Coyote and Fox Rehabilitation and Release Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley s Guidelines for Rehabilitating and Releasing Coyotes and Gray Foxes Photo by Carol Baldwin, WCSV ~The Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley strives to provide the best possible care for our patients. The WCSV does not offer any domestic animal food to predatory mammals. All coyotes and foxes are conditioned on live food before they can be released. ~ Ashley Kinney Wildlife Rehabilitation Supervisor Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley Updated October 2012
Introduction to Coyote and Fox Rehabilitation-Prepping Your Organization to Rehabilitate Coyotes and Gray Foxes Our goal as wildlife rehabilitators is to release wild animals. We must keep the animal s best interest in mind and refrain from becoming attached to these animals. Always refrain from handling the animals too frequently, talking around the animals and using endearing terms. We are not here to imprint or habituate wildlife in any way. Young coyotes and foxes are extremely intelligent, social animals that have a controversial rap especially coyotes. Any rehabber raising these intelligent animals must take all necessary precautions to make sure they are not habituated in any way, and are released in a safe environment. Coyotes and foxes must be fearful of humans and able to thrive in the wild. Releasing a coyote or fox that is in any way acclimated to human interaction is setting that animal up for an unfortunate ending. The Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley has spent many years mastering different rehabilitation techniques to release wild coyotes and foxes. The Center is known for its expertise in raising neonatal pups and kits without any imprinting or habituation. The Wildlife Center has also had great success reversing habituated behavior in pups and kits that were illegally kept as pets, or had too much human exposure at a young age. WCSV is an organization that does not use any domestic dog or cat food in our diets. As stated above, any rehabber raising coyotes and foxes are responsible for their every need. Feeding domestic food can cause coyotes and foxes to become accustomed to eating nonnatural food products; in turn these animals will only know to search for kibble in the wild, causing them to become dependent on humans. These animals are predatory, meaning they need to be skillful in predatory behavior. Offering coyotes and foxes domestic foods can and will cause a negative situation for the animals, and a potentially dangerous situation for humans. Before coyotes and foxes are released they are conditioned on live food starting at 13 weeks of age for coyotes, and 15-18 weeks for foxes. If your organization is not able to provide natural food to these animals, we recommend that the coyotes and foxes be rehabilitated at a facility that can accommodate their nutritional needs. The WCSV requires all staff and volunteers to have received the series of three preexposure rabies vaccinations to work with any predatory mammal and bat. All staff and volunteers are to receive extensive training from senior staff before they are able to work with these predatory mammals. For the safety of the handler and the animal, never handle a juvenile or adult coyote or fox alone. If for any reason a handler is injured while working with coyotes or foxes, we require an accident report form to be filled out and returned to the supervisor within 24 hours. If you are able to provide coyotes with appropriate nutritional needs, a quiet environment, large, natural enclosure space and an understanding that these animals are to remain wild, you are ready to take the next step to prepare for rehabilitating these wonderful animals.
Checklist of Basic Items You Will Need to Get Started in Coyote and Gray Fox Rehabilitation Young: A quiet location! Conspecifics never raise a young pup or kit alone. Network with other Centers to find conspecifics. Reuniting before rehabilitation always network with other Centers if you are not sure how to go about reuniting. Recycled furs or stuffed animal to act as a buddy for the pups and kits. If the eyes are closed and the young need bottle-feeding, please use a surrogate stuffed animal. (Photo shown in manual.) Heartbeat recorder Bottles Crate with heating pad Enrichment even for eyes-closed foxes and coyotes! a. Den boxes b. Leaf litter c. Hay d. Pinecones e. Branches WCSV uses Fox Valley Formula Graduation room once eyes open they are moved into a warm, isolated room where a makeshift den is provided. (Photos show in handout) Shallow feeding dishes for soup Parasite control WCSV requires all coyotes and foxes to be fully vaccinated for distemper and fully dewormed before they are moved into their outdoor enclosure. Outdoor enclosure that meets IWRC s Minimum Standards. Ability to live hunt before release. Shows full fear of humans under no circumstances shall you release any coyote or fox that shows signs of imprinting or habituation. It is highly important to understand the natural history and needs of each of these species. We as professional rehabilitators cannot risk habituating or imprinting in any way. Please do not attempt to rehabilitate these animals if you are unable to emotionally detach yourself from these species. As their caregivers we must take all necessary measures to release healthy and fit wild foxes and coyotes.
