SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA

Transcription

1 Kit No. SIGRC67EGARF DESIGNED FOR GLOW OR ELECTRIC POWER Wingspan: 70 in. (1778 mm) Wing Area: 900 sq.in. (58.1 dm 2 ) Length: 57 in. (1447 mm) Flying Weight: lbs. ( g) Wing Loading: oz./sq.ft. (47-49 g/dm 2 ) Radio: 4 Channel with 4 Standard Servos Glow: cu.in. ( cc) 2-Stroke Engine cu.in. ( cc) 4-Stroke Engine Electric: 500 watt ( kv) Motor WARNING: Radio controlled model airplanes must be used responsibly! Just like a full-size airplane, they fly at a high rate of speed and are capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE TO: (1) Assemble this model airplane correctly according to the instructions. (2) To ground test the model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy. (3) To always fly your model in a safe approved location, away from populated areas. (4) To always fly your model in a safe manner. Your first test flights should be made with the assistance of an experienced R/C flyer. LIMIT OF LIABILITY: SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material and workmanship at the date of purchase. The actions, skills, and attention to detail of the modeler in assembling and flying this model airplane will ultimately determine its success and safety. Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith. SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA Copyright 2011, SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.

2 ARE YOU INSURED? The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimes referred to as the AMA. While AMA membership is not mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliers to join the AMA. Membership in the AMA provides you with important liability insurance protection in case your R/C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. Because of that liability protection, most R/C clubs require AMA membership before you can fly at their field. Join the AMA for the welfare of the hobby! ASSEMBLY MANUAL INTRODUCTION Welcome to the sport of Radio Control flying, and thank you for choosing the SIG KADET LT-40 EG ARF. In order for your KADET to fly as well as it was designed to, it must be properly assembled. Work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. This kit features a proven aerodynamic design, quality materials, and detailed instructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished model depends on how well YOU put it all together. The KADET LT-40 has earned a reputation as one of the very best R/C trainers in the world. Tens of thousands of newcomers have successfully learned to fly R/C with a KADET LT-40. This ARF version of the LT-40 gets you into the air quickly. It is designed to fly with either a stroke glow engine, a stroke glow engine, or a 500 watt electric motor. For more information ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS 5161 East Memorial Drive Muncie, IN Ph: (765) ADDITIONAL ITEMS YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE In addition to this kit, you will need the following items to complete your KADET LT-40 and make it flyable. RADIO SYSTEM The KADET LT-40 EG ARF requires a standard 4-channel radio system and four standard servos. CUSTOMER SERVICE SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. is committed to your success in building and flying the KADET LT-40 EG ARF. Should you encounter any problems, or find any missing or damaged parts, feel free to contact us by mail or telephone. SIG MFG. CO., INC. P.O. Box 520 Montezuma, IA Telephone: Internet: WEB SITE: mail@sigmfg.com READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY We urge you to read this assembly manual completely before assembly. Familiarize yourself with the parts and their assembly sequences. The successful assembly and flying of this airplane is your responsibility. If you deviate from these instructions, you may wind-up with problems later on. If this is your first R/C Aircraft PLEASE READ THIS! As already mentioned, the KADET LT-40 EG ARF is a perfect model for learning to fly R/C. However, it is important to understand that if you have never flown an R/C model before, you will need to find a qualified R/C flight instructor to test fly the airplane and teach you how to fly it. If this is your first radio control model airplane, DO NOT attempt to fly it by yourself without a qualified instructor. 2 POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC? The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to power your KADET LT-40 with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or an electric motor. We have flown the KADET LT-40 on a variety of both types of power systems, and we make the following recomendations based on our successful on-field experience. GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS ENGINE We recommend the following size for the KADET LT-40 EG ARF. 2-STROKE -.40 to.46 cu.in. 4-STROKE -.40 to.54 cu.in. Don t let the large size of the KADET LT-40 fool you! Due to it s huge wing area, very light wing loading and slow flight envelope, these engines will provide ideal power for training or general sport flying the KADET LT-40.

