Natural Betaine in Personal Care

Transcription

1 Natural Betaine in Personal Care Novel Betaine, Industrial Processing & Personal Care DuPont Industrial Biosciences 01/2012

2 Do you know the difference between natural and synthetic betaine? Synthetic betaines are used as surfactants. Unlike synthetic betaine, natural betaine acts as an osmolyte, a true water carrier that controls water balance and protects cells against osmotic stress. Natural betaine is chemically also known as trimethylglycine or glycine betaine. INCI name: Betaine. So the functions of natural and synthetic betaine are very different. The benefits of natural betaine in personal care formulations were discovered 30 years ago and is widely used because of its unique properties and easiness to use in formulations.

3 Certificated ingredient and production Our natural betaine complies with the main natural certificates: Ecocert, Natrue, NSF, BDIH It has also: Kosher certificate REACH registration GMO free HALAL statement Naantali plant: FamiQS (European Feed additives and Premixtures Quality System) Naantali plant has Lloyd s ISO 9001, and OHSAS certificates

4 Betaine sustainable ingredient Betaine is produced from renewable raw material, sugar beet molasses and vinasses. This waste stream from sugar industry is totally utilized in our betaine production. Everything coming from our production; products, side products, waste streams; have their own utilisation channel. No waste is left.

5 Betaine product family Product range for personal care: Betafin BP 20, betaine anhydrous 99% Natural Extract AP, betaine monohydrate 99% Betafin BPPC 10, betaine anhydrous 97%, with Tri-Ca-phosphate

6 Betaine helping you to upgrade your products SKIN CARE creams, lotions, aftershaves, eye products, baby products, lightening, antiage, sensitive skin products, acne treatments, skin cleansing shower and bath products, hand sanitizers, hair removers HAIR CARE shampoos, conditioners, styling products, scalp care products, relaxers ORAL CARE toothpastes, toothgels, mouthwashes

7 High opportunities in beauty and health Multifunctional SKIN A true moisturizer, controls water balance in skin Strengthens skin barrier More firm and elastic skin Reduces chemical and mechanical irritation Anti-inflammatory effect Reduces stickiness, upgrading skin feel Page 7

8 High opportunities in beauty and health Multifunctional HAIR A true moisturizer, brings water into hair Gives more strength to hair Makes hair shiny and more elastic Reduces irritancy of surfactants Protects scalp ORAL Reduces irritancy of surfactants Gives better mouth feel Clinically proven efficacy against dry mouth symptoms

9 Benefits in formulating Reduction of stickiness Better skin feel, soft and smooth Co-solubilizer, e.g. allantoin and salicylic acid Richer and more luxurious foam ONE INGREDIENT MULTIPLE FUNCTIONS COST EFFICIENT

10 A true moisturizer control of water balance Natural betaine is an organic osmolyte that attracts water. It protects cellular macromolecules from external disturbances. To maintain cell water balance, cells can accumulate and release betaine.

11 Strengthens skin barrier effects in skin Betaine permeation across the stratum corneum is comparable to other osmolytes 3. Percutaneous permeation of osmolytes Betaine can be taken up by the keratinocytes through specific betaine transporters to restore water balance after dehydration or UV radiation 4. Betaine can improve tight junction integrity 5 and thus prevent skin water loss and penetration of harmful substances into skin. Tight junctions 1 and osmolyte transporters 2 are expressed in granular keratinocyte layer Betaine is also diffused to epidermis from dermal blood circulation. Epidermis Dermis 1 Kirchner et al Janake et al K. Tiihonen unpublished 4 Warskulat et al Putaala 4t al 2010

12 Betaine increases Tight junctions integrity in epidermal keratinocytes Betaine improves tight junction integrity and contributes to the inside-outside 60,0 50,0 * ** barrier and hydration status of the skin. Tight junctions have been implicated in part to contribute in the prevention of %Change in TEER 40,0 30,0 20,0 10,0 * * * *** *** *** ** 1h 12h 24h penetration of harmful substances, such as allergens, pollutants etc. into the skin as well as in prevention of water-loss. 0,0-10, Betaine (µm) Betaine increases the strength of tight junctions in a dose dependant manner compared to control without betaine at 24 h from application. Resource: Betaine increases tight junction integrity in epidermal keratinocytes; H. Putaala, K. Tiihonen, N. Rautonen: Danisco Finland Oy, Health & Nutrition, Sokeritehtaantie 20, Finland. And 40th Annual Meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research, Helsinki, Finland, September 8th to 10th 2010.

13 Betaine reduces chemical and mechanical irritation gentle ingredient Mechanical irritation: Betaine has a good anti-inflammatory effect. Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory effect of betaine in vivo, Dermscan Chemical irritation: Betaine protects against chemical irritation. Effect of SLS+/-betaine on oral mucosa, Electrical impedance; Turku University: Rantanen et al Cosmetics & Toiletries 115 (12), 47-54, 2000 L. Rigano et al. (picture) Betaine effectively reduces the irritating effect of SLES, Visual scoring. Zein test Irritant Slightly Irritant Non irritant 0 SLES mix SLES/DLSS mix+3,5 Betaine Betaine

14 Betaine lightens hyper-pigmentation spots based on anti-inflammatory effect Study: Dermscan,Thailand, 22 panellists After 28, 56 and 84 days the lotion with 4% betaine induced: significant lightening effect on the hyper pigmented spots significant increase in L* parameter in ITA significant decrease in b* Panellists comments: 100 % found blotches clearer 90 % found blotches also smaller Increase in L* = luminance Increase in ITA = lighter skin Decrease in b* = yellow colour Days 28 Days 56 Days % 82 % 73% 73 % 86% 77 % 68 % % of subjects with a positive affect

15 Multifunctionality in hair care A true moisturizer, brings water into hair Gives more strength to hair Makes hair shiny and more elastic Reduces irritancy of surfactants Protects scalp

16 Betaine has high water retention capability The increase of water retention into the hair treated with betaine is 40 % by average when in hair treated with glycerol it was 6%. BETAINE INCREASES THE MOISTURE CONTENT OF THE HAIR ISPE, Study 22/00/00, 2000 Page 16

17 More volume and structure in foam BETAINE GIVES RICHER AND MORE LUXURIOUS FOAM Foam texture with 5% betaine Foam texture with 0% betaine Page 17

18 Why use betaine in oral care products? Natural Well accepted Can be easily mixed with other functional components in products for oral care Reduces mucosal irritation caused by components regularly used in toothpaste like SLS Improves moisturizing properties in toothpastes Studies: Rantanen et al Institute of Dentistry, University of Turku, Finland; Söderling, Tenovuo Page 18

19 Studies behind the claims The performance of natural betaine has been tested by series of high level clinical studies in universities and institutes. General studies, 9 Skin care studies, 17 Hair care studies, 15 Oral care studies, 8

20 Why not upgrade your products with natural betaine?