White is the new Black

Transcription

1 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 1/ opens with ISO CSR Award Feedback from Perfumers Trend White is the new Black TechnicoFlor News Trade Fairs and 2016 Trend Notebook

2 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 2/8 TechnicoFlor has been evaluated for ISO and was awarded 3 stars in recognition of our Corporate Social Responsibility strategy. A matter of immense pride for us all. This rewards the joint effort of TechnicoFlor staff, creating fine fragrances in a spirit of respect for human values and environmental protection. This is the first step in an ethical approach bringing the finest perfumes to the consumer and ensuring that non-toxic and environmentally friendly fragrances are affordable by all. More important still, is our deeply-held conviction that we consumers, clients, suppliers and trading partners alike need to engage in united effort to respond to major, upcoming environmental and social challenges. Let s work together now for future generations. My very best wishes to all for a happy and successful François-Patrick SABATER, CEO TechnicoFlor 2015 opens with ISO CSR Award TechnicoFlor was assessed at year-end 2014 by Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), to test our compliance to the exacting requirements of the ISO CSR reference framework. At this intermediate stage of the work to make Corporate Social Responsibility an integral part of our ethic, we were awarded three out of a possible five merit stars. As a compounder of fragrances we are a benchmark for others in the industry. Our pioneering approach and continuing effort over 10 years has culminated in this ISO award. We will now work even harder to reduce environmental impact and produce perfumes meeting ever more stringent standards of health and safety. Our CSR approach, submitted for evaluation, is original in that it relies on three firm commitments: t - Staff involvement, as more than 50% of the workforce were mobilised - Continuing dialogue with stakeholders (customers, suppliers, industrial and employers federations,..) in a forward-looking approach - Fair Trade initiatives, including extensive support to producers of essential oils

3 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 3/8 Focus on Fine Fragrances Trend : White is the new Black White is the new trend as the pendulum swings back from the recently popular, intensely dark and opulent fragrances so redolent of the East. Their heavy woody notes, appetizing vanilla and sultry, mossy-woody harmonies give way to lighter, more luminous and softer fragrances, in a shift toward sensuality and femininity. Emblematic in its visual impact, is limited edition Sì in its all white packaging. Or Aromatics in White from Armani. Or again Narciso, immaculate in its luminously lacquered packaging. In terms of scent, White Musk threads its way into all formulations making up the heart note of the Thierry Mugler offering. Alternatively, White Musk is sublimated into a multitude of evocatively echoing fragrances and ingredients. Leathery scents are lightened in the all-white Cuir Blanc, a skin perfume heightened by its peppery, White Musk notes in the collection from Atelier de Givenchy. Cuir d Ange is the latest from the Hermessences collection, a diaphanous mist of Hawthorn, Heliotrope and Musky powdery notes. White fragrances from Jo Malone are airy and aquatic, with citrus overtones. Flower-rich white perfumes are musk-laden. Gardenia and White Rose bloom in the sensual fragrance from Narciso Rodriguez. White flowers, Rose, Jasmine and Magnolia are marvellously combined in the latest, soft and lacy offering from Aubade lingerie. Esteban s Rêve Blanc with its Frangipani flowers, velvety Orange blossom, Cyclamen, Musk and Sandalwood, is a creation of quintessential balletic grace Over and above the contrast with Black, white perfumes themselves are contrasting, striking a deft balance between sensuality and ethereal delicacy Si White edition, Armani 2 Aromatics in White, Clinique 3 Narciso, Narciso Rodriguez 4 Over the Musk, Thierry Mugler 5 Cuir Blanc, l Atelier de Givenchy 6 Cuir d Ange, Hermès 7 Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Jo Malone 8 Anecdote, Aubade 9 Rêve Blanc, Esteban

