An Overview Tommy Tsui Certified Gemmologist (Diamond), Certified Gemmologist (Fei Cui) HighCert (Jewelry Design), Executive Diploma in Mgnt (Jewelry) (PolyU) DGA (UK), FGA (UK), FGAHK, FHKICA Laboratory Director, Luk Fook Holdings Ltd
Presentation Content 1) Basic Concepts of Jewellery Craftsmanship 2) Key Attributes of Jewellery Quality 3) Jewellery Quality Management System 4) Summary & View Sharing
1) Basic Concepts of Jewellery Craft based Production System Jewellery production system is composed of series of craftsmanship intensive processes. Specialties of jewellery craftsmanship Jewellery craftsmanship can hardly be explicitly described & fully expressed by words: a kind of tacit know how. Jewellery craftsmanship is gained through learn bydoing (making) approach in a master & apprentice system.
1) Key Concepts of the Nature & Attributes of Jewellery Craftsmanship* Free Craftsmanship (hand craftsmanship): The master model maker translates the designer s visual drawing into a master piece of jewellery with a high level hand craftsmanship, i.e. free craftsmanship, with his artistic sense & imagination. * Siu, Norman W.C. (2001) Design in the Hong Kong Jewellery Industry: The Transformation of Labour intensive Production through Value added Craftsmanship. PhD Thesis, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong.
1) Key Concepts of the Nature & Attributes of Jewellery Craftsmanship* Regulated Craftsmanship (hand craftsmanship): The well trained skilled craft workers operate the fabrication processes with regulated craftsmanship : gold casting, metal filing, gemstone setting, electroplating and polishing etc. * Siu, Norman W.C. (2001) Design in the Hong Kong Jewellery Industry: The Transformation of Labour intensive Production through Value added Craftsmanship. PhD Thesis, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong.
1) Key Concepts of the Nature & Attributes of Jewellery Craftsmanship* Digital Craftsmanship: The well trained Digital Goldsmith with a digital craftsmanship use CAD/CAM software & operate the rapid prototype machine in making RP models for casting and reproduction. * Siu, Norman W.C. (2001) Design in the Hong Kong Jewellery Industry: The Transformation of Labour intensive Production through Value added Craftsmanship. PhD Thesis, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong.
1) Key Concepts of the Nature & Attributes of Jewellery Craftsmanship Management of Craft based Production Process : All the jewellery production operations demand a high level of craftsmanship: free craftsmanship, regulated craftsmanship & digital craftsmanship. The skill, judgment and experience of the craftsmen, craft worker and digital goldsmith are very important factors in the control of the quality of the final products.
2) Key Attributes of Jewellery Quality Specification of quality attributes of jewellery materials : Gold and other precious metals: ISO Standards of content of precious metal alloys Pure Gold Au999.9 Karat gold Au 916, Au750, Au585 Platinum Pt999.5, Pt999, Pt950, Pt900, Pt850 Quality control testes by technical methods: Fire Assay, ICP or ED X ray. Quality gatekeeper : engineer and technician
2) Key Attributes of Jewellery Quality Specification of quality attributes of jewellery materials : Diamond: 4Cs (Carat, Colour, Clarity, Cut) Diamond sorting & grading process with 4C standard Quality gatekeeper : gemmologist and professional graders, e.g. Certified Gemmologist (Diamond)
2) Key Attributes of Jewellery Quality Specification of quality attributes of jewellery materials Gemstones: identification of Fei Cui: natural vs chemical treatment and colour dyed identification of coloured stones : natural vs synthetic and artificial treatment Quality gatekeeper : gemmologist and professional graders, e.g. Certified Gemmologist (Fei Cui)
3) Jewellery Quality Management System Quality control in the key process of hand fabrication of metal Check the gold after melting or casting to ensure the gold content Check the defaults or deforming piece induced by casting or other production processes to reduce the defect rate at every production stage, and to ensure good metal for finishing process Quality keeper craftsman and quality controller
3) Jewellery Quality Management System Testing of every piece of processed items (quality assurance in each department) taking jewellery samples set with diamond, gemstones and gold mountings for random check at every stage of production to ensure the quality and prevent switch by worker regular checking the tools and machine to maintain them in good condition Quality gatekeeper : quality controller, technologist and engineers.
4) Summary & View Sharing Jewellery Quality Management System is a very special Craft based QMS model. Jewellery QMS is sustained by the totality of QAs in all the departmentalized production sub systems. A human centered system: highly reliance on human factor, i.e. gatekeeper s skill and judgment. Supplemented by high technology equipment to conduce scientific analysis of contents of fabricated metals, gemstone identification etc.
4) Summary & View Sharing Continuous Improvement & Challenges Continue to get a perfect balance of craftsmanship and operation standardization Decoding and articulation of craft know how attributes for the modules of internal training programme Setting a CPD oriented career development path for the internal staff
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