CANARY ISLANDS. Fuerteventura Mon 2 nd Sun 8 th November Limosa Holidays Trip Report. report compiled by tour leader: Stephen Daly

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1 Limosa Holidays Trip Report CANARY ISLANDS Fuerteventura Mon 2 nd Sun 8 th November 2015 Trip photos (clockwise, from top): Two fine views of Houbara Bustard, one normal and one just beginning its foaming display as it runs about in circles like a headless chicken! A lovely male Spectacled Warbler of the local race Trumpeter Finches are often abundant in some areas and males a rosy pink below A small part of the large flock of Barbary Partridges we saw on the plains Laughing Doves may have been introduced accidentally or appeared on their own steam from West Africa Tour leader Stephen Daly, Daly Wildlife report compiled by tour leader: Stephen Daly 1 Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0) / info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Fuerteventura The Canary Islands in Autumn Tour leader: Stephen Daly with Richard & Margaret Bentley, Debbie Burkett, Phil & Lesley Eastlake, Tony Jones and Brian Russell The Canary Islands are well known for their tourist beaches and off-season sun seekers, but away from the few larger holiday resorts, these islands have some intimate natural history secrets all of their own. Fuerteventura holds a special group of very particular African desert bird species and Canary Island endemic species or subspecies that can be seen on an island that is full of colour from dramatic volcanic forms which show the island group s origins, some 100 million years ago. The deep black, ancient basaltic rocks, reminiscent of the volcanic Bass Rock in Scotland, contrast against the reds and browns of the newer rocks laid down by more recent volcanic activity, together with the ochre and sand colours of cinder cones and mountains that dot the island. The long, erosive powers of wind, sea and rain have more recently shaped the island of Fuerteventura and nowadays most of the dramatic and spectacular landscapes are Protected Natural Spaces, which contain hundreds of endemic species of flora. Lying approximately 80kms from the Moroccan coastline and only 8kms from it s nearest Canary Island neighbour, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura has the greatest variety of birdlife in the entire Canaries archipelago and it is also a transit area for many migratory birds. The islands are an important breeding area for breeding seabirds and nestling between these two northerly islands is the tiny island of Lobos, home to a breeding colony of Cory s Shearwaters. The highlights of any tour here are almost certainly going to be those special birds found in its dry stony plains and barrancos: Houbara Bustard (here easier to see than anywhere in the world) and Canary Islands Stonechat, plus Berthelot s Pipit, Trumpeter Finch, Creamcoloured Courser and African Blue Tit. We also saw the recently split and endemic Fuerteventura Green-striped White butterfly. Tour Diary Day 1 - Monday 2nd November 2105 Thick fog at Gatwick delayed the group flight and so they didn t arrive on Fuerteventura until early evening. By this time the light was gone, so after meeting Stephen who had flown on to the island earlier that day from Frankfurt, we headed straight to our hotel at La Oliva, dropped off the luggage and took our evening meal. It had been a rather frustrating day for all and quite tiring too. Day 2 - Tuesday 3rd November Fuerteventura was literally awash with water and a few days previously there had been some very scary flash flooding with torrential rain over a few days! This had made access to some of the better birding locations rather difficult with a minibus. Keeping well clear of such difficulties, we took a short drive before breakfast to a little agricultural area close to the town and set up our telescopes to see what was being beautifully lit up as the warm sun lit up the landscape. Four Desert Grey Shrikes and at least ten Hoopoes was the perfect start after yesterday s frustrating flight delay! Further scanning across the fields and small pools of water we found a huge flock of Spanish Sparrows feeding with many Trumpeter Finches and a few Common Linnets. Ruddy Shelduck honked loudly from the fields as other shelduck flew in and landed, disappearing over the many ridges and dykes in the small plots or fields. 2 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

