ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO MOROCCO High Atlas & Sahara April Leader: David Walsh

Transcription

1 ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO MOROCCO High Atlas & Sahara April 2016 Leader: David Walsh

2 ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO MOROCCO High Atlas & Sahara April 2016 A Personal Diary The 2016 Ornitholidays spring tour to Morocco once again produced an outstanding set of quality birds in a range of awe-inspiring settings. Starting in the Atlas Mountains, we found African Crimson-winged Finch and Seebohm s Wheatear at Oukaimeden having seen Moussier s Redstart on the way up. A singing Tristram s Warbler in the Ourika Valley was a surprise before we headed over the Tizi-n-Tichka pass, seeing a Levaillant s Green Woodpecker en route. Mansour Lake was superb this year, with Red-knobbed Coot and 50 Collared Pratincoles amongst numerous highlights. We found Thick-billed Larks and Cream-coloured Coursers near the famous Tagdilt Track and a stunning pair of Maghreb Wheatears nearby. A family group of Saharan Scrub Warblers showed splendidly in a roadside wadi as we drove east towards the edge of the Sahara, where our day in 4x4 vehicles was as magical as ever. Starting with a Greater Hoopoe Lark, we saw close to 100 Spotted Sandgrouse followed by a male Desert Sparrow in an isolated settlement. Next, we bumped into a pair of African Desert Warblers before marvelling at a pair of roosting Egyptian Nightjars, voted Bird of the Trip, shown to us once again by a proud local nomad. After lunch next to the picturesque Erg Chebbi sand dunes we located a Pharaoh Eagle Owl on its chosen cliff before watching a party of Fulvous Babblers. The following day we found several newly arrived Rufous Bush Robins and a colony of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters as we started our journey back towards Marrakech. By concentrating on the mountains and desert, and not making the long trek to the coast, our itinerary once again allowed us to spend more time birding and less time driving, and we enjoyed looking for migrants in a number of locations. We recorded a selection of interesting butterflies during the trip including Moroccan Hairstreak and Spanish Festoon. The scenery on this tour is simply magnificent and was seen at its best in the consistently sunny weather, whilst there were numerous opportunities to see local people going about their daily lives, whether in rural villages or the souks as we drove through the towns. The hotel dinners were a delightful mix of buffets and tasty tagines, whilst our daily sit-down lunches included a wide selection of dishes and provided the chance for our excellent local driver to rest. This was my 18 th visit to Morocco; as I write after each tour, it is only a three hour flight from the UK, yet genuinely feels a world away! Tuesday 5 th April The British Airways flight left Gatwick at 3.25pm, somewhat later than scheduled, partly because the pilot had got stuck in traffic on the M23! Nevertheless, with strong northerly tail winds we had a remarkably quick journey, landing in Marrakech just 2 hours 45 minutes later, 15 minutes ahead of schedule. Passport control was typically slow with several flights arriving around the same time, but our baggage was waiting for us and it didn t take long to obtain our dirhams at the bureau de change. I was delighted that Abdelhak was once again to be our driver; we had worked very well together on the 2015 tour. Our air-conditioned vehicle was best described as a small coach and it was impressively roomy, so space would not be a problem on this tour. Having picked up our first supplies of water we made the 25 minute journey through the south suburbs of the city to our comfortable hotel, arriving at 7.45pm; Pallid Swift and Spotless Starling were noted along the way. Check-in was splendidly efficient and there was time to begin getting sorted before we met in the bar prior to our buffet dinner. The Casablanca beer was welcome, but much the most expensive we would encounter, and I noted just in time that buying two half bottles of the President s fine red wine was significantly cheaper than purchasing a full bottle: bizarre! The members of our group who had flown from Manchester arrived over an hour early so made it in time for dinner, an unexpected bonus. We all retired in eager anticipation of our first day in the field. Wednesday 6 th April We met for breakfast at 7am and were on the road an hour later, heading south through olive groves towards the snow-covered Atlas Mountains. It was a gorgeous day: sunny, calm and warm but not hot. We drove for just over an hour before making our first birding stop in a valley with scattered bushes and trees, not far from the start of the pine forest proper. We enjoyed our first African Blue Tits, European Serins and Sardinian Warblers, but the highlight was a super pair of Moussier s Redstart; the male was especially photogenic. We made a pit stop at a café just up the road and jammed in on both Western Olivaceous Warbler and Eurasian Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 1

3 Wryneck nearby, although the latter disappeared all too quickly. Passing a school festival, with the teachers doing their best to slow the traffic, we headed up through some hairpins, disembarking just once to enjoy a lovely pale phase Booted Eagle overhead. We arrived at the ski resort of Oukaimeden at 11am and drove a little further on, to the ski lift car park. There was enough snow up the mountain to have attracted a fair crowd, but at this stage it wasn t too busy, and we had no need to buy peanuts from the regular seller because our main quarry, African Crimson-winged Finch, was there waiting for us! In fact there were several and, although they flew from their favourite fence, we soon tracked them down and watched the birds feeding by the track alongside Common Rock Sparrows. One of the latter kindly showed us its yellow throat spot! We strolled a little further and soon found our other two target species, Seebohm s Wheatear and Atlas Horned Lark. Both showed at close range, the wheatears clearly very territorial having only recently arrived from their wintering grounds, the larks showing off their horns and posing splendidly for us. Having seen everything, we wanted to within just 20 minutes, some walked up the valley to photograph the derelict village on the hillside opposite, whilst others stayed put and watched the distinctive North African Chaffinches as well as our first Black Redstarts. A mystery butterfly turned out to be a Moroccan Hairstreak, a lifer for all of us. The car park was gridlocked by the time we arrived back at the bus, but Abdelhak had carefully positioned it so it was possible to escape and head into town. We made for our chosen tagine stall and had lunch in the open followed by coffee at an adjacent hotel. In the area there were hundreds of Choughs, with Alpine outnumbering Red-billed by perhaps three to one. At 2.15pm we began our return journey, stopping just below the town where a stream runs parallel to the road. The supporting cast birds performed splendidly as we drifted down, both Black Wheatear and Blue Rock Thrush seen in song flight and an Atlas Long-legged Buzzard soaring against the blue sky. The main target here was the local race of White-throated Dipper and, eventually, an eagle-eyed member of the group located not one but two which we enjoyed watching for some time. Thick mist stopped us exploring the habitat by the hairpins, which was a pity as this had in the past been a good area for Barbary Partridge, a species which as it turned out would elude most of us throughout the tour. It was clear lower down; we paused for a scenic photo and found a displaying Eurasian Sparrowhawk as a bonus. The pines by the road produced the Atlas race of Coal Tit as well as a wonderfully inquisitive Firecrest and a male Cirl Bunting. We then stopped in the same spot where we had birded first thing. A Levaillant s Green Woodpecker called and called from the big trees opposite but, much to the incredulity of the locals, we simply couldn t locate it, glimpses in flight our only reward. There was some compensation in the form of scoped Hawfinches before, at 5.30pm, we declared, arriving at our hotel in the Ourika Valley half an hour later. I was warmly greeted on what was my fourth visit. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with the hotel s water supply misbehaving and, despite the best efforts of the staff, things didn t resolve themselves until much later in the evening. We enjoyed several Flag beers before settling down to dinner in an enormous restaurant. Moroccan salad was followed by a superb lemon chicken tagine, washed down with Gerrouane rosé and red wine courtesy of Ornitholidays. We reflected on a day of wonderful birds and near-perfect weather and hoped our good form would continue in the morning. Thursday 7 th April Despite the chilly conditions, we met for breakfast on the terrace at 7.15am, with eggs, fresh bread, jam, olives, coffee and tea on offer. The views up and down the valley were really superb. Common Bulbuls were present in good numbers, and a Western Bonelli s Warbler showed at close range below us. Strolling along the road after breakfast, we enjoyed seeing Red-rumped Swallows overhead and managed to spot Common Nightingale and Cetti s Warbler; the songs of both these species were heard regularly as we drove through the valley. At 8.45am we set off, passing numerous cafés and shops selling pots. We had time for an hour s birding in the valley and spent it at two sites, both of which involved parking in lay-bys which were home to camels and their owners! At the first, a Barbary Partridge was calling near us with a Levaillant s Green Woodpecker further away; neither gave themselves up. Disembarking quickly a little further down the road, we enjoyed super views of a male Rock Bunting and heard a Common Cuckoo before I became aware of a familiar call in the bushes. One of the group quickly located its source, and there in full view was a stunning Tristram s Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 2

