FASHION INTERVIEWS: FOR FEBRUARY THE MAGRIS INVITE US TO CASA BERNARD THE SOCIAL WHIRL BARITONE ALI RIEGER AND CURATOR FRANCESCA BALZAN

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1 THE THEMONTHLY MONTHLYMAGAZINE MAGAZINEFEBRUARY JANUARY FASHION FOR FEBRUARY INTERVIEWS: THE MAGRIS INVITE US TO CASA BERNARD BARITONE ALI RIEGER AND CURATOR FRANCESCA BALZAN THE SOCIAL WHIRL

2 first words... Goodbye dear Alexander! First bids British designer Alexander McQueen goodbye on pages 30, 31 and 32. It appears he was a man of great sensibility as well as great talent. Losing his mother was probably the last straw at a period in his life when there were too many pressures and too many expectations from others. Those with great sensibility do not Humor Chic The Daily society Portrait by alexsandro Palombo want to disappoint and he must have been afraid of disappointing. I admired his clothes as he had an enormous ability to imagine the impossible and then execute it. I don t believe in flooding the market with loads of goods that don t mean much, he said once. And he didn t. Perhaps it was time for him to die. Who knows? We have to learn to live with questions. Victims of My Favourite Room this month are Georges and Josette Magri. They are a great example of a couple who look in the same direction and enjoy life doing things together. They have left their home in Balzan and are now living permanently in Casa Bernard in Rabat which they have restored so beautifully and filled with exquisite antiques. Take a peek. The feature starts on page 50. Enjoy this copy of First which we have prepared for you. executive editor Marie Benoît design Conrad Bondin production manager André Camilleri features advertising executive Claire Gafà sales coordinator Christine Spiteri FIRST is not to be sold separately. It is published every month as a complementary magazine with The Malta Independent on Sunday. FIRST is published by Standard Publications Ltd, Standard House, B Kara Hill, St Julian s STJ1149, Malta. Tel: (356) Fax: (356) , Website: Editorial enquiries: mbenoit@independent.com.mt Advertising enquiries: cgafa@independent.com.mt Printed at EuroPrint. Exclusively distributed by Ta Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel:

3 contents... 7 Fashion Second Nature Casual clothes for cold winter days 16 Fashion Style who is wearing what 19 Auction sales Bejewelled Sale of jewels at Christie s South Kensington 20 Interview Our Golden Past Francesca Balzan speaks to Marie Benoît about her book Jewellery in Malta: Treasures from the Island of the Knights (1530 to 1798) 28 Music Singing the winter blues away Spiteri Lucas Entertainment with another music production: In Harmony Live the Music 30 In memory Death of a Genius Tribute to British designer Alexander McQueen 34 Interview Baritone Ali Rieger speaks to Marie Benoît about his role in Aleko in next month s opera of the same name 38 Books A guide to the Mysteries of Lake Maggiore Richard Zahra speaks to its author 43 Opinion Climate, Science or Climate Evangelism? Bjorn Lomborg argues that the public does not take kindly to being misled 46 Travel Malta Diary by Anke Jablinski who has been to Malta 50 times First products Shake off the winter blues 50 Lifestyle My Favourite Room Georges and Josette Magri in their home Casa Bernard. Interview and photos Joe Demanuele 58 Culture Vulture An evening of sheer delight Fado at the Corinthia Palace Hotel 60 Social whirl Russians celebrate Orthodox Christmas at the Russian Chapel in San Anton gardens 62 History Full of Treasures A glimpse at the latest issue of Treasures of Malta 64 Our competition February 2010 Our Cover: Coat by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, umbrella by Moschino all from Porto J a n u a r y i s s u e

4 Tis Fashion SECOND NATURE the season for country walks, relaxed lunches and teas in elegant hotel lobbies. Time for comfortable casual outfits to brighten cold winter days. Add a dramatic touch to slick winter coats with an unusual scarf. Cut a dashing swathe in a winter white coat and spotted umbrella. Avoid looking overly prim introduce red in your wardrobe; its allure is a sartorial tonic for winter days. Accessories soften winter clothes. Costume jewellery gives extra detail for a gorgeously girlie look. And is there life without a good handbag? February brings a host of fashion delights with it. BANISH WINTER BLUES Dress and matching cardigan by Max Mara. Silk scarf by Passigatti, ring and bangles by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Cosettini all from Porto. 7

5 LIGHT UP WITH OLD GOLD Jersey twin set, leather belt and suede skirt all by Max Mara. Necklace and bracelet both by Bulatti, ring by Dyberg/ Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 8

6 PRACTICAL BUT POLISHED Zip-up jacket and jeans by Max Mara. Scarf worn as band by Passigatti, ring and bangles by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 10

7 THE DAY OF THE PYTHON Jacket and skirt by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, leather bag by Francesco Biasia all from Porto. 12

8 RAVISHING RED Jacket by Gil Bret, jeans by Betty Barclay both from Mei. Umbrella by Moschino, leather gloves by Ochre, bangles and bracelet by Dyberg/ Kern, leather bag by Ripani all from Porto. 13

9 Valentina Lupo Credits: Photography & Styling: Valentina Lupo Model: Daniela Darmanin Hair: Clinton Chetcuti Make-Up: Maureen Spiteri at Sina's Beauty Salon Tel: Location: Speranza Valley Stockists: Max Mara: Tel: Mei boutique: Tel: Porto: Tel: WARM WINTER HUES Coat by Max Mara. Dress by Betty Barclay from Mei. Earrings and ring by Dyberg/Kern, hand-made scarf by Mary Frances all from Porto. 14

