SPRITE and BIGFOOT DESKTOP CNC MACHINE KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

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1 SPRITE and BIGFOOT DESKTOP CNC MACHINE KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS README FIRST: Thank you for purchasing your MyDIYCNC Desktop CNC Machine Kit. We hope this versatile and innovative machine brings you many hours of productive work and enjoyment. Login to your MyDIYCNC account on our website and from the Support > Downloads and the Support > Resources areas download the Comprehensive Plans & Manual (CP&M) ebook, the Anti-backlash & Motor Couplings Assembly instructions and the Electronics & Wiring Instructions. If you purchased the optional limit switches kit, you will also need to download the Limit Switch Assembly Instructions. While these instructions apply to both our Sprite and BigFoot models, the instructions depict a Sprite build. Assembly of a BigFoot Desktop CNC Machine Kit will be identical. Your unpacked kit should look like this: PLEASE NOTE: Do not remove the tape on the underside edges of the table. This is a special wear-resistant, ultra-slip Teflon tape and is necessary for the your CNC to perform properly. CAUTION: Using manual and power tools is usually a safe endeavor, as long as the user is attentive and cautious. Your CNC machine is a sophisticated and versatile power tool that can bring you many hours of creative and rewarding use. Please use it with the same caution and respect you would give any power tool with a sharp cutting bit. Always Safery First. Page 1 of 33

2 BEFORE YOU BEGIN: For this project you will need the following tools: Two 7/16 (metric 11) wrenches or one 7/16 wrench and a pair of pliers A #1 and a #2 Phillips screwdriver Some dishsoap and water Light machine oil, such as 3 in 1 oil, sewing machine oil, or airtool oil. Two Hex wrenches (Allen keys), 7/64 and 1/16 The 7/64 will attach carriage parts. The 1/16 hex is for the set screw in the spindle mounts. Your set screw is already installed inside of the upper and lower spindle mounts for you, however you will need to tighten them. A sharp utility knife (AKA box cutter or Stanley knife ) Power drill or screwdriver with #2 Phillips bit (optional) Page 2 of 33

3 PREPARATION: You should assemble the Anti-backlash wing nuts and springs onto the threaded rods before starting assembly of the machine. Please refer to the Anti-backlash & Motor Couplings Instructions document. Doing this in advance will make your build easier. You can find additional instructions for this step in the CP&M ebook. Make sure that the wingnut with holes in it is the one nearest the motor coupling. Once assembled they will look like those shown in the picture below. Put them to one side until step 3.2 below. So, let's begin... STEP 1: Assembling the Frame 1.1: Locate the front and rear frame members, as shown. The rear frame member has the set of three holes in a row (top bar in picture), while the front frame member has a row of five holes and a recess for the motor (bottom bar in picture). Page 3 of 33

4 Insert the grommets into the front and rear frame members in the outside holes of the group, making sure that they are inserted completely, as shown in the picture. Take care not to tear the grommets, and make sure they are seated uniformly in their hole. The hole through the center of the grommet will look nice and round if seated correctly. Your front and rear frame members should now look like this. 1.2: Building the rest of the chassis assembly upside down is the easiest way to complete the frame. You will have 4 long rail tubes: 2 will have a row of 6 holes and a single hole in each end (rail A); 2 will have a row of four holes with a large hole through each end (rail B), as shown in the picture. Page 4 of 33

5 First, lay out both of rail A so that the end holes face upwards. Place the rear frame member across the rail A's frame members on the end where the row of 6 holes are closer together, aligning the end holes on each piece. Please refer to the picture for correct orientation. The rear frame member's holes face inwards as show. Place the front frame member across the other end of rail A's making sure that the recess of the center hole faces outwards, the grommets are on the inside of the frame and that the end holes align, as shown in the picture. Now place the remaining two side members on top of the frame so that they are directly above bottom side frame members and that as shown. Page 5 of 33

6 1.3: Align the holes holes and place diagonal brace from one corner to the opposite end corner as shown (doesn't matter which opposing corners you choose). Insert 1/4-20 X 2 1/2 Hex cap bolt into the 4 end holes as shown. Hold the locknut in place with a finger while you start the thread. Page 6 of 33

