GREAT LAWNS THE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY WAY

Transcription

1 GREAT LAWNS THE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY WAY

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS THE WONDERS OF GREAT LAWNS... 1 THE ART OF MOWING... 2 GRASS CLIPPINGS... 3 WATERING: THE PROPER WAY... 4 AERATION... 5 LIMING ANTACID FOR THE SOIL... 6 LAWNS NEED FOOD TOO... 7 SEAWEED A NATURAL ORGANIC FOOD FOR LAWNS... 8 GRAND OAK S NATURAL/ORGANIC FERTILIZER PROGRAMS... 9 SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS WHAT ARE THEY? COMBATING WEEDS, THE NATURAL WAY THATCH SHADED LAWNS CONTROLLING MOSS Rx FOR LAWN DISEASES INSECT PESTS VARIOUS LAWN TROUBLES... 18

3 THE WONDERS OF GREAT LAWNS Aside from the aesthetic pleasures and feelings of well-being that are created by a healthy, well-maintained, natural green lawn, there are other environmental benefits of great lawns. Great lawns:..... help to fight pollution. Lawns absorb toxins like carbon dioxide, ozone and hydrogen fluoride clean the air by catching and recycling airborne dust, pollen and spores create an atmosphere of peace and quiet by absorbing sound, similar to your living room carpet. Lawns are good noise insulators control erosion. Grass roots hold the soil together making it more stable provide natural air conditioning. On a hot summer day the temperature over a lawn can be from 10 to 14 degrees cooler than over concrete or asphalt help to keep ground water clean. A healthy lawn will intercept, absorb and purify rain water that soaks into the ground are a good investment. A great lawn can increase property value and make it more marketable. Grand Oak s mission is to work for our clients to turn their lawns into great lawns. Page 1

4 THE ART OF MOWING Proper mowing is critical to a thick, healthy, vibrant and weed resistant lawn. Grass grows at different rates during different times of the year. Your mowing schedule should be adapted to the growth of the grass. You should also vary the height of the cut periodically. Increasing the mowing height will reduce the soil temperature and increase grass density and root depth. It will also reduce the frequency of mowing. The mowing height should vary with the seasons, as follows: Spring: 2.5 Summer: 3.0 Fall: 2.5 Late Fall/Last Cut: 2.0 You should mow high during the hot summer months. Roots grow slower in sunny, hot weather. Never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass at any one time. This is known as The One-Third Rule. Keep the mower blades sharp. A dull mower blade will tear the grass blades, causing bruising that will kill the points of the grass blades and resulting in a jagged white fringe at the top of the blade. Don t mow when the grass is wet. Cutting when the grass is wet will result in clumps of wet grass that will decompose slowly and smother the lawn. Wet grass will also clog your mower, reducing the effectiveness and efficiency of the mower. Vary the mowing pattern. By changing your mowing pattern you will reduce soil compaction and avoid ruts in the lawn. Page 2

5 GRASS CLIPPINGS Grass clippings are an excellent source of free nutrients. Clippings provide up to one-third of the nitrogen needed by the lawn, and increase the humus content of the soil. Clippings do not lead to thatch build up. Research has shown that the clippings, left on a healthy lawn with a rich and active soil system, began to decompose almost immediately. Remember, the use of synthetic fertilizers will slow the decomposition of clippings. Avoid removing clippings whenever possible. There are some exceptions: Grass clippings should be removed after the first mowing in the spring, to enable the greening of the new grass, and after the last mowing in the fall, to reduce the chances of disease. When mowing very tall grass throughout the season, remove clippings whenever you cut off more than one-third of the top growth. Dense clumps of long clippings are unsightly and can inhibit growth in some parts of the lawn. Mowing at an appropriate frequency and not mowing when the lawn is wet will usually allow clippings to decompose quickly, and will recycle nitrogen back into the soil. Page 3

