How To Color With Luxury Hair Color

Transcription

1 Luxury Hair Color Manual

2 Color is an Expressive Tool that will always be an essential component in a creative process. Luxury Hair Color A New Concept Luxury Hair Color gives us the opportunity to consider hair coloring from a new perspective, delivering aesthetic results while the integrity of the hair is kept in place. 2

3 Respect for nature Respect for the Hair Respect for the Environment Respect for Hairdressers The colors have been formulated with the concept of combining nature and science. The precious ingredients, White Tea and Orchid Butter, profoundly nourish and illuminate the hair. United, these ingredients form a complex that has long lasting, anti-age and antipollution properties, which constantly protect the structure of the hair, the color and shine from the aggression of smog, sun and free radicals. White Tea & Orchids 3

4 Luxury Hair Color Quality in Color The main aspects of Luxury Hair Color: The latest, extremely fashionable shades Protection of the hair and scalp Has a delicate perfume Respects the environment Practical and easy to use 100ml Tube Dilution ratio % coverage of white hair Long lasting color High lightening power 145 Shades A unique product for all coloring requirements. A revolutionary Double Action formula that can be used in conjunction with the dye revealer 2.1% as a tone on tone highlight or with the conditioning oxidative lotions 10, 20, 30 and 40 Volumes for permanent coloring. The Luxury Hair Color creams with natural protective components protect the hair structure during the chemical process resulting in evenness and durability of color Covering Power The particular emollient qualities of the ingredients and the dilution ratio make the coloring mixtures easy to apply as the cream obtained has fluid properties which are better absorbed by the hair. 100% coverage of grey hair. 4

5 Luxury Oxidising Milk It is a mild chemical combination with non-aggressive properties It has a pleasant fragrance (rose fragrance) Added protective agents which assist in scalp protection o Dye Revealer 2.1% - Intermixed with Luxury Hair Color can be used for tone on tone coloring or color balancing 10 Volume Toning Level on level coloring 20 Volume Two levels of lift Grey coverage Level on level coloring 30 Volume Three levels of lift 40 Volume Four levels of lift The Luxury Hair Color Cream and Oxidising Milk have been made biodegradable in order to protect the environment. The low ammonia content has been analysed from a toxicological point of view to guarantee the hairdressers and clients well being. Since it has been created, Luxury Hair Color has always operated according to nature and world laws. 5

6 Luxury Hair Color Pigmentating Oxidant Emulsion Available June 2008 Formulated to accentuate the application of the coloring cream, gel or bleaching powders that contain red pigmentation. It offers particular advantages such as strengthening the penetration of the colors that contain red pigments (6, 5, 46, 66, 64 etc.), into the hair stalk, with the coverage of grey hair and in enhancing the intensity, the reflexes, contrast, brilliance and shine of the color. Its initial volume and color remains unaltered even after a long periods of time, having been stabilised and formulated with high quality ingredients. It is used as a normal oxidant in every coloring treatment where a stronger red reflex is desired. Follow the instructions of use of the product with which it is to be mixed. 10 Vol. 20 Vol. 30 Vol. 40 Vol. Luxury Hair Color Anti- Yellow Oxidant Emulsion A special bleaching and super lightener (series 10 and 11), emulsion that is ideal for high lights, streaks or complete Available June 2008 bleaching and prevents yellow tones. It has been specially formulated to be used in combination with the beige, ash and all the cold shades. It is used as a normal oxidant in every coloring treatment where a stronger high lightening effect or anti-yellow is desired. Follow the instructions of use of the product with which it is to be mixed. 10 Vol. 20 Vol. 30 Vol. 40 Vol. 6

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8 Number and Nuance System Base Levels 1 Black 2 Brown 3 Dark Brown 4 Intense Brown 5 Light Brown 6 Dark Blonde 7 Blonde 8 Light Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 10 Platinum Blonde NUANCES The nuances are the dominant reflexes within the color. The warmer nuances appear lighter and brighter. The cooler nuances can appear darker as they do not reflect as much light. Cool Nuances.01 Ash Warm Nuances.003 Warm Naturals.03 Natural.32 Beige.23 Carioca.73 Tobacco.35 Cocoa.3 Gold.33 Intense Gold Red Nuances.34 Gold Copper.4 Auburn.6 Red.5 Mahogany.2 Iris Violet The first number preceding the point represents the base level. The numbers after the point represent the reflexes, the first number being the dominant reflex, for example Base Level Primary Reflex Secondary Reflex Dark Blonde 2 Parts Gold 1 Part Auburn 8

