North Carolina Textile Industry



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North Carolina Textile Industry Stacey Frederick College of Textiles- North Carolina State University November 2006

My Background B.S. in Textile Management First year Ph.D student: Textile Technology Management Intern/Employee of NC Department of Commerce International Trade and Policy & Research State of the N.C. Textile Complex Research by North Carolina State University

Important Dates in US Textile History Conyclusion of the Uruguay Round with the 10 year phase out of the MFA CBI begins Beginning of NAFTA DR-CAFTA is passed 1973-Beginning of the MFAlasts until 1994 Stage One of the ATC- Agreement on Textiles & Clothing 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 Textile Negotiations Begin; textiles one of 14 groups negotiated Beginning of the Uruguay Round (Push by U.S. to include service sector and by developing countries to include agriculture) Stage Two of the ATC begins Beginning of Asian Currency Crisis (1997-2001) Stage Three of the ATC begnins China joins the WTO Stage Four-the final phase of the ATC and the end to quotas on textiles

State of the Textile Industry: Project Objectives 1) Market Analysis of North Carolina textile complex Searchable and sortable database by select variables 2) Analyze North Carolina textile companies using Clusters and Global Competitiveness Framework (fishbone diagram) 3) Determine needed assistance for companies 4) Identify future collaborative projects *** New way of thinking of textile complex in North Carolina present and future!!!! From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

Employment in NC Textile & Apparel Industry (1990-2005) 180,000 Fabric & Yarn Household Products Apparel 160,000 140,000 120,000 100,000 80,000 60,000 40,000 20,000 0 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Year N.C. Employment Security Commission

About the Textile Complex The textile complex includes traditional manufacturing of yarn, fabric, household products and apparel, but it ALSO includes Distribution, transportation, machinery, labeling/ticketing, research/testing services, and other auxiliary industries.

About the NC Textile Complex 1,500+ locations Over 130,000 employees Only 9% are public Total Sales are over $34 billion North Carolina is the largest Textile Manufacturing State 4th largest Apparel manufacturing State #1 State for Yarn Production #1 State for Nonwoven Roll Goods Production NC is home to 4 of the 5 largest home textile suppliers

Textile Locations by County 1-5 sites 6-29 sites 30+ sites From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

Breakdown of NC Locations 14% 13% 5% Fiber/Yarn Fabric Finishing 3% 9% 12% 13% 8% Apparel Hosiery End Processes Machinery Chemicals 11% 12% Miscellaneous Research/Service From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

North Carolina Textile Complex From N.C. Dept. of Commerce

Fabric Total: 167 (12% of total) Woven (52%), Knit (36%), and Nonwoven (12%) Fabric Employees: 19,512 (16.26% of total) Guilford Mills, Freudenberg, PGI, Glen Raven, ITG, Mastercraft (sample of companies) Sales: $4.4 billion Guilford, Mecklenburg, Gaston, Alamance, Stanly From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

NAICS: 115111 325221 325222 325211 324191 NAICS: 313111 313113 314991 314992 NAICS: 313210 313221 326150 313230 313241 313249 NAICS: 313112 313311 313312 313320 323113 323119 314999 325132 325199 325998 NAICS: 314110 314121 314129 314911 314912 337121 337122 337910 333411 339113 all 315

NAICS: 323121 322222 322214 322221 333292 333298 NAICS: 423220 423830 423930 423990 424310 424320 424330 424690 424990 NAICS: 813910 813940 5416113 541710

Global Value Chain http://www.soc.duke.edu/nc_globaleconomy /textiles/value.php

State of the Textile Industry: Project Objectives 1) Market Analysis of North Carolina textile complex Searchable and sortable database by select variables 2) Analyze North Carolina textile companies using Clusters and Global Competitiveness Framework (fishbone diagram) 3) Determine needed assistance for companies 4) Identify future collaborative projects *** New way of thinking of textile complex in North Carolina present and future!!!! From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

About the Database Prior to this research, there was no comprehensive, up to date, unrestricted database of all the textile complex companies in North Carolina. Existing databases are limited in scope, and are not comprehensive in nature.

