EGYPT - The Red Sea Coast: From Hurghada to Bir Shalatein & The Nile Valley: From Qena to Abu Simbel. - A Birdwatching Trip from 14th to

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1 EGYPT - The Red Sea Coast: From Hurghada to Bir Shalatein & The Nile Valley: From Qena to Abu Simbel - A Birdwatching Trip from 14th to A report written by: Hugues DUFOURNY - 20, rue du Raimbaix Honnelles - BELGIUM Tél.: int hdufournyornitho@yahoo.fr First draft correction: Mrs Patty RIDENOUR (Dayton, Ohio - U.S.A.) Other trip participants: Daniel BOMBAERT (Wemmel - Belgium) Benoit GAUQUIE (Blandain - Belgium) Kris DE ROUCK (Lint - Belgium) Fabien RUYSSCHAERT (Tournai - Belgium) Pictures: Kris DE ROUCK

2 1. Foreword This trip was initiated by HD & KDR with a specific purpose: to see 5 new species in the Western Palearctic, namely Goliath Heron, Lappet-faced Vulture, Crab Plover, African Skimmer and African Collared Dove. Also, we wanted to refresh our memory for some "Red Sea specialities" like Sooty Falcon, Sooty & White-eyed Gulls, Crested, White-cheeked and Bridled Terns. With the single exception of Goliath Heron, these objectives were fulfilled. For both HD & KDR, this was the 4th trip to Egypt. For BG, DB & FR, this trip was their first to the "Land of Pharaohs" and so they saw from 15 to 30 lifers. Undoubtedly, the trip was a success for everybody! The first idea to visit the extreme Southern Egyptian Red Sea coast came with the publication of a short article by BAHA EL DIN (2000) describing the exciting avifauna of that area and, most importantly, mentioning its accessibility to tourists. This was indeed great news since the coast road (actually going further to Gebel Elba and the Sudan) had been closed to foreigners without special permits until Indeed, on a first attempt to drive further South than Marsa Alam in September 1996, I was forced to return North by the soldiers at the checkpoint. This time, driving until Bir Shalatein proved to be a "no problem" affair. At Shalatein, there was a roadblock towards Gebel Elba but we did not ask whether they would allow us to go further South. Who knows? Following the publication of BAHA EL DIN's article, the first intrepid birders started to visit the area, amongst others Pierre-André Crochet in spring 2001 and Tommy Frandsen in spring Recurrent reports (and photographs) of easy-to-see Lappetfaced Vultures at Shalatein prompted us to accelerate things and so we decided to plan the trip for September The choice for September was simplified by reviewing electronic correspondance with OSME's man Andrew Grieve who reported seeing more than 100 Crab Plovers at Hamata (and Goliath Heron) in September/October At Shalatein itself, Lappet-faced Vultures were constantly in view and we did not meet any soldier during our stay there. We feared that things would be less promising for finding African Collared Dove since we only knew that Tommy Frandsen had seen them "in acacias beyond the blue petrol station". Thus we tried there in a small area where acacias were more numerous than in the whole surrounding zone. And there they were! Only Black-crowned Finch-Lark (seen by Tommy Frandsen) was not found but the species is notably erratic. With our two "target-birds" found easily, we cancelled our initial plan to camp one night in the area and we went back to our comfortable hotel near Hamata where we had spent the previous night... Actually (regrettably?), a visit to Shalatein is no longer a matter of "adventure"! Perhaps the climax of the trip was when we discovered our first Crab Plovers at the Hamata mangrove! Besides being a superb, exotic place with turquoise water, bizarreshaped mangrove trees and virtually no tourists, Hamata is obviously THE Western Palearctic hotspot for Crab Plover, at least in September. Birders who recently visited the site in spring did not find Crab Plover, so presumably the plovers only come here during northward autumn post-breeding dispersal. Goliath Heron was not found despite a thorough investigation of Hamata mangrove and some smaller mangroves along the Red Sea coast. Nothing to worry about; this will be a good "excuse" for coming back! Our future trip to the area will most probably be in May and will include a visit to Wadi Gimal Protected Area and its island. Different time, different birds... and so we hope to confirm that Lesser Sandplovers do actually stop along the Egyptian Red Sea coast in their gorgeous breeding plumage!

3 Talking about the Nile Valley is a different matter! For "security" reasons, free circulation of independant travellers (like birdwatchers) is impossible in the Nile Valley. The same applies to "regular" tourists in buses but those people only want to reach the hotels, beaches and historical sites without delay and they are not interested in stopping to watch, say, Hooded Wheatear... This regrettable situation starts as soon as you want to go inland from the Red Sea coast. The only road from where it is possible to reach the Nile Valley is the one from Safaga to Qena. The rule is that all the tourists are gathered in so-called "convoys". To know at what time a convoy leaves, you have to go to the start of the road and ask the soldiers; there is usually a guy wearing civilian clothing who speaks better English than the others. So we had to be in convoy from Safaga to Luxor, from Luxor to Aswan, from Aswan to Abu Simbel and, on the way back, from Idfu to Luxor and from Luxor to Safaga. Of course, such a situation is time-consuming because you never know when the next convoy will leave and it is also very frustrating since you cannot stop to watch birds in the course of these "rallies". During such convoys, indeed driving has to do with road-racing since the speed rarely is less than 110 km./hour and if you want to drive slower, a police car comes up behind you, flashes its lights and uses its siren to indicate that you are a snail! If you are not killed by Muslim fundamentalists, which is nowadays nihil in Egypt, the risk that you will have a road-crash is much greater! And indeed we saw a minibus on its roof in the desert between Abu Simbel and Aswan. That is the Egyptian authorities' version of providing protection for their beloved dollar and euro pocket-filled friends from the U.S. and Europe. Despite all the trouble with convoys, we managed to do what we had planned: to spend three days in Abu Simbel. The Nile Valley itself was really neglected during this trip except for an afternoon birdwatching on Crocodile Island near Luxor. Once in Abu Simbel we were totally free to roam everywhere and we felt much better "protected" without all those uniform-dressed official people and AK-47's around us. Abu Simbel is a great place and it certainly deserves three full days. Birdwatching is pleasant until before it gets too hot. From to 15.00, the heat is difficult to bear and bird activity is slow, so it is better to retreat to the hotel room (if it is air-conditioned) and start birdwatching again from or until dusk. Regarding African specialities, Abu Simbel was somewhat disappointing: African Pied Wagtail and Kittlitz's Plover were the only species that we saw in good numbers at close quarters. Besides those, we only saw one very distant African Skimmer, one fly over Yellow-billed Stork and no Pink-backed Pelicans at all. On a previous visit in 1996 earlier in September, I saw 3 P.-b. Pelicans and a dozen Y.-b. Storks, so presumably the end of September is beyond the ideal period for those birds. Indeed, high numbers are recorded in May and June, and so we are planning to come again to Abu Simbel in May over a few years. It was otherwise very pleasant to watch all the migrants and to go on a boat-trip on Lake Nasser which gave us Nile Monitor as our most impressive "non-bird" tick. Surely we missed the odd African bird among the large numbers of shorebirds or passerines, but that makes the place even more appealing! Egypt is a great country for birdwatching. We'll be back!! BAHA EL DIN, M. (2000). Egypt: the southern Red Sea coast. Birding World 13 (12):