Does the animal need to be rescued? Key questions to prevent over rescues. Our main goal is to keep all young with their parents. We as respectable rehabbers must do all we can to keep these animals in the wild. Juveniles and adults also have a lot of controversy surrounding them. Politely educating the public on the importance of these animals can save their life! Common Calls the WCSV Receives: Common Nuisance Problems: In my neighborhood May get my cat or dog In my backyard Under my deck Haven t seen mom Keeps coming back to my yard In same location exhausted Common Deterrence Solutions: Bang pots and pans together Secure fencing Secure deck Keep food out of yard Keep small pets indoors while there is an issue Ammonia scented deterrents around property Coyote rollers Monitoring from a distance Understanding that they may stray when young Understanding that you may not see mom/ other relative Questions to Ask Regarding Young: Eyes open or closed? Have you seen conspecifics? Is it vocalizing? If so, for how long? Does the animal look depressed? How long has it been out? Last time parent seen? Time of day you have been seeing the animal? Any obvious injuries? Deceased parent? Is Rescue Needed? If the animal is in need of rehabilitation go over all of your options with the public on how to safely get animals to your Center. WCSV has great partnerships with local Animal Control agencies and WildRescue, an organization that does field rescue, based out of Moss Landing. We never let members of the public handle or attempt to rescue a predatory mammal no matter the age Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley has highly trained staff to handle all of your nuisance coyote and fox questions. If we are unable to help you, we work close with amazing organizations that can. Don t hesitate to reach out for assistance. The animals appreciate it! ~408-929-WILD~ www.wcsv.org
Neonate Red Fox Identification Tips Rust coloration on side of head Kitten-like paws and white nails White tip on tail Birth weight- 86-125g 8 mammae Photo by Adirondack Wildlife Refuge & Rehab Center
Neonate Grey Fox Identification Tips Birth weight- 80-120g 6 mammae Dark coloration on head and back of body Kitten-like paws and nails Black tip on tail Top photo- Carole Baldwin- WCSV Bottom photo- Wildlife Rehabilitation Center of Minnesota (WRC)
Neonate Coyote Identification Tips Birth weight- 230-250 grams 8 mammae White chest patch White tips on nails Bare abdomen Dark tail tip Photo by Kathy Jones, Lindsey Wildlife Museum
Examination Time! Now that you have determined the species, and the young cannot stay in the wild, it s time to get the rehabilitation process started. While examining kits and pups you never want to talk, nor hold the animal like a domestic puppy or kitten. Remember if you treat these animals like the wild animals they are, you will be successful in their rehabilitation. Head to Toe Exam: Remember ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES! Look in the ears and eyes (if open) Check mucous membrane color should be a nice bright pink. o If their mucous membrane color is pale it can be a sign of dehydration and anemia. Take the weight of the animal o The weight of the animals will allow you to calculate any needed medications and fluid therapy administration. It will also tell you how much formula to offer the neonates. Do not offer formula until the animal is fully hydrated. Palpate all limbs for any fractures and/or luxations. Check their temperature if there is any question of the overall health of the animal. Common parasites to look for: Nematodes Tapeworms Fleas Lice Ticks Chiggers Mites Top reasons why WCSV receives neonate coyotes and foxes: Emaciation Hypothermia Parasite infestation (pale, weak and dehydrated) Orphaned Over rescued Reunite!! Gray fox kits, Ashley Kinney, WCSV Any injuries and all prescriptions should be overseen by your veterinarian. Many medical treatments differ between organizations, so please check with your veterinarian for any medical questions. WCSV vaccinates for distemper, and deworms before young are moved into an outdoor enclosure. All coyotes and foxes are quarantined for 14-15 days no exceptions. WCSV microchips all coyotes and foxes for identification purposes. We also paint a small stripe on their ear for visual identification while they are young (using nail polish).