3 Whatever brand glow engine you choose, take the time to carefully break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. A good running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for the enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft. PROPELLER FOR GLOW Refer to the engine manufacturer s instructions for recommendations on proper propeller size for their engine. In our experience, most 2-stroke glow engines will fly the KADET LT-40 very nicely with a 10x6 or 11-6 prop. ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS 500 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTOR We use the Maxx Products HC Brushless Outrunner Motor. dia.: 35mm length: 54mm weight: 197g (6.9 oz.) Kv = 1000 Rm =.020 Lo = 2.6 MOTOR MOUNT We use the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Large Motor Mount. This plastic cone-shaped mount provides the exact firewall-to-propeller distance needed to fit inside the KADET LT-40 cowling, without modifications. If you go shopping for another brand mount, you will need a mount that can provide 4-1/2" from the front of the firewall to the back of the propeller (or spinner if being used) amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control) We use the Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC or the Castle Creations Phoenix 60 ESC. We typically see amp draw of 30 to 48 amps, depending on whether a 3 cell or 4 cell lipo is being used and the propeller size. NOTE: The Castle Creations ESCs that we used, as well as the many of the other ESCs on the market, have a BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) built in. BEC allows you to use the same battery pack to power both your motor and your radio system, eliminating the normal radio battery pack. As the dual purpose battery runs down in flight, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the motor and leave enough power to operate the radio while you land the model. However, the BEC feature in many ESCs does not work with 4 cell lipo battery packs - only 3 cell packs. Check the manual of your particular ESC to learn if this is true in your case. If your ESC is only rated for 3 cell operation, you have three options: 1) fly only 3 cell lipo packs; 2) install the normal radio battery pack to run the radio full time; or 3) install an aftermarket BEC that is rated for 3 or 4 cells. We wanted to be able to fly both 3 cell and 4 cell packs interchangeably, so we elected to use the normal radio battery pack, since we already had it and the little bit of extra weight is no problem for the KADET LT-40. We then disabled the BEC feature of our Castle ESC, since we no longer needed BEC. Disabling the BEC allows the speed control to be used with both 3 cell and 4 cell packs without problems. A common way to disable BEC in many ESCs is to remove or clip the middle wire from the plug on the ESC that goes into the radio receiver - see your ESC manual for more guidance. 3 or 4 cell 4500mAh LITHIUM-POLYMER BATTERY PACK With the Maxx Products HC motor we use 3 cell (3S1P) 4500mAh or 4 cell (4S1P) 4500mAh Li-po packs. A 3 cell pack (11.1 volts) provides flight performance similar to a.40 glow 3 engine. A 4 cell pack (14.8 volts) provides flight performance similar to a.46 glow engine. We find that 4500mAh lipo packs provide between 10 to 15 minutes of flight time, depending on propeller selection and other factors (quality of pack, throttle management, outside temperature, etc.). CAUTION: You must match your propeller size to the cell count of your lipo pack, to avoid drawing too many amps and damaging your ESC or motor. PROPELLER FOR ELECTRIC With a 3-cell (3S1P) 11.1v lipo pack, we recommend an APC 11x7E, APC 11x8E, or APC 12x6E propeller for the Maxx Products HC motor. All three sizes delivered good performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke.40 glow engine. For a starting prop we recommend the APC 11x7E. Other brand propellers of same size and similar design can also be used. NOTE: Your results may vary due to other factors - the specs of your individual motor and battery pack, etc. You may need to experiment with different props to find your best combination. With a 4-cell (4S1P) 14.8v lipo pack, we recommend an APC 10x6E, APC 10x7E, or APC 11x5.5E propeller for the Maxx Products HC motor.. All three sizes delivered good performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke.46 glow engine. For a starting prop we recommend the APC 10x6E. Other brand propellers of same size and similar design can also be used. Hi-Maxx "COMBO 40" Complete System Maxx Products, the manufacturer of the motor that we used in this manual, markets a "Combo 40" electric motor system. The Maxx "Combo 40" package consists of (1) Hi-Maxx HC Brushless Outrunner Motor; (1) Prop Adapter Assembly; (1) Castle Creations 50 Amp Speed Control (ESC); and (1) APC 12-6E Propeller. It's a good system for the KADET LT-40. Maxx Products, Inc. 815 Oakwood Rd. Lake Zurich, IL Web: Ph: REQUIRED TOOLS & BUILDING SUPPLIES For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and materials available: A selection of glues - SIG Thin & Medium CA Glue, CA Accelerator, CA Debonder, SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy Assorted Screwdrivers Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose Diagonal Wire Cutters Small Allen Wrench Assortment Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits Hobby Knife with sharp #11 Blades Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits Dremel Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding Bits Scissors Sandpaper (such as 80 or 100 grit) Heat Iron & Trim Seal Tool T-Pins (such as SIG #SH-307) Masking Tape Soft Pencil or Fine Point Felt Tip Pen Ruler and/or Tape Measure 90 O Triangle (such as SIG #TR-036 Metal Triangle) Alcohol or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up 1/2 Thick Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIG #RF-240) - Used to protect your radio receiver and battery from vibration. Also used as packing around radio components and fuel tank to keep them from shifting around in flight.

4 Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams. If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at Note: Not all parts are shown at same scale. 4

5 Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams. If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit. Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to inventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes ( ) provided in front of each part description. (1) Fuselage & Hatch (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged (1) Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator, hinged (1) Vertical Fin & Rudder, hinged (1) Cowling with (4) M2.6 x 10mm Mounting Screws Main Landing Gear (2) 4.5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires (2) 3" Dia. Main Wheels (2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps (4) M3 x 10mm Screws (2) 4.5mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacers (2) 4.5mm I.D. Wheel Collars with Set Screws Nose Gear Assembly (1) 4mm dia. Nose Gear Wire (1) 2-3/4" Dia. Nose Wheel (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bearing (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw (4) M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts (4) M3 Flat Washers (1) 4mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacer (1) 4mm I.D. Wheel Collar with Set Screw Spinner Assembly (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Cone (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Backplate (1) Prop Adapter Rings (2) T3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Mounting Screws Control Horns (2) Nylon Control Horns; for elev(1) and rud(1) (2) Nylon Control Horn Retainer; for elev(1); rud(1) (4) M2 x 12mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns Pushrods (2) 1/16 dia. x 16 Straight Music Wire; for throttle & nose gear pushrods (2) 1/8 O.D. x 38 Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubes; for elevator & rudder pushrods (6) 2-56 x 10 Threaded Rods; for ail(2); elev(2); rud(2) 5

6 (6) Nylon R/C Links; for ail(2); rud(2); elev(2) (2) Brass Pushrod Connector; for thro(1); nose gear(1) (2) Pushrod Connector Retainer; for thro(1); nose gear(1) (2) Pushrod Connector Bolt; for thro(1); nose gear(1) Miscellaneous (2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Tray (1) Decal Sheet Fuel Tank for Glow Engine (1) Fuel Tank Body - 260cc (8.8 oz.) (1) Rubber Stopper (1) Metal Front Clamp (1) Metal Rear Clamp (1) M3 x 18mm Bolt (1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up (1) Fuel Tubing, inside tank (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 60mm (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 50mm (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 40mm Engine Mounts for Glow Engine (1) Right Engine Mount (1) Left Engine Mount (4) M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts, for mounts-to-firewall (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers, for mounts-to-firewall (4) 4-40 x 1 Mounting Bolts; for engine-to-mounts (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine-to-mounts (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine-to-mounts wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the process. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type heat iron. CAUTION: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going over them with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should take your time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron, as we will describe. We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process. Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t-shirt, to prevent scratching the covering as you work. After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the correct temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result! The iron should be set to about 220 O F O F (104 O C O C) as measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer. If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting. Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over over solid wood, such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron and repeat the test. If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test. Keep adjusting until you zero in on the correct temperature. Find the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away. Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is securely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes in contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is worth the effort. After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn the temperature of the iron up to approximatelly 300 O F O F (149 O C O C). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the covering material. COVERING MATERIAL Your KADET LT-40 ARF is covered with ORACOVER, a premium quality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger- 9 as UltraCote. Colors ORACOVER #10 White (UltraCote #HANU870) and ORACOVER #71 Black (UltraCote #HANU874) and ORACOVER #23 Red (UltraCote #HANU866) If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby dealer or online from Hanger-9. How To Tighten Loose Covering After you open your KADET LT-40 and take all the covered parts out of their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle. This is not unusual and is no cause for alarm. Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world which has relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the open areas of the model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering is tight with no wrinkles. If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to ventilate the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat is applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air escape and the covering to shrink properly. Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-type heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material. Recommended Temperatures: To adhere the covering O F O F (104 O C O C) To shrink the covering O F O F (149 O C O C) 6

