Stylist Manual SYSTEMS NEW METHOD OF PERMANENTLY LIGHTENING AND BRIGHTENING HAIR WITH THE USE OF NON-OXIDIZING PIGMENTS, SILK, HERBS AND BOTANICALS (AMMONIA FREE)
Introduction Dear Artist: FAROUK SHAMI, "the little man with red boots," was not taken seriously in 1986 when he introduced to the worldwide professional beauty industry his first patented ammonia free line of service products, the SUNGLITZ LIGHTENING SYSTEM. With over thirty years of salon experience and a strong cosmetic chemistry background, Farouk dedicated his life to creating professional only service and retail products that have revolutionized and brought needed change to our industry. AS FAROUK CONTINUES to create new "Ammonia Free" Silk Systems products such as BIOSILK PERMS, BIOSILK LIQUID GEL COLOR, BIOGLITZ CRÈME COLOR 2100 and CHI Ionic Permanent Shine Color, Farouk continues to provide his fellow hair artists with a safer workplace environment, advanced knowledge through education and new professional only systems that cannot be duplicated at home. This is why Farouk's mission statement has always been and still is Environment, Education and Ethics. FAROUK IS COMMITTED to bringing you the latest in Advanced American Technology. Through continuous research and development, he has discovered that by adding silk and botanicals to all of his professional service and retail lines, stylists can achieve the look their clients desire while maintaining healthy shiny hair. This scientific breakthrough allows you the opportunity to increase your salon services and income. Farouk believes that you deserve safer, faster and more artistic systems to meet the demands of today's clients.
Weaving Cap Technique Foil Platform Board Technique Full Head Application
Contents Hair Color............................................................. 1 Hair Levels............................................................ 2 Physics............................................................... 3 Excitation............................................................. 4 SUNGLITZ New Service................................................ 5 SUNGLITZ Lighteners.................................................. 6 Color Brighteners...................................................... 8 SUN ENERGY......................................................... 7 SUNGLITZ Application Directions......................................... 8 Sun Cap & Color Correction.............................................. 9 SUNGLITZ Formulation Chart........................................... 10 ULTRAGLITZ......................................................... 11 ULTRAGLITZ Formulation.............................................. 12 ULTRAGLITZ Application Directions...................................... 13 SUNGLITZ and African American Hair.................................... 14 DIAMONDGLITZ..................................................... 15 DIAMONDGLITZ Application Directions................................... 16 Cautions............................................................. 17 SUNGLITZ Home Maintenance.......................................... 18 Glossary............................................................. 19
Hair Color A SCIENCE TO LEARN AND AN ART TO DO VARIOUS METHODS have been used by hairdressers to produce natural looking hair color. The conventional methods consist of using oxidizing tints that go through a process of first lifting the natural pigment and then depositing an artificial dye in the hair. When oxidizing, the artificial dye combines with the hair pigment to produce the new color we see. This system is called permanent hair color, but the results are not permanent. Whenever an artificial dye or tint is added or deposited in human hair, this pigment is not really permanent. Sooner or later, it escapes out of the hair cuticle and washes away. The sun lightens natural hair color by reducing and neutralizing the natural pigment. Sunlight contains a spectrum of color visible to us as red, orange, yellow, green, blue and violet. The colors of the spectrum affect the color we see. The results of the sun's action depend on the natural pigment in the hair and the amount of sun the hair is exposed to. The natural hair color we see is produced partially by genetics, a matter that cannot be controlled; inheritance produces the natural pigment in the hair. The light the hair is exposed to also affects its color. The sun lightens natural hair color by reducing and neutralizing the natural pigment. The sun changes natural hair color to a lighter color with more reflection. It does this without adding or depositing any form of pigment. 1
