist Mario Irarrazabal, the hand exerts a magnetic attraction over visitors children and adults alike clamber on and off its digits, posing for photographs under the bright midsummer sun. Up and down Punta s beaches and boulevards, and in the port filled with millionaires yachts, is a great sense of fun, glitz and glamour a world away from the stretch of sleepy towns and natural, white-sand beaches that continue along Uruguay s east coast

20 Punta del Este port often hosts the yachts of the rich and famous. TOP RIGHT Sunset at Casapueblo make it happen l DO: There s no better way to drink in the glamour of Punta del Este than to hit the town after dark. The most fashionable clubs are clustered in Punta s port area. Try Moby Dick (mobydick.com.uy) a classic bar near the yacht harbour, Soho (sohopuntadeleste.com), a dependable year-round dance spot pumping out techno beats, or Medio y Medio, a jazz club and restaurant near the beach in Punta Ballena that brings in performers from Uruguay, Argentina and Brazil (medioymedio.com). l EAT: Owned by a fishing buddy of local artist Carlos Páez Vilaró and decorated with some of his work, Lo de Charlie is one of Punta s premier restaurants. The endless culinary delights include gazpacho, risotto and homemade pasta, but the real star is the freshly caught seafood, ranging from tuna to baby squid and even stingray (Calle 12, No 819; ). l STAY: For a fittingly glitzy accommodation option, try Casapueblo. Artist Carlos Páez Vilaró s architectural masterpiece is like a whimsical Mediterranean fantasyland. Rooms descend nine levels numbered zero to negative nine to a brilliant turquoise, mosaic-floored pool surrounded by a vast sun terrace (rooms from 115; clubhotelcasapueblo.com). For a quieter option, try Hotel L Auberge located around five minutes drive from the heart of Punta del Este, but just a two-minute walk from the beach where a traditional building and carved wooden antiques combine with comfortable modern touches (rooms from 105; laubergehotel.com). l GET THERE: Most travel to Punta by road from Montevideo, approximately 90 miles to the east. Regular buses drive the 2.5-hour journey from Montevideo and arrive at the Punta bus terminal (on the corner of Calle 32 & Bulevar Artigas)

21 Uruguay s east coast beaches remain one of the country s greatest draws for visitors find a perfect east-coast beach The gorgeous 210-mile sweep of beaches, dunes, forests and lagoons stretching northeast from Montevideo to the Brazilian border is one of Uruguay s national treasures, and there are a number of seaside towns and perfect beaches to discover. Faro José Ignacio The rich and famous flock to this increasingly fashionable little beachside town with a pretty lighthouse, 18 miles east of Punta. If your goal is to luxuriate by the sea, it s hard to find a nicer place than La Posada del Faro (rooms from 160; posadadelfaro.com). The pricier rooms have fireplaces and ocean-view terraces. For fine beachside dining, Parador La Huella (paradorlahuella. com) specialises in grilled fish and clay-oven-fired pizza. La Paloma Placid La Paloma, 28 miles east of Faro José Ignacio, is less developed, less expensive and much less crowded than Punta del Este. It has attractive sandy beaches, great surfing and almost every important amenity except for Punta s hyperactive nightlife. The best surfing beaches are Los Botes, Solari and Anaconda southwest of town, and La Aguada to the north. For a central location and overall comfort, Hotel Bahía is hard to beat. Rooms are clean and bright, and some have balconies (rooms from 60; elbahia.com.uy/hotel). Eat downstairs at the Bahía Restaurant, or try Rotisería Chivitería 7 Candelas (Av Delfín s/n; ). This unpretentious local hangout serves great chivitos (huge beef sandwiches). Eat in the cheerful interior room or on the tree-shaded front patio. La Pedrera Less than five miles from La Paloma, beautifully sited La Pedrera is popular with artists, surfers and families. The main street entering from Ruta 10 dead-ends atop a bluff with magnificent long views north towards Cabo Polonio and south towards La Paloma. Classy and comfortable Posada del Barco has sweeping views of La Pedrera s southern beach (Playa del Barco; ). Perched atop the bluffs overlooking the Atlantic, Costa Brava is all about seafood accompanied by an unbeatable view ( )

22 Best for Nature Leave the rat race behind and head to one of Uruguay s wildest spots for a secluded natural escape U p the coast from the designer shops and thumping nightlife of Punta del Este is one of Uruguay s most peaceful and naturally beautiful spots: Cabo Polonio. Here, a broad sandy beach curves out to a rocky point, where groups of raucous sea lions clamber and dive into the water below. These slick, playful creatures make up one of South America s largest sea lion colonies, and the waters off this coastline are home to a rich variety of other marine life, including whales, dolphins and penguins. Sea lions aren t the only residents on land here. Wooden houses and beach shacks are scattered along the shoreline, most without electricity or running water, and many with painted murals on the walls and colourful flags snapping in the breeze. Cabo Polonio is a nature reserve officially protected by SNAP (Sistema Nacional de Areas Protegidas de Uruguay), and there is no road to this beach visitors must arrive on rugged 4x4 trucks that traverse a sandy trail. With no traffic, few electrical distractions, pristine white-sand beaches and a menagerie of wildlife, Cabo Polonio provides the perfect place to escape modern life and return to nature. experience uruguay Hundreds of sea lions gather each day to play below Cabo Polonio s lighthouse the road to cabo polonio It s a little tricky to get to Cabo Polonio because there are no roads leading into the village, but it is well worth the effort to get there. Buses stop on the main road (Ruta 10), at a small access road, where 4x4 trucks offer 30-minute rides across the dunes to Cabo Polonio. Alternatively, you can walk from the bus stop but be aware it s a strenuous 4.5-mile hike taking about two hours, so be sure to take some water for the journey

