DAT2. Motto Colour is just the beginning. Affinage Professional Infiniti. Infiniti colour key. CHAPTER ONE Introduction. Diamond Activation Technology

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1 TECHNICAL MANUAL

2 CONTENTS CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTION 3 DAT2 CHAPTER TWO STRUCTURE 6 hair structure, hair texture, porosity CHAPTER THREE COLOUR CLASSIFICATIONS 7 colour families CHAPTER FOUR COLOUR FUNDAMENTALS 9 colour wheel, chart & numbering system, consultation, colour star & underlying pigment CHAPTER FIVE COLOUR CO-ORDINATES 12 mixing & processing, designer pastel mixing, pre-pigment options CHAPTER SIX INFINITI SATIN TONE ON TONE AMMONIA FREE COLOUR 14 mixing & processing, covering grey, application, toning,.000 clear,.002 silver &.007 natural brown CHAPTER SEVEN PERMANENT COLOUR 16 mixing & processing, developer selection, grey coverage, application, colour balancing, toning CHAPTER EIGHT BLONDING 20 high lift arctic blondes, application, covering grey, colour removal CHAPTER NINE INTENSIVES & INTENSE REDS 22 intensives & dual use intense reds, intense reds, mixing & processing CHAPTER TEN COLOUR REMOVAL 25 infiniti erase it, minimal removal, maximum removal, detector phase CHAPTER ELEVEN COLOUR CORRECTION 27 colour correction with powder lighteners, going darker, correction with coffee & velvets CHAPTER TWELVE LIGHTENING 29 infiniti lite n up, infiniti lite white/blue, arctic blonding on scalp creme CHAPTER THIRTEEN WAVING SOLUTIONS 31 kinky cynks, allure permanent waving system

3 CHAPTER ONE Introduction Mission Statement Profitable growth through superior customer service, innovation, quality, education and commitment to the professional hairdressing industry. Motto Colour is just the beginning. DAT2 Diamond Activation Technology Diamonds are forever a symbol of strength and shine. The Affinage Professional Infiniti permanent colours will provide the perfect illumination and the latest in colouring technology with DAT2. Affinage Professional Infiniti combines Diamond Blend with unique Activation Technology. These two elements work in synergy to maximise colour deposit and shine. All pigments in Affinage Professional Infiniti permanent are of the highest quality providing uniform distribution of tone. ph stabilisers ensure the hair's condition is maintained throughout the colouring process. Infiniti permanent colours work to simultaneously lighten and deposit, allowing reduced processing times and 100% grey coverage. Built in lift action allows the use of lower volumes of developer. Infiniti Satin tone on tone provides an ammonia free option that is high in protein for the perfect satin finish which assists in repairing hair whilst colouring. Affinage Professional Infiniti Affinage Professional continues its love affair with colour, creating a superior range of permanent and AMMONIA FREE tone on tone colours. Affinage Professional has developed a colour palette full of love, enabling perfect colouring results, increased shine and longevity of colour. Infiniti colour key Permanent Intensives Satin Tone on Tone Toner Intense Red Arctic Blonde Mix-ins (Satin only) Page 3

4 CHAPTER ONE Introduction permanent hair colour Advanced technology formulation Radiant shine and longevity of colour Optimum Grey Coverage Unique Diamond Activation Increased colour deposit with high quality pigments minutes processing time Low ammonia content Low ph level Pleasant fragrance Crème/Gel consistency, greater adhesion to the hair Superior lightening Arctic Blondes Dedicated toning range Colour chart according to numbering system, combining all colour ranges Colours developed specifically for ongoing market trends Simplified and advanced technical training SATIN AMMONIA FREE Treatment like qualities % grey coverage Radiant shine, longevity of colour DAT2 ensures hair condition and colour integrity are maintained minutes processing time Increased colour deposit with high quality pigments Assists in rebuilding and repairing whilst colouring Crème/gel consistency, greater adhesion to the hair Pleasant fragrance Colours developed specifically for ongoing market trends Colour replenishing made easy Colour chart according to numbering system, combining all colour ranges Simplified and advanced technical training Skin Sensitivity At Affinage Professional we recommend a skin sensitivity test be completed 48 hours prior to a colour service. 1. Mix 2g of colour with the appropriate Infiniti developer according to colour family 2. Apply the colour to dry skin on the inside of the elbow or behind the ear 3. Leave the colour uncovered for 45 minutes 4. Rinse and pat dry 5. Review the skin in 48 hours and take note of any reaction during this period 6. Should any adverse reaction occur during this period we recommend the client seeks immediate medical advice Page 4