6 WATERING: THE PROPER WAY A healthy lawn needs only about one inch of water a week. Evenly-distributed rainfall usually provided a more than adequate supply of water. When prolonged dry spells do occur, the need for watering becomes obvious. To determine if watering is necessary, check the most drought-prone spots on the lawn. If the soil is dry and grass blades have become gray and smoky in colour instead of a healthy light green, it's time to water. If the grass does not spring back into shape when walked on (leaving foot prints), the grass is probably too dry and needs moisture. Early morning is the best time to water. By watering in the early morning, the water has time to soak down to the root system before it evaporates in the heat of the afternoon. When necessary, afternoon watering can cool surface soil temperatures, and reduce heat stress. But a lot of water is wasted through evaporation. One hour of watering for is usually enough. The soil should be soaked to a depth of at least four inches. Shallow watering will evaporate quickly, and will encourage roots to reach up towards the surface to get the water, instead of down into the soil to provide a solid grip into the soil. If the lawn is large, a watering rotation schedule, soaking different sections each day is a good idea. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and the type of soil. Watering once a week under typical weather conditions is optimum. During unusually hot and dry spells, water twice a week. Light sandy soils drain more quickly, are more affected by dry spells, and should be watered more often than heavier healthy soils. Page 4

7 AERATION Aeration is the process of removing "plugs" of soil and thatch from a lawn to increase air exchange. By sinking air channels into a lawn the compacted layer of soil just beneath the surface is broken up. Soil compaction can be caused by heavy traffic, insufficient watering, improper mowing and inadequate feeding. If the soil is compacted it will be difficult to push a screwdriver into the ground up to the handle. Compacted soil results in a less vigorous lawn. Microbial activity is inhibited. Thatch increases. The chances of disease are increased. Compaction also increases soil temperature. By aerating, oxygen and water, critical for root growth, get down into the roots. Aeration also stimulates new and faster growth of grass; improves grass response to fertilizers; reduces disease and insect problems by helping get rid of unwanted thatch; and helps to level a lawn if the plugs are shredded and raked into low spots. Most lawns should be aerated once a year in the spring or in September. September aeration along with over-seeding will stimulate strong root growth for healthier over-wintering. Lawns with heavy clay soils or exposed to heavy traffic should be aerated twice a year, in the spring and again in early fall. Aeration is one of the simplest, but most important things you can do to bring a suffocating lawn back to life, fight thatch and prevent weeds from moving in. Page 5

8 LIMING ANTACID FOR THE SOIL Soil will become acidic or "sour" when exposed to too much moisture. Synthetic fertilizers containing ammonia will leave an acidic residue. Acid in the soil inhibits the grass s ability to absorb nutrients. The levels of phosphorous, calcium and magnesium are naturally reduced. Microbial activity slows, and the decomposition of organic matter is slowed, thus suppressing the release of nitrogen. Acid in the soil prevents the grass from benefiting from even the best fertilizers. A ph test will measure soil acidity. The term ph refers to the concentration of hydrogen ions in soil. On a scale from 1 to 14, ph 7 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline and below 7 is acidic. Soil with ph values between 5.5 and 7.5 is good for most grasses, but 6.0 to 6.8 is ideal. If the ph level is below 6.0, you should apply lime. Liming supplies calcium and reduces acidity (elevates the ph level). Dolomitic lime is preferred because it provides magnesium as well as calcium. Lime also increases the microbial activity in the soil, and speeds up the decomposition of organic matter. The full benefits of liming will not become evident for a few months after that application. Lime breaks down so slowly in the soil, and should be applied in the fall. Rain and snow will wash it into the soil during the winter months, and it can start working in the spring. Liming and fertilizing should never be done at the same time. Nitrogen is lost when the two applications are applied at the same time. Wait at least two weeks between applications or apply the fertilizer earlier in the season. Page 6

9 LAWNS NEED FOOD TOO Grass, like every other living thing, needs food to survive. Minerals in the soil and decaying clippings do provide naturally occurring nutrients. However, most lawns, especially in an urban environment, should be given supplements (i.e. fertilizer). Most fertilizers contain the following elements: Nitrogen (N): Nitrogen is the most important of the elements in fertilizer. It contributes to the growth and greening of the grass blades. Because nitrogen is easily flushed from the soil, it is often in short supply in many lawns. Too much nitrogen, on the other hand, can damage a lawn by interfering with the natural biological processes required for a healthy lawn. Excessive nitrogen can jeopardize the ability of the roots to support the grass. Grass with weak roots is prone to diseases. Moderate applications of slow-release nitrogen are recommended. Potassium (K): Potassium is the second most important element in fertilizer. It toughens the grass by making it more resistant to heat, cold, drought, disease and heavy traffic. Phosphorous (P): Phosphorous helps with the growth of strong grass roots. Calcium (C): Calcium improves the absorption of nitrogen and aids in the growth of root hairs. The result is generally healthier grass. Calcium can be applied by liming. The use of dolomitic limestone will also provide magnesium (Mg), which is necessary for photosynthesis. Sulphur (S): Sulphur grass colour; stimulates new growth; and contributes to cold tolerance. Grand Oak s custom-designed fertilizers contain all of these elements plus other important nutrients. Page 7