3 Two Common Buzzards of the Fuerteventuran race insularum were seen perched then flying as were at least two pairs of Common Kestrels, also a different race. Grey Herons and a Little Egret were present and six Corn Buntings sat around calling on a fence quite close us. Berthelot s Pipits and a few White Wagtails walked and fed close to us as well and we could see the lovely markings on these delicate birds. Returning to the hotel and with breakfast taken we set off once more, this time down to Tindaya Plain. The landscape leading from the small town of Tindaya slopes gently westwards towards the dramatic basalt cliff on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The weathered surface of the plain is strewn with medium to small stones with lots of exposed sandy spaces where desert species of birds are typically found. There are quite a few ruins of abandoned properties that stand out against the flat landscape, where at one time people had tried to eek out a living in this inhospitable place. Some higher stonewalls mark out such old dwellings, but in general the landscape is criss-crossed with straight lines of stones marking boundary properties owned, one would expect, by someone though one wonders if there is any value to owning such land. There are a few metalled roads and more cinder tracks that can be driven with a normal car with care. The barranco or gorge to the north and east it may be difficult in times of wet weather, although the island is dry most of the year. Flash flooding would be the biggest concern during any rainy period. The first birds we came across were Desert Grey Shrikes and at this time of the year they are getting into breeding mode and starting to chatter and sing a few notes. They were not so skittish and watching these mini raptors is always a joy. A single Stone-curlew was watched resting low between some rocks and we has very good views. Lesser Short-toed Larks were seen feeding and a few Common Linnets and Trumpeter Finches flew overhead and were later seen feeding on the ground. We took lunch at Los Molinos and stayed in the shade of the restaurant's terrace as a first year Northern Gannet dived for fish in the bay. There were plenty of Yellow-legged Gulls flying past as well. After lunch we checked out the local reservoir and it was full of water but surprisingly very few wildfowl apart from Ruddy Shelduck. Coots were on the water and feeding around the edges were two Common Sandpipers. One bird species of note was a pair of Canary Islands Stonechats that were watched on the wall of a ruin near the edge of the reservoir, with a very obliging female Common Kestrel hunting insects on the ground very close to the minibus. Continuing through the open landscape of Tindaya we eventually came across a male Houbara Bustard, which was an excellent end to our first full day out in the field. We had time to relax at dinner and discuss plans for the following day. Day 3 - Wednesday 4th November A few billowing clouds were soon chased away by a lovely sunrise at dawn. Our visit to the agricultural areas around La Oliva gave us some very good views of Hoopoes, calling, preening and fluttering about as well as the same good numbers of bird species from the previous morning. Back close to the hotel we watched a pair of Laughing Doves and a few Desert Grey Shrikes. After breakfast Phil spotted two Plain Swifts heading north over the hotel and a small party of Black-bellied Sandgrouse were also seen in flight. We then travelled cross-country towards Betancuria, but stopped when Tony spotted some scurrying ground birds in the countryside near Tefia. We turned around and drove into a small track where to our delight we saw at least 50 Barbary Partridge running across the stony ground. Most were reluctant to fly but eventually half of the group took flight and landed close by. After enjoying the sight of the partridges we continued on, stopping on top of the mountain range above Betancuria where we found many Ravens and a very confiding pair of African Blue Tits. 3 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

4 The day was warming up as we arrived and parked in Betancuria and took a coffee in the shade, watching another African Blue Tit carrying nesting material in it's beak to a crack in a stone wall in the town. We then explored the barranco, where we found Spectacled Warbler, Sardinian Warblers, Robin and a Blackcap. Common Kestrels and Collared Doves were noted and a Grey Heron was also seen. There were plenty of Ravens and Barbary Ground Squirrels to be seen on the mountainous roadsides. Driving a few kilometres south we again stopped and walked through the barranco to some taller tamarisk trees and found several Chiffchaffs of varying colour as well as another Sardinian Warbler, Willow Warbler and a Yellow-browed Warbler, which was the first record for the island this year. We then drove down to Pájara, parked in the large public car park beside the barranco where Goldfinches sang in the thick tree line and a single Robin was seen. We took lunch at a local restaurant before heading inland towards Los Alares to scan the countryside for more birds. A few Common Buzzards were watched, as were quite a few local Common Kestrels. Driving across the landscape we stopped at the side of the road after a lone raptor was seen which turned out to be a pale form of Booted Eagle. Common Buzzards of the local race came past to watch the eagle and we all had excellent views before heading to a small goat farm. There wasn't much to report around the goat farm although we did spend some time watching another confiding Desert Grey Shrike; sadly no Egyptian Vultures or Barbary Falcons were around. We continued on to a small pond that had been filled by the recent rains. Here Ruddy Shelduck, Common Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper and Greenshank were seen with a group of ten Black-winged Stilts. Down at Castillo Caleta de Fuste and nearby Salinas del Carmen we found a few Whimbrel feeding on the rocky shore with a few Common Sandpipers. A Northern Gannet was also seen offshore. Back at our hotel we wrote up our trip list then took dinner before retiring for the night. Day 4 - Thursday 5th November This morning we looked around the edge of the town for Laughing Doves and found a few along with Spectacled Warblers, Hoopoes, Desert Grey Shrikes as well as many Collared Doves, Spanish Sparrows and Yellow-legged Gulls. A pair of Canary Islands Stonechats was also reported by some members of the group at the hotel. After a good breakfast we left in the minibus travelling to the north coast and the rocky shoreline near Majanicho - en route we had stopped and found four Little Ringed Plovers on a small pool. Here the white coral fragments have broken down and turned into thick sandlike particles and created a little stretch of 'beach' which contrasts sharply with the black basalt of the craggy bay, where little blue and white painted fishing boats lie at anchor or are busy working off the coast between Fuerteventura and Lanzarotte. A few Whimbrels fed along the shoreline as did Common Sandpiper, Greenshank and a Little Egret. Driving down to the El Cotillo Headland the track became too tricky to navigate and we took the coastal track, going off at times into the middle of the plain. A few distant Houbara Bustards were seen and we had closer views of two or three more before taking lunch in El Cotillo town. From the headland we watched a group of a dozen Cory's Shearwaters dipping low and turning, landing and following two of the small fishing boats that were coming back to the town's small harbour. Later we drove to Tefia, where we came across five Egyptian Vultures feeding on goat afterbirth. This was the season when the island s predominantly female goat population give birth to their kids and the vultures know where to get the best nutrition, which in turn stands them in good health for their own forthcoming breeding season in the early part of the coming year. Several Buzzards were seen and good numbers of Black-bellied Sandgrouse and Ruddy Shelduck. 4 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

