SUCRAGEL 100% natural emulsifiers and oil thickeners
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- Miles Greene
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1 FORMULATION GUIDE SUCRAGEL 100% natural emulsifiers and oil thickeners Sucragel AP / Sucragel CF / Sucragel AOF / Sucragel AOF Bio CONTENTS Formulation Sucragel Grade Page Formulation Sucragel Grade Page Daily Moisturiser CF/AP/AOF/Bio 3 Cold Process Cream CF/AP/AOF/Bio 4 Multi-Gel to Milk CF/AP 5 Sparkling Gel CF/AP 18 Butter Mist AOF/Bio 19 Sugar Scrub CF/AP/AOF/Bio 20 Foaming Gel-to-Milk Cleanser CF/AP 6 Organic Bath Cream AOF/Bio 21 Natural Multi-Gel to Milk AOF/Bio 7 Easi-Rinse Facial Polish AOF/Bio 8 Fluid Cleanser CF/AP 9 Light Lotion CF/AP/AOF/Bio 10 Nourishing Cream CF/AP/AOF/Bio 11 Lip Balm CF/AP 12 Lavender Toner AP 13 Energising Body Scrub CF/AP 14 Blooming Bath Oil CF/AP/AOF/Bio 15 Micro-Lite Intensive Spray CF/AP 16 I Can t Believe It IS Butter! CF 17 Super Hydrating Serum CF 22 Massage Gel CF/AP 23 Nail Balm AOF/Bio 24 Gentle Hand Wash AP 25 SPF 30 Sun Spray CF/AP 26 SPF 50 Sun Spray CF/AP 27 Natural Hair Mask AOF 28 Natural Leave-In Conditioner AOF 29 Gentle Wet Wipe Solution AOF 30 Basic Wet Wipe Solution CF 31 Clarifying Face Mask CF 32 1 Tel: +44 (0) [email protected] Website: alfacos.co.uk Issue date: 12th March 2015
2 How to use SUCRAGEL WHAT IS SUCRAGEL? Sucragel is a cold process emulsifier for oil in water emulsions and also works as an oil thickener. It comes in liquid form making it easy to use. Oily gels formed with Sucragel will instantly emulsify on contact with water. Sucragel holds oil in place in a stable micro-emulsion and when water is added the mix changes into a cream or a light lotion giving countless possibilities. There are 4 variables available, Sucragel CF, AP, AOF and AOF BIO which is 94% certified organic. MAKING AN OILY GEL WITH SUCRAGEL Use 1:4 ratio of Sucragel to oil phase for Sucragel CF and AOF/AOF BIO. Use a 1:5 ratio of Sucragel to oil phase for Sucragel AP. For CF & AP, any oils can be gelled (including Silicones, sun filters, butters, waxes, esters, synthetic oils). For AOF & AOF BIO, only vegetable oils and vegetable based butters and waxes can be gelled. Add the oil very slowly into the Sucragel using a propeller stirrer on a fast speed. The oily gel will thicken rapidly and the stirring speed and height of the stirrer will need to be increased as more oil is added. Formulation must remain between ph 4-8 at all times. Can be used at either room temperature or at temperatures up to 80ºC. MAKING AN EMULSION WITH SUCRAGEL Use Sucragel at 5-10% in the oil phase. Sucragel can be used as a cold process emulsifier in the oil phase and the emulsion made in the usual way (add to the water phase under homogenisation). Often a co-emulsifier is also needed and also a water thickener in the water phase to provide viscosity. Alternatively, you can gel the oil phase of your emulsion and then dilute the oily gel with the water phase. The final emulsion will have a micro-emulsion aspect and will be more stable by going through the oily gel intermediate. Please refer to our training video, frequently asked questions and our trouble shooting flowchart for more information on how to use Sucragel to create a wide range of products. USING SUCRABLEND SP V2 Sucrablend is made from two sucrose esters to be used in conjunction with Sucragel to improve the high temperature stability of oily gel formulations. Sucrablend is a powder and must be heated in the Sucragel at 75C until it is completely dissolved before creating the oily gel. Sucrablend does not affect the clarity or viscosity of an oily gel formulation, it just structures the gel to make it more robust and less prone to oil leaching at high temperatures. 2 Tel: +44 (0) [email protected] Website: alfacos.co.uk Issue date: 12th March 2015
3 Daily Moisturiser A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate 7.00 AlfaCos A Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé A Dub Inin Isononyl Isononanoate 4.00 Stearinerie Dubois A Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 2.00 Elementis A Lexemul 561 Glyceryl Stearate 2.50 Inolex A Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol B Water Aqua B Original Extract Lemon BIO Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Water Gattefossé B Glycerine Glycerin B Sucraclear HC-31 Cellulose Gum, Carrageenan, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Sucrose C Gatuline In-Tense Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract 1.20 AlfaCos 2.00 Gattefossé C Euxyl PE9010 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.70 Schülke & Mayr C Fragrance Fragrance White cream. Heat phase A to 75ºC. Slowly disperse the Sucraclear in the glycerine and then in water under high stirring and heat to 75ºC. Homogenise phase B. Slowly add phase A to phase B under homogenisation. Cool to 40ºC. Add phase C and adjust ph if necessary to On stability at 45 C. ph = 5.5 Vicsosity: mpa.s 3
