THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sicily Aeolian Islands p131 Western Sicily p84 p48 Tyrrhenian Coast p112 Central Sicily p216 Ionian Coast p158 Mediterranean Coast p233 & the Southeast p188 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Gregor Clark, Vesna Maric

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD DALLAS STRIBLEY/GETTY IMAGES ROBERTO SONCIN GEROMETTA/GETTY IMAGES Welcome to Sicily....... 4 Sicily Map.............. 6 Sicily s Top 14........... 8 Need to Know.......... 16 First Time Sicily........ 18 If You Like............. 20 Month by Month........ 23 Itineraries............. 25 Eat & Drink Like a Local............ 29 Outdoor Activities...... 35 Travel with Children..... 41 Regions at a Glance..... 44 PALERMO P51 RESERVA NATURALE DELLO ZINGARO P89 PALERMO.......... 48............... 51 Around........ 80 Mondello............... 80 Monreale............... 80 Solunto................. 81 Ustica.................. 82 WESTERN SICILY.... 84 Castellammare......... 88 Castellammare. del Golfo............... 88 Scopello................ 89 Around Scopello........ 89 San Vito Lo Capo......... 91 Trapani................ 92 Around Trapani......... 97 Erice.................... 97 Egadi Islands.......... 99 Favignana.............. 100 Levanzo................ 101 The Southwest........ 102 Saline di Trapani......... 102 Marsala................ 103 Mazara Del Vallo......... 106 Rocche di Cusa......... 108 Selinunte............... 108 TYRRHENIAN COAST............ 112 Cefalù................ 116 Around Cefalù......... 119 Termini Imerese......... 119 Caccamo............... 120 Himera................. 120 Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie.............. 121 Castelbuono............ 121 Petralia Soprana........ 123 Petralia Sottana......... 124 Piano Battaglia.......... 125 Collesano............... 125 Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi........... 126 San Marco. D Alunzio............... 126 Mistretta............... 127 Coastal Resort Villages.............. 127 Castel di Tusa........... 127 Sant Agata di. Militello................ 127 Capo d Orlando......... 128 Milazzo............... 128 AEOLIAN ISLANDS........... 131 Lipari................ 133 Vulcano.............. 142 Salina................ 145 Panarea.............. 148 Stromboli............ 150 Filicudi............... 156 Alicudi............... 157 IONIAN COAST..... 158 Messina.............. 162 Around Messina....... 165 Ganzirri................ 165 Savoca................. 165 Taormina............. 165 Around Taormina...... 170 Giardini-Naxos.......... 170 Catania.............. 171 Riviera dei Ciclopi............... 181 Acireale................ 181 Aci Trezza.............. 182 Aci Castello............. 183 Mount Etna........... 183