Resources for the Database 1) 2006 NC Manufacturers Directory-Harris Info Source 2) Textile Organizations Listings: INDA, SEAMS, Hosiery Center, Military Business, NCRC, NCTO, North Carolina Textile Foundation 3) Business cards from previous interactions 4) Regional Partnerships 5) Hoovers Online 6) Reference USA 7) Company websites/internet sources 8) Chambers of Commerce 9) Personal phone calls

Database Structure Excel Database with 1,500+ textile related companies Database sortable by components General Information: contact, address, sales, year est., public/private Geographic Information: county, zip code, area code, city Supply Chain: raw materials, manufacturer, converter, wholesaler, retailer, sales office, distribution center, researcher/service provider End Use Industries: automotive, home furnishings, military/protection, medical, apparel, accessories Trade Show and Organization Membership Web Presence: website, e-commerce, online catalog, email

What are NAICS codes? North American Industry Classification System NAICS was developed jointly by the U.S., Canada, and Mexico in 2002 to provide new comparability in statistics about business activity across North America. Establishments that use the same or similar processes to produce goods or services are grouped together. It is a six-digit system that provides for comparability among the three countries at the five-digit level NAICS allows each country to recognize activities that are important in the respective countries, but may not be large enough or important enough to recognize in all three countries. The sixth digit is reserved for this purpose.

Broadwoven Fabric Mill: 313210 NAICS 2-digit: Sector 3-digit: Subsector 4-digit: Industry Group 5-digit: NAICS Industry 6-digit: National NAICS: 313210 31: Manufacturing 313: Textile Mills 3132: Fabric Mills 31321:Broadwoven Fabric Mills 313210: Broadwoven Fabric Mills

State of the Textile Industry: Project Objectives 1) Market Analysis of North Carolina textile complex Searchable and sortable database by select variables 2) Analyze North Carolina textile companies using Clusters and Global Competitiveness Framework (fishbone diagram) 3) Determine needed assistance for companies 4) Identify future collaborative projects *** New way of thinking of textile complex in North Carolina present and future!!!! From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

What are the textile industry clusters in North Carolina? TraditionalTextile & Apparel Manufacturing New/EmergingClusters Textile & Apparel Trade Textile & Apparel Distribution Textile & Apparel Creative Innovative Textile & Apparel Post-Assembly Customization Hypothesis: Competitive companies participate in several cluster activities From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

Traditional Manufacturing Cluster Triad Area Guilford, Forsyth, Alamance, Davidson, Randolph 328 (24%) 24,600+ employees $12 billion in sales Diversification: Yarn, hosiery, screen printing, fabric, finishing, cut/sew Glen Raven, Guilford, Unifi, Sara Lee, Gold Toe, VF Corp, Kayser Roth, ITG (sample of companies) From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

Product Type & Mix Research & Development Market Mix Global Business Perspective Multiple Products Niche Products Low Cost of Production R&D Dept. Design New Product Development Employee Education Multiple Markets Niche Markets Growing Markets Export Import International Trade Show International Locations Globally Competitive Textile Complex Companies Owns Equipment Efficiency New Equipment Public or Private Merchandising Versatility of Equipment Vertical Integration Website E-commerce Low Production Costs Free Cash Flow Little Debt Trade Shows Associations Branding Manufacturing Capability Technology Financial Marketing

VF Corporation VF Corporation Product Type & Mix Research & Development Market Mix Global Business Perspective Multiple Products Niche Products R&D Dept. Design New Product Development Multiple Markets Niche Markets Growing Markets Export Import International Trade Show International Locations Globally Competitive Textile Complex Companies Merchandising Trade Shows Website Public Associations Free Cash Flow Branding Technology Financial Marketing

State of the Textile Industry: Project Objectives 1) Market Analysis of North Carolina textile complex Searchable and sortable database by select variables 2) Analyze North Carolina textile companies using Clusters and Global Competitiveness Framework (fishbone diagram) 3) Determine needed assistance for companies 4) Identify future collaborative projects *** New way of thinking of textile complex in North Carolina present and future!!!! From NC Textile Complex Research, NCSU

Identify Ways to Help Companies Use fishbone to match companies with programs available throughout the Department of Commerce such as: International Trade Assistance Tax grants and incentives Training grants Or put companies in contact with other resources throughout North Carolina

Other Resources Trade Associations INDA, Cotton Inc, [TC]2, AATCC, Hosiery Association Training Centers and Education College of Textiles, ITT, Hosiery Technology Center, Gaston Technology Center Business Development SBTDC, Small Business Center, Joblink

Challenges in Today s Industry Global Perspective Firms are marketing their products in the most profitable places in the world and manufacturing in the most economical and efficient places in the world 44% do not report import and/or export activity Rapid Development of New Technology 34% of the companies do not have websites Less than 25% belong to trade organizations

Challenges Predominately negative publicity In the last two years there have been 144 new or expanded textile companies in North Carolina Lack of information on available resources and other existing members of the supply chain in North Carolina My work this summer and Phase II of project

Questions? The Only thing Constant is Change

References State of the Union of the Textile Industry in North Carolina Research by NC State University Dr. Nancy Cassill, Dr. Trevor Little, Dr. Blanton Godfrey, Stacey Frederick Research in Progress by Stacey Frederick