south india:tourism.qxd 10/16/2010 4:14 PM Page 46 Tourism Belur Due south 46 India & You September-October 2010

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1 Belur Due south 46 India & You September-October 2010

2 If you are interested in Indian temple architecture, head south to see some of the finest examples. Although there is a lot of competition, the consensus is that the Hoysala dynasty built the finest temples.??? takes a look. South India is replete with some of the most wonderful temple architecture dating back over 1,000 years. It was almost as if several dynasties spread all over the peninsula and over several centuries were competing with one another to leave behind the best footprints for the future. From this large choice, extending from the southern tip of India right up to Godavari River in Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh and including several great dynasties Chola, Pandya, Chera and Vijayanagara it would be a huge challenge for an architect or historian to select the best temple architecture in south India. Yet, most would agree that the Hoysala dynasty of Karnataka built some of the finest temples. The Hoysala dynasty ascended after they defeated the Chalukyas in 1187 and in time became even mightier, then rose above all to become the paramount rulers even over the Cholas and Pandyas in South India. The Hoysala dynasty originally had their capital at Halebid (about 17 kilometres from Belur) where they ruled for over 150 years. However, it was attacked by invaders a couple of times during the 14th century, reducing the once grand capital to poverty and ruins. Thus, the Hoysalas shifted their seat of power to Belur. The dynasty built over 100 grand temples, replete with exquisite art, using a new style. They designed their shrines as star-shaped structures and not the usual cubical form. The main temple at Belur in particular stands out for its beauty. Though practically all the Hoysala kings were patrons of the arts, the main builders were Vishnuvardhana, Veera Ballala I and Veera Ballala II. Vishnuvardhana built the Channakeshava temple of Belur, which is also one of the most important structures in the region. According to legend, the temple was built to commemorate his conversion from Jainism to Vaishnavism. He proclaimed his conversion by constructing a large number of temples all over his kingdom. These temples served not only as places of worship but also several other social and political functions, including courts, treasure houses and schools. The Channakeshava temple has an ornamental Gopuram or main hall that stands tall. The huge courtyard is decorated with a Garuda, the chariot of Lord Vishnu, as well as a golden horse and a temple chariot. The temple, which is star-shaped, is astonishingly ornate. Every centimetre of surface seems to have been used for carving. These friezes tell the stories of the Upanishads, Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharata. India & You September-October

3 There are also a variety of creepers and cornices with beadwork. The lowest frieze is that of a series of 650 charging elephants around the walls; no two elephants are the same. They symbolise stability and tremendous strength and are considered the weight lifters of the temple. Next come the lions, which symbolise courage while the horses above them embody speed. The creepers signify beauty. The temple is topped by 42 statues of heavenly nymphs, or Madanikas. These are exclusive to Belur and unparalleled in their beauty. Each of these statuettes is said to reflect a particular mood: The Beauty with a Mirror, The Lady with the Parrot or The Huntress. The beauty of the temple interiors leaves you speechless. The central feature, the six-foot idol of Krishna, was installed in 1117 AD. There are about 48 pillars of various sizes, shapes and designs, all bearing testimony to remarkable artistry. Inside, even in the darkness, you can see the shining pillars, each unique in its own splendour. The most popular being the filigreed Narasimha pillar in the Navaranga. It is said to have revolved on its ball bearings once. A small space has been left on it to be sculpted by anyone who has the talent. It remains untouched. The Mohini pillar also deserves a special mention as it has been carved with great care and proportion. Here again, the spotlight is forever focussed on the four Madanikas on the ceiling. The larger temple is surrounded by nearly half a dozen small ones built for other deities or in honour of Vishnuvardhan and his queens. Halebidu is home to the ornate Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples, which date back to the 12th century. However, Halebidu was sacked by the armies of Malik Kafur in the early 14th century, after which it fell into a state of disrepair. The temple enshrines Hoysaleswara and Santaleswara. Hoysaleswara is named after the builder Vishnuvardhana Hoysala and Santaleswara after his wife, Queen Santala. The sancta are built on a stellar plan, with a sukhanasi, 48 India & You September-October 2010

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5 navaranga and Nandi Mandapa. The plans for each of these temples resemble that of the Chennakesava temple. The Hoysaleswara temple with its profusion of carvings is a masterpiece. Thousands of figures appear on its walls. The basement of the temple has the most richly sculpted friezes. Horsemen charge, war elephants charge all in stone. Scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata add to the grandeur. The Kedareswara temple built by King Ballala II at Halebidu and now in ruins is considered an architectural gem. As with the Hoysaleswara temple, this temple has classic friezes and scenes from the epics. There are 180 set under floral toranas in the upper parts of the walls. Also nearby are Jain temples dedicated to Parsvanatha, Santhanatha and Adinatha. 50 India & You September-October 2010