Rapid LED NanoCube 28 HQI Retrofit

Transcription

1 Rapid LED NanoCube 28 HQI Retrofit Contents Foreword... 1 Outline... 2 Hood Preparation... 2 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together... 5 Thermal Grease... 5 Soldering Notes... 6 Tinning Wire and LEDs... 6 Tinning LEDs... 6 Wiring the LED String(s)... 7 Attaching the Heatsink to the NC28 HQI Hood... 8 Wiring Fans... 9 Wiring the LED Strings to 5-Wire Bundle (Power Wire) Wiring Drivers to the 5-Wire Bundle Wiring the Driver to AC Power Using a Meanwell Dimmable Driver (Skip if using a non-dimmable driver) Wiring the Driver Dimmer Wires Adjusting Driver Current Do this before applying power Adjusting Driver Current with a Multimeter Using a Rapid LED Nano Dimmable Driver with 700mA Max. Current (Skip if not using this driver) Finish Foreword As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The NC28 HQI retrofit should be attempted by those familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, soldering LEDs, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of some contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with potential hazards, dangers, or pitfalls that may occur in the course of performing 1

2 this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the individual LEDs in your hood. If you are using the kit with the Aurora array, refer to the instructions located here: JBJ Nanocube28 HQI Aurora Array Instructions Outline Here is a general outline of steps we think end up with the easiest retrofit: 1. Remove unnecessary components from hood (everything but fans). 2. Attach LEDs to heatsink and wire up LED string 3. Complete wiring for LEDs, driver and fans. 4. Close hood and test. Hood Preparation In this step, we only need to remove the cover and HQI socket reflector assembly. First, remove all 27 screws holding down the plastic cover. Remove it along with the glass. Next, remove the HQI bulb and the four screws holding down the reflector: 2

3 Next, we need to disconnect the HQI socket power wires. To get to the wires, unscrew the PCB from its mount in the hood. Remove the three (orange) wire nuts connecting the HQI socket and reflector. They are underneath the PCB. The three pairs are Black-White, White-White and White to Yellow-Green 3

4 After removing the three wire nuts, cut the zip ties bundling them with the rest of the wires and remove the reflector. Your hood should look like the picture below: 4

5 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together In the next set of steps, we will attach the LEDs to the heatsink, tin the LEDs and the wire used to connect the LEDs together, and then wire the LEDs together. After all of this is complete, we will insert the heatsink into the hood of the NC28 HQI. Thermal Grease We need to apply thermal grease to the back of each LED before securing it to the heatsink. Thermal grease ensures proper thermal conductivity of heat away from the LED into the heatsink. A very small dab of grease on the back of each LED is all that is necessary. More is NOT necessarily better. Too little will lower conductivity and too much will create a mess. A thin layer works best. The photo below indicates approximately about how much thermal grease should be applied. After the thermal grease has been applied to the star, screw it into the heatsink with two little screws, adjusting the height of the two fastening screws to center the LED between them. Do not over tighten. The screws should be snug but not tight. When screwing down the LEDs, ensure the screw is not touching any solder or solder pads. This will ground the string at that point and cause strange behavior and possibly, damage. Example of properly secured LEDs: 5

6 Soldering Notes Now that the LEDs are securely attached to the heatsink with thermal grease, any heat applied to the solder pads (the little gold pads) of the LEDs will be quickly conducted away into the heatsink. When soldering, this will be a problem if your soldering iron does not have a clean, tinned tip (new is best) or does not have enough power we recommend at least a 50 watt soldering iron. An iron that does not produce enough heat will fail to melt the solder properly. This can result in a cold solder joint which has a very high probability of creating a short/intermittent connection, which has a high probability of destroying all of your LEDs. You should at most take 1-5 seconds to complete each solder joint. Leaving the iron touching a solder pad for longer than that is not advised. It also probably means your soldering iron is not hot enough or the wattage is too low. Tinning Wire and LEDs Tinning is the process of pre-coating the wire, or solder pad, in the case of an LED, with solder. Tinned wire and solder pads are more easily soldered together than non-tinned components. This step is to save headache and trouble later attempting to solder un-tinned components can cause huge problems down the line. To tin wire, heat the wire (not the solder) with the tip of a clean soldering iron for a few seconds. After the wire is heated, apply solder to the wire (not the tip of the iron). Since solder flows towards heat sources, it should melt on to and flow through the strands of the wire, coating them evenly. There are two photos below. The left is of un-tinned wire, the right is of the same wire tinned. Tinning LEDs LEDs are tinned similarly to wire. Press the tip of the soldering iron to the LED solder pad and apply solder near the tip of the iron. You do not need too much solder. You can tin all of the solder pads or only the ones you will use. The top photo below is an un-tinned LED. The photo below it has the bottom left solder pad tinned. If the pad does not get warm enough, the solder will not adhere well. Ensure some heat gets into the solder pad, but not too much. 6

