INTRODUCTION TO THE REHABILITATION OF THE EASTERN COTTONTAIL

INTRODUCTION TO THE REHABILITATION OF THE EASTERN COTTONTAIL Wildlife Welfare, Inc 2013 WRNC Symposium 2013 Basic Cottontail Rehabilitation Instructor: Jackie Wylie boogboomer@rocketmail.com

INTRODUCTION The Eastern Cottontail rabbit is abundant in yards, meadows and fields throughout the eastern United States. They breed from early spring until fall. The mother makes her nest in a shallow depression, usually out in the open. She lines the nest with her fur and covers the babies with dried grass or straw. Many of these nests are discovered by dogs, cats or lawnmowers or by people working in gardens and flowerbeds. If you follow these guidelines, you as rehabbers will experience the joys, the pleasures, the antics, and the humor of these little creatures. You will be more relaxed and more in tune with your bunnies. This will enable you to reach a higher success rate in raising, doctoring and releasing these wonderful mammals back into their natural habitat. ORPHANED OR NOT? If you find a disturbed nest of baby bunnies, place some of the nesting materials back in the bottom of the nest which will be lined with the mother s fur. Then snuggle the bunnies down closely together and cover them with the rest of the nesting materials. Use gloves to handle the babies since they are odorless which protects them from predators. Cut 1

several pieces of string (about a foot long) or use very small sticks, and place them on top of the nest to make a cross. Keep all pets and children away. Check the nest the next morning to see if the string or sticks have been disturbed by the mother coming and going. The mother only comes about twice during the night (usually dawn and dusk) to feed for short periods and does not stay at the nest. You will probably never see the mother. She doesn t stay because she doesn t want to draw the attention of predators to the nest. If the nest looks as if the mother is not returning or if the babies look thin and cold or have ants, flies, or other insects on them, then they need help. If it is impossible to return the bunnies to their mother, or they have been injured by a cat, dog, or mower, you will have to raise the bunnies. Any time a bunny has been in a cat s mouth it must be taken to a rehabilitator for antibiotics. Some of the baby bunnies brought in by well-meaning people are really out on their own, while mom is already raising her next litter. Bunnies are on their own at about 5" or a little bigger than a woman s closed fist. These youngsters leave the nest about four weeks after birth. Here you can apply the rule, If you have to chase it to catch it, it doesn t need your help. The bunnies are born hairless and with eyes closed. They are fully furred at one week, and the eyes open at six to ten days. The really unusual thing about cottontails is that they have a stomach and intestine that are usually devoid of microorganisms. This allows a full stomach to nourish the baby for many hours without becoming sour. COTTONTAIL DEVELOPMENT CHART Wild baby bunnies are born without fur. Their eyes are closed and their ears are pressed down on their bodies. (Domestic bunnies show pink pigmentation and are larger than wild bunnies.) The babies may still have their umbilical cords attached. The facial features of a newborn baby rabbit are not very distinct but it s obvious where the eyes will be. Age newborn to three days (approx. 35 grams) 3-5 days Appearance born furless; eyes and ears closed; darkish skin pigmentations skin becomes dark; hair grows rapidly; loss of umbilical cord; eyes will open soon 2

1 week (approx. 50-70 grams) 2-3 weeks (approx. 75-100 grams) 3-4 weeks (approx. 100-150 grams) 4-6 weeks (approx.150-200 grams) fully furred; eyes open and ears stand up rapid growth ears tall and pointed; full round bodies; active at night close to release; very active at night, pacing and jumping. Rabbits this size would be on their own in the wild. HOUSING The most important needs of a bunny are warmth and QUIET. If they do not feel warm to the touch, they must be warmed as described in the section on general mammal care. Check for dehydration and treat if needed. A clear Rubbermaid or other similar container 10 long X 6 tall X 11 wide will work for newborns. The top can be cut out and hardware wire attached, or cut lots and lots of air holes in the top. As they get a little older they will need to be placed in a container with taller sides. Keep in mind that even tiny bunnies can jump straight up and can easily escape. Put soft receiving blankets or fleece on the bottom of the container and cover the babies lightly with another blanket. Make sure none of the blankets you are using are terry cloth or have loose strings or holes that tiny paws or heads could get caught in. Using a light color will also let you know if a baby is getting diarrhea since you will be able to see the stains on the cloth. It s a good idea to put some alfalfa hay in with the bedding even before the eyes are open, so they will learn the smell of their food. Use a heating pad on, the lowest setting, partially under the container. PUT THE BOX IN A QUIET LOCATION AND DO NOT PEEK until they need feeding or the container needs to be cleaned. Do not bring children and pets near them. Wash bunny laundry in unscented soap because the babies have no odor of their own, and once they are released, odors can draw attention from a predator. Do NOT wear perfume or scented lotion around bunnies. When the bunnies eyes open (around 7-10 days,) depending on the activity of the bunnies they should be moved to a larger cage (20 X 13 X 15 ). Make sure the cage or container is at least 12 inches high because a rabbit does not have good dept perception and will continue to jump up at the wire top to escape and damage their heads. The floor of this cage 3