10 SEAWEED A NATURAL ORGANIC FOOD FOR LAWNS Seaweed, also known as kelp, has been used for centuries throughout the world as a rich nonpolluting source of natural organic minerals. Seaweed contains many important nutrients, including borine, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, molybelenum and zinc. It also contains carbohydrates and protein. An added benefit of seaweed is the fact that it acts as a catalyst for the lawn s absorption of nutrients. Seaweed is an ideal fertilizer supplement. As a stimulant to microbial activity in the soil, it helps to strengthen and expand the root systems of the grass. It also breaks down slowly, and releases its nutrients year after year. As a soil conditioner, seaweed improves soil fertility and improves the soil s capacity for retaining moisture, giving the lawn added protection during dry periods. Seaweed has been shown to interrupt the reproductive cycles of some insects and appears to repel others. Studies have shown that seaweed enhances a lawn s ability to resist some fungal diseases. Because seaweed takes time to decompose, it should be applied to the soil as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Page 8

11 GRAND OAK S NATURAL/ORGANIC FERTILIZER PROGRAMS Natural organic fertilizers are water insoluble; break down slowly; and are absorbed slowly. They feed the soil at an optimal rate, so the grass can easily absorb the nutrients. They provide a uniform stimulation to the grass over a long period of time. The slow-release natural organic fertilizers used by Grand Oak are complete, balanced fertilizers that provide all of the elements listed on the previous page as well as micronutrients like magnesium, iron and zinc. These fertilizers benefit the soil as well as the lawn. They provide soil-building, protein-rich organic matter that increases the soil's fertility. Our natural organic fertilizers also contain beneficial micro-organisms that help eliminate thatch. Other benefits of the Grand Oak Fertilizer Programs: Strong Root Development o Grass roots have a higher capacity to hold nutrients. o Tolerance to cold and heat stress is enhanced. o Leaching is reduced, and nutrients are retained. Slow Top Growth Thicker Grass o Grass grows evenly, and lasts longer. o Less mowing is required. o Thick, dense grass crowds out weeds. Page 9

12 SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS WHAT ARE THEY? Many eco-friendly lawn care businesses promote their fertilizers as organic. However, often the organic fertilizers are derived from synthetic urea compounds that are made from natural gas, coal and air. Technically, they are organic, because an organic fertilizer is broadly defined as having its origins based in carbon. Some companies are taking advantage of the increased concern for the environment and are implying that their fertilizers are naturally organic. A true natural organic fertilizer is derived from plant or animal waste. They are slow-release, and nourish the soil as well as the lawn. Natural organic fertilizers promote the development of humus to keep the soil and grass healthy. Wise consumers of lawn care services will want to know the true content of the fertilizer to be used on their lawns. Synthetic fertilizers release their nutrients quickly, sending a rush of nitrogen to the lawn. This results in a quick greening of the lawn. However, it is only a superficial quick fix. The grass looks good, but it's only blade deep and will not last. The natural biological processes that convert organic matter into nutrients will be disrupted by using a lot of synthetic fertilizers. By making nitrogen immediately available to grass roots, the roots don't have to work to seek nourishment. They become lazy and don t develop naturally. Most synthetic fertilizers acidify the soil, slowing down or even stopping the natural biological processes in the soil. The results are shallow roots, excessive thatch and lower resistance to pests and diseases. Over use of synthetic fertilizers will make a lawn and the soil chemically dependent and essentially lifeless. Healthy lawns require regular renewal of the organic matter in the soil. Page 10

