Subject: Pm Men s Wear 1 Unit 1 Introduction to Pattern Making Learning Objectives Quadrant 1 E-Text The learning objectives of this unit are: Distinguish Men s wear. Describe men s wear patterns. Identify various body types for men. Recall appropriate terms used in pattern making. List standard measurements used in various body types for pattern making. Match a tool for an appropriate function. 1.1 Introduction to Men s Wear Men s wear has traditionally, been simple and straight forward, however, in recent years, men s styling has changed significantly due to male consumers increased desire for a new modern style. This makes it necessary, to identity the need for a tool to facilitate a more comprehensive understanding of men s wear styling details, compared to the tools used in women s wear. Although men s wear traditionally employed relatively simple designs, and silhouettes, compared to women s wear, rapid changes in fashion trends began to claim an ever growing share of the men s wear market. This trend dramatically influenced industry standards, and created a heightened awareness among male consumers, creating interest in male fashion and appearance. Thus, the marketing strategy for men s wear became more detailed and fashion oriented, and the modern style niche was born. Obviously, men have a different body shape from women and thus, pattern for men cannot be altered using women s pattern making methods which dominate the pattern making reference market. Most noticeably, men s main fashion concerns vary greatly, from those of women.
Women s wear largely aims to make wearers look and feel petite and attractive, but men s wear strives to display a masculine appearance, even in the slim fit category. Moreover, the male anatomy presents several issues, such as the chest, broad shoulders, thick waists, and the genitals, each requiring their own unique pattern making methods. This course, addresses these issues. Measuring properly is often a challenge for learners, but this course addresses this problem by providing instructional pictures that illustrate key measurement locations. The key locations shown in the pictures allows candidates to measure properly on all body types. This course covers the principles of design details as they appear to men s wear, including items, such as necklines, sleeves, and plackets. Because men s wear pattern making is often taught after women s wear, learners already have a general knowledge about pattern making. As a result, design details are not explained again in relation to men s wear. This course enables learners to apply their men s wear skills to unlimited design concepts as designers have traditionally done with women s wear. Manual Pattern Making is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment parts For example, Front, Back, Yoke, sleeve, Cuffs etc., are constructed in the process of Design. This delivers the working plan to produce garment. The process involves taking measurements from a person s body, body form or standard measurement chart. The developing patterns can be by adopting various methods / techniques as per the suitability and convenience of garment variant. Pattern Drafting using actual body size or standard measurement chart derived from anthropometric studies Pattern Draping using standard body form of required size. Flat Pattern making using basic set of pattern slopers developed with standard measurements. In this course, the Pattern Draft technique will be used for developing the patterns. Flat sketches, unlike illustrations, provide better instruction by clearly showing details and accurate proportions. Flat sketches serve as a communication tool between design and pattern making.
Alphabetical instruction codes were developed in order to foster ease of use upon the text s as standard being used. Standard size 38 woven shirt and pants measurements being used are included. This will be useful to learners who are focused on practicing design details and technical pockets and who do not wish to develop personalized patterns. 1.2 Body Types A body type is the relationship of human body shape to body size. Every physical characteristic in a persons physique can be determining factor of his body type, whether it is height, weight or lower to upper body ratio, as well as the body weight appearance for individual body parts such as the shoulders, chest and abdomen. Body type classified a body shape in general, it is distinguished according to the different characteristics of men s and women s bodies as well. Compared to women s bodies, men s bodies are generally taller and have wider shoulders, narrower hips, a lower position of the waist, and a higher position of the knees. Additionally, the form of muscle and bone is more prominent because men typically, have less body fat than women. The distribution of body fat is more in the upper torso, rather than the lower torso and in the abdomen rather than the hips. Body types can vary drastically, by race and ethnicity as well. However, because of the diversity of different societies, that is, a mixture of different races and cultures, with each having a respective standard body shape. (Such as Euro-American, African-American, Hispanic and Asian.) Body Types Ectomorph (Slim) Features Lean Flat chest Small chest Body Types Mesomorph (Standard) Features: Well defined hard body Wider shoulder Bigger chest
Body Types Endomorph (Round) Features: Round physique Short and stocky Hip, waist and shoulder similar Body Chart Thus, in the industry, each clothing brand has a unique body chart that fits the self-concept of the brand. Typically, brands have developed the deployment for sizes, (for example, S, M, L, XL) in three groups based on height, significantly short, regular and tall. 1.3 Terminology Pattern Making is a highly developed technical skill, requiring precision in the drafting and development process. It also necessitates an understanding of body proportions and their measurements. Ease Allowance is the excess provided in the pattern for body movements based on fits. For example, slim fit, medium fit and loose fit. Seam is the joint that appears at every alignment of the garment parts. For example, armhole seam, side seam, shoulder seam etc., Seam Allowance The fabric margin allowed to be sewn to make a seam. For example, joining of front and back at sides of the garment. Dart is a cone-shaped piece of fabric that is sewn together, tapering to a point, to fit the body. Dart Allowance is the excess provided to form a dart. For example, waist-dart at the back leg of the trouser. Dart Intake is the amount of excess provided to stitch a dart.