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11 Fashion Style Sofia in a Carolina Herrera creation at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles also in January. AMYAdams in a lava red silk chevron georgette dress by Carolina Herrera at the New York premiere of Leap Year on 6 January. Paco Rabanne was appointed Officer of the Legion of Honour in January. The Legion d Honneur is the highest decoration in France and rewards people for civil and military services to the Nation. He is well-known as an avantgarde creator with his metal dresses his material of choice. At the taping of David Letterman s Late Show on January 5th Amy Adams was seen wearing a Carolina Herrera grey mélange belted wool coat over a mulberry silk jersey dress. The Spring 2010 Collections of Betty Barclay, Elegance and Condici will be available at MEI as from tomorrow, 22 February. These brands start the Spring/Summer 2010 season full of vitality, and present relaxed yet smartly feminine collections. The colours underline the positive message. This season everything radiates optimism and nonchalance. MEI, Westin Dragonara Resort, St Julian s. Tel: Sofia Vergara in a dutch blue silk faille strapless gown with a ruby duchess bow by Carolina Herrera at the 67th Annual Golden Globe Awards in Los Angeles last month. 16 F e b r a u r y i s s u e

12 Auction sales A Tiffany Diamond Single Stone Ring Estimate: 6,000-8,000 A Pair of Art Deco Diamond Earclips Estimate: Diamond Scroll Earpendants Estimate: 4,000-5,000 An Aquamarine and Diamond Ring Estimate: 1,500-2,000 Bejewelled A Pair of Aquamarine and Diamond Earpendants Estimate: 1,200-1,500 Christie s Images Ltd Text: Geoff Young Associate Director. Specialist head of sale. Sapphire and Diamond Love Bangle, by Chopard Estimate: 2,000-3,000 Citrine, Sapphire and Diamond Bombe Ring Estimate: The sale of Jewels at Christie s South Kensington on 17 March 2010 welcomes Spring, offering a range of traditional and antique pieces complemented by a selection of modern jewellery. With estimates ranging from 500 to 6,000 this sale is sure to cater for all tastes. These stunning pieces should be worn and enjoyed. Why not go along to the viewing at the South Kensington salerooms on March 2010 to try them for size if you happen to be in London? A Pair of Jadeite Jade and Diamond Cufflinks Estimate: A Ram s Head Torc Bangle Estimate: An Elizabeth Gage Astrological Ring Estimate: Two pieces of gold jewellery: one harking back to ancient Minoan civilisation and the other adopting the timeless signs of the zodiac. From classical to timeless classic, they are united by their use of animal imagery and all the deeply entrenched symbolism that entails. The torc bangle (left) is a remarkable example of classically-inspired jewellery. The Minoans are known to have placed great value upon physical beauty and their clothes and jewellery would have always served to enhance that. The ram itself had enormous significance for the ancients, and for the Minoans it stood as a symbol of fertility. It is also the astrological sign of Aries in a system which remains in use today. Whether a firm believer in the influence of astrological phenomenon or not, this astrological ring by Elizabeth Gage (above right) is a wonderful piece of jewellery; an ideal gift for a fish-lover or Piscean. 19

13 Interview Our golden p THE OPULENT BOOK JEWELLERY IN MALTA:TREASURES FROM THE ISLAND OF THE KNIGHTS (1530 TO 1798) IS THE BRAINCHILD OF FRANCESCA BALZAN, CURATOR AT PALAZZO FALSON HISTORIC HOUSE MUSEUM, MDINA. IN THIS INTERVIEW WITH MARIE BENOÎT SHE MERELY SCRATCHES THE SURFACE OF HER EXTENSIVE KNOWLEDGE Detail of the central link of the Passalacqua Chain, Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta Jewellery of Malta is a beautiful book produced by Midsea Books for Fondazzjoni Patrimonju Malti. One would need a whole magazine to do it justice. So we have to limit ourselves to essentials. Francesca and Palazzo Falson were made for each other. She is the antithesis of a blue stocking and could easily be a model. The book is based on her MA thesis and she knows the subject intimately. So, what in her view are the most important functions of jewellery, I ask her, and have they changed through the ages? She carries her learning lightly and explains to me that jewellery is primarily intended as a personal decoration the only piece of art you are ever likely to carry around with you, touching your skin and somehow enhancing your appearance. She goes on to say that it can and usually does have sentimental value. It is a statement of the wealth of its owner. It can 20