7 NOTE: ANY REFERENCE TO RIGHT OR LEFT IN THIS MANUAL REFERS TO YOUR RIGHT OR LEFT AS IF YOU WERE SEATED IN THE COCKPIT OF THE AIRPLANE. WING ASSEMBLY Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Mount NOTE: The next 5 Steps involve gluing the Right and Left Wing Panels permanently together. You should be prepared to accomplish these 5 Steps in one session, without stopping for anything. In fact, it's best if you read through these 4 Steps before beginning, so that you will have a good understanding of the sequence we are about to start. 4) Apply a liberal amount of Epoxy Glue to the end ribs of BOTH Wing Panels and to the exposed end of the Wing Joiner. 5) Slide the other Wing Panel onto the Wing Joiners and up tight against the first panel. Firmly press the Wing Panels together and wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Make sure the two Wing Panels are accurately aligned with each other, and then use tape( low tack) to hold them in place while the Epoxy Glue dries. Set the wing aside and let it dry completely (overnight if possible) before proceeding. NOTE: If possible, get someone to help you with this step. An extra set of hands makes the job much easier. While one person holds the two Wing Panels firmly together in correct alignment, the other person can clean off the excess glue and tape the Wing Panels together. 1) Note that the Wing Panels in your kit come with the ailerons permanently hinged in place. Give each aileron a gentle pull to the rear to double check that they are securely glued. 2) Mix up an ample amount of slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Use a wire, stick, or small brush to thoroughly coat the inside of the wing joiner slot in the end of the Wing Panels with Epoxy. Be sure to apply glue inside the slots of BOTH the Left and Right Wing Panels. NOTE: It s very important that you use plenty of Epoxy Glue during these steps. The strength of your wing joint depends on it! Use enough glue so that when you put the pieces together, excess glue oozes out of the joints. You can always clean up the excess epoxy glue with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol. 6) After the Epoxy Glue has FULLY dried, you can remove the tape. Peel the tape off slowly, back over the top of itself, to avoid loosening the covering material. 7) Locate the plywood Aileron Servo Mount. This piece goes on the bottom of the wing to reinforce the cutout where the aileron servo will be mounted. Hold the mount in place, lining up the inner edges with the cutout in the wing. Then carefully mark the wing surface around the outside of the mount with a felt-tip pen. 3) Coat one half of the hardwood Wing Joiner with Epoxy Glue and slide it into one Wing Panel. NOTE: You should have enough glue in the slot and on the Wing Joiner that the excess glue oozes out of the slot when you push the Wing Joiner in. 8) Next use a modeling knife to carefully cut through the plastic wing covering along the lines you made in the previous step. Then peel the covering away where the mount will be glued. CAUTION: DO NOT PRESS HARD ENOUGH TO CUT INTO THE BALSA WING SHEETING - CUT ONLY THROUGH THE PLASTIC COVERING! THE KEY IS TO USE A GOOD SHARP BLADE AND GLIDE IT ALONG THE LINES WITHOUT HAVING TO PUSH THE BLADE DOWN. 7

8 9) Epoxy Glue the plywood Aileron Servo Mount in place. Use enough glue to fill the gaps along the sides of the mount. 10) This step is OPTIONAL! Some R/Cers like to cover the wing center joint with 1/2" wide plastic trim tape, or a 1/2" wide strip of covering material "trim sheet", to give the wing a more finished appearance. If you want to do this on your Kadet, your local hobby shop should have a selection of trim sheet or wide striping tape in various colors to do this. 4) Apply the Windshield decal next. This piece is small enough that you can apply it dry, without using any soapy water. Note in the picture that it should go on flush with the bottom of the plywood windshield. Also notice that there is approximately 1/4" overhang on each side of the front decal. Wrap this overhang down onto the sides of the fuselage. The wing is now basically done. Set it aside until you get to the section of the book titled AILERON PUSHRODS on page 21. APPLY THE DECALS It is much easier to apply all the decals now, before the major parts of the airplane are assembled. 1) Cut the decals for the Right Fin and the Left Fin out of the decal sheet using a sharp modeling knife and straight edge. Trim as close to the image as possible. NOTE: Keep the black and red decals for each side of the Fin together as one unit. In other words, do not seperate the black and red parts that go on the same side of the Fin. Apply them as one decal! There is no need to apply them as two seperate decals - apply them as one unit to save time. 2) Putting large decals (like these for the Fin) on a model often leaves unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath the decal. Here's a method that eliminates the problem entirely! First spray the surface of the Fin where the decal will be placed with water mixed with a small amount of dish soap (you can also use "SIG Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner", "Fantastic ", "Windex ", or "409 " type cleaners). Then peel the paper backing sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the sticky side double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wet surface of the model. The soapy water solution will keep the decal from actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shift it around into exact position. Once you have it in position, use a piece of stiff cardboard (or sheet balsa, thin plywood, or a SIG SH678 Epoxy Spreader) to squeegee the excess soapy water out from under the decal. Mop up the water with a paper towel. Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the soapy water out from under the decal as possible. 3) Turn the Fin over and apply the decal to the other side in the same manner. 5) Apply all 3 Left Side Windows in one piece. Do not cut them apart! Applying them as a single piece will allow you to keep them lined up with each other. Use the soapy water method outlined in Step 2 to allow you to slide the Side Windows into perfect alignment with the Windshield. Once you have them properly positioned, squeegee the soapy water from underneath the Side Windows. Then apply the Right Side Windows in the same manner you did the Left Side Windows. 6) Cut out and apply the decals to the top of the wing. Apply wet. 7) Allow all the decals to dry overnight! When completely dry, wash off any soap smears with a clean wet rag. 8

