PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS TECHNICAL MANUAL

Transcription

1 PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS TECHNICAL MANUAL

2 GOLD PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS GOLD PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS are nutritious hair colours enriched with pure organic oils of Argan and Meadowfoam seed, both with amazing antioxidant and moisturizing properties. The new formula delivers a dimension of delightfully soft and shiny hair, full of natural colour, radiance and lasting intensity with perfect grey coverage. Completely free of ammonia, PPD and Resorcinol, the colours fuel the hair with deep care after colouring, restructuring it from the inside and coating it with a protective layer from the outside. For superior colour-last and healthy-looking hair with vibrant shine.

3 PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS

4 INDEX SECTION 1 THE CONCEPT SECTION 2 COLOUR THEORY SECTION 3 BASIC INSTRUCTIONS

5 01 THE CONCEPT

6 INTRODUCTION GOLD PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS has a clear concept: Innovative colours with exclusively selected ingredients for maximum care and performance. Completely free of Ammonia, PPD, Resorcinol and Parabens the colours fuel the hair with deep care after colouring. This is our choice. RESORCINOL Resorcinol is a chemical compound and when used in hair dyes it can be skin and eye irritant and skin sensitizer. In higher dosis it can be very toxic and disrupt the function of the central nervous system and lead to respiratory problems. It has also been shown to disrupt the endocrine system, specifically thyroid function. PPD PPD is an allergen. This chemical substance, when used in hair dye it can cause dermatitis (itchy skin condition). In more severe cases, there may be marked reddening and swelling of the scalp and the face. The eyelids may completely close and the allergic reaction may become widespread. Severe allergy to PPD can result in contact urticaria (a superficial skin-coloured or pale skin swelling) and anaphylaxis (skin rash). AMMONIA Ammonia is a gas. It is colourless and has a very distinct odor. The use of ammonia in hair colours and hair salons put salon professionals and clients at serious risk of long term health damage. Ammonia exposure can cause a number of serious health problems. It will irritate and burn the eyes, throat, and nose when inhaled, and in higher concentrations it can induce severe coughing and choking fits. Prolonged exposure to ammonia in gas or liquid form can severely irritate the eyes and skin, and result in permanent scarring of the cornea and chemical burns on the skin and lungs. PARABENS Parabens, man-made preservative chemicals used in a wide variety of personal care products and foods to prevent the growth of microbes. These endocrine-disrupting chemicals can be absorbed through skin, blood and the digestive system. One of the main dangers cited by dermatologists and skin care specialists is the chemical s ability to mimic estrogen in the human body, causing an over-abundance of this hormone. Because hormones play such a vital role in the body by stimulating various biological processes, chemicals that mimic hormones can lead to a significant number of problems and pain from internal inflammation. When this happens, you may start gaining weight, retaining more fluids, and can even lead to cancer. Estrogen-related problems from parabens are especially detrimental to women who are pregnant or nursing, and are already facing wide hormonal fluctuations.

7 ARGAN OIL Argania spinosa, also known as Morocco Ironwood, is a shrubby, quite thorny evergreen tree, native to the calcareous, semi-desert soils of south-western Morocco (Sousse region) Argan oil has regenerative properties and regulates moisture. The concentration of fatty acids revitalizes the hair; Argan oil adds shine to hair while restoring natural softness and silky feel.

8 MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL Meadowfoam oil is derived from the seeds of commercial meadowfoam (limanthes alba), a herbaceous winter annual plant native to the pacific northwest region of the United States. Meadowfoam oil contains over 98% long-chain fatty acids,and also has higher quality triglyceride levels when compared to other vegetable oils. It has amazing moisturizing properties and imparts shine to the hair.

9 ALPHA-BISABOLOL Alpha-Bisabolol is the main principle of camomile, known to protect the skin against all kinds of daily stress. Thanks to its soothing properties improves the comfort during colour service.