14 past Link of Passalacqua Chain, Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta be worn as an amulet. It can be an overt statement of one s religion and one s affiliations as well as an indicator of office or rank. It is ultimately a self-conscious declaration of the wearer. All these uses are as true today as they were in the past. The only significant difference is that men tended to collect and possibly wear more jewellery in the past. Nowadays, give or take the occasional football star, jewellery is predominently worn by women. This book focuses on the years 1530 to Before the Knights came to Malta and brought so much sophistication with them was jewellery of any significance Iwanted to know. Francesca explains that what we know of the jewellery in Malta just before the Knights arrival is through descriptions in documents, as very little actual pieces survive. She explains. Typically silver, coral and pearls made up jewellery of that time. Precious stones start to get mentioned after the Knights arrive in Malta. However, the significance attaching, for example, to the marriage ring and the rosary was definitively present in pre- Knights period Malta and would continue right up to this day. Cross of Passalacqua Chain. Carmelite Church Coll., Valletta The Knights of Malta came from Rhodes as we all know. Did they bring any jewellery with them? Francesca explains that the Knights did bring precious reliquaries and objets d art from Rhodes and from their travels in the post-rhodiot period, sourced from all over Europe. Luckily, images and a few pieces do survive to help us understand what these new objects arriving in Malta in 1530 must have looked like and how they may have influenced the Maltese silversmith. There are still excellent Maltese craftsmen who repair and also make jewellery. But is there jewellery which is wholly Maltese, designed as well as made by local jewellers? Francesca replies that this is a difficult question. Much of the jewellery which survives is unfortunately not marked or only partially marked, not allowing for a precise identification of its maker and date. Archival references do not help either as jewellery is described in a one-liner or in terms of the gems or metal it was made of but generally not where it was made. One entry very tantalisingly refers to gioielle alla Maltesa but stops short of a description which leaves us one step away from identifying what it could be. Having said that we do know that certain types of jewellery were circulating in Malta in large quantities, indicating that they were produced and sold here. 21

15 Our Lady of Sorrows Medallion (obverse and reverse). Private Collection, Mdina Coral Rosary. Private Coll., Malta Snake head bracelet with heart pendant, Private Collection, Malta Could Francesca comment on the strong symbolic associations tied to rites of passage such as baptism, marriage and so on which jewellery also carried and possibly still carries? She has the facts at her fingertips. To give one example, betrothal customs in Malta during the sixteenth century feature jewellery as an important part of this ritual. Once the suitor s offer for marriage was accepted and a dowry agreed upon, he would send the future bride a gift of a fish bearing a ring or jewel in its mouth. He would later present an engagement ring to her on the actual day of the betrothal. The ring would have an engraved motif of two joined hands denoting fidelity. That s two pieces of jewellery for the lucky bride! I was fascinated by something else I had read in the book: a fossil obtained from Maltese rock which was held to have powerful preventive and curative properties, the snake s eye. Could she comment on this? Yes, the so-called snake s eye was held to have powerful curative and preventive properties, which was efficacious against poison and poisonous animal bites. These fossils were mounted on rings in such a way that the fossil would be in constant contact with the skin, to protect and heal the wearer. Apparently even Grand Master Verdalle took to wearing one such ring. Â\ {ÉÑx à ã ÄÄ Üt áx ÑxÉÑÄxËá tãtüxçxáá tá àé à{x { áàéü v ätäâx? as opposed to mere intrinsic value, of jewellery and that the current trend of trading in old gold for cash will not result in the destruction of pieces of historic importance And what about coral? Coral is almost universally held to turn away the evil eye and to protect the wearer against all sorts of harmful influences. This belief is rooted in centuries old tradition and therefore coral, which incidentally is also found in Maltese waters, features frequently in jewellery. Did the women, all those centuries ago, wear different jewellery to what we wear today? Francesca points out to me that they wore what we normally wear brooches, rings, bracelets, necklaces and more. It is interesting to see changing fashions in jewellery through the centuries. Generally the fashions in jewellery adapted to changes in dress and hairstyles no point wearing earrings if the ears were entirely concealed! Moreover sumptuary laws regulated what people could and could not wear. Portraits and inventories provide essential data, for example, what in the hand can seem like a brooch may well turn out to be a dress ornament worn at the top of a stomacher. So secular women then went in for even more personal decoration than we do today. Dagger of the Grand Masters of the Order of St John, Louvre Museum Coll., Paris 22

16 Silver filigree reliquary cross, Zabbar Sanctuary Museum Coll., Malta And did secular men wear any jewellery at all? Yes, men most certainly did wear jewellery and accessories. Rings and earrings, buckles and buttons in precious metal feature in the records. I know that the muchacclaimed Gran Spinat is still made in Malta but what about the Tal-Antaccoli necklace? Both styles are mentioned in the book. Francesca comments that the Gran Spinat is Section from a Tal-Antaccoli type necklace Â\ tå Çx à{xü t véääxvàéü Éy }xãxääxüç? nor particularly keen on wearing jewellery and given the fragility of these old pieces I would rather tip-toe around them than be made to wear them! perhaps the best known of Maltese jewellery items and is indeed still very laboriously produced in Malta. What few people are not aware of is its origins. This type of chain seems to have been brought to Malta from Spain or perhaps even Portugal, but originated most likely in the East. The origins of the Tal-Antaccoli necklace are less clear, however this type certainly gets mentioned in seventeenth century documents giving us an indication that it was known and already referred to as such in bygone days. Various size links in Gran Spinat type necklaces Sword of the Grand Masters of the Order of St John, Louvre Museum Coll., Paris 25