9 FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY 1) Draw a center-line on the area of the Fuselage where the Stabilizer will be mounted. If your Fuselage has any covering material from the sides overlapping onto the Stabilizer mounting area, trim it off at this time. 5) Remove the Stabilizer from the Fuselage and carefully strip away the covering material on the bottom, between the two lines, where the Stabilizer will be glued to the Fuselage. CUT THE COVERING LIGHTLY ALONG THE LINES. AVOID CUTTING THE WOOD UNDERNEATH THE COVERING MATERIAL! 2) Use a 90 degree triangle as shown to draw a center-line down the middle of the top of the Stabilizer. 3) Set the Stabilizer in place on the Fuselage. Line up the centerline on the Stabilizer with the center-line on the Fuselage. Use pins to secure the Stabilizer in position. Push the pins completely thru the Stabilizer and into the Fuselage. 6) It's best to glue the Stabilizer permanently onto the Fuselage with slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Mix the Epoxy and spread a generous coat evenly on the area of the Fuselage where the Stabilizer goes. Remount the Stabilizer onto the Fuselage, using the edges of the cutaway covering on the bottom to get the Stabilizer back into correct alignment on the Fuselage. Press the Stabilizer down firmly and pin it in correct position. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue that oozes out of the joint. Let this joint dry completely before proceeding. 7) Trial fit the Fin/Rudder assembly on the fuselage, sticking the leading edge of the Fin thru the hole in the top of the Fuselage. Carefully line up the trailing edge of the Fin with the center-line on the top of the Stabilizer. Draw along both sides of the Fin, marking its location on the top of the Fuselage and Stabilizer. Take the Fin/Rudder assembly off the Fuselage and strip away the covering material inside the lines. 4) Lift the rear of the Fuselage up, without jarring the Stabilizer loose, enough to enable you to mark the location of both Fuselage sides on the bottom of the Stabilizer. 8) Mix up a small batch of slow-drying Epoxy Glue and coat the area where the Fin will go. Remount the Fin onto the Fuselage, line it up as before, and pin it firmly in position until the glue dries. Use a 90 degree triangle to insure that the Fin dries perpendicular to the Stabilizer. 9

10 LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (2) 4.5mm formed Main Landing Gear Wires (2) 3 dia. Main Wheels (2) 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacers (2) 4.5mm Wheel Collars (2) Nylon Landing Gear Straps (4) M3 x 10mm Screws (1) 4mm formed Nose Gear Wire (1) 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel (1) 4mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer (1) 4mm Wheel Collar (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw (4) M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts (4) M3 Flat Washers 5) Install a Plastic Wheel Spacer, the 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel and a 4mm Wheel Collar on the axle of the Nose Gear Wire. Make sure the wheel turns freely. 1) Locate the two pre-bent Main Gear Wires and the pre-bent Nose Gear Wire. Inspect the ends of all the wires for burrs. If any are found, use a file or sandpaper to remove them. 2) Press a 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer onto the axle portion of the one of the Main Gear Wires. Slide it all the way along the axle, and up tight against the bend in the wire. Then install a 3" dia. Main Wheel and a 4.5mm id Wheel Collar on the axle as shown. Tighten the wheel collar Set Screw firmly. Make sure the wheel turns freely after you tighten the wheel collar. Repeat the process to make a second Main Gear Wire assembly. 6) Bolt the nylon Nose Gear Bearing in place on the front of the firewall using the four M3 x 14mm Bolts and M3 Flat Metal Washers provided. Note that M3 Blind Nuts are pre-mounted in the back of the firewall for the Nose Gear Bearing. Use thread locking compound on the bolts to keep them securely in place. 7) Hold the Steering Arm in position in the Nose Gear Bearing while you insert the top end of the Nose Gear Wire up through the holes in the bearing and steering arm. Push the wire in until the top of the wire is flush with the top of the nose gear bearing. Snug up the set screw in the Steering Arm just enough to get a slight grip on the Nose Gear Wire (keep it loose enough that you can adjust the steering arm position in the next step). 3) Fit the Main Gear Wires into the grooved block in the bottom of the Fuselage. Holes have been pre-drilled in the block to receive the short upper arm of the gear wires. Push the wires down tight into the groove. NOTE: If the wire doesn't want to fit completely down into the groove of the landing gear block, it may be necessary to remove a little material from the inside edge of the hole to allow for the radius of the bend in the wire. Do this with a round file or modeling knife. 4) Place the two nylon Landing Gear Straps over the Main Gear Wires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four 1/16" pilot holes for the screws. Use four M3 x 10mm Screws to mount the straps. 10

11 The installation for either a 2-stroke or 4-stroke glow engine is basically the same. The only differences being in the throttle arm locations on the carburetors and the muffler locations. The factoryinstalled throttle pushrod sleeve in the fuselage has been placed to exit the firewall on the right side of the fuselage. Note that it is not yet glued in place and is removable. This positioning is typical for the throttle arm location on most 2-stroke engines. If you plan to use a 4-stroke engine, it may be necessary to relocate the throttle pushrod sleeve over to the left side of the firewall to line-up with the 4-stroke engine s throttle arm. This is easy to do, using a long 1/4" dia. drill bit to drill a new hole (aligned with the engine s throttle arm) through the firewall and through the second fuel tank support former behind it. 8) Align the Nose Wheel so it points straight ahead. Adjust the Steering Arm position on the Nose Gear Wire so that the outer hole in the arm is about 3/4" away from the front of the firewall when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Then tighten the set screw in the Steering Arm. NOTE: This slightly forward angle to the Steering Arm is necessary to allow the steering arm to turn to the left without hitting the front of the firewall. Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Right Glass-Filled Engine Mount (1) Left Glass-Filled Engine Mount (4) M3 x 20mm Phillips-Head Bolts; for mounts (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers; for mounts (4) 4-40 x 1 Slotted Bolts; for engine (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine (1) 2 Spinner Assembly, black (1) 260cc (8.8 oz) Fuel Tank Assembly (1) Cowling (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied): (1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller (1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type) ENGINE AND MOUNTS The engine shown in these instructions, is a typical.46 size 2-stroke engine. The engine is mounted in the upright position, providing easy access for field adjustments. 1) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall with four M3 x 20mm mounting bolts and four M3 flat metal washers. Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for the moment - do not tighten them until the next step. 9) Use a marker pen to mark the location of the set screw on the nose gear wire. Remove the wire and file or grind a flat spot in the wire for the set screw to rest in. Then reassemble the parts, tightening the set screw securely. The flat spot will help insure that your nose gear steering doesn t slip. 2) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine mounts. If the beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit your engine, slide the mounts closer together. If they are already too close together, slide them apart. Notice that the holes in the mounts for the bolts are slotted to allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine. After you get the mounts in correct position, tighten all four mounting bolts, securing the engine mounts on the firewall. GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION Skip this section if you are planning to use an electric motor. Detailed instructions on installing an electric power system begin on page 16. 3) Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until the front of the engine's thrust washer is 4-1/2" from the front of the firewall. 11

