SCHWARTZ WATER-BASE WOOD FLOOR SEALER AND WATER-BASE PREMIIUM WOOD FLOOR FINISH

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1 !! SCHWARTZ WATER-BASE WOOD FLOOR SEALER AND WATER-BASE PREMIIUM WOOD FLOOR FINISH A Complete Guide for Preparation, Application, Curing and Maintenance for use with Schwartz H 2 O Water-base Floor Finish System. 81C1 81C30 81C50 81C90 H 2 O Wood Floor Sealer Satin H 2 O Polyurethane Semi-Gloss H 2 O Polyurethane Gloss H 2 O Polyurethane Above products can only be used by properly trained individuals. Improper use can pose a risk of property damage. Risks include, but is not limited to improper application. It is the trained finisher s responsibility and obligation to know all the safety precautions and recommended application process, therefore, Schwartz disclaims any and all warranties, express or implied, including warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Schwartz products are subject to a limited warranty. For full details please visit our website at or contact our office at (905) to request a copy. I. General Guidelines A. New Floor Ensure that new wood floors have properly acclimated for 5-7 days in the building at normal living conditions for temperature and humidity before starting the finishing process. As a general rule, normal living conditions mean a temperature of C (64-86 F) and a relative humidity range of 40 60%. The equilibrium moisture of wood must be 6 10%. By not observing these guidelines, the application may lead to failures. Schwartz recommends using a wood moisture meter to determine suitability. B. Old Floor Inspect floors thoroughly to make sure wood boards are still sound. In the event that water damage is confirmed, make all effort to address this issue first! 1!

2 before proceeding. Replace damaged and split boards, and follow recommended acclimation method in (I-A). C. Ambient Conditions During and after application of finishing system, maintain temperature at C (64-86 F) and a relative humidity range of 40 60%. Low temperature and high humidity can prolong dry times. For optimal curing/drying, adequate fresh air movement or ventilation is critical. Make all effort to ensure that dirt and dust are not tracked into the jobsite. D. Sanding and Screening 1. New Hardwood Floors Floors should be sanded with minimum three cuts using coarse (36,40), medium (80-120) and a used or fine 150-grit screen. This final sanding should provide a smooth and even surface, free from scratches, drum stop marks or gouges. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in Section I-D4. 2. Old Hardwood Floors To remove old finish, use coarse to medium grit (36 80) depending on the build-up of old finish. Finish off with used grit sandpaper or screen for final cut. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in Section I-D4. 3. Parquet Floors (New and Old) New Start with a 60-grit belt and move diagonally across the grain. Next is to use 80-grit belt on the opposite diagonal. Use the buffer and screen or disc (80-grit) to make a final cut with the room s longest dimension. Next, tackle edges with an edger using the same grit sequence. Move the edger along the direction of the grain. If necessary, use appropriate filler to fill gaps, let dry thoroughly before buffing. Lastly, buff with 120-grit screen. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in Section I-D4. Old Start with a 40-grit belt and move diagonally across the grain to remove the old finish. Next, use a 60-grit belt and move in the opposite diagonal. Use the buffer and screen or disc (80-grit) to make a final cut with the room s longest dimension. Next, tackle edges with an edger using the same grit sequence. Move the edger along the direction of the grain. If necessary, use appropriate filler to fill gaps, let dry thoroughly before buffing. Lastly, buff with 120-grit screen. Thoroughly! 2!

