TRAVEL INSPIRATION CULTURE 3 Days In Barcelona Written by Sara McCarty, Context Travel December 18, 2014 Photo courtesy Fundació Joan Miró The bright, colorful work of Barcelona artist Joan Miró is on view at Fundació Joan Miró. It s easy to get carried away by the city s storied Art Nouveau architecture, medieval alleyways and Mediterranean food, but to get a taste of everything, focus on three historic neighborhoods Ciutat Vella, the Eixample, and Montjuïc to experience the unique culture of Catalonia. 1
Photo by Sara McCarty Take a stroll through Barcoloneta, a waterfront area originally constructed in the 18th century. DAY 1: CIUTAT VELLA Barcelona s old city is made up mainly of the El Gotíc and El Raval neighborhoods. It s worth spending a day wandering its narrow medieval streets. EAT After a day of walking Barcelona s medieval quarter, stop into heavenly Caelum for some tea and pastries (grapefruit cakes and apple dumplings) made by local nuns. For an extra special treat, head to the basement to see the archaeological remains of the women s baths of Barcelona. PLAY Barcelona s contemporary art museum, Museu d'art Contemporani de Barcelona (known as MACBA), focuses on mid-century abstraction and European Pop. Richard Meier designed the building its glass exterior stands 2
out against the mostly Gothic-style buildings in the area in the Raval neighborhood, the city s former red-light district, which has seen major revitalization since the early 90s. There s no permanent collection, so even if you ve been, it s always worth another visit. Most modernista architecture can be found in the city s Eixample district, but Gaudí s Palau Güell, built for industrial tycoon Eusebi Güell (Gaudí s friend and patron), is located in the Raval, just next to Las Ramblas. One of Gaudí s early works, the Palau Güell is mixture of medieval and modern influences and is an ideal point from which to begin an exploration of Catalan modernism and the world of Gaudí. Barceloneta, a neighborhood by the Barcelona port, was developed in the 18th century for city residents displaced by the construction of the nearby Ciudadela fortress. Wander its grid-like byways, keeping an eye out for the remaining twostory houses that originally lined its streets; or walk along the seaside promenade to admire the sculptures scattered along the beach. STAY Hotel Neri, a charming 4-star boutique hotel, is located just off the quiet Plaça Sant Felip Neri in the heart of the city s former Jewish quarter, an easy walk from the sites of the ciutat vella. The hotel is housed in two former aristocratic palaces, one dating back to the 12th century. Its elegant, modern décor is a cool contrast to the property s medieval stone walls (which are actually carved out of quartzite). 3
Photo by Olga Planas The restaurant at Hotel Omm serves traditional Catalan dishes with a twist DAY 2: THE EIXAMPLE Developed in the late 19th century as an alternative to the claustrophobic old city, this area (whose name is Catalan for extension ) quickly became popular among the wealthy. Now its wide boulevards are home to luxury stores, trendy restaurants, and fantastical modernistabuildings by Antoni Gaudí. EAT Patrons at Cerveceria Catalana usually spill out onto the wide Eixample street it faces. Locals love this place for its lively ambiance and creative food (we love the montaditos Solomillo,or open faced sandwich with beef). But it s walk-ins only, so be prepared to join the queue snaking out front. PLAY Designed in the early 20th century by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner (a contemporary of Gaudí),Hospital de Sant Pau, together with Montaner s Palau de la Música, is a UNESCO world heritage site and the world s largest art nouveau site. Best of all, even though it s just a few blocks away from the Sagrada Familia, it never seems to be overrun by tourists. 4
STAY Situated at the top of the Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona s grand boulevard of modernistaarchitecture, the stunning Hotel Casa Fuster is located in a 1908 building designed by renowned Catalan modernista architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner (he s also behind the Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau). Don t miss the hotel s stylish rooftop bar and pool if you re there in the summer. One of the first contemporary design hotels in Barcelona, Hotel Omm opened in 2003 and is located in the city s Eixample district among the fanciful turn of the century Modernista buildings. The simple rooms efficiently marry form with function, but it s the facade, designed by architect Juli Capella, that s most attention-grabbing, as its exterior seems to flap in the wind. Don t skip the hotel s gastronomic restaurant, Moo, which has a Michelin star and prepares Catalan food with a twist. Photo courtesy Bodega 1900 Sample old-school dishes at Bodega 1900, which specializes in recipes from a century ago. 5
DAY 3: MONTJUÏC HILL This area offers a diverse history, stunning views of the Barcelona harbor, and plentiful cultural sites and museums, including an Olympic stadium. EAT Run by the Quim family since 1914 its charming décor seemingly hasn t changed much since the popular Quimet y Quimet is known for serving tapas made with conserves,or high-quality canned ingredients, like salmon montaditosor canned sea urchin. Located in the up-and-coming Poble- Sec neighborhood, the tiny bodega is usually packed for the few hours it s open, so be sure to arrive early if you want a space at one of its standing-only tables. If you can t get a table at Tickets, the famed Adrià brothers newest gastronomic endeavor, try Bodega 1900, Albert Adrià s traditional vermutería. The restaurant serves dishes that were popular around 100 years ago, as well as a great selection of vermut. And although the focus isn t on molecular gastronomy, you may find yourself face to face with Adrià s famous liquid olives anyway. PLAY Housed in the spectacular Palau Nacional of Montjuïc, which was built for the International Exposition of 1929, Museu Nacional d Art de Catalunya presents an extensive collection of Catalan art, from Modernista sculptures to paintings by Casagemas, Fortuny, and Dalí. For those interested in exploring other genres of art, the museum also has large holdings of European Renaissance paintings and one of the best collections of Romanesque mural painting in the world. Fundació Joan Miró pays homage to one of Catalonia s best known artists, surrealist painter, sculptor, and ceramicist Joan Miró. The foundation was conceived by Miró himself to encourage other young contemporary artists, and now houses an extensive collection of the early- to mid- 20th century work of other famous artists (Calder, Rothko) in addition to that of its namesake. 6