9 Eight Luxury Hair Color Corrective Agents Red Blue Yellow Orange Green Violet Ash Joker What are they? The corrective agents are shades that allow a reflex to be intensified. They must be used in combination with the selected Luxury Hair Color Color Creams in proportion of 1 to 10cm of color cream. When mixing the cream, keep in mind the total amount of grams used, for example 20g g Red + 50ml 20 Volume 9

10 Joker Is an additive cream that provides once extra level of lift when mixed equal parts with a Luxury Hair Color Cream. With it you can achieve lighter blondes, brighter reds and lighter browns. The Luxury Hair Color Joker contains 100g of product and is marked in 20 gram increments for easy measuring. The Joker can be mixed easily with all Luxury colors and can be used with all the Oxidising Milk. It is ideally used for virgin applications and highlighting when extra lift is required. To lighten gold bands;- Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Apply Luxury color formula to the new Growth Apply Luxury color formula mixed with Joker onto the gold band Process for 5 15 minutes and check for desired results 10

11 Super lightners The super lightners have been designed to achieve maximum lift and deposit in a single process. They can be used on levels 6 or 7 and are mixed with 30 or 40 volume violet oxidant emulsion for best results. MIX Part Luxury Super lighteners + 2 Parts Violet Oxidising Milk E.G. 20gm ml Violet 40 Volume Oxidising Milk TIME minutes If ½ to extra 1 level of lift is required, Joker may be added to the formula 20gm 11.1 Luxury Super lighteners + 10g Joker + 60ml 40 Volume Oxidant Emulsion If more tone is required add Ash Correctives to formula 20gm g Ash + 50ml 40 Volume Oxidant Emulsion 11

12 PLATINUM BLONDES EXTREME BLONDES 10.0 Platinum Blonde 11.0 Extreme Blonde 10.1 Platinum Ash Blonde 11.1 Extreme Ash Blonde Platinum Beige Blonde 11.2 Extreme Beige Blonde 10.3 Platinum Golden Blonde 11.3 Extreme Golden Blonde N. B. Super lighteners are not recommended to be used as toners or for grey coverage The EXTREME BLONDE SERIES is designed to be used on Coarse and hard to lighten hair Extreme Ash Blonde For level Extreme Beige Blonde For level Extreme Gold Blonde Ideal for highlighting 11.0 Extreme Blonde Ideal for highlighting The PLATINUM BLONDE is ideal for fine textured easy to lighten hair Platinum Ash Blonde For level 7 & Platinum Beige Blonde For level 7 & Platinum Blonde Ideal for highlighting 10.3 Platinum Golden Blonde Ideal for highlighting N. B. When using the platinum blonde series, slightly warmer result will be achieved. VIRGIN APPLICATIONS Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5 Apply 11.0 Extreme Blonde to mid lengths and ends starting 1cm away from the scalp Time for 15 minutes Remove excess color from hair by towel blotting Mix a new batch of color in the reflect desired and apply to the scalp and take through to the mid length and ends Time for minutes. Check for desired result. 12

13 Grey Coverage One of the most frequent color problems we face as hairdressers is the coverage of white hair. White hair no longer produces melanin which is what gives the hair its natural color. Luxury Hair Color offers the added option of three natural bases;- Intense Naturals - Natural to Cool result (numbers only e.g. 6, designed for over 50% white) Warm Naturals - Natural result (.003 series e.g ) Naturals - Natural Golden Result (.03 series e.g. 8.03) The mixture of Naturals with warm Golden Colors will provide improved coverage. White hair absorbs more warmth than natural colored pigments. The % of white will determine your color formulation. Follow this guide for great color results;- 30% White No Natural Required Up to 50% White 1 Part Luxury Hair Color Natural + 1 Part Reflect + 2 Parts Oxidant Emulsion 10ml + 10ml + 40ml Volume Oxidant Emulsion TIME minutes 13