10 BEESWAX Beeswax is secreted by worker honeybees for use in the construction of honeycombs. To extract the beeswax the honeycomb is melted with hot water and the crude wax skimmed off the surface. Beeswax has the ability to create a barrier on the skin imparting a wonderful emollient and softening effect on the scalp.

11 TECHNOLOGICAL EMULSIFIER The lamellar structure improves the dispersion of dyes, allows dyes to permate the cortex, trapping the colour deep inside the shaft, protects dyes from rapid oxidation. The result is a more intense and longlasting colour Lamellar structure formation

12 CONTRIBUTING MELANIN PIGMENTS COLOUR LEVEL 10 Palest Yellow 9 Pale Yellow 8 Yellow 7 Yellow-Orange 6 Orange 5 Orange-Red 4 Red 3 Red-Violet 2 Violet-Brown 1 Brown-Black

13 02 COLOUR THEORY

14 PRIMARY COLOURS (PURE) Colours are divided into primary and secondary. SECONDARY COLOURS (COMPOSED) There are three primary colours: Secondary colours are formed by mixing equal parts of two primary colours. BLUE RED YELLOW BLUE GREEN RED VIOLET RED ORANGE YELLOW BLUE YELLOW YELLOW mixed with BLUE, in equal parts, creates the secondary colour GREEN. RED mixed with BLUE, in equal parts, creates the secondary colour VIOLET. RED mixed with YELLOW, in equal parts, creates the secondary colour ORANGE. When primary colours are mixed in different parts the end result will be a secondary colour that is less or more intense.

15 DIRECTIONS 1. Mix Gold Hair Colour with Activator at a dilution ratio of 1:1.5 in a non-metallic bowl. For the special Highlift (11) series the dilution ratio is 1:2. 2. Do not mix the Highlift (11) series with other Gold Hair Colour shades. Free from Ammonia, PPD, Resorcinol

16 OPPOSITE COLOURS In the chromatic circle, opposite colours when mixed together will neutralize each other. Primary and secondary colours are classified as being either warm or cool. GREEN WARM COOL RED ORANGE YELLOW GREEN BLUE VIOLET BLUE YELLOW NEUTRAL 7 VIOLET RED ORANGE WARM COLOURS 3 4 Cool colours are able to neutralize warm colours and vice versa. As shown in the picture, tone values from warm to cool are numbered 1-7. The colour RED complements the colour GREEN. The colour BLUE complements the colour ORANGE. The colour YELLOW complements the colour VIOLET. 1 COOL COLOURS Example: A number 3 on the star has a warm tone (GOLD-YELLOW base). Every colour can neutralize it s colour complementary. This colour rule applies to cosmetic colour as well, for example when correcting and/or neutralizing unwanted tones.

17 THE NUMBERING SYSTEM How to read a shade: 1. The first number of the shade indicates its colour level. 2. The second indicates the primary tone value. 3. The third number indicates the secondary tone value. 4. When the second and third numbers are the same, the shade has an intense value. COLOUR LEVEL 1 Black 2 Darkest Brown 3 Dark Brown 4 Medium Brown 5 Light Brown 6 Dark Blonde 7 Medium Blonde TONE VALUES 1 Ash (blue base) 2 Violet (violet base) 3 Golden (yellow base) 4 Copper (orange base) 5 Mahogany (red-violet base) 6 Red (red base) 7 Matte (green base) 8 Light Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 10 Lightest Blonde

18 COLOUR VALUE FOR GOLD PREMIUM HAIR COLOUR SECONDARY TONE VALUE 0 1 (Ash) 2 (Violet) 3 (Gold) 4 (Copper) 5 (Mahogany) 6 (Red) 7 (Matte) PRIMARY TONE VALUE Ash Violet Gold Copper Mahogany Red Matte

19 THE COLOUR CHART NATURAL SERIES 1, 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 Use alone or intermix with fashion shades to create excellent grey coverage results. Up to 100% grey coverage with natural results. FASHION SERIES ASH Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Excellent to neutralize unwanted orange tone. Creates excellent ash cool results. BROWNS Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Perfect for creating soft beige tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Excellent to neutralize unwanted yellow/orange tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Provides an elegant natural brown. GOLDENS Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Creates excellent natural Gold tone Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Gives the richness of gold with a slightly cool touch.