4 2. Complete List of Observed Species (including subspecies) The systematic order of this list follows GOODMAN & MEININGER (1989) in their reference work on Egyptian birdlife The Birds of Egypt (Oxford University Press - Oxford, Great Britain). In general, the bird names are those used by CLEMENTS (2000) in his book Birds of the World - A Checklist (Pica Press - East Sussex, Great Britain) but there are some minor exceptions. Little Bittern Ixobrychus m. minutus Night Heron Nycticorax n. nycticorax Striated Heron Butorides striatus atricapillus & B. s. brevipes Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Cattle Egret Bubulcus i. ibis Western Reef Heron Egretta gularis schistacea Little Egret Egretta g. garzetta Great White Egret Egretta alba melanorhynchos Grey Heron Ardea c. cinerea Purple Heron Ardea p. purpurea Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis Black Stork Ciconia nigra White Stork Ciconia c. ciconia Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea l. leucorodia Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus Northern Pintail Anas a. acuta Garganey Anas querquedula Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus Black-shouldered Kite Elanus c. caeruleus Black Kite Milvus migrans aegyptius & M. m. migrans Egyptian Vulture Neophron p. percnopterus Griffon Vulture Gyps f. fulvus Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus nubicus Western Marsh Harrier Circus a. aeruginosus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter n. nisus Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes Common (= Steppe) Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus Long-legged Buzzard Buteo r. rufinus Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila p. pomarina Osprey Pandion h. haliaetus Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus rupicolaeformis Eurasian Hobby Falco s. subbuteo Sooty Falcon Falco concolor Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus tanypterus Peregrine Falcon Falco p. peregrinus Barbary Falcon Falco p. pelegrinoides Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Corncrake Crex crex

5 Common Moorhen Gallinula c. chloropus Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio madagascariensis Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula b. benghalensis Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus o. ostralegus Black-winged Stilt Himantopus h. himantopus Crab Plover Dromas ardeola Stone-Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus ssp. Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis Collared Pratincole Glareola p. pratincola Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius curonicus Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula tundrae Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Kentish Plover Charadrius a. alexandrinus Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaultii columbinus Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus White-tailed Plover Vanellus leucurus Little Stint Calidris minuta Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Dunlin Calidris a. alpina Ruff Philomachus pugnax Common Snipe Gallinago g. gallinago Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa l. lapponica Whimbrel Numenius p. phaeopus Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata orientalis Common Redshank Tringa t. totanus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common Greenshank Tringa n. nebularia Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria i. interpres Sooty Gull Larus hemprichii White-eyed Gull Larus leucophthalmus Slender-billed Gull Larus genei Lesser Black-backed Gull (= Baltic Gull) Larus f. fuscus Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon n. nilotica Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Crested Tern Sterna bergii velox Lesser Crested Tern Sterna b. bengalensis Common Tern Sterna h. hirundo White-cheeked Tern Sterna repressa Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus fuligula Little Tern Sterna a. albifrons Whiskered Tern Chlidonias h. hybridus Black Tern Chlidonias n. niger White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris Crowned Sandgrouse Pterocles c. coronatus Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus

6 Rock Dove Columba livia schimperi & C. l. "forma domestica" African Collared Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea arabica Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia d. decaocto Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur ssp. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis aegyptiaca Namaqua Dove Oena c. capensis Common Cuckoo Cuculus c. canorus Barn Owl Tyto a. alba Common Swift Apus a. apus Common Kingfisher Alcedo a. atthis Pied Kingfisher Ceryle r. rudis Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis cleopatra European Bee-eater Merops apiaster Roller Coracias g. garrulus Hoopoe Upupa epops major & U. e. epops Wryneck Jynx torquilla ssp. Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cincturus arenicolor Desert Lark Ammomanes d. deserti Hoopoe Lark Alaemon a. alaudipes Short-toed Lark Calandrella b. brachydactyla Crested Lark Galerida cristata brachyura, G. c. maculata & G. c. halfae Sand Martin Riparia riparia ssp. Rock Martin Hirundo o. obsoleta Barn Swallow Hirundo r. rustica & H. r. savignii House Martin Delichon u. urbica Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris ssp. Tree Pipit Anthus t. trivialis Meadow Pipit Anthus p. pratensis Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava thunbergi, M. f. flava, M. f. feldegg & M. f. beema White Wagtail Motacilla a. alba African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp vidua Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus arsinoe Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia Bluethroat Luscinia svecica ssp. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus ssp. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Northern Wheatear Oenanthe o. oenanthe (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe (hispanica) melanoleuca Hooded Wheatear Oenanthe monacha White-crowned Black Wheatear Oenanthe l. leucopyga Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis Zitting Cisticola Cisticola j. juncidis Graceful Warbler Prinia g. gracilis Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus (Caspian) Reed Warbler Acrocephalus (scirpaceus) fuscus Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus s. stentoreus Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida elaeica Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia c. crassirostris Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia c. curruca Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis icterops

7 Garden Warbler Sylvia b. borin Blackcap Sylvia a. atricapilla Willow Warbler Phylloscopus t. trochilus & P. t. acredula Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa s. striata Nile Valley Sunbird Anthreptes metallicus Golden Oriole Oriolus o. oriolus Red-backed Shrike Lanius c. collurio Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius m. minor Southern (or Steppe) Grey Shrike Lanius (meridionalis) pallidirostris Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator ssp. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus House Crow Corvus s. splendens Hooded Crow Corvus cornix sardonius Brown-necked Raven Corvus r. ruficollis House Sparrow Passer domesticus niloticus Spanish Sparrow Passer h. hispaniolensis Red Avadavat Amandava a. amandava Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Cretzchmar's Bunting Emberiza caesia Total for the trip: 165 species Daily average: 61,2 species

