The styles ofnaari. By Siddhali Doshi

Transcription

1 The styles ofnaari By Siddhali Doshi

2 Abstract Naari, a Hindi word that translates into the daughter of Eve. This project talks about the evolution of women s fashion since the 1960 s decade and focuses on the changing elements through the next 5 decades. The data for the research has been collected from secondary sources, such as blogs, journal articles, company websites and online libraries; along with primary data like questionnaires and observations. This data would be used to identify a recurring style that has been consistent for over 50 decades and up till contemporary times. Building on this foundation, the project will highlight on my interpretation of the style that continues to push boundaries, through photos and styling.

3 Fashion Evolution

4 Work Wear

5 Casual Wear

6 Evening Wear

7 Party Wear

8 Red Carpet

9 Dresses

10 Bottom Wear

11 Top Wear

12 Skirts

13 Prints

14 Colours

15 Details

16 Culture

17 Bohemian

18 Androgyny

19 Recurring Style- Androgyny

20 Designer Interpretations Why are you dressed like a boy? Girls don t wear tie! No, you don t hear that anymore. Androgyny which once was quite a game changer, is like a cup of our morning coffee now. We sport androgynous looks everyday, be it knowingly or not. Just the balance of masculine/feminine elements vary. Broad tie, padded shoulders, culottes, cropped trousers, thick lapels, bomber jacket, leather, boxy silhouettes, and brogues are all a few key micro-trends of Androgyny. Androgyny has been around for many more decades than 5, but the real shift came in Coco Chanel s time when her androgynous designs became a rage. Designers and influencers since then have picked up masculine elements and mixed them with female attributes. Annie Hall, YSL s Le Smoking, Calvin Klein Jeans, punk culture, Gucci, Grace Jones, Agyness Devyn and Helmut Lang were the major game changers.

21 André Courrèges French designer, André Courrèges, majorly known for the invention of miniskirts and Gogo boots, also largely shaped the Androgynous style in the 60 s. For Andre, Androgyny was all about boxy silhouettes and geometric cuts with structured tailoring. Stripes, panels and patchwork pockets were part of his garment detailing.

22 Yves Saint Laurent The famous Le Smoking tuxedo suit was invented in 1966 and since then YSL has taken a very formal approach to Androgynywith pinstripes, three piece suits, bows, ties and crisp white shirt. Although strictly tailored, the tuxedos were made in slight curves to compliment the female body.

23 Emanuel Ungaro With a very casual and an ultra-feminine take on Androgyny, Emanuel Ungaro playfully mixes prints and patterns- floral and pinstripes, polka dots, floral and stripes. The designer s signature is the balloon-ish silhouettes that embrace elements like flared pants, puffed shoulders and variations of leg of mutton sleeves.

24 Calvin Klein Changing the face of Androgyny in 1970 s was Calvin Klein with a very casual and sexy approach. Straight fit jeans paired with tees, tops and shirts became the popular power dressing styles in the era s that followed, so much so, that contemporary times depend on this look.

25 Kenzo Bringing in Japanese elements to Androgyny, Kenzo s designs are relaxed, opting for not-toofitted silhouettes. The designer plays with the traditional female drapes and the structure of suits. The Japanese influences are also evident in the fall, print and deconstructed cuts of the garments.

26 Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren s Androgyny is like men s silhouettes and patterns put into women s wear lines with refined elegance. With mostly corporate masculine-ish ensembles, the patterns are loose and straight. Few signature elements include broad shoulders, broad ties, waistcoats and striped shirts.

27 Vivienne Westwood Raw and unconventional was Vivienne Westwood s Androgynous way. Punk and grunge-rock dominated the collections while deconstruction ruled all her designs. Now, Vivienne Westwood Red Label continues to play with deconstruction, asymmetry and outlandish designs.

28 Issey Miyake Relaxed and easy silhouettes and yet ample amount of drama is Issey Miyake s way. Making east meet west, the androgynous pieces have eastern feminine elements added to boy-ish designs. The detailing in the pieces like fringed hems, patches and stiches is what makes the pieces so unique.

29 Moschino The drama and fun is enormous. The designs are incredibly humoristic. Androgyny at Moschino s comes in with a playful spirit, like everything else that is Moschino. The silhouettes are typical androgynous like three piece suits, ties and lapels only spiced up with amusing prints and mixed cultural influences.

30 Dolce & Gabbana Androgyny never had so much of balance between masculine and feminine as much as Dolce & Gabbana created, renaming power dressing as erotic power. Shirts, pants, ties, tuxedos all in lace, sheer and floral; the silhouettes being curvaceous and sexy.

31 Gucci Bold colors and lean silhouettes dominate the Gucci androgyny. From velvet, satin to brocade the textures are vast but the suits remain formal. Even though different creative heads (from Guccio Gucci to Alessandro Michele) have taken over as the decades past, the electric colors and sleek fall has been around.

32 Balmain Balmain brought a very Grunge approach to Androgyny with studded leather jackets, heavy embellishments that included metallic chains and military style detailing. Low waist pants, strong shoulders, shiny textured fabrics, all in all very bold and sexual power dressing is what the brand presented.

33 Tom Ford Leather, sequins and sheer is the highlight of Tom Ford s androgyny. The designs are certainly masculine inspirations, but ensembles remain sexy and rebellious topped with enough drama to turn it into party wear.

34 Haider Ackermann Deconstruction is the center piece chandelier of Haider Ackermann s designs. Offbeat androgynous patterns are mixed with his ravishing art of bows and drapes. The colors range from earthy tones to bright; and in spite of the twists the silhouettes are structured.

35 Christian Dior A brand like Dior, who has constantly gone through new creative head s design aesthetics, has certainly maintained a few elements well that include elegance, clean patterns, straight silhouettes and slight bit theatricals. Androgyny at Dior s comes with equal charm with mixed approach to prints, fabrics and cultures.

36 Indo-Western Androgyny Re-interpreted Androgynous fashion (Images attached)

37 Thank You