Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design

Project Title: Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design Project No: 134124-LLP-1-2007-1-RO-LEONARDO-LMP Agreement No.: 2007-3111/001-001 LE3-MULPRO Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design Common Curriculum This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

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CONTENT Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design as a Model Development of Competence Based Curriculum Part I Foot Lesson 1.1. Knowledge on Foot Anatomy Applied to Footwear Design and Pattern Making Lesson 1.2. Knowledge on Foot Biomechanics Applied to Footwear Design and Pattern Making Part II- Footwear Lesson 2.1. Materials Used for Footwear Products Lesson 2.2. Footwear: Structure and Functions Lesson 2.3. Lasts for Footwear Industry Lesson 2.4. Footwear Technology Lesson 2.5. Technological Allowances for Pattern Making Part III- Measurements and Tools Lesson 3.1. Measuring the Foot - Foot Anthropometrics Lesson 3.2. Measurement Systems 5 6 8 8 8 10 10 12 14 16 17 19 19 21 3

Lesson 3.3. Tools for Pattern Making Part IV- Design and Pattern Making Lesson 4.1. Principles and Elements of Design Applied to Footwear Lesson 4.2. Basic Stages in Producing Footwear Patterns From 3D Design Lesson 4.3. Producing Standard Forme of the Last Lesson 4.4. Producing Design Standard (Master Pattern) Lesson 4.5. Pattern Making for Women s Court Shoe Lesson 4.6. Pattern Making for Men s Casual Shoe (Oxford, Derby) Lesson 4.7. Pattern Making for Children s Shoe Lesson 4.8. Pattern Making for Loafers Lesson 4.9. Pattern Making for Trainer/ Sport Shoe Lesson 4.10. Pattern Making for Women s Sandals Lesson 4.11. Pattern Making for Children s Boots Lesson 4.12. Pattern Making for Women High Boots Lesson 4.13. Producing Lining Patterns Lesson 4.14. Elements for Designing Bottom Components 22 24 24 26 28 30 32 34 38 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 4

VIRTUAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR SHOE DESIGN AS A MODEL The rapidly changing technologies, as well as the innovative e-learning teaching methods require for adapted modules for lifelong training that keeps continuously up to date with the relevant developments of the European footwear industry. The Virtual Training Centre for Shoe Design is an interactive platform, a meeting point for policy-makers, social-partners, practitioners, researchers and all those with an interest in footwear design field of vocational education and training. Experts in the field can share and exchange knowledge and experience with associates within and outside the European Union. The project s scientific and pedagogic objectives are in tune with the main priority in Lifelong Learning Programme. Through the various research and development projects, partners have developed training materials for footwear design. These materials have to be compared between involved partners in order to get common curricula to be share with future users at a European level. The innovative e-content, developed within the VTC-Shoe project, can easily be translated to various languages. 5

DEVELOPMENT OF COMPETENCE BASED CURRICULUM Recognizing competencies and skills needed in footwear industry and anticipating their development stand for a complex mission given several socio-economical factors, which must be taken into consideration. The stakeholders (VET schools, universities, employers, professional associations etc.) have to monitor this identification taking place at various levels: 1) deciding the overall competences development plan necessary for a successful business strategy, action that should be taken at the highest managerial level; 2) defining the new competence needs through involvement of employers and employees; 3) elaborating specific competences development plan; 4) developing learning environment. The VTC-Shoe project attempted to design the competency-curriculum for VET under the area of a Virtual Training Centre. The study research was conducted in order to identify and explore the usefulness of the questionnaire tool in finding a suitable presentation form for a competence-based curriculum. The sampling method based on convenience and targeted colleagues, former students, business contacts from the footwear industry and their acquaintances, from Romania, Greece and Turkey. The questionnaire was developed based on planned curricula structure and on preliminary interviews with some experts from footwear industry and potential trainers and trainees. After its development with the partners in the project, it was applied on VTC-Shoe content development, and modified accordingly with the feedback obtained from piloting courses. 6