12 Adjust as many times as necessary to make sure that the Propeller comes out the center of the openings. THE PROPELLER MUST NOT TOUCH THE SPINNER! When you have it in the right position, tighten the Prop Nut. 4) Install the Spinner to the Backplate using the two small Screws provided. 4) Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing exactly straight forward, and then mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the beams of the Engine Mounts. 5) Unbolt the engine mounts from the firewall and drill holes thru the beams of the mounts at each location. We recommend that you secure the engine mounts in a vise while you drill the holes. Also, if at all possible, use a drill press to drill these holes. You can drill them by hand, but if you have access to a drill press the job will be much easier and the holes will be straighter. NOTE: We have provided 4-40 x 1" Mounting Bolts and 4-40 Aircraft Lock Nuts and Washers for mounting your engine to the Engine Mounts. Unfortunately, engines in the.40 to.46 size range are right at the break point between using 4-40 size or 6-32 size mounting bolts. In other words, some engines have small holes in their case for 4-40 bolts only, while other engines have holes large enough to accommodate 6-32 bolts. If your engine allows 6-32 bolts, and you want to use that size, you will have to obtain those bolts and nuts from your local hobby shop. Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 Bolts provided. Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 Mounting Bolts. FUEL TANK Notice in the following photos that the correct orientation of the fuel tank in the airplane is on its flat side with the neck towards the right side of the airplane. 1) Open the bag containing the fuel tank parts. Inside the tank is a piece of flexible fuel tubing. Reach inside with a tweezers or needle nose pliers to get a hold of the fuel tubing and pull it out. CAUTION: Don t squeeze too hard and put a hole in the tubing! Now shake the tank a few times to make sure there is no dirt or plastic shavings inside! 6) When you're finished drilling the holes, bolt the engine to the Engine Mounts. Then bolt the entire engine/engine mount assembly back onto the front of the Firewall. Tighten all bolts and nuts securely. SPINNER 1) Choose the correct diameter Prop Shaft Adapter ring to fit your engine's crankshaft. Press the adapter ring into the hole in the middle of the spinner Backplate. 2) Slide the spinner Backplate on to the engine s crankshaft, followed by your Propeller, then the Prop Washer, and finally the Prop Nut. Tighten the Prop Nut just finger tight for now. 3) Slip the Spinner in place and check to see if the Propeller clears the openings. If necessary, loosen the Prop Nut, reposition the Propeller, re-tighten the Prop Nut, and then check again. 2) Take a close look at the rubber stopper. Notice that it has two open holes and one closed one. We will only be using the two open holes. Leave the third hole closed. Assemble the front metal clamp, the rubber stopper, and the rear metal clamp with the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the parts just touch each other - do not tighten at this time. Rotate the front and rear metal clamps until their holes line up with the two open holes in the rubber stopper. You should be able to see daylight completely through the two holes. 3) Use the shortest of the three supplied aluminum tubes for the tank fuel feed tube. Use the longest of the supplied tubes for the tank vent tube. Carefully poke the aluminum tubes through the two open holes in the stopper assembly. Keep pushing the tubes in until 3/8" of tube sticks out in front of the stopper. PLAN AHEAD: The two aluminum tubes should end up horizontally opposed to each other at the top of the stopper. The short fuel feed tube should be on the left side, and the long vent tube on the right. 12

13 4) Put the plain end of a #47 drill bit about 1/4" inside the back end of the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage, slowly bend the back end of the vent tube upwards at least 45 O. Try not to put a kink in the aluminum tube. 8) Trial fit the tank in place inside the fuselage to familiarize yourself with how it mounts. The neck of the tank should fit through the hole in the firewall. 9) Apply a generous bead of silicone sealer around the neck of the tank (regular household bathroom type silicone sealer, available at most hardware stores, is recommended). Slide the tank in place in the fuselage. Push the tank firmly up against the back side of the firewall, compressing the silicone sealer to make a good seal. If excess silicone sealer oozes out onto the front of the firewall, clean it off. Test fit the completed stopper assembly into the neck of the fuel tank. Rotate the stopper so the aluminum tubes are horizontal at the top of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a strong light and look inside to see if the vent tube is close to the top of the tank. If not, adjust the bend in the vent tube as needed. 5) Cut the piece of silicone fuel tubing that came with the tank to 3-1/2 long. Slide one end of the fuel tubing onto the back end of the aluminum fuel feed tube. Attach the metal clunk pickup on the other end of the fuel tubing. 10) Cut a piece of scrap wood 3-1/4 long (can be stick or sheet, balsa or plywood) to use as a rear tank brace. Reach in through the servo area and wedge the brace between the fuselage sides, right up tight against the back end of the tank. Spread some Slow CA glue on the ends of the brace to glue it to the fuselage sides. (HINT: Put some glue on the end of a long stick or nail, then reach in and dab the glue on the ends of the brace.) This brace will insure that the tank cannot shift backwards in flight. 6) Test fit the stopper back in the tank to make sure the clunk can swing freely freely from side-to-side, whether the tank is right side up or upside down, without hitting the back of the tank. If it hits the back end of the tank, take the stopper back out, shorten the length of the silicone tubing a little, and then test again. Shorten the fuel tubing a small amount at a time until the clunk can swing freely inside the tank. 7) When everything is right, tighten the screw in the stopper cap until the cap is snug in the neck of the tank. Then test the fuel tank for leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with water. Slip a piece of fuel line tubing onto the tank vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water, holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air into the other end of the fuel tubing and watch for air bubbles coming around the cap of the tank. If it's leaking, tighten the screw in the cap a little at a time until the leaking stops. 11) Cut strips of 1/2 thick soft foam rubber (not supplied) to fit between the sides of the fuel tank and the fuselage sides - see first photo on next page. This is to keep the tank from shifting sideways in flight. Cut another strip of 1/2 thick soft foam rubber to lay on top of the tank, filling the space between the tank and the Hatch. Then screw the Hatch in place. 12) Cut two 6" lengths of silicone fuel tubing, and install them on the two aluminum fuel tubes coming out of the firewall. Attach the fuel feed line to the engine's carburetor and the vent line to the pressure fitting on the muffler. NOTE: Trim off any excess length 13