4 Warbler in typical pose! I had never seen one in the Ourika Valley before; perhaps it had been pushed down to this lower elevation by cold weather? We watched it for ages, some even getting scope views. Then it was definitely time to crack on with our journey. We turned right in a town and crossed the river, where the views back up to the mountains were stunning once again. Travelling through an area of lowland plains, we noted two Desert Little Owls and a European Turtle Dove on the wires, but there was no sign of the expected Corn Buntings. We made a planned stop, and had great views of several Crested Larks as well as a Desert Great Grey Shrike and our first Western Subalpine Warbler. Nearby we spotted our first White Storks at their nests. The local lads looking after their goats were very amused by our presence! We arrived at the main road and, having made a comfort stop, headed up into the hills. After around 45 minutes we stopped in an area of pines which had proved productive in the past and today was no exception. We scoped a male Atlas Common Crossbill, saw a Great Spotted Woodpecker of the local race, and had second helpings of several species we d seen the previous day. A little further on, we dropped down to an area of juniper trees and bushes. We had no need to search for Tristram s Warbler but had a different target and, having had several near-misses over the previous 24 hours, we were in luck at long last. A male Levaillant s Green Woodpecker showed splendidly for ages at close range; there was even time to show it to some very polite local children through the telescope. Abdelhak drove with due care and attention despite the antics of others as we made for my usual restaurant for a late lunch. As always here, the service was very quick; omelette and chips was chosen by some, with others opting for brochettes. After complimentary oranges and mint tea, we walked off our lunch in the valley opposite. There were plenty of birds on offer as well as a couple of interesting butterflies, Black-eyed Blue and Chapman s Green Hairstreak; the latter was new for me and it was great to scrutinise it having seen Green Hairstreak earlier in the morning. Back at the vehicle we found that one of our group who had chosen not to walk up the track had seen a Barbary Partridge! At 3.45pm it was time to ascend through the hairpins and over the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass at 2,260 metres; en route we saw Eurasian Crag Martins and, more surprisingly, another Red-billed Chough. On the way down, snoozing was the order of the day so we pushed on into the town of Amerzgane and turned right to begin our desert birding. We had excellent views of Desert Lark, a species which had proved difficult in the past. Several migrant Woodchat Shrikes were found using whatever perches they could find. At 6.45pm we arrived at our hotel in the bustling town of Ouarzazate, very plush by comparison with the one from the previous evening! Once again check-in was very quick, and we met at 8pm to do our bird list before enjoying the buffet dinner which included some tasty fish. It was good to compare notes with another birding tour group before it was time to head to our rooms, where we hoped for a really good night s sleep to recharge the batteries. Although we had had a relatively long drive, it had been through awe-inspiring scenery, and we had found plenty of time to birdwatch, in particular seeing two highly sought-after species. Friday 8 th April A House Bunting joined us in the restaurant as we enjoyed our buffet breakfast. Having set off at 8am, we spent the best part of three hours birding the west end of Mansour Lake, just five minutes from our hotel. It was, again, beautifully sunny but relatively cool, ideal conditions for some see what we see birding after a day or two of looking for specific targets. A Desert Little Owl on a building next to the track made for a good start, then we looked at three passerines which are regulars in this area. Saharan Eastern Olivaceous Warblers obliged by singing from open perches in the tamarisks, Maghreb Crested Larks showed off their long bills and Spanish Yellow Wagtails sat out nicely; we enjoyed comparing the latter with their Blue-headed relatives. A pool to the right held good numbers of Black-winged Stilts as well as various small waders, of which Kentish Plover was the highlight. Our attention was then caught by the first of two Montagu s Harriers which flew through. Continuing with eyes to the skies, we compared Pallid and Common Swifts; there were good numbers of both. This site is normally good, but this morning it was simply outstanding. Scopes up, we positioned ourselves on the shore and scanned. There were birds everywhere. Fifty Great Cormorants, 80 White Storks, three Eurasian Spoonbills, six Greater Flamingos and flying Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns were distant, but everything else was much closer. Sixty Ruddy Shelducks, five Marbled Ducks, over 50 Glossy Ibises (which I d never seen here before), a Squacco Heron, three Pied Avocets, Moroccan and White Wagtails, and, perhaps best of Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 3

