INTRODUCTION TO LOTION MAKING

1 INTRODUCTION TO LOTION MAKING Table of Contents INTRODUCTION TO LOTION MAKING 9 THE BASICS OF LOTION MAKING LOTION: AN EXAMPLE RECIPE AN EXAMPLE RECIPE WHAT YOU LL NEED TO MAKE LOTION (EQUIPMENT AND CONCEPTS) EQUIPMENT THE DOUBLE BOILER THE DIFFERENT PHASES BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A LOTION (THE HEAT & HOLD METHOD) GOOD MANUFACTURING PROCESSES SOME TIPS ON LOTION MAKING SOME TIPS ON BOTTLING YOUR LOTION SOME TIPS ON INTERPRETING RECIPES AND INCREASING BATCH SIZE INTERPETING THE INCI NAME OF YOUR INGREDIENTS BASIC LOTION RECIPE BASIC LOTION RECIPE Oils Butters Emulsifier Water. Preservative. Thickener Fragrance Skin loving goodies HUMECTANTS ARE A GIRL S BEST FRIEND MODIFIED BASIC LOTION RECIPE WITH HUMECTANTS TWEAKING THE BASIC RECIPES SUNFLOWER & SHEA LOTION AVOCADO & MANGO LOTION BASIC CREAM RECIPE RECIPE FOR A THICKER FOOT CREAM BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE MODIFIED TO BE DRIER FEELING BASIC LIGHT LOTION RECIPE BASIC LIGHT LOTION RECIPE BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE 10 10 12 12 13 13 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 20 20 20 21 21 22 22 23 24 24 26 26 27 28 28 30 33

2 THE CHEMISTRY OF LOTIONS EMULSIFICATION: WHAT S THAT THEN? WHAT DOES AN EMULSIFIER LOOK LIKE? EMULSIFYING WAX NF POLAWAX (non-ionic emulsifier) HOW MUCH POLAWAX TO USE INCROQUAT BTMS-50 (cationic emulsifier) AN ASIDE: HOW TO CALCULATE YOUR OIL PHASE THE ARGUMENT FOR HEATING & HOLDING OUR LOTIONS CHEMISTRY: PHASE INVERSION TEMPERATURE (OR PIT) CHEMISTRY: SOLUBILITY CHEMISTRY: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SOLUBLE AND DISPERSIBLE CHEMISTRY: WEIGHT VS. VOLUME CHEMISTRY: ANIONIC, CATIONIC, AND NON-IONIC CHEMISTRY: ph AND OUR SKIN S ACID MANTLE CHEMISTRY: OUR SKIN! CHEMISTRY: WHEN LOTIONS GO WRONG! COALESCENCE SEDIMENTATION OR CREAMING ENGULFMENT QUESTION: CAN I SAVE A SEPARATED LOTION? CHEMISTRY: EMOLLIENTS, OCCLUSION, AND HUMECTANTS EMOLLIENTS HUMECTANTS OCCLUSION 35 35 36 36 36 36 37 38 40 41 42 43 44 45 47 49 49 49 51 52 53 53 53 53 INGREDIENTS WE USE IN LOTIONS INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS - CARRIER OIL PROFILES APRICOT KERNEL OIL AVOCADO OIL CASTOR OIL COCONUT OIL FRACTIONATED COCONUT OIL MAKING A LIGHT LOTION WITH FRACTIONATED COCONUT OIL GRAPESEED OIL HAZELNUT OIL HEMP SEED OIL JOJOBA OIL SHAVING LOTION WITH JOJOBA OIL MACADAMIA NUT OIL 55 56 56 57 58 60 62 62 65 67 68 70 71 73

3 OLIVE OIL FOOT CREAM WITH OLIVE OIL AND BUTTERS OLIVE OIL BODY BUTTER RICE BRAN OIL HAND LOTION WITH RICE BRAN OIL SESAME OIL SESAME OIL & SHEA BUTTER LOTION SOY BEAN OIL SOY BEAN OIL IN A BODY BUTTER SUNFLOWER OIL SWEET ALMOND OIL VIRGIN COCONUT OIL WHEAT GERM OIL INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS - BUTTER PROFILES COCOA BUTTER MANGO BUTTER MANGO BUTTER AND HAZELNUT LOTION SHEA BUTTER AN ASIDE: CAN I USE GROCERY STORE OILS IN MY PRODUCTS? AN ASIDE: WHY USE MORE THAN ONE OIL IN A LOTION? INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS - EXOTIC BUTTERS ILLIPE BUTTER MOWRAH BUTTER KOKUM BUTTER SAL BUTTER MURUMURU BUTTER BABASSU OIL INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS EXOTIC OILS BORAGE OIL CALENDULA OIL CAMELLIA OIL CARROT TISSUE OIL CRANBERRY OIL EVENING PRIMROSE OIL POMEGRANATE OIL PUMPKIN OIL ROSEHIP OIL SEA BUCKTHORN OIL AN ASIDE: HOW DO I KNOW WHEN TO ADD INGREDIENTS? INGREDIENTS: HUMECTANTS GLYCERIN SODIUM LACTATE SODIUM PCA (salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) HYDROVANCE ALOE VERA INGREDIENTS: THICKENING AGENTS 75 76 78 80 80 83 83 85 86 88 89 91 92 94 94 96 96 98 100 100 102 102 102 102 103 103 104 105 105 106 107 108 109 111 112 113 114 115 118 120 120 121 121 122 122 126