5 Diamond Blend UV filter offers ongoing protection from colour fade Green Tea provides antioxidant defence Silk Amino Acids and Hydrolysed Silk, hydrate, strengthen and repair Rice and Milk Proteins assist with repair Cashmere Proteins to strengthen for colouring longevity Pearl extract adds shine for an illuminating and radiant result Activation Technology Unique simultaneous lift and deposit Bees wax hydrates and softens Lanoline and Vegetable extracts nourish for restored softness Keratin Protein (Infiniti Satin tone on tone) strengthens and repairs Rice & milk proteins repair Cashmere protein strengthens Pearl extract adds shine Silk amino acids and hydrolysed silk hydrate & strengthen Natural moisturisers soften Bees wax, UV filter, and green tea protect Page 5

6 CHAPTER TWO Structure Hair Structure Hair above the skin consists almost entirely of Keratin. The cuticle of healthy hair consists of approximately 10 cuticle layers. The condition of the cuticle is essential for healthy hair. The cortex is formed from fibres made of natural elements such as carbon, oxygen, sulphur, hydrogen and nitrogen. A porous hair structure will leave the cortex exposed and vulnerable to damage and dehydration. The medulla is not always present. Cuticle Cortex Medulla Outer Layer Inner layer 60% of the hair structure where most chemical change occurs Not always present Hair Texture Examining hair texture is a crucial part of the professional colour consultation. Coarse Differences in hair texture may cause unexpected colour results if not taken into consideration. Porosity Fine Medium Fine hair often lacks volume, can be easier to lighten and achieve grey coverage, colour result can appear darker. Medium hair has good elasticity, lightens well and results in good grey coverage, colour results are usually true to depth. Coarse hair has reduced elasticity and is very strong but can be challenging to cover grey and lighten from dark levels, colour result can appear lighter. Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. It is not uncommon for a head of hair to have varying degrees of porosity throughout the head. Hair that is highly porous or sensitised releases colour and moisture more quickly. Hair that is resistant is more difficult to penetrate and often requires a longer processing time. Porosity is caused by mechanical, environmental, and chemical factors. Resistant Normal Sensitised Page 6 Tightly compacted cuticle Cuticle is gently closed Cuticle is open, damaged and/or missing

7 CHAPTER THREE Colour Classification Colour Families Temporary Colour Large non-oxidative colour molecules Lasts 1-2 washes with the exception of pre-lightened and porous hair Not mixed with a developer Lodges between cuticle scales and coats the hair E.g White Ice Blonde Bombshell Non-oxidative Colour molecules Semi Permanent Colour Non-oxidative Colour molecules Lasts 6 10 shampoos Not mixed with a developer Non-oxidative colour molecules anchor to the cuticle E.g Colour Co-Ordinates Demi Permanent Demi Permanent colour - Infiniti Satin Tone on Tone Combines non-oxidative colour molecules and oxidised colour molecules Requires developer to oxidise pigments Lasts up to 25 washes Gentle conditioning colour 70% - 100% grey coverage Deposits colour under the cuticle Non oxidative colour molecules Oxidised colour molecules Small unoxidised colour pigments Permanent Colour Large oxidised colour pigments Able to lighten or darken natural hair Requires developer to oxidise colour molecules Covers up to 100% grey hair Deposits colour in the cortex Permanent Colour - Infiniti Page 7

8 CHAPTER THREE Colour Classification Colour Families Powder Lighteners Lightens both natural and artificial colour Requires developer Lite Blue/White or Lite N Up and Arctic Blonding Crème High Lift Blondes Lighten natural hair colour Deposits tone to neutralise or enhance underlying pigment Requires developer to oxidise colour molecules Arctic Blonde Page 8

9 CHAPTER FOUR Colour Fundamentals Colour Wheel Red WARM Copper ir Champagne Lavender 12.2 Violet ir.2i i i Gold i.1i Ice Blue COOL Sand 9.13 Key.1 = Blue.5 = Mahogany Green.2 = Pearl Violet.6 = Red.3 = Gold.7 = Matt Ash.4 = Copper = Infiniti Intensives = Infiniti Intense Red Page 9