72 1. Tempio della Concordia (p235) 2. Teatro Greco (p193) 3. Segesta (p88) 4. Solunto (p81) Sicily is renowned for its classical masterpieces, the best of which is to be found in Agrigento. Ancient-history lovers can choose from wonderfully preserved Greek amphitheatres and temples, and rich Roman ruins. Valley of the Temples The model for Unesco s logo and one of the world s best-preserved Greek temples, the Tempio della Concordia is the star turn of stunning Agrigento. The ruins (p 235 ) are what s left of Akragas, once the fourth-largest city in the ancient world. Parco Archeologico della Neapolis A major power in ancient times, boasts one of Sicily s great classical monuments the Teatro Greco (p 193 ), a supremely well-preserved Greek amphitheatre. In the theatre s shadow, you can explore caves where slaves once laboured. Selinunte You don t have to be an archaeologist to be bowled over by the Greek temples at Selinunte (p256). They are beautifully set against a sunny seaside backdrop that looks particularly fabulous in spring, when wildflowers set the scene ablaze with colour. Segesta Standing in proud isolation amid rugged, green hills, the ruins of ancient Segesta (p 88 ) are an unforgettable sight. Pride of place goes to the stately 5th-century-BC temple but don t miss the amphitheatre, dramatically gouged out of the hillside. Solunto Originally founded by Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, ancient Solunto underwent several incarnations, including a period as the Roman city of Soluntum. Its remaining ruins (p 81 ), sprawled attractively over a steep seafront hillside, mostly date to the Roman era. 73 Contents UNDERSTAND SYRACUSE & THE SOUTHEAST... 188 & Around............... 192............... 192 Around....... 202 The Southeast....... 203 Valle Dell Anapo. & Around.............. 203 Palazzolo Acreide....... 203 Noto.................. 205 The Noto Coast........ 208 Modica................ 209 South of Modica......... 211 Ragusa................. 212 CENTRAL SICILY.... 216 Enna................ 220 North of Enna......... 223 Calascibetta........... 223 Nicosia................ 223 South of Enna......... 223 Piazza Armerina........ 223 Villa Romana del. Casale.................226 Aidone................ 227 Morgantina............ 229 Caltagirone............ 229 The Western Interior............... 231 Caltanissetta........... 231 East of Agrigento..... 246 Licata................. 248 Falconara.............. 248 Gela...................248 Hilltop Towns.......... 250 ACCOMMODATION. 251.............. 252 Western Sicily........ 254 Tyrrhenian Coast...... 256 Aeolian Islands........ 258 Ionian Coast.......... 261 & the Southeast........ 264 Central Sicily........ 266 Mediterranean Coast................ 267 Sicily Today........... 270 History............... 272 The Sicilian Table...... 280 The Sicilian Way of Life........... 288 Sicily on Page & Screen............. 292 The Mafia............ 296 Art & Architecture..... 300 SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A Z......... 304 Transport............ 311 Language............. 316 Index................ 324 Map Legend.......... 335 MEDITERRANEAN COAST............ 233 Agrigento............ 235 West of Agrigento..... 242 Casa Natale di. Pirandello............. 242 Eraclea Minoa.......... 243 Sciacca............... 243 Caltabellotta........... 246 SPECIAL FEATURES Eat & Drink Like a Local........... 29 Outdoor Activities...... 35 Sicilian Architecture........... 69 Accommodation...... 251 JOHN HESELTINE/GETTY IMAGES ANDREW GUNNERS/GETTY IMAGES DEA PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES DESIGN PICS/PATRICK SWAN/GETTY IMAGES Classical Masterpieces

On the Road Aeolian Islands p131 Western Sicily p84 p48 Tyrrhenian Coast p112 Central Sicily p216 Ionian Coast p158 Mediterranean Coast p233 & the Southeast p188

Sicily 12 E 13 E Ustica Ustica Tyrrhenian Sea Architectural masterpieces and amazing food (p51) Caccamo A picturesquely perched Norman castle (p120) 38 N Falcone- Capo San Vito Borsellino Gallo lo Capo Airport Carini Mondello # Castellammare Capo Zafferano Riserva Naturale ^# # Egadi dello Zingaro Solunto Islands Levanzo Erice Scopello Termini Trapani Imerese Castellammare Partinico Bagheria Termini Favignana Marettimo del Golfo Alcamo Imerese Favignana # Segesta Vincenzo Florio Caccamo Collesano Riserva Naturale # (Birgi) Airport di Stagnone Parco Naturale Mozia Regionale Corleone Capo Boeo Marsala delle Madonie Erice Western Sicily's prettiest hilltop village (p97) Saline di Trapani Salt ponds and Phoenician ruins (p102) Castelvetrano Mazara del Vallo Rocche di Cusa # æ Menfi Selinunte Partanna Sciacca Caltabellotta Ribera Himera 3 3 Agrigento Sicily's finest collection of temples (p235) Eraclea Minoa Agrigento Scala dei Turchi # æ ] Favara # æ Porto Valley of Empedocle the Temples Palma di Montechiaro 37 N Pantelleria R Pantelleria Mt Grande (836m) ROAD DISTANCES (km) Catania Enna Milazzo Trapani 165 90 270 130 215 175 Note: Distances are approximate 85 130 210 65 315 215 140 135 245 200 190 300 260 105 365 MEDITERRANEAN SEA Pelagic Islands Same Scale as Main Map 36 N MEDITERRANEAN SEA DPelagic Islands (see Inset; 150km) Porto Empedocle (200km) D Linosa Linosa Agrigento Catania Enna Milazzo 13 E Lampione Lampedusa Lampedusa 13 E