Coyote HBC by Carol Baldwin, WCSV Examining Juvenile and Adult Coyotes: Always muzzle the juveniles and adults. If the coyote or fox is hard to handle, or very stressed, please anesthetize the animal or tranquilize only with your veterinarian on hand. You must make sure to take all necessary safety precautions when handling these guys. You can generally handle the young juveniles by the scruff with a muzzle, between the ears to prevent them from turning around. How do I muzzle an adult coyote or fox? This is a great question! You must be calm and go slow. Have someone restrain the animal, generally with a catchpole, while you (with a gloved hand) slowly move the muzzle over their face. Again, if the animal is too active OR too stressed to be handled without sedation, please do not push the animal. Always think your own safety and the well-being of the patient. It is best to chemically restrain the animal if they are too active and or too stressed for an examination. Safety first!! Adult Gray Fox- Lyme disease. Andrea Rojas, WCSV Common reasons juveniles and adults are admitted: Hit by car o Fractures o Head trauma o Internal Trauma Severe parasite infestation o Mainly mange Hit by car coyote-ashley Kinney, WCSV o Nematodes o Fleas o Ticks Emaciation Head to Toe Exam Animals should be sedated if alert/responsive: Remember ALWAYS WEAR LATEX GLOVES! Look in the ears and eyes Check mucous membrane color should be a nice bright pink. o If their mucous membrane color is pale it can be a sign of dehydration and anemia. Take the weight of the animal o The weight of the animals will allow you to calculate any needed medications and fluid therapy administration. Palpate all limbs for any fractures and or luxations Check body temperature if there is any question of the overall health of the animal. All wildlife hospitals have different medical protocols. Discuss all medical treatments with your veterinarian. Coyote with mange and emaciation, WCSV
Examination is complete, now it is time to set your patient up Neonate coyote and foxes need a warm, well-ventilated environment free of human sounds. You will read this frequently in the handout; hands-off rehabilitation is the ONLY way to successfully rehabilitate and release. Volunteers will want to peak at these young pups and kits, but you must keep human contact to a minimum. You should only go near the young when you are cleaning and feeding. It is vital to have a visual barrier for all cleaning and feeding tasks being performed. Never talk to or around coyote pups and fox kits. Foxes and coyotes are intelligent, social animals that have an instinct to bond; for their survival you must keep your emotions out of their rehabilitation stay. It is important to keep in mind that foxes develop slower than coyotes; they can be 2-8 weeks behind the developmental stages of coyotes. You will have to monitor fox behavior and eating habits more closely than coyotes. Housing for ~0-2 weeks: Well-ventilated Rubbermaid bin with heating pad, soft bedding, recycled fur, and a stuffed animal. ~0-1 week: Coyote ~0-2 week: Gray Fox Diet for ~0-2 weeks: Never start an animal on formula without fully hydrating it first. Always make sure to give the neonate at least four rounds of fluids before offering formula. You want to slowly introduce formula to a newly-admitted animal. Amount of formula is based on the animal s body weight. The Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley uses Fox Valley formula. For their first day on formula you want to start them on a 3:1 ratio (three parts water to one part formula). Keep the animal on 3:1 for 24-48 hours. This will reduce the risk of shocking the neonate s system. Once the neonate is processing the 3:1 ratio you can upgrade to 2:1 (two parts water to one part formula) this will be the strongest ratio you can give to them. If for some reason the neonate is NOT processing the formula, you want to go back to the 3:1 ratio or go back to hydrating. Main signs of the neonate not processing formula are distended abdomen and no fecal output. In some cases there can be an underlying issue
preventing the animal from processing its food. Please check with your veterinarian to rule out any underlying health-related problem. DO NOT handle the animal to bottle-feed!! The Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley has spent many years mastering neonate care. We never handle the animal for bottle-feeding; we use a stuffed animal that is turned into a surrogate mother. Build-A-Mom-Workshop Heartbeat Recorder Warmers to keep formula warm Warmers to keep formula warm The above model will help you improve the chances of not habituating or imprinting the young in your care. Their first few feedings can be somewhat rough new surroundings for the young and different formula taste are both factors. With effort and time you will be successful in using this surrogate mom. The next time you have a fox or coyote under anesthesia record their heartbeat by using an inexpensive heartbeat recording. You can find these recorders on most infant (human) websites.