10 Chart & Numbering System Infiniti numbering system follows the International Colour Code (I.C.C) for easy identification. The first number represents the depth of colour - how light or dark the colour is. The first number after the decimal point represents the primary tone, which is then supported by the secondary tone/reflect (second number after the point) and tertiary tone (third number after the point) = Depth 0 = Primary Tone 3 = Secondary Tone 6 = Tertiary Tone Tone Natural Ash Pearl Violet Gold Copper Mahogany Red Matt Ash Consultation Step by step guide for colour selection, application and timing of your Infiniti colour. 7 Step Colouring Guide 1. Determine natural depth - existing colour and underlying pigment. 2. Establish percentage of grey. 3. Assess hair quality, texture and porosity, choice of product. 4. Decide on target colour, depth and tone. 5. Determine developer required. 6. Decide on application method. 7. Evaluate required processing time. Existing Target Method Page 10

11 Colour Star & Underlying Pigment Primary - Red Red.6 Secondary - Orange Copper.4 Tertiary Mahogany.5 Warm Secondary - Violet Pearl Violet.2.0 Cool Primary - Yellow Gold.3 Primary - Blue Ash.1 Secondary - Green Matt Ash.7 Natural Depth Underlying Pigment Natural Depth Underlying Pigment 10.0 Extra Light Blonde Palest Yellow 5.0 Light Brown Orange/Red 9.0 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow 4.0 Medium Brown Red/Orange 8.0 Light Blonde Yellow 3.0 Dark Brown Red 7.0 Medium Blonde Orange/ Yellow 2.0 Very Dark Brown Red 6.0 Dark Blonde Orange 1.0 Black Red Page 11

12 CHAPTER FIVE Colour Co-Ordinates Colour Co-Ordinates Repair, nourish, and colour with an ammonia free semi permanent. A gel formula that contains Diamond Blend to create quick, easy, low commitment colour with incredible shine. Ideal for Gloss seal after colour, especially colour correction Refresh or maintain faded colour Tone unwanted brassiness Clear or coloured shine treatment Process Effect Expert tips Pre-lighten the hair to level 9-10 (pale/palest yellow), and consider toning the hair prior to use if the target has a cool tone. 3-5 minutes Soft effect that will last 1-2 washes 5-15 minutes Fashion effect that will last 2-8 washes minutes Strong effect and maximum longevity Removal and Post Colour Method 1. Shampoo hair with Essential Oils Mane Tame shampoo and towel dry. 2. Apply Essential Oils Guardian Angel to the skin around hairline. 3. Apply your personalised Colour Co-Ordinates mix. Removal and Post colour Emulsify colour and rinse thoroughly. Lock colour in with Essential Oils Liquid Luxury. Notes Page 12

13 Recipes Recipes to try over pre-lightened and toned hair: Pastel Pink 60g Designer Pastel + 1g Pretty Pink Granny Gray 60g Classic Chrome + 1g Sapphire Blue Betty Blue 30g Pearly Steel + 30g Sapphire Blue Pantone Marsala 30g Colour Designer Pastel + 10g Colour Choc Glow + 1g Colour Pretty Pink CHOCOLATES Choc Frost Choc Glow Choc Melt Pretty Pink True Red Flaming Orange Perfect Purple Sapphire Blue PASTELS BRIGHTS Designer Pastel High Shine Vanilla Blonde Pearly Steel Classic Chrome Notes Page 13

14 CHAPTER SIX Tone on Tone Infiniti Satin Tone on Tone Ammonia-free demi colour Contains:- DAT2 for shine and hydration Keratin for strength Vitamins and minerals for increased colour deposit Mixing & Processing Satin tone on tone ammonia-free demi mixing ratio 1 : 2 with 2.8% Infiniti Activating Crème Standard Colouring Coarse Hair/Grey Coverage Porous/Damaged Hair after chemical treatment or colour balancing Toning 20 minutes Up to 30 minutes Up to 15 minutes Visual up to 10 minutes Mix 1:2 ratio + E.g 30g Infiniti Satin tone on tone + 60g 2.8% Infiniti Satin Activating Crème Covering Grey Fashion Colours Blends up to 70% grey Natural Colours Blends up to 100% grey Add 25% natural colour to achieve 100% blended grey coverage Page 14

