MAŁOPOLSKA Weekend trips Małopolska 8 UNESCO sites 250 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route Wadowice town of birth of Pope John Paul II Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia 9 spa resorts 6 national parks 4 geothermal pools Rafting down the Dunajec gorge 2600 km of bicycle trails 3360 km of mountain trails 250 ski runs www.visitmalopolska.pl EUROPEAN UNION EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT FUND Project co-financed by the European Union within the Malopolska Regional Operational Programme 2007 2013
Rejkiawik Wysowa-Zdrój IS FIN Helsinki S Oslo N Tallin Sztokholm RUS EST Ryga Dublin LV DK IRL LT Kopenhaga GB RUS Londyn Paryż Berlin Warszawa PL D L Praga Luksemburg Lizbona Monako MC I Madryt V RO Zagrzeb HR RSM Bukareszt Belgrad BIH SRB Sarajewo MNE Rzym Kiszyniów H Lublana SLO San Marino MD Budapeszt A CH AND UA Bratysława Wiedeń FL Berno Vaduz Andora Kijów KRAKÓW CZ SK F E Mińsk BY Amsterdam Bruksela B P Wilno NL Podgorica RKS Tirana Sofia BG Priština Skopje MK AL GR TR Ateny M Publisher Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province Regional Tourism Information System Team ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków msit@malopolska.mw.gov.pl www.visitmalopolska.pl Text Krzysztof Bzowski Photos S. Gacek, T. Gębuś, J. Gorlach, K. Gzyl, P. Mierniczak, J. Podlecki, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród, UMWM photo archive Publishing Amistad Sp. z o.o. Program ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922 biuro@polskaturystyczna.pl, www.polskaturystyczna.pl Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc Cover design, graphic design: PART SA Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-63091-13-2 The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010. Małopolska Capital of the region: Kraków Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland) Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland) Landscape: the tallest peak Rysy: 2499 m asl mountains Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Gorce foothills Carpathian Foothills uplands Kraków-Częstochowa Upland lowlands Vistula valley main rivers Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała water reservoirs Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki, Klimkówka the highest located, cleanest lakes Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes the largest and deepest cave Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km of corridors, 824 m deep
MAŁOPOLSKA Weekend trips Planning the trip, photo by D. Zaród Table of contents Chapter I. Weekend trip around... Kraków..................... 2 Chapter II. Weekend trip around... Tarnów................... 11 Chapter III. Weekend trip around... Nowy Sącz............. 16 Chapter IV. Weekend trip around... Zakopane.............. 20 The peaks of the High Tatra Mountains lost in the clouds, the white rocks of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland with ruins of castles referred to as eagles nests, historic towns with old, charming tenement houses, green forests and woods All are waiting for everyone who plans to expand their sightseeing in Małopolska outside big cities. Once you have have seen Tarnów and Nowy Sącz, once you have explored Zakopane and spent a few days in Kraków, it is worth continuing your sightseeing further afield. Around each of these areas you will find numerous places that are worth visiting and tourist trails hidden among picturesque landscapes. Owing to a rich topographical variety of Małopolska and a turbulent history, this region, like no other in Poland, can boast a huge number of historic monuments and marvellous landscapes. If you want to hike in the mountains, you should visit places around Zakopane or Nowy Sącz. If historic places are what you are looking for, head for towns and villages surrounding Tarnów and Kraków. In this guide you will find short descriptions of suggested routes starting in each of the main tourist centres in Małopolska. These routes are best for one day car trips, but many of them can be walked or cycled. 1
Weekend around Kraków Wawel Hill, photo by M. Zaręba Pieskowa Skała, photo by M. Zaręba In the vicinity of Kraków you can find both rocky limestone canyons, as well as boggy plains covered with wild forests. You can set out on a trip among the hills or spend some time in the kingdom of fishermen, that is in Dolina Karpia (Carp Valley). Such landscape diversity provides great opportunities, and if you think of the built heritage that can also be found here, you will realise that Kraków s neighbourhood is no less interesting than the city itself. Kraków-Częstochowa Upland is a perfect area to enjoy active leisure, especially hiking and cycling. Here you can find Ojców National Park and a few landscape parks protecting the picturesque region of Jura Krakowsko- Częstochowska (Jurassic Highland). It is also a great area for rock climbing and horse riding, e.g. along the Jurassic Horse Riding Trail. The most interesting historic heritage sites in the neighbourhood of Kraków are inscribed on the UNESCO list. These include: a salt mine in Wieliczka, founded in the 13 th century, a marvellous group of Calvary paths in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, and an appalling memorial of the World War II, the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. The surroundings of Kraków offer much more attractions, so you can be sure that a trip in any direction will not be a waste of