17 Gold pectoral cross, Private Coll., Mdina. Late eighteenth century typical Maltese style gold and seed pearl earrings. Private Collection. Malta Rings of crowned hearts from various Collections Silver dress of the Icon of the Virgin of St Luke Icould listen to her speak about her pet subject for hours. But one more question: If she had to choose three pieces of jewellery about which she writes in this sumptuous book, for her personal use, which ones would she choose and why? (I had already secretly made my choice.) She smiles with a glint in her eyes: The short answer is none of them. I am neither a collector of jewellery, nor particularly keen on wearing jewellery and given the fragility of these old pieces I would rather tip-toe around them than be made to wear them! What I do however, love about jewellery is the way it reflects the social context of the person who wears it and that s why I have spent so much time mulling over jewellery. Here s someone who doesn t want everything for herself. She understands perfectly the importance of looking after the old and keeping it in good condition for future generations. But I hazard one last question. How relevant is her study of jewellery in today s world? She is wise for her years and replies: This was one area of Maltese art and history that had not been looked at before so I feel my book is a contribution to knowledge in this area. But, more importantly, I hope it will raise people s awareness as to the historic value, as opposed to mere intrinsic value, of jewellery and that the current trend of trading in old gold for cash will not result in the destruction of pieces of historic importance. 26

18 In Music Singing the winter blues away SPITERI LUCAS ENTERTAINMENT IS BACK IN TOWN WITH YET ANOTHER SPECTACULAR MUSIC PRODUCTION IN HARMONY LIVE THE MUSIC. THIS WILL TAKE PLACE ON 20 AND 21 MARCH AT THE SIR TEMI ZAMMIT THEATRE, UNIVERSITY OF MALTA, TAL QROQQ Photos: Bernard Polidano Harmony is a live, animated and entertaining show featuring a varied repertoire of popular and evergreen tunes chosen from over a sixty year span of Music history. Hit numbers such as Ain t No Mountain High, Lady Marmalade, I Will Follow Him, Tell Him, That s What Friends are for, All for Love, Bohemian Rhapsody, Somebody to Love, What a Wonderful World, The Lion Sleeps Tonight, The Circle of Life and Michael Jackson s Heal the World, just to mention a few songs, which feature prominently in this production. For this musical show, Spiteri Lucas Entertainment has assembled a highly talented cast with some of Malta s top and most versatile performers such as upcoming star Raquela, Ludwig Galea, crooner Ivan Spiteri Lucas, Pamela, Debbie Scerri, Glen Vella, Nadine Axisa and Neville who is also responsible for a children s choir that was chosen following a series of auditions held throughout the last few months. All artists will be accompanied by a live seven piece band under the direction of musical director Mark Spiteri Lucas who is also responsible for all musical arrangements to be performed throughout the show, while Keith and Adonelle together with their dance troupe are responsible for the choreography. With a repertoire of highly popular tunes, a talented cast, spectacular lighting and sound, colourful costumes and a few surprises in store, In Harmony promises to be one of the main attractions this theatrical season. This is bound to be another feather in their cap after Golden Oldies (2006), The Legends of Music (2007), Welcome to Hollywood (2008), A Tribute to the Stars (2008) and Dipinto di Blu (2009), The show will be staged on Saturday 20 March at 20.00hrs and Sunday 21 March at 18.30hrs at the Sir Temi Zammit Theatre, University of Malta, Tal- Qroqq. Booking is open and tickets can be obtained from St. James Cavalier Booking Office at Valletta (Tel ) or via (boxoffice@sjcav.org). You can also book online on Ticket hotline is or More information can be obtained by visiting Spiteri Lucas Entertainment is supported by: Nexos Lighting Technology, Bestprint Co. Ltd, Bernard Polidano Photography, Sas-Sitta TV Programme, Cut Coiffeur Hairstylists, Beautique Parlour, Birkirkara, Natasha Polidano (Make-up artist), Logografix Signs and Besteam Audio and Melita Sports. 28

19 In memory Death of a g BRITISH DESIGNER ALEXANDER MCQUEEN WAS FOUND DEAD IN HIS HOME LAST WEEK, AFTER POSTING ANGUISHED ONLINE REMARKS ABOUT THE DEATH OF HIS MOTHER. HE WAS ONLY 40 YEARS OLD AND AT THE PINNACLE OF HIS SUCCESS. The circumstances pointed to a possible suicide, but there was no confirmation from police or McQueen s publicists. Authorities said the death was not suspicious, apparently ruling out foul play. They did not indicate how McQueen was discovered. The Sun tabloid cited an anonymous source on its website who said workers found McQueen hanging in his apartment. The newspaper gave no further details. His family issued a statement asking for privacy. 30