14 of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines should be kept as short as possible for best fuel draw, but not so short that there is danger of them coming off in flight. Leave a little slack in the lines. quickly made by measuring the diameter of the engine head and the overall length of the engine. It will serve as an undersize starting point for removal of material. 2) Cut or grind out the material inside the lines of your pattern. Be aware that there are no hard and fast rules for the perfect shape for the cutout in the cowling. The best method is to sneak up on final shape, trial fitting the cowling over the engine and adjusting the cutout as often as necessary. Make sure you achieve access to the engine s needle valve and to the fuel line tubing at the carb. NOTE: A Dremel tool, or similar power tool, with a coarse grit sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use for removing the cowling material quickly, easily and accurately. However, if you do not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the opening with a drill and a hobby knife. First drill a series of almost touching holes inside the pattern lines (1/8 dia. works well). Then use the knife to cut through the connecting material between each hole. Smooth the edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block. 3) When satisfied with the opening, place the cowling over the engine and in correct position on the front of the fuselage. Mount the propeller and spinner on the engine. Move the cowling into correct position on the fuselage, leaving a 3/32 to 1/8 gap between the front of the cowling and the back of the spinner, for clearance. Tape the cowling in exact position using a low-tack tape. WHEN FILLING THE FUEL TANK To fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the fuel lines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure fitting. Pump the fuel into the tank through the fuel feed line (carb line). When the tank is full, fuel will begin to run out the vent line (muffler line). Stop pumping when you see the fuel start to come out the vent line! Reconnect the fuel lines and you are ready to start the engine. COWLING 1) An opening needs to be made in the top of the cowling to clear the engine head and allow access to the carburetor. Begin by marking a centerline on the top of the cowl, as shown. 4) Near the rear of the cowling are four small pre-drilled holes - two on each side of the airplane. These holes are for the cowl mounting screws. With the cowling in exact position, drill a 1/16" dia. pilot hole in the fuselage side, through any one of the cowl mounting holes. Install an M2.6 x 10mm screw into the pilot hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowling on the fuselage to make sure nothing has shifted, and make any necessary adjustments to the tape. Then on the opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" pilot hole and install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining two cowl mounting holes. Then remove the tape. Then take width and length measurements off your engine and transfer them to the top of the cowl, using the centerline as the base reference point. The simple pattern shown in the photo was 14

15 THROTTLE PUSHROD Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage) (1) 1/16 dia. x 16 Straight Music Wire Pushrod (1) Brass Pushrod Connector (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer (1) 4-40 x 1/8 Pushrod Connector Bolt 7) Slide the unbent end of the throttle pushrod wire inside the plastic outer sleeve as you re-bolt your engine/engine mounts to the firewall. When the pushrod wire gets to the throttle servo, slide the end of the wire inside the pushrod connector. 1) The first step is to install your throttle servo in the fuselage, using the rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with the servo. Mount the servo in the front opening in the servo tray, lengthwise across the fuselage. The servo arm should be towards the right side of the airplane, as shown in the following pictures. 2) The plastic outer sleeve for the throttle pushrod is already installed in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so that approximately 1-1/2 sticks out in front of the firewall. Then permanently glue the sleeve to the firewall and to the fuselage former that is in front of the servos. 3) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the outer hole of the throttle servo arm (see diagram of Pushrod Connector on page 4). NOTE: It may be necessary to open up the hole in the servo arm with a 1/16 drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely. 4) A piece of straight Music Wire 1/16 dia. x 16 long is provided to make the throttle pushrod. Put a Z-BEND in one end of the pushrod (refer to page for instructions on making Z-BENDS in music wire). This will be the end of the pushrod that hooks up to the engine s throttle. 8) Hold the engine s throttle arm in high throttle position, put the throttle servo in high throttle position, and then tighten the set screw in the pushrod connector at the servo. 5) Just back from that "Z-BEND" you need to put 2 more bends in this wire to move the "Z-BEND" over in line with the engine's throttle arm. If you are using a typical size 2-stroke engine, with a standard carburetor, bend your wire to match the pattern shown here. It should work in most cases! NOTE: Most 2-stroke R/C engine carburetors will provide high throttle when the throttle arm is pushed fully forward. Check your carburetor and confirm the correct direction of travel for "low" and "high" throttle movement. NOTE: This offset in the throttle pushrod wire may need to be slightly different depending upon the exact location of your engine's carburetor control arm. Some arms may be a little closer to the fuselage side, while some may be closer to the engine's center-line. For most 2-stroke R/C engines, it will simply be a matter of increasing or decreasing the angle of these two bends to change the total distance of the offset in the wire. If you need to change the bends, change both bends the same amount, always keeping the two legs of the wire parallel to each other. 6) Temporarily unbolt the engine/engine mounts from the firewall so that you can insert the "Z-BEND" into the bottom hole of the engine's throttle arm. NOTE: You may be need to enlarge the hole in the throttle arm with a 1/16 bit to accept the Z-BEND. 9) Plug the throttle servo into your fully charged radio system (see radio owner s manual) so you can test the operation of the throttle pushrod. If your throttle servo is moving in the wrong direction, use the transmitter s servo reversing feature to change it. Make adjustments to the throttle pushrod setup until you can achieve these results from movement of the transmitter throttle stick and throttle trim lever: STICK FORWARD TRIM FORWARD HIGH SPEED STICK BACK TRIM FORWARD GOOD IDLE STICK BACK TRIM BACK KILL ENGINE NOTE: Adjusting carburetor linkage can be a little tricky! If you have binding, check for an incorrect amount of offset (bend) in the 15