is lined with newspapers to soak up urine and has lots of alfalfa hay cut into small pieces. They will be introduced to their first hidey box which can be a cardboard box turned on it side with 2 layers of soft cloths so they can burrow between them for additional warmth and comfort. About a week before release, rabbits may need to be moved into a larger cage (with small wire because they can squeeze through very tiny openings) or an extra large tub about 3 to 4 feet long. Always keep a hidey box or two in the cage. Cages must be cleaned daily and sometimes twice daily, depending on the number of bunnies in the cage. Have a second box to hold the bunnies while you clean their cage. Wipe down the sides and bottom of the cage before placing clean newspaper on the bottom along with fresh hay. Make sure ALL strong odors are eliminated from the cage. Once you clean a cage DO NOT put uneaten food back in the clean cage. SOCIALIZATION If possible, never raise babies alone. Call around to other rehabbers if you have a loner and try to find one or two bunnies close in age. As they get older, they may fight any newcomers. After four weeks of age it probably isn t a good idea to try and mix them, but it is possible. Before attempting this you must know your bunnies. Are they hostile to begin with? Do they fight everything or are they fairly calm? How did it go when the new one was put in his cage? Did he attack it, make threatening gestures or did he just look at him and keep his distance? If you have any doubts, DON T DO IT! Serious injuries and even death can happen especially after you have gone to bed. Rabbits are crepuscular animals and are more active at night. If you re going to attempt this, do it in the morning which gives you at least twelve hours to observe how they are going to get along before night. Never mix a sick or injured animal with any group. RE CEIVING BUNNIES When you receive a call about a bunny, make sure that the caller knows to keep the bunny in a well-covered box with a soft cloth, and to keep the bunny warm. When the bunny arrives, he will be stressed, so put him in the cage you have prepared and leave him alone for an hour or so to adjust to his new environment. When you go back to him, speak very softly, move slowly, and give him a chance to see and hear you before you pick him up. For 4

an older bunny, have a butterfly net handy in case he runs from you. He should be weighed and checked for injuries and parasites. Make sure to check in the ears and between all of the loose rolls and creases that baby bunnies have. It is a good idea to stimulate all new bunnies. We have no idea how long they have been without their mother. Sometimes their urine can be very dark brown to brownish black. This is a sign that the bunny s mother has not been present for a long time. Their urine can be yellow, orange, or a reddish color depending on what they have been eating. If the bunny s eyes are open, he can be put in a box with hay, greens, and water. If the eyes are closed, be sure he is warmed before you begin feeding. INFANT FEEDING Fox Valley 32/40 (powder), Zoologic (PetAg) Milk Matrix 33/40 (powder) Zoologic Milk Matrix 42/25 or KMR (PetAg) can be used with rabbits. Multi-Milk (powdered fat additive) may be added to formulas once the rabbits have become stable, but add it gradually.formulas should be mixed according to manufactures directions using very hot 175 degrees (just before boiling) water. Mix the formula at least 4 hours before feeding or the night before and let it rest in refrigerator until time to feed. Heat only what you need and do not reheat any unused formula. You can heat your formula by microwaving a cup of water for about 50 secs and then fill your syringes and submerge in the hot water to warm formula. Test formula to make sure it is not too hot but rabbits like their formula on the hot side. If you have several litters then it is best to use separate formula and syringes to lessen transferring anything between the groups that can have problems that you are not aware of. If your water is very hard or you are using a salt-based softening system, you should use bottled water. A rabbit that is dehydrated will not want to eat. Lactated ringers or Pedialyte should be fed the first feeding or two to make sure the animal is hydrated. If the rabbit is really bad off he will need sub-q fluids before any formula is offered. When the baby is first fed the formula, he should begin at a very low percentage to ease the transition from mother s milk. Start out at 25% formula (of the full-strength mixture) to 75% water. Give the 25% formula for two or three feedings. If the baby tolerates the formula, raise the percentage to 50% for two or three feedings and then 75% for two or three feedings. If all is going well, the baby can then have full-strength formula. 5

