Housekeeping Positions Study Guide

Transcription

1 Housekeeping Positions Study Guide This document is intended to provide information about some of the knowledge necessary to perform duties as an employee in the Housekeeping departments at Community College of Allegheny County and may be used to prepare for the pre employment assessment conducted during the search process for a vacancy. The information provided in this guide is not intended to be a comprehensive document covering all areas of the assessment. This guide may not be used or referenced during the actual assessment. Version 1.0

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Cleaning... 3 General...3 Office & Classroom...3 Chalk and Dry Mark Board...4 Lamp and Light Fixtures...4 Restroom Caring for flooring... 6 Vacuuming... 7 Green Cleaning... 9 Dust Mopping...10 Damp Mopping...12 Auto Scrubbing...12 Top Scrubbing...12 Recoating...13 High Speed Buffing...13 High Speed Restoration...15 Stripping...15 Sealing & Finishing Caring for carpeting Entrance Mats...18 Shampooing Painting Chemicals Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 2

3 1. CLEANING GENERAL Asthma is the leading cause of disease-related absenteeism in the United States. There are many things outside of our direct control that can cause asthma attacks such as pollen, animal dander, and tobacco smoke. Some things that we can change are the use of cleaning products with high VOC levels, products with heavy fragrances, and dyes. We can also modify the cleaning, maintenance, and scheduling of procedures that we employ to offset the triggers of asthma related illness. OFFICE AND CLASSROOM CARE Daily Procedures High dust walls, ceilings, light fixtures and vents Clean acoustical tile ceiling with vacuum cleaner When cleaning all overhead items you should wear safety glasses Pick up all large trash from floor and place into waste basket Empty pencil sharpeners into waste baskets Remove trash liner and place into container on cart Clean chalk rails by immersing clean cloth in small pail of water and damp dusting the rails, lifting and replacing erasers and chalk as you go. Low dust or damp dust all flat dust collecting surfaces. You should dust surfaces above eye level and below knew level weekly Spray disinfect clean on cloth and clean around the pencil sharpener, light switch, door knob, etc. Be alert for dust on vertical surfaces such as sides of desks, etc. When dusting window ledges, close and lock any open windows Make a written record of anything that is amiss or needs repair and turn into your supervisor. Use a clean cloth and glass cleaner to clean door windows Carpeted floors, follow carpet cleaning procedures Dust mop the floor. Start in the farthest corner of the room Use pick up broom to clean the corners Use either rubbing alcohol or Expo cleaner to remove stains from a dry-mark board. All the soil should be near the door when through dust mopping Pick up with dust pan and lobby broom Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 3

4 Do not shake out the dust mop inside the building Use the putty knife to remove any gum, or other deposits from the floor and desks. Wring out the mop and wet mop the floor. Inspect the classroom or office before leaving. CHALKBOARDS AND DRY MARK BOARDS Most schools and many offices contain chalkboards. A chalkboard must be properly cared for if it is to continue to work well for a long time. Chalkboards have a rough surface that wears away the chalk and causes it to leave a mark behind. If chalk, dirt, and oils are allowed to build up on the surface of the board, they smooth out the rough surface of the board and it can no longer wear away the chalk. Chalkboards need washing only every few months, when dirt and oil have built up on their surfaces. When washing is required, use a mild detergent solution and a rag or sponge to wash the chalkboards, moving from top to bottom. Rinse with clear water. When the board is completely dry, you must chalk it in by rubbing over its entire surface with the side of a piece of chalk, then erase the excess chalk dust with a felt eraser. The light dusting of chalk that is left on the board makes the board easier to erase completely. Additionally there are dry mark boards found in many offices, classrooms, and labs which are easy to care for. Generally wiping them with clear water is the only cleaning that is needed. A small amount of detergent can be added to the water, if necessary. If these boards become stained (often because the wrong type of marker was used on them), use Expo or rubbing alcohol to remove the marks. Never use any kind of abrasive on a dry marker board. LAMPS AND LIGHT FIXTURES Keeping lamps and light fixtures clean is an important part of custodial maintenance. Cleaning lamps and light fixtures helps keep lighting at the proper level. Light fixtures can be mounted overhead or on a wall. Lamps are portable lighting units that can be located on a desk, on a table, or on the floor. Whenever you are working with lamps and lighting fixtures, safety must be your first concern. Some safety rules are: a. Always turn off or disconnect power before cleaning. b. Be alert for broken glass. Light bulbs and tubes are very fragile and can be easily broken. The sharp edges can cut you. c. If you are using a ladder to clean overhead fixtures, have someone steady the ladder. Wood or fiberglass ladders are the best to use to avoid the danger of electric shock. d. Wear safety glasses when working overhead to keep dust and broken glass out of your eyes. e. To avoid the risk of burns, allow hot bulbs to cool before cleaning. Never touch a hot bulb or other glass with a damp cloth. Doing so could cause the glass to break. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 4