23 Cabo Polonio is home to one of South America s largest sea lion colonies experience uruguay make it happen l DO: Wildlife viewing is excellent year-round. Below the lighthouse, sea lions and South American fur seals frolic on the rocks every month except February although they sometimes show up then as well. You can also spot southern right whales just offshore from late August to early October, and penguins on the beach in July. l EAT: In business for nearly half a century, Posada Mariemar is right on the beach, and all rooms have ocean views. The restaurant serves tasty fish and homemade buñuelos de algas (seaweed fritters). It s a few hundred metres north of the lighthouse; just look for the beautiful angel mural out the front ( ). l STAY: In such a small community as Cabo Polonio, there are few accommodation options, but La Perla del Cabo offers neat rooms right on the beach, with hammocks and a sunny deck to relax on. Be sure to ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the water (double rooms from 70; laperladelcabo.net). The rustic lighthouse is one of few permanent buildings at Cabo Polonio 44 45

24 Travel Details All the basic information you need to know for a trip to Uruguay, from transport to currency and weather The stately Palacio Salvo overlooks central Montevideo s Plaza Independencia Getting there and away Flights There are some direct international flights to Montevideo, but most airlines connect through Buenos Aires. Pluna, Sol and Aerolíneas Argentinas fly frequently between Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Nonstop service from Montevideo to other international destinations is provided by Pluna (to Madrid and several South American cities), American Airlines (to Miami), Iberia (to Madrid), LanChile (to Santiago), TACA (to Lima), COPA (to Panama City), Sol (to Rosario) and TAM (to São Paulo). Ferries Buquebus runs daily high-speed ferries direct from Montevideo to Buenos Aires, which usually take around three hours (buquebus.com.uy). Getting around Car Visitors to Uruguay who are staying less than 90 days need only bring a valid driver s licence from their home country. Uruguayan drivers are extremely considerate, and even busy Montevideo is quite sedate compared with Buenos Aires. Drivers are expected to use headlights in daytime on all highways (people will flash their lights to remind you if you forget). Outside of Montevideo, most intersections have neither a stop sign nor a traffic light; right of way is determined by who reaches the corner first. This can be nerve-wracking for the uninitiated! Keep an eye out for livestock and wildlife: even in Montevideo s busy downtown, horse-drawn carts still operate, hauling trash or freight. Bus Throughout Uruguay, buses are known to be comfortable, fares are reasonable and distances are relatively short. Buses leave frequently for destinations all around the country, so reservations are usually unnecessary except during holiday periods. Visas Nationals of Western Europe, Australia, the USA, Canada and New Zealand are issued with a 90-day tourist card upon arrival, renewable for another 90 days. Other nationals may require visas. For extensions, visit the Dirección Nacional de la Migración in Montevideo, or local offices in border towns (dnm.minterior.gub.uy). Language Spanish is the official language and is universally understood throughout Uruguay. Along the Brazilian border, many people speak both Spanish and Portuguese, or speak Portuñol, an unusual hybrid of the two. One common influence from Brazilian Portuguese is the Uruguayan usage of ta, short for está bien ( OK ), often in question form

25 Money The unit of currency is the peso uruguayo (UR$). Banknotes are 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and There are coins of 50 centavos, and one, two, five and 10 pesos. MAPS ITMB (shop.itmb.ca) publishes a useful map depicting Montevideo on one side and Uruguay on the other. In Uruguay, Ancap service stations sell good maps. ATMs In all but the smallest interior towns, getting cash with your ATM card is easy. Machines marked with the green Banred or blue Redbrou logo serve all major international banking networks, including Cirrus, Visa, MasterCard and Maestro. 40 C mm Dangers and annoyances While Montevideo is considered pretty sedate by Latin American standards, you should always exercise caution, as in any large city. Wallet- and purse-snatchings have been reported in Ciudad Vieja, and certain areas should be avoided at night, notably the Mercado del Puerto, a great attraction during the daytime. You may also encounter some aggressive requests for cash along the pedestrian streets of Bacacay and Sarandí. Montevideo s policia turística (tourist police) patrol the streets throughout Ciudad Vieja and the Centro, and should be able to help if you encounter any problems. Tourist information The National Tourism Ministry (turismo. gub.uy) operates 13 offices around the country. They distribute excellent free maps for each of Uruguay s 19 departments, along with specialised brochures on estancia tourism, Carnaval and other subjects of interest to travellers. When you arrive in a new town, you ll find that most also have a municipal tourist office on the plaza or at the bus terminal J F M A M J J A S O N D Temp max/min Rainfall climate Since Uruguay s beaches are a major attraction, most visitors come in summer. Along the coast, daytime temperatures average 28 C in January, and nighttime temperatures average 17 C. In interior towns, summer temperatures can be smotheringly hot, with January highs commonly rising well above 30 C. Annual rainfall, evenly distributed throughout the year, averages about one metre over the whole country. Between late April and November, strong winds sometimes combine with rain and cool temperatures (July s average temperature is a chilly 11 C). 0 Horses graze at the traditional estancia, San Pedro de Timote 48 49

26 advertisement For further detail on travelling in Uruguay, see Lonely Planet s Argentina guide ( 16.99), which includes a chapter on Uruguay, or visit lonelyplanet.com/uruguay. Do you need more information about Uruguay? Contact us! uruguaynatural.fb uruguay_natural 50

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