3 h fine grit on the edger. Complete the sandtion using the fine grit sandpaper on the der. lly, filling of nail holes, blemishes, cracks, ld be done before the fine sanding cut. Use a ially prepared wood flooring filler. Some y need coloring or may not take a bleaching ; check with the supplier or manufacturer. may be necessary to trowel fill the entire! ticularly an old floor, due to the extent of tween strips. Multiple character marks found d #2 COMMON Grades which are fillable ay also require trowel filling. Trowel filling done before the medium or final sanding the filler dry thoroughly before proceeding sanding. (Overnight is best.) Using a sanding disc (one grit finer) or screen disc (same grit as fine cut) on the buffer over the entire floor can also improve blending of edged and drum sanded areas. (See TIPS #11) Move buffing machine back and forth with the direction of flooring boards. If the floor is to be stained a light to medium color, the fine sanding cut with 80 grit sandpaper leaves the wood fibers open and enables more stain to penetrate, producing a deeper shade and more uniform appearance. An option is to screen with an 80 grit after the fine sanding cut, particularly if the fine cut sweep and was vacuum 100 grit. Use to remove of the buffer all sanding screen dust. increase Tack using method in the risk that circular scratches will show if a dark Section I-D4. stain is applied. drum sanding and edging are completed o hand scrape and then hand sand corners d doors and other cased openings. Also hand perimeter edges. Use the same grit as the Using a sanding block or electric oscillating an facilitate the hand sanding process. If the floor a dark color, the electric oscillator e egg shaped marks which will show in the nd sand these out or do not use the oscillator. sing a hand scraper apply even pressure, in the direction of the grain. Avoid gouging with the scraper. A brick with a piece of old lued around it makes a good sanding block. ut 6 into drum sanded area. Always sand pe in the direction of the grain along the boards. Parquet Floor Parquet Floor Source: NOFMA Fig. 7. Parquet, block, herringbone and similar floors. 4. Tacking Method Tack with damp cloth to remove all dry residue. Rinse soiled tack cloth and repeat tacking procedure until no dust is found on the floor. Let floor dry completely (approximately 1 hour) or wait until floor meets the General Guidelines found in section I-A. Apply finish system. Note floors should be sealed as soon as possible after final sanding. If prepared floors have been left for several hours or overnight, repeat tacking procedure before applying the finish system. II. Gym Floors A. Newly Installed Floor 1. Sealer - Follow recommendations on Sections I-A for acclimation, I-C for ambient conditions, and I-D1 for sanding and screening. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. Seal floor with 1 coat of 81C90 using T-bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad, or lambs wool. Let dry 2-4 hours. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions! 3!

4 different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. 2. Game Line Paints Apply appropriate game line paints following MFMA specifications. Always prepare a test panel beforehand to ensure compatibility with Schwartz finishing system. Mask game lines using precision taping machines or striping tools. Apply game line paints and allow to dry following manufacturer s recommendation. Depending on hiding power of paint, a second coat maybe required. Please follow recoat time as per manufacturer s recommendation. When using masking tape, pull tapes as soon as paint begins to dry or set. Let dry/cure for 24 hours before coating with the finish. Buff the entire floor with used grit screen or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack following section I-D4. 3. Topcoat Apply 2 coats of 81C90 following normal cure times. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen or maroon pad in between coats. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack following section I-D4. A third coat of 81C90 maybe applied for an added protection. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. Allow final finish coat to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before floor can be walked on. Avoid dragging any object across the floor, as it s still susceptible to scuffing. Do not replace mats before full cure. Under normal conditions, curing process takes approximately 14 days. Resume normal activity after full cure. Avoid cleaning with water for 2 weeks, use dry cloth only. B. Resurfacing and Finishing an Old Floor Per MFMA, complete resurfacing is typically performed every 8-10 years depending on many factors. This will restore luster and excellent performance of your gymnasium surface. 1. Sealer - Follow recommendations on Sections I-C for ambient conditions, I-B for old floors, and I-D2 for sanding and screening. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. Seal floor with 1 coat of 81C90 using T-bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad, or lambs wool. Let dry 2-4 hours. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in! 4!

