EVA PROFESSIONAL COLOR MANUAL

Transcription

1 EVA PROFESSIONAL COLOR MANUAL TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Hair and color a. Hair: Hair fibre. The hair stalk b. The Oswald color star. Primary and secondary colors 2. Permanent colouring: DIVINA and EVYOXIN a. Divina b. Evyoxin c. How to interpret Divina hair color numbers 3. DIVINA hair color features and application techniques a. Divina High Tenacity b. Divina Generics c. Divina Super-highlights d. Divina Post-bleaching Tinges e. Divina Post Super-highlight Tinges f. Divina Fantasy Tinges g. Divina Proportions Chart Manual of Colour p 2

2 1. - Introduction: Hair and Color The hair shaft To understand hair coloring it is very important to know what parts of the hair are involved in that process. Each hair has three layers: the medulla in the centre, which is soft the cortex layer that surrounds the medulla and is the main part of the hair the cuticle, the hardest external surface that protects the stalk and is made of superimposed cells in fine scale-like layers Section of a hair The color of the hair is basically determined by the amount and distribution of melanin. Melanin is found as tiny granules in the hair cortex. The amount of melanin will determine the tone of the hair; blond hair, for example, will have less melanin than a darker hair. In healthy hair, the light reflected on the cuticle produces a soft highlight. This highlight will be determined by the transparency of the hair colour. To summarize, we refer to a dark and opaque pigmentation as tone, whereas we call a light, transparent pigmentation, highlight. The intensity of light or highlight can be classified based on the percentage of pigment, with lighter colours having more intense highlights. The tones can be classified by numbers from 1 to 10. The following chart shows the names of each tone and their amount of pigment and highlight. p3

3 TONE DIVINA COLOR PIGMENT % HIGHLIGHT % 1 BLACK VERY DARK BROWN DARK BROWN BROWN LIGHT BROWN DARK BLOND BLOND LIGHT BLOND VERY LIGHT BLOND PLATINUM BLOND The Oswald color star. Primary and secondary colors. The hair color can be reduced to a combination of the three primary colors: Red, Blue and Yellow. The secondary colors are Orange, Green and Violet. Red + Yellow = Orange Blue + Yellow = Green Red + Blue = Violet The color star tells us that the colors on opposite sides become neutralized. This is a very important concept in tinting, because the color of the hair and the color we are going to apply react, and not keeping in mind the color star could produce an undesirable color. Initial color + Hair color = Final result p 4

4 The following star is called Oswald Star. It is a detailed color star, specific for coloring and can be found in the DIVINA color charts. It is very useful to get rid of those undesirable highlights, to prevent them from appearing when applying a color, etc., in other words, to control the entire coloring process. Example 1 : To neutralize a greenish highlight we should use a color with red or mahogany highlight. Example 2: If we want a violet highlight applied on bleached hair, but do not eliminate beforehand the yellowish highlight, the result will be an undesirable (green, pink ) highlight, as both colours become neutralized. p 5

5 Basic features Permanent hair color Color Features Super-highlight color The basic features of the colors are: Simultaneous bleaching action. Total grey hair coverage. Maximum fixing of the colorant results. Wide range of chromatic possibilities. Harmless to health. Precise and convenient use throughout all application phases. Super-highlight color: These products basically work like oxidation colors, with the following differences: They contain a higher proportion of ammonia. They contain a smaller proportion of coloring compounds. They should be mixed with 30 or 40 vol oxidizer. In the case of super-highlights, there are usually two targets: The lightening level The shade s tinge quality Tone over tone hair color (color bath) This is a light coloring without ammonia. Unlike oxidation colors, it contains colorants that will be added to the hair s natural pigments without changing them. The color will lasts for approximately 6 to 12 washes depending on the hair type, application type and exposure time. This product does not to cover grey hair as well as permanent colors do. Oxidizing Cream This is an essential part of permanent and semi-permanent coloring. Upon being mixed with the color it activates the colorants. Also, since it contains hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) it oxidizes melanin reducing the hair s amount of pigment. p 6

6 Remarks before changing color There are a number of issues that could affect the coloring process, and should be taken into account before applying the color. The scalp o State of health o Sensitivity o Degree of dirtiness o Hair density The hair: o Virgin hair o Thickness o Texture, porosity o Determining the base color (highlight tone and % of grey hair) o Tone the client wants The cosmetics o Properties o Indications p 7