4 Cold Process Cream A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate 6.00 AlfaCos A Cetiol 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate Cognis A Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA B Water Aqua B Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum B Glycerine Glycerin C Euxyl K700 Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate 2.00 AlfaCos 1.00 Schűlke & Mayre C Lemon Secrets Citrus Medica Limonium (Lemon) Fruit Extract 0.50 Gattefossé C Fashion Soin Fragrance 0.20 Aromax White cream. Mix Sucrathix into the glycerine and then disperse in the water using a homogeniser for 5 minutes. Mix together Phase A Add Phase A into Phase B under the homogeniser. Keep on stirring until homogeneous. Finally add Phase C. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C. ph = 5.5 N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with any other grade of Sucragel in this formulation. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 4
5 Multi-Gel to Milk A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé C Fragrance/Essential Oils Parfum D Water Aqua Clear oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Heat Phase B in a separate beaker to 70 C. Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then slowly add Phase B into the mixture. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Allow cooling down to room temperature and add Phase C and D. Stable at least 4 months at 45 C. (Note: the gel turns translucent at 45 C) N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with Sucragel AP at 15% 5
6 Foaming Gel-to-Milk Cleanser A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé C Puract 178* Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Innospec D Fragrance Parfum Clear/opaque Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Start the propeller stirrer in Phase A at a fast speed and add the Phase B very slowly into the Sucragel. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). When cooled to room temperature, stir in Phase C. On Stability at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF could be replaced by Sucragel AP at 15%. *You can also use other powdered surfactants such as: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate / Puract WSP Sodium lauryl Sulfate / Stepanol WA-100 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate / Crodasinic LS-95 6
7 Natural Multi-Gel to Milk A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos B Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil B Essential Oils Essential Oils B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA Clear oily gel. Have the Sucragel AOF under the propeller mixer at quite a fast speed. Mix together Phase B. Slowly add Phase B into the Sucragel AOF at room temperature. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Stable at least 3 months at 45 C. N.B Sucragel AOF can be replaced with AOF Bio. 7
8 Easi-Rinse Facial Polish A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos B Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA C Olive Exfoliator 500 Olea Europaea (Olive) Seed 2.00 Lessonia D Fragrance / Essential Oil Fragrance / Essential Oil Clear oily gel with small exfoliating particles. Have the Sucragel AOF under the propeller mixer at quite a fast speed. Mix together Phase B. Slowly add Phase B into the Sucragel AOF at room temperature. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Stir in Phase C, followed by Phase D. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C. N.B Sucragel AOF can be replaced with AOF Bio. 8
9 Fluid Cleanser A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Glycerine Glycerin A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé C Fragrance Parfum C Water Aqua Hazy fluid oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then slowly add Phase B into the mixture. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Allow cooling down to room temperature and add Phase C. Stability is being monitored at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with Sucragel AP at 25% in this formulation. 9
10 Light Lotion A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate 6.00 AlfaCos A Cetiol 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate Cognis A Lipocire A Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides B Water Aqua B Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum B Glycerine Glycerin C Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 5.00 Gattefossé 2.00 AlfaCos 3.50 Dr. Straetmans C Dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua 0.10 Dr. Straetmans White light lotion. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C. Disperse the gums in the water and heat to 70 C. Add Phase A to Phase B using a homogeniser. Cool down to room temperature and add Phase C. Stable at least 5 months at 45 C. ph = 5.0 N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced by any grade of Sucragel in this formulation The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 10
