STEPAN SULFATE-FREE SURFACTANT SOLUTIONS

STEPAN SULFATE-FREE SURFACTANT SOLUTIONS Innovative Chemical Solutions for a Cleaner, Healthier, More Energy Efficient World

STEPAN SULFATE-FREE SURFACTANT SOLUTIONS The sulfate-free trend has emerged from beauty salons into the mainstream. Originally meant to convey resistance to color-fading on dyed hair, the sulfate-free concept has grown to include low skin irritation claims in body washes and other cleansing products. The most widely-used sulfate-free claims in the Personal Care market are: Less color loss on dyed hair even with repeated shampooing Less stripping of natural oils from skin and hair and gentle to skin, scalp and hair There are challenges when formulating with sulfate-free surfactants including: Foam volume tends to be lower than sulfated systems Foam character is denser compared to sulfate surfactants Viscosity building may be different from sulfate surfactants Stepan Sulfate-Free Solutions is a compendium of sulfate-free surfactant formulations for shampoo, body wash, liquid hand soap, and facial cleansing applications that address the challenges noted above. As you navigate through this guide, you may discover the solutions to your sulfate-free formulation needs.

STEPAN SULFATE-FREE FORMULARY INDEX SHAMPOO Economy Sulfate-Free Shampoo (No. 1112) High-Foaming, Premium Sulfate-Free Shampoo (No. 1158) Naturally-Derived, Color Care, Sulfate-Free Shampoo (No. 1189) NEW! Pearlescent, Sulfate-Free, Conditioning Shampoo (No. 1111) BODY WASH Naturally-Derived, 1,4-Dioxane Free, Mild Baby Wash (No. 1164) Naturally-Derived, Sulfate-Free, Moisturizing Shampoo and Body Wash (No. 1119) Scrubbing Shower Gel (No. 1012) HAND SOAP Sulfate-Free Hand Wash (No. 1065) Sulfate-Free, Moisturizing, Gentle Foaming Hand Soap (No. 1179) FACIAL CLEANSER Clear Face Wash with 2% Salicylic Acid (No. 1072) Sulfate- Free Facial Cleanser (No. 1190) NEW! Departure from Stepan s recommended procedures as well as the addition of fragrance, dye, and preservative, not defined in the formulation, could result in a deviation in the appearance, viscosity, and ph of the formulation. Associated claims may be based on Stepan product chemistry or evaluation independent of the formulation. Additional formulations are available from Stepan Company. Please contact Stepan s U.S. Technical Service or visit Stepan s website at www.stepan.com. Formulation numbers can be used to reference the formulation on Stepan s website or when contacting Stepan s U.S. Technical Service at techserv@stepan.com or 1-800-745-7837.

ECONOMY SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO (No. 1112) ALPHA-STEP PC-48 AMPHOSOL CDB Special Sodium chloride Fragrance & dye Citric acid, 25% solution or Sodium hydroxide to 13.5 10.0 1.5 Viscosity Adjuster Additives Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone 0.1 Preservative Procedure: In a suitable container, add and turn on the agitator. Add ALPHA-STEP PC-48 and AMPHOSOL CDB Special and mix until homogeneous. Add Sodium chloride to adjust viscosity. Add fragrance and dye while mixing. Adjust ph with Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide. Add Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone. Appearance at 25 C Clear viscous liquid ph, as is 5.0-5.5 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 3,500-6,200 Economy shampoo Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived Clear Formulation Highlights: This formulation uses a high-foaming surfactant, ALPHA-STEP PC-48. The addition of AMPHOSOL CDB Special provides viscosity building. The total low surfactant actives plus the use of AMPHOSOL CDB Special make for an economy-type, mild cleansing product. Since all ingredients are in liquid form, the formulation can be made easily at room temperature without the additional processing time required for heating ingredients.