5 RESTROOM CARE Use natural acid products for cleaning and removing hard water deposits on appropriate surfaces and descaling the flushing rim of a urinal with a bowl mop. On surfaces not appropriate for natural acids, use an all purpose cleaner followed by a neutral disinfectant cleaner. A disinfectant cleaner differs from a cleaning agent in that the disinfectant kills germs. In environments where one step cleaning and disinfecting is appropriate, look for an EPA registered cleaner, disinfectant that contains non-pathogenic organic consuming bacteria for residual cleaning and malodor prevention. Sometimes a particular area may need to be disinfected. To disinfect means to kill most of the germs in the area. This is a process that requires putting a disinfectant chemical on the surface after removing the dirt. Disinfectants are made from many different chemicals: natural phenol, synthetic phenol, iodine, hypochloric, quaternary ammonium compounds, and natural pine oil are the most common. Each of these chemicals has some advantages and disadvantages, and each kind of disinfectant is made to kill only certain types or kinds of germs. Select the kind of disinfectant to use according to the kind of germs you are killing. You can use many of the same chemicals to clean urinals that you use to clean toilets. Use a cleaner/disinfectant to kill germs. Use detergent to remove dirt and stains not removed by the cleaner/disinfectant. Metal polish makes the flushing valves and pipes shiny. Acid bowl cleaner applied with a bowl brush removes the scale from the flushing rims. Do not use scouring pads or powdered cleansers to clean urinals. They both scratch the porcelain surfaces and scratches make good places for germs to grow. Use an acid bowl cleaner that has just a small amount of hydrochloric acid in it. Too much acid can damage the urinal and piping. It could also burn you if it were to splash on you. Be sure to use a metal polish that has no abrasives to polish the piping. Always inspect the metal faucets and pipes. If they look dull, it is time to polish them. Pour a little metal polish on a clean cloth. Never pour the polish directly onto the metal. If you do, it will run down into the sink and down the drain, then you will have to polish the sink again. Rub the faucets and pipes with the cloth and polish. Do not rub hard. Wipe off the excess polish with a dry cloth. Before washing restroom walls, either by hand or with a machine, you must remove any graffiti and stains. Graffiti is the marking and handwriting often found on restroom walls and partitions. Most graffiti can be removed with a detergent or lotion cleanser. First, try to remove the graffiti with a clean cloth and detergent from a spray bottle. If this method does not work, pour a tablespoon of lotion cleanser onto the cloth and rub the wall hard. If the graffiti still remains, and the wall is ceramic tile or unpainted concrete, remove the graffiti with paint remover or varnish remover. If the wall is painted, it is best to repaint the wall right over the graffiti. The best way to keep people from writing on walls is to coat the walls with a clear acrylic coating. The coating is harder to write on but easier to clean than bare or painted walls. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 5