The curriculum and the content developed based on this curriculum stand on four parts. The first part is about Foot. The second part is dedicated to Footwear. The third part deals with Measurements and Tools. The last part is about Design and Pattern Making. 7

PART I FOOT LESSON 1.1. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT ANATOMY APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit aims to identify and describe the main structure and functions of the foot in order to apply this knowledge to designing the footwear. TOPICS Identifying foot structure and its functions Identifying problems related to footwear CONTENT 1. Describe the structure and functions of the foot 2. The main foot structures: muscles, bones, joints, nervous system 3. Foot problems related to footwear. Structural and functional disorders of the foot. LESSON 1.2. KNOWLEDGE ON FOOT BIOMECHANICS APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit aims to identify biomechanics parameters and to offer knowledge about gait analysis computer techniques 8

TOPICS Managing and collecting measurements of foot biomechanics parameters with computer techniques Gait analysis is performed to obtain baseline data of consumer s walk pattern CONTENT 1. Foot biomechanics 2. Gait analysis 9

PART II- FOOTWEAR LESSON 2.1. MATERIALS USED FOR FOOTWEAR PRODUCTS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit aims to identify and describe the entire range of materials used in shoe production both for upper and for bottom components (leather, textile, substitutes, rubber, synthetics, non-woven etc.). TOPICS CONTENT Identifying materials uses within footwear industry Recognizing characteristics of materials Determining performance of materials Identifying common faults, problems and surface defects of materials Selecting and testing the materials accordingly with the purpose of the product 1. Identifying/ Classifying footwear materials 2. Performances of materials for footwear - Physical properties - Mechanical properties - Chemical properties - Technological and usability characteristics of materials 3. List of international standards ( ISO) for footwear industry 10

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LESSON 2.2. FOOTWEAR: STRUCTURE AND FUNCTIONS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit presents various types of footwear considering their structure. The footwear components, both for uppers and bottoms, are presented in relations with their role for structuring and achieving the function of the entire footwear product. TOPICS CONTENT Standard footwear types Presenting the components of footwear: uppers (vamp, toe, quarter, counter, tongue, apron, tab, strips, linings, stiffener, toe puff) and bottom (insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, welt, middle sole, sole, heel) Identifying footwear components both for upper and for bottom, their role and recommended materials Recognizing the functions that footwear has to fulfil during its use 1. Footwear components: uppers and bottoms 2. Constructive types 3. Description of the main features and functions of footwear 3.1. Types of footwear (fashion, casual, sport) 3.2. Footwear features (uppers, soles, heels, lining, laces and buckles, etc.) 3.3. Features of footwear related to foot function and structure (size, shape). 12

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LESSON 2.3. LASTS FOR FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY UNIT DESCRIPTOR Transferring the foot size and its general shape into definitive lasts includes variables such as nature and extent of functional demands, foot characteristics, styles and characteristics of the materials. This unit covers the theoretical knowledge regarding various types of lasts used in footwear industry, as well as the selection criteria of a last according to footwear design requirements. TOPICS Transforming the foot measurements into the last shape and dimensions Identifying various types of lasts and their build-up components Measuring and controlling the last Selecting an appropriate existing or commercial last which closely matches the required foot shape and size CONTENT 1. Lasts for footwear industry 2. Classifying the lasts 3. Dimensional characterization of the last 4. Verifying the shape and the size using control patterns 5. Verifying the quality requirements 6. Selecting the last 14

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LESSON 2.4. FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit presents the entire manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing, lasting, soling and finishing. TOPICS CONTENT Identifying the manufacturing process, from pattern cutting through closing, lasting, soling and finishing. 1. Cutting 2. Sewing 3. Lasting 4. Soling 5. Finishing 16