time. Wieliczka Salt Mine, UMWM photo archive Niepołomice, photo by J. Podlecki The subterranean salt kingdom in Wieliczka At the distance of 12 km south of Kraków lies the town of Wieliczka, where you will find a salt mine, founded in the 13 th century, and now inscribed on the UNESCO list. The underground tourist route that leads through a network of corridors, huge chambers, and even chapels carved in salt (such as the spectacular Chapel of St. Kinga with salt bas-reliefs and altars) is the main attraction of the salt mine apart from the underground Muzeum Żup Krakowskich (Kraków Saltworks Museum). It houses a collection of exhibits devoted to the history and technology of salt mining. On the surface it is worth visiting the nearby Saltworks Castle (zamek żupny) with the second part of the exhibition of the above mentioned museum, which among other things, features a collection of 400 salt shakers. You can also take a walk to the nearby sloping main market square. From Wieliczka you can head 16 km south for the town of Dobczyce, passing a small Romanesque church in Dziekanowice. On a rocky hill in Dobczyce, by the Dobczyckie lake, the ruins of a royal castle have remained to this day. A few old wooden buildings that have been moved here make up a small heritage park in front of the castle gate. Nearby, you can also find a Baroque church built from the stones acquired after the demolition of castle s walls. 2 3
An alternative route takes you from Wieliczka to Niepołomice (12 km to the east), where it is worth visiting a Renaissance royal castle with an arcaded courtyard and an interesting museum. In the town centre there is a Gothic church founded by king Casimir the Great with two chapels: a Renaissance one of the Branicki family, and a Baroque one of the Lubomirski family. Beyond Niepołomice stretches the Niepołomice Forest with many tourist trails. In the neighbourhood, one can also find the oldest female convent in Małopolska the Benedictine convent in Staniątki. Wieliczka Salt Mine, Tourist Route, ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, \ +48 12 2788302, / www.kopalnia.pl; Apr Oct, daily 7.30am 7.30pm; Nov March 8am 5pm; visits only with a guide: Polish language speaking guide, PLN 50, concessions: PLN 37, foreign language speaking guide: PLN 65, concessions: PLN 51, photography and filming: PLN 10. Kraków Saltworks Museum, ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, \ +48 12 2783266, / www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl; same as for the Tourist Route. Museum in Dobczyce Castle and Heritage Park, \ +48 12 2711455, / www.zamek.dobczyce.pl; Apr and Oct, Tue Sun 10am 4pm; May Jun and Sept, Tue Fri 10am 4pm, Sat Sun 10am 6pm; Jul Aug, Tue Fri 10am 6pm, Sat Sun 10am 8pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4. Museum of Modern Art in Niepołomice, in a castle, ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepołomice, \ +48 12 2619851, / www.muzeum.niepolomice.pl; daily, 10am 5pm; PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2. Niepołomice Forest, a bison, UMWM photo archive Castle in Pieskowa Skała and the Mace of Herkules, photo by D. Zaród A trip to Ojców and Pieskowa Skała To the north east of Kraków stretches the picturesque land of the Jurassic Highland, a limestone Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. It is an extensive plateau covered with rocky monadnocks that are cut through by rocky gorges and deep valleys. The longest and the most interesting one is Dolina Prądnika (Prądnik Valley). The protected area of Ojców National Park constitutes its most scenic and precious part. Travelling from Kraków it is best to go to Ojców, situated 25 km away. Here you can visit the ruins of a royal castle and the wooden chapel on water constructed directly above the waters of the Prądnik river. Numerous tourist routes lead from Ojców, along the Prądnik Valley, to the foot of many rocky walls and crags, e.g. to Brama Krakowska (Kraków Gate) at the end of Ciasne Skałki gorge, and farther to Grota Łokietka (King Łokietek Cave). In the vicinity, you can also follow an interesting educational trail up the Okopa mountain to Jaskinia Ciemna (Dark Cave) or visit the Sąspówka gorge, a favourite place of beavers. In the northern part of the park you will find the famous monadnock called Maczuga Herkulesa (Mace of Hercules), and behind it, on a cliff above Prądnik, there is an impressive 4 5
castle in Pieskowa Skała housing an interesting museum of changes in art styles from medieval times to the 19 th century, as well as a gallery of English paintings. The castle with its arcaded courtyard, elegant loggia from the outside and a reconstructed garden is one of the greatest examples of Renaissance architecture in Małopolska. On your way from Ojców to Pieskowa Skała you can visit the hermitage of blessed Salome and a small Baroque church in Grodzisko village. There was a wooden town here in the early Middle Ages, and the 13 th century saw the founding of a convent of poor Clares, whose superior was Salome herself. Coming back from Ojców through Sąspów and Jerzmanowice it is worth visiting the Wierzchowska Górna Cave, which has been adapted for tourists and is the most interesting cave on the Jurassic Highland. You may also go to Bębło to see an impressive Grodzisko rock (512 m asl) which is the highest peak in the Polish Jura in the vicinity of Kraków. Ojców Castle, middle Apr May and Aug Sept, 10am 4.45pm; Jun Jul, 10am 5.45; Oct, 10am 3.45pm; first half