4 STEARIC ACID CETYL ALCOHOL AN ASIDE: CETYL ALCOHOL VS. STEARIC ACID CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETYL ESTERS INGREDIENTS: EXTRACTS ALLANTOIN CHRYSTANTHEMUM OR FEVERFEW EXTRACT COMFREY ROOT CUCUMBER EXTRACT GINSENG EXTRACT GRAPESEED EXTRACT GREEN TEA EXTRACT SHAVING LOTION MODIFIED TO INCLUDE GREEN TEA EXTRACT HONEYSUCKLE EXTRACT HORSETAIL EXTRACT LIQUORICE EXTRACT ORCHID EXTRACT PAPAYA EXTRACT ROSEMARY EXTRACT ST. JOHN S WORT STRAWBERRY EXTRACT WHITE WILLOW BARK WITCH HAZEL INGREDIENTS: HYDROSOLS Chamomile hydrosol Clary sage hydrosol Honeysuckle hydrosol Lavender hydrosol Melissa hydrosol Orange flower or orange blossom (neroli) hydrosol Peppermint hydrosol Rose hydrosol Rosemary hydrosol INGREDIENTS: SALICYLIC ACID (or BHAs) INGREDIENTS: ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs) INGREDIENTS: HYDROLYZED PROTEINS HYDROLYZED OAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZED SILK PROTEIN PHYTOKERATIN USING HYDROLYZED PROTEINS IN YOUR LOTIONS & CREAMS SHAVING LOTION SHAVING LOTION WITH HYDROLYZED PROTEINS USING HYDROLYZED PROTEINS IN BODY BUTTERS BASIC BODY BUTTER WITH OAT PROTEIN RECIPE INGREDIENTS: PANTHENOL 126 127 127 128 129 131 131 134 135 136 138 139 141 145 147 148 150 151 152 154 158 160 162 163 164 164 164 164 166 167 169 170 170 171 172 172 172 173 173 174

5 LOTION RECIPES HAND LOTION RECIPES HAND LOTION RECIPE FOR WINTER HAND LOTION RECIPE, modified for winter LESS GREASY HAND LOTION MODIFIED FOR WINTER WINTER TIME HAND LOTION, modified to be less greasy FORMULATING A DRIER FEELING HAND LOTION BASIC DRY FEELING HAND OR BODY LOTION DRIER FEELING LOTION WITH ASTRINGENT OILS AND BTMS- 50 BODY LOTION RECIPES BODY LOTION FOR WINTER MONTHS HAND LOTION RECIPE MODIFIED TO BE A BODY LOTION FOR SILLY WOMEN WHO REFUSE TO COVER UP IN THE WINTER BODY LOTION FOR DRY, AGING SKIN BODY LOTION FOR AGING, DRY SKIN MODIFIED LOTION FOR THE SUMMER BODY LOTION FOR SUMMER TIME CAMPING FUN! FORMULATING A SORT OF ALL NATURAL LOTION ANOTHER VERSION OF A SUMMER TIME BODY LOTION (A MORE NATURAL ONE) FORMULATING A SUMMER BODY LOTION IN A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT WAY ANOTHER VERSION OF A SUMMER TIME BODY LOTION BODY BUTTERS TWEAKING THE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE MODIFIED BODY BUTTER RECIPE USING ALLANTOIN IN BODY BUTTERS BODY BUTTER WITH ALLANTOIN AND HYDROLYZED PROTEINS BODY BUTTER SUITABLE FOR SUMMER SUMMER MODIFIED BODY BUTTER BODY BUTTER SUITABLE FOR WINTER MONTHS WINTER BODY BUTTER FOR WITH INCREASED BARRIER INGREDIENTS BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY, WINTER SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR DRY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR DRY SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR OILY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR OILY SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR BRUISED SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR BRUISED, DRY SKIN FOOT LOTIONS AND CREAMS MAKING A BASIC FOOT LOTION BODY LOTION MODIFIED TO BE A FOOT LOTION MAKING A THICKER FOOT CREAM RECIPE FOR A THICKER FOOT CREAM FOOT CREAM WITH DIMETHICONE FOOT CREAM FOR INTENSELY DAMAGED FEET INTENSELY MOISTURIZING FOOT CREAM FOR REALLY DAMAGED FEET WITH BTMS- 50 LIGHT LOTIONS 175 175 176 178 178 179 180 181 182 182 183 184 185 186 188 189 190 190 191 192 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 198 200 201 202 205 206 209 210 210 212 212 214 215 215 216 217 219 221