Hair Levels HAIR COLOR CONSISTS OF THE THREE PRIMARIES: RED, YELLOW, and BLUE. The more concentration of pigment, the darker the color. The heaviest concentration of pigment is found in black hair, a medium concentration of pigment is found in brown and red hair, a light concentration of pigment is found in blonde hair and a dilution of color is white hair. The amount of dark and light determine hair levels. LEVEL HAIR COLOR DOMINANT COLOR 10 White Dilution of Color 9 Light Blonde 8 Medium Blonde YELLOW 7 Dark Blonde 6 Light Brown or Red 5 Medium Brown or Red RED 4 Dark Brown or Red 3 Light Black 2 Medium Black BLUE 1 Dark Black NATURAL HAIR UNDERLYING PIGMENTS Natural Level Level 9 - Light Blonde Level 8 - Medium Blonde Level 7 - Dark Blonde Level 6 - Light Brown Level 5 - Medium Brown Level 4 - Dark Brown Level 3 - Light Black Level 2 - Medium Black Level I - Dark Black Underlying Pigment Yellow Yellow/Orange Orange Orange/Red Red Red/Violet Violet Blue/Violet Blue Reminder: The key to successful results is in proper formulation. You must first determine the level of hair you wish to lighten. You must also understand what color to neutralize or subtract or to enhance in the hair. 2
Physics of the Sun The VIOLET in the sun will subtract or reduce YELLOW in hair. The RED in the sun will subtract or reduce GREEN (BLUE & YELLOW) in hair. The ORANGE in the sun will subtract or reduce BLUE in hair. The BLUE in the sun will subtract or reduce ORANGE (RED & YELLOW) in hair. The YELLOW in the sun will subtract or reduce VIOLET (RED & BLUE) in hair. The GREEN in the sun will subtract or reduce RED in hair. THIS IS NATURE'S LAW OF LIGHT AND PHYSICS. If the sun can subtract color pigment naturally from hair, we can recreate the sun's action in our salon by utilizing pigments to selectively subtract hair's natural pigments. We can produce natural permanent colors without any additional deposit. COLOR IS MADE OF MATTER that is capable of absorbing and reflecting light. Absorbing properties are caused by certain electrons in the color molecules. There are two types of colorants: (1) Dyes that only absorb light, mostly soluble. (2) Pigments that absorb and reflect light, mostly insoluble. CONVENTIONAL HAIR LIGHTENING is very complex. Decolorizing all natural pigment, then the addition of tints and dyes produce artificial results. When a dye is mixed with H 2 O 2, its molecules oxidize and deposit in hair for a limited time. Addition of dyes is never permanent. Dyes, when mixed with H 2 O 2 go through a state of excitation. Dyes oxidize and die. Addition of dyes to natural pigment causes absorption of light and darkens hair. SUNGLITZ pigments, when mixed with H 2 O 2, go through a state of excitation without oxidation, absorb or subtract opposite natural pigment and wash out of hair. Without addition, hair will reflect more light and appear shinier. 3
Excitation SOUND WAVES can be amplified to travel a further distance. Light waves can be amplified or excited to produce lasers. Pigment can be amplified or excited to be made more powerful. Pigments are made of atoms and molecules called matter. Unlike dyes, pigments can be excited without oxidizing. When an atom gets excited it goes from one state of energy to a higher state of energy The purer the pigment, the more identical the wavelength. When pigment is stimulated or excited with H 2 O 2, it emits light energy or photons. The emitted photons meet other excited atoms and produce more photons identical in wavelength and frequency. This process becomes spontaneous, thus producing an amplification of energy and power. When atoms of the same wavelength meet, they strengthen each other and become in phase with each other. Pigment of opposite wavelengths will subtract or cancel each other. H 2 O 2 Atom Photons Photons FOR EXAMPLE, brown hair contains a medium concentration of RED, YELLOW and BLUE. Once SUNGLITZ RED LIGHTENER is mixed with SUN ENERGY, applied and enters the hair shaft, the RED pigment in hair and in SUNGLITZ become in phase with each other. The natural RED hair pigment remains, but GREEN (BLUE & YELLOW) will be subtracted and reduced. The SUNGLITZ RED pigment washes out with shampoo, leaving natural reddish blonde results. 4