7 Use two 7/16 (metric 11) wrenches, or a wrench and pliars, to tighten until snug. Do not over tighten as the frame members could bend under too much torque. Attach the 4 black bumpers (feet) provided in your hardware kit. Page 7 of 33

8 Now turn over your assembled frame. It should now look like the one shown in the picture. STEP 2: Assemble Table NOTE: As already mentioned, do not remove the tape from the table. 2.1: Locate the 12 Igus bearings in your kit. Insert 4 bearings into their holes in the X Carriage Block. They should snap in easily and fit snugly in their hole. Repeat the process for the remaining 8 bearings in the Y and Z carriages. Your set of 3 carriages will look like those shown in the picture below. Page 8 of 33

9 2.2: Locate the table, 4 table spacers and x 1 ¼ flathead machine screws as shown. Place spacers on top of X Carriage Block, aligning them with corresponding holes on the flat face of the X Carriage Block. Page 9 of 33

10 Place the table on top of the spacers with the holes counter-sink side facing upward. Insert the (4) 6-32 X 1 ¼ flathead screws through holes. Finger-start the screw into the assembly, taking care not to cross-thread the screws. Once started they should screw in easily. Snug them down with your screwdriver. Your table is now assembled and should look like the one in the picture below. Page 10 of 33

11 2.3: Make a small solution of water with a little dish soap. Taking the two longest guide rods, lubricate them with the soapy water so that you can easily slide them through the rubber grommets. With a rotating motion push the rods through the front grommets so that they protrude inside the chassis frame. If the grommets become difficult to thread through or if they start to curl out of their holes, add some more soapy solution to lubricate them. Now pass the rods through the X Carriage bearings and into the rear frame member grommets. Make sure that the closer two holes on the anti-backlash mounting block are nearest the front of the chassis, as shown in this picture. Page 11 of 33

12 The rods should pass easily through the bearings. If you encounter resistance, do not force the rod through. Retract the rod, apply a small drop of lubricating oil on the rod and try again. Pass each rod through the bearings and into the rear grommets so that you feel them touch the back of the frame member. Page 12 of 33

13 Your completed chassis base should look like this. Page 13 of 33

14 STEP 3: Drivetrain Assembly 3.1: Insert the 1 piece of white tubing into the center hole on the inside of the rear frame member, as shown in the picture. This tubing prevents the threaded rod from rubbing against the frame member. Push it in until it touches the back of the frame member. When inserted it should look like the picture below. Page 14 of 33

15 3.2: Insert the longest threaded rod with your anti-backlash assembly on it through the frame so that the end with the coupling on it passes through the front frame member, as shown in this picture. Slide the table all the way forward as shown. Align the holes in the wingnut with the corresponding holes in the X Carriage Block as shown. Please be sure to read the separate Anti-backlash & Coupling Assembly Instructions for details on adjusting the mechanism to eliminate backlash from your drivetrain. Once adjusted, attach the anti-backlash wingnut to the X Carriage Block using the 6-32 x 3/8 machine screws provided in the anti-backlash kit. Page 15 of 33

16 STEP 4: Attaching the Y Axis to the Chassis 4.1: Locate the two Gantry Support Uprights (GSU) as shown in the picture. Note that they are different. The right-hand GSU (when looking from the front of the machine) has additional holes to mount the Y axis motor and the guide rod holes are all the way through the piece. On the Left-hand GSU they are pockets, as opposed to holes. The picture below shows the difference in the two GSU's. The outside face of each GSU is facing up in this picture. Locate the set of 8 #8 x 3/4 screws and screw them into the outside face of each GSU through the four GSU mounting holes at the bottom of each piece as shown. Page 16 of 33

17 Screw them in far enough that the tip of the screw is just starting to protrude from the material, as shown in in the next picture. You will use this protruding tip to locate the GSY in the frame. When orienting the GSU's on the frame, please note that the longest flat edge of the GSU faces rearward. The GSU with the motor mounting holes is attached to the right[hand side of the chassis frame while the GSU with the guide rod pockets attached to the left-hand side. The GSU will mount to the corresponding set of four holes in the frame, two in each side rail, as shown in the picture below. Page 17 of 33