HIGH-FOAMING, PREMIUM SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO (No. 1158) STEPAN-MILD LSB LATHANOL LAL Powder ALPHA-STEP PC-48 AMPHOSOL HCG STEPAN-MILD GCC Citric acid Fragrance, dye, & preservative Sodium chloride to 26.7 1.4 5.3 13.1 1.0 Foam Booster, Thickener Additives Viscosity Adjuster Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge. While agitating, heat to 55 C-60 C then add STEPAN-MILD LSB and LATHANOL LAL Powder. Mix well until solubilized. Cool down to 40 C-45 C. Add ALPHA-STEP PC-48 and AMPHOSOL HCG, while continuing agitation. Add STEPAN-MILD GCC. Mix well. Cool batch to 25 C. Adjust ph with Citric acid. Add fragrance, dye, and preservative. Adjust viscosity with Sodium chloride, if necessary. Appearance at 25 C Clear liquid ph, as is 5.5-5.8 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 4,100-4,500 Premium shampoo Amide free Naturally-derived Clear High-foaming Formulation Highlights: This formulation uses a mild, sulfate-free blend, STEPAN-MILD LSB, as the primary surfactant. Addition of LATHANOL LAL Powder, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, AMPHOSOL HCG, and STEPAN-MILD GCC creates a medium viscosity product that yields a delightfully rich, creamy lather on hair and scalp. This formulation can be pearlized or opacified by adding appearancemodifying agents such as Glycol monostearate.

NATURALLY-DERIVED, COLOR CARE, SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO (No. 1189) LATHANOL LAL Powder AMPHOSOL HCG AMPHOSOL 2CSF ALPHA-STEP PC-48 STEPAN-MILD GCC Citric acid Fragrance, dye, & preservative to 7.0 12.9 6.9 7.8 0.3 Foam Booster, Thickener Additives Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, add and heat to 60 C-65 C. Add LATHANOL LAL Powder, and mix until completely dissolved. Cool to 42 C-45 C. Add AMPHOSOL HCG, AMPHOSOL 2CSF, and ALPHA-STEP PC-48. Mix until homogeneous. Add STEPAN-MILD GCC and mix until clear. Adjust ph with Citric acid, if necessary. Add fragrance, dye and, preservative while mixing. Appearance at 25 C Clear viscous liquid ph, as is, 5.8-6.0 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 12,000 Anti-fading shampoo Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived Clear Formulation Highlights: In colorimetric and sensory panel testing using multiple coloring systems, this formulation showed less fading of color on dyed hair compared to a commercial clarifying shampoo, a commercial anti-fade color care system, and a commercial mild baby shampoo. It is comparable to the market leading anti-fade shampoo in foaming and conditioning properties. This formulation utilizes naturally-derived, mild, sulfate-free surfactants.

PEARLESCENT, SULFATE-FREE, CONDITIONING SHAMPOO (No. 1111) ALPHA-STEP PC-48 AMPHOSOL CDB Special STEPAN-MILD L3 STEPAN SLL-FB Glycol monostearate Polyquaternium-7 Hydrolyzed collagen Linium usitatissium extract Panthenol Citric acid, 25% solution or Sodium hydroxide Fragrance Dye Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone to 27.0 15.0 0.5 0.5 0.3 2.8 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.1 0.1 Conditioning Agent Foam Booster Pearlescent Agent Conditioning Agent Conditioning Agent Conditioning Agent Conditioning Agent Additive Additive Preservative Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge and begin heating. Add ALPHA-STEP PC-48, AMPHOSOL CDB Special, STEPAN-MILD L3, STEPAN SLL-FB, and Glycol monostearate using moderate agitation. Heat to 60 C-65 C. Mix for at least 30 minutes until all materials dissolve. Begin cooling. At 40 C, add Polyquaternium-7, Hydrolyzed collagen, Linium usitatissium extract, and Panthenol with continued mixing. Cool batch to 25 C. Adjust ph with Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide. Add fragrance, dye, and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone, as desired. Appearance at 25 C Pearlescent viscous liquid ph, as is 5.5-6.5 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 5,500-6,000 Conditioning shampoo Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived Pearlescent Formulation Highlights: This formulation uses naturally-derived, sulfate-free surfactants, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, AMPHOSOL CDB Special, STEPAN-MILD L3, and STEPAN SLL-FB, to create a medium viscosity cleansing product with good foaming and mild hair and skin conditioning properties. Glycol monostearate is added to create a pearlescent appearance.

NATURALLY-DERIVED, 1,4-DIOXANE FREE, MILD BABY WASH (No. 1164) ALPHA-STEP PC-48 LATHANOL LAL Powder AMPHOSOL HCG STEPAN-MILD GCC Citric acid Fragrance, dye, & preservative Sodium chloride to 13.2 10.0 6.5 0.7 Foam Booster, Thickener Additives Viscosity Adjuster Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge. While agitating, heat to 55 C-60 C. Add ALPHA-STEP PC-48 and LATHANOL LAL Powder. Mix well until solubilized. Cool to 40 C-45 C. Add AMPHOSOL HCG, while continuing agitation. Add STEPAN-MILD GCC. Mix well. Cool batch to 25 C. Adjust ph with Citric acid. Add fragrance, dye, and preservative with mixing. Adjust viscosity with Sodium chloride, if necessary. Appearance at 25 C Clear liquid ph, as is 5.5-5.8 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 4,500-4,800 Baby wash Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived Clear Formulation Highlights: This sulfate-free baby wash incorporates naturally-derived ingredients, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, LATHANOL LAL Powder, AMPOSOL HCG, and STEPAN-MILD GCC, that do not contain 1,4-Dioxane. In the bath, expect creamy lather that rinses easily. This formulation may be used on babies and toddlers hair and skin or for a liquid cleansing application where mildness is desired.