of Nov, 10am 2.45pm; PLN 2.50, concessions: PLN 1.50. Pieskowa Skała Castle Museum, \ +48 12 3896004, / www.pieskowaskala.eu; May Sept, Tue Thu 9am 5pm, Fri 9am 1pm, Sat Sun 10am 6pm; Apr and Oct, Tue Thu, Sat Sun 10am 4pm, Fri 10am 1pm; Nov March, Sat Sun 10am 4pm; for both exhibitions: PLN 16, concessions: PLN 9. Wierzchowska Górna Cave, \ +48 12 4110721, / www. gacek.pl, Apr and Sept-Oct, daily 9am 4pm; May Aug, 9am 5pm; Nov, 9am 3pm; Jan March, Sat Sun 10am 3pm; visits only with a guide, PLN 14, concessions: PLN 12. Wierzchowska Górna cave, photo by M. Zaręba The glove rock, UMWM photo archive A trip to Kraków Valleys Landscape Park Many attractive landscapes can be found in the vicinity of Krzeszowice, a town 25 km west of Kraków. When you go in this direction, it is worth seeing at least one of a few gorges called Dolinki Krakowskie (Kraków Valleys). They are protected as part of Kraków Valleys Landscape Park. You can take a walk in the forested Kluczwody Valley with ruins of the knight s castle and see an impressive rock gate at the end of the Bolechowicki Gorge. In the Kobylańska Valley you can admire numerous crags, walls and limestone ridges, and in the long Będkowska Valley, among other things, a wall of Sokolica peak and a real karst spring. Nearby Krzeszowice, beech woods of the Eliaszówka Valley hide a precious Baroque monument: the 17 th century monastery of the Carmelites in Czerna village. In neighbouring Paczółtowice there is a beautiful small wooden church from the beginning of the 16 th century. There you can also find a large golf course Krakow Valley Golf. Instead of playing golf you can ski here in winter and enjoy horse riding or a shooting range all year long. South of Krzeszowice, behind a strip of vast woods, there are magnificent ruins of Tęczyn Castle located on a dormant volcano. Other attractions of the Tenczyński Ridge include the rocky Mnikowski gorge and the Zimny Dół nature reserve. 6 7
Oświęcim and its surroundings Carp Valley, UMWM photo archive Castle in Oświęcim, photo by M. Zaręba Formerly a walled settlement by the Soła river, today Oświęcim is quite a large town known mainly for the Nazi German concentration camp that existed here during World War II. Today, this camp as a place of historic evidence and a memorial is inscribed on the UNESCO list as Auschwitz-Birkenau. Nazi German Concentration Camp (1940 1945). It consists of two separate concentration camps: the older and smaller concentration camp in Oświęcim (Auschwitz), and a large concentration camp in the neighbouring Brzezinka (Birkenau). Nazi German criminals killed around 1.5 million people here, most of whom were Jews. In the centre of Oświęcim, it is worth visiting a castle and a renovated synagogue. There are also two Gothic churches and a reconstructed market square. The town s surroundings, especially the Vistula Valley towards the town of Zator, have been known for centuries for carp ponds and they are referred to as Dolina Karpia (Carp Valley). It is a perfect place for fishing or watching water- and marshbirds. Lipowiec castle, photo by M. Zaręba Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba On the way from Kraków to Oświęcim it is worth stopping in Wygiełzów. A large heritage park with numerous wooden cottages, a church and a larch manor house is located here. Higher up, on a forested hill, you will see the ruins of the Lipowiec Castle. Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau, ul. Wieźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, \+48 33 8448100, / www.auschwitz. org. pl; daily; Jun-Aug, 8am 7pm; May and Jun, 8am 6pm; Apr and Oct, 8am 5pm; March and Nov, 8am 4pm; Dec Feb, 8am 3pm; visits in the period between May Oct only with a guide: 18 38 PLN, in the period between Nov Apr without a guide: admission free. Dolina Karpia, Rynek 2, Zator, \+48 33 8410584, / www.dolinakarpia.org. Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Lipowiec Castle, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów, \ +48 32 6134062, / www.mnpe.pl; daily, Apr Sept, 8am 6pm; Oct March, 8am 3pm; 8 21 PLN. 8 9
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, UMWM photo archive Calvary paths and the Pope s town Only 35 km from Kraków, over the hills and the green valleys of the Beskids towers a magnificent church and monastery of the Bernardines. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in Poland. A number of churches, chapels and shrines were built here at the beginning of the 17 th century in order to create the Calvary paths, conceived as a memorial of the Passion. Thanks to its beautiful landscape and highly original buildings, this oldest Polish Calvary complex has been inscribed on the UNESCO list. Kalwaria is also famous for its mystery plays, which are staged every year on Good Friday. Among the nearby places of interest is Lanckorona, which has retained the charm of a small Galician town with its sloping, cobbled market square, and the reconstructed one-storey wooden houses. If you visit Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, which used to be frequented by Karol Wojtyła as a place of prayer (also after he became Pope), it is worth making a trip to Wadowice, the birthplace of the Polish Pope, situated only 15 km to the west. The market square in Wadowice is dominated by the tower of the the Virgin Mary s Offertory Minor Basilica, a late-gothic church from the end of the 17th century, where Karol Wojtyła was baptised. Next to the small tenement house where the future