OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT SHORT COURSE For Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector GARMENT PRODUCTION Types of Fullness TH007vi RATIONALE This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. This module is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard in Types of Fullness in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRU has developed this short course for the community and other stake holders to have better knowledge and skills in producing quality garments. Furthermore the course aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the community to have the opportunity to learn the basic construction skills in garment production. p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 fax: (675) 323 0944 NOT FOR SALE The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)
TABLE OF CONTENT CONTENTS Pages Course Outline 2 Competency Profile 3 4 Types of Fullness Curriculum Guide 5 Overview of Learning Outcomes 6 7 Darts Gathering Pleats Tucks Appendix 8 12 Attachments 13 Safety Rules Glossary Acknowledgement 14 1
COURSE OUTLINE: Types of Fullness Program: Course: Module code: Module name: Tourism and Hospitality Garment Production TH007vi Types of Fullness Module1: Workplace Health and Safety Module 2: Learning to Sew Module 3: Basic Hand Stitches Module 4: Decorative Stitches Module 5: Seams Module 6: Types of Fullness Module 7: Types of Attachments Module 8: Types of Hems Module 9: Types of Fasteners 2
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Fullness Duty Task A. Workplace Health and Safety A1. Safety regulations A2. Hazard/risk A3. Contingency measures B. Introduction to Sewing [NECESSITIES OF SEWING] B1. Define sewing B2. Identify tools and supplies B3. Sewing machine operation B4. Sewing area C. Basic Hand Stitches C1. Tacking stitch C2. Running stitch C3. Back stitch [BASIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES] C4. Slip stitch C5. Overcasting stitch C6. Blanket stitch D. Types of Decorative Stitches D1. Chain stitch D2. Stem stitch D3. Satin stitch D4. Scross stitch D5. Herringbone stitch D6. Lazy daisy stitch D7. French knot stitch D8. Cretan stitch E. Types of Seams E1. Open seam E2. French seam E3. Flat seam F. Types of Fullness F1. Construct darts F2. Sew gathering F3. Sew pleats F4. Sew tucks 3
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Hems Duties Task G. Types of Attachments G1. Attach facing G2. Attach pocket G3. Attach collar G4. Attach sleeve G5. Attach cuffs G6. Attach placket H. Types of Hems H1. Sew a turned upedge H2. Sew a faced edge H3. Sew an enclosed edge I. Types of Fasteners I1. Attach hooks and eyes for overlap, just meet and exposed edges I2. Sew snaps for overlap, just meet edges and may show I3. Sew snaps I4. Sew self gripping fasteners I5. Make decorative fasteners I6. Attach zipper I7. Make buttons and buttonholes 4
CURRICULUM GUIDE Program: Course: Module code: Module name: Module purpose: Nominal duration: Prerequisites: Content: Suggested delivery method: Instructor: Assessment condition: Reference: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY GARMENT PRODUCTION TH007vi Types of Fullness The purpose of the module is to impart and equip participants with essential skills and knowledge in sewing different types of fullness. The module will take approximately 4 hours. There is no prerequisite for this module. F1. Darts F2. Gathering F3. Pleats F4. Tucks The short course will be delivered in a practical, hands-on manner. 1. Explanation (what we will do) 5% 2. Demonstration (how we will do it) 15% 3. Implementation (now you do it) 70% 4. Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10% The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the community or a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill. In a classroom or training with proper: lighting, ventilation table and chairs sewing tools and equipment 1. Complete Guide to Sewing 2. Complete Book of Handcrafts 5
Overview of Learning Outcomes On successfully completion of the course participants will be able to sew samples of different types of fullness. APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide (Learning outcome). Task F1: Darts Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Learning outcome F1.1: Construct samples of the two types of darts. Teaching strategy: Learning activities for the trainee must include the instructor to; 1.1 Identify equipment and materials to use. 1.2 Identify the types of darts. 1.3 Explain where the darts can be applied on a garment. 1.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the darts. Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where all participants are provided with; teaching notes sewing machine samples of sewn darts scissors threads tacking pins Assessment criteria: The participant has; 1.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 1.2.2 Named the types of darts. 1.2.3 Outlined where the darts can be applied on a garment. 1.2.4 Applied procedures in sewing the darts. Assessment method: Observation Oral questioning Practical demonstration APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide (Learning outcome). Task F2: Gathering Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Learning outcome F2.1: Sew samples of gathering using the two methods. Teaching strategy: Learning activities for the trainee must include the instructor to; 2.1 Identify steps in removing the bed linings. 2.2 Identify methods of gathering. 2.3 Explain where the gathering can be applied on garments. 2.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the gathering. Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where all participants are provided with; teaching notes sewing machine (14cm (L) x 5cm (W) Band (8cm (L) x 20cm (W) gathering sample of a sewn gathering scissors threads Assessment criteria: The participant has; 2.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to uses. 2.1.2 Outlined methods of gathering. 2.1.3 Outlined where the gathering can be applied on a garment. 2.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the gatherings. Assessment method: Observation Oral questioning Practical demonstration 6
APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide (Learning outcome). Task F3: Pleats Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Learning outcome F3.1: Sew samples of three different types of pleats. Teaching strategy: Learning activities for the participants must include the instructor to; 3.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. 3.2 Identify the types of pleats. 3.2 Explain where the pleats can be applied on garments. 3.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the pleats. Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where the participants are provided with; teaching notes sewing machine (14cm (L) x 5cm (W) (8cm (L) x 20cm (W) sample of a sewn pleats scissors threads Assessment criteria: The participant has; 3.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 3.1.2 Named the types of pleats. 3.1.3 Outlined where the pleats can be applied on a garment. 3.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the pleats. Assessment method: Observation Oral questioning Practical demonstration APPENDIX 4: Training and Assessment Guide (Learning outcome). Task F4: Tucks Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Learning outcome F4.1: Sew samples of three different types of tucks. Teaching strategy: Learning activities for the participants must include the instructor to; 4.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. 4.2 Identify the types of tucks. 4.3 Explain where the tucks can be applied on garments. 4.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the tucks. Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where the participants are provided with; teaching notes sewing machine (15cm (L) x 15cm (W) sample of a sewn tucks sample of a sewn pleats scissors threads Assessment criteria: The participant has; 4.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 4.1.2 Named the types of tucks. 4.1.3 Outlined where the tucks can be applied on a garment. 4.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the tucks. Assessment method: Observation Oral questioning Practical demonstration 7
APPENDIX 5: Introduction ARRANGEMENTS OF FULLNESS One of the first things to be done in making up a garment is to arrange the fullness. These are darts, gathers, pleats and tucks. Instructional Notes Tools and supplies required Sewing machine Scissors 1 metre kalico (cut according to the 15cm x 15cm (only a suggested measurement) Threads Tape measure Tacking pins F1: Darts What are darts? Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight (for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body fit). Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured. There are two types of darts; A single-pointed dart is wide at one end and pointed at the other. A sharp dart has points at both ends - It is usually used at the waistline, with the points extending to the bust and hips. How do I make a straight dart? The standard straight dart starts at a seam line and tapers to nothing at its tip. To construct this dart: With rights sides together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, matching the markings and the stitching lines. Place pins at right angles to the stitching line. Stitch the dart from the wide end to the point, removing the pins as you go. What if the dart has two points? A double-pointed straight dart is made exactly like a standard straight dart, except that you start at the center of the dart and stitch to one tip. Repeat for the other end, overlapping a few stitches in the center of the dart. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip allows the dart to spread open a bit so that it lies flat. Stitch in the direction of the arrows Clip the dart at its widest part How do I avoid a bubble at the tip of my dart? As you stitch to the point, take the last few stitches right on the fold. Leave the thread ends long enough to tie in a knot. To tie, loop the threads into a half knot, and then insert a pin into the loop so that its tip is at the tip of the dart. Pull the thread ends until the knot tightens against the tip of the pin. Remove the pin and clip the thread ends, leaving _ to _ (6mm to 1.3cm) tails. What about curved darts? Curved darts give a closer-to-the-body fit. Because the dart is curved, it is important to stitch its shape accurately. To do this, you will need to mark the entire stitching line (broken line) and any dots before you begin to sew. Use any marking method that is suitable for your fabric. When you are ready to stitch, fold the fabric right sides together through the center of the dart, matching the stitching lines and the markings. For a single-pointed curved dart, stitch from the widest part to the tip. For a double-pointed curved dart, stitch in two steps and clip, just like for a double-pointed straight dart. What is a dart seam? A dart seam is long, curved dart that starts at the hipline of the side seam and extends diagonally to the bust. It is sometimes referred to as a French dart. The pattern piece is designed so that the dart has cut edges, rather than center fold line. This makes the dart easier to sew and 8
eliminates bulk. When the cut edges are brought together and the dart is stitched, the result looks like a seam with a point at the end. Follow the same marking and stitching procedures as for any other dart. A dart seam is usually pressed flat on one side, then open for most of its length and flat at the tip. To work gathers The basic procedure 1. Work 2 rows of stitches, 0.25 (6mm) either side of the seam line and knot the threads at one end. Seam line Machine gathering stitches How do I press darts? As a rule, darts are first pressed flat, then open or to one side as indicated in the pattern instructions. Normally, vertical darts are pressed towards the center and horizontal darts are pressed downward. Occasionally, the sewing instructions will tell you to slash the dart along the fold line and then press it open. This is done to give a smoother appearance. 2. Gently pull the bobbin threads from one end feeding the fabric evenly down the gathers. 3. Wind the threads in a figure of eight round a pin at the side when the required length is achieved. Gathering stitches 4. Instead of machine stitches a small running stitch can be used especially when a long length is to be gathered. Perfect darts are straight and smooth, not puckered at the ends. The darts on the right and left sides of the garment should have the same placement and length. F2: Gathering Gathering is the process of drawing a given amount of fabric into predetermined, smaller area along one or several stitching lines, to create soft, even folds. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs or yoke, or as ruffles. It is done after construction seams have been stitched, seam-finished and pressed. Seam line Running stitches 9