6 When cleaning the glass and mirrors use either a spray bottle or cloth to apply the glass cleaner and then dry the surface off with a clean microfiber cloth or for the larger areas remove it with a squeegee. Always allow dwell time when apply disinfectants to counter tops, sinks, faucets and toilets IAW directions of products being used. When cleaning a faucet with metal polish you should put the polish on a clean cloth. Before washing restroom walls and partitions you remove graffiti and stains with detergents. When diluting liquid detergents, you should always add the cleaning agent to the water to help prevent scudding. Before diluting you agents you should always check with your Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for proper procedures about, health hazard, toxicity, special protection information and storage and handling information. As with all cleaning areas be it classroom, office or restroom when you do routine cleaning the floor would be the last clean area. After the above-floor surfaces and plumbing fixtures are cleaned, then clean the floor. Most of the restroom dirt should be on the floor then. Always clean dry to wet. Do all the dry cleaning first. When you clean the floor the right way, it will stay clean longer- and your work will be easier. Always make sure the floor is dry first. 2. CARING FOR FLOORING Wood flooring has been used for many centuries. Wood is hard, resists wear, has good resilience, is not very slippery (depending on its finish), and is easy to care for. The natural beauty of wood makes it worthy of the best care that you can give it. With poor care, wood will not keep its good looks and will not last as long as it should. The timber cut from trees is divided into two (2) main categories- softwoods and hardwoods. Early flooring was mostly softwoods, both because the supply was plentiful, and because softwoods were easy to work using basic hand tools. It was usually laid in planks of varying widths. Softwood does not resist abrasion or dents as well as hardwood does. Therefore when lumbering equipment and seasoning methods improved, hardwood began to replace softwood as flooring. Modern industrial and commercial wood floors are almost always hardwood. It wears longer and more evenly and resists abrasion better than softwood. It also withstands heavy traffic over longer periods of time. All wood floors must be cleaned carefully. Wood is porous and water will cause it to swell, deteriorate, and lose its color. Wood also will lose its color from contact with acids, alkalines, and many other chemicals. The four (4) types of wood flooring that you will find most often are: a. Strip b. Board c. Vertical wood block d. Parquet You need to know about each of these types in order to understand and choose the proper methods of care. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 6

7 You can do more cleaning tasks with a floor machine if you have a variety of attachments. Years ago brushes and steel wool pads were the most popular attachments for single disk floor machines. However synthetic pads have almost completely replaced brushes. Nylon or polyester fibers or strings are now used on most pads. Pads come in the same range of sizes as the single disk machines. They are ¼ inch up to 1 inch thick. Thicker pads cost more, but they last longer. Fiber pads are coated with one of three (3) grades of abrasive (rough) material: a very rough abrasive for stripping off old wax, a medium abrasive for scrubbing dirt, and one with only a light abrasive for buffing and polishing. The color of the pad tells you how abrasive it is. The color varies from black or dark brown (very abrasive) for stripping to white (slightly abrasive) for polishing. Screen grids in different grades of abrasiveness are also available to remove old sealer from wooden floors and to sand them. If you have only damp mopped or wet mopped the floor, some floors can be dry buffed to make them shiny. Do not try to dry buff a non-buffable finish. Read the label on the finish container to make sure. Some spots might not shine even after dry buffing. You can make them shine by spray buffing them. Remember to dust mop again after you spray buff. When damp mopping or wet mopping is not enough to get the dirt off the floor, it is time to scrub the floor. Use a floor machine with a synthetic pad or a deck brush, depending on the size and shape of the floor. Follow the procedures as detailed but be careful not to scrub too much. If you do, you can wear away the floor finish. If the dirt is not easily removed, allow the solution to remain on the floor for 2 to 4 minutes, but not long enough to dry up. Then you can scrub the floor again. It is a good idea to spray buff the whole floor after scrubbing to restore some of the finish that has been worn away. VACUUMING You may use a wet/dry vacuum cleaner for several different cleaning tasks. It can pick up wet soil and water as well as dry dust and dirt. Using a vacuum can be very useful when pressure washing a room surface or scrubbing a floor that does not have a drain. It is also useful for removing moisture and foam from carpet after cleaning. To remove dry soil with a wet/dry vacuum, use it the same way that you would a dry tank vacuum. Be sure to install the filter in the tank. The operation and the attachments are the same. However, if you need to pick up wet soil or water, be sure to remove the dry tank filter bag from the machine. Depending upon the machines design, you may or may not have to install a wet filter bag. Always check the instruction for bag use. To clean the wet/dry vacuum, you must first remove the motor from the top of the tank by releasing the latches that hold the motor. Pull the motor straight up and lay it on its side out of the way so that it cannot be damaged. Next remove the filter and run clear, hot water through the filter to remove all soil. Hang the filter over a utility sink in a custodial closet to drip dry. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 7