NEW PATENTED SERVICE LIGHTENS 1-4 LEVELS SUNGLITZ is a patented one step process to permanently lighten and brighten hair with the use of non- oxidizing pigments. The SUNGLITZ SYSTEM was designed to lighten and brighten hair by simply using the primaries and secondaries of color in association with the use of the fundamentals of the color wheel. SUNGLITZ LIGHTENERS and COLOR BRIGHTENERS are equipped with the power of organic pigments that are capable of overpowering and neutralizing natural hair's complementary pigments. The lightening and color neutralizing process takes place immediately, thus lifting l - 4 levels. SUNGLITZ is the artistic approach to lift and brighten hair in one process, leaving in the wanted natural color tones to achieve a natural balance of color. With millions of actual clients having been lightened and brightened with the SUNGLITZ SYSTEM, our research has proven the following results: + Saves time (lifts l - 4 levels with a variety of tonal values in a single-step process) + Produces excellent hair condition (elasticity remains normal) + Produces various shades (looks natural, not artificial) + Leaves shine and reflection (no drab ends) + No fading of color (no deposit of artificial dyes) + Requires no re-dos which means no additional product expense + Causes no irritation to the scalp (not a scalp application) + Cost efficient (product cost is low) + Produces satisfied clients (return visits, more income) + Hair can be permed and tinted the same day (more revenue for additional services) + Artistic and impressive + Brighteners can be used for 30-60 second Color Correction 5
LIGHTENERS Ammonia Free (Lifts l - 4 Levels) SUNGLITZ LIGHTENER powder with nonoxidizing energetic pigment, mixed with SUN ENERGY, will lift hair color and neutralize the color tone without any deposit in one process. While lifting 1-4 levels, SUNGLITZ pigment cancels the opposite natural hair color pigment. SUNGLITZ LIGHTENERS have a silk protein and masking clay base for tightening and strengthening and botanicals, herbs, panthenol, milk, amino acids and olive oil for conditioning and moisturizing hair. SUNGLITZ Red + Violet to achieve Reddish Blonde SUNGLITZ Orange +Yellow or White to achieve Golden Blonde SUNGLITZ Yellow + Green to achieve Pale Yellow Blonde SUNGLITZ Green + Blue to achieve Pale Blonde SUNGLITZ Blue + Green to achieve Cool Ash Blonde SUNGLITZ Blue + Violet to achieve Honey Beige Blonde SUNGLITZ White added to a formula to achieve Paler Results Remember: Use formulation chart on page 10 to achieve desired results. You can intermix two adjacent colors but not two complimentaries. Left over SUNGLITZ LIGHTENER mixture can be reused for Sun Cap services. SUN ENERGY SUNGLITZ SUN ENERGY is a creme developer that contains H 2 O 2 used to stimulate and energize the molecules of pigment in the SUNGLITZ LIGHTENERS. SUN ENERGY is a buffered and stabilized formula with low volumes of hydrogen peroxide. Once the formula is heat activated, it will release its oxygen and become water. 2% SUN ENERGY contains 6.6 Volume H 2 O 2. When mixed with SUNGLITZ LIGHTENER, 2% SUN ENERGY will lift l - 2 levels. 4% SUN ENERGY contains 13.2 Volume H 2 O 2. When mixed with SUNGLITZ LIGHTENER. 4% SUN ENERGY will lift 3-4 levels. 6
COLOR BRIGHTENERS COLOR BRIGHTENERS are concentrated non-oxidizing pigments in a shampoo base used for neutralizing without lifting. They brighten and balance tones without deposit. COLOR BRIGHTENERS are painted over SUNGLITZ LIGHTENERS to produce hair color harmony. They will cancel the opposite pigment and wash out of the hair. COLOR BRIGHTENERS Natural Organic Pigment in a shampoo base to enhance colors without deposit Blue Brightener to enhance Cool Ash Shades Red Brightener to enhance Red Shades Yellow Brightener to enhance Yellow Shades Orange Brightener to enhance Gold Shades Violet Brightener to enhance Beige Shades Green Brightener to enhance Pale Shades White Brightener to enhance Paler Shades + COLOR BRIGHTENERS are applied over Lightener applications with a SUNGLITZ Artist Fan Brush. Apply Color Brighteners deep into the Lightener to assure penetration. The different Color Brighteners will produce various tonal values. + When Color Brighteners are shampooed in, they brighten tones and enhance colors permanently. Color Brighteners do not lift or deposit color, they brighten only by reducing their complementary colors. + COLOR BRIGHTENERS can be used with BioSilk Liquid Gel Color and BioGlitz Crème Color 2100. + On dry hair, Color Brighteners can be used as temporary or party colors. 7