NATURALLY-DERIVED, SULFATE-FREE MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO AND BODY WASH (No. 1119) STEPAN-MILD LSB AMPHOSOL CS-50 STEPAN-MILD GCC STEPAN-MILD L3 Panthenol Citric acid, 50% solution or Sodium hydroxide, 50% solution to 40.0 6.0 0.5 0.5 0.5 Foam booster, Thickener Emollient Conditioning Agent Sodium chloride Fragrance, dye, & preservative Viscosity Adjuster Additives Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge. Start heating water to 40 C-45 C. Add STEPAN-MILD LSB, AMPHOSOL CS-50, STEPAN-MILD GCC, and STEPAN-MILD L3 using moderate agitation. Mix for at least 30 minutes until everything is completely dissolved. Add Panthenol with continued mixing. Cool the batch to 25 C. Adjust ph with Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide, if necessary. Adjust viscosity with Sodium chloride, if necessary. Add fragrance, dye, and preservative, as desired. Appearance at 25 C Clear viscous liquid ph, as is, 5.0-5.5 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 3,000-7,000 All-in-one cleansing product Amide free Naturally-derived Clear Formulation Highlights: This formulation pairs Stepan s sulfate-free blend, STEPAN-MILD LSB, with AMPHOSOL CS-50 to create a cleansing product mild enough to use on hair and skin. STEPAN-MILD GCC and STEPAN-MILD L3 add a velvety lather texture and leave a non-tacky, soft after-feel to hair and skin.

SCRUBBING SHOWER GEL (No. 1012) Xantham gum Glycerin STEPAN-MILD PCL AMPHOSOL HCG Polyquaternium-7 Crushed apricot seed Walnut shell powder Sodium chloride Citric acid, 50% solution or Sodium hydroxide, 50% solution Fragrance, dye, & preservative to 0.8 1.5 55.0 9.6 3.0 0.2 0.2 Thickener Humectant Conditioning Agent Abrasive Abrasive Viscosity Adjuster Additives Procedure: Charge vessel with. Start agitation. Slowly sprinkle in Xantham gum. Mix until completely dispersed. Add Glycerin, STEPAN-MILD PCL, AMPHOSOL HCG, Crushed apricot seed and Walnut shell powder. Mix until homogeneous. Adjust ph with Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide. Add fragrance, dye, and preservative. Appearance at 25 C Translucent viscous liquid ph, as is 5.0-6.0 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 10,000-12,000 Scrubbing body wash Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived High viscosity Formulation Highlights: This formulation pairs Stepan s sulfate-free blend, STEPAN-MILD PCL, with AMPHOSOL HCG for a high viscosity shower gel. It is designed to provide deep cleansing and exfoliate skin based on the addition of abrasive ingredients (Crushed apricot seed and Walnut shell powder) which may leave skin looking fresh and glowing.

SULFATE-FREE HAND WASH (No. 1065) to ALPHA-STEP HWC Fragrance, dye, & preservative 35.0 Cleansing Agent, Blend Additives Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide Sodium chloride Viscosity Adjuster ALPHA-STEP HWC INCI Name: Sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate (and) Disodium 2-sulfolaurate (and) Cocamidopropyl betaine (and) Lauramide MEA (and) Cetrimonium chloride (and) PEG-150 distearate Procedure: Into a suitable vessel equipped with mixing capabilities, combine and ALPHA-STEP HWC, fragrance, dye, and preservative. Mix until homogeneous. Adjust to desired ph with Citric acid or Sodium hydroxide. Adjust viscosity with Sodium chloride, if desired. Appearance at 25 C Clear liquid ph, as is, 5.0-6.0 Viscosity at 25 C, cps Water thin No fuss hand wash Clear Non-stringing Appropriate for Air Foamer bottles (without Sodium chloride) Formulation Highlights: With ALPHA-STEP HWC, all you have to do is add water, fragrance, dye, and preservative, adjust to desired ph and viscosity, and the product is ready to go! ALPHA-STEP HWC is a mild liquid wash concentrate blend that can be used in shampoo, body wash, facial cleanser, and hand wash. This formulation is suitable for pump and foamer applications; from economy to premium. Benefits include creamy stable foam and excellent skin after-feel.