15 Always apply Essential Oils Guardian Angel to the skin around the hairline prior to chemical services. Virgin Head 1. Apply to pre-shampooed, towel dried hair from roots to ends. 2. Process for full development time. Regrowth 1. Apply to root area. 2. Process for full development time. *Note: for colour balancing, spray mid-lengths and ends with Black Ice Thermal Shield porosity filler and massage through for the last 5-10 minutes. Toning Infiniti Satin Tone on Tone Application Infiniti Satin contains DAT2 and its treatment-like qualities make it an ideal choice for toning pre-lightened hair using the depth 9 and Clear Satin tone on tone.000 Clear % of.000 Clear Mixing ratio Result 25% 3 parts colour + 1 part.000 Clear 1 level lighter 50% 2 parts colour + 2 part.000 Clear 2 levels lighter 75% 1 part colour + 3 part.000 Clear Pastel toning Does not contain pigment Can be used as a gloss treatment Dilute any Satin tone on tone colour by up to 2 levels.002 Silver &.007 Natural Brown These Mix-ins may be added to an Infiniti Satin tone on tone colour to neutralise or enhance tone..002 Silver - Maximum 10% added 20g g g % Infiniti Activating Crème.007 Natural Brown - Up to 50% added 20g g g 2.8% Infiniti + + Activating Crème Page 15

16 CHAPTER SEVEN Permanent colour Infiniti Mixing & Processing Infiniti Colour 1-10 Series 1-10 Series Mix Colour & Developer Hair Type Normal Healthy Hair Porous, Damaged Hair No Heat 30 minutes Up to 20 minutes Gentle Heat minutes Up to 10 minutes Infiniti Colour Infiniti Colour Blonde Toning (depth 9 & 10) 12 Series Arctic Blondes Blonde Toning Series Mix Colour & Developer (3%) + 1 Conditioner (3% Developer) Hair Type All All No Heat Visual up to 10 minutes Visual up to 10 minutes Gentle Heat Not Recommended Not Recommended 12 Series Arctic Blonde Extra Lightening Depths 4 & Above Mix Colour & Developer Hair Type Normal Healthy Hair Normal Healthy Hair No Heat minutes minutes Gentle Heat minutes minutes Developer Selection 3% INFINITI DEVELOPER 6% INFINITI DEVELOPER 9% INFINITI DEVELOPER 12% INFINITI DEVELOPER Depth on depth colouring Darkening (reduced tone) Optimum grey coverage Toning 1-2 Levels of lift Increased tonal intensity Grey coverage 2-3 Levels of lift Arctic Blondes 3-4 levels of lift 3-4 Levels of lift Arctic Blondes 4-5 levels of lift Expert tips Lift and deposit achieved will depend largely on the hair's texture and porosity. Use scales to gain the most accurate result. Generally colour will not lighten colour. Page 16

17 Grey Coverage INFINITI GREY COVERAGE Infiniti fashion colour depths % multi-tonal coverage Infiniti Natural depths % blended coverage Infiniti Extra Natural depths % block coverage Infiniti Intensives Not recommended vibrant result Infiniti Intense Red Not recommended vibrant result Infiniti Toner Not recommended pastel result % of Grey Colour Selection 0% - 70% Select and apply target colour 70% - 100% 3 parts target colour and 1 part Natural or Extra Natural colour For increased coverage Expert tips Start application of colour in areas with the most grey first. Extend processing time by up to 10 minutes without heat. Resistant mix 1:1 (may reduce tone). Pre-pigment 1:1 (1 part colour, 1 level lighter + 1 part water). 6% Infiniti Developer for extremely resistant hair. Notes... Page 17

