Textile Test Guide
At New World Textile Testing Laboratory the goal of our staff is to provide You the Customer with premium testing, competitive pricing and complete customer satisfaction. New World tests apparel, industrial, military, outdoor and specialty textile fabrics. Our new laboratory facility allows New World to offer independent testing services to the global textile community. Quality at New World is assured through a combination of experienced and trained professionals as well as the utilization of properly maintained and calibrated equipment. We test to the most current standards published by AATCC, ASTM, Federal Standard 191A, ISO, and JIS. To further assist our customers, New World is now offering consultant-based technical services. We realize technical roadblocks occur within the manufacturing world and both our technical textile team and lab are here to provide solutions to those problems. We offer solutions in dyeing, coating, surface finishing, lamination and overall product development. Please review the enclosed testing brochure and visit our website. If there are any tests or services that you are interested in, but are not listed, please contact Elizabeth Leite at 508-689-1653. We look forward to servicing your testing and consulting needs.
Table of Contents Abrasion Tests Colorfastness Construction & Composition Flammability Laundering & Dimensional Change Performance Tests Page 1 Page 1-2 Page 2 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4-5 Water & Oil Resistance/Absorbency Page 5-6 Accreditations Page 7 Test Method Acronyms: AATCC F.T.M. NFPA ASTM CPAI P.I.A. American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists Federal-STD-191A National Fire Protection Association American Standard Test Methods Camping Products Association International Parachute Industrial Association
Abrasion Tests INFLATED DIAPHRAGM ASTM D 3886 Determines the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics using an inflated diaphragm apparatus. TABER ABRASION ASTM D 3884 Determines abrasion resistance of textile fabrics. WYZENBEEK ABRASION ASTM D 4157 Determines abrasion resistance of textile fabrics. PILLING - RANDOM TUMBLE METHOD ASTM D 3512 Determines the resistance to pilling and any change in fabric appearance. Colorfastness CROCKING AATCC 8 Determines the amount of color transferred by rubbing. FROSTING-SCREEN WIRE METHOD AATCC 119 Determines color change caused by flat abrasion using a screen wire. COLORFASTNESS TO HEAT - DRY SUBLIMATION AATCC 117 Determines the colorfastness to dry heat, including sublimation F.T.M. 5642 for textile fabrics. COLOR MEASUREMENT, INSTRUMENTAL Spectrophotometer This evaluation procedure is used to determine the spectral reflectance curve of an object. The reflected light is measured with a photo diode array to determine the fraction of light reflected by the object. COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING 1A - 106 F AATCC 61 This test method is used for Commercial and Home accelerated 2A - 120 F launderings to evaluate color change and staining. 3A - 180 F COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT These test methods are used to determine the color/shade change of fabrics to light. AATCC 16-OPT 1-(carbon) AATCC 16-OPT 3-(xenon) COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION AATCC 15 Determines the colorfastness of textile fabrics to acid perspiration. Page 1
COLORFASTNESS TO WATER AATCC 107 Determines the colorfastness resistance to water. COLORFASTNESS TO SEA WATER AATCC 106 Determines the colorfastness resistance to sea water. COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION & LIGHT AATCC 125 Determines the effective combination of light and perspiration on the colorfastness of a textile fabric. COLORFASTNESS TO DYE TRANSFER IN STORAGE AATCC 163 Used to evaluate dye transfer under humid conditions while fabric is in storage. * Accelerated option available Construction & Composition Analysis ph, WATER EXTRACT AATCC 81 Determines the ph of aqueous solutions extracted from textiles. F.T.M. 2811 SKEW AND BOW ASTM 3882 Determines bow and skew of filling yarns in woven fabrics. THICKNESS ASTM 1777 Determines the thickness measurement of textile fabrics. THREAD COUNT ASTM 3775 Determines the warp (end) count and filling (pick) count WEIGHT - Oz per Yd2 ASTM 3776 Measures a textile fabrics weight, mass per unit area. WIDTH Measures the width of fabrics. ASTM 3774 Flammability CLOTH - VERTICAL FLAME ASTM 6413 These test methods are used to measure the vertical flame F.T.M. 5903 resistance of textiles. NFPA-701-1989 SMALL SCALE ONLY 701-1989 A vertical test method used to measure flame resistance. CPAI-84 - INITIAL ONLY A vertical test method used to measure flame resistance. CPAI-84 AUTOMOTIVE MVS-302 A horizontal flame test method used in the motor vehicle industry. Page 2