0 50 km #e 0 25 miles 14 E 15 E Stromboli Stromboli Town 16 E # d'orlando Patti Sant'Agata San Marco Tyndaris Castel di Militello Cefalù d'alunzio 3333 di Tusa Castelbuono Mistretta Parco Regionale R # dei Nebrodi R Pizzo Carbonara (1979m) Mt Soro (1847m) 33333 Parco # Petralia Bronte dell'etna Soprana R 3 3333 Lago di Mt Etna Pozzillo Adrano (3329m) Enna Paternò V# Castello di Lombardia Misterbianco Caltanissetta 33 Morgantina # Gela Gela Alicudi Monti Madonie Filicudi Cefalù Medieval mosaics and gorgeous beaches (p116) Aeolian Islands Panarea San Pietro Mt Fossa Salina delle Felci R# \ Santa Marina Salina (962m) Lipari Lipari Town Capo Monti Nebrodi Monti Iblei Porto di Levante Capo Calavà Vulcano Capo Milazzo Gioia Milazzo Mortelle Punta del Faro (Capo Peloro) Milazzo Ganzirri Villa San Messina Giovanni Barcellona Monti Peloritani Savoca Straits of Messina Gola dell'alcantara # Taormina Petralia Giardini- Sottana Naxos Giarre Riviera dei Ciclopi Acireale Aci Trezza Aci Castello Catania Fontanarossa Villa Romana Aidone del Casale Piazza Armerina Palagonia Catania Mazzarino Lentini Ravanusa Caltagirone Megara Augusta Butera Hyblaea Necropoli di Falconara Niscemi Augusta Pantalica Floridia V# Castello Eurialo Licata Palazzolo Akrai Acreide Vittòria Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie Splendid walks (p121) Cómiso Ragusa Avola Noto Noto Modica Eloro Scicli # Ìspica Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari Pozzallo Cava Pachino d'ispica Capo Passero Capo delle Correnti Noto Graceful hill town of baroque domes (p205) Aeolian Islands Dazzling seas and honey-sweet wine (p131) Reggio di Calabria CALABRIA Taormina Summer festivals in an ancient theatre (p165) Mt Etna Climb Europe's largest active volcano (p183) Ionian Sea Greatest city of Magna Graecia (p192) ELEVATION 2500m 2000m 1500m 1000m 500m 200m 100m 0 38 N 37 N 14 E 15 E 16 E

25 Itineraries T Y R R H E N I A N Aeolian Islands #f Segesta Selinunte Mt Etna R Taormina Catania I O N I A N Agrigento MEDITERRANEA N Ragusa Noto Modica 2 WEEKS Only the Best Fly into, Trapani or Catania and pick up a hire car to begin your circumnavigation of the island. Your destinations should be the same regardless of where you start: Agrigento, Selinunte, Segesta, the Val di Noto,, Catania, Mt Etna, Taormina, the Aeolian Islands and. From, for instance, after exploring the capital s magnificent architectural monuments, you could head southwest to the temples at Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigento, then cut east across the island to the Unesco-listed Val di Noto, where the baroque beauties of Ragusa, Modica and Noto are all obligatory stops. Next it s on to, a highlight of any trip to Sicily: split your time here between the pedestrian-friendly ancient island city of Ortygia and the vast classical ruins of the Parco Archeologico. Continue up the coast to bustling Catania and circle Mt Etna to reach Taormina, a town whose abundant attractions include its ancient Greek theatre and the gorgeous beaches just below. Finally, hop a ferry to the Aeolian Islands for some sun, swimming and beautiful coastal scenery.