8 The compressed-air and vacuum-sweeper is similar to the broom and vacuum sweeper. However, instead of sweeping the dirt and trash into the hopper with a broom, it uses a jet of high-pressure air to do the job. The compressed air comes from a high speed fan. Dirt and trash are caught up in the air stream, and then sucked into the hopper by the vacuum. After the dirt falls into the hopper, the air flows back to the fan. The fan compresses the air, and reuses it to blast more dirt from the surface that you are cleaning. All compressed air and vacuum sweepers are self propelled. Usually you must ride on top of them. They are somewhat larger than broom and vacuum sweepers. The smallest size (50 inch cleaning width) is ideal for use inside large buildings that have good ventilation. The larger sizes (up to 80 inch cleaning width) are big enough to clean alleys and streets. Compressed air does a better job of picking up wet trash and getting dirt out of cracks and corners than a rotating broom does. Stripping means removing the entire old floor finish from a floor. When scrubbing a floor, you might remove the top surface of the floor finish to get the floor clean. In stripping, you remove all of the floor finish. You must strip floors whenever the finish begins to change color because of a buildup of floor finish. Since this process can damage the floor surface, use it only when other methods are no longer effective. Floor care products are either a water base or a solvent base. Water based finishes are used on resilient tile, linoleum, terrazzo, and concrete floors. You will use a water based stripper (usually detergent containing ammonia) to strip them. Solvent based finishes (used on wood, cork, terrazzo, and concrete floors) are made with solvents, such as mineral spirits. An auto-scrubber should be used if there is a lot of smooth flooring that needs to be wet cleaned each day. The flooring should not have a lot of furniture or equipment that needs to be moved and replaced. An auto-scrubber requires a lot of maintenance (adjustment, servicing, cleaning, etc), both before and after use. Although these tasks take time, the machine can save even more time if used in the right areas When cleaning hallways, overlap each pass by at least two (2) inches. At the end of each pass, turn the machine around. Do not leave the solution feed on while you turn the machine. If you do, you will leave a puddle of solution on the floor at the end of each pass. Turn the solution feed off about eight (8) feet before you reach the turn-around point. Do not worry if a little solution remains on the floor after you turn around. You can pick it up with a mop at the end of the job. When cleaning a large area, begin along the wall and move in circles toward the center of the room. This path eliminates the need for constant turning. Finish the job by wet mopping corners and edges as needed. GREEN CLEANING The steps for Floor Care in a GREEN cleaning and maintenance program are comparable, in most aspects, with those of a traditional program. However, Floor Care in a GREEN cleaning and maintenance program should concentrate on the assortment of environmentally preferred and reduce risk products, plus the equipment. A few slight adjustments of the procedures themselves Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 8

9 may also be recommended. These recommendations are intended to prolong the "life" of the floor finish and reduce the frequency of stripping and recoating. Specific focus should be : 1. Keep outside entryways clean to prevent soil from being tracked into the facility. 2. Use entry mats to trap soil and moisture from shoes. It is recommended that the mats be large enough for each shoe to touch the mat twice (approximately ten to fifteen feet). 3. Vacuum frequently used entryway mats and grating systems using a high quality vacuum. 4. Dust mop frequently under floor mats to decrease the possibility for moisture. 5. Top scrubbing and recoating should be part of a regularly scheduled maintenance program to minimize stripping and refinishing. 6. Those stripping the floors must be properly trained on all equipment, procedures, and Floor Care chemicals used at the facility. The objective of a GREEN cleaning and maintenance for floors is to decrease the need for stripping and maximize the life of the floor finish. Product Selection Some things to consider when selecting products for a GREEN cleaning and maintenance program: Floor Strippers: Lowest ph that provides desired performance. No or low VOC levels to minimize discomfort or staff/occupants. No solvents, butyls, or ammonia. No or low levels of dyes and fragrances. No chelating agents. Floor Finishes: No heavy metals. No or low odor. No formaldehyde. No glycol ether. Low ammonia and low VOC's. Equipment Selection: Vacuum cleaners that capture a minimum of 99% of 0.3 micron particles. Be certain vacuum bags are changed when half full to maximize filtering efficiency. Floor machines (buffers and burnishers) equipped with vacuum attachments. No feather dusters; use damp cloths or micro-fiber cloths. DUST MOPPING Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 9