5 Day 5 - Friday 6th November A cloudy start to the day cleared and for pre-breakfast walk a few of us toured the hotel area. Laughing Doves and Chiffchaffs were seen and a few Ravens flew past. After breakfast we took a drive south to the Antigua area and found a pair of Egyptian Vultures. These subspecies on the Canaries are often called the Canarian Egyptian Vulture and don't migrate. In recent times they were persecuted by man, their only natural enemy. A breeding and reintroduction programme for the Egyptian Vultures was started some time ago on Fuerteventura and numbers have slowly increased. In Morocco and other European sites most Egyptian Vultures normally head off to central Africa each autumn but weather conditions and food sourcing on the Canaries are such that they don't have to leave and this reduces migration hazards to and from their nesting areas where they hatched. Kestrels and Buzzards were seen in the area with the kestrels performing their usual aggressive attack dives at the larger perched buzzard. Taking a coffee and sheltering from the midday sun we relaxed for a while in the shade at a local village. We then drove slowly along the open stretches checking (unsuccessfully) telephone poles and wires and electricity pylons for Barbary Falcon. We did however find many more Desert Grey Shrikes, Berthelot's Pipits and a few Spectacled Warblers. We had lunch at Pajara and listened to some Goldfinches singing in the tall trees bordering the gorge. After lunch, we drove back north, cross country, to Tefia and the stony open landscape, where a few Hoopoes and Collared Doves flitted amongst some low Tamarisk bushes. Black-bellied Sandgrouse lifted into the air with a few Ruddy Shelduck as we approached the back of the Los Molinos reservoir and two Egyptian Vultures were circling in the area. As the sun was sinking in the afternoon sky, we travelled across to Tindaya and tried another Houbara Bustard search. This time we were in luck and saw three birds fairly close to the track. We stopped and watched them feeding and preening in beautiful light as the sun dipped below the Atlantic Ocean's horizon. It was dark when we arrived back at the hotel for dinner. Day 6 - Saturday 7th November We had a very productive start to the morning down at the agricultural area near La Oliva with good views of Ruddy Shelduck, Hoopoes, Buzzards and Kestrels. Quail was also heard calling. Laughing Doves and Chiffchaffs were seen back at the hotel and a few Ravens flew past calling loudly overhead. There was a car rally planned around the town of La Oliva and already some spectators had assembled on the main road so we headed away from their routes, driving down to Tindaya to search for Cream-coloured Coursers. It was a patient slog looking for birds that stop and crouch when you are in the area and can just look like any of the other million stones that litter the flat landscape. Eventually though Lesley managed to spot one bird walking slowly away from the track. By the time we turned around there was no sign of it. We drove slowly back towards La Oliva and decided to take an early lunch at a local restaurant before the weekend crowds came in. It was quite warm after lunch and we took a break back at the hotel and planned to go back down to Tindaya as we had done the evening before and watch the Houbaras at sunset (which comes early in winter). However, some of us explored the edge of the town while others rested. Desert Grey Shrikes, Spectacled Warblers and Hoopoes were very much in evidence and some of these lovely birds showed themselves really well and the Hoopoe's were very cooperative for those wishing to take photos. After assembling the entire group we left the hotel to travel the few kilometres down to Tindaya. Driving down the track towards the Atlantic we saw some male Houbara Bustards preening in the soft light. There were at least six birds visible, probably more but we 5 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