6 LIGHT, SPRAYABLE LOTION OR BODY MILKS LIGHT SPRAYABLE LOTION LIGHT, SPRAYABLE SUMMER LOTION MODIFIED LIGHT SPRAYABLE LOTION FOR THE SUMMER FACIAL MOISTURIZERS - GENERAL LIGHT FACIAL MOISTURIZER FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE WINTER TIME MOISTURIZER FACIAL MOISTURIZER WITH HEMP SEED AND MACADAMIA NUT OIL FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN MODIFIED FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN MODIFIED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN MOISTURIZERS FOR OILY SKINNED GIRLS MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL- FREE FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR OILY, RESISTANT SKIN MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL- FREE MOISTURIZER FOR ACNE PRONE OR ROSACEA TYPE SKIN MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL- FREE MOISTURIZER FOR OILY, AGING OR WRINKLED SKIN OIL FREE MOISTURIZER CATIONIC OIL FREE FACIAL MOISTURIZER SHAVING LOTIONS SHAVING LOTION USING EXTRACTS IN A SHAVING LOTION MODIFIED SHAVING LOTION WITH BOTANICAL EXTRACTS AFTER SHAVE LOTIONS AFTER SHAVE LOTION (for men & women) BASIC MOISTURIZING AFTER SHAVE RECIPE OR MEN S MOISTURIZER MODIFYING LOTIONS FOOT CREAM WITH AVOCADO OIL AND BUTTERS AN ASIDE: CAN I MAKE UP BATCHES OF PRODUCT AND SCENT IT LATER? 221 221 222 222 224 224 224 225 226 227 229 230 231 232 233 233 235 235 236 236 238 240 240 241 242 242 243 245 246 246 247 KEEPING YOUR LOTIONS SAFE: ANTI- OXIDANTS AND PRESERVATIVES CHEMISTRY: RANCIDITY: A PRIMER CHEMISTRY: MECHANISMS OF RANCIDITY OXIDATIVE RANCIDITY PHOTO-OXIDATION AUTO-OXIDATION HYDROLYTIC RANCIDITY MICROBIAL RANCIDITY CHEMISTRY: ANTI-OXIDANTS VITAMIN E VITAMIN C AN ASIDE: IS THERE ANY VALUE IN COMBINING ANTI-OXIDANTS? 249 250 250 250 250 251 251 252 252 252 253

7 CHEMISTRY: SEQUESTERING AND CHELATING AGENTS EDTA CITRIC ACID INTRODUCTION TO PRESERVATIVES PRESERVATIVES: WHAT MIGHT CONTAMINATE OUR LOTIONS Gram positive bacteria Gram negative bacteria Fungus How do we avoid contamination? PRESERVATIVES: HOW DO THEY WORK? PRESERVATIVES: FORMALDEHYDE DONORS PRESERVATIVES: CHEMICALS WE FIND IN OUR PRESERVATIVES ORGANIC ACIDS & SODIUM BENZOATE PARABENS IMIDIAZOLIDINYL AND DIAZOLIDINYL UREA PHENOXYETHANOL IODOPROPYNYL BUTYLCARBAMATE (IPBC) INGREDIENTS: PRESERVATIVES COSMOCIL CQ GEOGARD ULTRA GERMABEN II LIQUID GERMALL PLUS LIQUIPAR OIL LIQUIPAR OPTIMA LIQUIPAR PE MIKROKILL COS OPTIPHEN OPTIPHEN ND OR ROKONSAL ND OPTIPHEN PLUS PHENONIP SUTTOCIDE A TINOSAN SDC PRESERVATIVES: WHY GRAPEFRUIT SEED EXTRACT IS NOT A PRESERVATIVE PRESERVATIVES: INACTIVATION OF PRESERVATIVES BY OUR INGREDIENTS INACTIVATION BY NON-IONIC INGREDIENTS INACTIVATION BY PIGMENTS INACTIVATION BY CELLULOSE DERIVATIVES PRESERVATIVES: CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRESERVATIVE FOR YOUR PRODUCTS DETERMINING THE SHELF LIFE OF YOUR LOTION PACKAGING AND CONTAMINATION 254 254 255 257 259 260 261 261 263 264 265 266 267 267 268 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 282 282 282 283 284 285 288 APPENDICES: USEFUL INFORMATION ON OILS AND BUTTERS APPENDIX FATTY ACIDS 291

8 APPENDIX HYDROGENATION, FATTY ACID SHAPES, AND TRANS FATS HYDROGENATION FATTY ACID SHAPES CIS AND TRANS FATS APPENDIX FATTY ACIDS YOU MIGHT FIND IN OILS PALMITIC ACID STEARIC ACID LINOLEIC ACID OLEIC ACID GAMMA LINOLEIC ACID CONJUGATED LINOLEIC ACID AND CONJUGATED LINOLENIC ACID APPENDIX - OTHER THINGS YOU MIGHT FIND IN OILS AND BUTTERS VITAMIN E TOCOPHEROLS AND TOCOTRIENOLS POLYPHENOLS PHYTOSTEROLS A LITTLE INFORMATION ON MY YOUTH GROUPS AND YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS 293 293 293 294 295 295 295 295 297 298 299 301 301 301 303 305