18 Infiniti Application Always apply Essential Oils Guardian Angel to the skin around the hairline prior to chemical services. Virgin Head - Same depth or lighten 1 level 1. Step 1: Apply to mid-lengths and ends starting at the darkest areas. Leave 2cm of hair at the root area. 2. Process for half the development time. 3. Step 2: Apply fresh colour to the root area and process for full development time. Virgin Head - Lightening 2 or more levels 1. Step 1: Apply to mid-lengths and ends starting at the darkest areas. Leave 2cm of hair at the root area. 2. Process for half the development time. 3. Step 2: Apply fresh colour with a lower developer strength to the root area and process for full development time. Darkening 1. Apply from roots to ends. 2. Process for full development time. Regrowth 1. Apply to root area. 2. Process for full development time. Colour Balancing Loss of shine 1. Spray Black Ice Thermal Shield porosity equaliser through mid-lengths and ends. 2. Apply Infiniti Satin tone on tone.000 Clear + Infiniti Activating Crème (1:2) 3. Process for 5-10 minutes. Loss of tone 1. Process regrowth colour for half the development time. 2. Spray Black Ice Thermal Shield porosity equaliser through mid-lengths and ends. 3. Massage and comb through *regrowth colour to ends. 4. Process for up to 10 minutes. * Note: Only when colour on regrowth is target colour for ends. Loss of tone and depth 1. Spray Black Ice Thermal Shield porosity equaliser through mid-lengths and ends. 2. Apply corresponding Infiniti Satin tone on tone colour. 3. Process visually for up to 20 minutes. Page 18

19 Toning Impart shine, condition, and tone on pre-lightened hair. Infiniti Toner Suitability Mix Colour & Infiniti Developer Processing Time Champagne Sand Ice Lavender Depths 9 & 10 Pre-lightened to levels 9 & 10 Softly counteracts yellow using beige ash tone to create a clean champagne Pre-lightened to levels 9 & 10 Soft, natural, warm tone with added depth Pre-lightened to levels 9 & 10 Counteracts unwanted yellow/ orange tones. Icy effects Pre-lightened to levels 9 & 10 Counteracts unwanted yellow tones Lilac effect Pre-lightened to levels 9 & 10 Counteracts unwanted yellow, (.2) yellow/orange & orange tones (.01,.1,.11,.117) and beige (.32) (3%) Visual up to 10 minutes (3%) Visual up to 10 minutes (3%) Visual up to 10 minutes (3%) Visual up to 10 minutes (3%) + 1 Conditioner Visual up to 10 minutes Extra Violet Purple.221 For increased colour intensity and longevity pre-pigment with the extra violet purple colour 1 level lighter. E.g Target Pre-pigment 15g g water (dry in) 2. Apply % Infiniti Developer Gothic.117 Series Gothic.117, an innovative range of permanent ash matt colours designed for cool tones. Mixing ratio 1 part Gothic part 3% (only) Infiniti Developer. Expert tips Use Gothic.117 colour to : Add a matt ash tone or blend grey hair Mix in to natural colour to create cool browns Tone unwanted warmth on pre-lightened hair Neutralise unwanted warmth Page 19

20 CHAPTER EIGHT Blonding High Lift Arctic Blondes Blonding colours with in-built tone, designed to lighten and neutralise. For use on natural depths 6 to 8 Mix: 20g (1 part) Arctic Blonde + 40g (2 parts) 9% or 12% Infiniti Developer = up to 4 levels of lift (dependant on hair type) + + Process: to With Heat or Without Heat For use on natural depths 4 to 5 Mix: 20g (1 part) Arctic Blonde + 60g (3 parts) 9% or 12% Infiniti Developer = up to 5 levels of lift (dependant on hair type) + + Process: to With Heat or Without Heat Infiniti Arctic Blonde Colour Reflect Ideal use Infiniti Developer Strength 12.0 Natural Depth 4 & Above 9%, 12%, 12.0s (25% - 50%) Lightener, no reflect Added to any Infiniti colour 3%, 6%, 9%, 12% 12.1 Ash Natural Depth % Extra Ash Natural Depth % 12.2 Pearl Violet Natural Depth 6-7 9%, 12% Beige Natural Depth 7 9%, 12% Result Indication Warm golden honey tones Increases lift by 1-2 levels Warm to natural light blondes Warm to natural light blondes Warm to natural light blondes Soft warm beige tones 1. Ensure sufficient product is applied in fine sections. Expert tips 2. Lift and deposit achieved will depend largely on the hair's texture and porosity s: 25% added provides 1 extra level of lift 50% added provides 2 extra levels of lift Page 20