7 Wiring the LED String(s) *****NEVER APPLY POWER TO THE LED DRIVER BEFORE ALL WIRING IS COMPLETE ***** Wiring the LEDs is done as a string in series. The string is a series circuit wired + to (or to +, depending on where you start) starting from one wire on the driver, from LED to LED, to the other wire on the driver. Below is a photograph of 13 Royal Blue XT-E LEDs wired together and marked + to all the way around with the string beginning with the leftmost + in the photo. Again, do NOT power the driver until the wiring is complete. You risk burning out your LEDs, a very expensive mistake. Repeat this process for each LED string. 7

8 You may have a separate driver for blue and white LEDs. If you do, ensure you attach at least the minimum number of LEDs for the particular model driver you have. Attaching the Heatsink to the NC28 HQI Hood There are 4 screws that attach the NC28 HQI heatsink to the hood, two on each side. Simply place the heatsink over the 4 mounting posts in the hood that line up with the heatsink holes and screw the heatsink to the hood. The screws only take a few twists to secure the heatsink to the hood. Be very careful to not over tighten the heatsink mounting screws as it is especially easy to do so with this retrofit. Your heatsink should now be securely fastened to the hood: 8

9 Wiring Fans The fans will be powered by the 12V AC adapter included with your kit. We will use it to power the fans by connecting it to the brown and blue wires from the PCB in the NC28 HQI hood. To wire the fans, we need to disconnect the large bundled power wire from the PCB. Most importantly we need to free the brown and blue wires from the PCB: Next, cut the end off of the included 12V AC adapter. Run the AC adapter wire through the vent slot nearest the moonlight AC Adapter Jack. 9

10 Now, route the AC Adapter wire through the rubber grommet as pictured below on the right. Next, separate the AC Adapter wires down the middle until they are approximately an inch long. Strip off approximately half an inch of the outer jacket from each wire. You should now have the AC Adapter wires and PCB brown and blue wires near each other so they can be connected together by wire nuts. Next, connect the brown and blue PCB wires to the AC adapter wires. Which wire to which is not important (the output is rectified). 10

11 Wiring the LED Strings to 5-Wire Bundle (Power Wire) To modify as little as possible in the NC28 HQI original hood, we will use the original power wire that is in the hood. It is a bundle of 5 wires: blue, brown, black, white, and green/yellow. We will attach jumper wires from our LED strings to the wires in the 5 wire bundle. On the other end of the 5 wire bundle we will attach V+ and V- from the drivers. First, attach jumper wires to the end of your LED strings. They should be approximately long, or long enough to reach the 5 wire power cable. 11

12 Next, route the wires through a slot in the heatsink area towards the 5 wire power cable. This is near the PCB. In this scenario, we are wiring the white LED string to two of the wires from the 5 wire power cable. Next, use grey wire nuts to attach the jumper wires from the LED string (white string in this case) to wires from the 5 wire power cable. Remember what colors you use, you will need to wire the driver to the corresponding color on the other end of the 5 wire bundle. In this example, we attached + to the white wire and to the black wire from the 5 wire bundle. 12

13 Repeat for the other LED string. In this case we use the brown and blue wires. Once again, remember which colors of the 5 wire bundle you connect the jumper wires to. Below is a table of how our example is wired. Of course, you can wire it however you would like as long as V+ from the driver and V- from the driver get to the LED string properly. In our example, we eventually cut off the green/yellow wire because it is unused and did not want it touching anything. 13

14 5-Wire Bundle Wire Color White Black Brown Blue Green/Yellow Designation V+ to White LED String V- to White LED String V- to Blue LED String V+ to Blue LED String Unused CUT OFF Wiring Drivers to the 5-Wire Bundle Now that the internal 5-wire bundle wiring is complete, we ll wire the opposite end to the drivers. First, we need to cut the end off of the 5-wire bundle and strip off the outer jacket and then strip off a bit from each of the internal wires. Note the green/yellow wire is missing because it was cut off as it is unused. 14