11 Nourishing Cream A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé A Lipocire A Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 5.00 Gattefossé A BR Forest Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter 5.00 Chemyunion A Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 5.00 Elementis A Rice Bran Oil Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil 2.00 Elementis A Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Cognis A Cutina GMS-SE Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.00 Cognis A Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA B Water Aqua B Sucraclear HC-31 Cellulose Gum, Carrageenan, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Sucrose B Glycerine Glycerin AlfaCos C Symdiol 68 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol 1.20 Symrise C Lemon Secrets Citrus Medica Limonium (Lemon) Fruit Extract 0.30 Gattefossé C Fragrance / Essential Oils Fragrance / Essential Oils White light lotion. Disperse the Sucrathix into the glycerine and then into the water phase. Heat Phases A and B up to 70 C. Homogenise Phase B until uniform. Add Phase A into Phase B using a homogeniser. Cool down to room temperature under moderate mixing and add Phase C. Stable for at least 3 month at 45 C N.B Sucragel AOF can be replaced by Sucragel AOF BIO in this formulation 11
12 Lip Balm A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Beeswax Cera Alba 2.00 Koster Keunen B Activeshine Amazon Orbignya Speciosa Kernel Oil, Astrocarium Murumuru Butter 2.50 Chemyunion B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA C Gemtone Amber G001 Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides 0.10 BASF Sparkling oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved Mix together Phase B and heat to 70 C. Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then very slowly add Phase B. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Cool to room temperature. Add Phase C. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with Sucragel AP in this formulation at 15% 12
13 Lavender Toner A Lavender Essential Oil Lavandula Angustofolia (Lavender) Herb Oil A Euxyl K700 Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate B Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate 0.80 Schűlke & Mayre 5.00 AlfaCos C Original Extract Lemon BIO Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Water Gattefossé C Water Aqua Slightly cloudy water. Mix together Phase A. Slowly add Phase A into Phase B under stirring. Slowly add Phase C into the mixture under stirring. This product is currently on stability at 45 C. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 13
14 Energising Body Scrub A Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 1.00 AlfaCos B Sunflower Oil Helianthis Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil B Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA C Guarana Exfoliator 1000 Paulinia Cupana (Guarana) Seed Powder 4.00 Lessonia C Coffee Exfoliator 2000 Coffee Arabica (Coffee) Seed Powder 1.00 Lessonia Clear yellow gel with scrub particles. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Have Phase A under the propeller mixer at quite a fast speed. Add Phase B slowly into the Sucragel AP mix. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Finally stir in Phase C. On Stability at 45 C N.B Sucragel AP can be replaced with Sucragel CF 14
15 Blooming Bath Oil A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos A Organic Glycerine Glycerin B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B Neroli Essential Oil Citris Aurantium Flower Oil B Mandarin Essential Oil Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil B Chamomile Essential Oil Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil B Pine Essential Oil Abies Alba Needle Oil Clear yellow liquid. Mix the glycerine into the Sucragel. Add the essential oils into the Sunflower oil. Very slowly under propeller stirrer add Phase B into Phase A. Stable at least 2 months at 45 C NB: Sucragel AOF can be replaced by AOF BIO 15
16 Micro-Lite Intensive Spray A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate B Petroleum Gel Petrolatum AlfaCos B Lanolin Wax Lanolin Wax 1.50 NK Chemicals B Light Liquid Paraffin Paraffinum Liquidum NK Chemicals C Water Aqua C Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum 1.00 AlfaCos D Euxyl PE9010 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.60 Schűlke & Mayre White thin emulsion. Heat Phase A to 70 C Heat Phase B in another beaker to 70 C. Start the propeller in the Sucragel CF at quite a fast speed and then add the Phase B slowly into the mixture. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Heat the water to 70 C Disperse the Sucrathix into the water phase using a homogeniser. Slowly add Phase C into the oily gel under constant stirring. Finally homogenise for 5 minutes until the emulsion is homogenous. When cooled add Phase D. On Stability at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with any Sucragel AP in this formulation. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 16
17 I Can t Believe It IS Butter! A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii Elementis B Activeshine Amazon Orbignya Speciosa Kernel Oil, Astrocarium Murumuru Butter Chemyunion B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA Transparent oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then very slowly add Phase B. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Cool to room temperature. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced with Sucragel AP in this formulation at 20% 17
