Determining thread demand Determining the thread demand is very important and should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate the thread dem

Transcription

1 Determining your sewing thread requirements Service & Technik Information for the sewing industry

2 Determining thread demand Determining the thread demand is very important and should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate the thread demand, the more you can avoid keeping too much stock on hand. In this way determining the exact calculation of thread demand can directly influence a decrease in costs. An effective system to calculate this thread demand can vary according to the: product group product design process of product batch size the organisation within the company and many other factors require different calculation instruments and processes. In order to offer the suitable solution for each and every garment manufacturer, AMANN has developed various calculation aids in the last few years in close cooperation with the garment industry. This brochure offers an overview of the available calculation methods and affords a detailed requirements table for the most important stitch types a reference guide for each thread calculation. The basis of each thread demand calculation is the determination of the stitch type and the sewing parameter. With this result we can determine the thread demand by multiplying the seam length with the given thread demand value. It is a good idea to subdivide into needle, bobbin and, when needed, cover thread categories, in order to allow for the various layouts of the individual thread systems in the disposition. Factors of influence on the thread demand The thread demand is dependant on numerous factors. The thread demand data in the overview tables in this brochure (p. 8) are based on these parameters used in practice: The illustrated results in the thread demand per stitch type table were arrived at by finishing, undoing and measuring sample seams under the above-mentioned AMANN sewing technique conditions. The influence of stitch density The stitch density has a great influence on thread demand, in particular in stitch types with cross-directional threads (zigzag, blanket stitching, and cover stitching). An increase of stitch density from to stitches/cm with the lockstitch (stitch type 301) leads, for example, to an increased thread demand of about 15%. With the 2 needle covering chainstitch (stitch type 02) thread demand rises with the same increase of stitch density to 35%. This must be taken into consideration during calculation in order to make sure to avoid having not enough stock on hand with the resulting costly subsequent deliveries. AMANN has researched the influence of stitch densities on the most important stitch types. The results can be requested at your convenience in AMANN Technical Sewing Service. The influence of stitch density on thread demand for stitch type 301 and 01 Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam) stitch type 01 (double chainstitch) stitch type 301 (double lockstitch) Stitch depth: Fabric weight: Seam width: stitches/cm 1,0 mm (at two layers of fabric) see table data 2 1 Seam length: 1 metre Stitch density (stitches / cm) 2

3 The influence of fabric weight A change in fabric weight also has a great effect on the thread demand where, besides a change in overall thread demand, the ratio between needle and bobbin threads could shift. With exception of the double lockstitch and presuming an ideal distribution all stitch types whose chains lie not within but outside the fabric, increase their percentage of needle and bobbin threads with increasing fabric weight. With the double chainstitch only the needle thread demand increases with increasing fabric weight, whereas the bobbin thread demand remains constant. The influence of fabric weight on thread demand using the stitch type 01 (double chainstitch) as an example Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam) 8 7 Total thread demand The influence of tension on stitches The thread tension will alter the thread demand value according to setting. This can change the ratio between needle, bobbin and, if applicable, cover thread. It can also greatly influence the amount of the overall thread demand. In practice, great fluctuations in the ratio between the threads as well as in the overall thread demand have been noticed especially in stitch types 500 and 00. This may also be due to the fact that in practice an ideal distribution of threads does not always prevail. This is to be allowed for should the parameters thread tension, stitch density, fabric weight or seam widths in the calculation not match the data in this brochure. Missing demand values for seams that have been developed under other sewing parameters should be determined by practical research methods, this means by undoing stitches and measuring them. The thread demand values in the tables are net values, meaning that the thread demand relates exclusively to a one meter long sewn seam. The thread demand for starting and ending a seam, changing threads, embroidering, chain stitching, etc. has not been allowed for Bobbin thread demand Basic thread demand In order to establish a sufficient thread demand calculation, a thread allowance must be added to the net calculation result. Through our experience this allowance to be added must lie between 15 and 25 % of the end net calculation. This allowance takes fluctuations resulting from the respective degree of size and other influences of production and methods into consideration Fabric weight (in millimetres) Developing thread demand All-inclusive calculation 1. Using values arrived at in practice as a basis 2. Using a model catalogue as a guide, for example the AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory Planner Individual calculation 1. Without aid 2. Using the module system of the AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory Planner 3. With software support (AMANN NBE program) 3

4 AMANN sewing thread requirement tables Stitch Type Seam Construction ISO 915 DIN 100 Top Seam Appearance Bottom Seam Width mm Stitches (per cm) Thread Required per 1m of seam % Single-thread chainstitch : 3,80 m Single-thread blindstitch :,50 m Single-thread blindstitch :,50 m Lockstitch (Hand stitch type) 209 : 1,0 m = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