APPLICATION DIRECTIONS 1. Shake container prior to use. 2. Always strand test to ensure desired results. 3. Select lightening technique, such as pull through SUNGLITZ Speed Weaving Cap, Foiling, Weaving, Painting, or Scrunching. 4. Prior to application, saturate hair with water. Apply generous amount of Pre Treat. Comb through hair. Leave in. 5. Using the SUNGLITZ Formulation Chart, determine the darkest level of client's hair and the desired tonal value to be achieved. To lift 1 to 2 levels, use 2% (6.6 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 3 to 4 levels, use 4% (13.2 volume) Sun Energy. 6. Mix in a glass or plastic bowl. For Speed Weaving Cap technique, measure 1 part of Lightener to 1 part of Sun Energy. Mix to a thick consistency. For Foiling, Weaving, Painting, Scrunching or Glitz Gun techniques, measure 1 part of Lightener to 1 part of Sun Energy. The thicker the consistency, the faster the lifting action. The thinner the consistency, the slower the lifting action. 7. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener generously to the hair to be lightened. Apply Lightener heavier at new growth and thinner toward the ends. Avoid overlapping previously lightened or damaged hair. 8. Using SUNGLITZ Artist Fan Brushes, apply Color Brighteners over the Lightener generously to penetrate through the Lightener and to the hair. The more Color Brighteners used, the more shades and shine will be achieved. Color Brighteners may be applied in stripes, dots or zigzag patterns. (Be artistic.) 9. Check the hair for lifting action. (Using water, spray product completely off of the hair strand and towel dry.) If lightening action has begun, adjust processing time. 10. Cover with an elastic plastic cap and process under a pre-heated low heat dryer (not hot), or at room temperature. Lower or no heat is required for porous hair or for achieving red tones. Porous and permed hair processes faster. Tinted hair requires longer processing time. 11. Process for approximately 1 to 2 minutes, check hair color and condition. For lighter results, place back under the dryer or continue processing at room temperature. 12. Check hair every 2 to 3 minutes until desired results are achieved. 13. Once the level of lift is achieved, remove elastic plastic cap. (When processing under a low heat dryer, allow to cool for 3 to 5 minutes. This will allow the cuticle to contract.) 14. Rinse, thoroughly with luke warm water. Shampoo the hair with Repair & Shine Polishing Shampoo. Rinse, towel dry and apply Repair & Shine Surface Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinse, towel dry and apply a few drops of Repair & Shine Surface Treatment and leave in. 8
APPLICATION RECOMMENDATIONS AFTER PULLING HAIR THROUGH CAP, dampen hair with water and apply PRE TREAT. For maximum shine and reflection, use all COLOR BRIGHTENERS on top of LIGHTENER application to achieve a variety of tonal values. Relaxed hair processes in 1-2 minutes only (no heat necessary). For extra lift or paler results, add one part of White LIGHTENER to formula. Timing is approximate, use your professional judgment. Tinted hair takes 1-3 minutes longer to process. Sun Cap SUN CAP is a service to shine hair by removing all build-up and enhancing color harmony. Hair will feel normal and look more natural than ever before. DIRECTIONS: 1. Determine color you wish to subtract from the hair color and select the opposite color Lightener or use White Lightener to remove build-up without changing tone. 2. In a glass or plastic bowl, mix one scoop of SUNGLITZ LIGHTENER, 1 scoop of COLOR BRIGHTENER, and one or two scoops of 2% SUN ENERGY. 