10 Purpose of Dust Mopping 1) Remove dust, sand, and litter from smooth finished floors. 2) Improve the floor s appearance, sanitation and safety 3) Prolongs the life of the floor surface and finish. Tools and Materials Needed 1) Dust mop handle and head 2) Clean damp rags 3) Putty knife 4) Dust pan 5) Counter brush 6) High duster Dust Mopping Procedures 1) Remove movable furniture from area to be cleaned. 2) All high dusting should be done prior to dust mopping the floor. When dusting a room 1) Start along the wall, moving in a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Try to move from the dirtiest area to the cleanest. 2) Push dust and litter towards door or main aisle for pick up. 3) Do not raise mop head from the floor. 4) Scrap up gum and other material which adheres to the floor as you come to it, using the putty knife. When dusting a hallway or corridor 1) Walk forward, swinging the mop rhythmically from left to right. 2) Use a five to seven foot stroke, whichever is most comfortable. 3) Work from the cleanest area towards the dirtiest. When using a push stroke 1) Push directly ahead while walking forward. 2) Pivot the mop head without lifting it off the floor at the end of each pass. 3) Return the same way you came making a two or three inch overlap. Use the counter brush for hard to dust areas such as 1) Corners 2) Under desks 3) Around doors 4) Around cords If the dust mop is extremely soiled, a new head may be required. Old dust mops should be laundered. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 10

11 To prevent floor discoloration, avoid using oil on dust mops. Pick up dust using your counter brush and dust pan. When finished dusting vacuum dust mop and hang up. DAMP MOPPING Purpose of Damp Mopping 1) Remove dirt and soil from the floor finish 2) No film will be left on the dry floor if a neutral ph cleaner is used. Tools and Materials Needed 1) Dust mop handle and head 2) Mop head and handle 3) "Wet floor" signs 4) Gloves and glasses 5) Mop bucket and wringer 6) Products Damp Mopping Procedure 1) Put on personal protection equipment. 2) Place "Wet floor" signs at every entrance. 3) Move furniture and other light objects for ease in mopping. D. Dust mop the floor prior to damp mopping. 4) Fill mop bucket with cold water and Neutral Floor Cleaner. F. Move mop and bucket into the area to be cleaned. 5) Dip mop into the cleaning solution and wring out just enough so the mop water does not drip from the mop. a) Start at the farthest corner. b) Work backwards towards the entrance. 6) Keep mop bucket on the unmopped portion of the floor. 7) Damp mop an area 10' x 15' or 150 square feet. AUTO SCRUBBING Tools and Materials Needed 1) Dust mop handle and head 2) Automatic Scrubber 3) "Wet floor" signs 4) Gloves and glasses 5) White or red floor pads or appropriate scrub brush 6) Dry cloth rags 7) Cleaner products a) Low Foaming Neutral Floor Cleaner b) Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E.) as called for in the M.S.D.S. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 11

12 Procedure 1) Put on personal protection equipment. 2) Place "Wet floor" signs at every entrance. 3) Move furniture and other light objects for ease in auto scrubbing. 4) Dust mop the floor prior to auto scrubbing. 5) Fill automatic scrubber with cold water and Neutral Floor Cleaner. 6) Turn on machine, vacuum and brush motors. Turn on solution at light flow; lower brushdeck/ pads and squeegee. 7) Start along the wall and work in collapsing circles moving towards the middle of the room or hallway. Overlap 3-4 inches on each pass. 8) Wipe up any water left behind with a dry cloth. 9) After floor has dried, replace furniture. 10) Empty and rinse the auto scrubber's solution and recovery tanks in the custodial sink. TOP SCRUBBING Purpose To remove heavy dirt, stains and scuff marks. This is the preliminary step to recoating or high speed buffing the floor to restore original finish appearance. Tools and Materials Needed 1) Clean cloths 2) Doodle bug and pad 3) 175 rpm single disk machine or automatic scrubber 4) Blue or green pads 5) Two mops 6) Two buckets with wringers 7) Wet/dry vacuum 8) Gloves and eye protection 9) Products a) General Purpose/Scrub and Recoat Cleaner b) Personal protective equipment as called for in M.S.D.S. Procedure for Top Scrubbing 1) Put on gloves and eye protection. 2) Fill both buckets with water. 3) In one bucket, mix Recoat Cleaner. 4) Place Wet Floor signs at each entrance. 5) Apply solution to a 20 foot by 20 foot area of the floor with a mop. 6) Scrub the wet floor with the single disk and pad. Scrub edges with doodle bug and pad. 7) Pick up the scrubbed solution with the wet/dry vacuum. 8) Rinse the floor just scrubbed with clear water and a rinse mop. 9) Repeat on another section until the entire floor has been top scrubbed. 10) Wipe baseboard with clean cloths to clean up any splashes from scrubbing. 11) Rinse entire floor with a fresh bucket of clear water. 12) Allow floor to dry. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 12