20 THE COLOUR CHART BROWNS REDS/VIOLET Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. These give soft honeyed brunette tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Superior vibrant, passionate and uncompromising pure reds Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Rich and warm golden mahogany tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. A luxurious mahogany finish with red reflections Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Excellent for warm golden copper tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Rich and robust, expensive looking brunette tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. A true and intense cool violet result. 9.2 Excellent to neutralize unwanted green/yellow tones. Excellent natural cool results.

21 THE COLOUR CHART COPPERS Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. These give rich auburn copper tones Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Create vibrant and intense celtic coppers Mix with Natural series for 100% grey coverage. Rich bronze tones which evoke feelings of autumnal warmth. SUPER HIGH LIFTS/ TONERS levels of lift when mixed in equal parts with 000SSS Super High Lift Reinforcer (starting from a natural level 7 medium blonde). Use with 40V Gold Premium Peroxide. Follow mixing ratio 1:2 (30 g / 1 oz. of colour with 60 ml / 2 oz. of 40V Gold Premium Peroxide Timing 45 to 55 minutes. Great for highlighting, makes hair lighter and brighter giving clear pastel results. For toning mix with 10V Gold Premium Peroxide using a mixing ratio 1:2 and apply on damp hair. On porous or bleached hair, use a 1:3 mixing ratio, applied on damp hair. 000SSS Super High Lifting Reinforcer 000SSS can be mixed with all High Lift series shades to boost lightening ability by up to 1 level. Maximum mixing ratio 1:1 (30 g / 1 oz. Highlift shade + 30 g / 1 oz. 000SSS ml / 4 oz. 40V Gold Premium Peroxide.).

22 THE COLOUR CHART BOOSTERS Special shades, with very high tone intensity, suitable for varying, accentuating or neutralizing the result of a colour. 0.77/Blue: Used to balance orange and yellow tones. 0.66/Red: Red Booster can be mixed with all Gold Hair Premium shades, with the exception of the High Lift series, to give greater intensity to the red tone value. 0.22/Violet: used to enhance the violet tones of the Pure Violets, Mahogany and Reds series. 0.33/Yellow: used to accentuate the golden series. 0.11/Ash: the ideal grey tone for neutralizing red and orange tones and for boosting the grey tonal tendencies of the Ash, Natural Ash and Violet Ash series. 0.44/Orange: Used to enhance copper tones. 0.2/Pink: Used to be used creatively and to add pink reflection to blonde, red, violet and brown tones. CREATING FORMULAS WITH BOOSTERS Boosters are pure tones without assigned depths. This means that each booster behaves according to it s colours personality. We can divide the boosters into 3 groups: Dark, medium and light. Adjust the quantity og booster in the mixture according to the group in which the shade belongs. Ash Blue (00.11), Blue ( 0.77) and Violet (0.22) are dark. Pink (0.2) and Red (0.66) are medium. Orange ( 0.44) and Yellow ( 0.33) are light. Boosters should comprise of a maximum of 50% of your formula. or more information please see page 32.

23 GOLD HAIR PEROXIDE CREAMY STABILIZED HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Formula enriched with Elicos, it buffers the colour s alkalinity, making it milder on the scalp. It forms an emollient film of lipids on the skin to guarantee absolute comfort and protection. Because the mixture is thicker, the cream can be applied more easily, allowing greater accuracy during application. CHOICE OF ACTIVATOR / VOL. AND PROCESSING TIME PROCESSING TIME ACTIVATOR MIXING LIGHTENING min. (20min pastel tones) 10 VOL 1: 1,5 1 Tone/ PastelTones min. 20 VOL 1: 1,5 1-2 Tones min. 30 VOL 1: 1,5 2-3 Tones min. 40 VOL 1: Tones/ Highlights