This can take about three days. Watch the poops closely, and any time there is a sign of diarrhea, cut the percentage back until it clears up and then raise it again gradually. Note:Once the babies are stable and have been on formula for a few days you may begin adding small amounts of MultiMilk (fat additive by PetAg) according to directions on container. Watch closely for diarrhea, and back off the MultiMilk or stop using if you see any signs. A probiotic like BeneBac or BeneBac Plus (PetAg Product) is essential in stabilizing the ph in the gut. The powered form is best. Mix according to directions in formula and sprinkle on foods. Add probiotics just before feeding formula. never mix in stored formula. Foods sprinkled with BeneBac needs to be removed after 8 hours. If your water is very hard or you are using a salt-based softening system, you should use bottled water. You will also quickly learn how much formula a baby should be expected to eat. There is a chart below that gives the amount to feed based on the weight of the baby. Be sure not to overfeed. The tiny bunnies may start out at less than 1 cc per feeding, and it may take several feedings before they learn to like it. It is best to use the 1 cc O-ring syringes until they are eating over 3 cc at a feeding. It is easier to keep the baby from aspirating the formula by using a small syringe, especially for a novice rehabber. Feeding time should be a quiet relaxing time. Your voice should be soft. Some rehabbers have found that the babies eat better using a song like voice. When you are feeding the baby the formula, it is a good idea to sit on the floor, since bunnies are notorious for jumping out of your hands. Don t forget to hold him in a small towel or washcloth, and have his face partially covered to reduce the fear. If he is older set him on his bottom. He should be in an upright position leaning slightly backward. Stimulate before you feed. If bun does not urinate, try again during or after feeding. This usually relaxes the bunny. Before you begin feeding, push the air out the end of the nipple. Use the syringe with a nipple and put a drop of formula on his lip. Gently move the nipple back and forth across his lip. Just the movement will make him stick out his tongue and taste. A baby who has just arrived may not want to take the formula since it doesn't smell or taste right. You may need to gently pull down on his lower lip with your thumb to open his mouth. Sometimes it takes up to three days for a baby to decide he likes the formula. 6

Your fingers should be wrapped around the syringe with your thumb on the plunger. This position gives you much more control than having your forefinger on the plunger. If the baby sucks hard, you may even have to hold back on the plunger. See the picture of this in the squirrel section. If you have more than two babies of the same sex and size, you will need a holding box, so you can tell who has been fed. Marking the babies will help too especially if you have one or two you are watching because they are not eating well or whatever. Always keep sick or injured babies separate from the group.. If the baby aspirates any of the formula, you will see bubbles coming out his nostrils, and he may jerk back from the nipple. Immediately remove the nipple and take a tissue and wipe his nose and put the baby down to let him sneeze out the formula dabbing nose as needed. If the baby doesn t seem to be clearing the formula on his own then hold the baby so that its head is pointing down (for a short time)and see if this helps. You can also use a syringe and help suck it out like a child s suction bulb. Let the baby fully recover before you continue feeding. Let him sneeze out the liquid. Dab at his nose with a tissue and let him recover for a minute before you continue feeding Sometimes the aspiration of formula can lead to aspiration pneumonia. If the baby breathes with a definite wheeze or whistle, he needs to be treated with an antibiotic. See a veterinarian or an experienced rehabber for advice. Be sure to clean and rinse the utensils thoroughly after each feeding. After rinsing, leave the parts separated so they can dry thoroughly. If a wet nipple is put back on for the next feeding, it may slip off and the baby could swallow it. Before a baby grows his fur, you can see the formula inside his stomach as a white area on his left side. It s not hard to tell that the food is being digested as this milk line shrinks. It should be mostly gone before the next feeding. There may be a band or spot left. The amount of formula the babies eat can vary widely. The stomach capacity of a bunny is 10% of their body weight or higher, which allows them to take in more formula at each feeding. There are many differing opinions on how often to feed bunnies: from once or twice a day to every two hours. The following table is a general guideline. 7