4 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 4/8 Focus on Fine Fragrances, part 2 selection of TechnicoFlor wins Lothair, Penhaligon s sailing the seas Famed British perfume house Penhaligon s launched its new heritage Trade Routes collection of 3 fragrances inspired by the Tea Clippers that skimmed the seas to bring tea and spices to the Port of London. Lothair s creator Bertrand Duchaufour was inspired by these legendary ships that sailed the globe bringing exotic wares to British shores. Lothair for men and women opens with the tang of Juniper and spicy notes of Cardamom and Pink Peppercorn over a floral heart of Geranium, Lavender and Magnolia, trailing in its wake an elegant reminiscence of the varnished decks of these historic ships sailing into warmer waters of Ambergris, Fig, Vanilla and Cedar wood. Fern, Spicy, Amber, Green Rêve Blanc, Esteban gently dreamy Gold Amber Men & Women, Lambre precious and mysterious fragrances Gold Amber Women from Lambre: Amber, Green, Musky, Floral, Gentle Gold Amber Men from Lambre: Oriental, Spicy, Incense, Amber, Woody Lambre proposes a characterful duo of Gold Amber Men twinned with Gold Amber Women. Bertrand Duchaufour gave pride of place to Amber, treasured by craftsmen down the ages in Gdansk, combining its rich warm tones with the brilliance of other equally precious fragrant notes. The version for Women is a meld of Amber over Rum and Whisky harmonies intertwined with heart notes of Rose, Beeswax and Incense over a base of Benzoin, Myrrh and Patchouli from the East. The version for men is sublimated by spicier notes of Cardamom and Saffron over woody heart notes of Agarwood (Oudh) and Vetiver. Orange Blossom, Fresh, Citrus, Amber, Musky Esteban s new fragrance in the Empreinte collection tells a story in perfume drawn from long-held memories. Created by Irène Farmachidi in close collaboration with Laëtitia Louessard, manager of Esteban in-house development unit, Rêve Blanc is a bewitching combination of childhood innocence and womanly sensuality. Woman-as-child is visualized as a ballerina dancing on the Pont des Arts in Paris, and in perfume terms by the fragrant oscillation between seductive womanhood and childhood security. Gently budding femininity opens up harmonies of Orange Blossom and sparkling Mandarin mingled with Vanilla and richly appetizing early memories of Apricot, all the while sensual womanhood flowers to maturity, lightly bedecked with the opulent notes of Frangipani Blossom and Magnolia intertwined with base notes of Amber and Musk.

5 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 5/8 Focus on Personal Care/ Beauty/Home Fragrances Recent Heartstoppers Bulleuses Bath Care Line,Etam how to bubble? Year end 2014 saw Etam successfully launch its Beauty Corner, in a major strategic move by this specialist in women s wear. With more than 600 beauty items, Etam is cleverly combining high fashion and beauty care. The full range of make-up products (lips, nails, foundation, décolleté and eyes) is completed by a bath care line featuring 13 themes to match every woman s mood (softly scented bubble bath Bulleuse Rêveuse for dreamy lazing, Bulleuse Grignoteuse scented with mouth-watering almond vanilla, Bulleuse Lézardeuse evoking memories of hot summers basking lizard-like in the sun), shower creams, scrubs, soaps, milks, oils, candles and Eau de Toilette. More than a clothes shop, Etam is now a supplier of fragrant beauty care products to match any mood and meet every need. Selection of TechnicoFlor Wins Splendieuse* Range, Nuxe resplendent and radiant complexion To render the complexion as Splendide as it is Radieuse, Nuxe has developed Splendieuse, a new beauty care range for coverage of pigmentation due to skin ageing, pregnancy or other blemishes. Containing wild ginger flower (aka porcelain rose), it hydrates and unifies the skin for a radiant and flawless finish. Perfume creator Christine Lucas devised a sophisticated fragrance for glamour brand Nuxe, made up of dazzling and luminous notes evoking immaculacy and the utmost femininity. The heady scent of a profusion of white flowers (Orange Blossom, Jasmine and Gardenia) is softened by a gentle cloud of Musk to create a fragrance that is a breath of the purest White. *does not include mask Floral, Orange Blossom, Neroli, Woody, Powdery, Musky Miracle Cushion Cream, Lancôme miracle cream The Cushion Cream wave carries all before it and is invading France with Lancôme s air cushion compact, a novel applicator of moisturiser and make-up, refreshing and unifying the complexion, hydrating the skin and affording it SPF 23 protection. This take-anywhere compact is a handy addition to a make-up bag, ready for use day or night, thanks to the now celebrated air cushion that makes it so easy to apply just the right amount. Macaroon Candle, ID Parfums deliciously scented violet For Christmas and New Year, ID Parfums launched a Violet Macaroon fragrant candle available on internet, by mail order or from Pierre Ricaud Beauty Salons. To compose this delicious scent, our Perfumer Irène Farmachidi took her inspiration from the macaroon, that most delicate and refined of confectioneries. Powdered Almond, Vanilla and Tonka bean make up a scent of rounded and flavoursome perfection whose fragrance is heightened by a succulent Violet ganache filling. Gourmand, Almond, Violet, Musky