20 genius McQueen is credited with helping revive the oncemoribund British fashion industry. His edgy pieces were coveted and treasured by stylish women across the globe and seen on numerous red carpets. Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour called McQueen one of the greatest talents of his generation. He brought a uniquely British sense of daring and aesthetic fearlessness to the global stage of fashion. In such a short career, Alexander McQueen s influence was astonishing from street style, to music culture and the world s museums, she said in a statement. His passing marks an insurmountable loss. McQueen did not design for the celebrities, but they flocked to him for the sheer audacity of his creations, which were instantly recognizable for being dramatic, exquisitely tailored and oh-so sexy. A stunning dress for Sandra Bullock? A special order for Madonna? Something special for Kate Moss or Naomi Campbell? All these feats seemed easy for the quiet, slim, bearded Englishman who shunned publicity and laughed off the limelight. Lady Gaga recently made waves when she wore McQueen s spring 2010 lobster-claw shoes in her Bad Romance music video. McQueen s mother died on 2 February. Some fashion experts speculated that his mood may have also been clouded by pressure to outdo himself again next month at his catwalk show in Paris. News of his death broke at the start of New York Fashion Week and sent shock waves through the Bryant Park tents. A presentation of McQueen s secondary label, McQ, had been scheduled for later Thursday, but it was quickly cancelled. After word of his death spread, one mourner left pink flowers at the doors of the designer s London headquarters. Mourners also gathered outside his New York store. He was a great, great talent who had lost someone important in his life, said Xavier Keane, who placed the flowers. I know how he feels because I lost my mother last year. McQueen sounded anguished and frustrated in recent postings on his Twitter page. The remarks also sounded slightly confused. i m letting my followers know the my mother passed away yesterday if it she had not me nor would you RIP mumx, he wrote. Shortly afterward, he added: But life must go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On Sunday, he used an obscenity to describe his awful week and said he had to some how pull myself together and finish. Four days later, he was dead. If you are a genius, the pressure to be a genius is always immense, said Imogen Edwards-Jones, author of the Fashion Babylon, a novel on the untidy underside of the industry. McQueen helped spark a renaissance in London fashion, helping to revive it after the longdormant period that followed the punk explosion in the 1970s. He was also responsible for one of history s most famous wardrobe malfunctions. He designed Janet Jackson s Super Bowl outfit, which fell open while she was singing, revealing one of her breasts. In the usually glad-handing fashion world, McQueen was known as a private man who shunned the limelight. He turned down most interview requests and did not cultivate a cult of personality or try to develop an air of mystery about his work. McQueen, a trim, handsome man with startling gray-blue eyes, had an easy smile, but did not linger in the camera s glare. 31

21 In a world where every man and his dog is a designer, Alexander McQueen was the real deal, said celebrated hat maker Philip Treacy. His talent was supersonic. McQueen made his name first in London, then wooed audiences in Paris, New York and Milan to take his place in the upper echelons of the designing world. He was named British Fashion Designer of the Year four times, and was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003, when she made him a Commander of the British Empire for his fashion leadership. McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs, said Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue. McQueen was known for pushing the envelope. At his spring-summer 2010 collection, he featured sculptural cocktail dresses in psychedelic snakeskin prints, with the hooflike platform booties (above) that were worn by Lady Gaga. The show opened with huge screens projecting close-up images of a woman writhing among a den of snakes. The death left the future of the McQueen label in doubt. After a founder s death, other major labels have turned to lesser-known in-house talent, as happened with Valentino; or brought in outside designers, as happened at Emanuel Ungaro; or even recruited family, as with Versace. McQueen was the youngest of six children born to a taxi driver and a teacher. He received his early fashion training at the Central St. Martin s College of Art and Design, long recognized for its fashion-forward approach and encouragement of Britain s talented young designers. He learned the finer points of traditional men s tailoring at two famous, conservative Savile Row houses: Anderson and Sheppard, and Gieves and Hawkes. After his Savile Row stint, McQueen started to develop his trademark, more theatrical designs, working with several other brands before first starting his own label in He quickly earned a reputation for innovation. The company he founded was purchased by the Gucci Group, and he retained creative control of his own brand. There were plans for stores in Paris, Milan and London, as well as Manhattan and San Francisco. His runway shows were always a highlight during the Paris ready-to-wear fashion week. One of his previous collections included a show built around the concept of recycling, with models donning extravagant headwear made out of trash. His last collection, shown in October in Paris, featured elaborate and highly structured cocktail dresses. Critics raved. I m overcome with grief today with his shocking passing and my heart aches at the pain he must have been in, designer and friend Jeremy Scott said by e- mail, explaining that he was too emotional to speak after hearing of McQueen s untimely death. 32

22 Interview Time for opera BARITONE ALI RIEGER IS GOING TO SING HIS WAY THROUGH RACHMANINOFF S ALEKO NEXT MONTH AND MARIE BENOÎT FINDS THAT HE IS STEPPING INTO A WORLD OF GYPSIES, BEAUTIFUL MUSIC AND TRAGEDY Aleko, Sergei Rachmaninoff s one-act answer to Carmen, is a product of his student days at the Moscow Conservatory. It was an étude of sorts, designed to test his burgeoning compositional acumen. The Russian libretto was written by Vladimir Nemirovich- Danchenko and is an adaptation of the poem The Gypsies by Alexander Pushkin. Rachmaninoff s opera was written in 1892 as a graduation work at the Moscow Conservatory, and it won the highest prizes from the Conservatory judges that year. Its Moscow première took place on 9 May Tchaikovsky, who was to become his mentor, had attended this performance. Aleko s rhapsodic Orientalism and lavish melodies emerge with effortless appeal. Like Rachmaninoff s two other operas The Miserly Knight and Francesca da Rimini Aleko shows Rachmaninoff finding his own individual style, independent of the traditional opera or Wagner s music-dramas. Michael Bukinik, a contemporary of Rachmaninoff at the Conservatory, recalled the rehearsals for the opera: I was a pupil of the orchestra class, and during the rehearsals, we not only admired, but were made happy and proud by his daring harmonies, and were ready to see in him a reformer. The BOV Opera Festival is this year including Aleko in a double-bill with Rossini s Cambiale di Matrimonio. The title role is to be sung by a young baritone Ali Rieger who is no stranger to Malta and has sung here a number of times: at the Sala Isouard, last summer at a local council festival in Mellieha bay, at the Waterfront chapel and other venues. Ali started acting, as a teenager in Austrian TV productions and at the 34