14 Over 50% White 2 Part Luxury Hair Color Natural + 1 Part Reflect + 2 Parts Oxidant Emulsion 20ml ml ml 20 Volume Oxidant Emulsion TIME minutes Why is White Hair so difficult to Cover? Usually because of its structure, which has a tightly packed cuticle layer causing it to become tenacious and therefore resistant to color. You can identify resistant white hair due to its glassy shiny appearance. To assist you in good coverage for resistant white hair;- Change your formulation. Reducing the oxidant emulsion will assist in improving the penetration process. Mix 1 + 1½. 40g of Natural + 60ml of 20 Volumes Extend timing 45 minutes Pre-soften, helps prepare the hair to absorb more color 14

15 PRE-SOFTENING Is generally used as Spot Coloring. It prepares the hair to absorb more color. Select a Natural or Golden Shade 1 level lighter than the desired result. Mix with warm water and apply. Next apply the desired color over the top and process for 45 minutes. PRE-PIGMENTATION The pre-pigmentation process is designed to re-infuse hair with color pigments that have been previously lost, due to natural causes such as sun or from chemical treatments such as coloring, highlighting or perming of the hair. Without this step the hair could appear dull and drab and color would fade quickly from the hair. When Tinting Neutral Result For Reds Back to Level;- 8 ¾ ¼ ¾ ¼ or or or or 5.6 1) Apply Mids to Ends for 15 minutes 2) Blot excess color off or Rinse and towel dry 3) Then apply desired color Roots to ends 4) Time 20 minutes N. B. Avoid using Ash series or the Intense Naturals as the results on porous hair will be too cool. 15

16 Bleaching Powders Being able to obtain excellent bleaching tones is synonymous to high technical quality. Usually, this process is limited according to its potentialities, mainly because the fear to obtain bad results and/or to ruin the client s hair stops the hairdresser proceeding with his/her actions. With Luxury Hair Color, all these fears disappear: our bleach powders are perfectly in harmony with the hair structure. However, it is important to know the right techniques that allow the product to be used at its best. Notes: With the Compact powder and Ammonia FREE White and Blue, the dilution ratio is Once the mixture is prepared, it must be applied quickly on the hair, in that, the high lightening power of the bleach powder diminishes after a certain amount of time. Do not exaggerate in expecting that with just one bleaching process, you will obtain a high light of 5 or 6 tones. It is better to affect two bleaching processes with low peroxide volumes than applying just one bleaching process using the 40 volume peroxide. Luxury Hair Color offers four different types of bleaching opportunities: Compact Blue and White and Ammonia Free Blue and White. 5 high lightening tones are guaranteed when using the Bleach Powders Compact and Ammonia FREE White. The Compact Powder Blue has a particular ingredient that acts on the hair avoiding the unpleasant intense yellow tone which is usually seen on the 8, 9 and 10 high light tones. It offers a better powder hydration, a pleasant perfume, it does not fly in the air and is gentle on the scalp. Compact Blue Compact White Ammonia FREE Ammonia FREE Blue White 16

17 Color is a Visual Perception We know that very few substances reflect only one colour of the visible spectrum and absorb all the others. The majority of bodies reflect a combination of waves that allows us to perceive the mixed colors we generally see. Our eyes can t tell the components of a mixed color, they normally perceive it as a single color and as an even composition. COLOR PRINCIPLES Colors are subdivided into two Groups;- PRIMARY All colors are made from 3 primary colors Yellow Red Blue SECONDARY Colors are made by mixing equal parts of a primary color + = Yellow + Red = Orange + = Red + Blue = Violet + = Blue + Yellow = Green 17

18 TERTIARY Colors are made by mixing equal parts of a primary color with a secondary color + = Yellow + Orange = Yellow Orange + = Red + Orange = Red Orange + = Red + Violet = Red Violet + = Blue + Violet = Blue Violet + = Blue + Green = Blue Green + = Yellow + Green = Yellow Green 18

19 Keeping it Simple with Luxury Color The main factors you need to consider to assist you in making the correct color choice;- Texture Tenacity Porosity Fine Medium Coarse Fine hair penetrates color more easily Tenacious hair has a tightly packed cuticle layer which causes it to be resistant and sometimes difficult to color Porous hair has a damaged, exposed cuticle layer therefore causing it to penetrate color quickly. 19