5 all, over 30 Collared Pratincoles, some of which perched only metres away. I d been tipped off about the presence of a Red-knobbed Coot, a bird I d never seen anywhere, so patiently scanned the 80 or so Eurasian Coots thinking I was looking for an obscure first winter bird. I wasn t expecting to find a bird with two red knobs above the bill but, suddenly, there it was in front of us! We got very good views and the group realised my excitement had reached new heights! We soon returned to the more colourful fare on offer, of which a perched Blue-cheeked Bee-eater was the best. What an amazing morning s birding! At 11am we declared and headed back to the hotel to use its facilities before, in relaxed mode, doing a spot of shopping for postcards, stamps and liquid refreshment for the next couple of evenings (our hotel was, in theory, a dry establishment). We then headed east for 90 minutes to another fine restaurant in the town of El Kelaa M Gouna, where we were able to sit on a terrace overlooking a verdant river valley. Sizzling Berber omelettes were voted the highlight this lunchtime! A Laughing Dove came to join us. Continuing along the aptly-named Valley of Roses (although the roses weren t actually out), we made haste for our wonderful base in Boumalne with its superb views down the Dadès valley. Warmly welcomed, we had mint tea whilst the keys were sorted, but there was still time for a siesta or even a swim before we headed out again at 4.45pm. The Tagdilt Track has been one of Morocco s most well-known birding sites for many decades. Nowadays the track itself isn t really driveable because of a new road towards Ikniouen which runs parallel to it through similar habitat. We made good use of the latter and my usual tactic, driving along slowly and stopping when something was spotted, paid dividends. A male Desert Wheatear was scoped and nearby we found the first of several Temminck s Larks. The gerbil-like creatures were presumed to be Fat Sand Rats; it was good to see them, not just their burrows as had been the case last year! Turning off onto a driveable track, we continued to the far side of a shallow wadi, parked up and scanned. To the left we found a distant flock of seven Creamcoloured Coursers and were about to head towards them when a whistle to the right caught my attention. It was a Thick-billed Lark, a most-wanted for a number of the group, so we concentrated on it instead and had cracking scope views once we d positioned ourselves with the sun behind us. I then pretended to be a local shepherd and managed to coax the coursers much closer to the group which everyone appreciated! Greater Short-toed Larks were studied, then it really was time to head back to base. We nearly made our 7pm deadline, three Bar-tailed Larks delaying us momentarily near the main road. At dinner, we enjoyed Moroccan soup followed by a superb chicken tagine, the waiters splendidly attentive to our every needs. It was great to have had a marvellously varied day s birding, with lots of time in the field and relatively little in the bus. Saturday 9 th April We left the hotel at 7am this morning, just as the sun rose, for some pre-breakfast birding in the desert just a short distance from Boumalne. It was surprisingly cold, but the early morning light was lovely and it took no time at all to find our main target species, Red-rumped Wheatear; we noted both males and females. Four Thick-billed and two Temminck s Larks were enjoyed too, as well as an X-rated pair of Atlas Long-legged Buzzards! Nearby we explored an area where nomads were living in caves in a wadi, a stark reminder that not everyone was living in the same degree of comfort as us. A pair of Bar-tailed Larks showed splendidly, and we had further looks at several desert species that we had seen already. Having been out in the fresh air, breakfast at 9am tasted even better than usual. We ate outside, with incredible views over the valley. A full size Berber omelette was cooked specially for us. At 10am we left again, heading east; a Western Marsh Harrier migrating across the desert looked incongruous. We made one planned stop, in a rocky section, both Desert Lark and Trumpeter Finch showing well. From here we drove straight to the famous Todra Gorge, first making a pit stop at our restaurant to order lunch. We then drove through the gorge itself, where our former lunch spot is now sadly closed due to a rock fall. We eventually made it out the other side, although a group of 24 4x4 vehicles, all numbered in sequence, were parked up which didn t make things easy! Walking up some steps gave us extra elevation and we were delighted to see the local pair of Bonelli s Eagles as well as a group of migrating Black Kites. Back down by the road several birds, including Black Wheatear, seemed especially tame; we also found Bath White and Small Copper plus a Barbary Ground Squirrel. Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 4

6 Lunch was splendid once again, vegetarian tagine proving popular today. There was time afterwards to look round the garden, where we found several migrants including Melodious Warbler as well as Long-tailed Blue and Speckled Wood. Eventually we drifted back down the valley, making no fewer than four photo stops. We continued to marvel at the kasbahs, rocks and vegetation, pleased that this site was part of our itinerary. Back on the main road we made one birding stop, at a roadside grove. We had our first proper looks at Thekla Lark and European Bee-eater before looking for migrants. A Pied Flycatcher and male Whinchat were seen well, many of the warblers in contrast proving difficult to see. The highlight was a pair of European Turtle Doves; we wondered if we would find any back in the UK this year. We returned to the hotel at 5.30pm, dropping off those who wanted the chance to relax or explore locally before spending another hour in the field. The local dogs took some negotiating, but we succeeded in our mission to find Maghreb Wheatear, seeing a male at very close range and a female a little further away. The group reconvened at 8pm for drinks and another splendid dinner, this time of couscous. Today s bird list was smaller, but we had seen some quality desert and mountain birds on a second successive day of minimal driving. Sunday 10 th April At 7am we met in the restaurant for breakfast, some of us sitting on the terrace to enjoy the views one last time. We bade farewell to the ever-helpful staff before setting off at 7.45am, and made excellent progress on our journey. There was time for a relaxed coffee stop at Tinejdad before, at 10.45am, we arrived at a wellknown roadside wadi east of Goulmima. Our relatively early departure from the hotel was designed to allow us to reach this spot before it got too hot and, as last year, the temperature was actually perfect for birding! We walked a little way before concentrating our efforts on the low vegetation, doing our best to make sure the sun was behind us. Everyone was splendidly focused, looking for anything that moved, especially if it was small and low to the ground! The first birds proved to be a pair of Spectacled Warblers and we took time to enjoy them. Then I heard the tell-tale call of our number one target, and although it disappeared too quickly for some, it wasn t long before we had tracked down a family group of Saharan Scrub Warblers. We watched the birds on the ground, tails cocked as always, and occasionally one would perch up. Everyone got wonderful views, and one of our number managed to take an excellent photo, a real triumph given the fidgety nature of this species. Other birds in the area included Trumpeter Finch, Desert Wheatear and Thick-billed Lark, today relegated to being merely supporting cast! At midday we returned to the bus, buoyant, and less than an hour later we were feasting on a superb brochettes lunch in Ar-Rachidia; it had definitely been worth phoning ahead to arrange it. In the afternoon we made a photostop at a well-placed viewpoint where the scenery was awesome, the palm tree filled Ziz Valley below us providing such a contrast to the desert above. North African Ravens were taking advantage of the wind and performing acrobatics for us! We passed through Erfoud and made a pit stop north of Rissani in a splendid Kasbah hotel. I had hoped we might spend time birding the fields east of the town but, very suddenly, the wind brought a dust storm and visibility was limited to say the least. We did have cause to disembark once, for a migrating group of Lesser Kestrels: a real bonus. Making haste along the new road to Merzouga, we arrived at our luxurious hotel a little after 5pm. We were pleased to be able to walk out the back; there, right in front of us, were the Erg Chebbi dunes! We hoped that the weather would be kinder over the next day or two and allow us to see them at their best. There was time to relax before we met up in the bar prior to an excellent dinner. Prudently, we retired early, eagerly anticipating our big day ahead. Monday 11 th April We met for breakfast at 6.15am and, 45 minutes later, boarded two 4x4 vehicles for our desert day. As in 2015 we didn t have a local bird guide with us, but this wasn t a problem as Utman, one of the drivers, knew all the sites and Hassan, the other, spoke excellent English. As usual my emotions were a mix of high excitement and nervous anticipation! It wasn t long before we came across our first Greater Hoopoe Larks and Brown-necked Ravens. It was important to savour every bird today, but early on we also needed to keep to some sort of schedule, as we had an 8am rendezvous on the other side of Erg Chebbi with Spotted Sandgrouse, and they wouldn t wait if we Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 5