SULFATE-FREE, MOISTURIZING, GENTLE FOAMING HAND SOAP (No. 1179) Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose Glycerin ALPHA-STEP PC-48 AMPHOSOL HCG STEPAN-MILD L3 Fragrance Citric acid, 50% solution Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) methylisothiazolinone to 0.1 0.5 16.0 3.5 1.5 0.3 0.1 Thickener Humectant Emollient Additive Preservative Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge and begin mixing. Sprinkle in Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose. Mix until dispersed. Add Glycerin, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, and AMPHOSOL HCG. Mix well. Start heating to 45 C. Add STEPAN-MILD L3. Mix until clear. Add fragrance. Mix until clear. Cool to 25 C. Adjust ph with Citric acid. Add Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone. Appearance at 25 C Clear liquid ph, as is 5.0-6.0 Viscosity at 25 C, cps Water thin Low viscosity hand soap Amide free EO/PO free 1,4-Dioxane free Naturally-derived Clear Formulation Highlights: This sulfate-free formulation combines a high-foaming primary surfactant, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, with AMPHOSOL HCG and STEPAN-MILD L3 to make a low viscosity solution. This formulation yields instant foaming when dispensed from a pump. Skin is left feeling soft from the moisturizing benefits of STEPAN-MILD L3.

CLEAR FACE WASH WITH 2% SALICYLIC ACID (No. 1072) Propylene glycol BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG-K STEPAN-MILD L3 Salicylic acid PEG-150 distearate Sodium hydroxide, 50% solution Sodium chloride Fragrance, dye & preservative to 2.0 26.0 2.0 2.0 1.5 Solvent, Humectant Active Thickener Viscosity Adjuster Additives Procedure: In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, charge, Propylene glycol, and BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG-K. Start heating to 45 C-50 C with mixing. Add STEPAN-MILD L3 with agitation. Continue heating to 45 C-50 C; mix until clear. Add Salicylic acid with agitation; mix until clear. Add PEG-150 distearate with agitation; mix until clear. Begin cooling to room temperature with agitation. Adjust ph with Sodium hydroxide. Adjust viscosity with Sodium chloride. Add fragrance, dye, and preservative, if needed. Appearance at 25 C Clear viscous liquid ph, as is 4.3-4.6 Viscosity at 25 C, cps 13,400 Low-pH Salicylic acid face wash Clear Amide free Formulation Highlights: This formulation is based on BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG-K, a sulfate-free surfactant stable at a low ph (4.5). STEPAN-MILD L3 provides skin conditioning softness and assists in the solubilization of Salicylic acid.

SULFATE-FREE FACIAL CLEANSER (No. 1190) STEPAN-MILD LSB AMPHOSOL CG-UN Hypoallergenic perfume Citric acid Potassium(E-E)-hexa-2.4 dienoate and Sodium benzoate to 16.0 19.4 0.2 1.2 Additive Preservative STEPAN-MILD GCC 0.5 Foam Booster, Thickener, Skin-Feel Enhancer Procedure: Into a suitable vessel equipped with mixing capabilities, combine, STEPAN-MILD LSB, AMPHOSOL CG-UN and Hypoallergenic perfume. Mix until homogeneous. Adjust ph with Citric acid. Add Potassium(E-E)-hexa-2.4 dienoate and Sodium benzoate. Add STEPAN-MILD GCC and stir until clear. Appearance at 25 C Clear liquid ph, as is 5.0-5.5 Viscosity at 25 C, cps Water thin Pump foamer face wash Amide free Naturally-derived Clear Dermatologically-tested Formulation Highlights: This non-irritating facial cleanser combines sulfate-free blend, STEPAN-MILD LSB, with AMPHOSOL CG-UN to create a clear, low-viscosity solution suitable for foamer packaging. STEPAN-MILD GCC adds viscosity and leaves a soft after-feel to skin. This formula has been dermatologically-tested and shown to be non-irritating.