15 Next, use grey wire nuts to connect the wires from the 5-wire bundle to your driver. V+ and V- from the driver should go to the wires corresponding with our table from above. Here is the table again for reference: 5-Wire Bundle Wire Color White Black Brown Blue Green/Yelow Designation V+ to White LED String V- to White LED String V- to Blue LED String V+ to Blue LED String Unused CUT OFF In the photo below, V+ (red) from the white LED driver is attached to the white wire from the 5-wire bundle and V- (black) from the white LED driver is attached to the black wire from the 5-wire bundle. It works like this: V+ (red) to 5-wire white to Red LED+; V- (black) to 5-wire black to black LED-. Repeat for the other driver and the brown and blue wires from the 5-wire bundle. 15

16 Wiring the Driver to AC Power BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH 120VAC. Ensure nothing is plugged in before proceeding! The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120VAC. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step. 16

17 Using a Meanwell Dimmable Driver (Skip if using a non-dimmable driver) Wiring the Driver Dimmer Wires There are 4 output wires on a dimmable driver as in the above photo. The dimming wires, DIM + (blue), and DIM (white), simply hook up to the respective ports on your controller or dimmer. Dimmable drivers must have the dimmer wires hooked up to a controller or dimmer or the LEDs will not light up. No dimming signal = 0% brightness. If you do not have a dimming circuit or controller, you can test by applying a voltage to the Dimmer + and Dimmer wires on the driver. This voltage can range from 1-10V. Do NOT exceed 10V or you risk damaging the dimming circuitry. A 1V reference voltage will light the LEDs to 10% brightness, whereas a 10V reference voltage will light the LEDs to 100% brightness. You likely have something around your house that can supply a reference voltage. A wall wart, 9V battery, or even a AA battery can be used for testing. Be sure to test the actual output voltage of your wall wart with a multimeter before use unregulated wall warts will output much greater than the output voltage on the label when used with small loads. Adjusting Driver Current Do this before applying power To adjust the driver output current, open the driver by removing the 4 screws and very gently rotate SVR2 counter-clockwise until it stops. Counter-clockwise rotation lowers output current and clockwise rotation raises output current. We have just set current to the minimum. Adjust maximum driver current such that it does not exceed the specification of your LEDs! 17

18 Adjusting Driver Current with a Multimeter To adjust the driver output to a specific value, you must first wire a multimeter into your LED string and second, you must ensure the DIM+ and DIM- wires are connected to a dimmer. The dimmer should be set to full brightness. The multimeter should be wired into your LED string exactly the same as an LED, + to -, in fact, if you just pretend it is an LED, you will have no problem measuring current. If you wire the multimeter in backwards, it will still work, but your measurements will be negative instead of positive. To set your multimeter up for measuring current, move the RED probe plug to the 10A socket and rotate the knob to the 10A position. Multimeters can differ in operation. Please consult your multimeter manual for model specific operating instructions. As in the photo below on the right, have a friend firmly hold the probes in a gap in the LED string. We had to remove a wire in an existing setup for this example. If either probe loses contact with a solder pad on either LED, do NOT re-touch it to the LED until power has been removed from the driver for a few minutes, and then start over from the beginning. 18

19 The following should be complete before applying power to the driver: SVR2 has been gently rotated counter-clockwise until it stops (set to minimum current) DIM+ and DIM- wires on driver are connected to a dimmer Dimmer is set to 100% brightness (10VDC MAX) Multimeter is turned on and set up to measure current Multimeter is wired into LED string as if it were an LED Once all of the above have been completed, power the driver and rotate SVR2 clockwise until the readout on the multimeter displays the desired output current for 100% brightness. In the below photos, the current begins at.25a, or 250mA. SVR2 was rotated clockwise until the desired maximum current,.75a, or 750mA. In our example, we wired our probes backwards, thus the sign. When measuring current, you can ignore the sign because we are only interested in the absolute amount of current flowing through the LED string. Switching the multimeter leads around would have would have flipped the sign around to +(no sign) in this example. Now that you have set the current on your driver by rotating SVR2, un-plug the driver, replace the cover, and re-wire your LED string. 19

20 Using a Rapid LED Nano Dimmable Driver with 700mA Max. Current (Skip if not using this driver) The Rapid LED Dimmable Driver with 700mA Maximum current is a 0-10V analog driver. Simply hook up the wires from your 0-10V lighting controller to the corresponding ports on the driver. They attach with screw terminals. Once again, ensure all wiring is complete before applying any power! Finish Re-attach the plastic cover to your hood and enjoy! 20