LESSON 2.5. TECHNOLOGICAL ALLOWANCES FOR PATTERN MAKING UNIT DESCRIPTOR There are three main types of allowances for the sectional patterns: lasting allowance, seam allowance and edge allowance The unit presents basics information for establishing these allowances according to the footwear manufacturing technology. Various design effects need special allowances and these can be estimated considering the treatments and materials involved. TOPICS CONTENT Presenting and setting up the allowances for different edge treatments (folded edge, binding edge, laced edge, special effects etc.); Presenting and setting up the allowances for different type of seams Presenting and setting up the lasting allowances accordingly with lasting technology 1. Basics for uppers preparation due with the edge treatment 2. Basics of uppers closing by sewing 3. Basics for shoe lasting technology 17

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PART III- MEASUREMENTS AND TOOLS LESSON 3.1. MEASURING THE FOOT - FOOT ANTHROPOMETRICS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit defines and presents the anthropometrical parameters within the foot and leg. Foot measurements may be undertaken by using basic measuring devices such as ruler and measuring tape (manual techniques) or special equipments such as 3D scanners (computer techniques). TOPICS Marking the anatomical points on foot and leg Measuring the foot and defining anthropometrical parameters Managing and collecting measurements of foot parameters with computer techniques Assigning the relation between main dimensions of the foot (length and girth) and shoe s size CONTENT 1. Anatomical points of the foot with an active role in biomechanics. 2. Anthropometrical parameters of the foot: length, width, girth, height, and angles 3. Variability of the foot dimensions and shape during standing and walking 4. Practice of measuring the foot and leg 4.1 Manual procedure for measuring the foot/leg 4.2 Computer technique for measuring the foot/leg 19

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LESSON 3.2. MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS UNIT DESCRIPTOR To present various measurement systems by connecting foot and last measurements with footwear sizing. TOPICS CONTENT Describing foot, last and footwear measurement sizing Interpreting design brief Analysing and assessing sizing for footwear design Adapting the measurements of foot to shoe design requirements 1. Measurements of the foot transposed into measurements of the last 2. Footwear sizing 2.1. French (Continental) Measurement System 2.2. English Measurement System 2.3. American Measurement System 2.4. Mondopoint System 2.5. Sizing charts and transformation relation between various measurement systems. Measurement and comparison tables 3. The effect of poor-fitting or poorly made shoes 4- Shoe Size Conversion Tables - Adults (Men and Women) Shoe Size Conversion Table - Girls Shoe Sizes - Boys Shoe Sizes - BATA Comparative Chart Table 21

LESSON 3.3. TOOLS FOR PATTERN MAKING UNIT DESCRIPTOR In order to obtain good patterns it is necessary to know and select the essentials tools. This unit demonstrates which these tools are and how they are used for. TOPICS Presenting the tools for pattern making CONTENT B type various pencils Cutting knife Measuring tape School rubber Metal ruler Compass Protractor Copying wheel Scissors Revolving punch plier 22

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PART IV- DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING LESSON 4.1. PRINCIPLES AND ELEMENTS OF DESIGN APPLIED TO FOOTWEAR UNIT DESCRIPTOR In order to create a good product design, knowledge about the theory of elements and principles of design is required. The unit demonstrates how elements of design integrated into principles of designs could be used within the footwear product concept. TOPICS Elements of design applied to footwear Principles of design applied to footwear Examples, presentations and recommendations CONTENT 1. Introduction 2. Elements of product design: line, shape, form and colour 3. Principles of product design: repetition, pattern, gradation, rhythm, radiation, harmony, contrast, dominance, proportion, balance, and unity 4. Examples of brand designs 24