21 Arctic Blonde Application Always apply Essential Oils Guardian Angel to the skin around the hairline prior to chemical services. Virgin Head 1. Step 1: Apply to mid-lengths and ends starting at the darkest areas Leave 2cm of hair at the root area 2. Process for half the development time 3. Step 2: Apply fresh colour to root area and process for full development time (35-55 minutes) *Note: A steamer may be used for gentle heat (20-30 minutes) 2 1 Regrowth 1. Apply to root area only 2. Process for minutes *Note: A steamer may be used for gentle heat (20-30 minutes) 1 Covering Grey with Arctic Blondes Example: Natural depth 6 40% grey % of GREY MIXING RATIO Up to 30% Use desired Arctic Blonde 30-50% ½ ½ desired Arctic Blonde % Use Infiniti permanent 15g g g 12% Infiniti Developer + + Colour Removal At the completion of processing emulsify the colour paying particular attention to the hairline. Emulsify before adding water to eliminate the possibility of staining. Rinse until the water runs clear. Lightly shampoo and condition with Affinage Professional. To lock in colour and increase shine apply Essential Oils Liquid Luxury Page 21

22 CHAPTER NINE Intensives & Intense Reds Infiniti Intensives & Dual Use Intense Reds Infiniti Intensives can be mixed with Infiniti permanent colour for customised creative colouring. 5 pure pigments 2 dual use Infiniti Intense Reds *Note: The lighter the level the less Infiniti Intensives required..1 Ash.2 Pearl Violet.221 Extra Violet Purple.3 Gold.4 Copper.6 Red.7 Matt Ash Infiniti Intensive/Intense Red Colour Infiniti Permanent Usage Infiniti Satin Tone on Tone Usage.1 Ash 10-50% 10-50%.2 Pearl Violet 10-50% 10-50%.221 Extra Violet Pearl 10-50% 10-50%.3 Gold 10-50% 10-50%.4 Red - Copper Up to 25% (maximum) Up to 10% (maximum).6 Red - Red Up to 25% (maximum) Up to 10% (maximum).7 Matt Ash 10-50% 10-50% Example: Add 10% 50% to your desired Infiniti Permanent or Infiniti Satin Tone on Tone colour. Mix 1 part total colour parts Infiniti developer 20g g.221 Extra 33g Violet Purple Infiniti Developer = 10% mix Page 22

23 Infiniti Intense Reds Infiniti Intense Reds create intense bright fashion effects off scalp techniques, in one step. A vibrant collection of 5 Intense Reds colours designed for use on dark natural depths 6 and below. Built in lift in the colour negates the use for high developer strengths, ultimately maintaining hair condition. Mixing & Processing Times Example: Mix: 20g Intense Reds 20g Infiniti Developer (off scalp application) + Mix 1:1 Ratio + + to Process: Without Heat.4 Copper Magenta Levels of Lift % 3-4 9% 2-3 6% 1-2 3% Developer Choice With Heat *Note: The use of 12% Infiniti Developer will often result in a lighter, less reflective colour. Colour Balancing Colour balancing porous hair with Intense Reds: Mix 1 part Intense Red + 1 part water, process for 30 minutes. Red Copper.6 Red Red Violet Expert tips The best underlying pigment for creating a vibrant red result is depth 5 (red/orange), except for Magenta, which is best used on depths 6 and above. Please consider when selecting developer For lighter and brighter results on Asian or dark coloured hair mix 25-50% 12.0s with your Intense Red. May be used on coloured hair but will result in a subdued and possibly deeper result. Page 23

24 Notes Page 24

25 CHAPTER TEN Colour Removal Infiniti Erase It Infiniti Erase It has a thorough, yet gentle action, when removing unwanted tone and/or depth. Infiniti Erase It Method No Heat With Heat Mixing Ratio Minimal removal (tone only) (fine or damaged hair) Up to 20 minutes N/A 30ml phase ml phase ml Deep Cleansing Shampoo Maximum removal (depth & tone) Up to 30 minutes Up 20 minutes 60ml phase ml phase 2 * Note: Always wear gloves when mixing and applying Infiniti Erase It. Application of Erase It in foil is not recommended. Expert tips Visually check every 5 minutes until desired reduction is achieved. On coarse dark hair heat assistance is recommended and processing time may be extended up to 55 minutes. Up to 3 applications can be made in one day. Option 1: Minimal Removal (tone only) 1. Mix equal parts of Erase It Phase 1 and Phase 2 in a non metallic bowl. 2. Add same quantity of White Ice Deep Cleansing Shampoo. 3. Stir mixture for at least 1 minute. 4. Apply to dry hair and massage through. 5. Process (see table above). 6. Once ideal depth is reached, thoroughly rinse hair and shampoo with White Ice Deep Cleansing 3 times. 7. Follow Detector Phase (see page 26) Mix Phase Equal Parts Add same quantity of White Ice Deep Cleansing Shampoo Apply mixture to dry hair and process Option 2: Maximum Removal (depth and tone) Rinse thoroughly, shampoo with White Ice Deep Cleansing x 3. Follow with Detector Phase. 1. Mix equal parts of Erase It Phase 1 and Phase 2 in a non metallic bowl. 2. Stir the mixture for at least 1 minute. 3. Apply mixture on dry hair. 4. Process (see table above). 5. Once ideal depth is reached, thoroughly rinse hair and shampoo with White Ice Deep Cleansing 3 times. 7. Follow Detector Phase (See page 26). Page 25