24 MIXING Gold Premium Hair Colour must always be mixed using a mixing ratio of 1:1.5. Example: The content of a tube of cream 97g / 3.42oz with 150ml / oz of Peroxide. The mixture obtained is more than adequate to colour a whole head of medium long hair. SUPER HIGH LIFT / TONERS For the special Highlift (11) series the dilution ratio is 1:2. Example: The content of a tube of cream 97g / 3.42 oz with 200ml / 6.76 oz When using as a toner on very porous or bleached hair, use a dilution ratio 1:3. CHOOSING THE AMOUNT OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Observing the mixing ratio allows the product to perform optimally. One of the most important functions of Gold Peroxide is that it lightens natural hair. The degree of lightening depends on the volume of hydrogen peroxide used. HOW TO READ THE TABLE For example, when lifting from a natural 6 to a cosmetic 7 we see 10/20in the table. This means use 10V Gold Premium Peroxide at the roots and 20V Gold Premium Peroxide at the ends /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching 5 Pre-pigmentation /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching 6 Pre-pigmentation /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 Bleaching 7 Pre-pigmentation /20 10/20 20/30 30/40 8 Pre-pigmentation /20 10/20 20/30 9 Pre-pigmentation /20 10/20 10 Pre-pigmentation /20 The processing time is 35 minutes. For the Highlift series the treatment time is minutes. Treatment times are shorter if a source of heat is used. Use 25 minutes for Gold Premium Hair Colour shades and minutes for High Lift shades.

25 03 BASIC INSTRUCTIONS

26 CHOOSING A COLOUR THE DIAGNOSIS It is important for reaching the desired target shade. Follow steps 1 to 5 to correctly determine the colour technique to be used: 1. Determine client s desired colour result. 2. Determine client s natural hair colour level. 3. Determine client s porosity. 4. Determine client s grey hair percentage (%) 5. Determine if the desired colour objective requires lifting, tone on tone or darkening. There are two fundamental points: 1. Determine the % of white hair. For 15% to 30% grey: 1 part natural series + 2 parts desired colour. For 30% to 60% grey: 1 part natural series + 1 part desired colour. For 60% to 100% grey: 2 parts natural series + 1 part desired colour. 2. Choose the most suitable Gold Peroxide volume to achieve the desired lightening For a truly flawless result, it is important to evaluate: 1. The condition of the hair 2. Previous chemical treatments that may have altered the porosity of the hair. The Gold Premium Hair Colour Chart is the ideal instrument for diagnosis.

27 FIRST ALL-OVER COLOUR ON NATURAL HAIR The purpose of this technique is to give even colour results on natural hair, to avoid excessive lightening at the root area which is caused by the natural heat from the head. HOW TO PROCEED FOR 1 OR MORE LEVELS OF LIFT 1. Divide the head into four sections with partings that run from ear to ear, and from the center of the forehead to the nape, passing through the crown. 2. Apply the colour starting from the rear right section. 3. Apply the colour to the lengths and ends of all 4 sections. 4. Apply the colour to the root of all sections. Choose the volume of Gold Premium Peroxide according to the desired degree of lightening. 5. Proceed with the same method on the remaining sections. 6. Process for 35 minutes. 7. At the end of the treatment time, work the colour to form an emulsion, rinse well and shampoo. HOW TO PROCEED FOR TONE ON TONE OR DARKENING THE HAIR. 1. Apply the mixture (colour and 10 Vol. Gold Premium Peroxide) from the roots to the ends in a single application, with a processing time of 35 minutes.