18 Sparkling Gel A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Cetiol 868 Ethyhexyl Stearate Cognis C Nirvana Soin ARX/30214 Fragrance 0.50 Aromax C Flamenco Sparkle Gold 220J Mica, Titanium Dioxide 0.50 BASF C Timica Extra Large Sparkle 1105 Mica, Titanium Dioxide 0.50 BASF Sparkling oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Heat the Cetiol 868 up to 70 C in a separate beaker. Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then add the Cetiol 868 slowly into the mixture. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Allow cooling down to room temperature and stir in Phase C. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C. N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced by Sucragel AP at 15% in this formulation. 18
19 Butter Mist A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii AlfaCos B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4.00 Gattefossé C Water Aqua C Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum D Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 1.00 AlfaCos 3.50 Dr. Straetmans D Dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua 0.10 Dr. Straetmans White thin emulsion. Heat Phase A to 70 C Heat Phase B in another beaker to 70 C. Start the propeller in the Sucragel CF at quite a fast speed and then add the Phase B slowly into the mixture. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Heat the water to 70 C Disperse the Sucrathix into the water phase using a homogeniser. Slowly add Phase C into the oily gel under constant stirring. Finally homogenise for 5 minutes until the emulsion is homogenous. When cooled add Phase D. Stable for at least 1 month at 45 C N.B Sucragel CF can be replaced by Sucragel AP in this formulation The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 19
20 Sugar Scrub A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil C Crystallized Sugar Sucrose Thick oily gel scrub which turns into milk when rinsed off or when used upon wet skin. At room temperature start the propeller in the Sucragel AOF at quite a fast speed then add the sunflower oil slowly into the Sucragel AOF. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Then add then the crystallized sugar under stirring. Stable for at least 1 month at 45 C N.B Sucragel AOF can be replaced with Sucragel AOF Bio in this formulation. 20
21 Organic Bath Cream A Sucragel AOF BIO Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Water AlfaCos B Organic Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B Organic Safflower Oil Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil B Organic Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter C Surfhope C1215L Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol Mitsubishi C Organic Glycerine Glycerin D Organic Lavender Essential Oil Lavandula Angustifolia Herb Oil D Organic Geranium Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil D Organic Chamomile Essential Oil Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil D Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 3.50 Dr. Straetmans Creamy white liquid. Heat Phase A to 70 C Heat Phase B in a separate beaker to 70 C Slowly, add Phase B into under propeller mixer at quite a fast speed. Cool to room temperature. Stir Phase C into the gel. Use the homogeniser to mix in Phase D. Stable for 1 month at 45 C NB: AOF BIO can be replaced by any other grade of Sucragel in this formulation The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 21
22 Super Hydrating Serum A Water Aqua A Original Extract Lemon BIO Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Water A Glycerin Glycerin Gattefossé A Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum 1.50 AlfaCos B Meadowfoam Seed Oil Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil Elementis B Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate 6.00 AlfaCos B Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 4.00 Elementis B Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil B Glyceryl Stearate SE Glyceryl Stearate C Gatuline RC Bio Water (and) Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract 2.00 Gattefossé C Gatuline Skin Repair Bio Alcohol (and) Water (and) Onopordum Acanthium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract C Fragrance Essential Oil Blend Gattefossé C Euxyl K712 Aqua, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate 0.20 Schűlke & Mayre C Citric Acid 10% sol. Citric Acid q.s. - Thin white emulsion Disperse the Sucrathix in Glycerine and then into the water. Heat to 75C and then homogenise until the Sucrathix is fully dispersed. Mix together phase B and heat to 75C Slowly add phase B into phase A under homogenisation and cool to 40C Add phase C and adjust ph if necessary. On Stability at 45 C ph: 5.14 Viscosity: mpa.s 22