8 3. Daily Report (including prices) N.B.: the reference book The Birds of Egypt is abbreviated "BoE" when it is cited. X = from 1 to 10 ex. XXX = from 101 to ex. XX = from 11 to 100 ex. XXXX = more than ex. All the species that are "special" to Western birders are in bold characters. 1 euro = 7 Egyptian Pounds (= L.E.). Su : Flight Brussels - Hurghada ( ). Transfer by taxi to Hertz for the pick-up of our two cars (406 euros/car for 11 days). Night in Hurghada (Hotel El Arosa: 70 L.E./person incl. breakfast & dinner in a room for 5 - GOOD) Mo : Boat trip (arranged by the hotel for 175 L.E./person incl. drinks & lunch) from to around islands in front of Hurghada: great views of all the terns & gulls). Lazy birdwatching along the shore North of Hurghada. In the evening, we waited in vain for Sooty Falcons near Hotel Arabia. Night in Hurghada (Hotel El Arosa: 70 L.E./person incl. breakfast & dinner in a room for 5 - GOOD). N.B.: unless otherwise stated, all records refer to the islands in front of Hurghada + the shore North of the city. Squacco Heron: groups of ex. resting on the shore North of Hurghada. Western Reef Heron: c.10 ex. incl. 1 dark phase bird. Little Egret: 1 ex. Grey Heron: a group of 9 ex. Eurasian Spoonbill: a group of 8 ex. European Honey Buzzard: c.45 ex. on migration in the evening, incl. one on the beach! Montagu's Harrier: c.10 ex. on migration incl. 2 adult males. Osprey: c.8 ex. incl. 2 on a nest on one of the islands. Eurasian Kestrel: 3 lone individuals in the Hurghada vicinity. Ringed Plover: XX Kentish Plover: XX Greater Sandplover: c.20 ex. on the shore North of Hurghada. Grey Plover: c.10 ex. Little Stint: 7 ex. Curlew Sandpiper: a group of 5 ex. on one of the islands. The only record for the trip. Eurasian Curlew: 1+1 ex. Common Redshank: c.30 ex. Common Greenshank: 1+1 ex. Ruddy Turnstone: c.15 ex. Sooty Gull: 5 ex. with White-eyed Gulls at the boat landing in Hurghada. Not seen at all on the islands! White-eyed Gull: this beautiful species is very abundant in the whole area. We saw thousands of them, e.g counted going to roost in 25 minutes in the evening from Hotel Arabia, probably coming from the city dump.

9 Slender-billed Gull: c.5 ex. Caspian Tern: c.15 ex. Lesser Crested Tern: an estimated 200 ex. for the day with most of them on one of the islands where they were breeding. Many flying juveniles were still begging for food. White-cheeked Tern: an estimated ex. for the day with a large colony on one of the islands where there were still some downy chicks fed by the adults. Bridled Tern: 13 ex. on one of the islands: 6 adults + 7 juveniles. Great views of this "mythic" species! Rock Dove: 1+1 ex. Eurasian Collared Dove: 3 ex. near our hotel in Hurghada seen only by FR. Laughing Dove: XX Common Kingfisher: 1 very tame bird at the boat landing in Hurghada. Barn Swallow: 1 ex. on migration. Willow Warbler: 1 ex. of the acredula race resting in a tree at Hotel Arabia. Golden Oriole: 1 ex. in the Hotel Arabia gardens. House Crow: 1 ex. seen only by DB & KDR at a roundabout in Hurghada. The species has already been reported in Hurghada but it is not clear whether it has a breeding population here. Hooded Crow: c.10 ex. Brown-necked Raven: c.5 ex. Total = 35 species During the boat-trip, we also had excellent views of a large greenish sea-turtle resting at the surface. We could perfectly see the large square head and the very large flippers. Alas, with no book on hand, we were unable to identify it Tu : Early morning birdwatching at El Gouna Resort c.20 km. North of Hurghada. From to 18.00, drive from Hurghada to Shams Alam Resort 50 km. South of Marsa Alam (= 325 km. South of Hurghada). Birdwatching from the road (including a lengthy stop at a protected mangrove area South of Safaga) and near Shams Alam Resort during the last hour of daylight. Night at Shams Alam Resort (315 L.E./person in a double room incl. breakfast & dinner; clearly a "German" resort - EXCELLENT). Note: a special boat trip from to to Wadi Gimal Island can be arranged for 45 euros/person including drinks and lunch at the Shams Alam Diving Center. We guess that it can be nothing but a very exciting experience! N.B.: EG = El Gouna Resort; PM = protected area of mangrove South of Safaga; SA = surroundings of the Shams Alam Resort. Records with no precise site were mainly obtained from the road during the drive but also include birds seen at one or several of the above mentioned sites (e.g. Osprey). Night Heron: a group of 8 ex., EG + 1 ex., PM. Striated Heron: 4 ex. incl. 1 juvenile, PM + 1 adult watched over a long period feeding in the open on the shore, SA. One of our "most wanted" species, of course! Squacco Heron: c.10 ex., PM. Cattle Egret: 1 ex., EG. Western Reef Heron: c.50 ex. Most were scattered along the shore during the drive including a group of 18 ex. at a small mangrove area. Little Egret: 1 ex. with Western Reef Herons in a small mangrove area.