13 COMBATING WEEDS, THE NATURAL WAY The best defence against weeds is a healthy lawn. A thick and vigorous lawn won't leave room for weeds to get established. A properly fertilized lawn will thicken early in the spring before cool season weeds can germinate and establish themselves in the lawn. A lawn properly watered to resist stress will discourage warm season weeds. Correct mowing will encourage thick grass growth and discourage weeds. Weeds are usually symptoms of other problems in a lawn. They suggest that a lawn is in distress. Weeds will grow where grass has trouble shady-spots, in compacted soil, underfertilized areas, and areas that are too wet or too dry. Herbicides may control or kill the weeds, but they won t correct the problem(s). By correcting the problem(s), you will prevent the return of the weeds. Herbicides may kill weeds, but they also slow down the healthy, natural biological activity in the soil, thereby weakening the grass, fostering thatch and encouraging diseases. Herbicides are no substitute for good lawn care. Instead of using potentially dangerous herbicides, try the following steps to promote natural weed control: Mow High. High healthy grass will crowd out weeds. Avoid fertilizing during hot, dry periods of the summer when grass is dormant. Water infrequently, but deeply. When fertilizing, use Grand Oak s slow-release natural organic fertilizers. Page 11

14 THATCH Thatch is a layer of tough fibrous material which accumulates between the top of the soil and the base of the grass blades. It is dead grass debris that hasn't decomposed. Some thatch up to one-half inch thick is good for the lawn. It protects the roots, and helps the lawn retain moisture. More than one-half inch of thatch can create problems. It can inhibit the penetration of light, air, water and fertilizers. Reduced light forces the grass to grow faster than it should, resulting in thin and frail blades. Grass-eating pests, especially chinch bugs, can hide and flourish in thick thatch. Thick thatch also harbours diseases such as brown patch. Weeds will also invade a lawn weakened by thatch. Here's how to avoid a thatch problem: Avoid using high nitrogen synthetic fertilizers that promote fast blade growth. Set your mower to cut at 2 to 2½ to encourage deep root growth. Aerate to avoid soil compaction. Avoid using pesticides. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn will not cause thatch. Grass clippings usually start decomposing and providing nitrogen to the soil within a week. To keep thatch to a minimum follow these steps: Use Grand Oak natural organic fertilizers. Mow less frequently and keep the grass high. Make sure the ph level of the soil is between 6.0 and 6.8. At these levels thatch decomposes most rapidly. Aerate at least once a year. When thatch is very heavy, de-thatching can be done using a mechanical de-thatcher. The cutting blades on a de-thatcher are adjustable. The lower the blades are adjusted, the more thatch will be removed. Higher adjustments will remove less thatch. Over-seeding after dethatching is a good idea. Page 12

15 SHADED LAWNS A shaded area in a backyard is great for the homeowner s relaxation and enjoyment. It provides an escape from the heat of the sun. However, grass in shaded areas demands special attention. When grass competes with trees for sunlight, water and nutrients, the grass usually looses. It can become thin, spotty and overcome by moss and weeds. Shaded lawns require special. Consider the following tactics. Prune lower tree branches 10 to 15 feet from the ground, and selectively remove limbs from the upper part of the tree. This will allow more light and air flow onto the lawn. Photosynthesis requires sunlight. Longer grass blades absorb sunlight more efficiently. Mow high. Re-seed thin, spotty areas as required with shade tolerant grasses, such as fine leafed fescues and rough bluegrasses. Rough bluegrass is better suited for very wet, shaded areas. Water less frequently, but deeply. Light frequent watering will force both tree and roots to the surface. In the competition for moisture and nutrients, the tree roots will usually win. Surface tree roots can also damage your lawn mower. Shaded lawns need less nitrogen. Apply a fertilizer mixture with less nitrogen on shaded areas. It's critical that leaves be removed in autumn. Leaves left on the ground over the winter will smother the grass. Restrict foot traffic in shaded areas whenever possible. Excessive foot traffic will increase soil compaction and damage shaded lawns. Page 13

16 CONTROLLING MOSS Moss is usually a velvety-green, low growing collection of tiny plants that often covers bare spots in shaded areas. Moss is a symptom, not the cause, of an unhealthy lawn. Moss will flourish when the following conditions are present: High soil acidity Poor drainage Grass cut too short Excessive shade Compacted soil Low soil fertility Moss can be temporarily removed by vigorous raking. After the moss is removed you should re-seed the bare spots to prevent weeds from returning. To permanently remove the causes of moss growth do the following: Reduce shade by removing the lower branches of trees. Be aware, however, that moss is often inevitable at the base of large trees. Since moss prefers acidic soil, raise the ph level by liming. Improve drainage by aerating. Cutting the lawn too short will leave bare patches that can be invaded by moss. Mow High. When fertilizing, always use Grand Oak s slow-release, natural, organic fertilizer. This will help the grass grow slowly and strongly. Page 14