23 Massage Gel A Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate AlfaCos A Sucrablend SP V2 Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Palmitate 0.50 AlfaCos B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B IPP Isopropyl Palmitate ISP B Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil B Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Gattefossé C Fragrance Parfum Clear light yellow oily gel. Mix together Phase A and heat to 70 C until all the Sucrablend has completely dissolved. Slowly add Phase B into Phase A under propeller stirrer. Adjust the stirring speed as the viscosity of the gel increases. Cool to room temperature and finally add Phase C under stirring. On Stability at 45 C N.B Sucragel AP can be replaced with Sucragel CF at 20% 23
24 Nail Balm A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos B Olive Oil Olea Europaea B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii 8.00 Elementis B Rosehip Oil Rosa Mosqueta Seed Oil C Rosemary Extract Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract C Lemon Essential Oil Citrus Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil C Water Aqua Gattefossé Creamy gel. Heat Phase A to 70 C. Mix together Phase B and heat to 70 C Start the propeller in Phase A at quite a fast speed and then slowly add Phase B. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). When it has cooled to room temperature add Phase C under a propeller stirrer. Stable at least 2 months at 45 C. (Note: the gel turns clear at 45 C) N.B Sucragel AOF can be replaced by Sucragel AOF BIO in this formulation. 24
25 Gentle Hand Wash A Water Aqua A Original Extract Grapefruit Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Water Gattefossé A Sucraclear HC-31 Cellulose Gum, Carrageenan, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Sucrose A Glycerine Glycerin B Betaine Betaine B Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate 1.50 AlfaCos AlfaCos C Euxyl PE9010 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.60 Schűlke & Mayre C Geranium Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil Clear hand wash. Disperse the Sucraclear in the glycerine and add to the water. Heat to 70 C. Add the Original Extract Grapefruit into the water phase and homogenise until the Sucraclear is fully dispersed. Cool to room temperature. Stir in Phase B. Finally stir in Phase C. This product is currently on stability at 45 C. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 25
26 SPF 30 Sun Spray A Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate 5.40 AlfaCos B Escalol 517 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 Ashland Inc. B Escalol 557 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Ashland Inc. B Vitamin E Acetate Vitamin E Acetate 3.00 BASF B Paraffin Oil Paraffin Oil 0.10 NK Chemicals B Eusolex Methyl Benzidenecamphor 4.00 EMD Chemicals B Lexfilm Sun Polyester-7, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate 1.50 Inolex B Geranium Essential Oil Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil C Water Aqua C Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum D Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 1.00 AlfaCos 3.50 Dr. Straetmans D Dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua 0.10 Dr. Straetmans Thin white emulsion. Heat Phase A to 70 C. Mix together Phase B and heat to 70 C. Slowly, add Phase B into the Sucragel under propeller mixer at quite a fast speed to form a gel. Disperse the Sucrathix in the water. Heat this mixture up to 70 C and homogenise. Slowly add Phase C into the oily gel under constant stirring. Finally homogenise for 5 minutes until the emulsion is homogenous. Cool down to room temperature and finally add Phase D. N.B Sucragel AP can be replaced with Sucragel CF The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. 26
27 SPF 50 Sun Spray A Sucragel AP Glycerine, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Alcohol, Sucrose Myristate 5.00 AlfaCos B Parsol 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 5.00 Ashland Inc. B Uvinum T-150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 1.00 Ashland Inc. B Uvinul A Plus Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 3.00 BASF B Parsol MCX Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.50 NK Chemicals B Tinosorb S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.00 EMD Chemicals B Neohelipan 303 Octocrylene 6.50 Inolex B Lexfilm Sun Polyester-7, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate 3.00 Inolex C Water Aqua - C Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum D Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate Thin white emulsion. Heat Phase A to 70 C. Mix together Phase B and heat to 70 C Slowly, add Phase B into the Sucragel under propeller mixer at quite a fast speed to form a gel. Disperse the Sucrathix in the water. Heat this mixture up to 70 C, and homogenise. Slowly add Phase C into the oily gel under constant stirring. Finally homogenise for 5 minutes until the emulsion is homogenous. Cool down to room temperature and finally add Phase D. On Stability at 45 C. N.B Sucragel AP can be replaced with Sucragel CF The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. AlfaCos Dr. Straetmans D Dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans 27