20 QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF BEFORE YOU BEGIN??? What do I have to begin with? Level What is the Base Level? A) Natural or B) Colored? Lift Desired level;- A) Going Darker? or B) Lightening? How many Levels? 2 20 Vol Vol. or 4 40 Vol. What do I want to achieve? Reflect Desired Tone;- A) Accentuating warmth or B) Eliminating warmth Helps you decide what reflect to use. How do I achieve the end result? Clients Natural Desired Result Desired Reflect Formula Level 6 - Dark Blonde 8 Light Blonde Gold Copper Volume 6 Dark Blonde 5 Light Brown Mahogany Volume 7 Blonde 10 Very Light Blonde Platinum Blonde Volume 6 Dark Blonde 8 Light Blonde Cool/Neutral Volume N. B. The final color result will be a combination of the Luxury Hair Color Cream and the underlying pigment. 20

21 Luxury Hair Color Level Neutralization Chart PART 1 Natural Color Level & Number Natural Underlying Pigmentation To Neutralize Use 11 Extreme Blonde Pale Yellow Light Ash Blonde Light Ash Blonde Intense Platinum Blonde Pale Yellow Light Ash Blonde Intense Very Light Blonde Yellow Medium Ash Blonde Intense Light Blonde Gold Dark Ash Blonde 6 Intense Dark Blonde Dark Orange Light Ash Brown 5 Intense Light Brown Red Orange Medium Ash Brown 4 Intense Brown Red Dark Ash Brown Dark Ash Brown Dark Brown Red Brown Dark Ash Brown Brown Dark Red Brown Dark Ash Brown Black Dark Red Brown Luxury Hair Color Reflect 21

22 Neutralization Wheel PART 2 Color Tones which neutralize each other are known as complementary colors when mixed together in equal proportions they create a neutral result. Cool Tones Warm Tones Green Yellow Green Yellow Yellow Orange Blue Green Orange Red Blue Orange Blue Violet Red Violet Violet Red Type of Color 22

23 Temporary Coloration refers to its short duration and because it does not resist the shampooing action. This mechanism is very simple: the colored molecules settle around the hair through chemical bonds (attraction process) creating a resistant film which has strong similarities with Keratin. This process does not modify the internal structure of the hair, but brings a different high lightened quality. Some examples could be the colored lotions, mousse or shampoos. Their action helps to brighten a faded out or high lightened color, caused by external agents and deletes undesiderable reflexes on white or bleached hair. The limitation of this type of coloring, apart from its short duration, is the color is absorbed differently depending on the porosity of the hair. Semi Permanent It is a gentle self penetrating hair color which delivers a natural result. Since no ammonia is needed, mixing with a developer is required. The color is absorbed to the outer cortex layer and is slowly washed away with every shampoo. The results last approximately up to 8 shampoos. Demi Permanent It is a combination of deposit only Permanent and semi-permanent color molecules which are penetrated deeply into the cortex layer. A developer is needed to activate the pigment formation so the molecules are enlarged and locked within the hair, assuring long lasting hair color. No lightening of the natural hair color occurs, although the hair color will fade gradually it does not return to its original color. Permanent Permanent and deposit only. Permanent Hair Color is also known as oxidative hair color. A developer is needed to activate the color molecule so it is penetrated deeply into the cortex layer. Enlarged and locked in to guarantee durability of color. A permanent color works in two ways;- A) Deposits only to create a new color without altering the natural underlying pigment. B) Lightens 1 to 4 levels while depositing artificial color pigment creating an entirely new color. The end result is a combination of the natural underlying pigment and the new color chosen. 23

24 The Composition of Permanent Hair Color Three Integral Parts BASE ALKALINE AGENT COLOR MOLECULES Cream / Gel / Liquid Ammonia Dye Intermediates BASE Luxury Hair Color is a light Cream Base enriched with Beeswax and Vitamin C, protecting and conditioning the hair structure, while delivering durable color results. ALKALINE AGENT Ammonia serves two functions;- 1) To swell the hair, allowing the color molecules to be deeply penetrated into the cortex layer of the hair. 2) In combination with a developer it promotes lightening of the natural hair color. COLOR MOLECULES Color molecules are designed to penetrate into the hair cortex, once developed they are enlarged and form new color molecules which can not be released from the hair cortex, resulting in permanent hair color. 24