Dinoot Trailer Building Overview Revision 1.3 01/30/16

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Dinoot Trailer Building Overview Revision 1.3 01/30/16 Dinoot trailers are a straightforward DIY project which can be completed with basic tools; although a few optional tools make things easier and faster. Think of it similar to an Ikea kit where you have to drill your own holes, do a little trimming and have the flexibility to tailor the finished product to your specific wants / needs. Whether built as a Gear Hauler or Tent Topped Camper, Dinoot s are easily tailored to meet your needs, planned usage and budget. Before building, you need to decide which model you would like. There are currently two models; the J-Series and M-Series. The J-Series has distinct Jeep styling cues and is available in two sizes. The M-series has classic M416 military trailer styling and is easily shortened for custom length tubs.

This is meant as a general Building One overview, a detailed Assembly Guide is included with your purchase of a kit. We break the building of a Dinoot trailer into three sub-systems; the Frame, the Floor and the Tub Kit. Working from the ground up, we ll begin with Frames: On the light duty end of the spectrum are Harbor Freight style frame kits. We ve worked out all the details on adapting these frame kits for usage as a foundation under Dinoot tubs. Our guides are based on Harbor Freight s Haul-Master #94564 1720 lb. capacity super duty 4 x 8 frame kits. Modifications include trimming pieces, drilling new holes and a revised parts layout. These frames can also be upgraded for medium duty usage with heavy duty axles, smoother riding springs and reinforcements such as a 2 x2 tube backbone / tongue.

For the heavy duty end of the spectrum we recommend using a welded tubular frame. We offer welded frame kits with various options available. For customers, we have frame drawings with key information available for welding your own frame or having a local fabrication shop / buddy make you one. For the safety of everyone, only those with the appropriate level of welding experience should tackle building their own frame. The M-Series tubs are designed with the same floor footprint as a M416 trailer. With a few minor tweaks, an M416 frame can be used for an M-Series Dinoot project. A frame related consideration is axle / hub size. For off-pavement and tires over 31, I recommend using a 3.5K lb rated axle. For a few bucks more you get bigger bearings and a wider lug pattern selection. Frame main deck area sizes: (Note: HF frame kits need to be narrowed and shorten to work) Compact J-Series 44 wide x 48 long Extended J-Series 44 wide x 72 long M-Series 40.5 wide x 72 long

Once you have a solid frame foundation, it is time to discuss Floors: To keep the Dinoot a straightforward DIY project, we show you how to build a floor using standard 4 x8 plywood. With J-Series models, floors attach to the frame, then your tub attaches to the floor. The M-Series floor sits on top of the tub, the tub is sandwiched between the frame and floor. Floor materials are purchased locally. Floors can be clear sealed with exterior polyurethane or, for a more durable finish, sealed with a roll-on bed-liner like Durabak. Floors may also be made out of steel or aluminum.

Now you are ready for your Tub Kit: Both model tub kits ship flat packed as four individual panels; (1) front, (1) rear and (2) side panels. With J-Series tubs, (2) inner fenders are also included. On an M-Series tub, you have multiple external fender options to choose from. Both models can be built with solid panels on each end or with the optional rear tailgate panel which includes steel brackets to reinforce the opening area. Both models easily fit up to 33 tires. You can fit 35 tires with minor tweaks, bigger tires are possible, although like on your rig, modifications are necessary. As noted earlier; a detailed assembly guide is included with your tub kit. J-Series tubs have flanges on the panels which bolt together hiding the hardware on the inside. The tubs are designed to fit over your frame.

The side panels on the M-Series tubs fit over and are bolted to the end panel side flanges, leaving the bolt heads exposed on the outside. The tub sits on your frame, becoming sandwiched between the frame and floor. M-Series tubs have the same footprint as a military M416 trailer. With a few tweaks they can be dropped on a M416 frame. M-Series tubs use external fenders bolted to the side of the tub. They are available in different sizes and styles depending on the tires you plan to run. These are the standard Wide M416 Style fenders we make that most people run.

Both models can be built using a solid panel at the rear. Both models also have an optional tailgate opening rear panel designed to use a drop down style CJ-7 tailgate available. The tailgate version rear panel has steel reinforcements designed in where the hinges attach and to stiffen the opening. If a steel CJ-7 tailgate is installed, the standard internal flip latches are used to secure it. If one of our Smooth Fiberglass tailgates is intalled, external locking T-handle gets used. Both tailgate versions used standard CJ-7 tailgate hinges.

Once your Dinoot is built it is time for adding Accessories and Outfitting it. To see what we have available, visit the Build Components section on the website. On one end of the spectrum is building a basic gear hauler with a few tie-downs. On the other end of the spectrum is building a full tilt tent topped camper with water, propane, battery, solar and everything necessary for a few weeks in the back-country. The Tventuring.com forum which we sponsor is a great addition Dinoot information resource. It has a number customer Dinoot build threads, threads on ones I ve built and lots more. Get yours built and start enjoying some Trailer Supported Adventuring!