Laundering & Dimensional Change APPEARANCE OF FABRICS AFTER REPEATED HOME LAUNDERING Used to assess the appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings. AATCC 124 DIMENSIONAL CHANGES AATCC 135 Determines the shrinkage of fabrics when subjected to automatic home launderings. * Specify machine cycle, washing temperature and drying procedure Tabel 1 Machine Cycle Wash Temp Drying Procedures Normal / Cotton Delicate Permanent Press 80 ± F 105 ± F 120 ± F 140 ± F Line Dry Tumble: Cotton, Delicate, or Perm. Press Drip Dry Screen Dry DIMENSIONAL CHANGES IN COMMERCIAL LAUNDERING OF WOVEN AND KNITTED FABRICS EXCEPT WOOL Washing Conditions: 1c or VIc (only) Determines the dimensional shrinkage in fabrics when laundered to procedures commonly used in commercial laundering. DIMENSIONAL CHANGES Determines the dimensional shrinkage in fabrics. *Specify: Cotton or Wool procedure SKEWNESS CHANGE IN FABRIC AND GARMENT TWIST RESULTING FROM AUTOMATIC HOME LAUNDERING Determines the change in skewness of a fabric or the twist of a garment when subjected to repeated automatic home laundering procedures. * Specify machine cycle, washing temperature and drying procedure See Table 1 DIMENSIONAL CHANGE OF GARMENTS AFTER HOME LAUNDERING Determines the shrinkage of a garment when subjected to home launderings. * Specify machine cycle, washing temperature and drying procedure See Table 1 AATCC 96 F.T.M. 5556 AATCC 179 AATCC 150 Page 3
Performance Tests ADHESION F.T.M. 5970 Measures the bond strength of coated or laminated fabrics. AIR PERMEABILITY ASTM 737 This test method is used for the measurement of air permeability. BLOCKING F.T.M. 5872 This test method is intended to measure the coating to coating resistance to release. BREAKING STRENGTH These test methods are used for determining the breaking strength and elongation using the grab or modified grab test. BREAKING STRENGTH These test methods are used for determining the tensile strength and elongation using the cut strip or the ravel strip procedure. BURSTING STRENGTH These test methods are used to determine the bursting strength with a ball burst apparatus. MELTING POINT These test methods are used to measure the melting point of textile fabrics or yarns. RESISTANCE TO LOW TEMPERATURE (roller test) Determines the resistance of coated cloth to low temperature. SEAM SLIPPAGE Determines the resistance to slippage of warp & filling yarns using a standard seam. SOIL RELEASE Assess a fabric s ability to release oily stains during home laundering. STIFFNESS TEST Clark This test method is intended for determining the flex-stiffness of cloth. STIFFNESS TEST Tinius Olsen This test method is intended for determining flex-stiffness of cloth by cantilever bending of the cloth. TEAR RESISTANCE Elmendorf Method Measures the force required to tear the fabric using an Elmendorf apparatus. ASTM 5034 F.T.M. 5100 ASTM 5035 F.T.M. 5104 ASTM 3787 F.T.M. 1534 ASTM 276 F.T.M. 1534 F.T.M. 5874 ASTM 434 AATCC 130 F.T.M. 5204 F.T.M. 5202 ASTM 1424 Page 4
TEAR RESISTANCE Trapezoid Method Measures the tearing strength of textile fabrics by the trapezoid procedure. TEAR RESISTANCE Tongue Method Measures the tearing strength of a fabric by the tongue tear procedure using a (CRE) tensile machine. WEATHERING PROCEDURE - XENON METHOD Determines the strength of parachute fabrics when subjected to 48 hours of xenon light exposure. WEATHERING CARBON ARC APPARATUS This test method can be used to measure the effect of light on a fabric. *Exposure conditions must be specified WEATHERING XENON ARC APPARATUS This test method can be used to measure the effect of light on a fabric. * Exposure conditions must be specified ASTM 5587 ASTM 2261 P.I.A. SPECS ASTM G23 ASTM G155 Water & Oil Resistance/Absorbency WATER RESISTANCE Spray Test Determines the fabrics water resistance to wetting, with or without a water repellent finish. AQUEOUS LIQUID REPELLENCY Determines a fabrics resistance to wetting by a series of water/alcohol solutions. WATER RESISTANCE Hydrostatic Pressure Test Measures the resistance of water penetration under under hydrostatic pressure. (cm). WATER RESISTANCE Mullen Test Measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure. (psi) WATER RESISTANCE Impact Penetration Test Measures the resistance of vertical water penetration. WATER RESISTANCE Rain Test Measures the resistance of water impact penetration, similar to rain. AATCC 22 AATCC 193 AATCC 127 F.T.M. 5514 ASTM 751 F.T.M. 5512 AATCC 42 AATCC 35 Page 5
DYNAMIC ABSORPTION Water Repellency Test Determines the water absorbed by the fabric to dynamic conditions. OIL REPELLENCY Hydrocarbon Resistance Test Used to evaluate a fabrics resistance to wetting by liquid Hydrocarbons. WATER VAPOR TRANSMISSION Designed to determine both upright and inverted water vapor transmission through materials. AATCC 70 F.T.M. 5500 AATCC 118 ASTM E96 B or BW Page 6
Accreditations UL Certification Certified Laboratory for P.F.D s (under C.T.D.P.). DoD Approved Military Testing Laboratory International Organization for Standardization ISO 17025 - August 2007 Additional tests may be available upon request Pricing is available upon request Page 7
Contact Information: Elizabeth Leite Laboratory Director Email: LLeite@NWorld.us Phone: 508.689.1653 206 Globe Mills Avenue Fall River MA 02724 U.S.A. www.nworld.us