Pope was born, there is a museum dedicated to his life. After the visit, you can have a rest in the nearby cafe and enjoy a Wadowice cream cake. From Wadowice it is worth going for a hike in the Low Beskids, to the Leskowiec peak and the neighbouring Groń Jana Pawła II (the Mountain of John Paul II). Family Home of John Paul II, ul. Kościelna 7, Wadowice, \ +48 33 8232662, / www.domrodzinnyjanapawla.pl; May Sept, Tue Sun 9am 1pm and 2am 6pm; Oct Apr, Tue Sun 9am noon and 1pm 4pm; voluntary donations. Town hall in Tarnów, photo by K. Gzyl Weekend around... Tarnów Day trips from Tarnów offer many marvellous buildings and monuments. In the Petrified City you can find original sandstone monadnocks, formed in various shapes as a result of erosion. Not far from Tarnów, along the Dunajec valley, you can find picturesquely situated mountain lakes Czchowskie and Rożnowskie (described in the section on weekend trips from Nowy Sącz). There are several spots along the bank which have been adapted for swimmers. You can also hire water sports equipment. As for the original historic buildings around Tarnów, one has to mention the late-gothic church in Dębno, as well as the magnificent aristocratic residence in Nowy Wiśnicz, which was built at the turn of the 17 th century. Bochnia boasts the oldest Polish salt mine (even older than the one in Wieliczka), whereas in Lipnica Murowana you can visit a UNESCO-listed wooden church. Of tourist interest is also Zalipie, with its living folk tradition and flower-patterned houses and furniture. 10 11
Almost 10 km south of Wiśnicz, in the valley of the Uszwica river, there is a village of Lipnica Murowana. It is famous not only for the Easter Palm contest organised during the Palm Sunday, but also for the UNESCO-listed wooden church of St. Leonard. On the way back to Tarnów, you should definitely visit Dębno and see the beautiful little castle of the Dębiński family, built of brick and stone at the end of the 15 th century, which presently houses an interesting museum. A taste of the Bochnia salt Bochnia salt mine, photo by M. Zaręba The oldest operating salt mine in Poland is located in Bochnia. Here, like in Wieliczka, salt has been extracted since the 18 th century. However, the salt mine in Bochnia was established a few dozen years earlier. A visit to this salt kingdom is a little bit shorter than to Wieliczka and includes, among other things, a visit to the chapel, the underground chambers and a display of old mining machines. The mine also offers an underground slide and a ride on a colliery train. From Bochnia, situated 45 km west of Tarnów, you can go to Nowy Wiśnicz, which is only 5 km to the south. Here, by the market square, you can find a few elegant tenement houses and a beautiful church from the early Baroque. The town is located in the shadow of a hill with a marvellous Renaissance castle of the Kmita family from the 15 th and 16 th century, which was reconstructed in the following century by the Lubomirski family into a huge bastion fortress. At the foot of the castle there is an interesting and intimate wooden Koryznówka Manor House, which houses the Museum of Jan Matejko. Bochnia Salt Mine, ul. Solna 2, \ +48 14 6153636, / www.kopalniasoli.pl; visits only with a guide; Mon Fri 9.30am, 11.30am and 3.30pm, Sat and Sun every hour from 10.15am to 4.15pm; Jan March and Sept PLN 24, concessions: PLN 19; Apr Dec PLN 30, concessions: PLN 22; family ticket: PLN 77; Photography: PLN 5. Nowy Wiśnicz Castle, ul. Zamkowa 13, \ +48 14 6128589, / www.zamekwisnicz.pl, Apr Oct, Mon Thu 9am 4pm, Fri 9am 5pm, Sat 10am 5pm, Sunday and holidays 10am 6pm; Nov March, daily 9am 4pm; PLN 8, concessions: PLN 5. Koryznówka Manor House Museum of Jan Matejko, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów, Stary Wiśnicz 148, \ +48 14 6128347; Tue Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 11am 3pm; PLN 5, concessions: PLN 3; photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 10. Museum of Antique Interiors Dębno Castle, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów; Dębno 189, \ +48 14 6658035, / www.zamekdebno.pl; Nov Apr, Tue and Thu 10am 4pm, Wed and Fri 9am 3pm, Sat and Sun 11am 2pm; Jul Aug, open until 6pm; PLN 8, concessions: PLN 4. Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by M. Zaręba 12 13
A trip to the Petrified City The Petrified City, photo by D. Gębuś Only 18 km south of Tarnów lies the town of Tuchów, where you can find a Redemptorist monastery with a shrine of the Virgin Mary. 11 km further down the Biała river valley, you will see the village of Gromnik with its beautiful wooden church from 1727. The road along the river then leads to Ciężkowice. In this town, near the neo-gothic church there is a market square surrounded by historic buildings from the 18 th and 19 th century, including arcaded wooden houses. Near Ciężkowice extends the reserve of the Petrified City, where you can see rocks in fanciful shapes reflected by their names, such as: the Witch, the Badger, the Pyramids and the Town Hall. On the other side of the Biała river valley, hidden in a quiet park in Kąśna Dolna, you can find the manor house of Ignacy Paderewski, which currently houses a museum dedicated to the life of the famous pianist. Manor house, Kąśna Dolna, UMWM photo archive Zalipie, photo by P. Mierniczak Painted Cottages Travelling up north from Tarnów, along Dunajec, through Żabno, you will reach Zalipie, located 34 km from Tarnów. This village is famous for the original tradition