28 Natural Hair Mask A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua AlfaCos B Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 2.00 Elementis B Activeshine Amazon Orbignya Speciosa Kernel Oil, Astrocarium Murumuru Butter B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Chemyunion B Apricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil B Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil B Rosemary Oily Extract Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract 0.10 Gattefossé B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA C Fragrance / Essential Oils Fragrance / Essential Oils Yellow oily gel which emulsifies on contact with water Heat Phase A to 70 C Heat Phase B to 70 C Using a propeller stirrer, slowly add Phase B into the Phase A mixing vigorously Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Continue stirring until cool. When cooled to room temperature add Phase C. On stability at 45 C N.B The Sucragel AOF in this formulation can be directly replaced with Sucragel AOF BIO. Alternatively, Sucragel CF and AP can be used as long as 1% Sucrablend SP is used alongside it. 28
29 Natural Leave-In Conditioner A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua 6.00 AlfaCos B Abyssinian Oil Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 1.00 Elementis B Activeshine Amazon Orbignya Speciosa Kernel Oil, Astrocarium Murumuru Butter 2.00 Chemyunion B Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii 3.00 Elementis B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil B Natural Vitamin E Tocopherol 0.10 BTSA C Water Aqua C Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum D Dermasoft 1388 ECO Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 1.00 AlfaCos 3.50 Dr. Straetmans D Dermafeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua 0.10 Dr. Straetmans D Fragrance / Essential Oils Fragrance / Essential Oils Thin white emulsion. Heat Phase A to 70 C Heat Phase B in another beaker to 70 C. Using a propeller stirrer, slowly add Phase B into the Phase A mixing vigorously. Increase the stirring speed and height of the propeller stirrer as the viscosity of the gel increases (it should increase as the oil is added). Heat the water to 75 C Disperse the Sucrathix into the water phase using a homogeniser. Slowly add phase C into the oily gel under constant stirring. Finally homogenise for 5 minutes until the emulsion is homogenous. When cooled to room temperature add Phase D. On stability at 45 C The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. N.B The Sucragel AOF in this formulation can be directly replaced with Sucragel AOF BIO, CF, or AP. 29
30 Gentle Wet Wipe Solution A Sucragel AOF Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua B Water Aqua B Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum 1.00 AlfaCos 1.00 AlfaCos C Euxyl K700 Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate 0.60 Schűlke & Mayre D Essential Oil Essential Oil A gently fragranced wet wipe solution. Disperse the Sucrathix VX in water using a homogeniser at room temperature. Stir in Phase C & D into Phase A. Add Phase B slowly into Phase ACD using a propeller stirrer or spatula (depending on the size of your batch). Homogenise the solution for 5 minutes until completely uniform. On Stability at 45 C. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. N.B The Sucragel AOF in this formulation can be directly replaced by any grade of Sucragel. 30
31 Basic Wet Wipe Solution A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate B Water Aqua B Sucrathix VX Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum 2.00 AlfaCos 1.00 AlfaCos C Euxyl K700 Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate 0.60 Schűlke & Mayre Slightly cloudy thin liquid. Disperse the Sucrathix VX in water using a homogeniser at room temperature. Stir in phase C into Phase A. Add Phase B slowly into Phase AC using a propeller stirrer or spatula (depending on the size of your batch). Homogenise the solution for 5 minutes until completely uniform. On Stability at 45 C. The preservative system in this formulation has not been challenge tested. Other systems can be used. N.B The Sucragel CF in this formulation can be directly replaced by any grade of Sucragel. 31
32 Clarifying Face Mask A Sucragel CF Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate AlfaCos A Labrafac CC Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Gattefossé B Microzest 50 Rice Oryze Sativa Powder 4.00 Lessonia B Microzest 50 Coconut Cocus Nucifera Shell Powder 2.50 Lessonia B Glycerin Glycerin C Clay Kaolin D Fragrance Essential oil blend Brown creamy oily gel. Leave on the skin for 10 minutes and wash off with water turning the mask into a luxurious creamy milk leaving the skin soft and supple. Add the Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides into the Sucragel under propeller stirrer. Add the oil very slowly and increase the speed and height of the stirrer as the gel thickens. Mix together the powders in Phase B with the glycerine. Add Phase B into Phase A under a propeller stirrer, or using a spatula (depending on the size of your batch). Slowly stir in Phase C. Stir in Phase D. Stable at least 3 months at 45 C. 32
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