18 Starting with the left-hand GSU, use the protruding screw tips to locate the GSU in it's mounting holes. It will be easier if you put the chassis frame on it's side as shown. Screw the GSU to the frame as indicated in the following picture. Make sure that the screws are firm, but do not over-tighten as that will distort the GUS material. There should be no gap between the side rails and the GSU's. If you have any gaps, back out the screw(s) nearest the gap until the GSU lays flat against the rail. Hold the GSU against the rail and tighten the screws again to eliminate the gap. Page 18 of 33

19 Once attached the chassis with GSU should look like this. 4.2: Flip the assembly over onto its other side. Press the Y axis guide rods (the secondlongest pair) into the pockets in the left-hand GSU as shown below. They should fit snugly. Slide the Y Carriage Block over the rods, making sure that the pair of anti-backlash holes are on the motor side of the carriage, as you did with the X axis. The larger part of the Y Carriage is above the Y axis rails, and the flat face of the carriage is facing the rear of the frame. See the pictures for reference. Page 19 of 33

20 Place the right-hand GSU over the rods so that they fit into the two guide rail holes. You may need to tap down the GSU to fit it evenly over the rods. You can use the Gantry Back Brace to place over the GSU and tap it to distribute the force of your hammer and even the pressure of the GSU going over the rods. CAUTION: DO NOT tap or hit the rods directly with your hammer as this may distort them and may damage the pockets on the other end. Always use a board to dissipate the force. When the rods are firmly in the holes, using the remaining 4 #8 x 3/4 screws and attach the right-hand GSU in the same manner as you did the left-hand GSU. As you did for the other side, be sure that there are no gaps between the GSU and the frame. Page 20 of 33

21 Finally, insert the 3/8 white tube into the left-hand GSU as shown. STEP 5: Build the Y and Z Carriages 5.1: Locate one of your stepper motors, the Z Axis Upper Cap Plate and the 4 14mm M3 machine screws provided, as shown in the picture. Place the motor on the side of the Upper Cap Plate without guide rod pockets. Rotate the motor so that the wires come out of the motor on the same side as the edge that has two Page 21 of 33

22 threaded holes. This is the rear of the plate and your motor wires will face backwards when installed. Insert the M3 machine screws through the four motor mounting holes and tighten them down to secure the motor firmly to the plate. Your Upper Cap Plate will look like the following picture. Put this assembly aside and locate the Lower Cap Plate. As with the Upper Cap Plate, the Lower Cap Plate has two threaded holes in the rear edge that match the two holes at the bottom of the Y Carriage Block, as seen in the picture. Page 22 of 33

23 With the guide rail pockets facing upwards, attach the Lower Cap Plate to the Y Carriage Block with 2 of the hex socket head 6-32 x 3/4 screws using your 7/16 hex wrench as shown. Finger-start them so as to not cross-thread the screws, and tighten down firmly with the hex wrench. 5.2: Place the Y axis threaded rod assembly between the Y axis guide rods so that the wingnut holes align with their mounting holes, as shown in the picture. The coupling end of the rod should pass through the motor mounting hole in the right-hand GSU. Page 23 of 33

24 Attach the anti-backlash wingnut to the Y Carriage Block with the x 3/8 machine screws provided. Please follow the instructions in the separate Anti-backlash & Motor Coupling Instructions document for dialing out backlash in your Y axis. 5.3: Take the Z motor assembly you built in step 5.1 above and firmly press the motor coupling onto the motor driveshaft as shown in the next picture. It is a tight fit, so you will need too exert firm pressure to press it onto the shaft. It should cover the entire shaft BUT NOT TOUCH the motor casing. Page 24 of 33

25 As you have already done for the X and Y axes, align the Z anti-backlash wingnut holes with the corresponding holes in the Z Carriage Block and attach it with the x 3/8 machine screws provided. Make sure that the rounded corners of the Z Carriage Block are nearest the motor. Use the same technique you found in the separate Anti-backlash & Motor Coupling instructions to dial out backlash from your Z axis. Your Z axis drivetrain should look like this. Page 25 of 33

26 5.4: The tips of the wingnuts have to be trimmed to clear the two Z guide rods. Make sure you have a sharp/new blade in your utility knife for this step. CAUTION: To avoid injury please be very careful to keep your fingers away from your knife when cutting in this next step. As shown in the next picture, trim the tips of the wingnut back so that they are flush/even with the sides of their mounting block. Use the edge of the mounting block as a guide. When trimmed pass the two Z guide rods through the Z Carriage Block to make sure they clear the trimmed wingnut, as shown below. Slide the Z guide rods up into the pockets in the Upper Cap Plate. 5.5: Place the Z Carriage and the Z guide rods into the two pockets in the Lower Cap Plate. Your Z guide rods should now be held on both ends in the cap plates. Align the two holes in the rear of the Z upper cap plate with the corresponding holes Page 26 of 33