3. Rinse hair with warm water and shampoo with SUN CAP mixture for only 30-60 seconds. 4. Rinse, thoroughly with luke warm water. Shampoo the hair with Repair & Shine Polishing Shampoo. Rinse, towel dry and apply Repair & Shine Surface Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinse, towel dry and apply a few drops of Repair & Shine Surface Treatment and leave in. Color Correction SHOULD COLOR CORRECTION be needed, it can be done on pre-lightened hair quickly and easily. Sometimes your results may be a little too warm, a little too cool, etc. Color correction is done by shampooing with the opposite COLOR BRIGHTENER of the color you wish to subtract for about 30 seconds. EXAMPLE: If color is too RED, shampoo with GREEN BRIGHTENER. If color is too GOLD, shampoo with BLUE BRIGHTENER. If color is too YELLOW, shampoo with VIOLET BRIGHTENER. If color is too GREEN, shampoo with RED BRIGHTENER. If color is too COOL or PALE, shampoo with ORANGE BRIGHTENER. 9
FORMULAS For 1-4 Levels of Lift STEPS TO FOLLOW WHEN FORMULATING Determine clients level and tone. Determine Lighteners needed. Determine desired level and tone. Determine Sun Energy needed. Determine approximate time needed to achieve desired color and tone. 10
LIGHTENERS Ammonia Free (Lifts 4-8 Levels) ULTRAGLITZ LIGHTENER powder with non-oxidizing energetic pigment, mixed with SUN ENERGY, will lift hair color and neutralize the color tone without any deposit in one process. While lifting 4-8 levels, ULTRAGLITZ pigments cancel the opposite natural hair color pigments. ULTRAGLITZ LIGHTENERS have a silk protein and masking clay base for tightening and strengthening, and botanicals, herbs, panthenol, milk, amino acids, and olive oil for conditioning and moisturizing hair. BEFORE ULTRAGLITZ Lighteners when mixed with SUN ENERGY: ULTRAGLITZ Yellow/Green achieves Pale Yellow Blonde ULTRAGLITZ Blue/Green achieves Cool Ash Blonde ULTRAGLITZ Blue/Violet achieves Honey Beige Blonde ULTRAGLITZ Red/Orange achieves Reddish Gold Blonde DURING ULTRAGLITZ is formulated to lift 4-8 levels using low volumes of SUN ENERGY. 4% SUN ENERGY is (13.2 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 4 levels. 6% SUN ENERGY is (19.8 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 5-6 levels. 7.5% SUN ENERGY is (25 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 7-8 levels. AFTER 11
FORMULAS For 4-8 Levels of Lift MINUTES MINUTES REDDISH PALE COOL HONEY SUN UNDER COVERED HAIR GOLD YELLOW ASH BEIGE ENERGY LOW HEAT AT ROOM LEVEL TONES TONES TONES TONES % DRYER TEMP. 6 LIGHT RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 5-10 10-15 4% BROWN ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES 5 MEDIUM RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 10-11 15-20 6% BROWN ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES 4 DARK RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 11-12 20-25 6% BROWN ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES 3 LIGHT RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 12-14 25-30 7.5% BLACK ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES 2 MEDIUM RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 14-15 30-35 7.5% BLACK ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES 1 DARK RED/ YELLOW/ BLUE/ BLUE/ 15-20 35-40 7.5% BLACK ORANGE GREEN GREEN VIOLET MINUTES MINUTES Saturate with water and apply a generous amount of PRE TREAT prior to application. Use all COLOR BRIGHTENERS to achieve various tonal values. Always test strand after 5 minutes processing time. 12
APPLICATION DIRECTIONS 1. Shake container prior to use. 2. Always strand test to ensure desired results. 3. Select lightening technique, such as pull through SUNGLITZ Speed Weaving Cap, Foiling, Weaving, Painting or Scrunching. 4. Prior to application, dampen hair with water. Apply generous amount of Pre Treat. Comb through hair. Leave in. 5. Using the ULTRAGLITZ Formulation Chart, determine the darkest level of client's hair and the desired tonal value to be achieved. To lift 4 levels, use 4% (13.2 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 5 to 6 levels, use 6% (19.8 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 7 to 8 levels, use 7.5% (25 volume) Sun Energy. 