Other methods of gathering Hand stitching can replace machine stitching for gathering small areas or very delicate fabrics. Use small even running stitches, hand-sew at least two rows for best control. To gather, gently pull unknotted ends of threads. Hand stitching A gathering foot automatically gathers with each machine takes. The longer the stitch, the more closely the fabric will be gathered. Determined amount of fabric needed by measuring a sample before and after gathering. F3: Pleats Pleats are folds in fabric that provide controlled fullness. Pleating may occur as a single pleat, as a cluster, or around an entire garment section. Basically, each pleat is folded along a specific line, generally called the foldline, and the fold aligned with another line, the placement line. Most pleats are formed by continuous piece of fabric onto itself. Pleats can be folded in several different styles; the most common ones are: knife pleat box pleat inverted pleat are illustrated below Pleat folds can be soft or sharp, depending on how they are pressed, but any pleat will hang better if it is folded on the straight grain, at least from the hip down. Foldline Placement line Under fold Pleats Gathering foot Zigzag stitching over a thin, strong cord is useful when a long strip or bulky fabric is to be gathered. Place cord 1/4 above seamline; use widest zigzag stitch over cord to hold it in place. Pull on cord to form gathers. Types of pleats Knife pleats: Have one fold-line and one placement line; all the folds are turned in the same direction. Some garments may have one cluster facing one way and other facing the opposite way. Cord Knife pleats Zigzag stitching 10
Box pleats: Have two foldlines and two placements lines; the two folds of each pleat are turned away one another. The backfolds in box pleats are facing and may or may not meet it is not necessary. Accordion pleats: Are very narrow pleats of uniform width resembling the bellows of an accordion. Front fold stand slightly away from the body, giving flared effect. Best done by a commercial pleater. Box pleats Inverted pleats: Have two foldlines and a common placement line. The two folds of each pleat are turned toward each other and in this case they must meet. The backfolds face away from each other. Inverted pleats Other types of pleating are best done commercially by machines, such as: Pleat with separate underlay: An inverted pleat in appearance, but constructed with separate underlay that forms underside of pleat. Incase place of usual two backfolds, there are two seams. Accordian pleat F4: Tucks A tuck is a stitched fold of fabric that is most often decorative in purpose, but it can also be a shaping device. Each tuck is formed from two stitching lines that are matched and stitched; the fold of the tuck s width is the distance from the fold to the matched lines. The width can vary, as can the space between tucks. Most tucks are stitched on the straight grain, parallel to the fold, and so are uniform in width. Tucks are made on fine fabric and mostly on the right side of fabric. Both hand and machine stitching are used to make tucks. There are three types of tucks: The tucks that meet are called blind tucks Blind tucks Pleat with separate underlay 11
Those with spaced between them are spaced tucks Pressing tucks 1. Press each tuck flat as it was stitched. If pressing from right side, be sure to use a press cloth so as not to mar the fabric. Spaced tucks A very narrow tuck is a pin tuck 2. Then press all tucks in the direction in which they will be worn. To keep the ends of all tucks in position during balance of garment construction, staystitch across them as shown. Pin tuck How to make a tuck 1. Mark the stitching lines of each tuck. Width of tuck is one-half the distance between its stitching lines. Stitching lines 2. Remove pattern. Fold tuck to inside or outside of the garment, according to design. Match the stitching lines and baste in place. Stitch tuck. 12
ATTACHMENTS SAFETY RULES Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe environment, keep the following rules in mind: 1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in separate places, away from your sewing area. 2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing class. You do not want to accidentally step on a pin or needle. 3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before cutting with scissors and carry scissors with the sharp edge pointing towards the floor. When the scissors are not being used, place them on the cutting table, sewing table, or in your sewing box. 4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length of your arm. 5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution before starting to sewing on your fabric. 6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric as you sew and place them in the pin cushion after you use them. NEVER put straight pins or needles in your mouth. 7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright position after use. When using the iron hold it by the handle only. 8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you use the seam ripper (unpicker). 9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler, scissors and pins in the sewing box after using them. 10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher s/trainer s instructions. GLOSSARY Word Basting Bias facing Combination facing Collar Cuff Dart Extended facing Facing Sleeve Placket Shaped facing Stitch Meaning This is a temporary stitch used in the beginning stages of a sewing project. Is a narrow strip of lightweight fabric cut on the bias so that it can be shaped to conform to the curve it will finish. A shaped facing in which both the neckline and armholes are finished by the same facing unit. The part of a garment that encircles the neck. A fold or band at the bottom of a sleeve. A dart is a "V" shaped, stitched fold starting at a certain width at one end and tapering to a point at the other end. A dart creates a curve in the fabric and allows the fabric to conform to the shape of the body. The darts in a garment are what make the garment fit. Is cut as an extension of the garment and then folded back along the edge it finishes. A piece of fabric that is used to conceal the raw edge of the garment and is usually turned to the inside of the garment after being applied. Is the part of a garment which covers the arm, or through which the arm passes or slips. The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together. The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together. A link, loop or knot formed by a threaded needle in sewing. 13
Acknowledgement This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based training model. The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP) in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department for Community Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed in producing the module. We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially the women, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow. 14
p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 fax: (675) 323 0944 The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG EMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)