7 were late! Using the first, lighter, vehicle to make two shifts through the sand for the last mile or so, we all had fabulous views both in flight and on the ground. Between us we saw three or four groups, in total approaching 100 birds. The dunes, seen with the light behind us, were simply breathtaking; we felt really privileged to be in such a wonderful place. Several Black Kites were noted heading north as we made for our second target species. The family of Desert Sparrows nesting in a small building had recently fledged, but the male bird was still in situ and seemed oblivious to our presence, actually getting closer and closer as it fed on the ground. Sadly this species is few and far between now, largely as a result of House Sparrows increasing. Dung Beetles provided a welcome distraction before we drove on, finding a Barbary Falcon perched on the ground, a real stroke of luck. The second vehicle got stuck in the sand briefly, much to the amusement of Utman, the senior pro, before we continued across the desert. An adult and juvenile Cream-coloured Courser were enjoyed before we found an even bigger prize. Grassy areas are home to African Desert Warblers and, as we were heading to one stakeout for them, we unexpectedly found our own pair in a different location. They showed incredibly well to all and allowed the photographers to get remarkably close. The colour of these birds is so similar to the sand! At 10.30am we drove towards a lone figure in the desert. As in previous years, a nomad had got up before dawn to locate Egyptian Nightjars at their daytime roost, and we had already been in contact with him by phone and established that he had successfully found two this morning. From a suitable distance we marvelled at the first of them, unbelievably well camouflaged in the sun, before briefly looking at the second, in shade, virtually impossible to locate with the naked eye! The nomad s son, and a friend, were there to savour the moment with us. I have to say I find watching this species (and actually even writing about it later) a moving and humbling experience; we were so very fortunate once again. We had been so spectacularly successful, without in any way rushing around, that we arrived at our lunch spot very early indeed, so had to be extremely patient! Nevertheless, it was nice to be in shade and there was plenty to reflect on (and numerous photos to look at) before our salad and brochettes finally arrived. Back in the vehicles it was clear that the temperature was hotter than at any time during the tour, no great surprise. We headed north, past the auberge where we had stayed in previous years, and having driven a short distance along the old main road we once again headed off piste. It required something of a yomp along the base of some cliffs to get to the fifth and last of our major target species, but our efforts were rewarded. A fabulous Pharaoh Eagle Owl was sitting quietly in the shade and the scope views were awesome. This was, we discovered, a new site and we were just the second group to visit it. I chatted with the drivers and we decided there was time to birdwatch one more site. So we headed south-west to Rissani where, in the fields south of the town centre, we located a group of Fulvous Babblers, local knowledge once again proving invaluable. A flyover Short-toed Eagle was a bonus. We decided against looking for Lanner Falcons so declared instead and headed back to our hotel. There was plenty of time to unwind before we met up to celebrate our incredible day s birding in the bar and, subsequently, in the restaurant. For me the Morocco spring desert day is one of the most exciting it is possible to have in the Western Palaearctic; today really couldn t have gone much better. Tuesday 12 th April After the excitement of the previous day we decided on a leisurely start, with breakfast at 8am and departure an hour later. The early risers were able to enjoy seeing the sun rise over the Erg Chebbi dunes, with many and varied photo opportunities as the light and shadows changed minute by minute: truly magical! More routinely, the tamarisks held a few migrants including an Iberian Chiffchaff. Half an hour into our journey a small bird flew across the road in front of the bus and landed in a palm. I asked Abdelhak to stop and we quickly got out. As I suspected, it was a Rufous Bush Robin! It disappeared quickly but a second, male bird was much more obliging, singing its heart out at point blank range! It occasionally dropped to the ground where it strutted around in typical cocked tail pose. Having photographed the Rissani gate, and made a well-timed comfort stop, we turned left near Erfoud, taking us along a different route via Jorf. I had allowed a little contingency time for a birding stop, and we spent a productive and enjoyable half-hour watching Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters near their nesting holes in the roadside sand banks. A Plain Tiger butterfly whizzed by all too quickly. Thereafter we had no need to stop in the desert, Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 6

8 having already completed a full set of the possible species, so pushed on to Tinejdad for lunch, seeing numerous White-crowned Wheatears wherever there was habitation. Most people dozed as we headed west through Tinerhir towards Boumalne. We stopped to stretch our legs at a birdless Ikniouen Road before taking tea in El Kelaa. Despite the wind I decided we should head to a spot with a vista over the north side of Mansour Lake. The views were impressive, and although birding was hard work we did find another pair of Rufous Bush Robins and see a distant flock of 60 Gull-billed Terns. At 6.30pm we arrived in Ouarzazate, pleased to have negotiated the longest journey of the tour and seen some good birds along the way. We were surprised to find that dinner was a three course meal rather than a buffet, the restaurant being much quieter than on our first visit. Wednesday 13 th April It was wonderfully sunny, calm and clear for our return to Mansour Lake. Given how well we had done on our first visit, it was difficult to add any new species, but we did so in the form of Common Sandpiper and, more significantly, Black Tern, three of which were resplendent in their summer plumage as they fed in front of us. We also had better views this time of Whiskered Tern and Marbled Duck, whilst the number of Greater Flamingos had risen to 23. We were simply happy to enjoy the fact that so many of the birds were now familiar to us having been new just a few days earlier. At 10am we headed west. I decided to make the short detour to the Amerzgane desert road, and was thrilled that a pair of Maghreb Wheatears was present, and co-operative, right by the road. We then retraced our steps over the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass; with the light behind us, the scenery seemed totally different, particularly in the valley on our ascent, so it actually felt like a new journey. We paused briefly at the summit before descending through the hairpins for lunch in the same restaurant as on the way; we were warmly welcomed back. Most of us walked up the valley opposite, some glimpsing a Vagrant Emperor, our first and only dragonfly of the trip. We enjoyed lovely views of a range of butterflies and birds, including a Moussier s Redstart and a singing male Western Subalpine Warbler of the breeding race. We saw another of the latter when we stopped again, also finding a beautiful Spanish Festoon butterfly. It was, however, becoming apparent that for most of us Barbary Partridge would be the one that got away. We stopped briefly in the pines, but traffic was surprisingly heavy so we didn t linger. Instead we headed down into the lowlands. I suggested to the group that it was worth looking out for Black-eared Wheatear on the wires and almost immediately, as if by magic, we found a male! It allowed us to obtain scope views, and we found a female nearby. Thereafter we were on the lookout for one more new species. Turning right onto a newly dualled piece of road, we were in luck. Several Maghreb Common Magpies showed very well, allowing us to see the blue spot behind the eye and the long tail. We arrived at our hotel to the north-west of the city centre at 6.10pm. Ninety minutes later we met in the bar to run through our checklist and vote on the top ten birds of the tour, before the group headed to a surprisingly busy restaurant for the final dinner together. Thursday 14 th April On our final morning, we awoke to a splendid dawn chorus and could hear purring European Turtle Doves from our rooms! There was a wide variety of passerines in the extensive gardens, the main reason I had specifically chosen this hotel for our last night; Spotted Flycatcher was a trip tick for most. A dark phase Booted Eagle low overhead was instructive as always, whilst we had a final chance to enjoy Red-rumped Swallows and compare Common, Pallid and Little Swifts. At 11am those of us flying to Gatwick headed off, taking in Koutoubia Mosque en route to the airport. Those heading to Manchester had the afternoon to enjoy the grounds for a little longer. All of us had straightforward flights home, the winds in the south meaning journey times were short once again. We looked forward to sharing bird and scenery photographs in the following days as memories of an excellent holiday together. Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 7