26 T Y R R H E N I A N CALABRIA Golfo CALABRIA di Gioia Parco Nazionale dell'aspromonte T Y R R H E N I A N PLAN YOUR TRIP Itiner aries Villa Erice Trapani Romana del Petralia Casale Sottana # I O N I A N R Mt Etna Necropoli di Marsala Regaleali Nicosia Agrigento Caltagirone Pantalica Ionian Estate Catania # Sea Palazzolo Acreide # Ragusa # Noto Modica # # Scicli M E D I T E R R A N E A N M E D I T E R R A N E A N 7 World Heritage Sites 7 Wining & Dining from West to East Begin your tour of Unesco World Heritage Sites in, one of the ancient world s great cities, where traces of Magna Graecia are omnipresent from papyrus-fringed Fontana Aretusa to the amphitheatres, altars and caves of the Parco Archeologico. Next head west to the Necropoli di Pantalica an eerie array of several thousand Bronze Age tombs built into limestone cliffs before continuing to the captivating Val di Noto. The devastating earthquake of 1693 may have wrought havoc on this corner of the island, but it also led to the creation of some of Sicily s greatest treasures. The late-baroque towns of Noto, Modica and Ragusa are the stars, but it s also worth seeking out the small villages of Scicli and Palazzolo Acreide and the famed ceramics centre of Caltagirone, with its grand staircase of 142 distinctively tiled steps. Continue west to dazzling Villa Romana del Casale, whose newly restored Roman mosaic floors depict bikini-clad gymnasts and African beasts prancing side by side. The trail ends at the most magnificent archaeological site in Sicily: Agrigento s Valley of the Temples, with its five Doric structures perched on a ridge near the coast. Start off in elegant Marsala, taste-testing the town s famous sweet wine on a cellar tour at Cantine Florio, then lingering late into the night at the many enoteche and restaurants in the pedestrian-friendly centre. Then follow the Strada del Vino Erice DOC wine route towards Trapani, where you can lunch on fabulous fish couscous, followed by dessert with a breathtaking view in Erice, renowned for its marzipan fruit, nougat and other nut-based sweets. Next, park your car for a day or two in, whose supremely colourful markets, delicious street food, irresistible bakeries and countless fine eateries are highlights of any Sicilian food trip. Take a cooking course, either at s Butera 28 or down the road at the 400-hectare Regaleali estate near Vallelunga, one of Sicily s leading wine producers. Meander east along the southern edge of the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains, refuelling frequently with local black pork, ricotta, pecorino, mushrooms and hazelnuts in pretty hill towns like Petralia Sottana and Nicosia. Last, circumnavigate spectacular Mt Etna, stopping for tastings of local honey, pistachios and Etna DOC wine before enjoying a final evening in cosmopolitan Catania.

27 G O L F O Stromboli D I PA T T I Patti Cefalù Collesano # Castelbuono Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie Petralia Petralia Sottana Soprana T Y R R H E N I A N Castel di Tusa Nicosia Enna Mistretta #f Salina Lipari Aeolian Islands Fossa di VulcanoR SICILY Vulcano #f T Y R R H E N I A N Milazzo Parco Naturale dell'etna Randazzo SICILY I O N I A N Bronte R Mt Etna Biancavilla Riviera G O L F O D I Paternò dei Ciclopi C ATA N I A Catania Ionian Sea PLAN YOUR TRIP Itiner aries 4 Mountain Retreats 7 Smoke & Fire: Volcanic Sicily Relax into your journey in postcard-perfect Cefalù, where you can lounge on the beach, visit the splendid medieval cathedral and enjoy panoramic coastal views from the ruins of the hilltop Norman citadel. Follow the coast to Castel di Tusa, breaking for lunch on the waterfront before exploring the town s unique open-air sculpture garden. Next climb through the lost-in-time mountain town of Mistretta into the Nebrodi mountains, where grand views of Mt Etna begin to unfold. After brief detours to explore the medieval village of Nicosia, continue south to Enna, a handsome hill town that marks the geographic centre of Sicily a fact best appreciated from atop the heavily fortified walls of the Castello di Lombardia. Snake back north through Gangi into the heart of the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie, a magnificent natural landscape dotted with hazelnut orchards, ash forests and photogenic hilltop towns. Linger a couple of days along the mountains western edge in beautiful Petralia Soprana, Petralia Sottana, Collesano and Castelbuono, each of which boasts fine regional restaurants and makes a good base for hikes into the mountains. From Castelbuono an easy downhill jaunt takes you back to Cefalù. Start in Catania, a city built of lava from the devastating volcanic eruption of 1669. Your first logical step is to climb the volcano that did all the damage, Mt Etna, nowadays one of Sicily s leading tourist attractions. As legend would have it, it was from Etna s lofty heights that the Cyclops hurled his stones at the fleeing Odysseus you can still see their jagged forms along the dramatic Riviera dei Ciclopi coastline, where traditional fishing villages have been reinvented as summer resorts. Next follow our driving tour of Etna s western flank and continue north to Milazzo, where you can catch a ferry to Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands. Read up on the archipelago s fiery past at Lipari s Museo Archeologico, then go tour a few volcanoes for yourself. Nature lovers can explore the verdant island of Salina, whose twin extinct cones are one of Sicily s most harmonious sights. Those looking for something a little more active can climb smoking Fossa di Vulcano, with its sulphur-belching crater and gloopy mudbaths, or scale the lighthouse of the Mediterranean, Stromboli, an eternal lava-lamp whose eruptions continually light up the night sky.