5 Stitch Type Seam Construction ISO 915 DIN 100 Top Seam Appearance Bottom Seam Width mm Stitches (per cm) Thread Required per 1m of seam % Double lockstitch 301 : : 1,0 m 1,0 m 2,80 m 50 % 50 % Double lockstitch 30 5 : : 2,70 m 2,70 m 50 % 50 % 5,0 m Double lockstitch Multi-stitch : :,50 m,50 m 13,00 m 50 % 50 % Double chainstitch 01 : : 1,70 m 3,10 m,80 m 35 % 5 % Double chainstitch 0 3 : : 2,0 m,0 m,80 m 35 % 5 % = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam 5

6 Stitch Type Seam Construction ISO 915 DIN 100 Top Seam Appearance Bottom Seam Width mm Stitches (per cm) Thread Required per 1m of seam % Two-needle double chainstitch with common looper 0 5 : : 3,0 m 8,0 m 11,80 m 29 % 71 % Three-needle double chainstitch with common looper 07 : : 5,10 m 11,0 m 1,70 m 30 % 70 % Two-times double chainstitch with cover thread 08 LF : : LF: 3,0 m,20 m 5,80 m 15,0 m 22 % 0 % 38 % Single-thread overedge stitch : 1,0 m Two-thread overedge stitch Interlaced at needle hole : : 1,70 m 10,00 m 11,70 m 15 % 85 % = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

7 Stitch Type Seam Construction ISO 915 DIN 100 Top Seam Appearance Bottom Seam Width mm Stitches (per cm) Thread Required per 1m of seam % Two-thread overedge stitch Interlaced on edge : :,70 m 5,00 m 11,70 m 57 % 3 % Three-thread overedge stitch Interlaced at 50 5 : 1,70 m : 12,10 m 13,80 m 12 % 88 % needle hole Three-thread overedge stitch Interlaced on edge : :,30 m 7,50 m 13,80 m % 5 % Four-thread overedge stitch (Mock safety stitch) Interlaced at needle hole 512 : 3,0 m : 12,90 m 1,30 m 21 % 79 % Four-thread overedge stitch Interlaced at needle hole 51 : 3,0 m : 13,70 m 17,10 m 20 % 80 % = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam 7

8 Stitch Type Seam Construction ISO 915 DIN 100 Top Seam Appearance Bottom Seam Width mm Stitches (per cm) Thread Required per 1m of seam % Two-needle covering chain-stitch 02 LF : : LF: 3,0 m 8,0 m 5,10 m 20 % 50 % 30 % with cover thread 1,90 m Three-needle covering chain-stitch 05 LF : 5,10 m : 11,0 m LF: 5,80 m 23 % 52 % 25 % with cover thread 22,50 m Four-needle covering chain-stitch 07 LF :,80 m : 1,80 m LF: 5,80 m 25 % 5 % 21 % with cover thread 27,0 m Seam Operation Stitch Type ISO 915 DIN 100 Seam Appearance Type mm No. of Stitches Thread Required per unit % Circular tack Single-thread chainstitch : 0,07 m Bartack Double lockstitch : : 0,30 m 0,20 m 0,50 m 0 % 0 % = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam 8

9 Seam Operation ISO 915 DIN 100 Seam Appearance Type mm No. of Stitches Thread Required per unit % Lingerie buttonhole Single-thread chainstitch : 0,50 m Lingerie buttonhole Double lockstitch : : 0,10 m 0,85 m 0,95 m 10 % 90 % Eyelet buttonhole without bartack Double chainstitch : : 0,80 m 0,20 m 1,00 m 80 % 20 % Sewing on button Lingerie Single-thread chainstitch without button shank hole 7 : 0,20 m -hole 1 : 0,0 m Sewing on button Outerwear Single-thread chainstitch with button shank Sewing on button Double lockstitch 107 -hole 21 : 0,0 m 30 2-hole -hole 12 : : : : 0,10 m 0,05 m 0,15 m 0,20 m 0,10 m 0,30 m 5 % 35 % 5 % 35 % = Needle thread = Bobbin / looper thread LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam 9

10 Empirical data for roughly calculating the amount of thread required The table below is intended as a guide. The thread consumption figures it contains are based on fashionable and qualitative characteristics of the individual garments listed. This means that standard thread amounts indicated are not arithmetical mean values derived from the maximum and minimum values shown in the Range of Variations column. They already include allowances for the beginning and end of seams as well as colour changes. Men s and Boys wear Standard Amount Range of Variation Overlocking Seams Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams Business suit trousers/ corduroy jeans Blue denim jeans Sackcoat, blazer Waistcoat Winter coat Poplin coat Shorts Smock Work suit (two-piece) Bib slacks Anorak, blouson Bathing/dressing gown Tracksuit Underwear Lingerie Standard Amount Range of Variation Overlocking Seams Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams Men s dress shirt (long-sleeved) Men s undershirt, T shirt Ladie s panties, Men s briefs Panty girdle Bra Pyjama Night gown