10 Grey Heron: XX Purple Heron: XX Eurasian Spoonbill: c.10 ex. Northern Pintail: 1 ex. in a group of Garganeys. Garganey: c.150 ex. at sea. European Honey Buzzard: c.100 ex. on migration, EG. Western Marsh Harrier: 1+2 ex. on migration. Montagu's Harrier: c.5 ex. on migration. Osprey: c.20 ex. Its abundance is overwhelming! Eurasian Kestrel: c.3 ex. Sooty Falcon: at last, after having missed the species at Hurghada, it was a relief to find 5 ex. at SA. These birds, all adults including 2 perched at rather close range, were seen in the late evening hunting over the brushy area immediately to the South of Shams Alam Resort. Corncrake: after ending the day with Sooty Falcons, there was still one surprise to come in the form of a (presumably) tired Corncrake perched in full view in the light of the spotlights illuminating the Shams Alam Resort entrance wall!! The bird could be watched from c.10 meters for several minutes before it finally took off, probably asking himself "What the hell am I doing here?" Of course, this was one of the most strange and unexpected views of the trip. And an astounding experience for us to see this bird in the open so far from its breeding and wintering grounds. Ringed Plover: c.15 ex. Kentish Plover: c.20 ex. Greater Sandplover: 1 ex., SA. Eurasian Curlew: 1 ex., EG. Little Stint: c.10 ex. Ruff: 1+3 ex., PM. Common Redshank: 1 ex., EG. Marsh Sandpiper: a group of 3 ex., PM. Common Greenshank: 1 ex., SA. Wood Sandpiper: 2 ex., PM. Ruddy Turnstone: 3 ex., SA. Sooty Gull: after only 5 ex. at Hurghada, we got good views of c.20 ex. at SA, some flying very close over us. White-eyed Gull: XXX Not a threatened species at present, it seems... Slender-billed Gull: 5 ex., EG. Caspian Tern: c.40 ex. including our largest group for the trip (19 ex.) at EG. Lesser Crested Tern: an estimated 50+ ex. for the whole day. Seen at most stops. White-cheeked Tern: only 2 ex., EG + 1 ex., SA. Whiskered Tern: 1 moulting adult, EG. Rock Dove: c.20 ex. Turtle Dove: 3 ex. Laughing Dove: XX Common Cuckoo: 1 juvenile, SA. Common Kingfisher: heard at the PM. European Bee-eater: 2 ex. on migration, PM. Roller: 1 ex., EG + 1 ex., PM. Hoopoe: 1 ex. between Hurghada and EG + 1 ex., SA. Desert Lark: c.10 ex. scattered during the drive. Short-toed Lark: c.7 ex., SA. Sand Martin: c.5 ex.

11 Rock Martin: 1 ex. between Marsa Alam and SA. Barn Swallow: only twice 1 ex. on migration. Tawny Pipit: 3 ex. on the lawns, EG + 7 ex. on migration, SA. Tree Pipit: 1 ex., PM. Yellow Wagtail: c.100 ex. including birds of the subspecies thunbergi, flava & feldegg. Bluethroat: 1 ex. briefly, PM. The only record for the trip. Whinchat: c.10 ex. Isabelline Wheatear: 1 ex., EG + 1 ex. during the drive. Northern Wheatear: three times 1 ex. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear: 1 male, SA. White-crowned Black Wheatear: 1 ex. during the drive. Lesser Whitethroat: 1 ex., PM + 1 ex., SA. Willow Warbler: c.10 ex., PM. Spotted Flycatcher: c.15 ex. Most of the birds were at the PM. Golden Oriole: a group of 11 ex., PM. Red-backed Shrike: 4 ex. Southern (or Steppe) Grey Shrike: one of the very unexpected birds of the trip with a first-winter bird undoubtedly belonging to the (sub)species pallidirostris found in scattered bushes in the desert along the road between the entrance gate and the bridge at El Gouna Resort. After the first "shock", the bird was thoroughly studied and photographed (by KDR). According to BoE and LEFRANC & WORFOLK (1997), this would only be the second record for Egypt, after one bird collected at Quseir in February 1928! This is somewhat surprising as the same authors mention a small wintering population in E. Sudan, Ethiopia, Eritrea and N. Somalia. LEFRANC, N. & WORFOLK, T. (1997). Shrikes. A Guide to the Shrikes of the World. Pica Press. East Sussex. Great Britain. Hooded Crow: c.5 ex. EG. Brown-necked Raven: c.50 ex. Frequently seen in small groups during the drive. House Sparrow: only 1+3 ex. in villages. Spanish Sparrow: 2 males + 1 female, SA. The only ones for the trip! Ortolan Bunting: 3 ex., SA. Cretzchmar's Bunting: 1 male, PM. Unfortunately, this bird, one of only two for the trip, was seen rather distantly. Still, it was a tick for FR... Total = 70 species During the drive between Safaga and Shams Alam Resort, DB & KDR (in the second car) got good views of a Dorcas Gazelle walking not far from the road We : Early morning birdwatching near Shams Alam Resort. From 09.00, drive to Hamata mangrove (c.55 km. South of Shams Alam Resort) and birdwatching there until 16.00, then transfer to Zabargad Beach Resort a few km. to the South and seawatching (from the café!) until early evening. Night at Zabargad Beach Resort (320 L.E. for a double room & 420 L.E. for a triple room incl. breakfast & dinner; also very much a "German" club where customers arrive via flights from München to the new Marsa Alam International Airport! - VERY GOOD). N.B.: SA = surroundings of the Shams Alam Resort; HM = Hamata mangrove; ZBR = Zabargad Beach Resort (seawatching). Records with no precise site were mainly obtained from the road during the drive between SA and HM but also include birds seen at one or both sites.

12 Night Heron: a group of 7 ex., SA. Striated Heron: 1 distant ex., HM. Western Reef Heron: c.30 ex. for the whole day including 3 dark phase individuals. Most were seen at HM. Little Egret: 2 ex., SA + 1 ex. between SA and HM. Grey Heron: c.50 ex. Mostly groups resting along the shore or on migration. Purple Heron: c.10 ex. Eurasian Spoonbill: 2 ex. HM. Northern Pintail: 3 ex., HM. Garganey: XXX Northern Shoveler: 3 ex., HM. Western Marsh Harrier: c.10 ex. on migration. Pallid Harrier: 1 juvenile on migration, HM. The only one for the trip! Montagu's Harrier: c.20 ex. on migration, most of them coming in from the sea at HM. Osprey: c.5 ex. Sooty Falcon: again, 1 ex. was seen at SA. The bird was perched in full view with its prey (a small bird) in a bush. Peregrine Falcon: rather unexpectedly, 1 juvenile bird was seen only by HD hunting over the shore at SA. The Peregrine Falcon is said to be a rather rare species in Egypt (BoE). Given the fact that this bird was rather dark, it probably belonged to the subspecies peregrinus rather than to calidus which is normally paler and larger. Eurasian Oystercatcher: 2 ex., HM. The only record for the trip. Crab Plover: after having seen it so many times in books, videos and TV programs, here it was: Crab Plover in life!! The Hamata mangrove delivered on its reputation for attracting large numbers of this highly charismatic shorebird. After watching a group of 5 birds for a long period at high tide, we were soon surrounded by dozens of birds coming to feed at low tide. The highest count gave the astounding total of 144 ex.!! Many birds were still in family parties: the pair + 1 flying and begging juvenile. It was obvious that the birds concentrate on the Southern part of the mangrove at high tide and spread northwards when the mudflats become exposed. The Crab Plover is impossible to miss here in September but, according to birdwatchers who visited the site in spring, it seems to be absent at that period. Ringed Plover: X Kentish Plover: XX Greater Sandplover: a minimum of 120 ex., HM. Of course, not all birds could be checked accurately enough to establish the total absence of Lesser Sandplover! Surely a "target bird" for a forthcoming trip to this part of the Western Palearctic... Grey Plover: XX Little Stint: 1 ex. HM. Dunlin: 1 ex., HM. Ruff: c.50 ex., HM. Bar-tailed Godwit: 1 ex., HM. Whimbrel: 1 ex., HM. Eurasian Curlew: c.20 ex., HM. Common Redshank: c.50 ex., HM. Common Greenshank: 2 ex., HM. Terek Sandpiper: Crab Plover, Greater Sandplover and Terek Sandpiper all in the same scope-view!! What else could birders ask from life? We counted at least 4 ex. of this charismatic shorebird at HM but the real total could be 7 birds as we could not be sure whether a group of 3 ex. was to be added to the 4 ex. already counted. Ruddy Turnstone: c.30 ex., HM.

