ExxonMobil Chemical Synthetics Division Chemistries for Personal Care PureSyn Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
ph Stability of PureSyn PAO High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids Do not react with acid or base Stable across entire ph range Ideal for formulations containing: AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products) Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)
Non-Comedogenic All of the PureSyn TM PAO and Ester products are non-comedogenic. Will not clog pores Also non-irritating Substitute for petrolatum and other comedogenic emollients, for example isopropyl myristate oleyl alcohol safflower oil others
Oil-Free Formulations PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure with some properties similar to mineral oil. Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can have an oil-free distinction. Ingredient list on the formulated product package would have INCI designation: Hydrogenated polydecene Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers Polydecene
Broad range of Spreadability PureSyn TM PAO and Esters PureSyn products cover the entire range of spreadability. From very fast to slow Formulations can be designed with cascading effects by combining components. May enhance sunscreen performance by providing tailored spreading on skin. Wide range of emollient properties.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Reduction (PureSyn TM PAO and Esters) Certain PureSyn TM products significantly reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum. Higher molecular weights provide most protection Provide water retention in skin and barrier protection. May enhance retention of active ingredients in upper skin layers.
Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation Flexibility PureSyn TM PAO and Esters Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of commonly used cosmetic substances. Including organic sunscreen active ingredients Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3 May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients Selected products have silicone compatibility, especially with dimethicones. May lead to: improved aesthetics reduced silicone in formulation Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.
Other Key Personal Care Characteristics PureSyn TM PAO and Esters Non-greasy with good skin feel Provide emolliency Possess glossing characteristics May provide water resistance properties Film formation Will not suppress foam like silicones
PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO) Synthetic high performance functional fluids Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon atoms Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched (compared to mineral oil) molecules of predetermined chain length
PAO Chemistry Linear Oligomerization Hydrogenation Linear Alphaolefins Oligomerization Hydrogenation PAO
PAO Chemistry - Oligomerization H 2 C CH H 2 C CH C 2 H 5 H 2 C H 2 C CH CH n-c 4 H 9 n-c 6 H 13 H 2 C CH 2 n-c 8 H 17 H 2 C H 2 C H 2 C CH CH CH n-c 10 H 21 n-c 12 H 25 n-c 14 H 30 1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=... Dimers Trimers Tetramers Pentamers Hexamers Heptamers Octomers..... Ethylene Linear Alphaolefin Polyalphaolefins
PAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation H H Hydrogen
New PAO Technology Conventional PureSyn PAO New, Patented PureSyn PAO Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons Average Side Chain of 8 carbons
PureSyn PAO Typical Properties Properties Method 2 4 6 Sp.Grav. @ 15.6 o C D 4052 0.798 0.820 0.827 Brookfield Viscosity @ 25 o C, cps Est. 6 30 50 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C, cst D 445 1.7 4.1 5.7 @ 40 C, cst D 445 5.0 18 30 Viscosity Index D 2270 NA 131 134 Pour Point, C D 97-66 -63-54 Flash Point, C D 92 154 221 243 Color, APHA D 1209 10 10 10
PureSyn PAO Typical Properties Properties Method 150 300 Sp.Grav. @ 15.6 o C D 4052 0.850 0.852 Brookfield Viscosity @ 25 o C, cps Est. 2900 6200 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C, cst D 445 150 300 @ 40 C, cst D 445 1,500 3,100 Viscosity Index D 2270 218 241 Pour Point, C D 97-33 -27 Flash Point, C D 92 >265 >265 Color, APHA D 1209 30 30
CTFA INCI Nomenclature PureSyn 2-6, 150-300 = Hydrogenated C6-14 Polyalphaolephins CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name
Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes Product Japan Code Japan Ingredient Name PureSyn 2 N/A N/A PureSyn 4 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 6 502029 Alpha-olefin Oligomer PureSyn 100 300 N/A N/A
PureSyn PAO Benefits Can be variously characterized as: High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids Wide viscosity range of products Stable in high and low ph systems Non-oily, Non-greasy Broad spreadability range Non-comedogenic Bright and clear Non-irritating
PureSyn PAO Functions May be well-suited for use as: Emollients/Lubricants Water resistant agents Occlusive barrier for moisturization Film formers Stable carrier fluids Solubilizers Glossing Agents
PureSyn PAO Personal Care Formulations Can be readily incorporated into: Cosmetics AHA/BHA Products Lotions and Creams Sunscreens Moisturizers Hair Relaxers Antiperspirant/ Gels Water-in Oil Emulsions Deodorants
Additional PureSyn PAO Properties Solubilities Solubility Parameters Lin Water solubilization Carbomer dispersion Surface tension Refractive Index HLB (Required) values
Definition of Solubility Parameter The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics of one material with another. It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc) 0.5. This parameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in many diverse systems. It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic materials in formulated products. The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential problem interactions. A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc) 0.5, they are miscible.
PureSyn PAO - Solubility Parameters: Fedors Correlation Product Solubility Parameter (cal/cc) 0.5 PureSyn 2 7.99 PureSyn 4 8.09 PureSyn 6 8.14 PureSyn 150 8.38 PureSyn 300 8.38
PureSyn PAO Surface Tension Measurements Product Dynes/cm (24 C) PureSyn 2 28.0 PureSyn 4 29.1 PureSyn 6 29.8 PureSyn 150 30.7 PureSyn 300 30.4 Measurement Procedure; PureSyn 2-100; Wilhelmy Plate Method PureSyn 150-3000; Spinning Drop Method
PureSyn PAO Refractive Indices Product @ 25 o C PureSyn 2 1.4418 PureSyn 4 1.4535 PureSyn 6 1.4565 PureSyn 150 1.4695 PureSyn 300 1.4707 Mineral Oils 1.4670-1.4900
PureSyn PAO Potential Attributes in Personal Care Applications Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to customize skin feel. Stable over a broad ph range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high ph hair relaxers. Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones. Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care formulations. Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO) in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal water loss.
PureSyn PAO (2-6) ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and polybutene. PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously characterized as: Non-comedogenic Non-irritating Odorless Stable in high and low ph systems When combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.
Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn 3E20 Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt% A DC 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone 40.25 A Hansicone Ultrabee Dimethiconol Beeswax 5.00 A PureSyn 3E20 Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 5.00 A Stearyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol 18.00 A Crodafos CES Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate 0.50 A Peg 6000 Distearate PEG-150 Distearate 2.00 A Myrj 59 PEG-100 Stearate 2.00 A Synchrowax Erl-C C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester 1.00 B Cabosil M-5 Silica 0.75 B Reach Azp 908 Suf Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY 24.00 C TALC 127 WC&D (Talc) Talc 1.00 D Fragrance MF 8038 Fragrance 0.50 100.00 Blending Procedure 1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80 C 2. Stop heating and add phase B 3. Homomix while allowing to cool 4. Add remaining phases at 60 C 5. Pour at 55 C to 60 C
Anhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with PureSyn 6 This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin. It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel Phase Ingredient INCI Designation Wt% A DC 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone 33.7 A Bentone Gel VS-5 PC Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 He 20 B PureSyn 6 Hydrogenated Polydecene 20 C REZAL 36GP Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly 20 C TALC 338 Talc 2 D DC193 Surfactant Dimethicone Copolyol 4 D Fragrance Fragrance 0.3 Total 100 Blending Procedure 1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.) 2. Add phase B & C 3. Mix phase D together and add to batch 4. Mix on Silverson until uniform