Housing ~17-25 days: Large dog kennel with clean bedding, heating pad, recycled fur, and enrichment pinecones, branches, hay, leaf litter and a stuffed canine-type animal. ~17-18 days: Coyote ~14-25 days: Gray Fox Diet for ~17-25 days old: NEVER FEED ANY FORM OF DOMESTIC FOOD NO DOG OR CAT FOOD FOR ANY STAGE OF LIFE! At this age coyotes and foxes are starting to move around the den. Coyotes are receiving regurgitated food from their parents and are still nursing. Foxes are still nursing at this point, but will start to chew on soft fruits and meat. The Wildlife Center of Silicon Valley tries to wean these animals as soon as possible. We start offering SOUP about 3-5 days after their eyes open. What is SOUP? Soup contains soft fruits, vegetables, egg and chopped mice with Fox Valley formula. You can blend the food items if the animals are not eating any of them. Banana Berries Yams cooked at first if needed Chopped Mice Ground rabbit Hardboiled Eggs IF you notice the young not eating SOUP, you can add appetite stimulants Gerber Baby Food NutriCal Yogurt Applesauce The coyotes generally start eating SOUP within the first three or four times it is offered to them. As stated earlier, foxes are slower developmentally and can take longer to start consuming the soup. If you have to continue to bottle feed, YOU MUST use a visual barrier especially since their eyes are now open. This is a messy stage in their life but remember, no talking when you clean or feed them!!
Housing ~18-40 days: At this age the kits and pups need a large area to start exploring outside of the den. The WCSV uses an entire room in a portable building. We provide den boxes you can use wooden platter boxes, igloos, and kennels with no doors. You want to add lots of enrichment items for them, as this is the age where they are extremely curious and anxious to explore. Easy enrichment items: Pinecones Hay Shrubs Branches Pumpkins or squash stuffed with soft food items berries, banana, chopped mice, chopped quail, ground rabbit etc. Milk crates filled with hay and soft food items Diet for ~18-40 days: Start to put solid food pieces around the room, not just in the SOUP dish. They will start to forage for food, and some will even start to show caching behavior. You can start introducing larger food items such as cut open quail and small rats. At this stage, start reducing the amount of formula consumption and try to increase the amount of natural foods fruits, vegetables, and meat products. Common food items: Melon Banana Berries Apples Peaches Figs Corn on the cob good enrichment, not just food! Oats and nuts Mice, rats, rabbit, whole chicken, quail, and smelt Egg Coyotes are generally fully weaned (completely off of formula) by 35 days old. Gray foxes are generally fully weaned by 45-50 days of age.
~40 days and up: At this point coyotes should be fully weaned and ONLY on solid food. DO NOT use any form of food dishes, simply scatter the food around the enclosure. This will also teach them how to forage. Foxes will more than likely need another week or so of soup and solid food scattered around the isolation room. Once they are thriving and on solid food for about a week, it is time to move them into a suitable outdoor enclosure. Use of Live Food: We all understand the use of live food is no easy task, but we need to teach these animals as much as we can before they are released back into the wild. As responsible rehabilitators we need to make sure these animals are able to thrive in the wild, and that means they must know how to live hunt. The WCSV uses live mice, rats and quail. Coyotes and foxes are started on slow live prey around 43-50 days old. Quail move slower than rodents, and they are easier to spot in their enrichment-full enclosure. Once the pups and kits master hunting quail we upgrade them to mice, then we will move on to rats. Coyotes and foxes must be live hunted at least three times per week until they are ready for release. Key components to fox and coyote enclosures: Away from noise! Visual barriers Holding pen Den boxes fixed to assist with capture for release Water troughs drain and fill from the outside of the enclosure Cat walks for foxes Large rocks Live grass, shrubs and trees Dirt bottom they will learn to cache food, they also will take dirt baths Predator-proof Foxes and coyotes unable to escape Live pray unable to escape Meets and/or exceeds IWRC s Minimum Standards Spot Cleaning: To reduce the amount of human contact we generally spot clean the enclosure 2-3 times per week. If you monitor their food consumption (amount consumed nightly), you will not have to clean up too much leftover food mainly fecal output.