9 Birds of the Trip (voted by the group) 1 st Egyptian Nightjar 2 nd Thick-billed Lark 3 rd Moussier s Redstart 4 th Desert Sparrow 5 th Blue-cheeked Bee-eater 6 th Collared Pratincole 7 th Maghreb Wheatear 8 th Saharan Scrub Warbler 9 th Greater Hoopoe Lark 10 th African Crimson-winged Finch Acknowledgements I am grateful to Brian Small and Santi Villa for their help and encouragement before and during the tour respectively; it was great to have bird news which was up to date. Thanks as always to our ground agents. Abdelhak, our driver, drove carefully and was unfailingly punctual and helpful; he was instrumental in making this trip such a success. Thanks to all of you for being such good company, helping each other see the birds, sharing your telescopes so readily and being so enthusiastic during the tour; I very much look forward to travelling with you again. Finally, thanks to Ed Keeble for his assistance in preparing the photographs for this report and to Alan Burrows and Ann Kelly for allowing us to use your images. David Walsh Ornitholidays 29 Straight Mile Romsey Hants SO51 9BB Tel: info@ornitholidays.co.uk May 2016 Dades Valley Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 8

10 Itinerary and Weather 5 th April Early afternoon flight from London Gatwick / late afternoon flight from Manchester; transfer to our hotel in south Marrakech for a one night stay (elevation 450m). 6 th April Birding in and around Oukaimeden (ski resort at elevation 2,700m). One night stay in the Ourika Valley (elevation 1,100m). Mostly sunny, but cloudy at mid altitude, 9-18 C. 7 th April Birding in lowlands, woodland and mountains en route to lunch just north of the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass (elevation 2,260m). Afternoon drive up and over the pass then down to the Amerzgane desert road and onwards to Ouarzazate for a one night stay (elevation 1,150m). Sunny, 5-24 C. 8 th April Morning birding at Mansour Lake. Lunch at El Kelaa M Gouna en route to Boumalne du Dadès for a two night stay (elevation 1,600m). Short break at hotel before late afternoon birding along the Ikniouen Road. Sunny, C. 9 th April Pre-breakfast birding in the desert near Boumalne. Lunch and early afternoon birding in the Todra Gorge. Afternoon birding in an oasis grove east of Imiter and in the desert near Boumalne. Sunny, C. 10 th April Drive via Tinejdad and the desert east of Goulmima to Ar-Rachidia for lunch. Afternoon drive down the Ziz Valley to Erfoud and Rissani then onwards to Merzouga for a two-night stay (elevation 750m). Sunny am, increasingly windy pm with dust storm in desert, C. 11 th April Desert drive in 4x4 vehicles in the Merzouga and Rissani areas, with a restaurant lunch near the Erg Chebbi sand dunes. Sunny, windy pm, C. 12 th April Birding stops in Rissani and near Jorf en route to Tinejdad for lunch. Further breaks at the Ikniouen Road and the north side of Mansour Lake. One-night stay in Ouarzazate. Sunny, windy, C. 13 th April Morning birding at Mansour Lake and the Amerzgane desert road. Drive to Marrakech via the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, with stops in open and woodland areas, for a one-night stay. Sunny, C. 14 th April Birding in hotel grounds, then transfer to Marrakech airport for early afternoon flight to London Gatwick / evening flight to Manchester. Temminck s Lark Bath White Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 9

11 CHECKLIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING THE TOUR No of days recorded Locations Abundance scale Maximum seen (on one day) 1 2h means seen on 1 day M = Marrakech and lowlands 1 = 1-4 and heard on 2 other days A = Atlas Mountains/Ourika Valley 2 = 5-9 O = Ouarzazate area inc Mansour Lake 3 = B = Boumalne area inc Tagdilt/Todra 4 = D = Eastern Deserts 5 = 1,000+ Species No of days recorded Locations Abundance Scale Scientific Name Ruddy Shelduck 2 O 3 Tadorna ferruginea Mallard 2 O 3 Anas platyrhynchos Marbled Duck 2 O 3 Marmaronetta angustirostris Barbary Partridge 1 A 1 Alectoris barbara Little Grebe 2 O 2 Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe 3 O 3 Podiceps cristatus Great Cormorant 2 O 3 Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis Cattle Egret 8 M A O B 3 Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron 1 O 1 Ardeola ralloides Little Egret 3 O 2 Egretta garzetta Grey Heron 2 O 3 Ardea cinerea White Stork 4 M O B 3 Ciconia ciconia Glossy Ibis 2 O 3 Plegadis falcinellus Eurasian Spoonbill 2 O 1 Platalea leucorodia Greater Flamingo 2 O 3 Phoenicopterus roseus Short-toed Eagle 1 D 1 Circaetus gallicus Booted Eagle 3 M A 1 Aquila pennata Bonelli s Eagle 1 B 1 Aquila fasciata Black Kite 4 B D 1 Milvus migrans Western Marsh Harrier 2 O B 1 Circus aeruginosus Montagu's Harrier 1 O 1 Circus pygargus "Atlas" Long-legged Buzzard* 4 A B 1 Buteo rufinus cirtensis Eurasian Sparrowhawk 2 A 1 Accipiter nisus Common Kestrel 7 M A O B 2 Falco tinnunculus Lesser Kestrel 1 D 2 Falco naumanni Peregrine Falcon 1 A 1 Falco peregrinus Barbary Falcon 1 D 1 Falco pelegrinoides Eurasian Coot 2 O 3 Fulica atra Red-knobbed Coot 1 O 1 Fulica cristata Pied Avocet 1 O 1 Recurvirostra avosetta Black-winged Stilt 2 O 3 Himantopus himantopus Cream-coloured Courser 2 B D 2 Cursorius cursor Collared Pratincole 2 O 3 Glareola pratincola Little Ringed Plover 2 O 2 Charadrius dubius Common Ringed Plover 2 O 3 Charadrius hiaticula Kentish Plover 2 O 2 Charadrius alexandrinus Little Stint 2 O 2 Calidris minuta Common Sandpiper 1 O 1 Actitis hypoleucos Wood Sandpiper 2 O 2 Tringa glareola Common Greenshank 2 O 1 Tringa nebularia Black-headed Gull 2 O 1 Chroicocephalus ridibundus Gull-billed Tern 2 O 3 Gelochelidon nilotica Black Tern 1 O 1 Chlidonias niger Whiskered Tern 2 O 1 Chlidonias hybrida Spotted Sandgrouse 1 D 3 Pterocles senegallus Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) 10 M A O B D 4 Columba livia Common Wood Pigeon 4 M A 3 Columba palumbus Eurasian Collared Dove 10 M A O B D 4 Streptopelia decaocto European Turtle Dove 5 M B D 1 Streptopelia turtur Laughing Dove 6 M O B D 3 Streptopelia senegalensis Common Cuckoo 3 A 1 Cuculus canorus Pharaoh Eagle Owl* 1 D 1 Bubo ascalaphus Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 10