16 pushrod wire at the carburetor. If necessary, re-bend the wire to eliminate the bind. If the throttle servo is binding or stalling because it has too much travel compared to the carburetor travel, try using your transmitter s End Point Adjustment feature to dial in the proper amount of travel. If that doesn t work, you may need to move the pushrod connectors to different holes in the servo or carburetor arms. You may also need to loosen the pushrod connectors to re-adjust the overall pushrod length. All or some of these things may need to be adjusted to get the carburetor working properly. The installation of your glow engine is now completed. Skip the next section on electric motors and proceed directly to RADIO INSTALLATION on page 18. ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION If you are going to use an electric motor system in your KADET LT-40, you will need to acquire these items (not supplied): (1) Electric Motor and suitable Propeller (1) Motor Mount (1) set of Mounting Bolts and Blind Nuts (1) ESC (Electronic Speed Control) (1) Battery Pack (1) set of Connectors (Battery-ESC) (1) 3/4 wide hook-and-loop (Velcro ) sticky-back Tape (1) 3/4 wide hook-and-loop (Velcro ) Strap 1) There are four sets of cross-hairs etched on the front of the plywood firewall to mark the locations of the mounting holes for the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount. To install this mount on the firewall you will need to purchase (4) 4-40 x 1/2 Socket-Head Bolts, (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers, and (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts. Drill the four mounting holes with a 9/64 or #27 drill bit. Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Cowling (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting There are literally dozens of good electric motors and accessories on the market that are suitable for flying the KADET LT-40. All of them have their own unique features and dimensions, making it impossible to write detailed instructions for every brand. As mentioned in the beginning of this manual, we will be installing a Maxx Products #HC brushless outrunner electric motor, with the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount, and a Castle Creations ESC. Even if you use other brands, the following instructions should provide you with enough quidance to successfully install your electric power system. NOTE: If you are using a different mount, line your mount up on the firewall according to the horizontal and vertical thrust lines that are etched in the plywood. Then drill appropriate holes where needed for your mounting bolts. 2) Install the blind nuts on the back of the firewall. The best method is to use one of your mounting bolts, with a flat washer on it, from the front side of the firewall to draw the blind nut into the back side. Keep tightening the bolt until the prongs of the blind nut are completely locked into the plywood. After you get all four blind nuts in place, apply a little glue around the flanges of the blind nuts to keep them from coming loose. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the blind nuts. HELPFUL HINT: It s never easy putting a blind nut on the backside of the firewall of a pre-built model. Here s a handy trick! Take a stick of scrap balsa wood - 1/4 sq. x long works well in most cases - and put a piece of doubled-up tape (any kind) on the end, and then stick the blind nut to the tape. With this stick you can reach inside the nose of the airplane and hold the blind nut in position while you screw in the mounting bolt from the front of the firewall. If the model structure doesn t allow a straight shot at the location, cut an angle on the end of the stick to allow you to hold the blind nut at the correct angle. IMPORTANT NOTE ON MOTOR MOUNTS: If you are using a different brand electric motor or motor mount, you need to make sure that the combination you select can provide exactly 4-1/2 distance from the front of the prop adaptor to the front of the firewall (i.e. back of the mount). 4-1/2 is the distance needed for the cowling to fit properly. 16

17 3) Bolt your motor and mount onto the firewall. Use thread locking compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads. 4) Additional holes are needed in the firewall to allow air to flow back inside the fuselage to cool the battery and the ESC in flight. We recommend drilling three new 3/8 dia. holes in the approximate locations shown in this photo. These holes, in addition to the ones already there for the nose gear pushrod and the glow motor mounting, will provide adequate cooling air going into the fuselage. c) Mount your ESC inside the nose of the airplane, just behind the firewall. Stick it to the fuselage bottom with a 1-1/2 long piece of 3/4 wide hook & loop tape (not supplied). NOTE: Hook-and-loop tape has either the hook or the loop on only one side of the strip. The other side is sticky back. 7) Cut 3 small pieces of 3/4 wide hook-and-loop tape (not supplied) and stick them on the battery compartment floor, where shown in the following photo. Put a long strip of the mating tape on the bottom of each of your battery packs. This will keep your battery pack from shifing position in flight. 8) Cut two 9 long pieces of 3/4 wide hook-and-loop strap material (not supplied). Install the two straps in the battery compartment as shown, running them through the slots in the plywood floor. Anchor the straps to the backside of the plywood with a few drops of glue. These straps will keep your battery pack from falling out of the airplane. NOTE: Hook-and-loop strap has the hook surface on one side of the strip and the loop surface on the other side. You can overlap the ends of the strip and stick them together, effectively creating a strap to hold your battery pack securely in position. 5) The cooling air must have a place to exit the fuselage. Using a sharp new blade in your hobby knife, cut a 1 x 3 opening in the bottom of the fuselage, 16 behind the landing gear. After making the opening, seal and toughen the edges of the bare balsa wood with a coat of Thin CA glue or epoxy. 6) a) Solder the appropriate connector (not supplied) to the battery leads of your ESC. b) Pass the motor leads of the ESC through the bottom right cooling hole you made in back in Step 4. Connect the leads to the motor. Operate the motor and check the direction of rotation. If you need to reverse the rotation, refer to the instructions that came with the motor and ESC. 9) Mount the cowling to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mm Screws provided. Note that four holes for the screws are already in the cowling - two on each side. Tape the cowling in correct position on the fuselage, using a low-tack tape. Use a 1/16" drill bit to make a guide hole through one of the upper cowl mounting holes and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm Screw into the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on the opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole and install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape. 17