28 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itiner aries T Y R R H E N I A N Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro Piscina di San Vito Mondello Venere lo Capo Cefalù # Lido Castellammare del Golfo Mazzarò Aci Eraclea Scala dei Castello Minoa # Turchi Riserva Naturale di Torre Salsa # Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari MEDITERRANEA N G O L F O D I TAR ANTO CALABRIA T Y R R H E N I A N CALABRIA Crati Sila Greca Sila Grande La Sila Sila Piccola Neto Aeolian I O N I A N Islands Stromboli Squillace CALABRIA Ustica Filicudi Panarea CALABRIA G O L F O D I S QAlicudi U I L L A C E Lipari #f Salina Vulcano Levanzo Trapani Milazzo # Favignana # I OMarsala N I A N Marettimo Ionian Sea M E D I T E R R A N E A N 7 Beach Hopping 10 Offshore Islands Unpack your beach towel for the first time at Mondello, s summer playground. Then head west to the stunning Castellammare, where the popular beaches of Castellammare del Golfo and San Vito lo Capo offer an urban counterpoint to the pristine Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro, home to a series of sparkling coves spread out along a 7km walking trail. Next stop is Sicily s west coast. Beach aficionados will love the untrammelled Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa, the town of Eraclea Minoa, whose fabulous beach is complemented by an archaeological site, and the blindingly chalk-white Scala dei Turchi. Continue your beach-hop along Sicily s Ionian Coast, with visits to the isolated shores of the Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari and the blue waters at Aci Castello, where a Norman castle broods over the beach scene. Wrap it all up with stops at bustling Lido Mazzarò just below Taormina, Piscina di Venere at the tip of Capo Milazzo, and the long sandy beach in Cefalù. From here it s a quick trip back to. Your island-hopping adventure begins with a half-hour hydrofoil trip from Marsala or Trapani to Favignana, gateway to the Egadi Islands. Tour the old Florio tuna factory and cycle through Favignana s landscape of abandoned tufa quarries and beaches, then ferry across to see prehistoric cave art at Levanzo and hike the trails of Marettimo. Next stop is the offshore diving paradise of Ustica, whose pristine waters and easygoing pace will make you forget you re only 90 minutes from downtown. When you re ready for a culture shock, boomerang back to the Sicilian mainland for the train from to Milazzo, then hydrofoil out to the Aeolian Islands, seven volcanic beauties with seven personalities. Start on the biggest, Lipari, where you can tour the superb archaeological museum, linger over drinks in the pleasant town centre or explore the island s outlying beaches and walking trails. From Lipari, frequent hydrofoils allow easy day trips to all the remaining islands: smoky Vulcano, chic Panarea, lush green Salina, remote Alicudi, off-the-beaten-track Filicudi and the most spectacular of all, actively erupting Stromboli.

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Gregor Clark Coordinating Author,, Western Sicily, Tyrrhenian Coast, Aeolian Islands Gregor caught the Italy bug at age 14 during a year in Florence, in which his professor dad trundled the family off to see every fresco, mosaic and museum within a 1000km radius. He s lived in Venice and Le Marche, led Italian bike tours, and huffed and puffed across the Dolomites while researching Lonely Planet s Cycling Italy, but his abiding passion is for Sicily, an island he s explored extensively in multiple research trips over the past several years. Highlights of his latest visit include celebrating his birthday atop an erupting Stromboli. A lifelong polyglot with a degree in Romance languages, Gregor writes frequently about Europe and South America for Lonely Planet. He lives with his wife and two daughters in Vermont, USA. Gregor also wrote the Plan Your Trip section (except for Outdoor Activities and Travel with Children), the Sicily Today, History, The Sicilian Table and The Sicilian Way of Life Understand features and the Survival Guide. Read more about Gregor at: lonelyplanet.com/members/gregorclark Vesna Maric Ionian Coast, & the Southeast, Central Sicily, Mediterranean Coast Vesna has been working for Lonely Planet for nearly a decade and loves writing about the Mediterranean islands. She cherished working on the Sicily guidebook for the second time, and loved revisiting old favourites such as Catania s fish market and the Piazza Duomo at. She returned with her three-year-old daughter this time. Vesna also wrote the Outdoor Activities, Travel with Children, Sicily on Page & Screen, The Mafia, and Art & Architecture chapters. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 6th edition January 2014 ISBN 978 1 74220 048 4 Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs as indicated 2014 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.