28 PROCEDURES & TECHNIQUES COLOURING REGROWTH How to proceed: 1. Divide the head into four sections. 2. Apply the mixture to the regrowth, starting with the rear, right section. 3. Refreshing the colour If the fading on the lengths and ends is up to 1 level lighter than the target colour, work up an emulsion using the colour applied to the roots on the lengths and ends in the last 3-5 minutes of processing time. 4. If the fading is up to 2 levels, process up to 10 minutes. Use the above method. 5. If the fading is greater than 2 levels, mix the fresh colour and 10 Vol. Gold Premium Peroxide with a 1:2 mixing ratio. 6. Apply the mixture to the lengths and ends during the last 10 minutes of processing time. REFRESHING THE ENDS AFTER REGROWTH COVERAGE APPLICATION Natural series colours give excellent grey coverage due to the differences in their formula from that of the fashion series. For this reason, it is not recommended to refresh previously coloured hair with natural series shades, this can leed to colour build up and darkening the mid. shaft and ends. To refresh colour on the ends of the hair mix the sdesired fashion shade with Gold Premium Hair Colours peroxide 10Vol. In a 1:2 ratio ( 30g/60ml/ 10Vol.) For shine or up to 1 level of fade apply to damp ends 3-5 min. For up to 2 levels fade apply to dry ends, 5-10 min. For more than 2 levels apply to dry ends for min. COLOURING WHITE HAIR White hair is the result of a loss of melanin. This lack of natural pigment gives the hair a dull, flat appearance. Performing an excellent colour service on white hair does not merely mean covering white hair, but in succeeding in obtaining a natural, brilliant and glossy result. To achieve this result it is important to observe a number of rules: 1. Mix the chosen fashion series shade with the correspondence shade in the Natural series. For grey coverage (15%- 30%) 1 part natural + 2 parts fashion series colour. (30%-60%) 1 part natural + 1 part desired colour. (60%-100%) 2 parts natural + 1 part desired colour. 2. Choose the volumes of Gold Premium Peroxide indicated according to the desired degree of lightening. 3. Very carefully apply the colour with thin sections. 4. Leave to process 35 minutes. For seistant hair increase the processing time 5-10 minutes

29 PRE-PIGMENTATION What is it: It is a technical term that indicates a preliminary treatment that prepares resistant white hair to obtain an even cosmetic result. When it is necessary: In the presence of a high concentration of resistant white hair, usually present in the front. Pre-pigmentation achieves two important effects on the hair: 1. It etches the hair shaft (the product s alkalinity opens the cuticle) 2. It deposits colour pigments on particularly resistant white hair. The mixture: Pre-pigmentation is performed using colour (not diluted with Peroxide) one level lighter than the desired result. The Gold Premium Hair Colour shades best suited for pre-pigmentation are those with a warm tone (.3). How to proceed: 1. Once the area to be pre-pigmented has been identified, apply the product to the hair using the tip of the brush without touching the scalp. 2. Do not rinse. 3. This procedure must be performed at least 10 minutes before the application of the final colour.

30 RE-PIGMENTATION What is it: It is a technical treatment that makes it possible to reconstruct both cosmetic and natural colours. When it is necessary: Every time we need to make a colour darker by more than three levels.re-pigmentation is preventative colouring aimed at rebuilding colour in a stable and lasting manner, avoiding grey-green casts. The mixture: 1. It must always be performed with warm shades (golds, coppers and reds). 2. The level chosen will be one or two levels lighter than the target colour. 3. Mix with 10 Vol. Gold Premium Peroxide. 4. The Gold Premium Hair Colour: Gold Peroxide mixing ratio should be: 1:2 (1 part colour + 2 parts Gold Peroxide) for porous hair; 1:3 (1 part colour + 3 parts Gold Peroxide) for overly porous (bleached) hair; Apply the mixture carefully to the parts to be darkened. Processing time: minutes. Rinse well and dry the hair thoroughly. Prepare the new mixture using the target colour 5 light brown. Apply on the base, lengths and ends. How to proceed: Re-pigmentation is performed before the application of the target colour. To darken very lightened hair, without regrowth, proceed as follows: A) Diagnosis: Desired colour: golden violet light brown (5.32); Hair colour: golden very light blonde (9.3); in this case, there are 4 colour levels to be recovered. B) Identify the shade best suited to rebuilding the colour of the hair. As an example, the target colour has a level 5 light brown, the colour background to be rebuilt is orange. To perform re-pigmentation, the shade must be one or two levels lighter than the target colour and the tonal tendency must be Copper. The colour chosen will be 6.4 dark copper blonde, to be applied with a mixing ratio of 1:3 with 10 Vol. Gold Peroxide. Re-building the orange in the hair makes it possible to obtain a base colour similar to that of natural hair. This will make it possible to achieve the desired colour successfully. C) Application The re-pigmentation mixture: 30 ml / 1 oz. of the dark copper blonde (6.4). 90 ml / 3 oz. of 10 Vol. Gold Peroxide. Apply the mixture carefully to the parts to be darkened. Processing time: minutes. Rinse well and towel dry the hair thoroughly. Prepare the new mixture using the target colour 5 light brown. Apply on the base, lengths and ends.