12 "Desert" Little Owl* 2 M O 1 Athene noctua glaux/saharae Egyptian Nightjar 1 D 1 Caprimulgus aegyptius saharae Common Swift 2 M O 3 Apus apus Pallid Swift 7 M O B 3 Apus pallidus Little Swift 3 M A 3 Apus affinis galilejensis Eurasian Hoopoe 1 B 1 Upupa epops European Bee-eater 7 M A O B D 3 Merops apiaster Blue-cheeked Bee-eater 3 O D 3 Merops persicus chrysocercus Levaillant's Green Woodpecker 2 A 1 Picus vaillantii Great Spotted Woodpecker 2 1h A 1 Dendrocopos major mauritanus Eurasian Wryneck 1 A 1 Jynx torquilla Crested Lark* 2 M 2 Galerida cristata riggenbachi "Maghreb" (Crested) Lark* 5 O D 2 Galerida (cristata) macrorhyncha Thekla Lark 5 A B D 2 Galerida theklae Greater Short-toed Lark 1 B 2 Calandrella brachydactyla Desert Lark* 6 O B D 2 Ammomanes deserti payni Bar-tailed Lark 4 B D 1 Ammomanes cinctura arenicolor Thick-billed Lark 3 B D 2 Ramphocoris clotbey "Atlas" Horned Lark (Shore Lark)* 1 A 2 Eremophila alpestris atlas Temminck s Lark 2 B 2 Eremophila bilopha Greater Hoopoe Lark 1 D 2 Alaemon alaudipes Common Sand Martin 2 O B 3 Riparia riparia Eurasian Crag Martin 3 A B 2 Ptyonoprogne rupestris Barn Swallow 8 M A O B 3 Hirundo rustica Red-rumped Swallow 3 M A B 2 Cecropis daurica rufula Tree Pipit 1 B 1 Anthus trivialis White Wagtail* 1 O 1 Motacilla alba alba "Moroccan" White Wagtail* 2 O 1 Motacilla alba subpersonata "Blue-headed" Yellow Wagtail* 1 O 1 Motacilla flava flava "Spanish" Yellow Wagtail* 2 O 3 Motacilla flava iberiae Grey Wagtail 3 A B 1 Motacilla cinerea "Atlas" White-throated Dipper* 1 A 1 Cinclus cinclus minor European Robin 1 1h A 1 Erithacus rubecula Common Nightingale 2 2h M A B 3 Luscinia megarhynchos Rufous Bush Robin 2 O D 2 Cercotrichas galactotes Common Redstart 2 B D 1 Phoenicurus phoenicurus Black Redstart 2 A O 1 Phoenicurus ochruros gibraltariensis Moussier s Redstart 3 A 1 Phoenicurus moussieri Northern Wheatear 4 B D 1 Oenanthe oenanthe Seebohm's Wheatear 1 A 2 Oenanthe seebohmi Black-eared Wheatear* 1 M 1 Oenanthe hispanica hispanica Maghreb Wheatear* 2 O B 1 Oenanthe halophila White-crowned Wheatear 6 O B D 3 Oenanthe leucopyga aegra Black Wheatear 5 A O B D 2 Oenanthe leucura syenitica Desert Wheatear 6 O B D 2 Oenanthe deserti homochroa Red-rumped Wheatear 1 B 2 Oenanthe moesta Whinchat 1 B 1 Saxicola rubetra "Moroccan" Common Blackbird* 9 M A O B D 3 Turdus merula mauritanicus Blue Rock Thrush 4 A B 1 Monticola solitarius Garden Warbler 1 B 1 Sylvia borin Blackcap 2 A B 1 Sylvia atricapilla Sardinian Warbler 3 M A 1 Sylvia melanocephala Common Whitethroat 2 M B 1 Sylvia communis Spectacled Warbler 1 D 1 Sylvia conspicillata Western Subalpine Warbler* 6 A O B D 1 Sylvia inornata iberiae Western Subalpine Warbler* 1 A 1 Sylvia inornata inornata Tristram s Warbler 1 A 1 Sylvia deserticola African Desert Warbler* 1 D 1 Sylvia deserti Saharan Scrub Warbler* 1 D 2 Scotocerca saharae Sedge Warbler 2 O 1 Acrocephalus schoenobaenus European Reed Warbler 1 B 1 Acrocephalus scirpaceus Cetti s Warbler 1 2h A B 1 Cettia cetti Melodious Warbler 2 B D 1 Hippolais polyglotta "Saharan" Eastern Olivaceous Warbler* 4 O D 2 Iduna pallida reiseri Western Olivaceous Warbler* 5 M A B 1 Iduna opaca Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 11