26 CHAPTER TEN Colour Removal Detector Phase Once colour is removed follow the detector phase below. 1. Use 15-50ml of 3% Infiniti Developer and apply to erased area. 2. Leave for 5 minutes. If the hair darkens rinse immediately and reapply Infiniti Erase It. 3. If no change rinse thoroughly and follow Recolouration Phase. Recolouration Phase * Note: Apply Infiniti colour to dry hair, considering dry natural hair may require a different formula. 1. Select a colour 1-2 levels lighter than target colour. 2. Apply colour to mid-lengths and ends for 10 minutes and then apply to root area. 3. Processing time is visual, but is generally reduced by approximately 10 minutes. 4. The developer selection is determined by target colour. 5. If a lighter level is required a gentle powder lightener may be used. Developer When to use 6% Target is same depth or darker 9% Target is 1 to 2 levels lighter Target is a cool tone Arctic Blondes and Satin Tone on Tone are not recommended after the use of Erase It Notes Page 26

27 CHAPTER ELEVEN Colour Correction Colour Correction with Powder Lighteners Option 1: Minimal Removal (tone only) 1. Mix 1 part Lite powder lightener + 2 parts White Ice Deep Cleansing Shampoo. 2. Apply to darkest areas first. 3. Visually process. Option 2: Maximum Removal (depth and tone) 1. Mix 1 part Lite powder lightener + 2 parts chosen Infiniti Developer. 2. Apply to darkest areas first. 3. Visually process. Going Darker Recolouring hair that has been lightened requires a filler. Filler and target colours may be selected from Infiniti permanent or Infiniti Satin tone on tone depending upon the hair s texture and porosity. Infiniti Permanent Colour Filler Target Depth 10 Infiniti Satin Colour Filler 1 part part water 9 1 part part water 8 1 part part.000 Clear + 2 parts water 2 parts part.000 Clear + 3 parts water 1 part part water 7 1 part part water 1 part part water 6 2 parts part parts water 1 part part water 5 1 part part water 1 part part water 4 1 part part water 1 part part water 3 1 part part water 1 part part water 2 1 part part water 1 part part water 1 1 parts part water Method 1. Evenly spray Black Ice Thermal Sheild porosity equaliser. 2. Apply filler to lightened areas of the hair. 3. Blowdry filler into hair. 4. Mix and apply target colour. 5. Process for full development time. Expert tips Fragile blonde hair often benefits from the use of Infiniti Satin Ammonia Free tone on tone colour. Ensure sufficient product is applied for an even result. Page 27

28 CHAPTER ELEVEN Colour Correction Correction with Coffee & Velvets The Infiniti Coffee and Velvets collection are a unique range of permanent colours that contain triple tone making them highly suitable for low lighting, colouring back or darkening in one step. Create natural Coffee or cooler Velvet colours on pre-lightened hair or as a full colour. Coffee Collection Velvet Collection 4.036, 5.036, 6.036, , & & Mix: 1 part COFFEE/VELVET SHADE 1.5 parts 3% Infiniti Developer Process: + + or *Note: The recommended Infiniti developer is 3%. Without Heat With Heat Expert tips When recolouring more than 3 depths darker add 25-50% of the next darker depth. E.g Existing depth: 10 Target: parts part Notes Page 28