13 Top scrubbing does not restore the floor s original luster. The floor is now ready to recoat or high speed buff. Refer to those sections for instructions on how to proceed. TOP SCRUBBING WITH THE AUTOMATIC SCRUBBER 1) Put on gloves and eye protection. 2) Fill one bucket with water. 3) Mix Recoat Cleaner in the automatic scrubber 4) Place Wet Floor signs at each entrance 5) Apply solution to a 20 foot by 20 foot area of the floor with the automatic scrubber. 6) Scrub the wet floor with the automatic scrubber. Turn off the vacuum motor and keep the squeegee in the up position on the first pass. On the second pass, turn on the vacuum, lower the squeegee and pick up the scrubbed solution. 7) Scrub edges with doodle bug and pad. 8) Rinse the just scrubbed floor with clear water and a rinse mop. 9) Repeat on another section until the entire floor has been top scrubbed. 10) Wipe baseboard with clean cloths to clean up any splashes from scrubbing. 11) Rinse entire floor with a fresh bucket of clear water. 12) Allow the floor to dry. 13) Empty and rinse the auto scrubber s solution and recovery tanks in the custodial sink. 14) Wipe down the auto scrubber and return all your equipment to the storage area. RECOATING Purpose 1) Bring gloss level back. 2) Restore finish layer worn away through floor traffic and top scrubbing. Tools and Materials Needed 1) Bucket with wringer 2) Liner 3) Finish mop or applicator 4) "Wet floor" signs 5) Products a) Green Floor Seal & Finish b) Personal protective equipment (P.P.E.) as called for by M.S.D.S. Procedure for recoating a floor 1) Start with a top scrubbed floor. Allow floor to dry. 2) Put or keep "Wet floor" signs at all entrances. 3) Put on protective equipment. 4) Pour finish into liner in mop or applicator bucket. 5) Dip the finish mop or applicator into Green Floor Seal & Finish. Wring out the mop or tamp the applicator head just to point that it is not dripping. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 13

14 6) Start at the farthest corner from door. a) Frame a small area and fill in using a figure eight pattern. b) Turn mop frequently. c) Apply finish all the way to the baseboard. d) Work backwards toward the door. 7) Continue working side by side areas, keeping overlapping edges wet. 8) Allow finish to dry thoroughly. 9) Clean up. a) Wash out finish mop or applicator, hang to dry. b) Throw away leftover finish and liner. Twist, tie and toss. c) Clean all equipment and store for future use. HIGH SPEED BUFFING Purpose Improve the attractiveness of the floor by increasing the gloss. Tools and Materials Needed 1) High speed machine 2) Appropriate pads 3) Dust mop and handle 4) Products 5) Mop bucket and wringer 6) Mop and handle 7) Products a) Low Foaming Neutral Floor Cleaner b) Personal protective equipment as called for in M.S.D.S. Procedure 1) Dust mop, then damp mop the floor with Neutral Cleaner, following procedures. 2) Allow floor to dry. 3) Place appropriate pad on machine. 4) Do not use an extension cord when working with high speed machines. a. Machine will operate more efficiently. b. Machine will have a longer life. 5) Start high speed buffing next to the baseboard. Work away from the electric outlet to keep from tangling the cord. 6) When you come to the end of your pass a. Raise the machine pad off the floor before turning. b. When you have turned around, lower the machine pad gently. This will prevent damage to the floor. 7) After high speed buffing the entire area, dust mop the floor using a treated dust mop. H. Remove the pad from the machine. Wash out and hang to dry. 8) Wrap up cord and store machine for future use. 9) Do not allow the machine to rest on the pad drive holder. HIGH SPEED RESTORATION Purpose Restore luster to floor dulled by heavy foot traffic. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 14