11 Ladies wear Standard Amount Range of Variation Overlocking Seams Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams Dress (unlined) Dress (lined) Skirt (unlined) Skirt (lined) Jacket Costume (two-piece) Slacks Poplin coat Winter coat Smock Blouse Bathing suit Pyjama suit Shoes Standard Amount Range of Variation Overlocking Seams Distribution Assembly and Ornamental Seams Men s shoes (elegant) Men s shoes (casual) Men s boots Ladies shoes (elegant) Ladies shoes (casual) Ladies boots

12 Determining thread demand with the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is an especially effective way to arrive at a calculation. For the most important product groups in Men s and Boys wear and Ladies wear the thread demand values can be quickly and easily taken from a folder without much effort. The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is built on a basis of illustrations of models and model elements and their respective thread demand values. There are two different ways to use this process for your calculation : Determining the thread demand by using the model illustrations With the aid of the illustration the description of different customary processes the illustration detailed additional information the respective model presented in a product group is clearly described. When the model in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner matches the garment to be calculated then the user can record the respective thread demand at a glance and adopt the value into his calculation. This is the simplest and fastest method to determine the thread amount in a garment. Determining the thread demand by using the module method Using the elemental models for all important product groups and default modules as a guide, individual models can be put together and calculated. The elemental model contains the seam positions that are required for the finishing of the respective garment piece. This means details specific to the model like pockets or seam finishes of trousers etc., are not calculated because these could be designed in every possible variation. In the elemental model the customary process types used in practice are given under the heading Variations. The variations that are the basis of the calculation define the types of seams and the stitch types used for them and the finishing processes for the most important seam positions. In the category Modules functional and decorative model elements are presented to be used by the garment manufacturer to create a basis model. Belonging to this, amongst others, is a multitude of differentiating pocket solutions, quilting and collar designs. By adding the specified thread demand values for the building blocks and the respective basis model the sum for the total model can be calculated. A Sewing Thread Inventory Plan-ner solely for the Ladies wear and Men s and Boys wear is available. The following product groups can be found in the folder: According to product group, up to 5 different model variations are presented, meaning a large diversity of variations creating excellent preconditions for the calculation process. For some models there are up to 3 customary processes calculated that are used in practice also in this regard the chances are great that his model may be found in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner. Ladies wear Blazers, blouses, trousers, jeans, polo shirts, skirts, T-shirts Men s and Boys wear Suit Jackets, vests, trousers, shirts, denim shirts, jeans, polo shirts, T-shirts Sewing Thread Inventory Planner Ladies wear/men s and Boys wear, german or english: 39, Euro 12

13 Determining thread demand with the NBE program The NBE program is a professional software solution to support the calculation of thread demand. The NBE program can, considering all the important parameters that influence thread demand, create one exact thread demand calculation per sewing operation. You just have to enter the required seam positions that are to be calculated and the respective parameters. The calculation and exact evaluation is taken care of by the NBE program. The result is a detailed work plan and thread demand overview giving the required consumption for the thread article to be used and can be applied as a work basis directly out of the disposition. The NBE program was developed in close association with the garment industry, therefore distinguishing itself from other programs for its practice-oriented and userfriendly principle. The advantages of determining thread demand by using a computer program shows in the flexible usability of the great amount of data calculated by entering the various models and modules. With the NBE program a complicated and quick alteration of models is made possible, as well as the simple putting together of new models by adding modules and base models. This type of calculation is particularly efficient and precise at the same time. To guarantee an optimal calculation, the NBE program fulfils the following requirements: Networking capability Based on well-known software (Microsoft Access 2000) Designed for user-friendliness Simple, clearly organized system Visual presentation (models, stitch types) International usability (Language choice German and English) Flexibility (product diversity, individual user s needs) It is possible to integrate the NBE program into existing PDM solutions. Examples are available. Individual according to existing software in the company clarification of the integration or linkage should be possible. The AMANN Technical Sewing Service is happy to be of assistance. The NBE program is available in the German and English language. The CD-ROM comes with a detailed manual. NBE program german or english: 95, Euro 13

14 More brochures AMANN product range Application recommendations for AMANN sewing threads and ACKERMANN embroidery threads Sewing of ultra-lightweight fabrics Determining your sewing thread requirements Sewing on buttons securely AMANN sewing threads for shoes and leather goods Sewing knitted fabrics Guidelines for sewing of outerwear, underwear, lingerie, shirts, blouses, swimwear and leisurewear The sewability of elastic fabric

15 An overview of AMANN thread products An overview of ACKERMANN embroidery threads Service We can advise you in all your questions about sewing and processing technology. Just give us a call. Telephone + 9 (713)

16 DIN EN ISO 9001 : 2000 Zertifikat: Certificate No.: No Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 D-7357 Bönnigheim Telephone +9 (713) Telefax +9 (713) nt@amann.com GB0PDF03 All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information. All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing yarn.