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LESSON 4.2. BASIC STAGES IN PRODUCING FOOTWEAR PATTERNS FROM 3D DESIGN UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit aims present the essentials of footwear pattern making in accordance with the design specification and manufacturing requirements. The student will be introduced with the VTC Shoe pattern making method. This method requires for 3D design to be created first directly on the last and then accurately transferred into a 2D standard design, and finally being transformed into working patterns. TOPICS Defining design lines and features on 3D last Translating designs from 3D to 2D standard forme Drawing patterns to outfit required specifications of the footwear Modifying and adjusting patterns CONTENT 1. VTC Shoe pattern making method 2. Stages in producing footwear patterns 2.1. Completing design specification and selecting the last 2.2. Producing the mean forme 2.3. Drawing the standard design grid 2.4. Drawing the 3D model directly on the last 2.5. Transferring design lines from 3D shell to 2D standard forme 2.6. Obtaining the 2D standard design of the model ( Master Pattern) 2.7. Producing and modifying working patterns 3. Producing footwear patterns for boots and high boots 26

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LESSON 4.3. PRODUCING STANDARD FORME OF THE LAST UNIT DESCRIPTOR The mean forme is the most important pattern in footwear design. If it is not accurate, all the patterns will reproduce the errors within the original mean forme. The unit presents several accurate methods of producing mean forme. TOPICS Identifying the forme-making methods: paper slotted forme, paper taped forme; Transposing the main anatomical points and lines on the last accordingly with their position on foot Obtaining outside and inside forme by flattening the surface of the last 28

CONTENT 1. Introduction 2. Forme-making methods 2.1. Forme-making using paper slotted method; 2.2. Forme-making using paper tape method; 3. Flattening inside and outside formes and making adjustments in order to get the mean forme. 29

LESSON 4.4. PRODUCING DESIGN STANDARD (MASTER PATTERN) UNIT DESCRIPTOR The standard design gives a master pattern that represents the shape and the basic lines of the footwear model, and they are transposed into a 2D drawing. It is very important that the design standard should have position points, and the basic lines should be clearly marked. These points and basic lines are linked with the anatomy and biomechanics of the foot, and have to be in view during all the stages of designing and pattern making process. TOPICS Producing design standard in reference to foot anatomy, last construction/ characteristics and footwear style. CONTENT 1. The link between foot anatomy and basic construction lines. 2. Auxiliary constructions lines 3. The link between construction lines and footwear patterns. 30

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LESSON 4.5. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN S COURT SHOE UNIT DESCRIPTOR The classic court shoe is the most common model of women s footwear. In order to get an accurate pattern for this type of shoe fitting correctly on the last, basic principles of pattern making are to be known as well as the necessary adjustments. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for court shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, toe cap, quarter, counter Obtaining design standards for court shoe Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files 32

CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification 1.2. Designing requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the patterns 2. 3D modelling of the court shoe 3. Producing design standards (master pattern) and sectional patterns 33

LESSON 4.6. PATTERN MAKING FOR MEN S CASUAL SHOE (OXFORD, DERBY) UNIT DESCRIPTOR Designing and producing patterns for classical types of men s shoes, as Oxford and Derby models, are presented in this unit. The Oxford style is characterized by the fact that the vamp section is laid over the quarter sections. The Derby shoe is a lace-up style in which the quarters are laid on the vamp section. TOPICS CONTENT Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for Oxford/Derby shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps Obtaining design standard for Men s Oxford shoe Obtaining design standard for Men s Derby shoe Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification 1.2. Design requirements regarding the shape and specific outlines of the patterns 2. 3D modelling of the Men s shoe 2.1. Oxford shoe 2.2. Derby shoe 3. Producing design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 3.1. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Oxford shoe 3.2. Design standard and sectional patterns for the Derby shoe 34

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LESSON 4.7. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDREN S SHOE UNIT DESCRIPTOR It is to be noted that children s shoe is not a small size of an adult shoe. Special features are required for this category of shoes due to different conditions and features that children s feet have to perform. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for children s shoe Drawing the outline for vamp, cap, quarter, tongue, back straps Obtaining design standard for children s shoe Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Differences in pattern making between children and adults shoes 1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding the shape or specific outlines of the patterns 2. 3D modelling of the children s shoe 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 38