of decorating houses, farm buildings and even wells and kennels with colourful flower patterns on a white background. The cottages are also decorated inside along with the house equipment. This tradition is still alive: there is an annual competition for the best decorated house. Tourists can admire the beautiful old farm of Felicja Curyłowa, which is a classical example of a decorated cottage from Zalipie. On the way back to Tarnów, it is worth moving to the western bank of Dunajec. Not far from Szczurowa is the village Dołęga, situated at the edge of a forest. This is a great opportunity to get a taste of what a typical resi dence of the early 20 th -century gentry looked like. In Dołęga there is also a charming, classical manor house from around 1845, with the preserved interior design from the turn of the century. Felicja Curyłowa Farm, Zalipie 135, \ +48 14 6411912, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; Tue Sun 10am 2pm; PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2, photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 15. Manor House in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, \ +48 14 6715414, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; Tue Fri 9am 3pm, Sat and Sun 10am 2pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2. 14 15
A weekend around... Nowy Sącz Town hall in Nowy Sącz, photo by J. Gorlach Nowy Sącz lies in the extensive mountainous valley, between the hills of Beskid Wyspowy, Sądecki and the Low Beskids. Around here you can enjoy a number of leisure activities, such as hiking and cycling up steep slopes, peaks and mountain passes. A visit to Nowy Sącz is also a perfect opportunity to explore the culture of the Ruthinian highlanders (the Lemkos) who live in the Low Beskids. Surrounded by mountains are the beautiful wooden Orthodox temples, which have subsequently been changed into Christian churches but have preserved the three characteristic tall, bulbous towers. Nowy Sącz is also the place to go for those who like spending time close to water. You can choose between the water reservoirs in Klimkówka, the Rożnowskie and Czchowskie Lakes, where you can swim and practice various water sports. In the winter you should visit the many skiing areas, including the cable-railway to Jaworzyna Krynicka, the new skiing area in Rytro, and the biggest one in Wierchomla Mała. Sightseeing Nowy Sącz is an occasion to visit the waters. The town is located very near numerous mineral water springs, including the most beautiful spa in Krynica-Zdrój. Orthodox church in Powroźnik, photo by P. Mierniczak A trip down the Poprad river gorge to Krynica Stary Sącz is only 8 km from Nowy Sącz. Its vast market square surrounded by historic low buildings is not the only tourist attraction of the city. In the 13 th century, a fortified convent of St. Clare was founded by Princess Kinga, the wife of Prince Bolesław V the Chaste. After her husband s death, Kinga became a nun, and nowadays she is recognised by the Catholics as a saint. South of Stary Sącz the Poprad Valley narrows. Travelling through Rytro, with its ruins of a 13 th -century castle, you will arrive at Piwniczna-Zdrój. Across Poprad, at the stretch between the two towns, flatboat rallies are organised. In Muszyna you leave the Poprad Valley and head for Krynica. On the way, you pass by the village of Powroźnik, with its wooden Lemko Orthodox church from 1600. Krynica-Zdrój is a famous spa situated at the foot of Jaworzyna Krynicka (1114 m asl). You can reach the top of this mountain by cable railway. On the slope there is a ski resort. The main attraction of the town centre are the impressive old wooden villas. One of them houses the museum of Nikifor Krynicki, a famous primitivist Lemko painter from the Low Beskids. 16 17
Around the Czchowskie and Rożnowskie Lakes Church in Tropie, UMWM photo archive Czchowskie Lake, photo by S. Gacek The main road from Nowy Sącz to Brzesko cuts across very picturesque lands. Right after passing Tęgoborze village you drive into the mountain pass of St. Just (400 m asl), which is a perfect vantage point. Another local tourist attraction is the church of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the second half of the 17 th century, which is situated over the mountain pass. Further, the road leads to the Czchowskie Lake. Right above it, on a steep rock sits the Tropsztyn Castle. A few kilometres further up north of Czchów, the remains of another castle appear in the form of a massive tower. In the town itself you can visit the market square with wooden houses and a church from the 13 th century. Another temple from this period, the church of Sts. Svorad and Benedict, can be found in the nearby village of Tropie. Side roads lead from Tropie to Rożnów, which boasts a 16 th -century bastion. A little bit further, the valley is divided by a concrete dam, thanks to which the Rożnowskie Lake was formed. The scenic routes lead from Rożnów through Gródek by the Dunajec river, high over the eastern slopes of the lake in the direction of Nowy Sącz. The whole route is about 75 km long. Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba At the foot of the Low Beskids Travelling from Nowy Sącz to the east, in the direction of the Beskid hills, it is worth paying a visit to the biggest heritage park in Małopolska, i.e. Sądecki Ethnographic Park. The most interesting village in the Low Beskids is Łosie, once famous for the production of grease (used as a medication or lubricant). Today the Lemko culture and the travels of greasers from Łosie in particular, is portrayed at a permanent exhibition and along the walking trail. Near Łosie the Ropa River is separated with a dam, which creates the Klimkówka Lake (conducive to windsurfing). In the Ropa Valley, 34 km from Nowy Sącz, lies the town of Szymbark, known for its interesting heritage park and the manor of the Gładysz family, a fortified gentry residence from the 16 th century. A few kilometres further, in Gorlice, you may wish to see the manor house of the Karwacjan family from the 15 th century, and a monument of the first street oil lamp, commemorating its inventor, Ignacy Łukasiewicz, who was born in Gorlice. Sądecki Ethnographic Park, ul. Wieniawy Długoszewskiego 83b, \ +48 18 5331823, / www.muzeum.sacz.pl; May Sept, Tue Sun 10am 6pm; Oct Apr, Mon Fri 10am 2pm; PLN 12, concessions: PLN 7, Sat: admission free. The Prof. Roman Reinfuss Heritage Park of Pogórzańska Village in Szymbark, / www.gorlice. art.pl; May Sept, Tue Fri 9am 5pm, Sat Sun 9am 6pm; Oct Apr, Mon Fri 9am 3pm; PLN 4 and PLN 7, concessions: PLN 2 and PLN 4, Thu: admission free. 18 19
A weekend around Zakopane A view on Giewont, photo by J. Gorlach Zakopane is a place where you cannot run out of things to do. The same goes for its surrounding areas, particularly the majestic Tatra Mountains, which are a perfect tourist destination in the summer and winter. In the town itself you can find the original, wooden Podhale-style buildings. Taking a trip through Podhale, which is one of the most important tourist regions in Poland, you can encounter many precious monuments, e.g. a small UNESCOlisted church in Dębno Podhalańskie, as well as the great castles in Czorsztyn and Niedzica, which lie above the waters of the Czorsztyńskie Lake. (In the summer swimming areas are created around the lake along with places where you can hire water sports equipment.) The biggest attraction of Pieniny is rafting down the Dunajec river gorge. Water forcing its way through rocky walls creates an unforgettable landscape. In the winter, Zakopane offers high-quality ski slopes, including the famous runs on the slopes of Kasprowy Wierch, Gubałówka, Szymoszkowa, and Antałówka. Other local towns also known among ski lovers are Białka Tatrzańska and Kluszkowce. When you are finished skiing, you can have a rest in the modern, recently opened baths with thermal waters. Such baths can also be found in Zakopane, Bukowina Tatrzańska and in Biały Dunajec. Cable car to Kasprowy Wierch, photo by J. Gorlach Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains Visiting Zakopane is a perfect opportunity to learn about the wooden architecture of Podhale highlanders, and to see the beautiful villas in Zakopane style, which was inspired by the folklore of this region. It is worth visiting the Koliba villa, housing the Museum of Zakopane Style. Other unique examples of the Zakopane style include the Pod Jedlami villa and the charming chapel in Jaszczurówka designed by Stanisław Witkiewicz, the creator of the Zakopane style. In the vicinity of Krupówki, a famous Zakopane promenade, there is the grand building of the Tatra Museum devoted to the mountains, the Podhale folklore and the history of the exploration of the Tatra Mountains. You can also find many churches and monasteries in Zakopane. However, most pilgrims go to the sanctuary of our Lady of Fatima in Krzeptówki, which is run by the Pallotines and strongly linked with John Paul II. Before you travel from Zakopane to the Tatra Mountains, it is worth taking a funicular railway to the top of Gubałówka (1120 m asl). This picturesque mountain ridge emerges from the north of Zakopane, just on the opposite side of the Giewont peak. Another way to admire the mountain panorama is to 20 21
take a ride on a cable car from Kuźnice to Kasprowy Wierch (1985 m asl). The most beautiful lake in the Tatra Mountains is Morskie Oko, lying at the foot of the highest peak in Poland, Rysy (2499 m asl). The lake can be reached by a 10 km asphalt road, also frequented by horse buses. The best place to stop by and take a rest after an exhausting hike is a newly built water park at the foot of Antałówka, which offers thermal water baths. Tatra Museum in Zakopane Main Building, ul. Krupówki 10, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2015205, / www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl; Wed Sat 9am 5pm, Sun 9am 3pm; PLN 7, concessions: PLN 5.50. The Museum of Zakopane Style, ul. Kościeliska 18, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2013602, / www.muzeumtatrzańskie. com.pl; as above. Funicular Rail Gubałówka, ul. Na Gubałówkę, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2014830, / www.pkl.pl; rides: July Aug, 8am 9.45pm; Jan June and Sept, 9am 8pm; Oct, 9am 7pm; Nov Dec, 9am 6pm; one way in high season: PLN 10, return: PLN 15, concessions: PLN 8 and PLN 12. Cableway to Kasprowy Wierch, Kuźnice, \ +48 18 2014510, / www.pkl.pl; rides: return; Jul Aug, 7.30am 7pm; Apr Jun and Sept Oct, 7.30am 4pm; March, 7.30am 3.30pm; Feb, 7.30am 3pm; Nov-Jan, 7.30 am 2pm; one way in high season: PLN 32, return: PLN 42, concessions: PLN 27 and PLN 32. Aqua Park Zakopane thermal baths, ul. Jagiellońska 31, \ +48 18 202 5815, / www.aquapark.zakopane.pl; daily, 9am 10pm; PLN 13-60. A view on Morskie Oko, UMWM photo archive Chochołów, UMWM photo archive Through Podhale and Orawa Podhale, one of the most beautiful regions of Poland, stretches at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. Several