13 Willow Warbler 2 M B 1 Phylloscopus trochilus Western Bonelli's Warbler 5 A O B D 1 Phylloscopus bonelli Common Chiffchaff 4 O B D 1 Phylloscopus collybita Iberian Chiffchaff* 1 D 1 Phylloscopus ibericus Firecrest 2 1h A 1 Regulus ignicapilla balearicus Winter Wren 1 1h A 1 Troglodytes troglodytes Spotted Flycatcher 2 M 1 Muscicapa striata Pied Flycatcher 1 B 1 Ficedula hypoleuca Great Tit 2 A 1 Parus major excelsus "Atlas" Coal Tit* 2 1h A 2 Periparus ater atlas African Blue Tit* 4 A B 1 Cyanistes teneriffae ultramarinus "Desert" Great Grey Shrike* 4 M D 1 Lanius excubitor elegans Woodchat Shrike 7 A O B D 1 Lanius senator Common Bulbul 9 M A O B D 3 Pycnonotus barbatus Fulvous Babbler 1 D 3 Turdoides fulva maroccana "Maghreb" Common Magpie* 1 M 2 Pica pica mauritanica Red-billed Chough 2 A 3 Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax barbarus Alpine Chough 1 A 4 Pyrrhocorax graculus "North African" Common Raven* 2 A D 3 Corvus corax tingitanus Brown-necked Raven 2 D 3 Corvus ruficollis Spotless Starling 5 M 3 Sturnus unicolor House Sparrow 9 M A O B D 4 Passer domesticus tingitanus Desert Sparrow 1 D 1 Passer simplex saharae Common Rock Sparrow 1 A 1 Petronia petronia barbara "North African" Common Chaffinch* 3 M A 3 Fringilla coelebs africana Common Linnet 1 M 1 Carduelis cannabina European Goldfinch 4 A B D 1 Carduelis carduelis parva European Greenfinch 3 M A B 3 Chloris chloris voousi European Serin 5 M A O B 3 Serinus serinus Hawfinch* 1 A 1 Coccothraustes coccothraustes buvryi "Atlas" Common Crossbill* 2 A 1 Loxia curvirostra poliogyna Trumpeter Finch 4 B D 1 Bucanetes githagineus zedlitzi African Crimson-winged Finch* 1 A 2 Rhodopechys alienus Cirl Bunting 2 A 1 Emberiza cirlus Rock Bunting 3 A 1 Emberiza cia House Bunting* 7 M A O B D 3 Emberiza sahari BUTTERFLIES Spanish Festoon Large White Small White Bath White Clouded Yellow Brimstone Green Hairstreak Chapman's Green Hairstreak Moroccan Hairstreak Small Copper Long-tailed Blue Black-eyed Blue Plain Tiger Speckled Wood DRAGONFLIES Vagrant Emperor MAMMALS Barbary Ground Squirrel Fat Sand Rat Zerynthia rumina Pieris brassicae Artogeia rapae Pontia daplidice Colias crocea Gonepteryx rhamni Callophrys rubi Callophrys avis Tomares mauretanicus Lycaena phlaeas Lampides boeticus Glaucopsyche melanops Danaus chrysippus Pararge aegeria aegeria Anax ephippiger Atlantoxerus getulus Psammomys obesus Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 12

14 Notes on the bird list The bird list broadly follows the order, nomenclature and taxonomy of the Collins Bird Guide 2 nd Edition (Svensson et al, 2009) which we used throughout the week, with a number of additions to English names reflecting the distinctive subspecies which were seen on the tour. The guide was reprinted in 2015, and the new version contains a small number of significant changes (see the link in the references for a full list). Many of the updates are also found on the Collins Bird Guide App. In the checklist, birds with the same genus are listed together, even if this means the order is slightly different from that in Collins. The following gives some background notes on taxonomy/plumage for the species marked * on the list. Atlas Long-legged Buzzard Collins illustrates the North African subspecies cirtensis, sometimes known as Atlas Long-legged Buzzard. We had a number of excellent sightings during the tour, including a pair mating in the desert just east of Boumalne. Pharaoh Eagle Owl Pharoah Eagle Owl Bubo ascalaphus, inhabiting deserts in North Africa and the Middle East, has recently been split from the larger and darker Eurasian Eagle Owl B. bubo of the forests and mountains in Europe and the northern Middle East. We were thrilled to see one on a cliff ledge north-east of Rissani. Desert Little Owl Two races occur in Morocco, glaux and saharae, pale forms colloquially known as Desert Little Owl; another, similar, subspecies (lilith) is illustrated in Collins. We saw two by the road as we crossed the plains near Marrakech, and another perched on a building near Mansour Lake. Crested Lark/Maghreb Lark Several races of Crested Lark occur in Morocco; Collins illustrates one of the North African subspecies, showing the ground colour and bill shape. In lowland fields south-east of Marrakech we saw riggenbacchi (which mainly occurs west of the Atlas Mountains). The birds seen around Mansour Lake, and near Rissani, were macrorhyncha, which we referred to as Long-billed Crested Lark (for obvious reasons); this has very recently been given specific status by the IOC as Maghreb Lark G. macrorhycha. Desert Lark The Moroccan race payni is illustrated in Collins as an example of the geographical variation of Desert Lark. This species was unusually numerous on our tour; we had excellent views near Amerzgane, between Boumalne and Tinerhir, and in the desert near our Pharoah Eagle Owl. Atlas Horned Lark (Shore Lark) The race atlas is one of 42 subspecies listed by the IOC and is endemic to the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. We had fabulous views at Oukaimeden just beyond the ski lift. The IOC notes state that gene trees suggest that Palearctic clades comprise five independent evolutionary units that merit species status. Their list includes atlas, so the Moroccan birds may well be split as a separate species at some stage in the future. White Wagtail/ Moroccan White Wagtail We saw a single White Wagtail of the nominate race alba on our first visit to Mansour Lake; it is a winter visitor from Europe. The distinctive Moroccan Wagtail subpersonata is illustrated in Collins; an uncommon breeding bird, it is treated as a full species by many authorities, but not the IOC. We had prolonged views of at least two on both visits to Mansour Lake. Yellow Wagtail There are numerous races of Yellow Wagtail, many of which are illustrated in Collins. We had good views of Spanish (iberiae) and Blue-headed (flava) at Mansour Lake. The former was especially numerous and vocal. Atlas White-throated Dipper The race minor is endemic to north-west Africa; we were pleased to find a pair in the stream below Oukaimeden. Seebohm s Wheatear Collins treats this as a full species Oenanthe seebohmi; it breeds in the mountains of north-west Africa, wintering in West Africa. We had splendid views of newly arrived birds on territory at Oukaimeden. The IOC continues to regard it as a subspecies of Northern Wheatear: Oenanthe oenanthe seebohmi. Black-eared Wheatear Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 13