18 10) OPTIONAL SPINNER: A 2 dia. spinner is included in this kit. No doubt it will be used by almost everyone who is installing a glow engine. However with an electric motor you may prefer to not use the spinner in order to allow more cooling air to flow into the cowling. If you do elect to use a spinner, check after the first couple flights for any sign of the motor overheating. If you think it s getting too hot, you may need to make some additional openings in the front of the cowling for additional cooling air to enter. Also make sure you have plenty of exit area for the air. In any fully cowled installation (glow or electric), it is critical that you have slightly more exit area than incoming area. Having more exit area creates a positive air flow through the cowling - a suction affect - drawing the heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air can come in. grommets so far that the grommets loose all shock absorbing ability. Tighten the screws just enough to make contact with the grommets and keep the servos in place. RADIO INSTALLATION NOTE: The receiver and servos of different brand radios are not all the same size! Consequently, it is practically impossible for us to guarantee that every word and picture in this next sequence will pertain exactly to your installation. As you go along, you may notice some differences between your radio equipment and ours. Nonetheless, most of the radio system components will be close enough in size and appearance that you should be able to figure out for yourself how to handle any minor differences. Follow the instructions as closely as possible. If you have any questions, seek the advice of an experienced modeler. The installation of the control system in your new model is very important! It must be done correctly in order for your airplane to fly successfully. INSTALL THE SWITCH The first step is to mount the radio's on/off switch in the left side of the fuselage (the side away from the exhaust). Start by using the switch cover plate as a template to mark the location and size of the opening and the two holes for the mounting screws. Use a modeling knife to cut the opening. Use a 1/16" dia. drill to make the holes for the screws. Install the switch. NOSE GEAR PUSHROD Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage) (1) 1/16 dia. x 16 straight Music Wire Pushrod (1) Brass Pushrod Connector (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer (1) 4-40 x 1/8 Pushrod Connector Bolt 1) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the outermost hole of the nose gear Steering Arm. Install the Pushrod Connector on the BOTTOM of the Steering Arm. NOTE: It will probably be necessary to open up the hole in the steering arm with a 1/16 drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely. CAUTION: Make sure the opening for the switch's on/off lever is just slightly bigger than the lever, so that the switch will operate without catching or binding on the wood. 2) The plastic outer sleeve for the nose gear pushrod is already installed in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so that the front end is flush with the front of the firewall. Then glue the plastic pushrod tubing permanently in the hole in the left side of the fuselage former, in front of the servos. INSTALL THE ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOS Mount your elevator and rudder servos in the plywood Servo Tray using the screws and rubber grommets that came with your radio system. Be sure to orient the servos in the tray as shown here. CAUTION: The rubber grommets that came with your servos act as shock absorbers and prevent engine vibration from damaging the electronics in the servos. Do not over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they compress the rubber 3) A piece of straight 1/16 dia. Music Wire is provided to make the nose gear pushrod. Use a diagonal cutting pliers to cut the piece to 14" long. Remove any burrs from the ends of the wire with a file. 4) Make a "Z-BEND" in one end of the 14 wire. This will be the end of the pushrod that attaches to the rudder servo. See MAKING A Z-BEND IN 5 EASY STEPS on page 23. 5) Insert the Z-BEND into the middle hole of the rudder servo arm. The Z-BEND should go into the servo arm from the BOTTOM, as shown in the next photo. 18

19 1) Hold the Nylon Control Horn in position on the left side of the rudder and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilot holes through the rudder with a 1/16" dia. drill bit (turn the bit with your fingers or a pin vise - a power drill is not necessary). 6) Slide the unbent end of the pushrod wire inside the plastic outer sleeve, starting from the servo end. As the plain end of the wire exits the firewall, insert it into the pushrod connector on the steering arm. 2) Mount the Control Horn onto the rudder with the Retainer Plate and Bolts. 7) Point the nose wheel straight ahead, check that the rudder servo is in neutral position, and then tighten the set screw in the pushrod connector on the steering arm. 8) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation of the nose gear. If you sense any binding in the nose gear movement, find the cause and fix it now. NOTE: The exact amount of nose wheel travel is not as critical as the other flight control surfaces will be. A good rule of thumb, especially for new pilots, is that less travel of the nose wheel is better than more! You do not need any more than 10 O -15 O of travel each way! 3) Cut one of the 10" Threaded Rods to 5" overall length. Cut the plain end of the rod, not the threaded end! 4) Coat all of the unthreaded portion of the 5 rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to the next step before the glue dries. RUDDER PUSHROD Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Nylon Control Horn (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn (1) 1/8 O.D. x 38 Nylon Pushrod Tube (2) 2-56 x 10 Threaded Rods (2) Nylon R/C Links 5) Slide the glue coated end of the 5" threaded rod inside the 1/8 O.D. x 38 Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginning of the threads. Now get a good grip on the threaded portion of the rod, and start screwing the threads into the tubing. Keep turning the rod until at least 3/16" of threads are inside the nylon tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue, and set the assembly aside to dry. NOTE: If you need to hold onto the threaded portion of the rod with a pliers in order to screw it in, use a cloth between the rod and the jaws of your pliers to avoid damaging the threads. 6) After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C Link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. 19

20 the transmitter's rudder control stick, the rudder should move approximately 1" right and 1" left. NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of rudder travel, try using your transmitter s End Point Adjustment feature to dial in the proper amount. Also fine tune the overall length of the rudder pushrod, by screwing one or both of the nylon R/C Links further in or out, until the rudder is neutral when the transmitter is neutral. 7) From the tail end of the airplane, slide the rudder pushrod inside the pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C Link is even with the rudder control horn. Pry open the R/C link and clip it into the outermost hole of the rudder control horn. Now reach into the fuselage and try operating the rudder from the servo end of the pushrod. It should work smooth and easy. If not, figure out why and fix it now before proceeding. 8) a) Now clip another R/C Link into the rudder servo arm - on the side of the servo opposite the nose gear pushrod. b) Set the rudder in neutral position. c) Mark the inner pushrod tube exactly 1/8" from the end of the R/C Link. d) Unhook the R/C Link from the rudder horn and slide the pushrod tube back out of the airplane. Cut off the tube at the mark just made, using a sharp razor blade or modeling knife. ELEVATOR PUSHROD Locate the following parts from the kit contents: (1) Nylon Control Horn (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn (1) 1/8 O.D. x 38 Nylon Pushrod Tube (2) 2-56 x 10 Threaded Rods (2) Nylon R/C Links 1) Mount a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the Elevator using two M2 x 12mm Bolts. Make sure the Elevator Horn is in the center of the tail opening so that the R/C link won't hit the fuse sides. 2) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat all of the plain portion of the 7 rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to the next step before the glue dries. 3) Slide the glue coated end of the 7" long threaded rod inside the 1/8 O.D. x 38 Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginning of the threads. Then screw at least 3/16" of threads inside the tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. 9) Cut a 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat the plain portion of the 7 rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue. Immediately slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end of the rudder pushrod tube. Screw at least 3/16" of threads into the tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue and let dry. 4) Slide the elevator pushrod inside the pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C Link can be snapped into the bottom hole of the elevator control horn. Then reach into the fuselage and try operating the elevator from the servo end of the pushrod. It should work smooth and easy. If not, figure out why and fix it now before proceeding. 10) Slide the rudder pushrod back inside the sleeve in the fuselage and clip the rear R/C Link back onto the elevator horn. At the servor end of the pushrod, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. Then clip that R/C link into the rudder servo arm. 11) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation of the rudder. If you sense any binding in the rudder movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of 20