31 NO AMMONIA BLEACHING POWDER Specifically made to optimize bleaching powder performance. Its soft, creamy texture makes the mixtures easy to apply on to the hair. Lightening up to 7 levels Innovative formula: Results are incredibly uniform Maximum adherence to the hair Perfect stability of mix throughout service time Versatile dilution from 1:1 to 1:3 highly cosmetic result Dust free formula DIRECTIONS We recommend a mixing ratio from 1:1 to 1:3. Apply the bleaching mixture on dry, unwashed hair. Check result regularly. When result is reached, rinse well and shampoo lightly to remove all traces of the bleaching powder. STREAKS BLEACHING TECHNIQUE FULL HEAD BLEACHING HIGHLIGHTS CAPS MIXING RATIO From 1:1 to 1:3 From 1:5 to 1:2 1:2 RECOMMENDED ACTIVATOR 10, 20, 30 or 40 vol. 20, 30 or 40 vol. 10, 20 or 30 vol. LEAVE-IN TIME Until you reach the bleach effect wanted; max 50 min.

32 REFRESHING THE ENDS AFTER REGROWTH COVERAGE APPLICATION. Natural series colours give excellent grey coverage due to the differences in their formula from that of the fashion series. For this reason, it is not recommended to refresh previously coloured hair with natural series shades, this can leed to colour build up and darkening the mid. shaft and ends. To refresh colour on the ends of the hair mix the sdesired fashion shade with Gold Premium Hair Colours peroxide 10Vol. In a 1:2 ratio ( 30g/60ml/ 10Vol.) For shine or up to 1 level of fade apply to damp ends 3-5 min. For up to 2 levels fade apply to dry ends, 5-10 min. For more than 2 levels apply to dry ends for min.

33 ADDITIONAL BENEFITS CUSTOMIZED SERVICE Thicker texture, to facilitate partial colour techniques FASTER WORKING TIMES 1. Faster to mix 2. Faster to spread, thanks to improved texture 3. Easier to rinse 4. With constant application time of 35 minutes

34 BOOSTERS TONE LEVEL 30g GROUP 1 Blue/Ash/Violet GROUP 2 Pink/Red GROUP 3 Yellow/Orange 10 1g 1g 3g 9 1g 3g 5g 8 1-2g 5g 5g 7 3g 8g 8g 6 4g / 8g * 10g 10g 5 5g / 10g 15g 15g 4 8g / 15g 20g 20g 3 10g / 15g 20g 20g 2 10g / 15g 20g 20g 1 10g / 15g 20g 20g NOTES These substitues are suggested minimums (added to 30g of color) to enhance corresponding shades in Gold Premium Hair Colours. Greater quantities can be used for a more intense result. Note that group 1 colour can become dominant and effect lightening results when mixed with lighter colour levels. * Indicates quantity for Violet.

35 PREMIUM HAIR COLOURS