6. Mix in a glass or plastic bowl. For Speed Weaving Cap technique, measure 1 part of Lightener to 1 part of Sun Energy. Mix to a thick consistency. For Foiling, Weaving, Painting, Scrunching or Glitz Gun techniques, measure 1 part of Lightener to 1 parts of Sun Energy. The thicker the consistency, the faster the lifting action. The thinner the consistency, the slower the lifting action. 7. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener mixture generously to the hair to be lightened. Apply Lightener heavier at new growth and thinner toward the ends. Avoid overlapping previously lightened or damaged hair. 8. Using SUNGLITZ Artist Fan Brushes, apply Color Brighteners over the Lightener generously to penetrate through the Lightener and to the hair. The more Color Brighteners used, the more shades and shine will be achieved. Color Brighteners may be applied in stripes, dots or zigzag patterns. (Be artistic.) 9. Check the hair for lifting action. (Using water, spray product completely off of the hair strand and towel dry.) If lightening action has begun, adjust processing time. 10. Cover with an elastic plastic cap and process under a pre-heated low heat dryer (not hot), or at room temperature. Lower or no heat is required for porous hair or for achieving red tones. Porous and permed hair processes faster. Tinted hair requires longer processing time. 11. Process for approximately 1 to 3 minutes, check hair color and condition. For lighter results, place back under the dryer or continue processing at room temperature. 12. Check hair every 2 to 3 minutes until desired results are achieved. 13. Once the level of lift is achieved, remove elastic plastic cap. (When processing under a low heat dryer, allow to cool for 3 to 5 minutes. This will allow the cuticle to contract.) 14. Rinse, thoroughly with luke warm water. Shampoo the hair with Repair & Shine Polishing Shampoo. Rinse, towel dry and apply Repair & Shine Surface Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinse, towel dry and apply a few drops of Repair & Shine Surface Treatment and leave in. 13
and APPLICATION PROCEDURE FOR AFRICAN AMERICAN HAIR THE SUNGLITZ and ULTRAGLITZ Systems are ideal to lighten textured hair due to the fact that they are both ammonia free and contain silk. The hair is conditioned as it is lightened. When doing a SUNGLITZ or ULTRAGLITZ service, consider the condition, porosity, and color of the hair. Hair that has been curled, relaxed, or pressed will have become more porous than unprocessed hair and will require heavy moisturizing with water and PRE TREAT prior to application. Preshampooing is not recommended or needed. Hair that has been relaxed with Sodium Hydroxide requires a preliminary strand test prior to application! PROCEDURE AND APPLICATION: 1. Examine hair and determine level of color, quality of hair and desired results to be achieved. 2. Refer to Formulation chart for SunGlitz or UltraGlitz Lightener and percentage of Sun Energy to use. 3. Do a strand test to insure desired results. 4. Select your favorite application technique: weaving cap, painting, foiling, etc. 5. Saturate the hair to be lightened with water, then apply a generous amount of Pre Treat. This will prepare the hair for SunGlitz or UltraGlitz Lightener applications by equalizing the porosity. 6. Mix Lightener with Sun Energy according to Formulation Charts. 7. Apply Lightener thoroughly surrounding the hair shafts and then apply Color Brighteners. When applying Color Brighteners, be sure to press them into the Lightener. After application is completed, check several strands to see if lightening has begun. 8. Cover with an elastic plastic cap and process 1 to 4 minutes at room temperature. 9. Rinse, thoroughly with luke warm water. Shampoo the hair with Repair & Shine Polishing Shampoo. Rinse, towel dry and apply Repair & Shine Surface Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinse, towel dry and apply a few drops of Repair & Shine Surface Treatment and leave in. NOTE: UltraGlitz may require 1-5 minutes under a low heat dryer. After reaching desired level, cool for 1-2 minutes prior to rinsing. 14