13 Sooty Gull: c.20 ex. including a few a very close range, SA. White-eyed Gull: XXX Slender-billed Gull: c.10 ex., HM. Caspian Tern: c.30 ex. Lesser Crested Tern: XX(X). A strong passage involving dozens of birds flying to the North was witnessed from ZBR. White-cheeked Tern: an even more important movement also occurred off ZBR for this tern. A brief count established a total of c.250 ex. moving northwards in 10 minutes, so the total for the whole period that we spent there was obviously in the thousands! Bridled Tern: as with other terns, a nice passage of this highly desirable species was witnessed off ZBR. A minimum of 17 ex. was counted flying northwards but possibly up to 32 ex. were involved since a group of 15 fishing birds could be different from the previous 17 ex.. A good opportunity to identify Bridled Tern from a distance! White-winged Black Tern: two nice groups of juveniles were seen: 27 resting on the shore at HM + 44 flying southwards at ZBR. Turtle Dove: c.10 ex. Laughing Dove: only twice 1 ex. in villages. Common Cuckoo: still 1 juvenile (possibly 2), SA. Common Kingfisher: c.5 ex., HM. European Bee-eater: 1 ex. SA. Roller: 1 ex. HM. Hoopoe: c.5 ex., HM. Hoopoe Lark: twice 1 ex. during the drive between SA and HM. Short-toed Lark: XX Mostly small groups on migration. Sand Martin: X Barn Swallow: X Meadow Pipit: 1 ex., HM. The only one for the trip and a very early record indeed! Yellow Wagtail: XX Mostly small groups on migration. Thrush Nightingale: 1 ex. gave poor views in high grass, SA. However, the general dark colour, particularly of the tail, identified this bird as a Thrush Nightingale. Whinchat: 3 ex. Isabelline Wheatear: 2 ex. SA. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear: 1 male still present, SA. Lesser Whitethroat: c.5 ex., SA. Common Whitethroat: 1 male of the eastern subspecies icterops, SA. Eastern Orphean Warbler: 3 ex. in a single bush, SA. Willow Warbler: XX Spotted Flycatcher: c.10 ex. Golden Oriole: c.5 ex. Red-backed Shrike: c.5 ex. Lesser Grey Shrike: 1 adult + 1 first-winter, HM. Masked Shrike: 1 adult + 1 first-winter, SA. Brown-necked Raven: X(X) Spanish Sparrow: again the same 3 ex. at the entrance of Shams Alam Beach Resort. Ortolan Bunting: c.5 ex., SA. Cretzchmar's Bunting: the second bird for the trip was a male seen only by DB, SA. Total = 70 species

14 Th : Lazy breakfast at Zabargad BR, then drive to Bir Shalatein from Arrival around and birdwatching there until 18.00, then drive back to Zabargad BR. Night at Zabargad Beach Resort (320 L.E. for a double room & 420 L.E. for a triple room incl. breakfast & dinner - VERY GOOD). N.B.: BS = Bir Shalatein; ZBR = Zabargad Beach Resort (seawatching). Records with no precise site were mainly obtained from the road during the drive between ZBR and BS but also include birds seen at one or both sites. Purple Heron: 2 ex. on migration, ZBR. Egyptian Vulture: at least 6 birds, BS. These included 3 adults, 1 subadult and 2 juveniles. As with other vultures, very close views of these strange birds were obtained. Griffon Vulture: 1 adult + 1 juvenile birds were also attracted by the carcasses at BS. Lappet-faced Vulture: THE main reason for a visit to Bir Shalatein is this huge bird. Indeed, BS is probably the very last stronghold of this superb bird in the Western Palearctic, after its total eradication from so many areas where it used to breed (like Southern Morocco, Northern Egypt, Israël...). Here we counted at least 35 ex. at one time but there were probably more since not all the birds were visible together. We were treated to many different behaviours of these magnificicent creatures as they were feeding on dromadery carcasses. Especially impressive was the way these birds dominate all other scavenging species: Griffon & Egyptian Vultures, Brown-necked Ravens, and even semi-wild dogs! Watching a dominant adult coming to the carcass with half-spread wings while walking slowly or perched atop the dead animal to impress its congeners is never to be forgotten! We also saw a group of 6 ex. perched at the top of an acacia (a nicer setting!) and a dozen birds drinking at a watering-place for dromaderies. Among the crowd was a neat juvenile identifiable by its rufous down on head and neck and lighter overall colouration. Montagu's Harrier: 1 male on migration, ZBR. White-eyed Gull: only 1 ex., ZBR. Rock Dove: c.70 ex., BS. These typically grey-rumped birds (subsp. schimperi) were resting in the shadow of acacias with birds of the next species. African Collared Dove: one more reason to visit Bir Shalatein is its recently discovered population of African Collared Dove. We saw a total of 7 ex. in the clear acacia savannah around the blue Co-op petrol station at the entrance of BS: 5 on the Southern side of the road in an area where the acacias are more numerous and 2 on the Northern side where they are more widely spaced. As these areas are not far from the checkpoint at the entrance of the BS sector, one is advised to be careful when walking in the open with optical equipment! All the diagnostic features of the species could be studied even though it is much less approachable than our Eurasian Collared Doves! In particular, the smaller size and the shorter tail are very good clues on flying birds. Eurasian Collared Dove has not reached BS (yet!). Turtle Dove: c.10 ex. Roller: 1 ex. ZBR. Hoopoe: 1 ex. on migration, ZBR. Bar-tailed Desert Lark: 1 ex. between ZBR and BS + 1 ex., BS. Desert Lark: 2 ex., BS. Hoopoe Lark: the best day for this species with 6 ex. seen: three times 1 ex. between ZBR and BS and 3 ex. at BS including 1 at the checkpoint. Short-toed Lark: c.70 ex., BS. At least two groups resting on the ground. Barn Swallow: X