5 section I-D4. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. 2. Game Line Paints follow procedure in II-A2 3. Topcoat follow procedure in II-A3 C. Annual Maintenance/Refinishing (Buff and Recoat) Periodic refinishing should be considered as a maintenance plan to preserve the beauty and life of your gymnasium floors. MFMA recommends gym floors to be recoated annually. 1. Buff inspect and sweep the entire floor to make sure all dust, dirt and foreign matter have been removed. Buff with used grit screen or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. 2. Game Lines if necessary, touch up game lines or markings following manufacturer s recommendation. Allow to dry 24 hours. Lightly abrade entire surface with used grit screen or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. 3. Topcoat apply 1 coat of 81C90 using T-bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad or lambs wool. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. Allow final finish coat to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before floor can be walked on. Avoid dragging any object across the floor, as it is still susceptible to scuffing. Do not replace mats before full cure. Under normal conditions, curing process takes approximately 14 days. Resume normal activity after full cure. Avoid cleaning with water for 2 weeks, use dry cloth only. III. Residential and Commercial Floors A. Newly Installed Floors 1. Unstained Floor - Follow recommendations on Sections I-A for acclimation, I-C for ambient conditions, and I-D1 for sanding and screening or I-D3 for parquet floor. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. a. Sealer Seal floor with 1 coat of topcoat of choice (81C30, 81C50, or 81C90) using T-bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad, or lambs wool. Let dry 2-4 hours. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen! 5!

6 or maroon pad. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. If using a matte to semigloss finish, ensure that product is mixed/stirred well before use to ensure uniform sheen. Avoid excessive mixing/shaking, which can cause bubbles to appear. b. Topcoat Apply 2 coats of H 2 O Premium Wood Floor Finish using T-bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad or lambs wool. Let dry 2-4 hours. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen or maroon pad in between coats. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. Always buff and tack in between coats. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. If using a matte to semi-gloss finish, ensure that product is mixed/stirred well before use to ensure uniform sheen. Avoid excessive mixing/shaking, which can cause bubbles to appear. Allow final finish coat to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before floor can be walked on. Furniture can be placed onto the floor after 72 hours being careful not to drag or slide, as it s still susceptible to scuffing. Do not replace mats before full cure. Under normal conditions, curing process takes approximately 14 days. Resume normal activity after full cure. Avoid cleaning with water for 2 weeks, use dry cloth only. 2. Stained Floors - Follow recommendations on Sections I-A for acclimation, I-C for ambient conditions, and I-D1 for sanding and screening or I-D3 for parquet floor. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. a. Stain Method I-D4 helps wood to pop grain, which will aid in stain acceptance and colour uniformity. Apply stain and allow to dry per manufacturer s recommendation. Typically, stains are allowed to dry for at least 24 hours under normal conditions. Always prepare a test panel to verify compatibility of stain and Schwartz Finish System. b. Topcoat Apply 2 coats of H 2 O Premium Wood Floor Finish using T- bar, wood block mop or roller with synthetic pad or lambs wool. Let dry 2-4 hours. Buff with used 120-grit or 150-grit screen or maroon pad in between coats. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust. Tack using method in section I-D4. Good ventilation and fresh air movement are critical for 81C90 to properly cure. Application! 6!

7 conditions different from the ambient conditions guidelines set in section I-C can result to longer cure times. If using a matte to semigloss finish, ensure that product is mixed/stirred well before use to ensure uniform sheen. Avoid excessive mixing/shaking, which can cause bubbles to appear. Allow final finish coat to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before floor can be walked on. Furniture can be placed onto the floor after 72 hours being careful not to drag or slide, as it s still susceptible to scuffing. Do not replace mats before full cure. Under normal conditions, curing process takes approximately 14 days. Resume normal activity after full cure. Avoid cleaning with water for 2 weeks, use dry cloth only. B. Refinishing Old Floors 1. Unstained Floor Follow recommendations on Sections I-A for acclimation, I-C for ambient conditions, and I-D2 for sanding and screening for old hardwood floor or I-D3 for parquet floor. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. a. Sealer follow III-A1-a b. Topcoat follow III-A1-b 2. Stained Floors - Follow recommendations on Sections I-A for acclimation, I-C for ambient conditions, and I-D2 for sanding and screening for old hardwood floor or I-D3 for parquet floor. Thoroughly sweep and vacuum to remove all sanding dust and follow I-D4 for tacking method. a. Stain follow III-A2-a b. Topcoat follow III-A2-b Sources: NWFA/NOFMA and MFMA Guidelines Schwartz Technical Data Sheet Date Created: February 21, 2014/MV!!! 7!

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