Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya

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Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya Western Nepal p248 Annapurna Region p124 Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu p196 #_ Kathmandu p46 Everest Region p62 Eastern Nepal p218 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown, Stuart Butler

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD HADYNYAH/GETTY IMAGES FENG WEI PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES Welcome to the Nepal Himalaya.... 4 Trekking in Nepal Himalayas Map.... 6 Nepal & the 2015 Earthquakes... 8 The Nepal Himalaya s Top 9.... 10 Need to Know.... 16 If You Like...... 18 Planning Your Trek.... 21 Clothing & Equipment.... 36 Trekking Safely....40 Regions at a Glance.... 43 A TIBETAN WOMAN PRAYING, MUSTANG P180 GOKYO RI P96 KATHMANDU...46 History.... 48 Sights.... 48 Activities.... 50 Festivals & Events...52 Sleeping....52 Eating.... 54 Drinking & Nightlife.... 56 Shopping.... 58 Information.... 58 Getting There & Away.... 60 Getting Around.... 61 EVEREST REGION... 62 Everest Base Camp Trek... 68 Gokyo Trek.... 91 Three Passes Trek...97 Shivalaya to Lukla Trek... 104 Other Treks.... 116 Numbur Cheese Circuit.... 116 Dudh Kunda Pikey Cultural Trail.... 116 Towns & Facilities.... 117 Lukla.... 117 Shivalaya.... 119 Namche Bazaar... 119 ANNAPURNA REGION... 124 Annapurna Himal.... 129 Annapurna Panorama Trek...129 Khopra Ridge Trek....133 Annapurna Sanctuary Trek...136 Annapurna Circuit Trek...144 Nar-Phu... 174 Nar-Phu Trek.... 175 Mustang....180 Mustang Trek...184 Towns & Facilities.... 192 Pokhara....192 Naya Pul & Birethanti....193 Besi Sahar....194 Jomsom.... 194 LANGTANG, HELAMBU & MANASLU... 196 Langtang Valley...199 Langtang Valley Trek....199 Ganja La Trek... 204 Gosainkund Trek.... 205 Helambu.... 208 Helambu Circuit Trek.... 208 Manaslu Himal... 211 Around Manaslu Trek.... 211 Towns & Facilities.... 216 Dhunche............... 216 Syabrubesi...216 Thulo Bharkhu... 217 Sundarijal... 217 Thimbu.... 217 Arughat... 217 Gorkha.... 217 EASTERN NEPAL... 218 Arun Valley & Makalu.... 220 Lukla to Tumlingtar Trek... 220 Makalu Base Camp Trek... 229 Kanchenjunga....233 Kanchenjunga North Trek.... 234 Kanchenjunga South Trek....241 Other Treks....245

Contents UNDERSTAND Pathibhara & Limbu Cultural Trail.... 245 Towns & Facilities....245 Tumlingtar.... 245 Khandbari... 245 Biratnagar.... 246 Dharan... 246 Hile.... 246 Taplejung....247 Basantpur.... 247 WESTERN NEPAL...248 Rara National Park.... 251 Rara Lake Trek...251 Dolpo...255 Jumla to Dunai Trek.... 258 Kagmara La Trek...261 Phoksumdo Lake Trek... 262 Phoksumdo Lake via Do Tarap Trek... 264 Beni to Dolpo Trek.... 269 Inner Dolpo....275 Phoksumdo Lake to Shey Gompa Trek....275 Humla.... 277 Limi Valley Trek.... 279 Other Treks....285 Shey Gompa to Jomsom.... 285 Around Dhaulagiri.... 286 Guerrilla Trek.... 286 Saipal Base Camp Trek... 286 Towns & Facilities.... 286 Nepalganj.... 286 Jumla.... 287 Dunai... 287 Beni...................288 Simikot....288 Nepal Today....290 History of Trekking... 292 History of Nepal....294 People & Culture...306 Environment & Wildlife.... 314 SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A Z.... 324 Transport.... 337 Health....345 Language.... 352 Glossary.... 356 Index.... 361 Map Legend.... 375 Post-Earthquake Update Lonely Planet s Nepal authors updated the 10th edition of this Trekking in the Nepal Himalayas guidebook shortly before the first tremor. We have updated our coverage since the disaster using local sources, but with some areas off-limits to trekkers and more landslides expected in the 2015 monsoon, it will be some time before the full extent of the damage becomes clear, particularly in rural areas. For all the treks in this book, you should seek local advice before setting off to make sure that all stages are open and that food and accommodation is available for all overnight stops. If you discover anything that is incorrect or out of date in this guidebook, please let us know via the following link: www.lonelyplanet.com/contact/guidebook_feedback/new.

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 375 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Trekking Route Alternative Trekking Route Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Bradley Mayhew Coordinating author; Kathmandu; Everest Region; Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu; Eastern Nepal A self-professed mountain junkie, Bradley has been trekking in the Himalayas for 20 years now, from north Pakistan and Zanskar to Tibet and Bhutan. For previous editions of this guide he s trekked in Nar-Phu, Dolpo, Langtang and the Annapurnas. For this edition he concentrated on the Everest region and Manaslu. Bradley is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet guides to Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, and Central Asia, as well as the Odyssey guide to Uzbekistan. He has lectured on Central Asia to the Royal Geographical Society and was the subject of two Arte/ SWR documentary series, one retracing the route of Marco Polo, the other hiking Europe s ten best long-distance trails. See what he s currently up to at www.bradleymayhew.blogspot.com. Lindsay Brown Annapurna Region; Western Nepal The Nepal Himalaya is a favourite destination for Lindsay, a keen trekker and former conservation biologist. Lindsay first visited Nepal over 25 years ago and has spent the last decade or so regularly visiting the country to hit the trails. He has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled across many a mountain pass while contributing to Lonely Planet s Bhutan, India, Nepal, and Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway guides, among many others. Stuart Butler Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu; Eastern Nepal Stuart first travelled to Nepal over twenty years ago and has been a frequent visitor to both Nepal and the greater Himalaya region ever since. From the far north of Norway to the mountains of Yemen and the forests of the Congo, he has walked in many mountain and wilderness areas around the world. Today he lives with his wife and young son and daughter on the beaches of southwest France, right at the foot of the beautiful Pyrenees mountains. He s the author of Lonely Planet s Hiking in Spain guide. His website is www.stuart butlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 10th edition Jan 2016 ISBN 978 1 74179 272 0 Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.