7 3.- Permanent Coloring: DIVINA and EVYOXIN DIVINA The Divina line is made up of 6 colouring groups, each one having a specific function depending on the precise tinting characteristics. Grey hair problems Tone levelling and lightening Special lightening Fantasy and tinge DIVINA HT - High tenacity DIVINA E - Generics DIVINA HL - Super-highlights DIVINA M - Tinges Each one of these is a distinctive group, both in terms of how they are prepared and their tinting technique development properties. Manual of Colour p 8

8 EVYOXIN Evyoxin is the oxidizing cream of Eva Professional. This is a cream stabilizer for oxidation colorants. Highly stable, its volume concentration remains unchanged over time. It is essential for the oxidation of colorants, fixing them on the hair's cuticle. It contains the softeners necessary for a quality finish. 10 Volume Ideal for tingeing, pre-pigmentations and to correct highlights. 20 Volume The perfect balance when levelling the colour between grey hair and the natural color. 30 Volume The perfect lightener for hair with no grey. Intense highlight colors. 40 Volume Intense lightening. Essential oxidizer for use with super-highlight. Color enhancer for direct streaking. Evyoxin-Soft Designed to use with Divina.Soft semi-permanent hair color. Manual of Colour p 9

9 Evyoxin developing cream. RECOMMENDATIONS: For optimal results and good color development it is essential to measure the developer cream. We consequently recommend using a measuring glass for that purpose. Selecting the correct developer volumes is also very important, as this will determine the final color. Very often there is no need to work with very high volumes. Keep in mind that color develops with just 10V. Evyoxin-Divina instructions for use and proportions, which will depend on the type of color and technique used, are given below. p 10

10 How to interpret Divina hair color numbers The chart below shows the Divina coloring tones and main highlights. The section goes on to explain what is the meaning of each digit with a clear example. List of Tones Main Highlight 1 Black.1 Ash grey 2.10 Bluish-black.2 Iridescent 3 Dark brown.3 Gold 4 Brown.4 Copper 5 Light brown.5 Mahogany 6 Dark blond.6 Reddish 7 Blond 8 Light blond 9 Very light blond 10 Platinum blond Tone The first digit indicates the color s tone. The higher the digit the lighter the tone will be. For example, Blond: 7.xx Blond Main highlight 70% The second digit indicates the main highlight. x.6x Reddish Highlight Secondary highlight 30% The third digit refers to the secondary highlight. x.x4 Copper Highlight 7.64 COPPER REDDISH BLOND p 11

11 4.- DIVINA hair color features and application techniques HIGH TENACITY Coloring range where the main characteristic is a higher intensity, with stronger reaction and higher capacity to penetrate a difficult cuticular structure compared to other colors. The range is composed of 13 colors, with a grey hair coverage capacity of about 90% 100%. OBJECTIVE: Cover up grey and increase color intensity. The special super-pigmentation effect provides balanced, long-lasting results and color intensity for hard-to-color hair. Its highlight shades are always created in pure forms, permitting a richer highlight intensity while maintaining full color properties, even after numerous washes. HOW TO USE: With this type of coloring, we always use an equal-part oxidizing mixture. The developer we use for this mixture will always be 20 vol. DIVINA HT 60 gr + 60 ml of EVYOXIN 20 vol p 12

12 GENERICS This is the type of coloring that encompasses the greatest number of colors (44), widest range of uses and best variety of natural results. The characteristic that best defines this group of hair colors is the balance that can be obtained between pigmentation and highlight. OBJECTIVE: Equilibrium between pigmentation and highlight Natural color results Wide variety of different shades Within Generic coloring, we can find 5 groups of colors: 9 shades of basic colors, 6 ash highlight colors, 6 violet and reddish iridescent highlight colors, 9 copper highlight colors,6 reddish highlight colors and 8 golden highlight colors. Grey hair coverage depends on the type of coloring that is used, but it is estimated between 70% and 100%. HOW TO USE The method of preparation depends on the professional s objective when using this color. As a result, color preparation may be carried out with two different developer proportions. 1.- Lightening and highlight intensity In this case the proportion of developer would be 1+1½, with 30V developer. DIVINA GENERIC 60 gr + 90 ml of EVYOXIN 30 vol p 13