23 age of 15 years he had his first small part in an Austrian film. I soon found out that there was still much I had to learn; much hard work lay ahead in order for me to improve my skills. Talent is simply not enough. But acting has served me well for a singer of operas must be able to act as well. So Ali went to acting school. His first visit to Malta took place some years ago and a strong connection quickly grew as I learned to appreciate this special place and its people. Juliette Bisazza, the well known Maltese soprano and voice teacher and her family supported me in my creative growth. It was beneficial to meet the Bisazza family, which has such a long musical tradition. The generosity I received in Malta empowered me to promote Maltese singers, through a recently set up company Artisti Lirici Internazionali (ALI) in Milan where I have been living for several years. ALI is very much Ali Rieger s baby and is growing stronger with every concert organised. He explains: Well, the original idea was to launch new talent and singers through concerts and events in Milan where I live. After just a few recitals we were already making quite an impression on the musical scene there. Through the organisation of these concerts we are also giving an opportunity to Maltese artists to perform in Italy in front of different audiences. From his comments it is clear that it is always important for him that he researches the background to the role he is playing in detail. When you re doing a role, whether it is historical or not, you need to know what s going on. If you do Rigoletto you need to know about the time when it s set and the society in which it was written. How else can you understand what it s all about? The audience too, needs to know what it s all about and who s who. That s especially important when it s an unknown or an unusual piece. Ali with Soprano Lydia Caruana during a reception in Malta The role of Aleko at the Manoel Theatre will be his debut for He comments: It wasn t easy to work on this part. Even though I have studied for many years in Latvia and Estonia, where Russian is the second official language, I still had to review what I had studied many years ago. About a year ago, I was fortunate to find a Russian coach in Milan who could help me prepare the role. I wanted to dive into the language, the culture, the history behind the text and the music. As time passed, I became hypnotized by the beauty that is contained in Rachmaninoff s music. Rachmaninoff was only twenty-yearsold when he composed this opera and yet he already had an incredible insight into the human soul. Aleko is the story of a young man who is weary of his boring upperclass life and runs off with a band of gypsies. He moves in with Zemfira, a young gypsy, and she bears him a child. The Old Gypsy, Zemfira s father, warns Aleko not to become too possessive of Zemfira. However, Aleko kills both Zemfira and the man he thinks is her lover. The gypsies cast him out and disown him. Could he comment on Aleko s character? This opera communicates something more than love between two souls which were once deeply connected. If you were to look at it from a story book point of view, Aleko lives in a civilized world but falls in love with a young gipsy girl. He is mesmerized by her beauty and what she represents: youth and freedom. Driven by his fear of being left alone, he sacrifices everything to Taking the final bow with Soprano Adriana Yordanova in Tuscany love her and to live in her world, only to discover that she has betrayed him. Enraged, he kills both her and her lover. What is most fascinating is Aleko s journey which leads him to this act of violence. Aleko, who in reality doesn t possess a very strong personality, latches on to the young soul of Zemfira, a woman who he sees as being free from angst and social pressures. He convinces himself that she is the key to his happiness and purpose in life. When he discovers Zemfira with another man, he loses his identity. He finds himself alone again. This idea of the selffulfilling prophecy that you become what you think you are really made an impression on me. What are his plans after Aleko? This year is a great year for me, full of new experiences and possibilities. I am looking forward to working with Brian Schembri who will be conducting the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra and the German opera stage director Angelika Fenzel and her colleague, set and costume designer, Hanne Eckart in the Manoel s production of Aleko. The production manager is the wellknown musician Sara Spiteri. In addition to preparing the roles of Belcore in Donizetti s L Elizir d amore and Puccini s Marcello for La Bohème, two roles which he is scheduled to play in Catania, Ali Rieger is also working on parts for both German and Austrian television productions. (The 11th Edition of the BOV Opera Festival is a week-long operatic bonanza being held at the Manoel Theatre and starts on 17 March.) 35