BLACK MAGIC The Color Remover (Lifts 1-8 Levels) DIAMONDGLITZ when mixed with Sun Energy is capable of lifting 1-8 levels and can be utilized for all away-from-the-scalp applications as well as a full head application. (When using this technique, always start application 1/8 inch from the scalp.) DIAMONDGLITZ organic pigments and carbon absorb and refine all color, producing pale yellow blonde results. Use COLOR BRIGHTENERS to adjust tonal value or achieve tonal value with BioSilk Liquid Gel Color or BioGlitz Crème Color 2100. DIAMONDGLITZ LIGHTENER has a silk protein and masking clay base for tightening and strengthening and botanicals, herbs, panthenol, milk, amino acids and olive oil for conditioning and moisturizing hair. DIAMONDGLITZ is formulated to lift 1-8 levels using low volumes of SUN ENERGY. 2% SUN ENERGY is (6.6 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 1-2 levels. 4% SUN ENERGY is (13.2 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 3-4 levels. 6% SUN ENERGY is (19.8 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 5-6 levels. 7.5% SUN ENERGY is (25 volume H 2 O 2 ) used for lifting 7-8 levels. DIAMONDGLITZ FORMULAS For 1-8 Levels of Lift SUN MINUTES UNDER MINUTES COVERED HAIR ENERGY LOW HEAT AT ROOM LEVEL % DRYER TEMPERATURE 8-9 2-5 5-10 LIGHT& MEDIUM 2% MINUTES MINUTES BLONDE 7 5-10 10-20 DARK 4% MINUTES MINUTES BLONDE 6 5-10 10-20 LIGHT 4% MINUTES MINUTES BROWN 5 10-15 20-30 MEDIUM 6% MINUTES MINUTES BROWN 4 10-15 20-30 DARK 6% MINUTES MINUTES BROWN 3-1 BLACK 7.5% 15-20 30-40 MINUTES MINUTES Dampen with water and PRE TREAT prior to application. Always test strand after 5 minutes processing time. Time is approximate depending on porosity, condition and amount of heat. BEFORE DURING AFTER 15
APPLICATION DIRECTIONS 1. Shake container prior to use. 2. Always strand test to ensure desired results. 3. Select lightening technique, such as pull through SUNGLITZ Speed Weaving Cap, Foiling, Weaving, Painting, Scrunching or Full Head. 4. Prior to application, dampen hair with water. Apply generous amount of Pre Treat. Comb through hair. Leave in. 5. Determine the darkest level of client's hair and the desired level of lift. To lift 1 to 2 levels, use 2% (6.6 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 3 to 4 levels, use 4% (13.2 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 4 to 6 levels, use 6% (19.8 volume) Sun Energy. To lift 7 to 8 levels, use 7.5% (25 volume) Sun Energy. 6. Mix in a glass or plastic bowl. For Speed Weaving Cap technique, measure 1 part of Diamondglitz Lightener to 1 part of Sun Energy. Mix to a thick consistency. For Foiling, Weaving, Painting, Scrunching or Full Head techniques, measure 1 part Diamondglitz Lightener to 1 parts of Sun Energy. The thicker the consistency, the faster the lifting action. The thinner the consistency the slower the lifting action. 7. Wearing gloves, apply Lightener mixture generously to the hair to be lightened. Apply Lightener heavier at new growth and thinner toward the ends. Avoid overlapping previously lightened or damaged hair. (When doing a Full Head application, always start 1 /8 inch from the scalp.) 8. Check the hair for lifting action. (Using water, spray product completely off of the hair strand and towel dry.) If lightening action has begun, adjust processing time. 9. Cover with an elastic plastic cap and process under a pre-heated low heat dryer or at room temperature. 10. Process for approximately 1 to 2 minutes, check hair color and condition. For lighter results, place back under the dryer or continue processing at room temperature. 11. Check hair every 2 to 3 minutes until desired results are achieved. Porous and permed hair process faster. Tinted hair requires longer processing time. 12. Once the level of lift is achieved, remove elastic plastic cap. (When processing under a low heat dryer, allow to cool for 3-5 minutes. This will allow the cuticle to contract, tightening and strengthening the hair.) 13. If hair is not light enough, mix another application of Diamondglitz according to the formulation chart for the amount of lift required and reapply. Process without heat. Toners can be used after rinsing out Diamondglitz to create the desired shade or tone in the hair. 14. Rinse, thoroughly with luke warm water. Shampoo the hair with Repair & Shine Polishing Shampoo. Rinse, towel dry and apply Repair & Shine Surface Treatment for 5 minutes. Rinse, towel dry and apply a few drops of Repair & Shine Surface Treatment and leave in. 16