Cat walk in Fox enclosure Fox enclosure: The fox enclosure is a tall, deep enclosure with a holding pen, large water trough, and plenty of hiding spaces. It contains a large cat walk that they enjoy sunning themselves on. The water trough is set up so we can drain and fill from the outside. The enclosure contains many live plants Toyon, sage, and wild grass. We also have many different large rocks inside the enclosure. There are vines and trees growing around the enclosure to serve as visual barriers and provide shade. The enclosure is located at the back of our compound, away from high-traffic areas. Only highly-trained staff and volunteers are permitted to enter the enclosures. Coyote enclosure: This enclosure can be divided into two sections. The enclosure also has a holding pen. Both sides have a large water trough and den boxes. We have three large trees, several plants and wild grass on each side of the enclosure. Vines and trees are planted on the outside of this enclosure to serve as a visual barrier. Den boxes: Our boxes are designed to make the animals feel more comfortable, and to have a safe capture when they are ready for release. When it comes time to capture you can put a large dog crate at the front opening. There is a section on the lid that opens to allow you to move the animal from the box into the kennel, or capture them using a catchpole or net. Opening on top of den box The coyote and foxes will also use these dens to cache food, burrow, and sleep. You generally do not need to add any bedding to the den boxes; the coyotes and foxes will bring what they want in with them.
Water set up: Our water system allows us to drain and fill the troughs from the outside. Once every three weeks we have to remove the rocks (algae can and will build up) and scrub them. PVC pipe-flows into troughs Water switch lever located outside of the enclosure Water trough Drainage valves outside enclosure Full view of water set-up
Fox Enclosure Pictures during Construction Fox enclosure needs: Cat Walk Water Source Tons of plans and grass for hiding and enrichment Large rocks Dens Away from people Visual barriers around the outside of the enclosure
Coyote Enclosure Coyote enclosure needs: Dens Tons of enrichment- plants, trees, milk crates etc. Water source Large rocks Away from people Visual barriers around the outside of the enclosure
What to do if you have a debilitated juvenile or adult? Setting up an injured coyote or fox: Any debilitated juvenile or adult must be isolated in a dark, quiet environment. WCSV has a quarantine room in a portable building to isolate all debilitated coyote or fox. If the animal is stable enough, they will have free roam in the quarantine room. If the animal has a fracture or injury that requires a small space, they will get set-up in a large dog kennel. If the animal is isolated to a kennel (adults and juveniles), staff will be the only ones permitted to clean and feed this is for liability reasons. Coyotes and foxes in a small environment will be more stressed out. You need to make sure they are away from sounds and people while they are isolated. Diet for debilitated foxes and coyote: If the animal is emaciated, always start them off slow just like any other emaciated animal. Make sure they are well-hydrated before offering them any food. The WCSV uses a/d OR Carnivore care to get them to start eating. We will then continue to add on hard-boiled eggs, and soft fruits and veggies before giving them whole meat product. Upgrading their diet is going to be on a case-by-case basis. Always refer to your veterinarian if you have any questions about emaciation protocol. Once the animal is stable and ready to go outside, you want to start live hunting within 3 days. Adults should be live-hunted (especially if they had any form of fracture) to make sure they are fit for release.
Are they ready for release?! How will you know if your patients are ready for the ultimate step RELEASE?! All coyote and foxes Here is a checklist to see if the coyotes and or foxes are ready to go: No medical treatments for at least two weeks prior to release At least 8-10 months of age Live hunting**a MUST Able to forage for food Full recognition of conspecifics Fearful of humans absolutely no chance of habituation or imprinting Understanding of what their natural diet is (no domestic food) If your patients match all of those requirements, they are ready to go! You must make sure you are releasing them where they were found. If you are unable to locate a good release source we recommend networking with Rangers, Fish and Game and Biologists in the area. You never want to release in an area that has reached its carrying capacity. Always release adults two to three miles from where they were found. The release is the most satisfying thing a wildlife rehabilitator gets to experience. We put so much time, energy and money into making sure these animals receive the best possible care, and the greatest gift ever freedom. Although we are not sure what happens to them in the wild, by following these important guidelines we know we have given them the best possible chance. These animals are one of the most controversial species we can rehabilitate, which is why we must do everything we can to make sure we do the best possible job. Never hesitate to network with specialist if you have questions regarding care. Together we can make their rehabilitation and release successful.