24 Working women MARIE BENOÎT H ANOTHER VOICE The typical family shown in the advertisements father going out to work, mother staying home (getting her sheets whiter than white) and two children, is slowly becoming not so typical. The statistics of marital breakdown in Malta are nothing to be proud of. I have just been watching a programme on TV 5 about divorce in France. The statistics there are worse. One in three couples separate and in Paris it is worse still for there it is one in two couples. It is usually the men who finish up homeless and sometimes, the economy being what it is, jobless as well. And in these statistics no one is counting those marriages which are marriages only in name: where the couple live under the same roof but lead seperate lives; where the woman stays on as, at a certain age, she cannot hope to go out and work and maintain yourself; where the man s conscience will not allow him to leave his wife at any stage, although the marriage never took off, and so on. But it is useless to pretend that the problem of marital breakdown has a solution it is a social phenomenon not a problem. There are things that could help but they appear modest against the awesome tide of social revolution around us. We are still in a transitional phase and the indisputable fact is that women have arrived in the workplace and not just to make the coffee and empty the paper baskets. Some are working because they have studied hard and cannot visualize staying at home all day without the mental stimulation which work they enjoy gives them. Others and there are more and more of these work because they have to do so in order to balance the family budget. Let us not forget that the average salary here is dismally low, one of the lowest in Europe. So, there are women who may not particularly like what they are doing but are happy to contribute to the family kitty and make the life of those they love more comfortable. As a result of more women in the workplace, roles are not as clear cut as they used to be. But it is up to each couple to sort this out as although legislation helps in certain areas, the circumstances of each couple are different. It is only the co-operation between them which is going to be the basis of a harmonious life together. There are more and more enlightened couples who see the benefits of the contribution of the woman and who are making a definite decision to run their lives on an equal, sharing basis. And it works well for them. Âg{xÜx tüx ÅxÇ ã{é ÉÇÄç yxxä áxvâüx Ç à{x Ü ÜxÄtà ÉÇá{ Ñ y à{x ãéåtç áàtçá {ÉÅxA It is infinitely more comfortable of course especially for him. But the old prejudices still linger. There is still a false impression that if a man marries a woman with any ambition beyond rocking the cradle and making minestra, he cannot be truly male. If he allows his wife to pursue her career, indeed supports her in every way possible and is justifiably proud of her achievements then, to use the crude word which all kinds of men use, he must be a pastizz. I am not going to apologise for the use of this word and its implications as it is so widely adopted. There are others who find it necessary to challenge the manliness of those whose wives are smart and doing well careerwise. He must be weak, a wimp with not worthwhile career of his own, they bark, and of course, he must inevitably be henpecked. She is no doubt a belligerent hussy and deserves a good hiding now and then to show her who is boss, they argue. The marriage will not last, they predict, without as much as the aid of a crude crystal ball let alone a shred of evidence. She probably orders him around, they assume, at the same time blaming women who work for the disintegration of family life. If because of the nature of her work she happens to have a higher profile than his, he is truly to be pitied. Who wants to be upstaged by a mere woman, especially if she is your wife? He can t be a regular guy they conclude. A T-shirt of some ten years ago sums up their attitude: Wife wanted/look like an angel/cook like a gourmet/and bonk like a rabbit. As a matter of fact if you will look around you will find that there is a certain type of man who dumps his wife of many years because in her middle age, she is starting to become too assertive for his liking. He then grabs himself either a much younger woman who is looking for a protector or someone from one of those countries for whom the choice is between marriage any marriage or a life-time of misery and poverty. To them marriage is little more than a business. 36

25 n need support HAS HER SAY Men who feel inadequate and lack confidence are likely to set much store by being the bread-winners and might feel that their masculinity is threatened by a woman earning money of her own, even if her work is not particularly high-powered. It can be even harder if the woman s work is more rewarding, better paid or of high status. There are men who only feel secure in their relationship if the woman stays home. It is infinitely more comfortable of course especially for him. There are women who prefer not to work and enjoy being at home, taking life more calmly and looking after their loved ones full-time. In no way am I going to cast aspersions on them. It is a choice they have made and I respect it. The truth is that many of them have not had to slog through years of study so they do not have the feeling that all those years have been wasted if they are not working. As more and more women qualify professionally, more and more of them are going to want to work. You will find that the majority of women get most satisfaction out of their family rather than out of their job. It certainly has been that way for me, although I have always had jobs that I enjoyed tremendously and which gave me a window to the wider world which staying at home would not have done. But unless you have to make a choice between family and profession, a combination of both is the ideal. The problem is always one of balance. Women with a job and a family have to do a great deal of juggling if they want both. And they need oodles of energy. Not everyone can handle life in the fast lane. There s even talk of the masculinity crisis. The public is given the image of females starving in vain for the attention of men, and of men, who egged on and deprived by frigid seductresses, end by falling into each other s arms. This, some are saying, is why there is so much homosexuality. Women are demaculating men. By changing their traditional roles and no longer pretending to be damsels in distress women are ensuring that men feel less virile, less masculine. Since women can provide everything for themselves, one acquaintance told me, men are feeling useless as women don t seem to need them anymore. When the moon is in the right phase heap all blame on the women. What s new? ÂTá ÅÉÜx tçw ÅÉÜx ãéåxç ÖâtÄ yç ÑÜÉyxáá ÉÇtÄÄç? more and more of them are going to want to work. But having observed the social scene for a good many years I find that the truth is usually very different. You will find that in most cases when women have a worthwhile career and an intellect the chances are that the marriage is a happy one for it is based on equality and mutual respect and fulfillment, as long as the couple support each other. Women who have a career and are financially independent tend to love unconditionally. A relationship to them is not a meal ticket for life or an escape from a job which provides little more than torment. And believe it or not women with a brain and a profession can come up with a decent meal and may even bake the occasional cake. They may not be too obsessed about the dust on the wardrobes and the shine on the brass for to them their homes tend to be homes not showcases. There are many more interesting avenues to explore than the tops of wardrobes. They are not harridans but often sympathise more with their mates as they understand the hassles of a working day and may even offer some worthwhile advice. It is hard to believe that men would be worse off by becoming more gentle. Nor would mildness of manner and social relations make them any the less manly. True maleness is never without its vein of femininity. I ll let Jeffrey Richards, Professor of Cultural History at Lancaster University have the last word: It is time to dethrone the idea that Real Men are aggressive, loud, competitive, unemotional, unexpressive and irresponsible and begin to shape a concept of Real Men as sensitive, concerned, tender and self-aware both in their dealings with each other and with women and children. In the recent past such figures have been dismissed as wimps and wets. But in the long run if civilization is to survive and violence be contained it is the wimps and wets that must inherit the earth. And it is often the wimps and wets who are sensitive enough to understand the needs of their working wives. 37