17 Rx FOR LAWN DISEASES A stressed lawn is vulnerable to disease. Good disease control starts with good lawn care practices. Some tips that will help you prevent lawn diseases: Avoid excessive nitrogen. Too much nitrogen from synthetic fertilizers can force grass to grow too fast, making it an easy target for some diseases. Overfeeding also discourages earthworms and other micro-organisms which help to keep the lawn healthy. Restrict fertilizing in shaded areas. Grass in shaded areas does not photosynthesize at optimum efficiency. Over-stimulating the grass with nitrogen will cause it to overproduce proteins at the expense of root reserves. Grass will become vulnerable to disease. Use complete fertilizers. Phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) are important stress-reducing nutrients for grass. Ensure that the fertilizer being applied contains these elements. Don't over-water. Too much water will weaken the grass root systems. When you do water, make sure that there is enough to penetrate the soil into the roots. Mow properly. Don t cut more than one-third of the grass height at any one time. A short lawn will become stressed and vulnerable to disease. A dull lawn mower blade will leave ragged edges that invite disease. Always make sure that your mower blades are very sharp. Don t mow when the grass is wet. Some fungi have spores that can cling to wet grass which sticks to mowers and thereby spread to other lawns. Be careful with herbicides in shaded areas. Herbicides can weaken grass under the best of conditions. In shaded areas, where most grasses struggle, the negative impact of herbicides is greater, and fungi can more easily take hold. Page 15

18 INSECT PESTS Chinch Bugs: Symptoms of infestation: Often confused with drought, the symptoms of chinch bug infestation are irregular patches of yellow grass in sunny, warm areas, particularly on southern exposures of slopes, mounds or terraces or along the southern sides of buildings. Yellowish spots are distinctly worse toward the centre. Kentucky bluegrass and fescues are affected. Once damaged by chinch bugs, the grass doesn't recover. Description: Chinch bugs thrive in the hot, dry conditions present where thatch is forming. They refer areas where the grass is beginning to turn yellow - not quite dead and not green. The adults are about 1/6 th of an inch long, black with white wings. Newly hatched nymphs are about half the size of a pin head. They are bright red with a white band across their back. Chinch bugs attack the stems of the grass and suck out the juices. They over-winter as adults in thatch and under mulches, emerging in early spring to deposit their eggs. Natural Control: Keep the lawn well moistened to a depth of about six inches for three or four weeks. Cutting back on synthetic fertilizers with high nitrogen levels will help limit chinch bug damage. You can trap chinch bugs by soaking the area of one square meter with soapy water (one ounce of dishwashing liquid in two gallons of water) and laying a large piece of flannel cloth over the treated area for 15 minutes. Pick up the flannel, and the chinch bugs should be caught on the flannel cloth. Rinse the soap off the treated area by watering it well after you take up the flannel. Sod Web Worms: Symptoms of Infestation: Irregular brown patches, one to two inches in diameter, appear among areas of healthy grass in the late spring or early summer. Symptoms are similar to chinch bug damage, but are not restricted to sunny, dry areas. Description: Adult sod web worm appear as small buff-coloured moths darting about at dusk. They drop their eggs while flying a few inches above the lawn. The eggs hatch into the caterpillars. The caterpillars feed at night, shearing blades just above the thatch level and pulling the blades into a silken tunnel in the soil where they devour the vegetation. Page 16