6 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 6/8 Feedback from Perfumers Our perfumers were happy to express their ideas and points of view, sharing their thoughts about favourite fragrances, present and future trends and their sources of inspiration Which current trends in perfume (in terms of fragrance and concept, ) made most impact on you in 2014? Marika Symard : the generalised use of Oudh notes, previously confined to the Middle East. Pierre Flores : Le «Noir» est un concept encore bien présent dans les parfums, que ce soit chez les féminins ou bien chez les masculins. 2. Which of 2014 s new perfumes was your favourite? Christine Lucas : Panthère from Cartier, for its chypre or sultry mossy-woody note, which I find so very nostalgic. The Chypre family of perfumes are still the most chic, to my way of thinking! Pierre Flores : Homme Idéal from Guerlain. After Guerlain Homme, we ve all been waiting for a new Guerlain perfume for Men. This one is run through with an original Almond note. It s a classically appealing fragrance with harmonies of woody cologne heightened by a rich, succulent and truly refined gourmand note. If you were making an Eau de Toilette, a shower gel, or other fragrant product, and you wanted it to smell of a delightful and appetising food, what would it be? Christine Lucas : The smell of a Paris-Brest pastry, my favourite! Morgane Collinot Irène Farmachidi Christine Lucas Bertrand Duchaufour Pierre Flores Marika Symard Where would you take us to find the most exciting fragrances? Pierre Flores : To Spain, to a nature reserve close to Murcia, on the beaches of Calblanque. At the height of summer when warm pine needle scent floats in the air and fig trees exhale their milky green notes. On the way to the beach, the immortelles or everlasting flowers waft their rich, dry fragrance in the heat, pungent with the occasional sea lily and its white calyxes. Bertrand Duchaufour : To Burma, where traditional cooking is an immense source of imaginative creativity. It s the variety and richness of the natural herbs they use. Irène Farmachidi : To Greece. I m in love with the tiny island I visit each summer. Overflowing with memories of warm, flowering frangipani. This was my inspiration when I composed Rêve Blanc, the Eau de Parfum for Esteban. Which ingredients do you love and always yearn to return to? Christine Lucas : I love damascenones. They give an added lighter touch to floral notes, and turn a bunch of flowery scents into a magnificent bouquet. Or they add fruity notes to give depth and character to a composition. Pierre Flores : Cashmeran is a multi-facetted fragrance that s in a class of its own. Morgane Collinot : My most comforting and appetising fragrance in mid-winter would be a quince jelly scented candle. Morgane Collinot : Essence of angelica root. I love the delicious green note which is both spicy and musky all at once. Bertrand Duchaufour : Maple syrup and Baileys are my two potential future inspirations.

7 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 7/8 What perfume would it be your dream to create? Christine Lucas : The fragrance of outer space! Marika Symard : Everything and anything. I don t want to be limited to Eau de Toilette. I want to make fragrances for detergents and bring attractive scents into the heart of the household. I d like to please the whole family, not just one person. Morgane Collinot: A reminiscence of Japan. The special ambience of Kôyô, nature s transformation before leaf fall, when the maple trees redden and ginkgo leaves turn to a majestic gold Bertrand Duchaufour : Beautiful, beautiful, Iris. For ever and for always Does today s legislation hamper creativity? Marika Symard : Yes and no. I ve always worked under a number of constraints, it s part of the game. I can t conceive of a world where there were no laws or regulations. Bertrand Duchaufour : No. Really, legislation does not hamper creativity. There are so many substitutes for banned ingredients! We won t have all the perfumes we used to, and things won t be quite the same. But we ll see new scents emerging that are just as attractive, I m sure of that. Irène Farmachidi : I see working within regulatory limits as a fantastic challenge and way of developing our know-how. Getting round a problem requires creativity. But that doesn t mean we don t regret the loss, in fragrance terms, of some of the ingredients we used to rely on.

8 NEWS / February 2015 n 17 p 8/8 NEWS FROM TECHNICOFLOR Trade Fairs Future events TechnicoFlor will be attending three major upcoming trade fairs, Guangzhou PCHI, Beyond Beauty Arabia in Dubai and Barcelona In-cosmetics. A welcome opportunity for us to tell you what we re doing. And to meet you and hear about your ongoing projects. Trend Notebook 2016 Our new trend Notebook is going to press and will be available from March onwards. It illustrates how our perfume experts have been inspired by contemporary trends. Find out what s stimulating them to create new notes. Perfumer Workshop at In-Cosmetics Bangkok Technicoflor attended the Bangkok Incosmetic trade fair in November. Here we held a perfume initiation workshop run by our Perfumer, Irène Farmachidi. She showcased her skills and presented her ingredients. She gave an introduction to the emblematic scents that have marked perfume history. A wonderful initiation to the world of fragrance. - PCHI, Ghangzou: from 12 through 14 March Beyond Beauty Arabia, Dubai: from 25 through 28 March In-cosmetics, Barcelona: from 14 through 16 April 2015 Fragrances for night-time beauty care are gently downbeat, in contrast to the upbeat trend in daytime perfumes that have all the exuberance of urban street art. Then there the scents born of the yearning for exotic destinations California s Coachella Festival, fragrances that plunge for their inspiration deep into the pulsating life of Brazil and Cuba.