15 Yellow Wagtail: XX Common Redstart: 1 ex., BS. Whinchat: c.5 ex., BS. Isabelline Wheatear: at least 5 ex. Northern Wheatear: 1 ex., BS. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear: 1 male between ZBR and BS. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler: 2 ex., BS. Eastern Orphean Warbler: twice 1 ex., BS. Lesser Whitethroat: c.5 ex. Common Whitethroat: 1 ex., BS. Blackcap: 1 male, BS. The only one for the trip. Willow Warbler: c.10 ex. Spotted Flycatcher: 1 ex., BS. Red-backed Shrike: c.5 ex. Lesser Grey Shrike: 1 first-winter at close range atop an acacia, BS. Masked Shrike: 1 ex., BS. Brown-necked Raven: XX Ortolan Bunting: 5 ex., ZBR. Total = 34 species Fr : Things became more complicated today... Our initial plan was to reach the Nile Valley from Zabargad Beach Resort to Luxor via Marsa Alam but the roads from Marsa Alam to Idfu and from Quseir to Qûs were totally closed to tourists. At our last try to cross the Red Sea Mountains from Safaga to Qena, we were told that it was only possible in convoy during daylight hours, so we ended up in Safaga for the night after a second thorough birdwatching morning at the superb Hamata mangrove and during the drive along the Red Sea. Thanks to Egyptian authorities, this meant a 120 km. detour between Marsa and Luxor!! Night at Safaga (Amira Hotel: 210 L.E. for a double room & 567 L.E. for a triple room incl. breakfast & dinner - VERY GOOD). N.B.: HM = Hamata mangrove. Records with no precise site were mainly obtained from the road during the drive between HM and Safaga but also include birds seen at both ends of the trip. Little Bittern: 1 female hidden in the mangrove, HM. Striated Heron: 3 adults + 1 juvenile, HM. Once more, we got very nice views of this somewhat "cryptic" species including fights between adults and the juvenile. Western Reef Heron: maximum 50 ex. including c.10 dark morph individuals. Grey Heron: XX Mostly groups on migration. Purple Heron: c.10 ex. Eurasian Spoonbill: 1 ex., HM. Garganey: XXX All groups on migration. Northern Shoveler: 7 ex., HM. Montagu's Harrier: c.10 ex. Osprey: c.20 ex. Eurasian Hobby: 1 adult perched on the ground not far from the road North of Quseir. Sooty Falcon: after 3 very distant birds hunting over the shore between Hamata village and HM, we were treated to good views of one adult flying just in front of us at HM.

16 Lanner Falcon: 1 ex. flying along the shore North of Marsa Alam was the only one for the trip. Unfortunately we could not determine its age. Barbary Falcon: 1 juvenile flew twice right in front of us above HM, and an adult Falco perched on the beach at the same site probably belonged to this species too, but poor light conditions prevented a firm identification. Crab Plover: c.80 ex. as a rough estimate of birds present at HM and a family of 3 ex. at Abu Ghusun mangrove immediately North of HM. And so that was it: we had to say farewell to these unique birds... Collared Pratincole: twice we saw birds perched on the shore, but each time they took flight and continued on their migration: ex., HM. Ringed Plover: XX Kentish Plover: XX Greater Sandplover: at least 25 ex. for the whole day. Grey Plover: 1 ex., Abu Ghusun mangrove. Little Stint: 1 ex. Abu Ghusun mangrove. Dunlin: 1 ex. heard, HM. Ruff: XX Common Snipe: 2+3 ex., HM. Bar-tailed Godwit: 1 ex., HM. Whimbrel: 2 ex., HM. Eurasian Curlew: c.15 ex., HM. Common Redshank: XX Common Greenshank: 1 ex., Abu Ghusun mangrove. Wood Sandpiper: c.10 ex., HM. These birds accompanied the group of 35 Collared Pratincoles. Is it why its Latin name is Tringa glareola? Common Sandpiper: a group of 4 ex., HM. Sooty Gull: 5-10 ex. White-eyed Gull: XX Lesser Black-backed (= Baltic) Gull: the only bird for the trip was seen on migration over the Red Sea 30 km. North of Marsa Alam. Due to its very dark upperparts, it was readily identified as an adult Larus fuscus fuscus instead of Heuglin's Gull. Gull-billed Tern: 2 ex., Abu Ghusun mangrove. Caspian Tern: XX Crested Tern: finally... at the end of this 5th day along the Red Sea, Crested Tern joined our list with a group of 7 ex. on the shore 30 km. North of Marsa Alam. These birds could be watched in direct comparison with some Caspian & Lesser Crested Terns. White-cheeked Tern: XX Lesser Crested Tern: c.50 ex. including 30 with the Crested Terns 30 km. North of Marsa Alam. Crowned Sandgrouse: one more nice surprise occurred just South of Marsa Alam when we saw small groups of Pterocles sp. totalling c.60 ex. flying over the desert. Once stopped, we could watch them for a rather long period resting on a hillside and we identified them easily as Crowned Sandgrouses. This was the only sighting for the trip. Rock Dove: a group of c.30 ex. at Marsa Alam. Turtle Dove: X Common Cuckoo: 1 ex., HM. Common Kingfisher: c.5 ex., HM. Pied Kingfisher: a rather unexpected record with 2 birds at HM. According to BoE, the species is not reported along the Red Sea. It is therefore highly possible that these birds originated from Sudan rather than from Northern Egypt.