15 The race which breeds in Morocco is hispanica and is illustrated in Collins. We found a pair, including a dark-throated male, by the roadside on our way back to Marrakech. Maghreb Wheatear Collins gives Maghreb Wheatear Oenanthe halophila specific status; unlike Mourning Wheatear O. lugens, which occurs in the Middle East, there is clear sexual dimorphism. We were very pleased to find pairs near Boumalne and south of Amerzgane. The IOC continues to treat it as a subspecies of Mourning Wheatear: Oenanthe lugens halophila. Moroccan Common Blackbird Compared with UK birds, the female of the race mauritanicus, Moroccan Blackbird, is much greyer and has a yellower bill. It is not illustrated in Collins. Western Subalpine Warbler The 2015 revised version of Collins illustrates three distinct species, Eastern Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans (southeast Europe), Moltoni s Warbler S. subalpina (Balearic Islands, Corsica, Sardinia and north Italy) and Western Subalpine Warbler S. inornata (south-west Europe and north-west Africa). We saw the breeding race of Western Subalpine Warbler S. i. inornata at two sites in the hills, whilst migrant birds were seen regularly during the tour; these were most likely to have been S. i. iberiae. The IOC splits Moltoni s but has not yet split Western and Eastern. For details on the plumage differences between inornata and iberiae, see the Surfbirds paper by Brian Small listed in the references below. African Desert Warbler Collins follows the IOC in splitting African Desert Warbler Sylvia deserti (North Africa) from Asian Desert Warbler S. nana (Middle East and Asia). On our 4x4 desert day we were heading towards a specific site to search for this species when we bumped into a pair in another patch of suitable habitat. We had prolonged, close views, for many of us one of the highlights of the tour. Saharan Scrub Warbler The 2015 revised version of Collins splits Saharan Scrub Warbler Scotocerca saharae of north-west Africa from Levant Scrub Warbler S. inquieta which is found in the Middle East. The IOC continues to treat them as one species, Streaked Scrub Warbler, the Moroccan birds S. i. saharae. Within Saharan Scrub Warbler, it is widely considered that there are two races, with the birds seen in eastern and southern Morocco saharae and a different, endemic, subspecies theresae found in south-western Morocco (eg near Guelmim). Both are illustrated in 2015 Collins. A recent paper in Dutch Birding suggested that in fact the birds in Morocco are all the same race, with plumage variations based on ecological circumstances. We had cracking views of a family group in a wadi north-east of Goulmima. Western and Eastern Olivaceous Warblers Western Olivaceous Warbler, actually called Isabelline Warbler in Collins, was seen and heard singing in several localities on our tour. We saw the race reiseri of Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, often called Saharan Eastern Olivaceous, in and around Rissani and Merzouga and in the bushes at Mansour Lake. It is clearly different from Western, being smaller, and constantly pumping its tail. Those interested were able to compare the different songs of the two species. Iberian Chiffchaff Formerly treated as a race of Common Chiffchaff, Iberian Chiffchaff is now established as a full species on account of its different song/call as well as its migration habits (it winters in tropical West Africa). We did our best to tentatively identify one individual at our Merzouga hotel. Atlas Coal Tit The race atlas is endemic to Morocco. We had excellent views in the Atlas Mountains, both at the roadside stop on the way down from Oukaimeden and in the pines at Toufliht. African Blue Tit Collins splits African Blue Tit Cyanistes teneriffae from European Blue Tit C. caeruleus. The subspecies in Morocco is ultramarinus, illustrated in Collins; it has a wing-bar, unlike the race on Tenerife. All races have a grey-blue, not green, back and a dark, blackish-blue crown. We had several excellent sightings during the tour. Desert Great Grey Shrike In Collins 1 st Edition the Moroccan birds were illustrated as L. e. algeriensis, a race of Great Grey Shrike, with birds of various races throughout Europe and beyond also considered subspecies of Great Grey. Subsequent to its publication, some other authorities split the birds in North Africa, Iberia and Southern France, calling them Southern Grey Shrike L. Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 14

16 meridionalis. However, the Collins 2 nd Edition doesn t use the name Southern Grey at all; it has split only the birds from Iberia and Southern France, calling them Iberian Grey Shrike L. meridionalis, and leaving the North African birds as subspecies of Great Grey Shrike as in the 1 st edition. In the future, it seems likely that the birds in Morocco will actually be split further as Desert Grey Shrike L. elegans; this split has already been proposed. It has a somewhat bigger white wing patch and whiter underparts, making it distinctly different from the birds seen occasionally in winter in the UK. We had good views in the lowlands near Marrakech and on our 4x4 desert day. The IOC lists the birds in Morocco as a race of Southern Grey Shrike, Lanius meridionalis elegans. Maghreb Common Magpie The north-west African race mauritanica is clearly identifiable by the blue spot behind the eye and the very long tail, and is illustrated in Collins. We saw several shortly before arriving back in Marrakech. It has been suggested that this form may warrant specific status as Maghreb Magpie. The IOC notes say that MtDNA phylogeny suggests that Eurasian Magpie comprises several potential species including Korean Magpie P. sericea, Maghreb Magpie P. mauritanica and Asir Magpie P. asirensis. North African Common Raven The race tingitanus which occurs in Morocco is smaller than the nominate race and its call is not as deep. We saw several from the viewpoint in the Ziz Valley. North African Common Chaffinch North African Chaffinch (F. c. africana) is very distinctive, with the male having crown/nape blue-grey, mantle bright green and the breast/belly pale pink. We had many excellent views in the Ourika Valley and at Oukaimeden. Hawfinch The race buvryi is endemic to north-west Africa and is distinguished by its slightly paler head and body and less white in the tail. Many of us had good scope views across the valley on our descent from Oukaimeden as we maintained our vigil for Levaillant s Green Woodpecker! Atlas Common Crossbill Common Crossbills gradually become paler from northern Europe down to north-west Africa. The subspecies in Morocco is poliogyna, sometimes known as Atlas Common Crossbill; the ground colour of the plumage is ash-grey, the feather tips of the head and body of adult males are pink-red, the rump is uniform rosy-pink, the belly is rosy-red with some white spots/streaks. The song and call are, to the trained ear, different from those of UK birds. We had good scope views of a male in the pine forests near Toufliht as we headed towards the Tizi-n-Tichka pass. African Crimson-winged Finch Collins 2015 splits sanguineus (Turkey, Middle East and Central Asia) from alienus (Atlas Mountains, NW Africa). African Crimson-winged Finch is subtly larger with a longer bill and a shorter tail; the face is less red, with none before the supercilium; the nape is greyer, and the back/flanks lack dark spotting; the rump is darker rufous, ie not so pink; there is also less pink in the wing; the male has more restricted black on the cap; the chin and throat are pale grey-white. We had excellent views of a small number near the ski lift car park at Oukaimeden. House Bunting House Bunting Emberiza sahari (North Africa) is now an established split from Striolated Bunting E. striolata (Middle East). We saw several in as well as around our hotels! References Collins Bird Guide revised 2 nd Edition by L. Svensson, K. Mullarney, D. Zetterstrom and P. Grant (HarperCollins 2015) List of changes between the 2009 and 2015 versions of Collins 2nd edition: International Ornithological Congress: Distribution, habitat, identification and taxonomy of Streaked Scrub Warbler in Morocco by P. Bergier, M. Thevenot, A. van den Berg and the Sound Approach (Dutch Birding 35: ) Identification of male Subalpine Warblers (Brian J Small): The Birds of Morocco by M. Thevenot, R. Vernon and P. Bergier (BOU 2003) These lists represent the birds, butterflies, dragonflies and mammals recorded by the group members on this tour. Ornitholidays Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 15

17 White-crowned Wheatear African Crimson-winged Finch Atlas Horned Lark Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Collared Pratincole Cream-coloured Courser Desert Little Owl Egyptian Nightjar Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 16

18 Greater Hoopoe Lark Levaillant s Green Woodpecker Maghreb Wheatear Moussier s Redstart Saharan Scrub Warbler Seebohm s Wheatear Pharaoh Eagle Owl Rufous Bush Robin Front cover: Erg Chebbi All photographs A Burrows, A Kelly & D Walsh Ornitholidays' Tour to Morocco April 2016 Page 17