13 2.- Tone levelling and covering fragile grey hair In this case we should reduce the volumes of developer to ensure good grey hair coverage, properly balancing the pigment oxidation development. The proportion to use in this case would be 1+1, with 20V developer. DIVINA GENERIC 60 gr + 60 ml of EVYOXIN 20 vol p 14

14 SUPER-HIGHLIGHTS A powerful lightening agent that allows lightening hair as much as two shades beyond what generic coloring is capable of. OBJECTIVE: Maximum lightening on natural bases Balanced lightening and tinges This lightening effect does not interfere with the hair s basic properties; its balanced protein formulation makes the pigment-elimination reaction very fast and not aggressive to hair. Divina offers 6 different super-highlights. Maximum Lightening To achieve this effect, we must bear in mind the product s limitations. A superhighlight is a lightener, not a stripping agent, and therefore is not a substitute for a bleaching agent when eliminating color pigments. In order to achieve maximum lightening with natural hair, the Divina line has developed 2 colors designed to lighten hair up to 4 shades from its natural color. As tint lighteners, the super-highlight line is made up of 4 formulas in which iridescent and ash highlights may aid in neutralising oxidation highlights. Its color effects also help cover grey hair. HOW TO USE 1.- Lightening dark-colored hair The proportion of super-highlight used when tinting dark hair is 1+1½, with Evyoxin 40V developer and an exposuretime of approximately 40 minutes. DIVINA SUPER-HIGHLIGHT 60 gr + 90 ml of EVYOXIN 40 vol p 15

15 2.- Lightening medium-coloured hair When applied to medium-coloured hair, the proportion is 1+2 with 30V oxidizer and 30 minutes exposure time. DIVINA SUPER-HIGHLIGHT 30 gr + 60 ml of EVYOXIN 30 vol Manual of Colour p 18

16 POST-BLEACHING TINGES 1.- Lightening-tingeing effect (post-highlight tinge) 2.- Only tingeing effect (post-bleaching tinge) OBJECTIVE: Neutralize oxidation highlights. The Divina line offers 6 tinges for use with this technique, designed to counteract the effects of undesired highlights from bleaching. HOW TO USE 1.- Stripping This is the bleaching of colored hair. In this case, the highlight is usually more intense. For this reason, we apply the tinge directly, in a 1+2 proportion with 20V developer. It should be applied once the hair has been washed and dried. Result after applying matiz Apply tinge TONE HIGHLIGHT 8- Light Blond Copper Golden Divina 10 ½ 9- Very Light Blond Golden Copper Divina Platinum blond Golden Divina Matiz in stripping: 1 Oz of tone + 1 Oz of Matiz tinge + 2 Oz of EVYOXIN 20 vol 2.- Bleaching This is the technique of lightening naturally colored hair by bleaching it. In this case, the highlights are lighter. Matiz tinges can be applied directly with developer: Matiz mixing: 1 Oz of Matiz tinge + 2 Oz of EVYOXIN 10 vol p 17

17 POST SUPER-HIGHLIGHT TINGES A new concept in highlighting, these tinges take advantage of the super-highlight s lightening action to increase their own lightening capacity and reduce the intensity of oxidation highlights. The correct tinge should be applied depending on the highlight resulting from the super-highlight. Therefore, it is very important to correctly measure the developer and to time the tinge exposure carefully. OBJECTIVE: Lighten and neutralize intense oxidation highlights HOW TO USE The hair must have been lightened with super-highlights prior to its use. Once the color is rinsed out, dry the hair with a hairdryer, completely removing any moisture. Brush the hair and apply the most appropriate tinge to achieve the desired result (see technical recommendations). Prepare the color mix with 2 Oz of Evyoxin developer 10 Vol with 1 Oz of Matiz tinge Apply the product and observe its reaction to determine when to remove it. Result after applying the super-highlight TONE HIGHLIGHT APPLY TINGE 7- Blond Reddish-Copper M Light Blond Copper-Golden M Very Light Blond Golden-Copper M-12 p 18