15 Give the floor the "wet look". Used between recoating and stripping to fill in scratches. Procedure for High Speed Restoration 1) Allow floor to dry thoroughly after damp mopping with Neutral Cleaner. 2) Line an empty mop bucket with a liner. 3) Place or keep "Wet floor" signs at each entrance. 4) Dip a clean finish mop into the floor finish restorer and wring out dry enough so it does not drip. 5) Apply a thin coat of floor restorer 6) Start in farthest corner from the entrance. 7) Apply in figure eight motion, in 6 to 8 foot sections. 3. Turn mop head over frequently. 8) Allow to dry while cleaning equipment. a) Clean out finish mop. b) Discard any floor finish restorer remaining in bucket. Twist, tie and toss. 9) Dry buff the floor finish restorer on the floor using a high speed machine with the appropriate pad. 10) After buffing floor, wash out pads. Store all equipment away for future use. STRIPPING Purpose Thorough stripping and rinsing is the basis for: 1) Sealer to penetrate the surface of the tile. 2) Removal of accumulations of old finish and impacted soils. 3) Building a strong foundation and maximum adhesion for subsequent finish layers. It is time to strip when: 1) The finish begins to build up. 2) The floor begins to change color. 3) Mopping, spray buffing and rewaxing no longer give desired results. Tools and Materials Needed: 1) Two clean mop heads with handles 2) Two buckets with wringers 3) Broom and dust pan 4) 175 rpm single disk floor machine (splash guard optional) 5) Black stripping pads 6) Wet/dry vacuum Floor squeegee 7) Putty knife 8) Doodle bug and pad 9) "Wet floor" signs 10) Walk off mats or drop cloths taped down 11) Baseboard stripper 12) Putty knife or stand up scraper 13) Cleaning Products a) Green Floor Finish Remover b) Clear water 14) Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for chemicals 15) Personal protective equipment as called for in MSDS Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 15

16 Procedure 1) Remove as much furniture as possible from the area to be stripped. a) If heavy, seek help. 2) Dust mop the floor thoroughly before beginning stripping. a) This will remove all loose material that could cut or scratch the floor during the stripping operation. 3) Remove gum, tar and other foreign material from the floor with a stand up scraper or putty knife. 4) Move all equipment and tools to area to be stripped prior to beginning work. 5) Place "Wet floor" signs at every entrance. 6) Put on gloves and personal protection equipment. 7) Apply Floor Finish Remover diluted to baseboards and 3" of floor edge. 8) Be careful not to coat walls and painted surfaces. 9) Let set 2-3 minutes. 10) Reapply if drying out. 11) Agitate with doodle bug. 12) Rinse the scrubbed area with rinse mop using clear water. 13) Pick up solution using wet vacuum Always wear protective equipment as called for in M.S.D.S. Pour the FFR into water, following manufacturer's directions. Do not place mop in water until stripper has been added. Put on protective footwear. 1) Protect your feet and shoes. 2) Gives a better grip on slippery floor. Apply FFR liberally to the floor. 1) Start along the edge of the area. 2) Fill in the rest of the area in a figure eight motion. 3) Cover an area square feet at a time. 4) Let solution stand 5-10 minutes. 5) Do not let FFR dry out. 6) Reapply solution prior to scrubbing, if necessary. 7) Test with putty knife to make certain FFR has penetrated all the way through the old finish to the tile before scrubbing. Machine scrub the wetted area thoroughly. 1) Use the 175 machine and black stripping pad. 2) Move from where your feet are on dry floor into the FFR (walk in previously scrubbed areas). 3) Scrub slowly and overlap. 4) Pick up the stripping solution with wet vacuum. Move vacuum slowly to remove as much stripping solution from the pores as possible. Rinse the stripped area thoroughly. 1) Mop cool water onto the floor. Rinse corners and baseboards. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 16

17 2) Wet vacuum moving slowly. 3) Wipe down baseboards, and inspect the floor. 4) Repeat above steps as needed to assure clean floor. Allow the floor to dry thoroughly before applying the sea. Clean all equipment, wipe cords dry, and store for future use. Floor is now free of all sealer, finishes, dust, grime, gum and other foreign matter. It is ready for the first sealer coat. SEALING AND FINISHING FLOORS Purpose Seals and finishes, protects and beautifies the floor. Tools and Materials Needed A. Finish mop and handles B. Bucket with wringer C. Plastic liners D. "Wet floor" signs E. Products 1. Green Floor Seal & Finish (GS FS&F) (first coat requires one gallon per 750 square feet, second coat requires one gallon per 1500 square feet, subsequent coats require one gallon per 2500 square feet). 2. Material Safety Data Sheets for chemicals used. 3. Personal protective equipment as called for by M.S.D.S. Procedure A. Put a plastic liner into an empty bucket. Pour FS&F into the lined bucket. 1. Liner keeps the sealer uncontaminated by anything the bucket may still have in it. 2. Clean up is much easier. Just twist, tie and toss. B. Place "Wet floor" signs at every entrance. C. Move the tools and materials required into the area where the floor is being sealed. 3. CARING FOR CARPETING ENTRANCE MATS Tools and Materials Needed: Entrance Mats (exterior and interior Broom Vacuum Dust mop/dust cloth treatment Entrance Mats are used in two areas Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 17