dozen years ago, all villages in Podhale only featured wooden cottages with shingled roofs. At present, only the village of Chochołów, situated 20 km from Zakopane, retained its character. Some of the cottages in Chochołów were built of massive timber logs, so that the entire wall was made up of only two thick beams! From Chochołów you may go through the extensive peat bogs and flatlands of Kotlina Nowotarska until you reach the Orawa region. Travelling through Czarny Dunajec and Jabłonka, you will get to the village of Orawka, with a wooden, Gothic church from 1656. The folk buildings of the Orawa region do not resemble the architecture of Podhale, which you can observe in the heritage park in Zubrzyca Górna, displaying numerous cottages in Orawa style, with wyżka, a chamber in the attic. A tremendous massif of Babia Góra (1725 m asl), referred to as the Queen of the Beskids, looms over Orawa. It is also the highest peak of the Beskids. A trek to the peak is not very demanding, as the road from Zubrzyca Górna takes you up to the height of 1000 m, to the Krowiarki pass. This trail leads through the area of Babia Góra National Park, and the walk to Babia Góra takes approx. 2 hrs 30 minutes. Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna, \ +48 18 285 2709, / www.orawa.eu; daily, May Sept, 8.30am 5pm; Oct Apr, 8.30am 2.30pm; PLN 18, concessions: PLN 12. 22 23
Tatra National Park, UMWM photo archive It is worth making some stops on the way to or from Zakopane. In Chabówka, situated 40 km away from Zakopane, there is the Rolling Stock Heritage Park with historic carriages and engines. From Chabówka you can go through Jordanów to Sucha Beskidzka (33 km). This town is famous for a beautiful renaissance castle, proudly bearing the name of a small Wawel owing to the charm of arcaded cloisters at the courtyard. In the centre of Sucha there is an 18 th century wooden tavern named Rzym (Rome), presently a restaurant. Rolling Stock Heritage Park in Chabówka, \ +48 18 267 6200, / www.parowozy.pl; daily, 7am 7pm; PLN 5, concessions: PLN 2.5, tour with a guide: PLN 20. Municipal Museum in Sucha Beskidzka castle, ul. Zamkowa 1, \ +48 33 874 2605, / www. muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl; May Oct, Tue Fri 9am 5pm, Sat Sun 10am 6pm; Nov Apr, Tue Fri 8am 4pm; Sat Sun 9am 3pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4. Sucha Beskidzka castle photo by P. Marekwica Oscypek cheese, UMWM photo archive Redyk herding, UMWM photo archive Through Podhale in search of oscypek For centuries, the highlanders in Podhale have pastured sheep on grazing lands, situated high up in the mountains. Today, one of the symbols of Podhale, and the most famous regional delicacy is oscypek, i.e. a smoked, hard sheep s cheese. There is a special Oscypek Route which leads through the Podhale. It enables you to visit bacówki (shepherd s huts) in which local specialties are produced, including oscypek, a spicy bryndza (ewe s milk cheese) and other delicacies made of sheep s milk. In the surroundings of Zakopane it is worth going for a walk to the picturesque valleys of the Tatra Mountains: Kościeliska and Chochołowska. In both of them you will find huts producing oscypek, and along the way you can admire the landscape of the limestone Western Tatras. Oscypek is also produced in Gorce. This mountain range, which includes Gorczański National Park, is rarely visited by the tourists, while a beautiful, extensive Hala Długa (Long Pasture) at the foot of Turbacz (1310 m asl) is one of the places where a shepherd hut producing oscypek can be found. You can climb it from Kowaniec (district of Nowy Targ) or from Łopuszna village, which is a less attended trail. In Łopuszna it is also worth seeing a wooden church from the second half of the 15 th century, and an 18 th century manor house of the Tetmajer family, now housing an interesting Museum of Gentry Culture. Information about Oscypek Route: / www.tatry.pl. Muzeum Kultury Szlacheckiej (Museum of Gentry Culture), ul. Gorczańska 2, Łopuszna, \ +48 18 2653919; Wed Sun 10am 4pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.50. 24 25
Rafting down Dunajec gorge, photo by T. Gębuś View from the peak of Sokolica, photo by D. Zaród Czorsztyn Lake, photo by J. Gorlach Rafting down the Dunajec gorge to Pieniny The wonderful scenery of the Dunajec river gorge in Pieniny, with 300-metre rocks makes an unforgettable impression. Rafting on Dunajec between Sromowce and Krościenko is one of the most unique tourist attractions in Małopolska; therefore, it is worth coming here from Zakopane, even though it is a distance of 55 km. Tourist routes through the Pieniny National Park lead to vantage points on the peaks of Sokolica and Trzy Korony (Three Crowns) (982 m asl), Pieniny s highest mountain. A nearby town of Szczawnica is an old spa with numerous mineral sources, historic wooden spa buildings, and a cable car to the Palenica peak (719 m asl), from which you can take a trip along the picturesque mountain range of Małe Pieniny. In the neighbouring Jawory, you can find small charming nature reserves: Homole Gorge and Biała Woda Gorge. Rafting on Dunajec The Polish Association of Pieniny Rafters, \ +48 18 2629721, / www.flisacy.com.pl; rafts operate from Apr Oct; booking desks are open daily: May Aug, 8.30am 5pm; Sept, 8.30am 4pm; Apr, 9am 4pm; Oct, 9am 3pm; to Szczawnica: PLN 44, concessions: PLN 22; to Krościenko: PLN 53, concessions: PLN 26.50. Cable car - Palenica, ul. Główna 