29 CHAPTER TWELEVE Lightening Infiniti Lite N Up Infiniti Lite N Up, gentle ammonia free and dust free powder lightener with built in soft tone. Suitable for off scalp applications. Contains Guar Bean composite to strengthen and repair. Highly suitable for strong, resistant/coarse and dark hair types. Preparation Analyse the scalp prior to regrowth applications to assess suitability. Do not apply product mix if the skin is cut or shows any signs of abrasion or irritation. Mix: Process: 1 part Infiniti Lite N Up 2 parts Infiniti Developer Up to 50 mins - average mins Check process frequently + + 3%, 6%, 9%, to Maximum Developer Selection Off scalp application: 3%, 6% or 9% Infiniti Lite White/Blue Infiniti Lite White/Blue is a high performance dust free powder lightener. Suitable for off scalp applications. Contains Hydrolysed Proteins for added moisture. Mix: Process: 1 part Lite White/Blue 2 parts Infiniti Developer Up to 50 mins - average mins Check process frequently or + 3%, 6% 9% + to Maximum Developer Selection Off scalp application: 3%, 6% or 9% Page 29

30 CHAPTER TWELEVE Lightening Arctic Blonding on Scalp Crème Arctic Blonding Creme, ideal for on scalp application and lightening techniques, including foils, highlights, balayage or freehand. Up to 7 levels of lift. Argan oil for the prevention of moisture loss Acai oil for antioxidant protection Built in tone Dedicated 4.5 and 7.5% developers Usage Mixing Ratio On Scalp Freehand Foiling 1 : 1 with 4.5% Arctic Developer Crème 1 : 1.5 with 4.5 or 7.5% Arctic Developer Crème 1 : 2 with 4.5 or 7.5% Arctic Developer Crème Development time is visual and up to 50 minutes Removal Once ideal level of lift is achieved: 1. Rinse thoroughly with luke warm water. 2. Gently shampoo and condition using an Affinage Professional product. 3. Tone if desired, using either Infiniti permanent or Satin tone on tone. Expert tips For gentle colour correction: Arctic Blonding Crème + 4.5% Infiniti Arctic Developer Crème (1:4) Page 30

31 CHAPTER THIRTEEN Waving Solutions Kinky Cynks Kinky Cynks combines the best of acid and alkaline technology to ensure superior condition and curl retention. Cysteamine strengthening technology ensures optimum results. A complete system with 3 variants to accommodate all hair types. Kinky Cynks Permanent Waving System has fixed processing times, there is no need to check the hair prior to rinsing. Method 1. Prepare the hair by gently cleansing with White Ice Treatment shampoo. 2. Water Wind hair to suit the desired waving effect, choose appropriate Kinky Cynks lotion to suit the hair type and process according to the table below. 3. Upon completion of the processing, rinse the hair for 5 10 minutes depending on length and thickness. 4. Blot majority of moisture from hair then apply the Kinky Cynks Neutraliser and process for 5 minutes - remove curlers. 5. Apply Kinky Cynks Neutraliser for a further 5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Follow with Affinage Professional White Ice Treatment Conditioner or Affinage Professional Essential Oils Moisture Max Conditioner. Variant Suitability Processing Time Kinky Cynks 1 Normal & Resistant Hair 15 minutes Kinky Cynks 2 Tinted & Chemically Treated Hair 10 minutes Kinky Cynks 3 Fine & Chemically Treated Hair 10 minutes Allure Permanent Waving System Quality all purpose waving system to suit all hair types. With the ability to maintain body, bounce, shine and elasticity Allure Permanent Wave is the perfect all-round permanent wave. Method 1. Prepare the hair by gently cleansing with White Ice Treatment Shampoo. 2. Water wind hair to suit desired waving effect. 3. Commencing at the nape area carefully apply Allure Permanent Wave lotion to each curler, process according to table below. 4. Check results at regular intervals to determine the final processing time. Do not exceed maximum recommended processing times. 5. Upon completion of processing, rinse the hair for 5 10 minutes depending on hair length and density. 6. Blot majority of moisture from hair, apply Allure Permanent Wave Neutraliser, process for 5 minutes. 7. Remove curlers, apply Neutraliser, leave for a further 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Follow with Affinage Professional White Ice Treatment Conditioner or Affinage Professional Essential Oils Moisture Max Conditioner. Hair Type Normal, Fine & Resistant Dry, Coloured & Porous Very Porous & Bleached Highlights Processing Time 20 minutes minutes 5-10 minutes Page 31

32 AFFINAGE PROFESSIONAL Telephone: Freecall: sales@affinage.com.au