17 Roller: 1 ex. HM. Hoopoe: 1 ex., HM + 1 ex., Quseir. Hoopoe Lark: 1 ex., HM. Short-toed Lark: c.20 ex. Sand Martin: c.5 ex., HM. Rock Martin: three times 1 ex. Barn Swallow: X Yellow Wagtail: XX Whinchat: c.5 ex., HM. Isabelline Wheatear: c.5 ex. Northern Wheatear: 1 ex., HM. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear: 1 ex., HM + 1 ex. between HM and Safaga. White-crowned Black Wheatear: 1 ex. c.30 km. North of Marsa Alam. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler: 1 ex., HM. Eastern Orphean Warbler: 1 ex., HM. Common Whitethroat: 1 ex. HM. Willow Warbler: X Spotted Flycatcher: c.5 ex. Golden Oriole: c.15 ex., HM. Red-backed Shrike: c.4 ex. Lesser Grey Shrike: 1 ex. between HM and Safaga. Brown-necked Raven: XX Ortolan Bunting: 1 ex. heard on migration, HM. Total = 68 species Sa : Left Safaga with the convoy at and reached Luxor around with a single "drinking" (or was it shopping?) stop halfway. Birdwatching on Crocodile Island (South of Luxor city) until (an all-too-brief visit...). At the checkpoint at the start of the road to Aswan on leaving Luxor, we were told that the convoy had left Luxor at 15.00, so we had the choice to spend one night in Luxor or arrange a "special convoy" for our two cars and the five of us. We chose the second option as we wanted to reach Abu Simbel next morning in order to have three full days of birdwatching there. Egyptian bureaucracy and total lack of efficiency by uncountable uniform-dressedand-gun-wearing men meant that it took 4 hours to arrange the "special convoy" which eventually led us to Aswan at on 21-09! Of course, we did not sleep at all (except for those lazy guys who were not driving... and I am one of them!) and it cost us 780 L.E. for that indeed very "special" convoy (three soldiers in an accompanying minibus for 100 km.; then only one idiot in one of the cars - Never before had we felt so efficiently protected!) N.B.: CI = Crocodile Island (Luxor); S-Q = drive between Safaga and Qena. Records with no precise site were mainly obtained from the road during the drive between Safaga and Luxor but also include birds seen at Crocodile Island. Striated Heron: at least 2 ex. in the channel along the road from Qena to Luxor ex. including 1 juvenile in the channel before the entrance to CI + 1 juvenile, CI. The birds occuring in the Nile Valley are said to belong to the subspecies atricapillus instead of brevipes along the Red Sea. Squacco Heron: XX

18 Cattle Egret: XX Little Egret: XX Grey Heron: X Purple Heron: X Garganey: X Black-shouldered Kite: c.15 ex. between Qena and Luxor ex, CI. We got tantalizing views and photographic opportunities of birds perched on wires or telegraph poles along the road but no stop was allowed, thanks to the convoy... Black Kite: 3 ex., S-Q + X in the Nile Valley. Western Marsh Harrier: c.3 ex. Montagu's Harrier: c.5 ex. on migration at Safaga. Common (= Steppe) Buzzard: 1+3 ex. on migration, S-Q. Long-legged Buzzard: 2 ex. on migration with 3 Steppe Buzzards, S-Q. Due to the convoy, we could not stop to study these birds, but the much larger size compared to the Steppe Buzzards identified them as Long-legged Buzzards... Our only ones for the trip. Eurasian Kestrel: X Common Moorhen: c.20 ex. in the Nile Valley. Purple Swamphen: after 1 juvenile poorly seen by BG, our entire group got excellent views of 1 splendid adult + 2 juveniles, CI. The local race madagascariensis is truly remarkable with its shiny green back! Black-winged Stilt: 4 ex., CI. Senegal Thick-knee: 2 ex. in the shadow of fruit trees, CI. Very good views of these somewhat lethargic birds. Little Ringed Plover: c.10 ex., CI. Ringed Plover: 1 ex., CI. Spur-winged Plover: XX in the Nile Valley. Little Stint: 3 ex., CI. Temminck's Stint: 5 ex., CI. Ruff: c.10 ex., CI. Common Snipe: 1 ex., CI. Marsh Sandpiper: 2 ex., CI. Common Greenshank: 1 ex., CI. Green Sandpiper: 1 ex., CI. The first for the trip. Wood Sandpiper: c.5 ex., CI. Common Sandpiper: 1 ex., CI. Spotted Sandgrouse: another frustrating observation thanks to the convoy between Safaga and Qena: 1 Spotted Sandgrouse flying over the road seen only by KDR... Rock Dove: c.25 ex., S-Q. Turtle Dove: XX including a singing bird in the Hotel Mövenpick compound at CI, so presumably belonging to the local race isabellina! Laughing Dove: XX Pied Kingfisher: c.50 ex. from Qena onwards. Its abundance is unbelievable. Little Green Bee-eater: c.25 ex. from Qena onwards. A truly superb bee-eater! European Bee-eater: 1 ex., S-Q + X in the Nile Valley. Hoopoe: c.20 ex. from Qena onwards. All the birds watched on CI belonged to the dark Nile Valley subspecies major. Crested Lark: c.10 ex. Rock Martin: c.5 ex. including 2 at Hotel Luxor in the city centre. Barn Swallow: XX in the Nile Valley, mainly birds of the reddish subspecies savignii. Yellow Wagtail: X including 1 male of the subspecies thunbergi, CI.

19 White Wagtail: 1 ex. CI. With the Meadow Pipit along the Red Sea on 17-09, one of the surprisingly early records of Palearctic migrant species for the trip. Common Bulbul: c.20 ex., CI and surroundings. Whinchat: 1 ex., CI. Hooded Wheatear: three times 1 male, S-Q. Fortunately, one of these birds was found during the drinking/shopping stop and therefore it could be watched in rather good conditions. As usual, this wheatear was scarce and these 3 birds were the only ones for the trip. White-crowned Black Wheatear: twice 1 ex., S-Q. Zitting Cisticola: 1 ex., CI. The only one for the trip. Graceful Warbler: c.10 ex., CI. Sedge Warbler: 2-3 ex., CI. Clamorous Reed Warbler: 2 ex. in very worn plumage, CI. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler: 1 ex., S-Q + 1 ex., CI. Lesser Whitethroat: c.10 ex. Willow Warbler: XX Spotted Flycatcher: X Nile Valley Sunbird: 8-10 ex., CI. Mostly males, including 2 singing. A good bird... but a frustrating experience to see it in such a drab plumage when one knows how it is dressed in spring! Red-backed Shrike: X Lesser Grey Shrike: 1 ex., CI. Woodchat Shrike: 1 ex. at the drinking/shopping stop, S-Q. Masked Shrike: c.10 ex. House Crow: ex. only seen in flight at Safaga. This "self-introduced" crow has its southernmost population in Egypt since at least 1980 in this coastal city (BoE). Hooded Crow: X Brown-necked Raven: XX House Sparrow: XX(X) Red Avadavat: groups of 2 and 4 ex. were seen distantly by BG, DB & FR in the reeds from the bridge connecting CI to the mainland. Total = 65 species Su : The convoy from Aswan to Abu Simbel left Aswan at 04.00, reaching Abu Simbel around (which for us meant an almost non-stop drive of c.500 km. at night on Egyptian roads from Luxor to Abu Simbel!!). Check-in at Abu Simbil Tourist Village (also called Hotel Abbès or Abbas by local people). Lazy birdwatching in Abu Simbel during the morning (for those who still had some energy), then from a road going along the inlets of the western shore of Lake Nasser in the afternoon. Night at Abu Simbil Tourist Village (90 L.E. for a double room & 105 L.E. for a triple room without breakfast - GOOD... enough... compared to the overpriced Nefertari & Sethi Abu Simbel). Night Heron: heard at Aswan at night during the wait for the departure of the convoy. Squacco Heron: XX Cattle Egret: XX Little Egret: XX Great White Egret: 1 distant bird in winter plumage (yellow bill) on the northern shore of the large inlet of Lake Nasser immediately to the North of Abu Simbel.