APPROXIMATE FEEDING SCHEDULE Weight Amount Frequency (times per day) 30 40g 3-4cc 2-3 (possibly an additional late night feeding) 40-50g 4-5cc 2 50-60g 5-6cc 2 60-70g 6-7cc 2 70-80g 7-8cc 2 80-90g 8-9cc 1-2 90-100g 9-12cc 1 100-125g 10-12cc 1 This is a just a guideline for healthy bunnies. Those that have just come in and are not eating well may need additional feedings during the day. Some rehabbers will tube-feed reluctant bunnies, but this will take practice and supervision by an experienced rehabber. Feeding schedules vary widely with each bunny. Some bunnies will only take ½ cc while others will take 2 or 3 cc. Then at the next feeding those that took 2 or 3 cc won t take any at all and just want to sleep. If all fails and your bunny will not eat, call around to other rehabbers for some of their tricks or ask a more experienced rehabber to take the bunny for a short time. Bunnies are crepuscular (most active in the early morning and evening), and these are the best times to feed them after they are eating some solids. They are creatures of habit and like routine. 8

ELIMINATION Don t forget that babies who still have their eyes closed must be stimulated to urinate with each feeding. You should gently but swiftly rub a cotton ball across the genitals. You should continue to stimulate for three days after the eyes open. It is generally very easy to know when you don t need to do it anymore. They will let you know they don t like it and you will see pee spots in cage. JUVENILE FEEDING Young bunnies should have access to alfalfa hay in their bedding as soon as you receive them. It is easier for the small bunnies if the hay is cut into smaller pieces and spread over the newspaper. When they open their eyes, you can also begin to add some natural foods and smells. Greens should be added one at a time and in small amount to reduce the chance of intestinal problems. These can be grass, clover and dandelion greens, but it is critical these be free of chemicals. Don t hesitate to pull up the root of a plant with dirt included. You can keep these wild greens fresh by misting with water and keeping in refrigerator. If you do not have access to safe greens from your yard, you can offer them fresh spring mix, dark green lettuce (not iceberg), collards, mustard greens, parsley, and kale, and some stores have dandelion greens. Rabbit pellets can be offered at this stage. You can start with crushed pellets to make it easier for them to eat. Rabbits do not tolerate carbohydrates well and offering too much of any foods that contain them will cause diarrhea. This is why it is important to limit table fruits, oatmeal, Cherrios and even some commercial rabbit pellets. The bunnies will still be taking two or more feedings of formula a day. Be sure to add one new food at a time for 2-3 days. That way the bunny s system will have time to adjust to the new foods. It s easier to cut, wash, and dry all the veggies and place them in plastic bags and store them in the fridge ready to go for the next feeding. For small bunnies, cut food into small pieces that the babies can handle. Remember that these little guys are running all over their cage and eliminating on everything so it will be necessary to replenish the greens several times a day. You will gradually find out how much food to put in the cage. 9

CAT BITES Any time a bunny has been involved with a cat he MUST be given an antibiotic. We use injectable Baytril, administered orally but some rehabbers use injectable penicillin which requires training to administer. There are also other prescription antibiotics which are effective against pasturella There are also some other prescription antibiotics which are effective against pasturella. Because of the rabbits delicate GI system many of these antibiotics cannot be given to rabbits. Check with a veterinarian or experienced rehabber for proper antibiotic. Do not give Amoxicillin, Clavamox and oral Penicillins. BLOAT Bunnies seem to be very prone to bloat. This is a very painful condition, and you need to seek help immediately. Some things that might help in the early stages are: dilute the formula, administer infant gas relief medication (simethicone), and give sub-q fluids. Simethicone should be administered initially at 100 mg/kg and then half that amount every couple of hours. Putting them belly down on a heating pad (lowest setting) and rubbing their sides also helps with bloat. You can massage them like this until their belly goes down. RELEASE Most rehabbers agree that bunnies should be released as soon as they can survive on their own. This should happen when they are about 6-7 weeks old or 150-200 grams. You may have one or two rabbits that are about to kill themselves to get out before this age. Those should be released early to prevent injury in the cage. Check for good weather for 3 to 4 days and release in the evening, in a quiet, grassy area near good cover (briar patch is great) with thick, bushy, covering vines of any kind. Do not release in an area with free roaming cats and/or dogs. Most back yards are not suitable for release. 10