18 1) Exterior Mats Outside all doors Common varieties include rubber backed with many rubber fingers and open weave with large grid pattern 2) Interior mats Inside all doors Length recommended to allow at least two steps by each foot before stepping on an interior floor Purpose of Entrance Mats 1) Exterior Mats Remove sand and gravel from shoes prior to entering the building. Minimize the amount of abrading material that will scratch and damage interior floors and finishes. 2) Interior Mats Remove moisture from shoes prior to walking on interior floors. Remove any remaining stones or particles not cleaned off by exterior mats Maintenance of Entrance Mats 1) Exterior Mats Lift from area in front of door. Shake out or turn over to dislodge rocks and gravel. Sweep sidewalk in front of doorway Reposition exterior mat in front of entrance. 2) Interior Mats Vacuum daily. Note: Replace with clean mat when vacuuming no longer restores mat to clean appearance. SHAMPOOING The dry foam method of shampooing allows very little water to get on the carpet. A dry foam shampooing machine compresses a shampoo solution into foam that contains only about 10% water. It sprays the foam onto one or more scrubbing brushes or sponges that work the foam down into the carpet pile. To make sure there are no streaks or gaps, shampoo forward and backward again crosswise (at a 90 degree angle) to the direction you shampooed first, over the entire carpet. If the carpet is very badly soiled, shampoo it a third time in a diagonal direction. If you shampoo just a soiled section, be sure to feather its edges. To feather the edges means to shampoo the edges of the soiled area very lightly. Use just enough shampoo to dampen the carpet Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 18

19 lightly. This procedure keeps a visible line from forming between the shampooed carpet section and the rest of the carpet. Removing stains from carpet is easiest if you do it immediately and correctly. First, try to find out what caused the stain. Then, following the proper procedures, remove the spot with a spot cleaning kit. No matter what kind of spot cleaning kit you use, you should check the carpet manufactures recommendations before using it. It is especially important to check with the manufacture of stain resistant carpets, since certain chemicals can affect the stain resistance of the carpet. Whichever kit you use, commercial or homemade, be sure to vacuum the area after removing the stain. Use a wet/dry vacuum if possible. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 19

20 4. PAINTING Applying coatings with rollers is at least twice as fast as brushing them on and requires less skill. They are excellent for large, flat areas although spraying is often better yet. Rollers are preferred where overspray would create a problem, either environmentally or aesthetically. Roller clean up is not quite as easy as brush cleanup, but is certainly not as complicated or time consuming as cleaning spray equipment. Rollers work much better on smooth surfaces then they do on rough surfaces. Roller covers vary in diameter from 1 ½ to 2 1/4. The most common length is 9 inches although covers range from 1 to 18 inches long. Lambs wool, mohair or synthetic fibers make up the pile, which is attached to a plastic or wire mesh holder. Pile length may be anywhere from ¼ inch to 1 1/4inch. The shorter pile is used for most smooth surfaces. The longest is used for painting rough surfaces and wire fencing, which is thus covered on both sides at once. Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 20

21 5. CHEMICALS In 1983, OSHA enacted the Hazard Communication standard. This standard defines the rights of employees to know about the hazardous chemicals they use in their jobs. Hazardous chemicals are those chemicals that can cause health issues, fires, explosions, or other dangerous situations. The main goal of the standard is to reduce illness and injury caused by chemicals in the work place. The risk of illness and injury is greater when people do not know what a particular chemical is or what effects it can have. Another goal of the standard is to make sure that this information is available to the people who work with these chemicals. The PHYSICAL DATA section of a typical MSDS lists the important characteristics of the hazardous chemical. Much of this information can help you detect chemical hazards and help protect yourself. To use chemical cleaning products correctly, you should know the answers to the following questions: a. How is the chemical diluted (if necessary)? b. How is the chemical applied? c. Does the chemical present any safety hazards? Many cleaning chemicals come in a concentrated form. The concentrated form allows the chemical to be stored in less space, be moved more easily, and transported at lower cost. To use liquid products, simply add them to water. Adding the product to water is called diluting the product. For dry products, add the water to the product. The dilution information that you would need is usually printed on the label of the chemical s container Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 21

22 Sample MSDS sheet Housekeeping Positions Study Guide 22