26 Books The Island of San Giulio on Lake d Orta, where the mysterious bone that distracted A Guide to the pilgrims was found Mysteries of Lake Maggiore ITALO-FRENCH AUTHOR, WILLIAM FACCHINETTI KERDUDO, SPEAKS TO RICHARD ZAHRA ABOUT HIS UNUSUAL GUIDEBOOK The author William Facchinetti Kerdudo Guida ai Misteri del Lago Maggiore (Macchione Editore) is an innovative guidebook that steers intrepid and curious visitors away from the firmly-trampled tourist trail to discover overlooked mysterious places and historical figures that flavour one of the most celebrated Italian northern lakes. In his book, talented author William Facchinetti Kerdudo capitalizes on the innate curiosity of human nature and the lure of the intriguing tales that are associated with numerous sites around Lake Maggiore. I wanted to write a guidebook that explores local curiosities, he says, unlike the traditional ones that focus only on architectural and historical descriptions. Half Italian and half Breton, William Facchinetti Kerdudo is a man of many talents. He has pursued his passions for literature, music and photography, and after finishing his studies, he carved out a promising career in all three fields. His work was amongst the winning titles at the National Award of Creative Writing of Ivrea, and after graduating in lyrical music he authored, composed and sometimes performed songs that were played in clubs across Europe. As a photographer he set up various personal exhibitions and was amongst the winners at the international awards Quest of Fashion held at Pitti Uomo, Florence, in

27 The Borromeo islands on Lake Maggiore. In his book, the author mentions many mysteries and curiosities related to these popular destinations Kerdudo explains that writing the guidebook involved a lot of on-site research. He started off in local libraries by leafing through old texts, digging out local legends and mysterious historical characters. He spent six months visiting each location to verify and photograph the sites. Whenever possible, he also interviewed old people who were well-acquainted with local lore. I wanted to be sure that every legend, story or character I mentioned in the book had a sound base and that the facts I included were precise, he comments. I used a simple rule. For an entry to qualify for my book, I had to confirm it through three different sources. The entries in the book are easy to find by travellers touring the area as the author has conveniently grouped them under the headings of the three provinces of Novara, Varese and Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, all of which border Lake Maggiore. The curiosities are well illustrated with the author s own professional photographs. In addition, each site is marked with practical information such as directions of how to get there, whether it is open to the public and if payment is charged for visiting. I am intrigued by stories of the supernatural, admits Kerdudo, but I did not want to limit my book to ghost stories, as that would have been annoying. Historical curiosities The she-devil at the Sacro Monte of Orta, one of the curiosities mentioned in the book and real characters can sometimes be more interesting than invented ones. For instance not so long ago, the well-preserved mummy of a woman dating from 1793 was found near a church. That is certainly not typical of this area! Lake Maggiore and its environs are steeped in Christian myth. Some of these are well known and have been much written about. An example is the much celebrated story of San Giulio who built his hundredth church on an island over the scenic Lake Orta after banishing the evil creatures that lurked on it. A less well-known story related to this place is that of the dragon s rib, adds Kerdudo. This large bone was discovered during the 17 th century when it was washed on the lake shore. People associated it with the creatures that had been defeated by San Giulio and for many years it was exhibited in San Giulio s church. Later, the nuns had to remove the rib from public viewing as it became so sensational that visitors came to see it rather than coming in pilgrimage to the saint s shrine. 40

28 The author William Facchinetti Kerdudo Kerdudo believes that his guidebook goes some way to redressing the fact that many visitors brush over less glamorous yet still very interesting locations. Everyone has heard of the leaning Tower of Pisa, he says. Yet few people ever notice the leaning church tower at the small hillside village of Massino Visconti, which perched at 465 metres above sea level, offers splendid vistas of Lake Maggiore. In addition, if you wander inside you will find a very curious detail that is very easy to overlook. There is a fresco of the crucifixion in which Jesus is depicted completely naked. This is a very rare example of its kind as at some point in history, nude depictions were covered on the Vatican s order. By means of his innovative guidebook, the author wants to draw the visitors attention to unusual and interesting details around them, which without direction would certainly be overlooked. Every year, thousands of visitors flock to the Borromeo Palace and gardens on Isola Bella, and many remain open mouthed when they see the splendid Flemish tapestries on display, says Kerdudo. Yet few observe that the weavers included tiny saucy details, like for example, a mule copulating with a leopard. This is very out of the ordinary considering the austerity of that age. An even Man dressed as a woman at the Sacro Monte of Orta, another curiosity that seems at odds with the austere age during which these works were produced better example can be seen at the Sacro Monte near the town of Orta San Giulio. Amongst the hundreds of statues depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, there is one of a very masculine man dressed in women s clothes, and another of a she-devil dangling her droopy breasts above Saint Francis. It goes to show that the artists of the time had a mischievous sense of humour that has been passed on to us through the centuries. William Facchinetti Kerdudo s book evokes the unique, magical feel of Lake Maggiore and its environs, a region that has inspired writers and artists with its blend of natural wonders and rich history intertwined with ancient legends. Filled with passion and an unquenchable desire to find out about the mysterious and intriguing, the author is looking forward to more projects. His new book, Milano, misteri e itinerari insoliti tra realtà e leggenda (Casa Editrice Polaris SRL), has just been published and was an immediate success. As a result, the author will soon be wandering further than the limits of Lombardy to unearth more intriguing secrets. He has been commissioned to write guidebooks about the mysteries of Turin, Venice and Prague that are due to be published by And staying on the theme of mystery and intrigue, his first romanzo giallo (detective novel) will soon be on the bookshelves too! 41