CAUTIONS PLEASE READ MANUAL THOROUGHLY, attend a SUNGLITZ Systems class or hands on workshop and get certified before attempting to use SUNGLITZ, ULTRAGLITZ or DIAMONDGLITZ. It's simple, yet it is different. PLEASE FOLLOW THE FORMULATION CHARTS for predictable results. SUNGLITZ and ULTRAGLITZ are not to be used as full scalp applications. SUNGLITZ and ULTRAGLITZ are heat activated and process too fast for such services. SUNGLITZ, ULTRAGLITZ and DIAMONDGLITZ are not recommended for previously bleached hair, nor for hair that has been previously coated with Henna, coating colors, or metallic dyes. METALLIC DYES in the hair can be detected when, after the LIGHTENER has been applied, the hair becomes very warm before going under the dryer. Rinse hair immediately, then reapply LIGHTENER and COLOR BRIGHTENERS. PROCESSING TIME will vary depending on hair state of porosity and condition, body temperature and amount of heat applied. Time is always approximated. TINTED HAIR, depending on quantity and quality of dye deposited, will take extra processing time. HAIR MAY BE PERMED successfully before or after a SUNGLITZ, ULTRAGLITZ or DIAMONDGLITZ service using the BioSilk Perms formula suitable for the hair condition. Hair can be SUNGLITZED, ULTRAGLITZED or DIAMONDGLITZED if in good condition, immediately after a BioSilk Perm. Processing time will be faster. Saturate hair with water and apply Pre Treat to the hair to be lightened before applying LIGHTENERS. 17
HOME MAINTENANCE REPAIR & SHINE - Polishing Shampoo Superior luster enhancing shampoo Reconstructs the hair strength Exceptional volume and smoothness Enhances the shine Good for all hair types REPAIR & SHINE - Surface Treatment Superior luster enhancing treatment Enriched with Silk and Amino Acids Detangles, conditions and moisturizes the hair Leaves hair smoother and shiner REPAIR & SHINE - Silk Solution Leave in-feel the Silk and see the shine instantly Reconstructs the hair strength Provides exceptional volume, smoothness and incredible shine 18
Glossary ATOM - The smallest part of an element capable of existing alone or in combination and which cannot be changed or destroyed in any chemical reaction. ORGANIC - Of, pertaining to, or of the nature of plants. OXIDIZE - To unite with oxygen. DYE - A coloring matter that is soluble for the most part and deposits only after a process of chemical oxidation. ELECTRON - An electrically charged particle of the atom. EXCITATION - Process of increasing the state of energy of atoms or molecules into a higher state of energy. Also called activation. FREQUENCY - Number of waves completed in a second. H 2 O 2 - Hydrogen Peroxide. IN-PHASE - Being of the same. LIGHT - That form of radiant energy that stimulates the organs of sight, having wavelengths ranging from 3900 to 7700 angstrom units and travels at an approximate speed of 186,300 miles per second. MOLECULE - The smallest part of an element, substance, or compound that can exist freely in the solid, liquid or gaseous state and still retain its composition and properties. PHOTON - An amount of radiation energy moving with the velocity of light and an energy proportional to its wavelength or vibrations. PHYSICS - The science that deals with matter and energy, and the laws governing their reactions when placed in a special situation and circumstance with outcomes being precisely observed and measurements exact. PIGMENT - A class of finely powdered, insoluble coloring matters, which is of organic origin that is capable of absorbing and reflecting light. SPECTRUM - The continuously varying band of color observed when a beam of white light is passed through a prism which separates each component of light according to frequencies ranging from low for red to high for violet. SUN CAP - A service to shine hair by removing all build up and enhancing color harmony by shampooing hair with Lightener, Color Brightener and 2% SUN ENERGY. WAVELENGTH - A fundamental unit in the study of radiant energy. The distance measured between the peaks of two waves. 19
SYSTEMS ADVANCED AMERICAN TECHNOLOGY 2000 Farouk Systems, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the permission of Farouk Shami. 250 Pennbright Houston, Texas 77090 (281) 876-2000 (800) 237-9175 FAX (281) 876-1700 www.farouk.com SKU# MA4015E