19 Natural Controls: The best protection against a sod web worm infestation is a healthy lawn with well-drained and aerated soil. To get rid of sod web worm soak the lawn with a solution of three tablespoons of dishwashing liquid soap to one gallon of water. The caterpillars will float to the surface. Remove and destroy them. WHITE GRUBS: Symptoms of Infestation: Irregular brown patches will appear in the late spring or early fall. These dead patches of grass can be lifted and rolled back easily. Holes, the size of golf balls, will appear overnight. The holes are created by skunks or racoons, which are a very natural control mechanism for white grubs. Moles may also feed on the grubs. Unfortunately the skunk/racoon/mole control method is usually worse than the grubs. Description: Grubs are the larvae of different kinds of beetles. They are ¼ to ¾ long, C- shaped, whitish in colour with tiny brown heads. They chew the grass roots, particularly bluegrasses and fescues. More than 5 grubs per square foot can create a serious problem. Natural Controls: Keep surface moisture to a minimum by watering deeply and infrequently, and aerate. The best defence is always a dense, healthy lawn. Grabs can easily be removed from a lawn by turning the damaged grass over, and exposing the roots for an hour or two. Birds will feast on the grubs. Add humus to the soil, and replace the damaged grass. LEATHERJACKETS (CRANE FLIES): Symptoms of Infestation: Patches of brown grass, often at the edge of a lawn and usually found in poorly drained lawns after wet periods, usually in the spring. If an area is heavily infested, a brownish paste will be seen covering the soil over the dead grass. Description: Leatherjackets are brownish gray, about one inch long and are found just below the surface of the lawn. Adult leatherjackets look similar to mosquitoes, but they don't bite. Lawns are not damaged directly by adults. However, they do lay eggs in lawns during the late summer. The grubs that hatch do the damage by feeding on the grass. The grubs will usually survive the winter, and will severely damage lawns in the spring. Natural Control: Aerating to improve drainage will help to prevent severe infestations. Page 17

20 VARIOUS LAWN TROUBLES Dry Weather: The lawn needs different pampering during hot, dry spells. Be very careful with fertilizers, especially high nitrogen fertilizers. When mowing, set the blade for a high cut 2½ to 3. Water heavily to get to the roots, but less frequently. Grass on Steep Slopes: Slopes are typically dry areas, because water runs off before soaking into the soil. Cut the grass higher on slopes than on level areas. Pamper the soil on slopes for thicker, healthier grass. Thicker grass will absorb more water and control erosion. Over-seeding should be done in the fall. Use red fescue. Protect the new growth by overlaying open-mesh burlap or cheesecloth to control erosion and evaporation. Hold the fabrics in place with short stakes. Slopes should be watered more frequently and more gently than flat areas. Brown Grass Next to the House: Too often during the original construction of a house, contractors dump waste construction materials close to the surface around the outside of the house foundation. When this happens, the soil becomes compacted and will not absorb water easily, making it difficult for grass to grow. Eaves troughs prevent rain from dripping on the ground next to the house, resulting in excessively dry areas. More frequent and heavier watering is often the answer. Gasoline / Oil Spills: If small amounts of oil or gasoline are spilled, the soil should be removed 6 to 8 inches deep and replaced. For very large, heavily soaked areas replacing the soil can be expensive. A decorative mulch can be spread over the damaged area. Mushrooms: Mushrooms often grow, after a very heavy rainfall or excessive watering, in areas with decaying matter in the soil, especially buried tree stumps, dead roots, logs, boards or thick thatch. It is possible to dig the debris out of the soil, however, the most practical approach is to mow or cut off the mushrooms as they appear. Snails and Slugs: Snails and slugs can be found in most well-mulched gardens with acidic soil. They are particularly destructive in shaded gardens during rainy spells. As they move, they leave a slimy mucus behind them. They are active during the night time hours. During the day they sleep under boards or decaying matter. They need moisture. The best approach to controlling snails and slugs is to remove plant debris and prune trees and shrubs to allow as much drying and warming sunlight into the garden area as possible. Avoid watering plants in the evening. Seaweed seems to repel slugs and snails. Wood ashes also act as a barrier to slugs. Page 18

21 Groundhogs and Moles: Moles leave ridges in the lawn as they burrow under the surface. They eat grubs, earthworms and other insects. Groundhogs holes are identified by crescentshaped mounds of soil at the hole entrance. Groundhogs eat plant roots or entire plants. Eliminating grubs will usually cause moles to move to better feeding grounds. Trapping and relocating is the most effective method of groundhog control. Doggie Damage: Dog urine can leave brown spots up to several inches in diameter. The brown spots are generally surrounded by dark green grass because of the high concentration of nitrogen in the urine. Healthy, vigorous grass can resist the effects of dog urine, so proper mowing, watering and fertilizing practices can help to minimize the negative impact of the family s favourite pet. Keeping the lawn well moistened will reduce the effects of the urine. Page 19