GLOSSARY BIORENEWABLE CARBON INDEX (BCI): Stepan Company s Biorenewable Carbon Index (BCI) provides you with a single value based on the percent carbon derived from a biorenewable resource. Biorenewable is defined by Stepan as originating from animal, plant or marine material and is calculated based on the number of biorenewable carbons divided by the total number of carbons in the entire molecule. The calculation is based on the idealized molecule represented on Stepan s Technical Product Bulletin. Stepan s BCI can be found at www.stepan.com or contacting Stepan s U.S. Technical Service at techserv@stepan.com or 1-800-745-7837. EO/PO FREE 1,4-DIOXANE FREE: Based on the chemistry, there is no source of Ethylene oxide or Propylene oxide. 1,4-Dioxane would not form because Ethylene oxide is not used in the manufacture of these products. NATURALLY-DERIVED: Stepan defines as derived from biorenewable resource originating from animal, plant or marine feedstock. All Stepan surfactants used in formulations labeled as naturally-derived have a minimum of 50% biorenewable carbon content (based on Stepan s BCI calculation). Other ingredients were not evaluated. SULFATE-FREE: There is no industry cosmetic guideline or regulatory definition for "sulfate-free. Stepan defines a product to be sulfate free if it does not contain Alcohol sulfate or Alcohol ether sulfate as per INCI nomenclature. This definition does not include the inorganic sulfates, e.g. Sodium sulfates, used as processing aids or formed as a residual impurity or by-product. ZEIN SCORE: The amount of Zein protein solubilized by a given surfactant compared to the amount solubilized by Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), a surfactant used in Personal Care products (the Zein Score for SLS is 100%). The less protein solubilized, the milder the surfactant.

STEPAN S SULFATE-FREE SURFACTANTS STEPAN TRADE NAME INCI NAME ACTIVES, % FORM AT 25 C ZEIN SCORE SHAKE FOAM WITHOUT OIL, (ml) Anionic ALPHA-STEP PC-48 Sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate (and) Disodium 2-sulfolaurate 39 68 275 BIO-TERGE AS-40 Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate 39 75 500 LATHANOL LAL Powder Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 65 Powder 55 375 STEPAN-MILD LSB Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (and) Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 25 42 413 STEPAN-MILD PCL Sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate (and) Disodium 2-sulfolaurate (and) Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 23 61 448 STEPAN-MILD SL3-BA Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 32 44 370 STEPAN SLL-FB Sodium lauroyl lactylate 100 Solid 51 370 Amphoteric AMPHOSOL 1C Sodium cocoamphoacetate 37 7 340 AMPHOSOL 2C Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 38 13 325 SHAKE FOAM WITH OIL, (ml) 250 350 343 373 430 335 335 220 305 BCI CMC (mg/l) 94 177 0 301 86 131 64 105 90 65 55 43 100 143 68 34 62 48 SURFACE TENSION (mn/m) 26 31 23 23 25 28 35 30 32

AMPHOSOL 2CSF Disodium cocoamphodipropionate 39 (solids) AMPHOSOL CDB Special Cetyl betaine 30 AMPHOSOL CS-50 Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine 50 (solids) AMPHOSOL HCA Cocamidopropyl betaine 30 AMPHOSOL HCG Cocamidopropyl betaine 30 Nonionic STEPAN-MILD GCC Glyceryl caprylate/caprate 100 STEPAN-MILD L3 Lauryl lactyl lactate 100 STEPAN 745 GC PEG/PPG-6/2 glyceryl cocoate 100 Blend ALPHA-STEP HWC See Formulation No. 1065 34 * Testing conducted using 0.2% of 40% Solids - Not applicable Additional sulfate-free products are available from Stepan. Please visit Stepan s website at www.stepan.com. to soft paste 16 11 22 14 13 30 355 325 320 370 350 345* 225 170 150 135 250 210* 57 78 59 64 64 100 100 67 78 43 20 30 16 17 152 31 28 31 32 37 32 28 36

April 2013 2013 Stepan Company. All rights reserved. Disclaimer: Nothing contained herein grants or extends a license, expressed or implied, in connection with patents, issued or pending, of the manufacturer or others. The information contained herein is based on the manufacturer s own study and the work of others. The manufacturer makes no warranties, expressed or implied, as to the accuracy, completeness, or adequacy of the information contained herein. The manufacturer shall not be liable (regardless of fault) to the vendee s employees, or anyone for any direct, indirect, special or consequential damages arising out of or in connection with the accuracy, completeness adequacy or furnishing of such information. ALPHA-STEP, AMPHOSOL, BIO-TERGE, LATHANOL, STEPAN, and STEPAN-MILD, are registered trademarks of Stepan Company. Innovative Chemical Solutions for a Cleaner, Healthier, More Energy Efficient World