18 FANTASY TINGES These colors are especially designed to correct, modify or provide intensely pure highlights. The Divina line has 4 Fantasy colors that provide pure highlight definition, allowing them to be used by direct application (giving a purer color) or in highlight tinges (according to the principles of color theory). The Fantasy color line is formed by: red, orange, blue and violet. For correct usage while defining the highlight in all its purity, we must take into account the previous lightening bases with bleaching agents. To use them as tinges, an exact analysis is advisable prior to application. Thanks to this effect we obtain: Shiny highlights with pure color intensity Mixtures obtaining maximum highlights Highlight neutralizers OBJECTIVE 1: Shiny highlights with pure color intensity Hair must have an optimal application base in order to guarantee the highlight result. For this reason, the hair must be previously bleached in order to get an easy highlight application. HOW TO USE Basic features of Fantasy Highlight use The hair must have an optimal application base for highlight application and development. Blue needs a 9-10 base. The intensity of the highlight cannot be too yellow; otherwise we will have to bleach. p 19

19 Orange requires a 7-8 base. The orange base must not be too light; otherwise the orange will come out yellow in tone. Similarly, the highlights should not be overly intense. Red requires a 6-7 base. A lighter base may result in a reddish-orange, losing color intensity with washing and ending up orange in tone. Violet needs a 9-10 base in order to avoid overly yellow highlights. If the bases are natural colored and the color intensity is uniform from the roots to the ends, it may be applied directly without decoloring. If there are remains of color or a color bath that may interfere with the result (even though the color is the same as the mentioned base color) the hair must be bleached. Achieving a uniform shade is an important step prior to the application of the Fantasy highlights. The highlight intensity and duration depends on this. Level of tone required for correct highlight development: Application base Highlight lightening Red 0.66 Orange 0.44 Blue 0.11 Violet Dark Blond Reddish orange OK 7. Blond Yellow Orange OK OK 8. Light Blond Orange Yellow OK 9. Very Light blond Light Yellow OK OK 10. Platinum blond Bright/shiny OK OK OBJECTIVE 2: Neutralisation of the highlight according to the law of color When applied as tinges, pure colors may be used to neutralise unwanted highlights, using them always as highlight correctors. When using them as such, it is important to bear in mind the intensity of the existing highlights, the porosity of the hair and the application base. This calculation allows us to establish the correct proportion of color as well as the proportion and volume of the developer. Using this technique, these should never be used as stand-alone colors. They are always mixed with tone 8 base color in a proportion 1+10, meaning one part of pure highlight for every ten parts of base color. For an exact mixture calculation, it is recommended to measure in centimetres. p 20

20 OBJECTIVE 3: Mixtures resulting in maximum highlights A mixture of highlights of Fantasy intensity may be used during coloring to achieve a greater highlight definition and long lasting results. Highlight pigmentation This procedure mixes your favourite Fantasy highlight color with color and developer as required to get the desired color. Example: To get an intense reddish shade, mix 1 Oz of 8.64 with 1 Oz of 0.66, with 30V developer in a 3 Oz proportion. This mixture adds a highlight pigmentation effect, increasing the intensity and allowing for a better, longer-lasting highlight color. HIGHLIGHT PIGMENTATION 1 Oz highlight + 1 Oz Fantasy Tinge + 3 Oz of EVYOXIN 30 vol, exposure time 30 minutes. Custom color If a specific highlight is not available and you wanted to create a Fantasy color, this may be done by mixing a 1/4 of Fantasy color with a 3/4 part base color. The base color is always one number more than the desired shade (in the case of little or no grey hair) and a shade darker than the desired color (in the case of grey or lightened hair). Example: Custom color Desired color Color mixture Developer Time Grey hair Divina 7.4 ¼ of ¾ of 6 2 Oz of 20V 40 Lightened hair No grey hair Colored hair Divina 7.4 ¼ of ¾ of 8 2 Oz of 20V 40 p 21

21 DIVINA PROPORTIONS CHART Below is a summary chart indicating the ideal proportion of color and developer for each DIVINA family, as well as the recommended exposure times. This same chart can be found in the Divina color chart. DIVINA COLOR APPLICATION GENERICS ESSENTIALS HT TENACITY FANTASY SUPER-HIGHLIGHTS MATIZ TINGES Grey hair Non-grey hair Dark tones Medium tones Developer 20 vol - 6% 30 vol - 9% 20 vol - 6% 10 vol - 3% 40 vol - 12% 30 vol - 9% 10 vol - 3% Color proportion Developer proportion 2 Oz 2 Oz 2 Oz 1 Oz 2 Oz 1 Oz 1 Oz 2 Oz 3 Oz 2 Oz 2 Oz 3 Oz 2 Oz 2 Oz Exposure time min 30 min 30 min 5-15 min 40 min 30 min 5-15 min p 22