6 remained still and watched from the minibus as one or two males began ruffling their feathers and displaying. One male puffed up his white breast feathers and slung his head low over his 'foaming' chest and began running about like a huge white ball. It was an unbelievable display as the bird managed to avoid larger stones and keep up the momentum. It seemed difficult to know how the bird was able to watch where he was running as at times his feathers vibrated and caught the low sunlight as if he was on fire! We too were mesmerised by this wonderful display, which went on until the sun went down and was a wonderful way to end our tour on Fuerteventura. Easily the best place on the planet to see Houbara Bustards. Day 7 - Sunday 8th September After breakfast we packed and drove to the island's airport where we said our farewells. Thanks to all who took part in this birding and wildlife tour and I hope to see some of you on another adventure. Stephen Daly Annotated List of Birds Recorded (n=52) Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara koenigi Great views of a flock of 11 birds near Tindaya. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Heard calling near La Oliva Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Very common seen most days. Cory s Shearwater Calonectris borealis Distant views of six birds off El Cotillo. Northern Gannet Morus bassanus A few juveniles seen Little Egret Egretta garzeta Seen twice. Grey Heron Ardea cunerea A few birds seen on the coast, in flight and feeding at La Oliva. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus majorensis Good views of seven perched and flying birds, but seen on only two days. The population of Guirres is only c. 270 birds. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus One pale form seen. A rare bird on Fuerteventura. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo ssp. Insularum Fairly common. Houbara Bustard Chlamyditis undulata fuertaventurae Good views on three days Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus canariensis Fairly common seen most days. Barbary Falcon Falco peregrinoides One juvenile bird in flight seen close to the hotel. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seen once. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Large flock on the Embalse de La Oliva Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus insularum Seen twice with good views and heard once as well. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Seen twice. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Four seen on a small pool near Majanicho. 6 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

7 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Seen at Costa de Fustes and northern coast. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Seen three times on tour. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Only one bird seen. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Seen three times on tour Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor Very difficult to find this November, with only one bird seen near Tindaya. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michaellis Common and seen every day. Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis Good numbers seen feeding and in flight. Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia A common sight with pure Rock Doves seen on west coast. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Good views of one bird at La Oliva. Barn Owl Tyto alba gracilirostris Heard only. This subspecies has been mooted to be a separate species ( Slenderbilled Barn Owl ) on the basis of voice. Plain Swift Apus unicolor Two birds seen over our hotel. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Seen on six days. Lesser Short-toed Lark Alaudala rufescens polatzeki Fairly common seen most days with some large flocks. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Only seen once at Betancuria. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Four birds een only on one day. Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis Fairly common and seen near the hotel. Great views at Tindya, Betancuria and Tefia. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita A few seen each morning at the hotel and other sites. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus One bird seen south of Betancuria Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus One bird identified amongst other Phylloscopus warblers south of Betancuia. It was the first recorded this autumn on the Canary Islands European Robin Erithacus rubecula A few seen and heard. Common Blackbird Turdus merula Two seen at Betancuria. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Wintering birds at our hotel and other sites. Canary Islands Stonechat Saxicola dacotiae Seen on four days days. Present in hotel gardens. Desert Grey Shrike Lanius [meridionalis] koenigi Fairly abundant and often confiding. Northern Raven Corvus corax canariensis Common. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Common and seen daily at our hotel. 7 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk

8 Berthelot's Pipit Anthus berthelotii Common, watched also feeding with other species. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Two birds seen at Tefia. African Blue Tit Cyanistes teneriffae degener Present in towns and villages. Common Linnet Linaria cannabina harterti Seen most days Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Seen very briefly and hears singing at Pajara: Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus amantum Common. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Seen at La Oliva. Mammals Algerian Hedgehog Atelerix algirus (Road-kill) Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus (Road kill) Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus pipistrelle bat sp. Amphibians & Reptiles Loggerhead Turtle Carretta carretta Moorish Gecko Tarentola angustimentalis Atlantic Lizard Gallotia atlantica tortoise sp. introduced to the island Butterflies Bath White Pontia daplidice Fuerteventura Green-striped White Euchloe hesperidum Greenish Black Tip Elphinstonia charlonia African Migrant Catopsilia florella Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae Clouded Yellow Colias crocea Monarch Danaus plexippus Painted Lady Vanessa cardui Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta Dragonflies Vagrant Emperor Dragonfly Anax ephippiger Blue Emperor Anax imperator Blue-tailed Damselfly Ischnura saharensis Scarlet Darter Crocothemis erythraea Other Taxa Crimson Speckled Utetheisa pulchella Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum 8 Limosa Holidays limosaholidays.co.uk