Dart Legs are the lines that indicate the sew line of the dart. Vanishing Point is the point where the stitch line of the dart ends. Dart Cap is the shape that appears after truing of the dart. Pleats are overlapping fabric that is un-pressed to fall softly or partially stitched for a crisp finish to provide ease. Cap Ease is the excess provided in the sleeve pattern to accommodate smooth armhole curve. Cap Height is the depth provided from sleeve top to bicep. Armhole is the round opening where sleeve is sewn. Bicep is the upper arm, also called muscle. Elbow is the circumference of the sleeve at elbow level. Wrist is the circumference of the sleeve at the wrist level. Blending is the process to blend two angular lines into a smooth line. Trueing is the process of joining two or more markings on the pattern or fabric. Selvedge is the two finished edges in a fabric to avoid raveling of the yarn. Grain Lines correspond to the weave of fabrics. Length grains are parallel to the selvage of the fabric and are perpendicular to the floor. They are called the Warp. Cross grains are perpendicular to the selvage and parallel to the floor. These are called the Weft. Bias Grain is the off grain with various angles to the selvedge. True Bias is also off grain with 45 degree angle to the selvedge. Notch is a short ¼ line, or notch, positioned on seams, fold lines, balancing of parts etc., Horizontal Balance Line (HBL) is the line provided on the pattern to control the balance of the garment. Side Seam is situated at the sides of the garments. For example, shirts side seam trouser side seam etc., In Seam is the seam that is located under the arms and legs. For example, underarm of the sleeve and in-leg of the trouser. Placket is the finished edge of the front opening, sleeve opening etc.,
For example, front placket, sleeve placket etc., Collar is a piece of fabric of various sizes and shapes sewn into the neckline of a garment. Collar Band is the part of the collar which allows to take the role of the collar. Cuff is the part of the sleeve given to encircle the wrist of the arm. Yoke is a separate seamed portion of the garment across the front and back shoulder. Opening is a functional means of getting into a garment. 1.4 Standard Measurements The measurements are in proportion in respect to age. This can be categorized by height and girth. This chart gives the standard measurement being used in Ready-to-wear garments, in India. 1.5 Supplies And Tools Used In Pattern Making and Their Applications Pattern paper Muslin fabric Pencils ( Preferably regular pencils) Erasers Cello tape Sharpener Push pins Draping pins Measure Tape Foot Ruler (2 Foot ruler and 4 Foot ruler) L Scale Set Square (45/90degree) Paper Scissors 6 (Fiskars) Fabric Scissors 10 (Metal) Trimmer French curve Hip Curve Tracing Wheel
Notch Plyer Awl Seam ripper Stapler 1.5 Conclusion To summarize, in this unit, you have been given an overview of Men s wear. This unit reviewed the different body types, as well as frequently used terms in pattern making. The module on standard measurements focused on the measurements used for various body types. Finally, the module on supplies and tools explored the applications of various tools used in pattern making.