27 in the top edge of Y Carriage Block. Attach the Upper Cap Plate with the 2 hex socket head 6-32 x 3/4 screws provided, using your 7/16 hex wrench as shown. Finger-start them so as to not cross-thread the screws, and tighten down firmly with the hex wrench. STEP 6: Attach the X and Y Motors 6.1: You can use either remaining motor for either axis. Just as you attached the Z Motor to it's coupling, press the X axis motor into its coupling as shown. Apply firm pressure as it is a tight fit, making sure that the coupling doesn't touch the motor casing. 6.2: Align two of the motor mounting holes with the corresponding holes on the chassis Page 27 of 33

28 front frame member. The motor cables should point downwards. The raised flange on the motor should fit snugly into the recess machined into the frame. Attach with the two longest M3 30mm machine screws as shown in the picture. Tighten down for a firm fit. Your Sprite Desktop CNC Machine should now look like this. 6.3: Press the Y motor into it's coupling as you have done with the X and Z axes as shown in the picture. Use firm pressure and DO NOT LET the coupling touch the motor casing. Page 28 of 33

29 Align the motor with the four motor mount holes in the GSU and attach the motor using the 4 M3 x 14mm machine screws provided. The motor cables should point downwards. The raised flange on the motor should fit into the large center hole of the motor mount. Tighten them down with a screwdriver to ensure a firm, secure fit. STEP 7: Attach the Spindle Note: Shown is the HiTorque spindle. The procedure is identical for the Standard Spindle. 7.1: Locate the two spindle retaining rings. Place them over the spindle body, starting with the largest, sliding it up the body. The smaller spindle mount will be a snug fit for the nose of the spindle. Press the spindle firmly into the mount as shown. Page 29 of 33

30 Orient the spindle mounts so that the speed control knob and the chuck lock both face forward. Make sure the upper spindle mount is in the correct location by holding it against the Tool Backplate as shown in the picture below. The holes in the back edge of the spindle mounts must match the location of the corresponding holes on the Tool Backplate. 7.2: In the rear of the spindle mounts you will find set screws in the threaded holes. In the smaller nose mount the set screw is in the center of the rear face, between the two mounting holes. In the larger spindle mount, there are set screws INSIDE the two threaded mounting holes. Using your 1/16 hex wrench, tighten the set screws in only the nose mount so that its clamp the spindle in position. 7.3: Using 2 of the hex head 6-32 x 1/2 machine screws provided, attach the spindle nose mounting bracket to the Tool Backplate. Make sure the screws are firmly tightened. Page 30 of 33

31 Align the upper mounting bracket so that you can see the bracket mounting holes through the corresponding holes in the Tool Backplate. Using the 1/16 hex wrench, tighten the set screws in the upper spindle mount to lock in the spindle as shown in the picture. Using 2 of the hex head 6-32 x 1/2 machine screws to attach the upper spindle mount to the Tool Backplate through the same holes. Tighten down the screws. The Spindle should Page 31 of 33

32 now be firmly attached to the Tool Backplate. 7.3: Using the 4 hex head 6-32 x 3/8 machine screws provided, attach the spindle assembly to the Z Carriage as shown below. Page 32 of 33

33 Finally, align the holes in the edges of the Gantry Backbrace with the corresponding holes in the GSU's. Attach the Gantry Backbrace using the 6 #4 x 3/4 screws provided. A power screwdriver will be helpful for this step, though a manual screwdriver will also work well. You should now have a fullyassembled Sprite Desktop CNC Machine that looks like the following picture. NEXT STEPS: Please refer to the Comprehensive Plans & Manual ebook and the Wiring and Electronics Instructions to complete the wiring of your electronics to your PC and your Sprite Desktop CNC Machine. You'll find both in the Support section of our website. If you purchased our USB Solution, please refer to the FabCAM docs for operation. For technical assistance please use the tech support ticket form under the Contacts section of our website. Page 33 of 33

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