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LESSON 4.8. PATTERN MAKING FOR LOAFERS UNIT DESCRIPTOR A low step-in shoe is called Loafer and it is characterized by the fact that no laces or other systems for setting up on foot are used. Designing this type of shoe requires special attention to the topline of the uppers that has to be according to the usability of the footwear. Elastic tape could be used and the patterns for uppers have to be designed taking the presence of this functional element into consideration. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns Obtaining design standard for boots Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Selecting the last to meet to meet the design specification 1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding to shape or to specific outlines of the patterns 2. 3D modelling of the Loafers 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 42

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LESSON 4.9. PATTERN MAKING FOR TRAINER/ SPORT SHOE UNIT DESCRIPTOR The constructive characteristics of this type of leisure/sport footwear lie in the uppers style as being the same for men, women and children. The uppers can be made from different types or combination of materials. They could have following patterns: split toe cap, outside counter, back tab facing, front facing and side flash (side stripe). TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for trainer/sport shoe Drawing the outline of sectional patterns Obtaining design standard for trainer/sport shoe Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Selecting the last to meet the design specification 1.2. Identifying the design requirements regarding shape or specific outlines of the patterns 2. 3D modelling of the trainer/sport shoe 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 44

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LESSON 4.10. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMENS SANDALS UNIT DESCRIPTOR The most common method for sandal s pattern making is by drawing the design lines and the sectional patterns directly on last. The 3D model is translated into the 2D standard forme and the working patterns are obtained. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for sandals Drawing the outline of sectional patterns Obtaining design standard for sandals Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions 2. 3D Modelling of the women s sandals 3. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 46

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LESSON 4.11. PATTERN MAKING FOR CHILDREN S BOOTS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a boot. For designing boots or high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the reference system. A standard design (master pattern) is constructed based on the same principles as described in lesson 4.4. The pattern making for boots is based both on the mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns Obtaining design standard for boots Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Differences in pattern making of shoes and boots 1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions 2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 48

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LESSON 4.12. PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN HIGH BOOTS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This type of footwear should be produced on a last specially designed for a high boot. For designing high boots, we will use the mean forme of the last registered in the reference system. The pattern making for high boots is based both on the mean forme and on a geometrical construction, where some specific dimensions about heights and girths measured on leg should be taken from sizing tables. TOPICS Presenting principles and concepts of pattern making for high boots Drawing the outline of sectional patterns Obtaining design standard for high boots Making and modifying the working patterns Maintaining accurate records, documents, sketches, samples, drawings sheets, working progress files CONTENT 1. Preparatory stage for pattern making 1.1. Differences in pattern making between shoes and high boots 1.2. Identifying design requirements regarding shape and dimensions 2. Producing the design standard (master pattern) and sectional patterns 50

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LESSON 4.13. PRODUCING LINING PATTERNS UNIT DESCRIPTOR This unit presents different ways of making patterns of lining for classic types of footwear (Court shoe, Derby shoe, Oxford shoe). At the base of lining pattern making lies the upper s standard design having only the lasting allowance, without folding or sewing allowances. There are two types: joined linings by seam and free linings. Also, the linings could be from leather or from fabrics. TOPICS Presenting the role of lining Producing lining patterns for Court shoe, and for Derby/ Oxford shoe CONTENT 1. What is the role of lining? 2. Lining pattern making for men s Derby/ Oxford shoe 3. Lining pattern making for women s Court shoe 52

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LESSON 4.14. ELEMENTS FOR DESIGNING BOTTOM COMPONENTS UNIT DESCRIPTOR The basic construction grid for designing bottom components is presented in this unit. Practical exercises demonstrate the principles for designing main components of the bottom. TOPICS How to construct a grid for designing bottom components Designing bottom components: insole, rigid insole backer, shank, bottom filling, insole cover, sole. CONTENT 1. Basic construction grid for designing bottom components 2. Insole 3. Rigid insole backer 4. Shank 5. Bottom filling 6. Insole cover 7. Sole 54

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