20 Grey Heron: c.10 ex. Purple Heron: c.5 ex. White Stork: one group of 20 ex. + 1 ex. Despite our hopes, they all had a red bill... Glossy Ibis: 1 ex. Eurasian Spoonbill: one group of 18 ex. Egyptian Goose: 150+ ex., most of them on the southern shore of the large inlet of Lake Nasser immediately to the North of Abu Simbel. "Real" Egyptian Geese... and no longer those city-park West European birds. At last! Garganey: X Northern Shoveler: X European Honey Buzzard: 2 ex. on migration. Black Kite: 50+ ex. All the birds seen well enough were of the yellow-billed subspecies aegyptius. A future split? Western Marsh Harrier: 1 ex. Levant Sparrowhawk: one group of 5 birds seen only by HD spent some time over the area around Nefertari Hotel (even landing in the small nearby wood) before continuing its southward migration. Despite the distance, the bluish upperparts and the white underparts with pointed black wingtips readily identified these birds. Common (= Steppe) Buzzard: c.10 ex. on migration. Sooty Falcon: like the Levant Sparrowhawks, 1 adult Sooty Falcon, seen only by HD, spent a few minutes hanging around the area near Nefertari Hotel. We did not expect to see this species here. Greater Painted Snipe: certainly one of the unexpected discoveries of the trip with no less than 3 male Painted Snipes in full view on the shore of a small inlet of Lake Nasser in Abu Simbel village. The birds were approached to within a few dozen meters. In a sense, it was somewhat "frustrating" to see this bird here for those of our group who still need to visit the North of Egypt since it means one less lifer there! Black-winged Stilt: c.5 ex. Senegal Thick-knee: at least 5 ex. around the large bridge in Abu Simbel including one pair watched for a long time on a "beach" from 20 meters. Probably my best ever sighting of this African bird! The birds start calling 30 minutes before dark; their calls are very reminiscent of Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus). Collared Pratincole: 1 ex. Little Ringed Plover: X(X) Kittlitz's Plover: 2 adults on the shore of one of the smaller inlets on the western shore of Lake Nasser. Spur-winged Plover: XX A very ubiquitous bird here! Little Stint: c.50 ex. Temminck's Stint: at least 8 ex. (6+1+1). Common Redshank: 1 ex. Marsh Sandpiper: a group of 3 ex. + three times 1 ex. = 6 ex. Common Greenshank: 1 ex. Green Sandpiper: c.5 ex. Common Sandpiper: c.10 ex. Gull-billed Tern: c.60 ex. in the large inlet of Lake Nasser immediately to the North of Abu Simbel. White-winged Black Tern: at least 2 ex. Turtle Dove: X Laughing Dove: XX Common Swift: 2 ex. hanging around over a small inlet of Lake Nasser. At last... after one week in Egypt!

21 Pied Kingfisher: 1 ex. in Abu Simbel. European Bee-eater: c.20 ex. Hoopoe: XX All the birds seen well enough still seemed to belong to the darker local subspecies major. Wryneck: 1 bird seen very distantly perched on a big rock in the shadow was identified as a Wryneck due to its reptile-like silhouette and movements. Short-toed Lark: c.20 ex. Crested Lark: XX Rock Martin: c.10 ex. Barn Swallow: X Tawny Pipit: 1 ex. Tree Pipit: 1 ex. in the small wood near Nefertari Hotel. Yellow Wagtail: XX(X). Birds of the subspecies thunbergi and flava were identified and one bird showed all features of beema. African Pied Wagtail: 4 ex. found in late evening near the large bridge in Abu Simbel. Whinchat: c.5 ex. Isabelline Wheatear: c.20 ex. Northern Wheatear: c.5 ex. (Eastern) Black-eared Wheatear: 1 male. White-crowned Black Wheatear: c.10 ex. Rock Thrush: 1 first-winter or female bird perched on a rock. Graceful Warbler: c.10 ex. Sedge Warbler: three times 1 ex. (Caspian) Reed Warbler: 1 ex. in the small wood near Nefertari Hotel. Typically a greyish bird of the Middle Eastern (sub)species fuscus. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler: c.5 ex. Lesser Whitethroat: XX The small wood near Nefertari Hotel was home to dozens of Lesser Whitethroats unceasingly uttering their typical "teck". Willow Warbler: XX Spotted Flycatcher: XX Most of them in the small wood near Nefertari Hotel. Golden Oriole: c.10 ex. in the small wood near Nefertari Hotel. Red-backed Shrike: c.3 ex. Masked Shrike: c.15 ex. Brown-necked Raven: XX House Sparrow: XXX House Sparrows at Abu Simbel are obviously smaller and much drabber than ours! Total = 68 species Mo : Birdwatching in and around Abu Simbel from to (including area around the big hills very visible on the northern shore of the large inlet of Lake Nasser immediately to the North of Abu Simbel) and from to Afternoon rest in between. Night at Abu Simbil Tourist Village (90 L.E. for a double room & 105 L.E. for a triple room without breakfast - GOOD... enough... compared to the overpriced Nefertari & Sethi Abu Simbel). Night Heron: at least 10 ex. at a day roost in trees overhanging Lake Nasser near Nefertari Hotel + 1 ex. elsewhere. Squacco Heron: XX Cattle Egret: XX