7, Szczawnica, \ +48 18 262199, / www.pkl.pl; Jul Aug and Jan Feb, 9am 7.30pm; May Jun, 9am 18.30pm; Sept, 9am 6pm; March Apr and Oct, 9am 5.30pm; Nov, 9am 4.30pm; Dec, 9am 3.30pm; in high season: one way: PLN 8, return: PLN 12. Around Czorsztyn Lake At the foot of Pieniny and Gorce stretches a picturesque Czchowskie Lake. On the lake shore you can find beaches and water sports equipment rentals; sailing in such scenery is a pure pleasure! On the southern side of the lake, just above the dam that separates Dunajec and that contributed to the creation of the lake, towers the castle in Niedzica. This building was used as a watchtower on the Polish-Hungarian border that used to run here. On the opposite side of Nidzica, on the steep hill, you will find the ruins of the castle in Czorsztyn. This fortress used to guard the Dunajec crossing, and today it is adapted for sightseeing and constitutes a perfect vantage point. On the opposite edge of the lake it is worth visiting a picturesque Dębno Podhalańskie village. The church of St. Michael the Archangel that can be found here is a masterpiece from 1480, created by carpenter craftsmen. It is also one out of four wooden churches in Małopolska inscribed on the UNESCO list. Museum of the Castle Complex in Niedzica, \ +48 18 2629489; May Sep, daily 9am 7pm; Oct Nov, Tue Sun 9am 4pm; PLN 9, concessions: PLN 7; visits only with a guide; ticket price includes a visit to a tower and a coach house. The Ruins of the Czorsztyn Castle, May Sep, daily 9am 6pm; Oct Apr, Tue Sun 10am 3pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2. 26 27
Punkty Informacji Turystycznej Małopolska Tourist Information System Points KraKów InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków \+48 513 099 688, it.krakow@msit.malopolska.pl InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków \+48 12 421 77 87 InfoKraków Os. Słoneczne 16, 31-958 Kraków \+48 12 643 03 03 InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków \+48 12 422 04 71 InfoKraków Sukiennice, Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków \+48 12 433 73 10 InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach, ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków \+48 12 263 60 64 InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, 31-024 Kraków \+48 12 432 01 10 InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 \+48 12 616 18 86 InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice \+48 12 285 53 41 Myślenice Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice \+48 12 272 23 12, it.myslenice@msit.malopolska.pl wiśniowa Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa \+48 12 271 44 93, it.wisniowa@msit.malopolska.pl Dobczyce ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce \+48 12 271 01 53, it.dobczyce@msit.malopolska.pl olkusz ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz \+48 32 72 43 282, it.olkusz@msit.malopolska.pl Miechów Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów \+48 41 383 13 11, it.miechow@msit.malopolska.pl Tarnów Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów \+48 14 688 90 90, it.tarnow@msit.malopolska.pl Tuchów ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów \+48 14 652 54 36, it.tuchow@msit.malopolska.pl Dąbrowa TarnowsKa ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska \+48 14 657 00 07, it.dabrowatarnowska@msit.malopolska.pl wadowice ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice \+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit. malopolska.pl andrychów Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów \+48 33 842 99 36, it.andrychow@msit.malopolska.pl sucha beskidzka ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka \+48 33 874 26 05, it.sucha-beskidzka@msit.malopolska.pl oświęcim ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim \+48 33 843 00 91, it.oswiecim@msit.malopolska.pl chrzanów Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów \+48 32 623 20 44, it.chrzanow@msit.malopolska.pl Trzebinia ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia \+48 32 612 14 97, it.trzebinia@msit.malopolska.pl zakopane ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane \+48 18 201 20 04, it.zakopane@msit.malopolska.pl poronin ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin \+48 18 207 42 98, it.poronin@msit.malopolska.pl witów Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów \+48 18 207 18 98, it.witow@msit.malopolska.pl biały Dunajec ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec \+48 18 200 16 90, it.bialy-dunajec@msit.malopolska.pl białka TaTrzańsKa ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska \+48 18 533 19 59, it.bialka-tatrzanska@msit.malopolska.pl nowy Targ Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ \+48 18 266 30 36, it.nowy-targ@msit.malopolska.pl rabka-zdrój ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój \+48 18 269 15 53, it.rabka-zdroj@msit.malopolska.pl nowy sącz ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz \+48 18 444 24 22, it.nowy-sacz@msit.malopolska.pl Krynica-zDrój ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój \+48 18 472 55 77, it.krynica-zdroj@msit.malopolska.pl limanowa Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa \+48 18 337 58 00, it.limanowa@msit.malopolska.pl biecz Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz \+48 13 447 92 47, it.biecz@msit.malopolska.pl sękowa Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa \+48 18 351 87 70, it.sekowa@msit.malopolska.pl